1989 FORD FIESTA engine

necessary for reassembly of the engine are at
hand. In addition to all normal tools and
materials, jointing and thread locking
compound will be needed during engine
reassembly. For general-purpose applications,
it is recommended that Loctite 275 setting
sealer or Hylomar PL32M non-setting sealer
be used for joints where required, and
Loctite 270 for stud and bolt thread-locking.
For specific applications on Zetec engines,
Hylosil 102 for the cylinder block/crankcase-
to-sump/oil pump/oil seal carrier joints, and
Loctite 518 for the camshaft right-hand
bearing caps should be used. These are
recommended by, and obtained from, Ford
dealers. In all other cases, provided the
relevant mating surfaces are clean and flat,
new gaskets will be sufficient to ensure joints
are oil-tight. Do notuse any kind of silicone-
based sealant on any part of the fuel system or
inlet manifold, and neveruse exhaust sealants
upstream of the catalytic converter.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly can be carried out in the
following order (as applicable).
a) Engine ventilation cap (CVH and PTE engines).
b) Tappets and camshaft (HCS engines).
c) Crankshaft and main bearings.
d) Pistons and connecting rods.
e) Oil pump.
f) Sump.
g) Flywheel/driveplate.
h) Cylinder head.
i) Timing sprockets and chain/belt.
j) Engine external components.
3 Ensure that everything is clean prior to
reassembly. As mentioned previously, dirt and
metal particles can quickly destroy bearings
and result in major engine damage. Use clean
engine oil to lubricate during reassembly.
16 Piston rings - refitting
2
1Before installing new piston rings, check
the end gaps. Lay out each piston set with a
piston/connecting rod assembly, and keep them together as a matched set from now on.
2
Insert the top compression ring into the first
cylinder, and square it up with the cylinder
walls by pushing it in with the top of the
piston. The ring should be near the bottom of
the cylinder, at the lower limit of ring travel.
3 To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges
between the ends of the ring, until a gauge
equal to the gap width is found. The feeler
gauge should slide between the ring ends
with a slight amount of drag. Compare the
measurement to the value given in the
Specifications in this Chapter; if the gap is
larger or smaller than specified, double-check to make sure you have the correct rings
before proceeding. If you are assessing the
condition of used rings, have the cylinder
bores checked and measured by a Ford
dealer or similar engine reconditioning
specialist, so that you can be sure of exactly
which component is worn, and seek advice as
to the best course of action to take.
4 If the end gap is still too small, it must be
opened up by careful filing of the ring ends
using a fine file. If it is too large, this is not as
serious, unless the specified limit is exceeded,
in which case very careful checking is
required of the dimensions of all components,
as well as of the new parts.
5 Repeat the procedure for each ring that will
be installed in the first cylinder, and for each
ring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to
keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
6 Refit the piston rings as follows. Where the
original rings are being refitted, use the marks
or notes made on removal, to ensure that
each ring is refitted to its original groove and
the same way up. New rings generally have
their top surfaces identified by markings
(often an indication of size, such as “STD”, or
the word “TOP”) - the rings must be fitted with
such markings uppermost (see illustration) .
Note: Always follow the instructions printed
on the ring package or box - different
manufacturers may require different
approaches. Do not mix up the top and
second compression rings, as they usually
have different cross-sections.
7 The oil control ring (lowest one on the
piston) is usually installed first. It is composed
of three separate elements. Slip the
spacer/expander into the groove. If an
anti- rotation tang is used, make sure it is
inserted into the drilled hole in the ring groove.
Next, install the lower side rail. Don’t use a
piston ring installation tool on the oil ring side
rails, as they may be damaged. Instead, place
one end of the side rail into the groove
between the spacer/expander and the ring
land, hold it firmly in place, and slide a finger
around the piston while pushing the rail into
the groove. Next, install the upper side rail in
the same manner.
8 After the three oil ring components have
been installed, check that both the upper and
lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the
ring groove.
