1985 FORD GRANADA height

The electrical system is a 12 volt, negative
earth type. Electricity is generated by an
alternator, belt-driven from the crankshaft pulley.
A lead-acid battery provides a reserve of power
for starting and when the demands of the system
temporarily exceed the alternator output.
The battery negative terminal is connected
to “earth” - vehicle metal - and most electrical
system components are wired so that they
only receive a positive feed, the current
returning via vehicle metal. This means that
the component mounting forms part of the
circuit. Loose or corroded mountings can
therefore cause apparent electrical faults.
Many semiconductor devices are used in
the electrical system, both in the “black
boxes” which control vehicle functions and in
other components. Semiconductors are very
sensitive to excessive (or wrong polarity)
voltage, and to extremes of heat. Observe the
appropriate precautions to avoid damage.
Although some repair procedures are given
in this Chapter, sometimes renewal of a well-
used item will prove more satisfactory. The
reader whose interests extend beyond
component renewal should obtain a copy of
the “Automobile Electrical Manual”, available
from the publishers of this book.
Before starting work on the electrical
system, read the precautions listed in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of the manual.
Note:Refer to the precautions given in “Safety
first!” and in Section 1 of this Chapter before
starting work. The following tests relate to testing
of the main electrical circuits, and should not be
used to test delicate electronic circuits (such as
anti-lock braking systems), particularly where an
electronic control unit (ECU) is involved.
General
1A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers
related to that component, and the wiring and
connectors which link the component to both
the battery and the chassis. To help to
pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit,
wiring diagrams are included at the end of this
Chapter.
2Before attempting to diagnose an electrical
fault, first study the appropriate wiring
diagram, to obtain a more complete
understanding of the components included in
the particular circuit concerned. The possible
sources of a fault can be narrowed down by
noting whether other components related to
the circuit are operating properly. If several
components or circuits fail at one time, the
problem is likely to be related to a shared fuse
or earth connection.
3Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a faulty earth connection, a
blown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faulty
relay. Visually inspect the condition of all
fuses, wires and connections in a problem
circuit before testing the components. Use the
wiring diagrams to determine which terminal
connections will need to be checked in order
to pinpoint the trouble-spot.
4The basic tools required for electrical fault-
finding include: a circuit tester or voltmeter (a
12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also
be used for certain tests), a self-powered test
light (sometimes known as a continuity tester),
an ohmmeter (to measure resistance), a
battery and set of test leads, and a jumper
wire, preferably with a circuit breaker or fuse
incorporated, which can be used to bypass
suspect wires or electrical components.
Before attempting to locate a problem with
test instruments, use the wiring diagram to
determine where to make the connections.
5To find the source of an intermittent wiring
fault (usually due to a poor or dirty connection,
or damaged wiring insulation), an integrity testcan be performed on the wiring, which
involves moving the wiring by hand, to see if
the fault occurs as the wiring is moved. It
should be possible to narrow down the source
of the fault to a particular section of wiring.
This method of testing can be used in
conjunction with any of the tests described in
the following sub-Sections.
6Apart from problems due to poor
connections, two basic types of fault can
occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit or
short-circuit.
7Open-circuit faults are caused by a break
somewhere in the circuit, which prevents
current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will
prevent a component from working, but will
not cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.
8Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short”
somewhere in the circuit, which allows the
current flowing in the circuit to “escape” along
an alternative route, usually to earth. Short-
circuit faults are normally caused by a
breakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a
feed wire to touch either another wire, or an
earthed component such as the bodyshell. A
short-circuit fault will normally cause the
relevant circuit fuse to blow. Note: A short-
circuit that occurs in the wiring between a
circuit’s battery supply and its fuse will not
cause the fuse in that particular circuit to blow.
This part of the circuit is unprotected - bear
this in mind when fault-finding on the vehicle’s
electrical system.
Finding an open-circuit
9To check for an open-circuit, connect one
lead of a circuit tester or voltmeter to either the
negative battery terminal or a known good earth.
10Connect the other lead to a connector in
the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to
the battery or fuse.
11Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
12If voltage is present (indicated either by
the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,
as applicable), this means that the section of
2Electrical fault-finding - general
information
1General information
Body electrical system 13•3
13
Other relays and modules (continued)
IdentificationFunction
Behind facia (passenger side) (continued):
M4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Heated windscreen (timer)
M5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Air conditioning cooling fan
M6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS pump relay
M7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS main relay
M8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS control unit
M9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Ride height control
Below instrument panel (driver’s side):
N1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Bulb failure warning unit
Below facia (passenger side):
P1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS module
P2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Fuel-injection system module
Behind facia (passenger side):
R1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Speed control system module
R2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Auxiliary warning system module
R3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Rear audio console module
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Alternator adjusting strap:
To steering pump bracket (SOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2616 to 19
To front cover (V6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
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Estate
19This procedure is the same as described
above for the Saloon models noting that it is
necessary to remove the luggage
compartment side trim panel to gain access to
the light cluster retaining nuts.
