1985 FORD GRANADA ECO mode

Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Air cleaner filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Air conditioner condenser check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Air conditioner refrigerant charge check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Automatic choke check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Automatic transmission brake band adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Automatic transmission selector lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Auxiliary drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Battery terminal check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Brake pipe and hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Brake system seal and hose renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Camshaft drivebelt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Crankcase ventilation vent valve renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Driveshaft check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Engine coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Engine inlet manifold security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Engine valve clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Final drive oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Front and rear brake pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Hinge and lock check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Hot starting check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Idle mixture check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Idle speed check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Idle speed linkage clean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Ignition system component check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Manual gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Oil filler cap check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Roadwheel security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See end of Chapter
Steering and suspension security check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Tyre checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Underbody inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are
the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the manufacturer
for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak
condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these
procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because
it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.
If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or drivenfrequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more
frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.
When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-
authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory
warranty.
1•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty Contents
1
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
m mCheck the engine oil level (Section 3).
m mCheck the engine coolant level (Section 3).
m mCheck the brake fluid level (Section 3).
m mCheck the screen washer fluid level (Section 3).
m mVisually examine the tyres for tread depth, and wear or
damage (Section 4).
m mCheck and if necessary adjust the tyre pressures
(Section 4).
m mCheck and if necessary top-up the battery electrolyte
level - where applicable (Section 6).
m mCheck the operation of the horn, all lights, and the
wipers and washers (Sections 5 and 7).
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or
6 months – whichever comes sooner
m mRenew engine oil and filter (Section 8)
m mCheck brake pads for wear (front and rear) (Section 9)
m mCheck tightness of wheel nuts (Section 13)
m mCheck idle speed (1.8 litre only) (Section 15)
m mCheck idle mixture (not fuel-injection models) - at first
6000 miles only (Section 16)
m mClean oil filler cap (Section 14)
m mInspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for fluid
leaks or other signs of damage (Section 10)
m mCheck function and condition of seat belts (Section 11)
m mCheck operation of brake fluid level warning indicator
(Section 9)
m mCheck condition and security of exhaust system
(Section 12).
Ford Granada maintenance schedule
procarmanuals.com

1•2
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months – whichever comes sooner
m mCheck operation of latches, check straps and locks; lubricate if
necessary (Section 19)
m mCheck condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt(s); adjust or
renew as necessary (Section 21)
m mCheck tightness of battery terminals, clean and neutralise
corrosion if necessary (Section 22)
m mCheck engine valve clearances (Section 23) m
mCheck tightness of inlet manifold bolts (V6 only) (Section 24) m
mRenew spark plugs (Section 20) m
mClean air conditioning condenser fins (when applicable)
(Section 25)
m mCheck air conditioning refrigerant charge (when applicable)
(Section 26)
m mCheck manual gearbox oil level (Section 18) m
mCheck final drive oil level (Section 27) m
mLubricate automatic transmission selector/kickdown linkage
(Section 28)
m mCheck security and condition of steering and suspension
components, gaiters and boots (Section 29)
m mCheck condition and security of driveshaft joints (Section 30) m
mInspect underbody and panels for corrosion or other damage
(Section 31)
m mInspect brake pipes and hoses (Section 32) m
mClean idle speed control linkage at throttle (when applicable)
(Section 33)
m mRoad test and check operation of ABS (Section 34)m
mCheck automatic transmission fluid level (engine hot)
(Section 17)
m mCheck engine for satisfactory hot starting (Section 37)m
mCheck that automatic choke is fully off with engine hot (not fuel-
injection models) (Section 36)
m mCheck power steering fluid level (when applicable) (Section 35)
Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or
2 years - whichever comes sooner
m
mRenew air cleaner element (Section 38) m
mClean and inspect distributor cap, rotor arm, HT leads and coil
tower (Section 39)
m mAdjust automatic transmission brake bands (Section 40)m
mRenew fuel filter (fuel-injection models only) (Section 41) m
mRenew crankcase ventilation vent valve (carburettor models)
(Section 42)
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or
3 years - whichever comes sooner
m
mRenew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if necessary
(Section 43)
m mRenew brake hydraulic fluid (Section 44) m
mRenew camshaft drivebelt on SOHC models - recommended as
a precautionary measure (Section 45)
Every 2 years - regardless of mileage
m
mRenew coolant (Section 46)
