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Exhaust System Removal
Caution: Wait at least 30 minutes between the engine
being turned off and the actual removal of any component
of the exhaust system, as to avoid personnel injury due to
hot components.
1. Main muffler assembly removal
(a) First use a No. 13 wrench (open), sleeve, or ratchet
spanner to remove the connecting spring bolt between
the front flange of the main muffler assembly and the
rear flange of the sub-muffler. Then take out the gasket
between the flanges.
(b) Remove the two rubber hangers on the main muffler.
(c) Take down the main muffler assembly.
Caution: The sealing ring between the front flange of
the main muffler assembly and the rear flange of the
sub-muffler is used only for sealing. If reused, it may
cause large deformations and result in a poor sealing
effect. Accordingly, it is suggested not to use a sealing
ring repeatedly. If necessary, only one repetition should
be allowed.
Warning: While performing this kind of maintenance
work, a person should be present to support the main
muffler to avoid injury in case the muffler falls.
2. Sub-muffler assembly removal
(a) Use a No. 14 wrench (open), sleeve, or ratchet wrench
to remove the connecting bolt between the front flange
of the sub-muffler assembly and the rear flange of the
catalyst assembly.
(b) Remove the support of the sub-muffler plate bracket.
(c) Remove the two two-hole rubber hangers between the
sub-muffler and the frame.
(d) Take down the sub-muffler assembly.
Caution: The sealing ring between the front flange of
the sub-muffler and the rear flange of the catalyst as-
sembly is used only for sealing. If reused, it may cause
large deformations and result in a poor sealing effect.
Accordingly, it is suggested not to use a sealing ring
repeatedly. If necessary, only one repetition should be
allowed.
Warning: While performing this kind of maintenance
work, a person should be present to support the sub-
muffler to avoid injury in case the muffler falls.
3. Rear catalytic assembly removal
(a) Remove the connecting spring bolt between the front
flange of the sub-muffler assembly and the rear flange
of the rear catalytic assembly. Then take out the sealing
ring between the flanges.
(b) Take off the rear catalytic assembly.
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Clutch Operational System
Areas of Importance ...........................................................37
Troubleshooting ..................................................................37
Clutch Operational System .................................................38
Components .....................................................................38
Clutch Master Cylinder Removal ......................................38
Clutch Master Cylinder Installation ...................................40
Clutch Pedal Removal ......................................................40
Clutch Pedal Installation ...................................................40
Clutch Pedal Examination and Adjustment.......................41
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Clutch Operational System
Components
Clutch Master Cylinder Removal
1. Use a combination plier to loosen the steel band elastic
hoop, and to remove the clutch feed connecting hose.
Caution: Release the brake fluid in the reservoir before
disconnecting the hose.
Steel band elastic hoop
Clutch feed connecting hose
Reservoir
Steel band elastic hoop
Clutch feed connecting hose
Clutch discharge pipe
Clutch master cylinder
Limit adjusting bolt
Return spring
Lock nut
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Clutch Master Cylinder Installation
Installation of clutch system is reverse to its removal, but
since the whole clutch system uses hydraulic assistance,
make sure to air bleed it after the installation is completed.
Detailed steps as follows:
(a) Plug one end of the long transparent connection hose
(about 0.5 m long) into the bottom of bleed screw, and
the other end into a fixed container.
(b) Loosen the bleed screw via the open end of the M8,
meanwhile ask the assistant to step on the clutch pedal
repeatedly until no air bubbles can be seen in the hose.
R e m a r k : R e s i d u a l a i r i n t h e c l u t c h s y s t e m h a s b e e n
completely exhausted.
(c) Lastly, lock the bleed screw.
Caution: Refilling the brake fluid reservoir should be
performed while air bleeding the clutch.
Clutch Pedal Removal
1. Remove the battery's negative cable.
2. Remove the glove box at the left of the dashboard.
3. Remove the cotter pin at the U-joint of the clutch
master cylinder, and separate the center pin and the
pedal lever.
4. Remove the clutch pedal bracket from the cowl.
5. Remove the clutch pedal.
(a) Move the clutch pedal to the maximum stroke position.
(b) Take down the return spring.
(c) Remove the bolts and nuts.
(d) Take the pedal lever down from the pedal bracket.
Clutch Pedal Installation
1. Install the clutch pedal.
(a) Install the return spring.
(b) Install the clutch pedal lever.
(c) Install the bolts and nuts.
Tightening torque: 30 N·m
(d) Put the pedal lever at the maximum stroke position and
connect it with the spring, in order to set the pedal to its
initial position.
2. Install the clutch pedal onto the 2 studs of the clutch
master cylinder.
Use a M13 wrench to tighten the clutch pedal brackets with
two M8 nuts.
Tightening torque: 23±3 N·m
3. Install the clutch master cylinder push rod with the U-
joint.
(a) Coat the contact areas between the center pin and the
U-joint pedal connector with multi-functional grease.
(b) In succession, join the U-joint (pedal connector) and
the clutch pedal lever with a cotter pin.
Caution: Insert the center pin into the pedal lever from
the left side of vehicle.
(c) Install the cotter pin onto the center pin.
