1985 FORD GRANADA window

panel. Disconnect the wiring connectors from
the heated window switches and fuel
computer (where fitted) and remove the panel
from the car.
14Undo the two retaining screws then
manoeuvre the control panel out of the facia
and disconnect the wiring connector (see
illustration).
15Unclip the central fan switch from the
panel then, using a small flat-bladed
screwdriver, bend back the retaining tabs and
remove the cover from the panel base plate
(see illustration).
16Cut the cable retaining clips then release
the cables from the toothed guides and
remove the base plate.
17Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure securing the cables to the base
plate using new retaining clips.
Models before April 1992
Front
1Remove the heater controls as described in
the previous Section.
2Remove the centre console as described in
Chapter 12. Also remove the console bracket
and the gear lever inner gaiter.
3Unclip the under-dash trim on both sides.
Remove the glovebox lid.
4Remove the radio (Chapter 13).
5Remove the ABS and (when applicable) the
EEC IV modules (Chapters 10 and 13).
6Remove the remaining lower trim on the
passenger side to expose the heater casing.
7Remove the two securing screws and
release the cables from the heater.
8When refitting, place the air distribution and
temperature control valve levers in their
uppermost positions, then connect the cables.
9The remainder of refitting is a reversal of the
removal procedure.
Rear
10Remove the centre console (Chapter 12).
11Remove the front seat on the side
concerned. Also remove the rear seat cushion. 12Remove the front seat belt lower anchor bolt.
13Remove the front scuff plate, which is
secured by three screws. Remove the front
screw from the rear scuff plate.
14Roll back the front carpet from the scuff
plates to expose the heater cable. Release the
cable from its ties and disconnect it from the
control unit and the nozzle (see illustration).
15Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Models from April 1992
16Remove the facia undercovers, the right-
hand lower facia panel and the glovebox .
17Undo the two retaining nuts, then release
the retaining clips and remove the trim panel
from the glovebox aperture.
18Remove the heater control panel.
19Slacken and remove the control cable
retaining screws then release the retaining
clips (one screw and one clip for each cable).
Detach the cables from the heater assembly
and withdraw them from the facia whilst noting
the correct routing (see illustration).
20Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure noting the following points.
a)Ensure that the cables are correctly routed
prior to connecting them to the heater
housing.
b)Prior to refitting the glovebox aperture trim
panel, check that the panel controls
function correctly and that the cables
move the relevant operating lever
smoothly from the fully open to the fully
closed position without any trace of undue
friction.
Models before April 1992
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Depressurise the cooling system by
slackening the expansion tank cap. Take
precautions against scalding if the system is
hot.3Disconnect the two heater hoses from the
stubs on the bulkhead. Be prepared for some
coolant spillage: catch the coolant in a clean
container if it is fit for re-use. Plug the hoses,
or tie them up with their open ends raised.
4Expel as much coolant as possible from the
heater matrix by blowing through it.
5Remove the matrix connector plate and
gasket from the bulkhead.
6Working inside the vehicle, remove the
centre console and other trim as described for
access to the heater control cables .
7Remove the instrument cluster surround,
which is secured by four screws. Also pull out
the heater louvre panel.
8Remove the facia panel top, which is
secured by five screws and four clips.
9Detach the air trunking from the heater
casing. Release the trunking from the
bulkhead when necessary.
10Remove the two nuts which secure the
heater unit. Pull the unit into the vehicle until
the pipe stubs are clear of the bulkhead, then
remove it sideways. Be prepared for coolant
spillage.
11Check the condition of the foam gasket on
the bulkhead and renew it if necessary.
12Refit by reversing the removal operations.
13Top-up the cooling system on completion,
and check the level again after the engine has
been run.
Models from April 1992
14Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
15Drain the cooling system.
19Heater assembly - removal
and refitting
18Heater control cables -
removal and refitting
3•8Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
17.14 Heater control panel retaining screws
(arrowed)
18.19 Heater control cable retaining screw
and clip (arrowed)
17.15 Exploded view of the heater control
panel
A Control cable retaining clips
B Cover
C Fan switch
D Base plate18.14 Rear heater control cable at nozzle
procarmanuals.com

1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead.
