1985 FORD GRANADA drain bolt

19Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
ignition distributor and the fuel temperature
sensor (see illustrations).
20Release the pressure in the fuel distributor
pipe by depressing the pin in the vent valve.
Cover the valve with a rag during this
operation to prevent fuel being sprayed out
(see illustration).
21Disconnect the fuel lines (see illustration).
22Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the
following components:
a)Fuel pressure regulator.
b)Throttle valve assembly.
c)T-piece connector (see illustration).
23Disconnect the rocker cover breather hose
(see illustration).
24Unbolt the plenum chamber and place it to
one side with the throttle cable attached.25Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and the ignition coil noting their correct
fitted locations. Undo the two retaining screws
then remove the distributor cap and HT leads
as an assembly.
26Using a 19 mm socket on the crankshaft
damper centre bolt, set No 1 piston to its firing
point (12°BTDC) and remove the distributor.
27If the right-hand cylinder head is to be
removed, remove the drivebelts, unbolt the
alternator and power steering pump and tie
them to one side of the engine compartment.
28Unbolt and remove the rocker cover(s).
29Unbolt and remove the rocker shaft(s) (see
illustration).
30Withdraw the pushrods and keep them in
their originally fitted sequence.
31Disconnect the inlet manifold to timingcover coolant hose from the manifold.
32Unbolt and remove the inlet manifold
complete with fuel rail and injectors. Discard
the gasket.
33Disconnect the exhaust downpipe(s) from
the manifold(s).
34Disconnect the earth straps from the rear
of the left-hand cylinder head and release the
cable retaining clamp.
35Unscrew and remove the spark plugs.
36Unscrew the cylinder head bolts using the
reverse of the tightening sequence (see
illustration 38.5). Obtain new bolts for refitting.
Remove the cylinder head(s) and discard the
gasket(s).
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 16
of this Chapter but note that there are 24 bolts
retaining the sump, not 23.
The procedure is described for the engine in
the vehicle. With the engine removed, the
preliminary steps can be ignored.
2.8 litre engine
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the engine oil.
3Drain the coolant and remove the radiator.
10Timing cover and drive -
removal
9Sump - removal
V6 engines 2C•9
2C
8.18b Disconnecting the idle speed control
valve wiring plug8.19a Disconnecting the distributor wiring
plug8.19b Disconnecting the fuel temperature
sensor wiring plug
8.22 Vacuum hose T-piece connector
8.20 Fuel rail vent (depressurising) valve
and cap8.21 Fuel feed (A) and return (B) hoses
8.23 Rocker cover breather hose (arrowed)8.29 Removing rocker shaft and pedestal
procarmanuals.com

4Remove the auxiliary drivebelts.
5Remove the fan and viscous clutch if fitted).
6Jam the crankshaft, either by engaging 5th
gear and applying the handbrake, or by
removing the starter motor and having an
assistant jam a screwdriver in the starter ring
gear teeth. Unbolt the crankshaft pulley. When
the pulley is secured to a vibration damper,
also remove the damper central bolt.
7Remove the pulley or damper, using a puller
if necessary.
8Disconnect the coolant hoses from the front
of the engine, including the water pump
bypass hose.
9Disconnect the heater connecting pipe from
the timing cover and unbolt the two clips
which secure the pipe to the cover of the
cylinder block (see illustration).
10If not already done, remove the starter motor.11Remove the sump.
12Remove the nine securing bolts and
remove the timing cover complete with water
pump and thermostat.
13Turn the crankshaft to bring the marks on
the timing gears into alignment as shown (see
illustration). Note that there are two marks on
the crankshaft gear - do not get them
confused.
14Remove the bolt which secures the
camshaft gear. It should now be possible to
remove the camshaft gear by hand.
15Draw off the crankshaft gear using a puller.
Recover the Woodruff keys if they are loose.
16Clean the old gasket off the timing cover
and the cylinder block. Remove the oil seal
from the timing cover.2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
17Using the crankshaft damper centre bolt,
turn the engine until No 1 piston is at its firing
point (12°BTDC). This can be verified by
removing the distributor cap and checking that
the rotor arm is aligned with the No 1 HT lead
contact.
18Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
19Unclip the air cleaner cover and remove it
complete with air flow sensors and air hoses.
Remove the oil filler cap.
20Drain the cooling system, disconnect the
radiator upper hose from the thermostat housing.
21Disconnect the hose which runs between
the water pump and the expansion tank.
22Remove the radiator upper shroud, then
the radiator (see illustrations).
23Remove the fan from the water pump hub
noting that it has a left-hand thread.
24Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
timing cover/water pump hose stubs.
25Remove the alternator and power steering
pump drivebelts (as applicable)
26Unscrew the four bolts and remove the
crankshaft pulley.
27Lock the crankshaft by jamming the starter
ring gear teeth, and unscrew the vibration
damper centre bolt. Withdraw the damper
from the front of the crankshaft. A puller will be
required for this, preferably one which has two
screws for the tapped holes provided (see
illustrations).
28Using an engine support bar or hoist, take
the weight of the engine then unscrew the nuts
2C•10V6 engines
10.9 Heater connecting pipe clip bolts
(arrowed)
10.27a Unscrewing the vibration damper
centre bolt
10.22b Removing radiator upper shroud10.22c Manoeuvre the radiator out from
under the vehicle
10.27b Using a puller to withdraw the
vibration damper10.28a Using an engine support bar to
support the engine
10.13 Camshaft and crankshaft gear marks
in alignment (engine inverted)
Disregard the other mark on the crankshaft gear10.22a Radiator upper shroud plastic clip
and centre pin
procarmanuals.com

from the top of the engine mounting brackets
(see illustrations).
29Drain the engine oil, retaining it for further
use only if it is not contaminated or due for
renewal.
30Unbolt the coolant distribution pipe bracket
from the timing cover (see illustration).
31Disconnect the leads and remove the
starter motor.
32Ensure that the front roadwheels and the
steering wheels are in the straight-ahead
position, then remove the pinch-bolt from the
steering shaft coupling and slide the coupling
down the shaft (see illustration).
33Unscrew the sump retaining nuts and
bolts. The rear bolts can only be unscrewed
using a box spanner or thin-walled socket.
34Release the brake hydraulic lines from
their support brackets by pulling out their
retaining clips.
35Unscrew the two bolts from each of the
crossmember side brackets. Lower the
crossmember just enough to be able to
remove the sump. In practice, as the car is
standing on its roadwheels, the car body
should be raised by placing two axle stands
under the front jacking points (see
illustration).
36Extract the nine bolts and remove the
timing cover complete with water pump (see
illustration). Removal of the radiator grille will
provide better access to the cover bolts.
37Check that the crankshaft and camshaft
sprocket timing marks are aligned at the
nearest point to each other (see illustration).If not, turn the crankshaft as necessary.
38Unbolt and remove the timing chain
tensioner. Take care not to allow the spring-
loaded tensioner plunger to eject (see
illustration).
39Lock the camshaft sprocket by passing a
rod through one of the holes and unscrew the
sprocket retaining bolt (see illustration).
40Remove the camshaft sprocket then
release the chain from the crankshaft sprocket
and remove the camshaft sprocket and chain
from the engine.
41If required, the crankshaft sprocket, Woodruff
key and chain guide can now be also removed.
42Clean away all old pieces of gasket from
the cylinder block and timing cover flanges.
43Remove and discard the sump gasket.
The gasket rear tabs may break off, so pickthem out of the recesses in the rear main
bearing cap using a sharp, pointed knife.
Refer to Part A, Section 15 of this Chapter.
2.8 litre engine
1Remove the sump.
2Remove the two securing bolts and remove
the oil pump complete with pick-up and
strainer.
12Oil pump - removal
11Flywheel/driveplate and
adapter plate - removal
V6 engines 2C•11
2C
10.28b Engine mounting top nut10.30 Coolant distribution pipe bracket10.32 Steering shaft coupling pinch bolt
10.37 Timing sprocket alignment marks
(arrowed)
10.36 Removing a timing cover retaining
bolt10.35 Unscrewing crossmember side
bracket mounting bolts
10.38 Timing chain tensioner assembly10.39 Slackening camshaft sprocket
retaining bolt
procarmanuals.com

29Fit the sump and the retaining nuts and
bolts. Tighten them progressively in two stages.
