2006 MERCEDES-BENZ SPRINTER light

REAR AXLE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR AXLE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................12
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAIN AND FILL . . 13
REMOVAL.............................14
INSTALLATION.........................16
SPECIFICATIONS.......................18
SPECIAL TOOLS.......................19
SHAFT-AXLE SINGLE REAR WHEEL
REMOVAL-SINGLE REAR WHEEL..........23
INSTALLATION-SINGLE REAR WHEEL.......24
BEARING/SEAL-AXLE
REMOVAL.............................24
INSTALLATION.........................26
SHAFT-AXLE DUAL REAR WHEELS
REMOVAL-DUAL REAR WHEEL............27
INSTALLATION-DUAL REAR WHEEL........28
BEARING/SEAL-AXLE HUB
REMOVAL.............................28
INSTALLATION.........................29DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL.............................31
DISASSEMBLY
DISASSEMBLY-SINGLE REAR WHEEL.....32
DISASSEMBLY-DUAL REAR WHEEL.......33
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY-SINGLE REAR WHEEL........34
ASSEMBLY-DUAL REAR WHEEL..........36
INSTALLATION.........................37
BEARINGS-DIFFERENTIAL CASE
REMOVAL.............................38
INSTALLATION.........................38
SEAL-PINION
REMOVAL.............................39
INSTALLATION.........................40
GEAR-PINION/RING
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................42
REAR AXLE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
NOTE: Axle seals, axle bearings, pinion seals and
differential cover are the only serviceble compo-
nents. If differential is damaged/noisy the axle must
be replaced.
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth
contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing
not having the proper offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not causenoise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snap-
ping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearingshave a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Differential bearings usually produce a low pitch
noise. Differential bearing noise is similar to pinion
bearing noise. The pitch of differential bearing noise
is also constant and varies only with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearingsproduce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
3 - 12 REAR AXLEVA

INSTALLATION
(1) Clean sealing surface of bearing cap.
(2) Install axle shaft seal into bearing cover (1)
with Installer 9278 (2) (Fig. 15).
NOTE: Install flush to a max. 3 mm (0.12 in.) deep
inside the bearing cover.
(3) Check roller bearing (1), and replace if neces-
sary.
NOTE: Thoroughly grease roller bearings prior to
installation with Mopar High Temp Light Bearing
Grease.
(4) Install bearing cover with axle shaft seal,new
gasket and dust shield on the axle shaft.
(5) Install tapered roller bearings (1) and race (2)
on the axle shaft (Fig. 16).(6) Installnewlocking ring (1) on axle shaft (2).
NOTE: The flat side of the locking ring must point
towards the nut (Fig. 17). The locking ring is fitted
to ensure the pressing is done over the inner bear-
ing race only. The flat on the locking ring must be
aligned with the flat on the axle shaft otherwise the
axle shaft will be damaged.
(7) Place axle shaft (2) through the hole in Plate
9277 (3) and position the assembly in a press (1)
(Fig. 18).
(8) Press tapered roller bearing onto rear axle
shaft as far as the stop.
CAUTION: In order to avoid damaging the bearing,
the outer race must be turned while pressing on.
Fig. 15 SEAL INSTALLER
1 - INSTALLER
2 - BEARING COVER
Fig. 16 BEARINGS AND RACE
1 - BEARINGS
2 - RACE
Fig. 17 BEARING AND SHAFT
1 - LOCKING RING
2 - AXLE SHAFT
3 - BEARING
4 - DUST SHIELD
Fig. 18 PRESSING AXLE SHAFT
1 - PRESS
2 - AXLE SHAFT
3 - PLATE
3 - 26 REAR AXLEVA

DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove differential fill plug.
(2) Remove differential cover and drain fluid.
(3) Remove axle shafts.
(4) Mark bearing caps and housing for installation
reference.
(5) Remove differential bearing cap bolts.
(6) Mount Adapters 9317 (1) (Fig. 30) on differen-
tial housing (2).(7) Position Spreader W-129-B (2) on adapters (1)
(Fig. 31). Mount dial indicator on housing to measure
housing spread.
CAUTION: Never spread over 0.3 mm (0.011 in). If
the housing is over-spread, it could be distorted or
damaged.
(8) Remove differential (2) with bearings, cups (3)
and differential shims (Fig. 32).
(9) Mark bearings and shims for installation refer-
ence.
(10) Clean the housing cavity with flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.
NOTE: Do not use water, steam, kerosene or gaso-
line for cleaning.
Fig. 30 SPREADER ADAPTERS
1 - ADAPTERS
2 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
Fig. 31 SPREADER
1 - ADAPTERS
2 - SPREADER
Fig. 32 DIFFERENTIAL REMOVAL
1 - HOUSING
2 - DIFFERENTIAL
3 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARINGS
VAREAR AXLE 3 - 31