9 The second compression (middle) ring is installed next, followed by the top
compression ring - ensure their marks are
uppermost, and be careful not to confuse
them. Don’t expand either ring any more than
necessary to slide it over the top of the piston.
10
On HCS engines, when all of the rings are
fitted to each piston, arrange them so that the
gaps are positioned as described in the
Specifications at the start of this Chapter.
11 On the CVH and PTE engines, when all of
the rings are fitted to each piston, arrange
them so that the gaps are spaced at 120º
intervals, with no gaps positioned above the
gudgeon pin hole.
12 On Zetec engines, when all the rings are
fitted to each piston, space the ring gaps
(including the elements of the oil control ring)
uniformly around the piston at 120º intervals.
17 Crankshaft - refitting and
main bearing running
clearance check
4
1 It is assumed at this point that the cylinder
block/crankcase and crankshaft have been
cleaned, inspected and repaired or
reconditioned as necessary. Position the
engine upside-down.
2 Remove the main bearing cap bolts, and lift
out the caps. Lay the caps out in the proper
order, to ensure correct installation.
3 If they’re still in place, remove the old
bearing shells from the block and the main
bearing caps. Wipe the bearing recesses of
the block and caps with a clean, lint-free
cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean!
Main bearing running clearance
check
HCS engines
4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
bearing shells. Insert the respective upper
shells (dry) into position in the crankcase.
Note that the upper shells have grooves in
them (the lower shells are plain, and have a
wider location lug). Where the old main
bearings are being refitted, ensure that they
are located in their original positions. Make
sure that the tab on each bearing shell fits into
the notch in the block or cap.
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into
place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing
faces. No lubrication should be used at
this time.
5 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers into
position in the crankcase, so that their oil
grooves are facing outwards (away from the
central web) (see illustration) .
CVH and PTE engines
6Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
bearing shells. Insert the respective upper
shells (dry) into position in the crankcase.
Note that with the exception of the front main
bearing, the upper shells have grooves in
2D•22 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
16.6 Look for etched markings (“STD” -
indicating a standard-sized ring - shown
here) identifying piston ring top surface
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them (the lower half bearings are plain). The
upper and lower front shells are narrower in
section, and both have an oil groove in them.
Where the old main bearings are being
refitted, ensure that they are located in their
original positions (see illustration). Make sure
that the tab on each bearing shell fits into the
notch in the block or cap.
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into
place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing
faces. No lubrication should be used at
this time.
7 Relocate the crankcase ventilation cap and
its retaining spring into position in the
crankcase (see illustration) .
8 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers into
position in the crankcase so that their oil
grooves are facing outwards (away from the
central web).
Zetec engines
9 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
new main bearing shells. Fit the shells with an
oil groove in each main bearing location in the
block; note the thrustwashers integral with the
No 3 (centre) main bearing upper shell. Fit the
other shell from each bearing set in the
corresponding main bearing cap. Make sure
the tab on each bearing shell fits into the
notch in the block or cap. Also, the oil holes in the block must line up with the oil holes in the
bearing shell
(see illustration) .
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into
place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing
faces. No lubrication should be used at
this time.
All engines
10 Clean the bearing surfaces of the shells in
the block, and the crankshaft main bearing
journals with a clean, lint-free cloth. Check or
clean the oil holes in the crankshaft, as any
dirt here can go only one way - straight
through the new bearings.
11 Once you’re certain the crankshaft is
clean, carefully lay it in position in the main
bearings. Trim several pieces of the
appropriate-size Plastigauge (they must be
slightly shorter than the width of the main
bearings), and place one piece on each
crankshaft main bearing journal, parallel with
the crankshaft centre-line (see illustration).
12 Clean the bearing surfaces of the cap
shells, and install the caps in their respective
positions (don’t mix them up) with the arrows
pointing to the timing chain/belt end of the
engine. Don’t disturb the Plastigauge.