1It is recommended that beam adjustment be
carried out by a Ford garage using optical
alignment equipment. In an emergency,
however, the following procedure will produce
acceptable results.
2The vehicle should be normally laden and the
tyre pressures must be correct. Park the vehicle
on level ground, approximately 10 metres (33
feet) in front of a flat wall or garage door.
3Draw a vertical line on the wall or door
corresponding to the centre-line of the vehicle.
(The position of this line can be determined by
marking the centres of the windscreen and
rear window with crayon, then viewing the wall
or door from the rear of the vehicle.)
4With the centre-line established, construct
the other lines shown (see illustration).
5Switch the headlights on to dipped beam.
Cover one headlight with cloth and adjust the
other, using the two screws at the rear of the
unit, to bring the centre of the beam to the
point C on the appropriate side of the
alignment chart (see illustration).6Transfer the cloth to theadjusted headlight,
and repeat the adjustment on the other headlight.
7Have the alignment checked professionally
at the first opportunity.
1Always switch the light off, or disconnect the
battery negative lead, before changing a bulb.
Courtesy light
2Carefully prise the light unit from its
location. If reading (spot) lights are fitted, prise
from the middle; if not, prise from one end
(seeillustration).
3Renew the bulb(s), detaching the reflector or
contact plate as necessary.
4Reassemble the light unit and press it home.
Vanity mirror light
5Carefully prise the frame off the mirror to
expose the bulbs(see illustration).
6Unclip the blown bulb(s) and press in the
new ones. Make sure that the spring contacts
which secure the bulb are clean and tight;
bend them slightly to improve their tension if
necessary.
7Check for correct operation, then snap the
mirror frame home.
Door lights
8The door open warning light can be
removed from the edge of the door by prisingthe lens from the inside edge (see
illustration).
9Renew the bulb and press the lens home.
10The kerb illumination light is renewed in a
similar way. Prise out the lens using the slot
provided, renew the bulb and refit the lens
(seeillustration).
6Interior lights - bulb renewal
5Headlight beam alignment
Body electrical system 13•7
13
5.5 Headlight beam adjustment screws
(arrowed)
6.2 Courtesy light bulb renewal
Prise at points arrowed
6.8 “Door open” light bulb renewal6.5 Mirror light bulb renewal
Prise frame at point arrowed
5.4 Headlight beam alignment
chart
A Distance between headlamp
centres
B Light-dark boundary
C Beam centre dipped
D Dipped beam pattern
H Height from ground to centre of
headlamps
X = 120 mm (4.7 in)
6.10 Kerb illumination light bulb renewal
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13•14Body electrical system
16.9 Typical arrangement of relays, control units and module
LHD shown - RHD is mirror image
A Taxi equipment
B Bulb failure module
C EEC IV module
D ABS module
E Rear headphone relay
F Auxiliary warning system control unit
G Speed control system module
H Anti-theft alarm module
I Warning display lighting
K Relay bank
1 Inlet manifold heater relay (carburettor)
2 Fuel pump relay (fuel-injection)
3 Power hold relay (carburettor)
4 Injector relay (fuel-injection)
5 Heated windscreen relay
6 Heated windscreen timer
7 Cooling fan relay (air conditioning)
8 ABS pump relay
9 ABS relay
10 ABS diodes
12 Ride height control relay
12 Day running lights relay (not UK)
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3Carefully peel away the foam rubber sheet
in the area of the lock motor.
4Remove the two securing screws, unhook
the motor from the lock operating rod and
disconnect the multi-plug. Remove the motor
(see illustration).
5A defective lock motor must be renewed.
No spare parts are available.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
then adjust the lock linkage as follows.
7Move the locking lever to the “unlocked”
position. Slacken the screw which secures the
interior handle/lock lever assembly, push the
assembly forwards as far as it will go and
tighten the screw.1Remove the window operating mechanism,
complete with motor.
2Make sure that the spring is holding the
lever against its stop, then remove the three
bolts and separate the motor from the
operating mechanism (see illustrations).
Caution: Uncontrolled release of the spring
can cause injury and damage.
3Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Check the operations of the motor before
refitting the door trim panel.
Front height and fore-and-aft
motors
1Move the front seat rearwards as far as
possible to improve access. Remove the two
securing bolts from the front of the seat frame
and tip the seat backwards.
2Unbolt and remove the motor(s). Each
motor is secured by two bolts (see
illustration).Make sure that the drive cables
come away from the worm drives without
difficulty - if not, disconnect one end of the
worm drive too.