2Disconnect the battery positive leads. These
may be protected by a plastic cover. Do not
allow the spanner to bridge the positive and
negative terminals.
3Release the battery hold-down clamp. Lift
out the battery. Keep it upright and be careful
not to drop it - it is heavy.
4Commence by placing the battery in its tray,
making sure it is the right way round. Secure it
with the hold-down clamp.
5Clean the battery terminals if necessary
then reconnect them. Connect the positive
lead first, then the negative lead.
1Should it appear that the alternator is not
charging the battery, check first that the
drivebelt is intact and in good condition and
that its tension is correct. Also check the
condition and security of the alternator
electrical connections and the battery leads.
2Accurate assessment of alternator output
requires special equipment and a degree of
skill. A rough idea of whether output is
adequate can be gained by using a voltmeter
(range 0 to 15 or 0 to 20 volts) as follows.
3Connect the voltmeter across the battery
terminals. Switch on the headlights and note
the voltage reading: it should be between 12
and 13 volts.
4Start the engine and run it at a fast idle
(approx 1500 rpm). Read the voltmeter: it
should indicate 13 to 14 volts.
5With the engine still running at a fast idle,
switch on as many electrical consumers as
possible (heated rear window, heater blower
etc). The voltage at the battery should be
maintained at 13 to 14 volts. Increase the
engine speed slightly if necessary to keep the
voltage up.
6If alternator output is low or zero, check the
brushes. If the brushes are OK, seek expert
advice.7Occasionally the condition may arise where
the alternator output is excessive. Clues to this
condition are constantly blowing bulbs;
brightness of lights vary considerably with
engine speed; overheating of alternator and
battery, possible with steam or fumes coming
from the battery. This condition is almost
certainly due to a defective voltage regulator,
but expert advice should be sought.
8Note that the alternator voltage regulator
can be renewed without removing the
alternator from the vehicle. The procedure is
part of brush renewal.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the multi-plug from the rear of
the alternator. It may be secured by a wire clip.
3Slacken the alternator adjusting and pivot
nut(s), bolt(s)and washer(s)(see illustration).
Swing the alternator towards the engine and
slip the drivebelt(s) off the pulley.
4Support the alternator. Remove the
adjusting and pivot nuts, bolts and washers,
noting the fitted positions of the washers. Lift
out the alternator. Do not drop it, it is fragile.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Tension the drivebelt(s) then tighten the
adjustment strap bolt followed by the pivot nut
and bolt. If there are two pivot bolts, tighten
the front one first.
6Refit the multi-plug and reconnect the
battery.
1The alternator brushes can be inspected or
renewed without removing the alternator from
the vehicle, but disconnect the battery
negative lead first.
2From the rear of the alternator remove the
two screws which secure the voltage
regulator/brush carrier assembly. Withdraw
the assembly (see illustration).
3Measure the length of each brush
protruding from the carrier (see illustration). If
they are worn down to, or below, the minimumspecified, the old brushes will have to be
unsoldered and new ones soldered into place.
Some skill with a soldering iron will be
required; excess heat from the soldering iron
could damage the voltage regulator. When
fitted, the new brushes must move freely in
their holders.
4Clean the slip rings with a cloth moistened
with methylated spirit (see illustration). If they
are badly burnt or damaged, seek expert
advice.
5Refit the assembled brush carrier/voltage
regulator and secure it with the two screws. If
the alternator is on the vehicle, reconnect the
battery negative lead.
1If the starter motor fails to operate, first
check that the battery is charged by switching
on the headlights. If the headlights do not
come on, or rapidly become dim, the battery
or its connections are at fault.
2Check the security and condition of the
battery and starter solenoid connections.
Remember that the heavy lead to the solenoid
is always “live” - disconnect the battery
negative lead before using tools on the
solenoid connections.