30Oil the lip of the timing cover oil seal and
the contact surface of the crankshaft damper.
31Fit the damper to the crankshaft, being
careful not to dislodge the Woodruff key. Draw
the damper into position using the retaining
bolt and washer.
32Remove the bolt and apply sealant to the
faces of the washer. Refit the bolt and washer
then jam the starter gear ring teeth and tighten
the bolt to the specified torque.
33Refit the crankshaft pulley and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque.
34Refit the crossmember side brackets and
brake pipes.
35Reconnect the engine mountings and
remove the engine hoist or axle stands (see
“Jacking”).36Connect the steering shaft coupling with
the steering wheel and front roadwheels in the
straight-ahead position. Fit the pinch-bolt and
tighten it to the specified torque.
37Fit the starter motor and connect the leads.
38Bolt the coolant distributor pipe to the
timing cover.
39Refit the alternator and power steering
pump drivebelts and tension them (see
illustrations).
40Fit the fan and radiator, connect all coolant
hoses, and fit the radiator upper shroud.
41Fit the air cleaner cover with attachments.
42Fill the engine with oil and coolant and
connect the battery.
2.8 litre engine
1Clean the mating faces of the crankcase
and sump. Ensure that the grooves in the seal
carriers are clean.
2Fit the rubber seals in the grooves.
3Apply sealing compound on the crankcase
and slide the tabs of the gasket under the cut-
outs in the rubber seals (see illustration).
4Ensure that the gasket hole lines up with the
holes in the gasket crankcase and fit the
sump. Take care not to dislodge the gasket.
5Fit the 24 securing bolts. Tighten them in
the sequence shown to the Stage 1 specified
torque starting at point A (see illustration),then to the Stage 2 torque starting at point B.
6Fit the sump drain plug, using a new
washer, and tighten it to the specified torque.
7If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
steps taken to gain access.
2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
8Refer to paragraphs 28 to 29, Section 36.
2.8 litre engine
1Lubricate the valve tappets with clean
engine oil and insert them in the cylinder
block. Ensure that they are fitted in their
original locations (see illustration).
2Ensure that the mating faces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder heads are clean.
3Position the new cylinder head gaskets over
the guide bushes on the cylinder block. Check
that they are correctly located. The right and
left-hand gaskets are different. The gaskets
are marked FRONT TOP (see illustration).
4Carefully lower the cylinder heads onto the
cylinder block. Oil the threads and contact
faces of the cylinder head bolts and insert
them into their holes.
5Tighten the cylinder head bolts, in the
correct order(see illustration),to the Stage 1
specified torque. Repeat in the same order for
Stages 2 and 3. Final tightening, when
required, is done after warm-up.
38Cylinder heads - refitting
37Sump - refitting
V6 engines 2C•19
2C
36.39a Alternator drivebelt tensioner strap
bolt36.39b Power steering pump drivebelt
tensioner bolt37.3 Slide the sump gasket tab into the seal
cut-out
38.1 Fitting a tappet in the block
37.5 Sump bolt tightening sequence
For A and B see text
38.3 Cylinder head gasket markings38.5 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence
procarmanuals.com

6Lubricate the pushrods with engine oil and
insert them in the cylinder block.
7Place the oil splash shields in position on
the cylinder heads and fit the rocker shaft
assemblies. Guide the rocker arm adjusting
screws into the pushrod sockets (see
illustrations).
8Tighten the rocker shaft securing bolts
progressively to the specified torque.
9Refit the inlet manifold, using a new gasket.
Do not refit the rocker covers yet.
10Adjust the valve clearances (Section 39).
11Refit the spark plugs.
12Refit the rocker covers, using new
gaskets. The adhesive side of the gaskets
should face the rocker cover.
13If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
preliminary steps.2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
14Refitting the cylinder heads to these
engines is essentially a reversal of the removal
procedure but also refer to information given
for the 2.8 litre engine whilstnoting the
following points.
15Always use new Torx type cylinder head
bolts. Oil them and allow them to drain. When
fitted the word OBEN should be visible on the
new gaskets.