Lubricants and fluidsComponent or systemLubricant type/specification
1 EngineMultigrade engine oil, viscosity range
SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50 to API SG/CD
or better
2 Cooling systemSoft water/antifreeze to Ford spec.
SSM 97B9103-A or SDM-M97B49-A
3 Manual transmission:
N9Semi-synthetic gear oil to Ford
spec. ESD M2C175-A (80 EP)
MT75Gear oil to Ford spec. ESD-
M2C186-A
4 Automatic transmissionATF to Ford spec. SQM-2C9010-A
(TQ Dexron II)
5 Final driveGear oil SAE 90EP to APIGL5
6 Brake hydraulic systemHydraulic fluid to Ford spec.
SAM- 6C9103-A
7 Power steeringATFto Ford spec. SQM-2C9010-A
(TQDexron II)
Maintenance Schedule
procarmanuals.com

to release any pressure. When pressure has
been released, carry on unscrewing the cap
and remove it.
9Top-up to the MAX mark with the specified
coolant (see illustration).In an emergency
plain water is better than nothing, but
remember that it is diluting the proper coolant.
Do not add cold water to an overheated
engine whilst it is still hot.
10Refit the expansion tank cap securely
when the level is correct. With a sealed type
cooling system like this, the addition of
coolant should only be necessary at very
infrequent intervals. If frequent topping-up is
required, it is likely there is a leak in the
system. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint
faces for any sign of staining or actual
wetness, and rectify as necessary. If no leaks
can be found, it is advisable to have the
pressure cap and the entire system pressure-
tested by a dealer or suitably-equipped
garage, as this will often show up a small leak
not previously apparent.
Brake fluid
Be sure to use only the specified brake
hydraulic fluid, since mixing different types of
fluid can cause damage to the system. See
“Lubricants, fluids and capacities”at the
beginning of this Chapter. When adding fluid,
it is a good idea to inspect the reservoir for
contamination. The system should be drained
and refilled if deposits, dirt particles or
contamination are seen in the fluid.
11Check the brake fluid level as follows.
12With the vehicle parked on level ground
and the ignition switched off, pump the brake
pedal at least 20 times or until the pedal feels
hard.
13Open the bonnet. Switch on the ignition:
the hydraulic unit pump will be heard running.
Wait until the pump stops, then switch off the
ignition.
14The fluid level in the reservoir should now
be between the MAX and MIN marks. If
topping-up is necessary, unplug the electrical
connectors from the cap, then unscrew and
remove it (see illustration).Catch the
hydraulic fluid which will drip off the level
sensor with a piece of rag.
15Top-up with fresh brake fluid of the
specified type (see illustration).Do not
overfill. Refit and reconnect the reservoir cap
immediately.16The fluid level in the reservoir will drop
slightly as the brake pads wear down during
normal operation. If the reservoir requires
repeated replenishment to maintain the proper
level, this is an indication of a hydraulic leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.
Washer fluid
17When topping-up the windscreen or rear
screen washer fluid reservoir, a screenwash
additive should be added in the quantities
recommended on the bottle.
1On later models tyres may have tread wear
safety bands, which will appear when the
tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm.
Otherwise, tread wear can be monitored with a
simple, inexpensive device known as a tread
depth indicator gauge (see illustration).
2Wheels and tyres should give no real
problems in use, provided that a close eye is
kept on them with regard to excessive wear or
damage. To this end, the following points
should be noted.
3Ensure that the tyre pressures are checked
regularly and maintained correctly (see
illustration). Checking should be carried out
with the tyres cold, not immediately after the
vehicle has been in use. If the pressures are
checked with the tyres hot, an apparently-high
reading will be obtained, owing to heat
expansion. Under no circumstancesshould
an attempt be made to reduce the pressures
to the quoted cold reading in this instance, or
effective under-inflation will result.
4Note any abnormal tread wear (see
illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such
as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on
one side than the other, are indications of front
wheel alignment and/or balance problems. If
any of these conditions are noted, they should
be rectified as soon as possible.
5Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing,
and the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause excessive wear, not to
mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due
to heat build-up.
