2006 INFINITI QX56 lock

POWER STEERING GEAR AND LINKAGEPS-17
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INSPECTION AFTER INSTALLATION
Check if steering wheel turns smoothly when it is turned several times fully to the left and right lock positions.
Disassembly and AssemblyEGS00124
CAUTION:

Secure steering gear assembly with a vise, using copper plates or something similar to prevent it
from being damaged. Do not grip cylinder with a vise.

Before performing disassembly, clean steering gear assembly with kerosene. Be careful not to
bring any kerosene into contact with the discharge and return port connectors.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove cylinder tubes from gear housing assembly.
2. Loosen lock nuts of outer sockets, and remove outer sockets.
3. Remove boot clamps of the small diameter side and the large diameter side, then remove boot.
CAUTION:
When removing boots, be careful not to damage inner socket and gear housing assembly. If they
are damaged, change them to avoid oil leaks.
4. Remove inner sockets.
1. Boot clamp 2. Inner socket3. Boot
4. Boot clamp 5. Outer socket6. Cylinder tubes
7. Gear housing assembly 8. Connector
BGIA0008E

POWER STEERING GEAR AND LINKAGEPS-19
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ASSEMBLY
1. Install the inner sockets.
2. Install the large-diameter side of the boots to the gear housing
assembly.
3. Install the small-diameter side of the boots to the groove of the inner sockets.
4. Install the boot clamps to the boots, as shown. CAUTION:
Do not reuse the large-diameter boot clamps.
5. Crimp the large-diameter boot clamps, using Tool.
6. Install the cylinder tubes to the gear housing assembly.
7. Install the lock nuts and outer sockets to the inner sockets.
SGIA0550E
AST139
Tool number : KV40107300 ( — )
RAC1133D

PS-20
POWER STEERING GEAR AND LINKAGE
Revision: November 20092006 QX56
8. Thread the outer sockets onto the inner sockets to the specified
length "L", then tighten the lock nuts to the specification. Refer to
PS-17, "
Disassembly and Assembly" . Reconfirm that the tie-rod
length "L" is within specification.
Maximum inner socket
length "L" : 115.2 mm (4.54 in)
SGIA0167E

RAX-8
REAR DRIVE SHAFT
Revision: November 20092006 QX56
5. Separate the drive shaft from the wheel hub and bearing assembly by lightly tapping the end with a suit-
able hammer and wood block. If it is difficult to separate, use a suitable puller.
6. Remove the drive shaft. CAUTION:
When removing the drive shaft, do not bend at an excessive angle to the drive shaft joint. Do not
excessively extend the slide joint.
INSPECTION AFTER REMOVAL

Move the joint up and down, left and right, and in the axial direc-
tion. Check for any rough movement or significant looseness.

Check the boot for cracks or other damage, and for any grease
leakage.

If necessary, disassemble the drive shaft, and repair as neces-
sary.
INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

Do not reuse the drive shaft inside flange bolts, discard after removal and use new bolts for installation.

Do not reuse the cotter pin, discard after removal and use a new cotter pin for installation.
Disassembly and AssemblyEDS001XQ
DISASSEMBLY
Final Drive Side
1. Mount the drive shaft in a vise.CAUTION:
When mounting the drive shaft in a vise, use copper or aluminum plates between the vise and the
drive shaft.
2. Remove the boot bands.
RAA0030D
1. Plug 2. Housing3. Snap ring
4. Ball cage, steel ball, liner race assembly 5. Stopper ring 6. Boot band
7. Boot 8. Shaft9. Circlip
10. Joint sub-assembly
SDIA1488E

RF-4
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
Revision: November 20092006 QX56
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSESPFP:00000
Work FlowEIS004VM
CUSTOMER INTERVIEW
Interview the customer if possible, to determine the conditions that exist when the noise occurs. Use the Diag-
nostic Worksheet during the interview to document the facts and conditions when the noise occurs and any
customer comments; refer to RF-8, "
Diagnostic Worksheet" . This information is necessary to duplicate the
conditions that exist when the noise occurs.

The customer may not be able to provide a detailed description or the location of the noise. Attempt to
obtain all the facts and conditions that exist when the noise occurs (or does not occur).