8Starter motor - testing on the
vehicle7Alternator - brush renewal
6Alternator - removal and
refitting
5Alternator - testing on the
vehicle
4Battery - removal and refitting
5•4Engine electrical systems
7.3 Measuring brush protrusion7.4 Clean the slip rings (arrowed)
6.3 Alternator mounting details
A Large washer
B Small washer (not always fitted)
C Mounting bracket
D Alternator
Some models have a single pivot bolt
7.2 Removing the voltage regulator/brush
carrier
procarmanuals.com

Chapter 12
Bodywork and fittings
Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Bonnet insulation panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Boot lid lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Boot lid - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Bumper mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Door exterior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Door interior trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Door latch assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Door lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Door striker plate - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Door weatherstrip - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Door window frame mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .31
Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Door window regulator mechanism - removal and refitting . . . . . . .24
Exterior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Facia panels and trim - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Front bumper - height adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Front seat - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Front seat air cushion - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Front seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Front spoiler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37Fuel filler lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Headlining - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Interior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Motifs and emblems - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Overhead console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Rear parcel shelf - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Rear quarter window moulding - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .32
Rear seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Rear seat components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
Seat belts - care and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Side mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Sliding roof - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Tailgate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Tailgate latch assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Tailgate lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Tailgate strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Tailgate window mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Windscreen and fixed glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Windscreen mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front seat belt buckle to seat frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 to 64 38 to 47
Seat belt retractor bolts (front and rear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 45 18 to 33
Other seat belt anchorages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 45 18 to 33
Rear seat back hinge to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 16 to 18
Rear seat back latch striker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 60 30 to 44
Front seat retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 32 18 to 24
Front seat frame-to-slide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 32 18 to 24
Rear bumper mountings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 16
Front bumper adjuster lockbolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 16
12•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
12
The bodyshell and floorpan are of pressed
steel, and form an integral part of the vehicle’s
structure. Various reinforcing and mounting
components beneath the floorpan are made of
HSLA (High Strength Low Alloy) and REPHOS
(rephosphorised) steels, which have superiorstrength-to-weight characteristics when
compared with conventional steels.
Extensive use is made of plastic for
peripheral components such as the radiator
grille, bumpers and wheel trims, and for much
of the interior trim.
Interior fittings are to the high standard
expected in a vehicle of this class, with even
the basic level models well equipped. A wide
range of options is available, including air
conditioning and leather upholstery.The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
2 Maintenance - bodywork and
underframe1 General information
procarmanuals.com

important also to keep watch on those parts of
the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the underframe
of the vehicle steam-cleaned, engine
compartment included, so that a thorough
inspection can be carried out to see what
minor repairs and renovations are necessary.
Steam-cleaning is available at many garages,
and is necessary for the removal of the
accumulation of oily grime, which sometimes
is allowed to become thick in certain areas. If
steam-cleaning facilities are not available,
there are some excellent grease solvents
available which can be brush-applied; the dirt
can then be simply hosed off. Note that these
methods should not be used on vehicles with
wax-based underbody protective coating, or
the coating will be removed. Such vehicles
should be inspected annually, preferably just
prior to Winter, when the underbody should be
washed down, and any damage to the wax
coating repaired. Ideally, a completely fresh
coat should be applied. It would also be worth
considering the use of such wax-based
protection for injection into door panels, sills,
box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard
against rust damage, where such protection is
not provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has
dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish. Always check that
the door and ventilator opening drain holes
and pipes are completely clear, so that water
can be drained out. Brightwork should be
treated in the same way as paintwork.
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear
of the smeary film which often appears, by theuse of proprietary glass cleaner. Never use
any form of wax or other body or chromium
polish on glass.
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the material.
Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in
the same way as the upholstery. When using
liquid cleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-
wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive
damp could get into the seams and padded
interior, causing stains, offensive odours or
even rot. If the inside of the vehicle gets wet
accidentally, it is worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly, particularly
where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or
electric heaters inside the vehicle for this
purpose.
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the
scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very
fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from
the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique is
required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smoothcotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being “belled-
out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes in
bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area, and
from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire
brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide whether
to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or
4Minor body damage - repair
3Maintenance - upholstery and
carpets
12•2Bodywork and fittings
procarmanuals.com

Where serious damage has occurred or
large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
means certainly that completely new sections
or panels will need welding in and this is best
left to professionals. If the damage is due to
impact, it will also be necessary to completely
check the alignment of the bodyshell
structure. Due to the principle of construction,
the strength and shape of the whole car can
be affected by damage to one part. In such
instances the services of a Ford agent with
specialist checking jigs are essential. If a body
is left misaligned, it is first of all dangerous as
the car will not handle properly, and secondly
uneven stresses will be imposed on the
steering, engine and transmission, causing
abnormal wear or complete failure. Tyre wear
may also be excessive.