4Tyre checks
1•7
1
Weekly checks
3.14 Removing the brake fluid reservoir cap3.15 Topping up the brake fluid reservoir
4.1 Checking the tyre tread depth4.3 Checking tyre pressure
3.9 Topping up the cooling system
Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and damage
painted surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling and
pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it absorbs
moisture from the air. Excess moisture can
cause a dangerous loss of braking
effectiveness.If any brake fluid gets onto
paintwork, wash it off
immediately with clean water.
procarmanuals.com

1Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front and rear of the car and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking”).
2For a quick check, the front brake disc pads
can be inspected without removing the front
wheels, using a mirror and a torch through the
aperture in the rear face of the caliper. If any
one pad is worn down to the minimum
specified, all four pads (on both front wheels)
must be renewed.
3It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in
order to inspect the rear pads. The pads can
be viewed through the top of the caliper after
removing the spring clip. If any one pad is
worn down to the minimum specified, all four
pads (on both rear wheels) must be renewed.
4For a comprehensive check, the brake pads
should be removed and cleaned. The
operation of the caliper can then also be
checked, and the condition of the brake discs
can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to
Chapter 10 for further information.
5At the same interval, check the function of
the brake fluid level warning light. Chock the
wheels, release the handbrake and switch on
the ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid
reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the
warning light: it should come on as the level
sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the
cap.
6On completion, refit the wheels and lower
the car to the ground.
1Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that
over a period of time some very slight seepage
from these areas is to be expected but what
you are really looking for is any indication of a
serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew
the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to
the appropriate Chapter(s) in this manual.
2Similarly, check the transmission for oil
leaks, and investigate and rectify and
problems found.
3Check the security and condition of all the
engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all
cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in
good condition. Clips which are broken or
missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
pipes or wiring which could cause more
serious problems in the future.
4Carefully check the condition of all coolant,
fuel and brake hoses. Renew any hose which
is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will
show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay
close attention to the hose clips that secure
the hoses to the system components. Hoseclips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting
in leaks. If wire type hose clips are used, it
may be a good idea to replace them with
screw-type clips.
5With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank
and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other
damage. The connection between the filler neck
and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a
rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due
to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber.
6Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal
pipes. If any damage or deterioration is
discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the
necessary repair work has been carried out.
Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe.
7Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay
particular attention to the vent pipes and
hoses which often loop up around the filler
neck and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew
damaged sections as necessary.
8From within the engine compartment, check
the security of all fuel hose attachments and
pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and
vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
9Where applicable, check the condition of
the oil cooler hoses and pipes.
10Check the condition of all exposed wiring
harnesses.
11Also check the engine and transmission
components for signs of fluid leaks.
Periodically check the belts for fraying or
other damage. If evident, renew the belt.
If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a
damp cloth using a little detergent only.
Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and
if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure
that the original sequence of fitting of washers,
bushes and anchor plates is retained.With the vehicle raised on a hoist or
supported on axle stands (see “Jacking”),
check the exhaust system for signs of leaks,
corrosion or damage and check the rubber
mountings for condition and security. Where
damage or corrosion are evident, renew the
system complete or in sections, as applicable,
using the information given in Chapter 4.
With the wheels on the ground, slacken
each wheel nut by a quarter turn, then
retighten it immediately to the specified
torque.
Remove and clean the oil filler cap of any
sludge build-up using paraffin.
Inspect the vent hose for blockage or
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up
of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
cause oil leaks.
An accurate tachometer (rev. counter) will
be needed to adjust the idle speed. The
engine must be at operating temperature, the
air cleaner element must be clean and the
vacuum hoses fitted, and the engine valve
clearances must be correct. The ignition
system must also be in good condition.
Connect the tachometer to the engine as
instructed by the manufacturers. Start the
engine and allow it to idle. Read the speed
from the tachometer and compare it with the
value in the Specifications of Chapter 4
(Pierburg 2V carburettor).
If adjustment is necessary, turn the idle
speed adjustment screw. Turn the screw
clockwise to increase the speed, and anti-
clockwise to decrease the speed (see
illustration).