4. Check and adjust the clutch pedal.
5. Connect the negative cable of the battery.
Bleed screw
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Transmission
037A Transmission’s Overall External Schematics ............43
Main Technical Parameters ...............................................43
Transmission's Proper Use and Care .................................44
Technical Specifications for Transmission Installation
and Adjustment ...................................................................44
Areas of Importance ...........................................................45
Troubleshooting ..................................................................46
037A Transmission Structural Schematics .........................47
Clutch ........................................................................\
.........48
Gear Shift Fork and Fork Shaft...........................................49
Transmission Case .............................................................50
Disassembling the Input Shaft Subassembly .....................56
Disassembling the Output Shaft Subassembly ..................60
Disassembling the Shift Cover Subassembly .....................64
Disassembling the Differential Subassembly .....................68
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Transmission's Proper Use and Care
1. Transmission's proper operation
1.1 Shift the gear gently, not excessively.
1.2 Do not start with high speed.
1.3 To avoid premature abrasion of the gear shift fork, do not rest your hand on the \
gear lever while driving.
2. Model number of the lubricant to be used:
GL-4 80W-90 (For China domestic model)
GL-4 75W-90 (For alpine region model)
GL-5 140 (For high-temperature region model)
Caution: Please only use the lubricant with model numbers specified by t\
he Great Wall Motor Co., Ltd.
Do not mix lubricants with different model numbers. Only fill with clean lubricant.
3. Areas of importance for new vehicle usage:
3.1 Before using a new vehicle, be sure to check the transmission and all exposed connectors and fastening
pieces, so as to avoid failure due to faulty installation or loose conne\
ctions.
3.2 Since the new vehicle is still in the run-in period, the transmission's lubricant should be replaced after 5000 km
distance.
4. Transmission three-level maintenance:
4.1 Transmission level-one maintenance: During the first level of maintenance, the liquid level of the lubricant
should be checked to ensure that it is up to the oil-filling mouth. Add more if insufficient. Excessive low
oil level can lead to ineffective lubrication, as well as burning of the bearings and gears. Excessive high oil
level, however, can overheat the transmission or cause oil to leak. In addition, during the first level of main-
tenance, the breather plug should be checked and cleaned. If the breather plug is clogged, internal pressure
will build up and oil will leak from the transmission.
4.2 Transmission level-two maintenance: The transmission's lubricant should be replaced the first time that the
vehicle undergoes the second level of maintenance. Clean the transmission with kerosene. The quality of the
lubricant should be inspected during the future second level of maintenance practises. The lubricant should
be replaced if diluted, gummy, or dirty.
4.3 Transmission level-three maintenance: During the third level of maintenance, it should be removed for in-
spection, cleaning, and oil changing.
Technical Specifications for Transmission Installation and Adjustment
Inspect the axial play (δ) between the synchronizer ring and the gear shaft
Gear (δ1) (δ2) (δ3) (δ4) (δ5)
Standard axial play (mm)0.7-1.70.7-1.70.7-1.70.7-1.70.7-1.7
Gear (δ1) (δ2) (δ3) (δ4) (δ5)
Standard axial play (mm)0.1-0.40.1-0.60.1-0.40.1-0.60.1-0.55
Check the axial play (δ) between each gear
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Troubleshooting
Common problemsPossible causesSolving methods
Difficult gear
engagement
Not applying clutchUse correct driving methods
Insufficient clutch separation Inspection & adjustment
Serious abrasion of the synchronizer ringReplace component
Positioning spring is too hardReplace component
Noise is too loud or
abnormal
Oil level is too lowFill oil to the specified level
Lubricant is of poor qualityReplace the specified oil
Untimely oil changesReplace oil and damaged part
Improper gear axial position and clearanceInspect and adjust
Damaged bearingReplace component
Gear has a burr or has been knockedRepair or replace gear
Oil leakageToo much oil is added, oil level too high.Fill the oil level to the specified position.
Bolt loose or missingReassemble and screw in according to regu-
lations.
Breather plug failsReplace
Damaged sealReplace
Synchronizer is damagedExcessive gear shifting force Replace synchronizer
Not applying clutchUse correct driving methods
Synchronizer's spring expan-
sion ring is damagedReplace
Gear disengagementControl mechanism malfunctionInspect and adjust
Retaining spring or steel ball missingAdditional assembly
Retaining spring malfunctionReplace
Fork groove of the gear sleeve is worn outReplace
Shifting fork is worn out.Replace
Bearing and gear are burntOil level is too lowReplace part and fill oil
Lubricant is of poor quality.Replace part and lubricant
Untimely oil replacement causes
the oil to be too dirtyReplace part and lubricant
Mixed use of different oils
or use of additivesReplace part and lubricant
Difficulty shifting gearsSynchronizer spring malfunctionReplace
The internal groove of the syn-
chronizer ring is worn outReplace
The synchronizer ring is seized
into the conical surfaceReplace
Deformed shifting fork or
shifting fork shaftReplace
Shifting fork is worn outReplace
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Clutch
Components
Release bearing
Release fork
Cable bracket
Bolts with washer
Bolts with washer
Magnetic bodyDifferential assembly
Output shaft assembly
Input shaft assembly
T oil seal
Tapered roller bearings
Guide nozzle
Clutch housing
Release fork dust cover
Cable bracket
×5
Release fork support nail
29.4
11.3
11.3
: Specified torqueN·m