2003 DODGE RAM suspension

and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that hasbecome covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

(2) Install the caliper adapter (Fig. 50) (Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(3) Install the caliper adapter bolts (Fig. 50) and
tighten the mounting bolts to 135 N´m (100 ft.lbs).
(4) Install the disc brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the tire and wheel assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(6) Lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - FRONT
(1) On models with all-wheel antilock system
(ABS), check condition of tone wheel on hub/bearing.
If teeth on wheel are damaged, hub/bearing assembly
will have to be replaced (tone wheel is not serviced
separately).
(2) Install the rotor onto the hub/bearing wheel
studs.
(3) Install the caliper adapter assembly,(Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION) and tighten
adapter bolts to:
(4) Install the wheel and tire assembly, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE) and lower the vehicle.
(5) Apply the brakes several times to seat brake
pads. Be sure to obtain firm pedal before moving
vehicle.
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(2) Remove the disc brake caliper (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the caliper adapter (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the rotor (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the axle shaft (Refer to 3 - DIFFER-
ENTIAL & DRIVELINE/REAR AXLE - 9 1/4/AXLE
SHAFTS - REMOVAL).
(6) Remove the park brake shoes (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the parking brake cable from the
brake lever.
(8) Remove the bolts attaching the support plate to
the axle and remove the support plate (Fig. 54).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install support plate on axle flange (Fig. 55).
Tighten attaching bolts to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install parking brake cable in the brake lever.
(3) Install the park brake shoes (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES - INSTALLA-
TION). (Fig. 55).
(4) Install axle shaft, (Refer to 3 - DIFFEREN-
TIAL & DRIVELINE/REAR AXLE - 9 1/4/AXLE
SHAFTS - INSTALLATION).
(5) Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES -
ADJUSTMENTS).
Fig. 52 FRONT ROTOR
1 - ROTOR
2 - HUB/BEARING
Fig. 53 8 LUG ROTOR ASSEMBLY
1 - SPRING
2 - SHOCK
3 - UPPER AND LOWER SUSPENSION ARMS
4 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
5 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER
6 - ROTOR
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 29
ROTORS (Continued)

(4) Install the cluster bezel onto the instrument
panel (Fig. 9).
(5) Connect the battery negative cable.
HEADLAMP UNIT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the push pins attaching the seal to the
fender.
(3) Remove the bolts attaching the headlamp unit
to the fender (Fig. 10).
(4) Remove the bulb sockets from the headlamp
unit
(5) Separate headlamp unit from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not touch the bulb glass with fingers
or other oily surfaces. Reduced bulb life will result.
(1) Install the bulb sockets for the front park/turn
signal and headlamp.
(2) Position headlamp unit in inner fender panel.
(3) Install the bolts attaching headlamp unit to the
fender (Fig. 10).
(4) Align the seal and install the push pins.
(5) Connect the battery negative cable.
ADJUSTMENTS
Headlamps can be aligned using the screen method
provided in this section. Alignment Tool C-4466-A or
equivalent can also be used. Refer to instructions
provided with the tool for proper procedures.
LAMP ALIGNMENT SCREEN PREPARATION
(1) Position vehicle on a level surface perpendicu-
lar to a flat wall 7.62 meters (25 ft) away from front
of headlamp lens (Fig. 11).
(2) If necessary, tape a line on the floor 7.62
meters (25 ft) away from and parallel to the wall.
(3) Up 1.27 meters (5 feet) from the floor, tape a
line on the wall at the centerline of the vehicle. Sight
along the centerline of the vehicle (from rear of vehi-
cle forward) to verify accuracy of the line placement.
(4) Rock vehicle side-to-side three times to allow
suspension to stabilize.
(5) Jounce front suspension three times by pushing
downward on front bumper and releasing.
(6) Measure the distance from the center of head-
lamp lens to the floor. Transfer measurement to the
alignment screen (with tape). Use this line for
up/down adjustment reference.
(7) Measure distance from the centerline of the
vehicle to the center of each headlamp being aligned.
Transfer measurements to screen (with tape) to each
side of vehicle centerline. Use these lines for left/
right adjustment reference.
VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP
ALIGNMENT
(1) Verify headlamp dimmer switch and high beam
indicator operation.
(2) Correct defective components that could hinder
proper headlamp alignment.
(3) Verify proper tire inflation.
(4) Clean headlamp lenses.
(5) Verify that luggage area is not heavily loaded.
(6) Fuel tank should be FULL. Add 2.94 kg (6.5
lbs.) of weight over the fuel tank for each estimated
gallon of missing fuel.
HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT
A properly aimed low beam headlamp will project
top edge of high intensity pattern on screen from 50
mm (2 in.) above to 50 mm (2 in.) below headlamp
centerline. The side-to-side outboard edge of high
intensity pattern should be from 50 mm (2 in.) left to
50 mm (2 in.) right of headlamp centerline (Fig. 11).
The preferred headlamp alignment is 1(down
for the up/down adjustment and 0 for the left/
right adjustment.The high beam pattern should be
correct when the low beams are aligned properly.
To adjust low beam headlamp, rotate alignment
screws to achieve the specified aim.
Fig. 10 HEADLAMP Ð TYPICAL
1 - SEAL
2 - PUSH PIN
3 - SCREW
4 - HEADLAMP UNIT
DRLAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR 8L - 15
HEADLAMP SWITCH (Continued)