1.8 litre engine
1An exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) or other
proprietary device will be needed to adjust the
idle mixture.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the air cleaner element must be
clean and the vacuum hoses fitted, and the
16Idle mixture check -
carburettor models only
15Idle speed check - 1.8 litre
SOHC
14Oil filler cap check
13Roadwheel security check
12Exhaust system check
11Seat belt check10Fluid leak check
9Front and rear brake pad
check
1•10Every 6000 miles or 6 months
15.3 Idle adjustment screws - Pierburg 2V
carburettor
A Idle speedB Idle mixture
procarmanuals.com

1Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the
hinges and locks with a light machine oil.
2Lightly lubricate the bonnet release
mechanism and exposed sections of inner
cable with a smear of grease.
3Check the security and operation of all
hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them
where required. Where applicable, check the
operation of the central locking system.
4Check the condition and operation of the
tailgate struts, renewing them if either is
leaking or is no longer able to support the
tailgate securely when raised.
SOHC and V6 engines
1The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine.
2Make sure that the ignition is switched off
before inspecting the HT leads to see if they
carry their cylinder numbers - if not, number
each lead using sticky tape or paint.
3Pull the HT lead connectors off the plugs.
Pull on the connectors, not on the leads.
4Blow away any dirt from around the spark
plug recesses in the cylinder head(s).
5Unscrew and remove the plugs, using a
proprietary plug spanner or a spark plug
socket, extension and ratchet.
6The condition of the plugs will tell much
about the overall condition of the engine. If the
insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and
white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a
weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug
transfers heat away from the electrode slowly,
a cold plug transfers heat away quickly).
7If the tip and insulator nose are covered with
hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
8If the insulator nose is covered with light tan
to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is
correct, and it is likely that the engine is in
good condition.
9Apply a smear of anti-seize compound to
the threads of the new plugs. Make sure that
theinsulators are clean and that the screwed
HT lead adapters are tight. Pay particular
attention to the plug seating surfaces on OHC
engines, since these plugs have no sealing
washers (“taper seat” type) and any dirt will
cause a bad seal.
10Screw each plug into its hole by hand. If a
plug is reluctant to go in, do not force it with a
spanner, but unscrew it and try again. If the
plug is cross-threaded, it is the cylinder head
which will be damaged.11Final tightening of the spark plugs should
ideally be carried out using a torque wrench.
The tightening torques are given in the
Specifications. If a torque wrench is not
available, tighten the plugs beyond the point
where they contact the head as follows:
OHC (taper seat plugs) - One-sixteenth of a
turn maximum
V6 (plugs with washers) - One-quarter of a
turn maximum
12If the taper seat type of plug is
overtightened, the sealing faces will bite
together and removal will be very difficult.
13Refit the HT leads to the plugs, paying
attention to the cylinder numbers. Push each
connector firmly onto its plug.
14Run the engine to verify that the HT leads
have been refitted correctly.
DOHC engines
15Proceed as described above whilst noting
the following points.
a)Remove the air cleaner as described in
Chapter 4.
b)The minimal length of number 3 HT lead
makes removal from the spark plug
difficult. It is advisable to remove this lead
from the distributor prior to removing it
from the spark plug.
c)The spark plugs are deeply recessed in
the cylinder head and it will be necessary
to use a spark plug socket with a long
extension bar. If possible, use a spark plug
socket with a rubber grip inside as this will
hold onto the spark plug once loosened
and will enable the spark plugs to be
withdrawn and refitted more easily.
SOHC and all V6 engines
1All of these engines have one or two
drivebelts which drive the water pump and
alternator from the crankshaft pulley. When
power steering is fitted, the same belts drive
the steering pump. The air conditioning
compressor, when fitted, is driven
independently.
2Periodically inspect the drivebelt(s) for
fraying, cracks, glazing or other damage. Turn
the engine so that the full length of the belt(s)
can be viewed. Renew belts which are in poor
condition. When twin drivebelts are fitted, both
must be renewed together, even if only one is
damaged.
3Check the tension of the drivebelt(s) by
pressing firmly with the fingers in the middle of
the longest belt run (engine stopped). Tension
is correct when the belt can be deflected by
10 mm (0.4 in) under firm finger pressure (see
illustration).
4Renewal and adjustment procedures for
models with power steering are given in
Chapter 11. For other models proceed as
follows.
5Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6On models with air conditioning, remove the
compressor drivebelt.
7Slacken the alternator pivot and adjusting
bolts. Swing the alternator towards the engine
and slip the belt(s) off the pulleys.
8Fit the new belt(s) over the pulleys. Move
the alternator away from the engine until the
belt tension is correct, then tighten the
alternator adjusting strap and pivot bolts. If it
is necessary to lever against the alternator to
achieve the correct tension, only do so using a
wooden or plastic lever(seeillustration).
9Refit and tension the air conditioning
compressor drivebelt, when applicable.
10Reconnect the battery. If a new drivebelt
has been fitted, run the engine for a few
minutes, then stop it and recheck the tension.
11Check the tension of new belts again after
a few hundred miles.
21Auxiliary drivebelt check
20Spark plug renewal
19Hinge and lock check and
lubrication
1•12Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
21.3 Checking drivebelt tension
It is very often difficult to insert spark
plugs into their holes without cross-
threading them. To avoid this
possibility, fit a short length of 5/16-
inch internal diameter rubber hose over
the end of the spark plug. The flexible
hose acts as a universal joint to help
align the plug with the plug hole.
Should the plug begin to cross-thread,
the hose will slip on the spark plug,
preventing thread damage to the
aluminium cylinder head. Remove the
rubber hose, and tighten the plug to the
specified torque using the spark plug
socket and a torque wrench. Fit the
remaining spark plugs in the same
manner.
procarmanuals.com

DOHC engines
12On this engine, the coolant/alternator
drivebelt also drives the power steering pump
and (where applicable) the air conditioning
compressor. The drivebelt tension is set by an
automatic tensioner assembly.
13The condition of the drivebelt should be
checked as described above.
14An idea of the amount of wear which has
taken place on the belt can be gained from the
position of indicator mark (A) on the mounting
bracket in relation to the block (B) on the
tensioner arm (see illustration).When the belt
is new the mark should be aligned with the top
of the tensioner block. As the belt wears, the
tensioner arm moves and the block on the arm
will move slowly up in relation to the mark on
the bracket. When the mark aligns with the
bottom of the tensioner arm block the belt can
be regarded as worn and should be replaced
(see illustration).
15To renew the belt, turn the automatic
tensioner arm clockwise, using a 17 mm
socket and a wrench on the boss in the centre
of the pulley, and slide the belt from the
pulleys, then slowly release the tensioner.
16To fit a new belt, rotate the tensioner
clockwise as during removal, then slide the
belt over the pulleys. With the belt correctly
located, slowly release the tensioner; the
tensioner will automatically set the correct
drivebelt tension.
Caution:Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read through the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this
manual.
1The battery fitted as original equipment is
“maintenance-free”, and requires no
maintenance apart from having the case kept
clean, and the terminals clean and tight.
2To clean the battery terminals disconnect
them, after having first removed the cover
(later models) -negative earth first. Use a wire
brush or abrasive paper to clean the terminals.
Bad corrosion should be treated with a
solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied with
an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution get
inside the battery.3Coat the battery terminals with petroleum
jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound
before reconnecting them. Reconnect and
tighten the positive (live) lead first, followed by
the negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten.
4Keep the top of the battery clean and dry.
Periodically inspect the battery tray for
corrosion, and make good as necessary.
5Further information on the battery, charging
and jump-starting can be found in Chapter 5,
and in the preliminary Sections of this manual.
SOHC engines
1Valve clearances are checked with the
engine cold.
2On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner.
3On fuel-injection models, remove the
bracing strap which connects the inlet
manifold to the right-hand side of the engine.
4On all models, identify the HT leads and
disconnect them from the spark plugs. Unclip
the leads from the rocker cover.
5Although not essential, it will make the
engine easier to turn if the spark plugs are
removed.
6Remove the ten bolts which secure the
rocker cover, noting the location of the
different shapes of reinforcing plates. Remove
the cover and gasket.7One of the cam lobes will be seen to be
pointing upwards. Measure the clearance
between the base of this cam and the cam
follower, finding the thickness of feeler blade
which gives a firm sliding fit(see illustration).
8The desired valve clearances are given in
the Specifications. Note that the clearances
for inlet and exhaust valves are different.
