1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE boot

TROUBLESHOOTING 11-13
NOTE: When one shock fails, ft is recommended to replace front or rear
units as pairs.
3. Vehicle leans excessively in turns
a. Check for worn or leaking shock absorbers or strut assemblies and replace as neces-
sary.
b. Check for missing, damaged, or worn stabilizer links or bushings, and replace or in-
stall as necessary.
4. Vehicle ride quality seems excessively ha&h
a. Check for seized shock absorbers or strut assemblies and replace as necessary.
b. Check for excessively high tire pressures and adjust pressures to vehicle recommen-
dations.
5. Vehicle seems low or leans to one side
a. Check for a damaged, broken or weak spring. Replace defective parts and check for a
needed alignment.
b. Check for seized shock absorbers or strut assemblies and replace as necessary.
c. Check for worn or leaking shock absorbers or strut assemblies and replace as neces-
sary.
Noises 1. Vehicle makes a clicking noises when driven
a. Check the noise to see if it varies with road speed. Verify if the noise is present when
coasting or with steering or throttle input. If the clicking noise frequency changes with
road speed and is not affected by steering or throttle input, check the tire treads for a
stone, piece of glass, nail or another hard object imbedded into the tire or tire tread.
Stones rarely cause a tire puncture and are easily removed. Other objects may create
an air leak when removed. Consider having these objects removed immediately at a
facility equipped to repair tire punctures.
b. If the clicking noise varies with throttle input and steering, check for a worn Constant
Velocity (CV-joint) joint, universal (U- joint) or flex joint.
2. Vehicle makes a clunking or knocking noise over bumps
a. A clunking noise over bumps is most often caused by excessive movement or clear-
ance in a suspension component. Check the suspension for soft, cracked, damaged or
worn bushings. Replace the bushings and check the vehicle’s alignment.
b. Check for loose suspension mounting bolts. Check the tightness on subframe bolts,
pivot bolts and suspension mounting bolts, and torque to specification.
c. Check the vehicle for a loose wheel bearing. Some wheel bearings can be adjusted for
looseness, while others must be replaced if loose. Adjust or replace the bearings as
recommended by the manufacturer.
d. Check the door latch adjustment. If the door is slightly loose, or the latch adjustment
is not centered, the door assembly may create noises over bumps and rough surfaces.
Properly adjust the door latches to secure the door. 3. Vehicle makes a low pitched rumbling noise when driven
a. A low pitched rumbling noise is usually caused by a drive train related bearing and is
most often associated with a wheel bearing which has been damaged or worn. The
damage can be caused by excessive brake temperatures or physical contact with a pot
hole or curb. Sometimes the noise will vary when turning. Left hand turns increase the
load on the vehicle’s right side, and right turns load the left side. A failed front wheel
bearing may also cause a slight steering wheel vibration when turning. A bearing
which exhibits noise must be replaced.
b. Check the tire condition and balance. An internally damaged tire may cause failure
symptoms similar to failed suspension parts. For diagnostic purposes, try a known
good set of tires and replace defective tires.
4. Vehicle makes a squeaking noise over bumps
a. Check the vehicle’s ball joints for wear, damaged or leaking boots. Replace a ball joint
if it is loose, the boot is damaged and leaking, or the ball joint is binding. When re-
placing suspension parts, check the vehicle for alignment.
b. Check for seized or deteriorated bushings. Replace bushings that are worn or dam-
aged and check the vehicle for alignment.
c. Check for the presence of sway bar or stabilizer bar bushings which wrap around the
bar. Inspect the condition of the bushings and replace if worn or damaged. Remove
the bushing bracket and apply a thin layer of suspension grease to the area where the
bushings wrap around the bar and reinstall the bushing brackets. ~
5. Vehicle vibrates when driven
a. Check the road surface. Roads which have rough or uneven surfaces may cause un-
usual vi brations.
b. Check the tire condition and balance. An internally damaged tire may cause failure
symptoms similar to failed suspension parts. For diagnostic purposes, try a known
good set of tires and replace defective tires immediately.
c. Check for a worn Constant Velocity (CV-joint) joint, universal (U- joint) or flex joint
and replace if loose, damaged or binding.
d. Check for a loose, bent, or out-of-balance axle or drive shaft. Replace damaged or
failed components.