DESCRIPTION - CIRCUIT FUNCTIONS
All circuits in the diagrams use an alpha/numeric
code to identify the wire and it's function. To identify
which circuit code applies to a system, refer to the
Circuit Identification Code Chart. This chart shows
the main circuits only and does not show the second-
ary codes that may apply to some models.
CIRCUIT IDENTIFICATION CODE CHART
CIRCUIT FUNCTION
A BATTERY FEED
B BRAKE CONTROLS
C CLIMATE CONTROLS
D DIAGNOSTIC CIRCUITS
E DIMMING ILLUMINATION
CIRCUITS
F FUSED CIRCUITS
G MONITORING CIRCUITS
(GAUGES)
H OPEN
I NOT USED
J OPEN
K POWERTRAIN CONTROL
MODULE
L EXTERIOR LIGHTING
M INTERIOR LIGHTING
N NOT USED
O NOT USED
P POWER OPTION (BATTERY
FEED)
Q POWER OPTIONS (IGNITION
FEED)
R PASSIVE RESTRAINT
S SUSPENSION/STEERING
T TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/
TRANSFER CASE
U OPEN
V SPEED CONTROL, WIPER/
WASHER
W OPEN
X AUDIO SYSTEMS
Y OPEN
Z GROUNDS
DESCRIPTION - SECTION IDENTIFICATION AND
INFORMATION
The wiring diagrams are grouped into individual
sections. If a component is most likely found in a par-
ticular group, it will be shown complete (all wires,
connectors, and pins) within that group. For exam-
ple, the Auto Shutdown Relay is most likely to be
found in Group 30, so it is shown there complete. It
can, however, be shown partially in another group if
it contains some associated wiring.
Splice diagrams in Section 8W-70 show the entire
splice and provide references to other sections the
splices serves. Section 8W-70 only contains splice dia-
grams that are not shown in their entirety some-
where else in the wiring diagrams.
Section 8W-80 shows each connector and the cir-
cuits involved with that connector. The connectors
are identified using the name/number on the dia-
gram pages.
WIRING SECTION CHART
GROUP TOPIC
8W-01 thru
8W-09General information and Diagram
Overview
8W-10 thru
8W-19Main Sources of Power and
Vehicle Grounding
8W-20 thru
8W-29Starting and Charging
8W-30 thru
8W-39Powertrain/Drivetrain Systems
8W-40 thru
8W-49Body Electrical items and A/C
8W-50 thru
8W-59Exterior Lighting, Wipers and
Trailer Tow
8W-60 thru
8W-69Power Accessories
8W-70 Splice Information
8W-80 Connector Pin Outs
8W-91 Connector, Ground and Splice
Locations
8W - 01 - 6 8W-01 WIRING DIAGRAM INFORMATIONDR
WIRING DIAGRAM INFORMATION (Continued)