3If only one motor is being removed, free itsspade connectors from the common multi-
plug washer removing the plug shell (see
illustration).It is probably easier to remove
both motors and deal with the connectors on
the bench.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Check for correct operation of the motors on
completion.
Front recline motor
5Remove the front seat.
6Remove the seat cover and cushion.
7Remove the two securing bolts (see
illustration),disconnect the multi-plug and
withdraw the motor from the reclining
mechanism.
8When refitting, make sure that the motor
pinion gear meshes with the reclining
mechanism gear. Connect the multi-plug and
secure the motor with the two bolts.
9Refit the seat cover and cushion, then refit
the seat to the vehicle.
Rear recline motor
10Remove the trim panel from the left-hand
side of the luggage area.
11Remove the three Torx screws which
secure the motor and reclining mechanism.
Disconnect the multi-plug (next to the seat
squab) and remove the motor(see
illustration).
12Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Check for correct operation before refitting the
luggage area trim panel.
19Seat adjusting motors -
removal and refitting
18Window operating motor -
removal and refitting
Body electrical system 13•15
13
17.4 A door lock motor
Securing screws are arrowed18.2a Make sure that the lever is against
the stop (arrowed) . . .18.2b . . . then remove the three bolts
(arrowed) which secure the motor
19.3 Removing the spade connectors from
the multi-plug19.7 Front seat recline motor bolts
(arrowed)19.11 Rear seat recline motor
19.2 Seat adjusting motor bolts (arrowed)
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REF•3
The following list contains only those tools and
instruments freely available to the public, and not
those special tools produced by the vehicle
manufacturer specifically for its dealer network.
You will find occasional references to these
manufacturer’s special tools in the text of this
manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing
the job without the vehicle manufacturer’s special
tool is given. However, sometimes there is no
alternative to using them. Where this is the case
and the relevant tool cannot be bought or
borrowed, you will have to entrust the work to a
franchised garage.
MValve spring compressor (see illustration)
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor (see illustration)
MPiston ring removal/installation tool (see
illustration)
MCylinder bore hone (see illustration)
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
(see illustration)
MImpact screwdriver
MMicrometer and/or vernier calipers (see
illustrations)
MDial gauge (see illustration)
MStroboscopic timing light (see illustration)
MDwell angle meter/tachometer
MUniversal electrical multi-meter
MCylinder compression gauge (see
illustration)
MHand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
(see illustration)
MClutch plate alignment set (see
illustration)
MBrake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
(see illustration)
MBush and bearing removal/installation set
(see illustration)
MStud extractors (see illustration)
MTap and die set (see illustration)
MLifting tackle
MTrolley jackBuying tools
For practically all tools, a tool factor is the
best source, since he will have a very
comprehensive range compared with the
average garage or accessory shop. Having
said that, accessory shops often offer
excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it
pays to shop around.
Remember, you don’t have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. There are plenty of good tools around at
reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase
items which meet the relevant national safety
standards. If in doubt, ask the proprietor or
manager of the shop for advice before making
a purchase.
Care and maintenance of tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is
necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or
workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers
and pliers, is a good idea. Store all normal
spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any
measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc,
must be carefully stored where they cannot be
damaged or become rusty.
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their
blades from time to time. A little timely
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good serviceable
finish.
Working facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools is
the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out, some
form of suitable working area becomes
essential.
It is appreciated that many an owner-
mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.
Wherever possible, any dismantling should
be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.
Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw
opening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs.
As mentioned previously, some clean dry
storage space is also required for tools, as well
as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up
paints and so on, which become necessary.
Another item which may be required, and
which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.
Lastly, always keep a supply of old
newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available,
and try to keep any working area as clean as
possible.