NOTE: Diagnosing failures related to wheels, tires, steering and the sus-
pension system can often times be accomplished with a careful and thor-
ough test drive. Bearing noises are isolated by noting whether the noises
or symptoms vary when turning left or right, or occur while driving a
straight line. During a teft hand turn, the vehicle’s weight shifts to the
right, placing more force on the right side bearings, such that if a right side
wheel bearing is worn or damaged, the noise or vibration should increase
during light-to-heavy acceleration. Conversely, on right hand turns, the ve-
hicle tends to lean to the left, loading the left side bearings.
Knocking noises in the suspension when the vehicle is driven over rough roads, rail-
road tracks and speed bumps indicate worn suspension components such as bushings,
ball joints or tie rod ends, or a worn steering system.
1. One headlight only works on high or low beam
a. Check for battery voltage at headlight electrical connector. If battery voltage is present,
replace the headlight assembly or bulb if available separately. If battery voltage is not
present, refer to the headlight wiring diagram to troubleshoot.
2. Headlight does not work on high or low beam
a. Check for battery voltage and ground at headlight electrical connector. If battery volt-
age is present, check the headlight connector ground terminal for a proper ground. If
battery voltage and ground are present at the headlight connector, replace the head-
light assembly or bulb if available separately. If battery voltage or ground is not pre-
sent, refer to the headlight wiring diagram to troubleshoot.
b. Check the headlight switch operation. Replace the switch if the switch is defective or
ooerates intermittentlv. 1. Tail light, running light or side marker light inoperative
a. Check for battery voltage and ground at light’s electrical connector. If battery voltage is
present, check the bulb socket and electrical connector ground terminal for a proper
ground. If battery voltage and ground are present at the light connector, but not in the
socket, clean the socket and the ground terminal connector. If battery voltage and
ground are present in the bulb socket, replace the bulb. If battery voltage or ground is
not present, refer to the wiring diagram to troubleshoot for an open circuit.
b. Check the light switch operation and replace if necessary.
2. Tall light, running light or side marker light works intermittently
a. Check the bulb for a damaged filament, and replace if damaged.
b. Check the bulb and bulb socket for corrosion, and clean or replace the bulb and
socket.
w 3. Headlight(s) very dim
a. Check for battery voltage and ground at headlight electrical connector. If battery volt-
age is present, trace the ground circuit for the headlamp electrical connector, then
clean and repair as necessary. If the voltage at the headlight electrical connector is
significantly less than the voltage at the battery, refer to the headlight wiring diagram
to troubleshoot and locate the voltage drop. c. Check for loose, damaged or corroded wires and electrical terminals, and repair as
necessary.
d. Check the light switch operation and replace if necessary.
3. Tail light, running light or side marker light very dim
a. Check the bulb and bulb socket for corrosion and clean or replace the bulb and
socket.