If there is more than one noise in the vehicle, be sure to diagnose and repair the noise that the customer
is concerned about. This can be accomplished by test driving the vehicle with the customer.

After identifying the type of noise, isolate the noise in terms of its characteristics. The noise characteristics
are provided so the customer, service adviser and technician are all speaking the same language when
defining the noise.

Squeak —(Like tennis shoes on a clean floor)
Squeak characteristics include the light contact/fast movement/brought on by road conditions. Hard sur-
faces = higher pitch noise/softer surfaces = lower pitch noises/edge to surface = chirping.

Creak —(Like walking on an old wooden floor)
Creak characteristics include firm contact/slow movement/twisting with a rotational movement/pitch
dependent on materials/often brought on by activity.

Rattle —(Like shaking a baby rattle)
Rattle characteristics include the fast repeated contact/vibration or similar movement/loose parts/missing
clip or fastener/incorrect clearance.

Knock —(Like a knock on a door)
Knock characteristics include hollow sounding/sometimes repeating/often brought on by driver action.

Tick —(Like a clock second hand)
Tick characteristics include gentle contacting of light materials/loose components/can be caused by driver
action or road conditions.

Thump —(Heavy, muffled knock noise)
Thump characteristics include softer knock/dead sound often drought on by activity.

Buzz —(Like a bumble bee)
Buzz characteristics include high frequency rattle/firm contact.

Often the degree of acceptable noise level will vary depending upon the person. A noise that you may
judge as acceptable may be irritating to the customer.

Weather conditions, especially humidity and temperature, may have a great effect on noise level.
SBT842

SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSESRF-5
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DUPLICATE THE NOISE AND TEST DRIVE
If possible, drive the vehicle with the customer until the noise is duplicated. Note any additional information on
the Diagnostic Worksheet regarding the conditions or location of the noise. This information can be used to
duplicate the same conditions when you confirm the repair.
If the noise can be duplicated easily during the test drive, to help identify the source of the noise, try to dupli-
cate the noise with the vehicle stopped by doing one or all of the following:
1) Close a door.
2) Tap or push/pull around the area where the noise appears to be coming from.
3) Rev the engine.
4) Use a floor jack to recreate vehicle "twist".
5) At idle, apply engine load (electrical load, half-clutch on M/T model, drive position on A/T model).
6) Raise the vehicle on a hoist and hit a tire with a rubber hammer.

Drive the vehicle and attempt to duplicate the conditions the customer states exist when the noise occurs.

If it is difficult to duplicate the noise, drive the vehicle slowly on an undulating or rough road to stress the
vehicle body.
CHECK RELATED SERVICE BULLETINS
After verifying the customer concern or symptom, check ASIST for Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) related
to that concern or symptom.
If a TSB relates to the symptom, follow the procedure to repair the noise.
LOCATE THE NOISE AND IDENTIFY THE ROOT CAUSE
1. Narrow down the noise to a general area. To help pinpoint the source of the noise, use a listening tool
(Chassis Ear: J-39570, Engine Ear: J-39565 and mechanic's stethoscope).
2. Narrow down the noise to a more specific area and identify the cause of the noise by:

Removing the components in the area that you suspect the noise is coming from.
Do not use too much force when removing clips and fasteners, otherwise clips and fastener can be broken
or lost during the repair, resulting in the creation of new noise.

Tapping or pushing/pulling the component that you suspect is causing the noise.
Do not tap or push/pull the component with excessive force, otherwise the noise will be eliminated only
temporarily.

Feeling for a vibration with your hand by touching the component(s) that you suspect is (are) causing the
noise.

Placing a piece of paper between components that you suspect are causing the noise.

Looking for loose components and contact marks.
Refer to RF-6, "
Generic Squeak and Rattle Troubleshooting" .
REPAIR THE CAUSE

If the cause is a loose component, tighten the component securely.