Numbering from the front (sprocket) end of the
camshaft, the exhaust valves are 1, 3, 5 and 7,
and the inlet valves 2, 4, 6 and 8.
9If adjustment is necessary, slacken the ball-
pin locknut and screw the ball-pin up or down
until the clearance is correct. Hold the ball-pin
stationary and tighten the locknut(see
illustration).Recheck the clearance after
tightening the locknut in case the ball-pin has
moved.
10Turn the engine to bring another cam lobe
to the vertical position and repeat the above
procedure. Carry on until all eight valves have
been checked.
11Access to some of the ball-pins is made
difficult by the carburettor or fuel-injection inlet
manifold. To avoid having to remove the
offending components, double cranked
spanners or cutaway socket spanners can be
used (see illustration).
12When adjustment is complete, refit the
rocker cover using a new gasket. Make sure
that the dovetail sections of the gasket fit
together correctly.
13Fit the rocker cover bolts and reinforcing
plates. Tighten the bolts as described in
Chapter 2A Section 44, paragraph 11.
23Engine valve clearance check
22Battery terminal check
1•13
1
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
21.14a Water pump/alternator drivebelt
tensioner indicator position - DOHC engine
A Indicator markB Block
21.14b Water pump/alternator drivebelt
tensioner wear indicator location (arrowed)
- DOHC engine21.8 Tightening the alternator strap bolt
23.7 Measuring a valve clearance - SOHC
engine23.9 Adjusting a valve clearance - SOHC
engine
procarmanuals.com

distributor cap, making a sketch if necessary
so that they can be reconnected to the same
terminals. Remove the leads.
6On V6 models, remove the distributor
screening can (see illustration).
7Release the two clips or screws which
secure the distributor cap. Remove the cap
(see illustration).
8Note that if the distributor cap is secured by
clips, the engine must not be cranked with the
cap removed. This is because it is possible for
a spring clip to foul the rotating parts of the
distributor and cause damage.
9Remove the rotor arm. It may simply pull off,
or it may be secured by two screws (see
illustration). The rotor arm tips may be coated
with silicone grease - if so, do not rub it off.
10Clean the HT leads and distributor capwith a dry cloth. Scrape any corrosion or other
deposits from the connectors and terminals.
Also clean the coil tower.
11Renew the HT leads if they are cracked,
burnt or otherwise damaged. If a multi-meter
is available, measure the resistance of the
leads. The desired value is given in the
Specifications of Chapter 5.
12Renew the distributor cap if it is cracked
or badly burnt inside, or if there is evidence of
“tracking” (black lines marking the path of HT
leakage). If there is a carbon brush at the
centre of the cap, make sure that it moves
freely, and is not excessively worn.
13Clean the metal track of the rotor arm with
abrasive paper (but see paragraph 9 first).
Renew the arm if it is cracked or badly burnt.
14Commence reassembly by fitting the rotorarm to the distributor. It is positively located by
a notch or shaped pegs so it cannot be fitted
the wrong way round. Tighten the securing
screws, when applicable.
15Refit the distributor cap and secure it with
the clips or screws.
16On V6 models, refit the screening can.
17Reconnect the HT leads to the distributor
cap, making sure that they are correctly fitted.
The No 1 connector on the cap is marked (see
illustration).
18On V6 models, refit the screening can lid.
19Reconnect the HT leads to the spark plugs
and coil.
20Reconnect the battery and run the engine.
DOHC engines
21Unclip the lower section of the distributor
shield from the upper section, then unscrew
the two securing nuts, and withdraw the upper
section of the shield from the studs on the
upper timing chain cover (see illustrations).
22Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs by pulling on the connectors, not the
leads. Similarly, disconnect the HT lead from
the coil, and release it from the clip on the
timing chain cover.
23Using a suitable Torx key or socket,
unscrew the two distributor cap securing
screws, then lift off the cap.
24The rotor arm is a push-fit on the end of
the rotor shaft (see illustration).
25If desired, the rotor housing can be pulled
from the timing chain cover.
26Inspect all components as described in
1•18Every 24 000 miles or 2 years
39.6 Removing a distributor screening can
- V6 engine39.7 Removing a distributor cap39.3 Removing a distributor can screening
lid - V6 engine
39.21b . . . and the upper section of the
distributor shield - DOHC engine39.24 Removing the distributor cap and
rotor arm - DOHC engine39.21a Unclipping the lower section . . .