16Tighten the bolts in the specified
sequence (as for the 2.8 litre engine) to the
correct torque. The final stage in the tightening
procedure is by the angular method. Use a
disc similar to the one shown or make a paint
mark at the same point on each bolt head to
ensure that each bolt is turned through exactly
the same number of degrees (see
illustration).17As a result of the bolt tightening torque
used and the elasticity of the bolts, no further
tightening is required after the initial running-in
period.
18Apply jointing compound to the areas
where the inlet manifold and cylinder heads
meet and locate a new gasket in position.
Make sure that it is the correct way around.
Tighten the inlet manifold bolts to the specified
torque and in the sequence shown (see
illustrations).
19Check that No 1 piston is still at the firing
point (12°BTDC) and fit the distributor.
20Adjust the valve clearances.
21Fit new rocker cover gaskets, peeling off
the self-adhesive shield before sticking the
gaskets to the covers. Note the aluminium
spacers in the gaskets to prevent
overtightening (see illustration).
22Use a new gasket at the plenum chamber
and tighten the fixing bolts to the specified
torque (see illustration).
23Refit the alternator and power steering
pump (where removed) and tension the
drivebelts.
24Reconnect the fuel lines and secure them
in position with new clips. Reconnect all
coolant and vacuum hoses and electrical
connectors. Refill the engine with coolant and
reconnect the battery.
25Switch on the ignition and bleed the fuel
system by operating the vent valve on the fuel rail.
26Run the engine up to normal operating
temperature and then check the ignition
timing.
2C•20V6 engines
38.7a Fitting the pushrods and oil splash
shields
38.18a Inlet manifold gasket correctly
located38.18b Fitting inlet manifold complete with
fuel rail and injectors
38.22 Lowering the plenum chamber into
position38.18c Inlet manifold tightening sequence
Arrow indicates the front of the engine38.21 Peeling off rocker cover gasket
protective shield
38.7b Fitting an assembled rocker shaft38.16 Tightening a cylinder head bolt using
an angular tightening disc
procarmanuals.com

Cooling system
The cooling system is of pressurised type
and includes a front mounted crossflow
radiator, belt-driven water pump, temperature-
sensitive thermo-viscous fan (on DOHC
models, an electrically-operated cooling fan is
fitted, operated by a switch in the thermostat
housing), wax type thermostat, and an
expansion and degas tank.
The radiator matrix is of copper and brass
construction and the end tanks are of plastic.
On automatic transmission models the right-
hand side end tank incorporates the
transmission oil cooler.
The thermostat is located behind the water
outlet elbow at the front of the cylinder head
on OHCmodels, and on the front of the water
pump on V6 models. Its purpose is to ensure
rapid engine warm-up by restricting the flow of
coolant in the engine when cold, and also to
assist in regulating the normal operating
temperature of the engine.
The expansion tank incorporates a pressure
cap which effectively pressurises the cooling
system as the coolant temperature rises,
thereby increasing the boiling point of the
coolant. The tank also has a further degas
function. Any accumulation of air bubbles in
the coolant, in particular in the thermostat
housing and the radiator, is returned to the
tank and released in the air space thus
maintaining the efficiency of the coolant.
On models fitted with the auxiliary warning
system, the expansion tank contains a level
sensor which operates a warning light if the
coolant level falls significantly.
When the engine is started from cold, the
water pump circulates coolant around the
cylinder block, cylinder head(s) and inlet
manifold. The warm coolant passes through
the automatic choke housing (when
applicable) and through the heater matrix
before returning to the engine. As the coolant
expands, the level in the expansion tank rises.
Circulation of coolant through the radiator is
prevented while the thermostat is shut. When
the coolant reaches the predeterminedtemperature the thermostat opens and hot
water passes through the top hose to the top
of the radiator. As the water circulates down
through the radiator, it is cooled by the
passage of air past the radiator when the car is
in forward motion, supplemented by the action
of the thermo-viscous fan when necessary.
Having reached the bottom of the radiator, the
water is now cool and the cycle is repeated.
Circulation of water continues through the
expansion tank, inlet manifold and heater at all
times; the heater temperature control being by
an air flap.