13 Working on one cap at a time, from the
centre main bearing outwards (and ensuring
that each cap is tightened down squarely and
evenly onto the block), tighten the main
bearing cap bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. Don’t rotate the crankshaft at
any time during this operation!
14
Remove the bolts, and carefully lift off the
main bearing caps. Keep them in order. Don’t
disturb the Plastigauge or rotate the
crankshaft. If any of the main bearing caps are
difficult to remove, tap them gently from
side-to-side with a soft-faced mallet to loosen
them.
15 Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigauge on each journal with the scale
printed on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain
the main bearing running clearance (see
illustration) . Check the Specifications to
make sure that the clearance is correct.
16 If the clearance is not as specified, seek
the advice of a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft
journals are in good condition, it may be
possible simply to renew the shells to achieve
the correct clearance. If this is not possible,
the crankshaft must be reground by a
specialist who can supply the necessary
undersized shells. First though, make sure
that no dirt or oil was between the bearing
shells and the caps or block when the
clearance was measured. If the Plastigauge is
noticeably wider at one end than the other,
the journal may be tapered.
17 Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigauge material off the main bearing
journals and the bearing surfaces. Be very
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•23
17.7 Fit the crankcase ventilation cap and its retaining spring17.6 Fit the bearing shells to the mainbearing housings in the crankcase
17.15 Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigauge to the scale on the envelope to determine the main bearing running
clearance17.11 Lay the Plastigauge strips (arrowed)on the main bearing journals, parallel to the crankshaft centre-line17.9 Tab on each bearing shell must
engage with notch in block or cap, and oil
holes in upper shells must align with block
oilways
2D
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careful not to scratch the bearing - use your
fingernail or the edge of a credit card.
Final crankshaft refitting
18Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine. Clean the bearing surfaces of the
shells in the block, then apply a thin, uniform
layer of clean molybdenum disulphide- based
grease, engine assembly lubricant, or clean
engine oil to each surface. Coat the
thrustwasher surfaces as well.
19 Lubricate the crankshaft oil seal journals
with molybdenum disulphide-based grease,
engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil.
20 Make sure the crankshaft journals are
clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in
the block (see illustration) . Clean the bearing
surfaces of the shells in the caps, then
lubricate them. Install the caps in their
respective positions, with the arrows pointing
to the timing belt/chain end of the engine.
21 Working on one cap at a time, from the
centre main bearing outwards (and ensuring
that each cap is tightened down squarely and
evenly onto the block), tighten the main
bearing cap bolts to the specified torque
wrench setting.
22 Rotate the crankshaft a number of times
by hand, to check for any obvious binding.
23 Check the crankshaft endfloat (see Sec-
tion 12). It should be correct if the crankshaft
thrust faces aren’t worn or damaged.
24 Refit the crankshaft left-hand oil seal
carrier, and install a new seal (see Part A, B
or C of this Chapter according to engine type).
18 Piston/connecting rod
assemblies - refitting and big-end
bearing running clearance check
4
Note: On HCS engines, new big-end bearing
cap retaining bolts will be required for
reassembly.
1 Before refitting the piston/connecting rod
assemblies, the cylinder bores must be
perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder
must be chamfered, and the crankshaft must
be in place.
2 Remove the big-end bearing cap from No 1
cylinder connecting rod (refer to the marks
noted or made on removal). Remove the
original bearing shells, and wipe the bearing
recesses of the connecting rod and cap with a
clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept
spotlessly-clean!
Big-end bearing running
clearance check
3 Clean the back of the new upper bearing
shell, fit it to the connecting rod, then fit the
other shell of the bearing set to the big-end
bearing cap. Make sure that the tab on each
shell fits into the notch in the rod or cap
recess (see illustration) .
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into
place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing
face. Don’t lubricate the bearing at this
time.
4 It’s critically important that all mating
surfaces of the bearing components are
perfectly clean and oil-free when they’re
assembled.
