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{WARNING:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery
gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this,
and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if
you need more light.
Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not
need to add water to the battery installed in your
new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be
sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low,
add water to take care of that first. If you don't,
explosive gas could be present.
Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do
not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your
eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water
and get medical help immediately.
{WARNING:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you
badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts
once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a
shock. The vehicles could be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some
basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go
to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if
the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a
heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you
will get a short that would damage the battery and
maybe other parts too. And do not connect the
negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on
the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to thepositive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with
the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal
if the vehicle has one.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a
remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a
remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not let the other end touch anything until the
next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable
does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the
dead battery.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle
with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote
negative (−) ground terminal marked GND (−).
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs
service. Notice:
If the jumper cables are connected or
removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may
occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would
not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always
connect and remove the jumper cables in the
correct order, making sure that the cables do not
touch each other or other metal.
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND)
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal
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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles:1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle.
5. Return the positive (+) terminal cover to its original position.
Headlamp Aiming
The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming
system. The aim has been preset at the factory and
should need no further adjustment.
However, if the vehicle is damaged in a crash, the
headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be
necessary.
If oncoming vehicles flash their high beams at you, this
may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your
dealer/retailer for service if the headlamps need to be
re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the
headlamps as described.
The vehicle should:
.Be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from
a light colored wall.
.Have all four tires on a level surface which is level
all the way to the wall.
.Be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall or other
flat surface.
.Not have any snow, ice, or mud on it.
.Be fully assembled and all other work stopped
while headlamp aiming is being performed.
.Normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one
person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver seat.
.Have all tires properly inflated.
.Have the spare tire is in its original location in the
vehicle.
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Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle's low-beam
headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly
aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly.
To adjust the vertical aim:1. Open the hood. See Hood Release
on page 6‑15for more information.
2. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low‐beam
headlamp.
3. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the low‐beam headlamp. Record the
distance.
4. At the wall measure from the ground upward (A) tothe recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it.
5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall the width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in
Step 4.
Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam
cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may
cause excessive heat build-up which may cause
damage to the headlamp.
6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the
headlamp not being adjusted. Do not place directly
on the headlamp. This allows only the beam of
light from the headlamp being adjusted to be seen
on the flat surface.
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Driver Side Shown
7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly.
The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm
hex socket.
8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it
clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the
angle of the beam.
The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at
the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line.
9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal
tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the
correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B)
shows the incorrect headlamp aim.
10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite headlamp.
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Bulb Replacement
For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see
Replacement Bulbs on page 6‑53.
For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this
section, contact your dealer/retailer.
Halogen Bulbs
{WARNING:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and
can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or
others could be injured. Be sure to read and
follow the instructions on the bulb package.
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and
Parking Lamps
A. Headlamp
B. Turn Signal/Parking Lamp
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To replace the headlamp, turn signal, or parking
lamp bulb:1. Turn the wheel to access the wheel well.
2. Remove the fasteners located on the wheel liner. To access the headlamp and the turn
signal/parking lamp bulbs. 3. Reach in behind the wheel well liner and locate the
bulb to be changed.
4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it straight out of the lamp assembly.
5. Pull the old bulb straight out of the bulb socket.
6. Push the new bulb straight into the bulb socket until it clicks.
7. Push the bulb socket straight into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise to lock it into place.
8. Reinstall the wheel well liner using fasteners.
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Center High-Mounted Stoplamp
(CHMSL)
To replace the center high-mounted stoplamp bulb:1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 3‑13.
2. Remove the center trim located near the top of the
liftgate.
3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it straight out of the lamps assembly.
4. Pull the old bulb straight out of the bulb socket.
5. Push the new bulb straight into the bulb socketuntil it clicks.
6. Push the bulb socket straight into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise to lock it into place.
7. Reinstall the center trim.
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