1Open and prop the bonnet.
2Mark around the bonnet hinge bolts, using
soft pencil or a washable marker pen, to
provide a guide when refitting (see
illustration).
3Disconnect the windscreen washer hose atthe non-return valve or washer pump. Be
prepared for fluid spillage.
4Disconnect the under-bonnet light (when
fitted).
5Free the insulation from around the left-
hand hinge bolts. With the help of an assistant,
support the bonnet and remove the hinge
bolts. Unhook the bonnet from the pump and
remove it.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the gap between the bonnet
and the wings is equal on both sides when the
bonnet is shut; adjust if necessary at the hinge
bolts.
7Adjust the bump stops and bonnet lock
striker if necessary to obtain satisfactory
opening and closing of the bonnet (see
illustration).
Later models
8The operation for later models is essentially
as described above, noting thatit will be
necessary to unclip the insulation panel from
the underside of the bonnet to gain access to
the windscreen washer hose and washer
nozzle heater wiring plugs (see illustration).
9Disconnect the wiring plugs and hose and
free them from the retaining clips on the right-
hand side of the bonnet before removal.
10On refitting ensure that the hose and
wiring are correctly routed and retained by all
the necessary clips before refitting the
insulation panel (see illustrations).1Open the door and disconnect the wiring
multi-plug from the door pillar (see
illustration).
2Unbolt the door check strap.
3Slacken, but do not remove, the hinge
cotter pin nuts (see illustration).
4Open the door to approximately 60°from
the vehicle body and lift it off the hinges. If the
door is reluctant to move, make sure that it is
opened to the correct angle and that the cotter
pin nuts are adequately slackened.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Adjust the door striker plate if necessary as
described in Section 12.
6If a new door is to be fitted, new hinges will
have to be welded to it after trial fitting.
Consult a Ford dealer for details.
Hatchback models
1Open the tailgate and remove the interior
trim panel, which is retained by eleven screws.
2Disconnect the wiring from the heated rear
window, aerial pre-amplifier and lock solenoid.
3Repeat paragraph 2 for the rear wiper motor
and the rear washer tube, and any other
electrical equipment.
8Tailgate - removal and refitting
7Door - removal and refitting
6Bonnet - removal and refitting
5Major body damage - repair
12•4Bodywork and fittings
6.2 Left-hand hinge bolts (arrowed) are
obscured by insulation
6.10 On refitting ensure the wiring and
hoses are correctly routed and secured by
all necessary retaining clips
7.1 Door wiring multi-plug7.3 One of the hinge cotter pins (arrowed)
6.7 Bonnet lock striker and safety catch6.8 On later models disconnect the washer
nozzle heater wiring plugs before removing
the bonnet
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3Apply masking tape to the front and sides of
the roof aperture to protect the paintwork.
4Close the roof. Remove the Torx screw
which secures the operating handle,
counterholding the handle whilst slackening
the screw (see illustration). Remove the
operating handle.
5With the aid of an assistant, remove the
sliding roof assembly by pushing it up from
inside and drawing it forwards from outside.
Support the rear of the roof as it is removed.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1If the release cable has broken, the bonnet
catch can be released from below with the aid of
a long screwdriver. It will be necessary to raise
and support the front of the vehicle for access.
With the bonnet open, proceed as follows.
2Remove the steering column lower shroud.
3Disconnect the cable from the release lever
by pulling the cable outer from the bracket,
then unhooking the inner from the lever (see
illustration).
4Pull the cable through the bulkhead
grommet into the engine bay. Release the
cable from any clips or ties.
5Disengage the inner and outer cables from
the bonnet catch (see illustration). Remove
the cable.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
being careful not to kink or bend the cable.
Check that operation of the release lever causes
the catch to move before closing the bonnet.
1Open the door and slacken the two Torx
screws which secure the striker plate. The
screws should be loosened until the plate can
be moved by tapping, but not by hand pressure.
2Move the striker plate if necessary until it is
aligned with the centre of the latch opening
(see illustration).