5 Position the piston ring gaps as described
in Section 16, lubricate the piston and rings
with clean engine oil, and attach a piston ring
compressor to the piston. Leave the skirt
protruding about a quarter-inch, to guide the
piston into the cylinder bore. The rings must
be compressed until they’re flush with the
piston.
6 Rotate the crankshaft until No 1 crankpin
(big-end) journal is at BDC (Bottom Dead
Centre), and apply a coat of engine oil to the
cylinder walls.
7 Arrange the No 1 piston/connecting rod
assembly so that the arrow on the piston crown points to the timing belt/chain end of
the engine. Gently insert the assembly into the
No 1 cylinder bore, and rest the bottom edge
of the ring compressor on the engine block.
8
Tap the top edge of the ring compressor to
make sure it’s contacting the block around its
entire circumference.
9 Gently tap on the top of the piston with the
end of a wooden hammer handle (see
illustration) , while guiding the connecting
rod’s big-end onto the crankpin. The piston
rings may try to pop out of the ring
compressor just before entering the cylinder
bore, so keep some pressure on the ring
compressor. Work slowly, and if any
resistance is felt as the piston enters the
cylinder, stop immediately. Find out what’s
binding, and fix it before proceeding. Do not,
for any reason, force the piston into the
cylinder - you might break a ring and/or the
piston.
10 To check the big-end bearing running
clearance, cut a piece of the appropriate-size
Plastigauge slightly shorter than the width of
the connecting rod bearing, and lay it in place
on the No 1 crankpin (big-end) journal, parallel
with the crankshaft centre-line (see
illustration 17.11).
11 Clean the connecting rod-to-cap mating
surfaces, and refit the big-end bearing cap.
Tighten the cap bolts evenly - on the HCS and
Zetec engines, first use a torque wrench to
tighten the bolts to the Stage 1 torque setting,
then use an ordinary socket extension bar and
an angle gauge to tighten the bolts further
through the Stage 2 angle (see illustration).
On the CVH and PTE engines, tighten the
bolts progressively to the specified torque;
further angle-tightening is not required on
these engines. Use a thin-wall socket, to
avoid erroneous torque readings that can
result if the socket is wedged between the
cap and nut. If the socket tends to wedge
itself between the nut and the cap, lift up on it
slightly until it no longer contacts the cap.
Don’t rotate the crankshaft at any time during
this operation!
12 Unscrew the bolts and detach the cap,
being very careful not to disturb the
Plastigauge.
13 Compare the width of the crushed
2D•24 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
18.11 Angle-tightening the big-end bolts
using the correct tool18.9 The piston can be driven gently into
the cylinder bore with the end of a wooden
or plastic hammer handle18.3 Tab on each big-end bearing shell
must engage with notch in connecting rod
or cap
17.20 Refit the crankshaft after checkingbearing clearances
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Plastigauge to the scale printed on the
Plastigauge envelope, to obtain the running
clearance (see illustration 17.15) . Compare it
to the Specifications, to make sure the
clearance is correct.
14 If the clearance is not as specified, seek
the advice of a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft
journals are in good condition it may be
possible simply to renew the shells to achieve
the correct clearance. If this is not possible,
the crankshaft must be reground by a
specialist, who can also supply the necessary
undersized shells. First though, make sure
that no dirt or oil was trapped between the
bearing shells and the connecting rod or cap
when the clearance was measured. Also,
recheck the crankpin diameter. If the
Plastigauge was wider at one end than the
other, the crankpin journal may be tapered.
15 Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigauge material off the journal and the
bearing surface. Be very careful not to scratch
the bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of a credit card.
Final piston/connecting rod
refitting
16 Make sure the bearing surfaces are
perfectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of
clean molybdenum disulphide-based grease,
engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil,
to both of them. You’ll have to push the piston
into the cylinder to expose the bearing surface
of the shell in the connecting rod.
17 Slide the connecting rod back into place
on the crankpin (big-end) journal, refit the big-
end bearing cap, and then tighten the bolts as
described above.
18 Repeat the entire procedure for the
remaining piston/connecting rod assemblies.