11-22 MASTER INDEX
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-3
BRAKE MASTERCYLINDER I-41
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS 1-41
LEVELCHECK I-41
BRAKE OPERATING SYSTEM B-2
BRAKEPADS 9-8
INSPECTION 9-11
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-8
'
BRAKESHOES 9-16
ADJUSTMENTS 9-18
INSPECTION 9-16
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-17
BRAKESHOES 9-23
ADJUSTMENT 9-24
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-23
BUY OR REBUILD? 3-57
CABLE(S) 9-20
ADJUSTMENT 9-22
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-20
CAMSHAFT POSITIONSENSOR 4-14
OPERATION 4-14
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 4-14
TESTING 4-14
CAMSHAFT, BEARINGSAND LIFTERS 3-48
INSPECTION 3-53
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-48
CENTERBEARING 7-15
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-15
CHARGING SYSTEM 2-8
CHASSISGREASING l-43
CAR WASHING 1-43
INTERIOR CLEANING l-44
WAXING l-43
CIRCUIT BREAKERS 6-28
CIRCUIT PROTECTION 6-27
CLEARING CODES 4-27
CLEARING CODES 4-28
WITHASCANTOOL 4-28
WITHOUTASCANTOOL 4-28
CLUTCH CABLE 7-9
ADJUSTMENT 7-9
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 7-9
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER 7-9
REMOVALANDINSTALLATION 7-9
CLUTCHSLAVECYLINDER 7-9
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING 7-9
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 7-9
CLUTCH 7-7
CLUTCHMASTERCYLINDER l-42
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-42
LEVELCHECK l-42
COMBINATION SWITCH 8-29
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 8-29
COMPONENTLOCATIONS 4-16
CONTROL CABLES 6-12
ADJUSTMENT 6-12
CONTROL PANEL 6-12
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 6-12
COOLINGSYSTEM l-39
DRAIN &REFILL I-40
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-39
FLUSHINGANDCLEANING THESYST
EM-41
LEVELCHECK l-39
TESTING FOR LEAKS l-39
CRANKCASEVENTILATIONSYSTEM 4-2
COMPONENTTESTING 4-2
OPERATION 4-2
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 4-2
CRANKSHAFTDAMPER 3-36 REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 3-36
CRANKSHAFTANDCAMSHAFTPOSITIONSENSORS 2-7
CRANKSHAFTANDCAMSHAFTPOSITIONSENSORS 2-5
CRANKSHAFTPOSlTlONSENSOR/CRANKANGLESENSOR 4-14
OPERATION 4-14
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 4-15
TESTING 4-15
CRUISE CONTROL 6-13
CV-BOOTS I-21
INSPECTION I-21
CYLINDER HEAD 3-23
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-23
CYLINDER HEAD 3-60
DETERMINIG ENGINE CONDITION 3-57
COMPRESSION TEST 3-57
OIL PRESSURETEST 3-57
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING 9-24
DIAGNOSISANDTESTING 2-2
DIAGNOSISANDTESTING 2-5
DIAGNOSTICTROUBLECODES 4-27
DIAGNOSTICTROUBLECODES 4-28
FLASH OUTCODELIST 4-32
DIMMER SWITCH 6-19
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-19
DISC BRAKES 9-8
DISCONNECTING THE CABLES 6-7
DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION SYSTEM 2-2 f
DISTRIBUTOR 2-4
INSTALLATION 2-4
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-4
DISTRIBUTORCAPANDROTOR l-25
INSPECTION l-25
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION l-25
DISTRIBUTORLESS IGNITION SYSTEM 2-5
DO'S l-4
DON'TS l-6
DOORGLASSANDREGULATOR lo-10
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION IO-IO
DOOR HANDLE/LATCHASSEMBLY IO-IO
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-IO
DOORLOCKCYLINDER IO-IO
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-IO
DOOR PANELS IO-7
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-7
DOORS IO-2
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION IO-2
DRlVEAXLE(AWD GALANTONLY) l-10
DRIVELINE 7-14
DRIVEN DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE 7-7
DRIVESHAFTAND U-JOINTS 7-14
DRIVESHAFT BALANCING 7-15
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-14
U-JOINTREPLACEMENT 7-14
DRUM BRAKES 9-15
ELECTRIC WINDOW MOTOR IO-IO
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION IO-IO
ELECTRICALCOMPONENTS 6-2
CONNECTORS 6-4
GROUND 6-3
LOAD 6-3
POWERSOURCE 6-2
PROTECTIVE DEVICES 6-3
SWITCHES&RELAYS 6-3
WIRING & HARNESSES 6-3
ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROLS 4-7
EMISSION CONTROLS 4-2
ENGINE BLOCK 3-65
ASSEMBLY 3-67
DISASSEMBLY 3-65