The thermo-viscous fan is controlled by the
temperature of air behind the radiator. When
the air temperature reaches a predetermined
level, a bi-metallic coil commences to open a
valve within the unit and silicon fluid is fed
through a system of vanes. Half of the vanes
are driven directly by the water pump and the
remaining half are connected to the fan blades.
The vanes are arranged so that drive is
transmitted to the fan blades in relation to the
drag or viscosity of the fluid, and this in turn
depends on ambient temperature and engine
speed. The fan is therefore only operated when
required, and compared with direct drive type
fan represents a considerable improvement in
fuel economy, drivebelt wear and fan noise.
Air conditioning
Air conditioning is fitted as standard on
Scorpio models and is optionally available on
some other models. In conjunction with the
heater, the system enables any reasonable air
temperature to be achieved inside the car, it
also reduces the humidity of the incoming air,
aiding demisting even when cooling is not
required.
The refrigeration side of the air conditioning
system functions in a similar way to a
domestic refrigerator. A compressor, belt-
driven from the crankshaft pulley, draws
refrigerant in its gaseous phase from an
evaporator. The compressed refrigerant
passes through a condenser where it loses
heat and enters its liquid phase. After
dehydration the refrigerant returns to the
evaporator where it absorbs heat from air
passing over the evaporator fins. The
refrigerant becomes a gas again and the cycle
is repeated.Various subsidiary controls and sensors
protect the system against excessive
temperature and pressures. Additionally,
engine idle speed is increased when the
system is in use to compensate for the
additional load imposed by the compressor.
Precautions
Antifreeze mixture
Antifreeze mixture is poisonous. Keep it out
of reach of children and pets. Wash splashes
off skin and clothing with plenty of water.
Wash splashes off vehicle paintwork to avoid
discolouration.
Antifreeze/water mixture must be renewed
every two years to preserve its anti-corrosive
properties. In climates where antifreeze
protection is unnecessary, a corrosion
inhibitor may be used instead - consult a Ford
dealer. Never run the engine for long periods
with plain water as coolant. Only use the
specified antifreeze, as inferior brands may not
contain the necessary corrosion inhibitors, or
may break down at high temperatures.
Antifreeze containing methanol is particularly
to be avoided, as the methanol evaporates.
The specified mixture is 45 to 50%
antifreeze and 50 to 55% clean soft water (by
volume). Mix the required quantity in a clean
container.
Air conditioning refrigerant
Although the refrigerant is not itself toxic, in
the presence of a naked flame (or a lighted
cigarette) it forms a highly toxic gas. Liquid
refrigerant spilled on the skin will cause
frostbite. If refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse
them with a dilute solution of boric acid and
seek medical advice immediately.
In view of the above points, and of the need
for specialised equipment for evacuating and
recharging the system, any work which
requires the disconnection of a refrigerant line
must be left to a specialist.
Do not allow refrigerant lines to be exposed
to temperatures above 110°C (230°F) - eg
during welding or paint drying operations and
do not operate the air conditioning system if it
is known to be short of refrigerant, or further
damage may result.
1General information and
precautions
3•2Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Radiator lower mountings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 126 to 9
Thermostat housing bolts:
SOHC, DOHC and 2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2013 to 15
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 105 to 7
Water pump bolts:
SOHC, M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 16
SOHC, M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 to 4226 to 31
DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2816 to 21
2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 137 to 10
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 105 to 7
Water pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2616 to 19
Water pump/alternator drivebelt tensioner bolt (DOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 9752 to 72
Fan-to-viscous clutch bolts:
SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 106 to 7
V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2313 to 17
Fan shroud bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
Cylinder block drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2516 to 18
procarmanuals.com

See Chapter 1, Section 46.
See Chapter 1, Section 46.
See Chapter 1, Section 46.
1Drain the radiator. There is no need to drain
the cylinder block. On DOHC engines the
electric cooling fan assembly must be removed
to gain the clearance to remove the radiator.
2Disconnect the top and bottom hoses from
the radiator by slackening the hose clips and
pulling off the hoses with a twisting motion
(see illustrations). Do not use excessive force
- the radiator side tanks are made of plastic.
3On OHCmodels, disconnect the small hose
running from the expansion tank to the radiator.