19 The important points to remember are:
a) Keep the backs of the bearing shells and the recesses of the connecting rods and
caps perfectly clean when assembling
them.
b) Make sure you have the correct
piston/rod assembly for each cylinder -
use the etched cylinder numbers to
identify the front-facing side of both the
rod and its cap.
c) The arrow on the piston crown must face the timing belt/chain end of the engine.
d) Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean
engine oil.
e) Lubricate the bearing surfaces when refitting the big-end bearing caps after the
running clearance has been checked. 20
After all the piston/connecting rod
assemblies have been properly installed,
rotate the crankshaft a number of times by
hand, to check for any obvious binding.
21 On HCS engines, if the oil pick-up pipe
and strainer was removed, this is a good time
to refit it. First clean the joint area, then coat
the area indicated with the specified activator
(available from Ford dealers) (see
illustration) . Wait for a period of ten minutes,
then smear the shaded area with the specified
adhesive and immediately press the inlet pipe
into position in the crankcase.
19 Engine - initial start-up after
overhaul
1
1 With the engine refitted in the vehicle,
double-check the engine oil and coolant
levels. Make a final check that everything has
been reconnected, and that there are no tools
or rags left in the engine compartment.
2 With the spark plugs removed and the
ignition system disabled by unplugging the
ignition coil’s electrical connector, remove the
fuel pump fuse (fuel injection engines) to
disconnect the fuel pump (see Chapter 12).
Turn the engine on the starter until the oil
pressure warning light goes out.
3 Refit the spark plugs, and connect all the
spark plug (HT) leads (Chapter 1). Reconnect
the ignition coil. On fuel injection engines, refit the fuel pump fuse, switch on the ignition and
listen for the fuel pump; it will run for a little
longer than usual, due to the lack of pressure
in the system.
4
Start the engine, noting that this also may
take a little longer than usual, due to the fuel
system components being empty.
5 While the engine is idling, check for fuel,
coolant and oil leaks. Don’t be alarmed if
there are some odd smells and smoke from
parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits.
If the hydraulic tappets (where applicable)
have been disturbed, some valve gear noise
may be heard at first; this should disappear as
the oil circulates fully around the engine, and
normal pressure is restored in the tappets.
6 Keep the engine idling until hot water is felt
circulating through the top hose, check that it
idles reasonably smoothly and at the usual
speed, then switch it off.
7 After a few minutes, recheck the oil and
coolant levels, and top-up as necessary
(Chapter 1).
8 If they were tightened as described, there is
no need to re-tighten the cylinder head bolts
once the engine has first run after reassembly
- in fact, Ford state that the bolts must notbe
re-tightened.
9 If new components such as pistons, rings
or crankshaft bearings have been fitted, the
engine must be run-in for the first 500 miles
(800 km). Do not operate the engine at full-
throttle, or allow it to labour in any gear during
this period. It is recommended that the oil and
filter be changed at the end of this period.