If the cause is insufficient clearance between components:
–Separate components by repositioning or loosening and retightening the component, if possible.
–Insulate components with a suitable insulator such as urethane pads, foam blocks, felt cloth tape or ure-
thane tape. A NISSAN Squeak and Rattle Kit (J-43980) is available through your authorized NISSAN
Parts Department.
CAUTION:
Do not use excessive force as many components are constructed of plastic and may be damaged.
Always check with the Parts Department for the latest parts information.
The following materials are contained in the NISSAN Squeak and Rattle Kit (J-43980). Each item can be
ordered separately as needed.
URETHANE PADS [1.5 mm (0.059 in) thick]
Insulates connectors, harness, etc.
76268-9E005: 100 ×135 mm (3.94 ×5.31 in)
76884-71L01: 60 ×85 mm (2.36 ×3.35 in)
76884-71L02: 15 ×25 mm (0.59 ×0.98 in)
INSULATOR (Foam blocks)
Insulates components from contact. Can be used to fill space behind a panel.
73982-9E000: 45 mm (1.77 in) thick, 50 ×50 mm (1.97 ×1.97 in)
73982-50Y00: 10 mm (0.39 in) thick, 50 ×50 mm (1.97 ×1.97 in)

RF-6
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
Revision: November 20092006 QX56
INSULATOR (Light foam block)
80845-71L00: 30 mm (1.18 in) thick, 30×50 mm (1.18 ×1.97 in)
FELT CLOTH TAPE
Used to insulate where movement does not occur. Ideal for instrument panel applications.
68370-4B000: 15 ×25 mm (0.59 ×0.98 in) pad/68239-13E00: 5 mm (0.20 in) wide tape roll.
The following materials, not found in the kit, can also be used to repair squeaks and rattles.
UHMW (TEFLON) TAPE
Insulates where slight movement is present. Ideal for instrument panel applications.
SILICONE GREASE
Used in place of UHMW tape that will be visible or not fit.
Note: Will only last a few months.
SILICONE SPRAY
Use when grease cannot be applied.
DUCT TAPE
Use to eliminate movement.
CONFIRM THE REPAIR
Confirm that the cause of a noise is repaired by test driving the vehicle. Operate the vehicle under the same
conditions as when the noise originally occurred. Refer to the notes on the Diagnostic Worksheet.
Generic Squeak and Rattle TroubleshootingEIS005Z6
Refer to Table of Contents for specific component removal and installation information.
INSTRUMENT PANEL
Most incidents are caused by contact and movement between:
1. The cluster lid A and instrument panel
2. Acrylic lens and combination meter housing
3. Instrument panel to front pillar garnish
4. Instrument panel to windshield
5. Instrument panel pins
6. Wiring harnesses behind the combination meter
7. A/C defroster duct and duct joint
These incidents can usually be located by tapping or moving the components to duplicate the noise or by
pressing on the components while driving to stop the noise. Most of these incidents can be repaired by apply-
ing felt cloth tape or silicone spray (in hard to reach areas). Urethane pads can be used to insulate wiring har-
ness.
CAUTION:
Do not use silicone spray to isolate a squeak or rattle. If you saturate the area with silicone, you will
not be able to recheck the repair.
CENTER CONSOLE
Components to pay attention to include:
1. Shifter assembly cover to finisher
2. A/C control unit and cluster lid C
3. Wiring harnesses behind audio and A/C control unit
The instrument panel repair and isolation procedures also apply to the center console.
DOORS
Pay attention to the:
1. Finisher and inner panel making a slapping noise
2. Inside handle escutcheon to door finisher
3. Wiring harnesses tapping
4. Door striker out of alignment causing a popping noise on starts and stops
Tapping or moving the components or pressing on them while driving to duplicate the conditions can isolate
many of these incidents. You can usually insulate the areas with felt cloth tape or insulator foam blocks from
the NISSAN Squeak and Rattle Kit (J-43980) to repair the noise.

SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSESRF-7
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TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid bumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. The trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sun visor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headliner and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
OVERHEAD CONSOLE (FRONT AND REAR)
Overhead console noises are often caused by the console panel clips not being engaged correctly. Most of
these incidents are repaired by pushing up on the console at the clip locations until the clips engage.
In addition look for:
1. Loose harness or harness connectors.
2. Front console map/reading lamp lens loose.
3. Loose screws at console attachment points.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component installed to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator installation pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.