39.9 Removing a rotor arm39.17 HT lead identification at distributor
cap - V6 engine
procarmanuals.com

the previous sub Section.
27Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the rotor arm is pushed fully home on the
rotor shaft. Make sure that the HT leads are
fitted to their correct cylinders. Note that the
rotor arm will only fit in one position.
Note: A brake band torque wrench - Ford tool
No 17-005, or equivalent - will be required for
this job.
1Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
2Disconnect the downshift (kickdown) cable
from the transmission when so equipped.
3Release the locknuts on the two brake band
adjuster screws. Back off each adjuster screw
a couple of turns (see illustration).
4Using the torque wrench, tighten one
adjusting screw to 13 Nm (10 lbf ft). Remove
the torque wrench and back off the adjuster
screw exactly two full turns from this position,
then hold the screw and tighten the locknut.
5Repeat the operations on the other adjuster.
6Reconnect the downshift cable, when
applicable, then lower the vehicle.
OHC engines
1Fitted to all fuel-injected models, the filter
can be renewed as follows. Disconnect the
battery negative lead.
2Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
3Place a drain pan under the fuel filter. Take
adequate fire precautions.
4Wipe clean the area around the filter inlet
and outlet unions, then disconnect them (see
illustration). Caution: Fuel under pressure
may spray out as the unions are slackened.
5Slacken the filter clamp bolt and withdraw
the filter from the clamp. Dispose of the filter
safely, remember it is full of fuel.
6Fit the new filter into the clamp,observing
the arrows on the filter indicating the direction
of fuel flow. If there is a plastic band or sleeve
on the filter, position the clamp over the sleeve
to prevent chafing. Tighten the clamp bolt.
7Refit the inlet and outlet unions, using new
sealing washers. Tighten the union bolts.
8Reconnect the battery. Have an assistantswitch the ignition on and off a few times to
pressurise the system; watch the filter for
leakage as this is done.
9Lower the vehicle on completion.
V6 engines
10This operation is essentially the same as
described above, noting that the fuel system
should first be depressurised, see Chapter 4,
Section 28.
11Once the new filter has been installed,
switch the ignition on and off five times,
without cranking the engine, to pressurise the
system then check the filter unions for leaks.
Renew the crankcase ventilation vent valve
by pulling it from the oil separator and
loosening the hose clip (see illustration). Fit
the new valve, tighten the clip, and insert it
into the oil separator grommet.
Inspect the vent hose for blockage or
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up
of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
cause oil leaks.
42Crankcase ventilation vent
valve renewal
41Fuel filter renewal
40Automatic transmission
brake band adjustment
1•19
1
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years
41.4 Fuel filter outlet union (arrowed) -
OHC engine42.1 Pulling the vent valve from the oil
separator - SOHC engine40.3 Brake band adjuster screw (A) and
locknut (B)
If in doubt as to the condition of any of the
brake system seals and hoses, then renew
defective items whilst referring to the relevant
Sections of Chapter 10.
1An assistant andbleeding equipment will be
needed. A considerable quantity of hydraulic
fluid will be required - probably about 2 litres
(nearly half a gallon).2Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
support the front of the vehicle andremove
the front wheels.
3Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap.
4Open both front bleed screws one full turn.
Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing
the free end of each tube in a jar.
5Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from
the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke
to allow the master cylinder to refill.
6When air emerges from both bleed screws,
stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper
without disconnecting it and remove the
inboard brake pad.
7Depress the caliper piston, using a purpose-
made tool or a blunt item such as a tyre lever,
to force more fluid out of the caliper. Hold thepiston depressed and have the assistant
pump the pedal until air emerges from the
bleed screw again.
8Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand
caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so
that the piston is not accidentally ejected.
9Repeat the purging operation on the right-
hand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the
bleed screw yet.
10Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid.
Position the bleed jar for the right-hand caliper
at least 300 mm (1 foot) above the level of the
bleed screw.
11Have the assistant pump the brake pedal
until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the
bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the
end of a downstroke.
44Brake hydraulic fluid renewal
43Brake hydraulic system seal
and hose renewal
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years
procarmanuals.com