CAUTION: Do not reuse damaged fasteners, quality
of repair would be suspect. Failure to use only pro-
duction fasteners or fasteners of equivalent hard-
ness can result in loosening or failure. Do not drill
any holes in the frame that are not specifically out-
lined in this or other, DaimlerChrysler procedure as
frame rail failure can result. When using heat to
straighten frame components do not exceed 566ÉC
(1050ÉF), metal fatigue can result.
NOTE: Procedures for 4X2 and 4X4 are common
except as noted in this procedure.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the front wheelhouse splash shield.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEEL-
HOUSE SPLASH SHIELD - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the bolts and position aside the wire
harness and grounds, if required.
(4) Remove the front bumper. (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/FRONT BUMPER
- REMOVAL)
(5) Loosen and lower the stabilizer bar mount and
bar. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/STABI-
LIZER BAR - REMOVAL)
(6) Remove the front cab mount bolt to the Front
End Sheet Metal (FESM) bracket. (Fig. 6)(7) Make a vertical mark on the inside and outside
face of the frame rail 112 mm (4.5 in.) from the for-
ward edge of the PLP hole in the sides of the rail.
(Fig. 8)
(8) Using a straightedge, connect the two lines on
the top and bottom of the rail.
(9) Using the service tip as a guide, re-check your
cut lines to ensure the service tip will fit when the
cut is made.
CAUTION: Do not use any flame or plasma cutting
equipment to cut the frame in this procedure. This
is due to the inaccurate nature of the cut-line and
the fact that the high temperatures achieved during
flame or plasma cutting will change the metal char-
acteristics and may weaken the frame and/or repair
location.
(10) Using a reciprocating saw or equivalent, care-
fully cut and remove the damaged frame rail tip.
(Fig. 7)
Fig. 6 REPLACEMENT FRAME TIP
1 - FRONT END SHEET METAL (FESM) BRACKET
2 - CAB INSULATOR
3 - RING-FILLET WELD/HOLE
4 - PRINCIPLE LOCATING POINT (PLP)
5 - WELD ROOT GAP 4 mm-6mm(0.16 in. - 0.24 in.)
6 - FRONT CAB MOUNT BOLT
7 - REPLACEMENT FRAME TIP
Fig. 7 FRAME CUT LOCATION
1 - REPAIR ROOT OPENING
2 - SERVICE SLEEVE
3 - PRINCIPLE LOCATING POINT (PLP)
4 - SUSPENSION BRACKETS
5 - FRAME
6 - FRAME CUTOFF LOCATION - 112 mm (4.5 in.)
7 - FRAME SERVICE TIP
DRFRAMES & BUMPERS 13 - 5
FRAME (Continued)

(9) Remove the bolts and remove the spare tire
winch. (Fig. 23)
(10) Position the wire harness forward of the work
area.
CAUTION: Do not use any flame or plasma cutting
equipment to cut the frame in this procedure. The
inaccurate and high temperatures achieved during
flame or plasma cutting will change the metal char-
acteristics and may weaken the frame and/or repair
location.
(11) Carefully remove the H-section welds using a
grinder or equivalent tool.
(12) Remove the H-section and clean any remain-
ing welds from the frame.
(13) Trial fit the replacement part.
(14) Remove all e-coat from within 25 mm (1.0 in.)
of the weld area.
(15) Using the appropriate measuring equipment,
position the replacement part and verify correct posi-
tioning in all three (X,Y, and Z) planes of space.(Refer to 13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME - SPEC-
IFICATIONS - FRAME DIMENSIONS)
CAUTION: Shield the surrounding area and compo-
nents from exposure to the welding spatter and
heat.
(16) Weld the replacement H-section into position.
The welding should be performed in a skip (stitch)
type method to minimize the heat buildup following
I-CAR or the American Welding Society welding pro-
cedures and utilizing the process specifications at the
end of this section. Refer to the Weld Process Speci-
fications welding schedule below.
(17) Dress the welded area and apply corrosion
resistant coatings inside and out.
(a) Inside the rail, inject a creeping wax based
rust inhibitor compound through the existing holes
in the frame ensuring 100% coverage including the
mating face between the frame and replacement
H-section.
(b) Apply a durable top coat to the outside of the
repair area.
(18) Position the wiring harness back.
(19) Install the spare tire winch and install the
bolts. (Fig. 23)
(20) Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(21) Install the spare tire winch tube and install
the clip. (Fig. 22)
(22) Install the spare tire.
(23) Lift the axle into position and install the rear
shackle bolts. (Fig. 21)
(24) Tighten the bolts to 163 N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
(25) Install the lower shock absorber bolts. (Refer
to 2 - SUSPENSION/REAR/SHOCK - INSTALLA-
TION)
(26) Install the trailer hitch. (Refer to 13 - FRAME
& BUMPERS/FRAME/TRAILER HITCH - INSTAL-
LATION)
(27) Install the cargo box. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/CARGO BOX - INSTALLATION)
(28) Reconnect the battery ground.
Fig. 23 SPARE TIRE WINCH ASSEMBLY
1 - SPARE TIRE WINCH ASSEMBLY
2 - BOLTS
3 - RETAINER BRACKET
4 - H-SECTION/SPARE WHEEL SUPPORT
13 - 16 FRAMES & BUMPERSDR
FRAME (Continued)