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•25
18.21 Oil inlet pipe refitting details on the HCS engine
A Area of sealant application - dimensions in mm
B Edge must be parallel with engine longitudinal axis
2D
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2D•26 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Notes
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3
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Coolant
Mixture type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Cooling system capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
See Chapter 1
System pressure
Pressure test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 1.2 bars - should hold this pressure for at least 10 seconds
Expansion tank filler cap
Pressure rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.4 bars approximately - see cap for actual value
Thermostat
Starts to open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . 85ºC to 89ºC
Coolant temperature sensor
Resistance:At 0ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 to 102 kilohms
At 20ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 kilohms
At 100ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 to 2.5 kilohms
At 120ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.4 kilohms
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Antifreeze - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly Checks”
Cooling system - draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system - filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system - flushing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system electrical switches and sensors - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 6
Cooling system hoses - disconnection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Heater/ventilation components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator and expansion tank - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 7
Radiator electric cooling fan assembly - testing, removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 5
Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1
Water pump (CVH and PTE engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . 9
Water pump (HCS engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Water pump (Zetec engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
3•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Thermostat housing to cylinder head: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 9 7
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
Water outlet to thermostat housing (Zetec engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
Water pump pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 107.5
Water pump retaining bolts: HCS, CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 1813
Coolant temperature gauge sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4
Coolant temperature sensor: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 2317
CVH engines: 1.4 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 1914
1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 1511
PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1511
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 1511
Radiator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 20 to 27 15 to 20
Radiator cooling fan shroud retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 to 5 2 to 4
Radiator cooling fan motor to shroud nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
Automatic transmission fluid cooling pipe connections to radiator . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information and
precautions
Engine cooling system
The cooling system is of the pressurised
type consisting of a belt-driven pump,
aluminium crossflow radiator, expansion tank,
electric cooling fan and a thermostat. The
system functions as follows. Cold coolant in
the bottom of the radiator passes through the
bottom hose to the water pump, where it is
pumped around the cylinder block and head
passages. After cooling the cylinder bores,
combustion surfaces and valve seats, the
coolant reaches the underside of the
thermostat, which is initially closed. The
coolant passes through the heater and
inlet manifold and is returned to the water
pump. When the engine is cold, the coolant
circulates through the cylinder block, cylinder
head, heater and inlet manifold. When the
coolant reaches a predetermined tempera-
ture, the thermostat opens, and the coolant
then passes through the top hose to
the radiator. As the coolant circulates
through the radiator, it is cooled by the inrush
of air when the car is in forward motion.
Airflow is supplemented by the action of the
electric cooling fan when necessary. Upon
reaching the bottom of the radiator, the
coolant is now cooled, and the cycle is
repeated. When the engine is at normal operating
temperature, the coolant expands, and some
of it is displaced into the expansion tank. This
coolant collects in the tank, and is returned to
the radiator when the system cools.
The electric cooling fan, mounted behind
the radiator, is controlled by a thermostatic switch. At a predetermined coolant
temperature, the switch contacts close, thus
actuating the fan.
Heating/ventilation system
The heating system consists of a blower fan
and heater matrix (radiator) located in the
heater unit, with hoses connecting the heater
matrix to the engine cooling system. Hot
engine coolant is circulated through the
heater matrix. Air is forced through the matrix
by the three-speed fan, dispersing the heat
into the vehicle interior. Fresh air enters the
vehicle through the grille slats between the
windscreen and the rear edge of the bonnet,
and passes through to the heater casing.
Depending on the position of the heater slide
controls, which actuate cable-controlled flap
valves within the heater casing, the air is
distributed, either heated or unheated, via the
ducting to outlet vents. The main outlet vents
in the facia are adjustable. The airflow passes
through the passenger compartment to exit at
the rear of the vehicle.
Precautions
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank filler
cap, or to disturb any part of the
cooling system, while it or the
engine is hot, as there is a very great risk
of scalding. If the expansion tank filler cap
must be removed before the engine and
radiator have fully cooled down (even
though this is not recommended) the
pressure in the cooling system must first
be released. Cover the cap with a thick
layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly
unscrew the filler cap until a hissing sound
can be heard. When the hissing has
stopped, showing that pressure is
released, slowly unscrew the filler cap
further until it can be removed; if more
hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap
completely. At all times, keep well away
from the filler opening.
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin, or with the painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off
spills immediately with plenty of water.
Never leave antifreeze lying around in an
open container, or in a puddle in the
driveway or on the garage floor. Children
and pets are attracted by its sweet smell,
but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested. Warning: If the engine is hot, the
electric cooling fan may start
rotating even if the engine is not
running, so be careful to keep
hands, hair and loose clothing well clear
when working in the engine compartment.