(6) Install pinion spacer on pinion shaft (Fig.
70).
(7) Installnewcollapsible preload spacer on pin-
ion shaft (Fig. 71) and install pinion gear into the
housing.(8) Install front pinion bearing into housing with
Installer 9548.
(9) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal and install seal with Installer 9276
(Fig. 72).
(10) Hold pinion flange with Flange Wrench
C-3281.
(11) Screw on thenewcollared nut.
(12) Tighten collar nut carefully to a torque to
rotate of 2.5-3 N´m (22-27 in. lbs.).
(13) Cut the collar of the tightened collared nut
(Fig. 73).
Fig. 69 REAR BEARING INSTALLATION
1 - PRESS
2 - INSTALLER
3 - DRIVE PINION GEAR
4 - REAR PINION BEARING
Fig. 70 SPACER
1 - SPACER
2 - PINION SHAFT
Fig. 71 COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
1 - COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
2 - SPACER
Fig. 72 PINION SEAL INSTALLER
1 - AXLE
2 - INSTALLER
VAREAR AXLE 3 - 43

(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
VABRAKES - BASE 5 - 3

As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfacesafter a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK / SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP / CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use approved brake fluid (Refer to LUBRICATION
& MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIP-
TION). Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container
at all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEVA

NOTE: The pressure gauge, connected at the ALB
controller must indicate the outlet pressure which
is assigned on the ALB plate to the rear axle load
determined.
NOTE: If the rear axle load determined is between
two figures indicated on the ALB plate, the outlet
pressure should be determined accordingly.
(8) If the pressure measured differs from the spec-
ification, adjust the ALB controller (Fig. 16).
(9) Loosen the brake pedal winch.
(10) Adjust the outlet pressure by turning the
adjusting nut (Fig. 16)To increase pressure -
tighten the adjusting nut. To reduce pressure -
loosen the adjusting nut.
(11) After adjustment reinstall the brake pedal
winch and recheck the pressures and readjust if
needed.
(12) Tighten the lock adjusting nut.
MASTER CYLINDER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER CYLIN-
DER / POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then holdfirm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 17).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
Fig. 16 ALB CONTROLLER ADJUSTER NUT
1 - ALB ADJUSTER NUT
2 - SPRING
Fig. 17 Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections
1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
VABRAKES - BASE 5 - 17

CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE
Clean the individual brake components, including
the support plate exterior, with a water dampened
cloth or with brake cleaner. Do not use any other
cleaning agents. Remove light rust and scale from
the brake shoe contact pads on the support plate
with fine sandpaper.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - (SRW)
NOTE: Preassemble the retracting spring with the
short hook eye from the inside together with the
adjuster wheel at the bottom. Fit the preassembled
park brake shoes on the brake carrier.
(1)Ensure that the cable lock moves easily
before installing shoes.Install the park brake
shoes.
(2) Install the lower retracting spring using special
tool 9280.
(3) Install the hold down springs using special tool
9281.
(4) Install the upper retracting spring using spe-
cial tool 9280.
(5) Install the adjuster.
(6) Install the front park brake cable to the pulley
unit.
(7) Install the disc brake rotor.
(8) Install the rear wheels.
(9) Adjust the parking brakes.(10) Lower the vehicle.
(11) Pump the brake pedal several times to check
the operation of the brakes before moving vehicle.
INSTALLATION - (DRW)
NOTE: Preassemble the retracting spring with the
short hook eye from the inside together with the
adjuster wheel at the bottom. Fit the preassembled
park brake shoes on the brake carrier.
(1)Ensure that the cable lock moves easily
before installing shoes.Install the park brake
shoes.
(2) Install the lower retracting spring.
(3) Install the pressure hold down springs by
depressing with your fingers and twisting to lock in
place.
(4) Install the upper retracting spring.
(5) Install the adjuster.
(6) Install the front park brake cable to the pulley
unit.
(7) Install the disc brake rotor.
(8) Install the rear wheel flange ring. Tighten to
200 N´m (148 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the rear wheels.
(10) Adjust the parking brakes.
(11) Lower the vehicle.
(12) Pump the brake pedal several times to check
the operation of the brakes before moving vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the rear wheels.
(3) Turn the adjusting wheel through the hole of
the wheel lug bolt until it is no longer possible to
rotate the rear wheel (Fig. 38).
(4) Loosen the adjusting wheel 3-4 teeth divisions
(Fig. 38).
Fig. 37 PARK BRAKE SHOES WITH DUAL REAR
WHEELS
1 - HOLD DOWN PIN
2 - PRESSURE SPRING
3 - ADJUSTER
4 - UPPER RETRACTING SPRING
5 - LOWER RETRACTING SPRING
6 - CABLE LOCK
7 - LOCKING PIN
8 - BRAKE CABLE
9 - PARK BRAKE SHOE
5 - 28 BRAKES - BASEVA