STEERING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
STEERING
DESCRIPTION..........................1
OPERATION............................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER
STEERING SYSTEM....................2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER
STEERING FLOW AND PRESSURE........4
SPECIAL TOOLS
STEERING...........................5COLUMN...............................6
GEAR - INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION..16
GEAR - LINK/COIL.......................19
LINKAGE - INDEPENDENT FRONT
SUSPENSION...........................31
LINKAGE - LINK/COIL....................33
PUMP.................................38
STEERING
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: MOPARTATF+4 is to be used in the
power steering system. No other power steering or
automatic transmission fluid is to be used in the
system. Damage may result to the power steering
pump and system if any other fluid is used, and do
not overfill.
Power steering systems consist of:
²Steering column
²Rack and pinion steering gear
²Belt driven hydraulic steering pump
²Pump pressure and return hoses
²Oil Cooler
OPERATION
The steering column shaft is attached to the gear
pinion. The rotation of the pinion moves the gear
rack from side-to-side. This lateral action of the rack
pushes and pulls the tie rods to change the direction
of the front wheels (Fig. 1).
Power assist is provided by an engine mounted
hydraulic pump which supplies hydraulic fluid pres-
sure to the steering gear.
Fig. 1 STEERING COMPONENTS
1 - POWER STEERING PUMP ASSEMBLY
2 - RESERVOIR
3 - HOSES
4 - TIE ROD ENDS
5 - MOUNTING BOLTS
6 - RACK & PINION
DRSTEERING 19 - 1

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER STEERING
SYSTEM
There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound evident at a
standstill parking. Or when the steering wheel is at the end of it's travel. Hiss is a high frequency noise similar
to that of a water tap being closed slowly. The noise is present in all valves that have a high velocity fluid passing
through an orifice. There is no relationship between this noise and steering performance.
STEERING NOISE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OBJECTIONAL HISS OR
WHISTLE1. Steering intermediate shaft to dash panel
seal.1. Check and repair seal at dash
panel.
2. Noisy valve in power steering gear. 2. Replace steering gear.
RATTLE OR CLUNK 1. Gear mounting bolts loose. 1. Tighten bolts to specification.
2. Loose or damaged suspension
components.2. Inspect and repair suspension.
3. Internal gear noise. 3. Replace steering gear.
4. Pressure hose in contact with other
components.4. Reposition hose.
5. Loose or damaged intermediate shaft or
column.5. Inspect and repair or replace.
CHIRP OR SQUEAL 1. Loose belt. 1. Adjust or replace.
WHINE OR GROWL 1. Low fluid level. 1. Fill to proper level.
2. Pressure hose in contact with other
components.2. Reposition hose.
3. Internal pump noise. 3. Replace pump.
4. Air in fluid 4. Check for lekas, Evacuate air
from P/S system.
SUCKING AIR SOUND 1. Loose return line clamp. 1. Replace clamp.
2. O-ring missing or damaged on hose
fitting.2. Replace o-ring.
3. Low fluid level. 3. Fill to proper level.
4. Air leak between pump and reservoir. 4. Repair as necessary.
5. Reservoir cap not installed correctly. 5. Install reservoir cap correctly.
SCRUBBING OR
KNOCKING1. Wrong tire size. 1. Verify tire size.
19 - 2 STEERINGDR
STEERING (Continued)