2 Antifreeze -
general information
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before proceeding. The cooling system should be filled with a
water/ethylene glycol-based antifreeze
solution, of a strength which will prevent
freezing down to at least -25ºC, or lower if the
local climate requires it. Antifreeze also
provides protection against corrosion, and
increases the coolant boiling point. The cooling system should be maintained
according to the schedule described in
Chapter 1. If antifreeze is used that is not to
Ford’s specification, old or contaminated
coolant mixtures are likely to cause damage,
and encourage the formation of corrosion and
scale in the system. Use distilled water with the
antifreeze, if available - if not, be sure to use
only soft water. Clean rainwater is suitable.
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Before adding antifreeze, check all hoses
and hose connections, because antifreeze
tends to leak through very small openings.
Engines don’t normally consume coolant, so if
the level falls regularly, find the cause and
correct it. The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water
which you should use depends on the relative
weather conditions. The mixture should
contain at least 40% antifreeze, but not more
than 70%. Consult the mixture ratio chart on
the antifreeze container before adding
coolant. Hydrometers are available at most
automotive accessory shops to test the
coolant. Use only good-quality ethylene-
glycol-based antifreeze which meets the
vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.
3 Cooling system hoses -
disconnection and renewal
1
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
1 If the checks described in Chapter 1 reveal
a faulty hose, it must be renewed as follows.
2 First drain the cooling system (see Chap-
ter 1); if the antifreeze is not due for renewal,
the drained coolant may be re-used, if it is
collected in a clean container.
3 To disconnect any hose, use a pair of pliers
to release the spring clamps (or a screwdriver
to slacken screw-type clamps), then move
them along the hose clear of the union.
Carefully work the hose off its stubs. The
hoses can be removed with relative ease
when new - on an older car, they may have
stuck.
4 If a hose proves stubborn, try to release it
by rotating it on its unions before attempting
to work it off. Gently prise the end of the hose
with a blunt instrument (such as a flat-bladed
screwdriver), but do not apply too much force,
and take care not to damage the pipe stubs or
hoses. Note in particular that the radiator hose
unions are fragile; do not use excessive force
when attempting to remove the hoses.
5 When refitting a hose, first slide the clamps
onto the hose, then work the hose onto its
unions. 6
Work each hose end fully onto its union,
then check that the hose is settled correctly
and is properly routed. Slide each clip along
the hose until it is behind the union flared end,
before tightening it securely.
7 Refill the system with coolant (see Chap-
ter 1).
8 Check carefully for leaks as soon as
possible after disturbing any part of the
cooling system.
4 Thermostat -
removal, testing and refitting
1
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
3 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and
remove the air cleaner or air inlet hoses,
according to engine type as necessary, to
gain access to the thermostat housing.
HCS, CVH and PTE engines
4 Loosen the clips, and disconnect the
radiator top hose, expansion tank hose and,
where applicable, the heater hose from the
thermostat housing (see illustrations).5
Disconnect the thermostatic switch wire
multi-plug from the thermostat housing.
6 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove
the thermostat housing (see illustration).
7 Remove the gasket from the mating face of
the thermostat housing, then using suitable
pliers, compress the thermostat retaining clip
(where applicable) and remove it from the
housing. Extract the thermostat from
the housing (noting its direction of fitting) and
where applicable, remove the O-ring seal (see
illustrations) .
Zetec engines
8Disconnect the expansion tank hose and
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3
4.4b Disconnecting the expansion tank
top hose from the thermostat housing
(HCS engine). Radiator cooling fan thermal switch (arrowed)4.4a Thermostat housing hose
attachments on the CVH engine
4.7b Exploded view of thermostat and housing (CVH and PTE engines)
A Sealing ring C Retaining clip
B Thermostat
4.7a Removing the gasket and thermostat from an HCS engine4.6 Removing the thermostat housingfrom a CVH engine
3
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
If all else fails, cut the hose
with a sharp knife, then slit
it so that it can be peeled off
in two pieces. Although this
may prove expensive if the hose is
otherwise undamaged, it is preferable
to buying a new radiator.
If the hose is stiff, use a little
soapy water as a lubricant,
or soften the hose by
soaking it in hot water. Do
not use oil or grease, which may attack
the rubber.
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