Bush and bearing removal/installation setStud extractor setTap and die set
Tools and Working Facilities
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Q
Quarter window moulding - 12•10
R
Radiator - 3•3, 12•9
Radio fader light - 13•8
Radio or radio/cassette player - 13•20, 13•21
Rear light cluster - 13•5, 13•6
Recline motor - 13•15
Regulator mechanism - 12•9
Relays - 13•13
Respraying - 12•3
Reversing light switch - 7B•3, 13•12, 13•13
Ride height control - 11•12, 11•13
Road test - 1•16
Rocker shaft - 2C•12
Rotor arm - 5•5
Routine maintenance and servicing- 1•1et
seq
Rust holes or gashes in bodywork - 12•2
S
Safety first! - 0•5
Scalding - 0•5
Scratches in bodywork - 12•2
Screw threads and fastenings - REF•4
Seals and hoses - 1•19
Seat air cushion - 12•17
Seat belts - 0•12, 1•10, 12•17, 12•18
Seats - 0•12, 12•17, 12•18, 13•10, 13•13,
13•15
Selector rod - 7B•4
Servo - 10•12, 10•13, 13•20
Shock absorbers - 0•12, 0•13, 11•12
Short-circuit - 13•4
Side mouldings - 12•10
Sidelight - 13•4
Sliding roof - 12•5, 13•12, 13•16
Spare parts - 0•8
Spark plugs - 1•12, 5•5
Speakers - 13•21, 13•22
Speed control system components - 13•19,
13•20
Speedometer sender unit - 13•16
Spoiler - 12•11
Springs - 0•13, 11•11
Starter inhibitor/reversing light switch -
7B•3, 13•13
Starter motor - 5•4, 5•5
Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in
engagement - REF•6
Starter motor turns engine slowly - REF•6
Steering and suspension - 0•12, 0•13, 1•15,
1•16, 11•1et seq,REF•10
Steering column- 0•11, 11•5
Steering gear - 11•3
Steering intermediate shaft and flexible
coupling - 11•6Steering play - REF•10
Steering rack bellows - 11•4
Steering stiff - REF•10
Steering wheel - 0•11, 11•4, 11•5
Steering wheel and column -
Stop-light switch - 13•12
Strut - 11•9, 11•10
Stub axle carrier - 11•7
Sump - 2A•9, 2A•16, 2B•15, 2C•9, 2C•19
Switch illumination lights - 13•8
Switches - 13•9, 13•11, 13•12, 13•13,
13•18, 13•19
T
Tailgate - 12•4, 12•7, 13•12, 13•18
Tailgate wash/wipe inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation - REF•11
Tailgate window mouldings - 12•10
Tappets - 2C•13
Temperature gauge gives false reading -
REF•11
Temperature gauge sender - 3•7
Thermostat - 3•3
Throttle body - 4•15
Throttle cable - 4•7
Throttle kicker - 4•13
Throttle pedal - 4•6
Throttle position sensor - 4•15
Timing belt - 2A•8, 2A•14, 2A•18
Timing chain - 2B•8, 2B•10, 2C•9, 2C•17
Tools and working facilities- REF•1et seq
Towing - 0•7
Track rod end - 11•6
Transmission fluid brown, or has burned
smell - REF•9
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy,
or has no drive in forward or reverse
gears - REF•9
Transmission will not downshift (kickdown)
with accelerator pedal fully depressed -
REF•9
Tyre wear - REF•10
Tyres - 0•14, 1•7
U
Ultrasonic sensor - 13•23
Underbody inspection - 1•15
Unleaded fuel - 4•23
V
Vacuum dump valve/switch - 13•19
Vacuum hoses - 2C•7
Vacuum line modification - 7B•4
Vacuum pull-down adjustment - 4•13
Vacuum pump - 13•20
Vacuum servo - 10•12, 10•13, 13•20
Valve block and pump assembly - 10•13
Valve clearances - 1•13, 2A•20, 2C•21Valve grinding - 2A•14
Vane airflow meter(s) - 4•16
Vanity mirror light - 13•7
Vapour separator - 4•7
Vehicle identification - 0•9, 0•12
Vehicle pulls to one side - REF•9, REF•10
Vehicle speed sensor - 5•12
Vibration damper (MT75type gearbox) - 8•4
Viscous-coupled fan - 3•5
W
Wandering or general instability - REF•10
Warning light bulbs - 13•18
Wash/wipe inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation - REF•11
Wash/wipe switch - 13•12
Washer fluid - 1•7, 13•19
Washer jets inoperative - REF•11
Washer pump fails to operate - REF•11
Washer pump runs for some time before
fluid is emitted from jets - REF•11
Water pump - 3•5
Water pump/alternator drivebelt - 3•7
Weatherstrip - 12•7
Weber 2V carburettor - 4•9, 4•10
Weber 2V TLD carburettor - 4•11, 4•12,
4•13
Wheel alignment - 11•7
Wheel bearings - 0•13, 11•8, 11•11
Wheel changing - 0•7
Wheel sensors - 10•12
Wheel stud - 11•11
Wheel wobble and vibration - REF•10
Wheels - 0•14, 1•10
Wheels locking under normal braking -
REF•10
Window frame mouldings - 12•10
Window glass - 12•8
Window glass fails to move - REF•11
Window glass slow to move - REF•11
Window glass will only move in one
direction - REF•11
Window operating motor - 13•15
Window operating switch - 13•12
Windscreen - 0•11, 12•9
Windscreen mouldings - 12•10
Windscreen, rear window and headlight
washer components - 13•17
Wiper arms and blades - 13•16
Wiper blades - 1•9
Wiper blades fail to clean the glass
effectively - REF•11
Wiper blades sweep over too large or too
small an area of the glass - REF•11
Wiper motor - 13•17
Wipers fail to operate, or operate very
slowly - REF•11
Wiring diagrams- WD•0 et seq
Working facilities - REF•3
IND•3Index
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