3Open and close the door a few times until the
locking action is smooth and the door position
when shut is satisfactory. Then open the door
again and tighten the striker plate screws.1Remove the door interior trim panel.
2Carefully peel away the foam rubber sheet
in the area of the door handle operating rod.
Disconnect the rod from the handle.
3Remove the two screws which secure the
handle to the door, then remove the handle.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Remove the door interior trim panel.
2Carefully peel away the foam rubber sheet
in the area of the lock barrel. Unhook the
operating rod from the lock barrel lever (see
illustration).
3When so equipped, unclip the switch from
the lock barrel and disconnect its wiring.
4Remove the large U-clip which secures the
lock barrel to the door. Remove the barrel.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Check the lock for correct operation before
refitting the door trim.
1Remove the door interior trim panel.
2Carefully peel away the foam rubber sheet
in the area of the door latch. Unhook the lock
barrel operating rod from the latch. Also
unhook the exterior handle operating rod.
3Disconnect the lock motor multi-plug (when
fitted). Remove the two screws to release the
lock motor. Pivot the motor to release the
operating rod from it.
4Remove the door interior handle securing
screw (see illustration). Slide the handle
rearwards to release it from the door. Unhook
the rods from the handle and release them
from their bushes.
5When door latch switches are fitted,
disconnect the switch multi-plug.
6Remove the three screws which secure the
door latch (see illustration). Manoeuvre the
latch behind the window channel and out of
15Door latch assembly -
removal and refitting
14Door lock barrel - removal
and refitting
13Door exterior handle -
removal and refitting
12Door striker plate - adjustment
11Bonnet release cable -
removal and refitting
12•6Bodywork and fittings
11.3 Unhooking the cable inner from the
release lever
14.2 Unhook the operating rod (arrowed)
from the lock barrel lever
15.4 Door interior handle securing screw
(arrowed)
15.6 Door latch securing screws
11.5 Bonnet release cable connected to
catch12.2 Door latch striker in line with centre of
opening
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the door through the large cut-out. Further
displacement or removal of the foamrubber
sheet may be necessary.
7Refit in the reverse order to removal, noting
the following points:
a)Apply a little grease to the interior handle
rods where they pass through the plastic
bushes
b)When securing the interior handle, have
the locking lever in the “unlocked”
position, hold the assembly forwards as
far as itwill go and tighten the securing
screw
c)Check all functions before refitting the trim
panel.
Door weatherstrip
1Open the door and remove the weatherstrip
securing screw from the latch end. In the case
of the rear door, also remove the screw from
the hinge end.
2Carefully lift the latch end of the
weatherstrip and pull it off the door.
3Refit by reversing the removal operations,
using your palm to seat the weatherstrip.
Aperture weatherstrip
4Open the door. Remove the scuff plate
securing screws from the bottom of the door
aperture.
5Pull the old weatherstrip out of the door
aperture.
6Fit the new weatherstrip, starting at the
right-angled corner at the top. Fit the
weatherstrip to the other corners and bends,
leaving the straight sections until last.
7Refit the scuff, plate securing screws.
All models except Estate
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the tailgate interior trim panel,
which is secured by eleven screws.
3Remove the six nuts which secure the
tailgate handle. Remove the handle and
recover the gasket.
4Disconnect the tailgate lock switch multi-
plug. Release the switch locking tab and
remove the switch.
5Disconnect the operating rod from the lock
lever (see illustration). Extract the U-clip and
remove the lock barrel.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Estate models
7The tailgate lock barrel can be removed and
refitted as described above, bearing in mind
the notes made in Section 8 when removing
the interior trim panels and noting that the lock
assembly is retained by two Torx bolts.1Open up the boot lid and remove the trim
panel from the inside of the lid.
2Unscrew the four boot lid exterior trim
retaining panel bolts (two situated on each
side of the lock) then carefully prise out the
nine panel retaining clips and remove the
panel from the boot lid.
3Undo the two lock barrel retaining nuts then
partially withdraw the barrel and disconnect the
wiring connector and lock operating rod from
the barrel. Remove the lock barrel from the lid.
4Undo the four lid lock retaining bolts then
withdraw the lock assembly from the boot lid,
disconnecting the central locking and warning
switch wiring plugs (see illustration).
5Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure tightening all retaining bolts
securely. On completion check the operation
of the boot lid lock and lock barrel before
refitting the trim panel.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the tailgate interior trim panel,
which is secured by eleven screws.
3Unhook the operating rod from the tailgate
latch. Also disconnect the lock switch and
solenoid multi-plugs.4Remove the three bolts which secure the
tailgate latch. Remove the latch.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Open the tailgate and support it with a piece
of wood.
2Release the strut from its mountings by
raising the spring clips with a small
screwdriver, then pulling the strut off the ball-
stands. Do not raise the clips more than 4 mm
(0.16 in) if the strut is to be re-used.
3Do not attempt to dismantle a strut, and
dispose of it safely. It contains gas under
pressure.
4To refit a strut, position it over the ball-
studs. Push on each end in turn until it snaps
home.
1Open the fuel filler flap. Remove the key.
2Apply pressure to the lock barrel at the key
slot, using the thumb of one hand. With the
other hand insert a screwdriver into the cut-
out in the filler flap to release the lock barrel
retaining spring. As the spring is released,
thumb pressure will eject the lock barrel into
the petrol tank (see illustration).
3To refit, push the lock barrel into the flap
until the retaining spring clicks home.
Front door
1Open the door and remove the screws
which secure the front and rear edges of the
trim panel (see illustration).
2Remove the two screws from under the
covers on the door pocket. Unclip and remove
the pocket.
3On models with electrically-operated
windows and mirrors, prise out and disconnect
the window and mirror switches. The window
switch multi-plugs on the driver’s side are
22Door interior trim panel -
removal and refitting
21Fuel filler lock barrel -
removal and refitting
20Tailgate strut - removal and
refitting
19Tailgate latch assembly -
removal and refitting
18Boot lid lock barrel - removal
and refitting
17Tailgate lock barrel - removal
and refitting
16Door weatherstrip - removal
and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•7
12
17.5 Operating rod (arrowed) connected to
tailgate lock lever18.4 Boot lid lock retaining bolts (arrowed)
- Saloon models
21.2 Removing the fuel filler flap lock barrel
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colour-coded: the blue plug is outermost. On
models with manually-operated windows,
remove the window winder handle, which is
secured by a single screw (see illustration).
4Remove the two screws located under the
arm-rest. One of these screws will be
accessible through the window switch
aperture (on higher level trim models) when
applicable (see illustrations).
5Remove the door interior handle surround,
which is retained by a single screw (see
illustration).
6Remove the triangular trim panel which
covers the door mirror mountings. This trim
panel is secured by a single screw concealed
under a cover (see illustration).
7Pull the trim panel away from the door at the
top to free the push-in clips, then lift it to free it
from the lower mountings. A certain amount ofjerking and thumping may be necessary to
release the clips and mountings.
8To gain access to the components within
the door it will be necessary to peel back the
foam rubber sheet. This sheet is secured by a
bead of powerful adhesive around its edge,
and some of the door hardware may be riveted
through it. To remove the sheet from around a
riveted fitting, carefully cut it free with a sharp
knife, then glue it back in place afterwards
(see illustrations).
9Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Rear door
10Operations are similar to those just
described for the front door. Note that the
interior handle surround is secured by two
screws, one of which is accessible after
removing the ashtray.
1Remove the door interior trim panel as
described in the previous Section. Peel back
the foam rubber sheet.
2Remove the door weather strip.
Front door
3Raise and support the window. Undo the
two screws which secure the glass to the
regulator mechanism and lower the glass into
the door.
4Remove the three screws (one front, two
rear) which secure the window channels (see
illustration).
23Door window glass - removal
and refitting
12•8Bodywork and fittings
22.1 Three screws (arrowed) secure the
rear edge of the front door trim panel
22.6 Removing the mirror mounting trim
screw22.5 Removing the door handle surround
screw
22.8a Peeling back the rubber sheet22.8b Front door with rubber sheet peeled
back
22.4b Access to the screw is through the
window switch aperture
22.3 Prise the cap off the window winder
handle to expose the screw22.4a The two armrest screws (arrowed) -
low level trim
23.4 One of the front door window channel
screws (A)
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