4On automatic transmission models, clean
around the transmission fluid cooler unions on
the radiator and disconnect them (seeillustration). Be prepared for fluid spillage;
plug or cap the cooler lines to keep dirt out.
5On models with air conditioning, disconnect
the auxiliary fan thermo-switch. If the thermo-
switch is mounted in the radiator, remove It.
6Remove the upper half of the fan shroud by
removing the two bolts and two clips (see
illustration), and the lower half which is
secured by two bolts.
7Release the two radiator top mounting clips
by pulling out the plastic plugs (see illustration).
8Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
Support the radiator and remove the two
bottom mounting bolts (see illustration).
9Carefully lower the radiator slightly to free
the top mountings, then remove it from under
the vehicle.
10If a new radiator is being fitted, transfer the
fan shrouds and mountings from the old one.
11Refit by reversing the removal operations,
then refill the cooling system.
12On automatic transmission models, check
the transmission fluid level.
1If the radiator has been removed because of
suspected blockage, reverse-flush it.
2Clean dirt and debris from the radiator fins,
using an air jet, or water and a soft brush. Be
careful not to damage the fins, or cut your
fingers. 3A radiator specialist can perform a “flow
test” on the radiator to establish whether an
internal blockage exists.
4A leaking radiator must be referred to a
specialist for permanent repair. Do not attempt
to weld or solder a leaking radiator, as
damage to the plastic parts may result.
5In an emergency, minor leaks from the
radiator can be cured by using a radiator
sealant while the radiator is in situ.
SOHC engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system. As it is not
necessary to completely drain the radiator, the
bottom hose can be disconnected from the
water pump.
3Disconnect the top hose from the
thermostat housing at the front of the cylinder
head (see illustration).
4Unscrew the bolts and remove the housing
and gasket (see illustration).
5Using a screwdriver, prise the retaining clip
from the housing, and extract the thermostat
and sealing ring (see illustrations).
6Clean the thermostat housing and cylinder
head mating surfaces. Obtain a new gasket for
reassembly, and if necessary a new sealing
ring too.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
7Thermostat - removal and
refitting
6Radiator - inspection and repair
5Radiator - removal and refitting
4Cooling system - filling
3Cooling system - flushing
2Cooling system - draining
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3
3
5.2a Radiator top hose5.2b Radiator bottom hose (A)
Also shown are automatic transmission fluid
cooler lower union (B) and hose to expansion
tank (C)5.4 Transmission fluid cooler upper union
5.6 Fan shroud clip5.7 Pull out the plug to release the radiator
top mounting5.8 One of the radiator bottom mounting
bolts (arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

Make sure that the thermostat is the right way
round - the wax capsule fits into the cylinder
head, with the direction of flow arrow facing
forwards (see illustration).
8Refill the cooling system.
DOHC engines
9Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10Drain the cooling system.
11On fuel-injection models, for access to the
thermostat housing, loosen the clips and
remove the air inlet tube which connects the
plenum chamber to the inlet manifold.
12Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (see illustrations).
13Disconnect the wiring plug from the
cooling fan switch mounted in the thermostat
housing (see illustration).
14Unscrew the three securing bolts, andwithdraw the thermostat housing (see
illustration).
15Manoeuvre the thermostat away from the
inlet manifold and recover the O-ring. If it is
necessary to prise the thermostat out, take
care not to damage the surface of the housing
in the inlet manifold.
16Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a)Ensure that the O-ring seal is correctly
fitted around the edge of the thermostat.
b)When fitting the thermostat to the inlet
manifold ensure that the relief valve is
located in the 12 o’clock position (see
illustration).
c)Tighten the thermostat housing bolts to
the specified torque.
d)Refill the cooling system.
3•4Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
7.3 Top hose attachment to the thermostat
housing
7.12b . . . from the thermostat housing
7.5b . . . extract the thermostat . . .7.5c . . . and the sealing ring7.7 Thermostat direction of flow arrow
7.12a Disconnecting the coolant hoses . . .
7.13 Disconnect the cooling fan switch
wiring plug . . .7.14 . . . and remove the thermostat
housing
7.4 Removing the thermostat housing7.5a Remove the retaining clip . . .
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