2003 DODGE RAM rough idle

²Idler sprocket assembly bushing and shaft for
excessive wear.
²Idler sprocket assembly spline joint. The joint
should be tight with no backlash or axial movement.
²Chain guides and tensioner arms. Replace these
parts if grooving in plastic face is more than 1 mm
(0.039 in.) deep. If plastic face is severely grooved or
melted, the tensioner lube jet may be clogged. The
tensioner should be replaced.
²secondary chain tensioner piston and ratcheting
device. Inspect for evidence of heavy contact between
tensioner piston and tensioner arm. If this condition
exist the tensioner and tensioner arm should be
replaced.
²Primary chain tensioner plastic faces. Replace as
required (Fig. 131).
INSTALLATION
(1) Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary
chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flushwith the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool,
release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against
spring force through access hole on side of tensioner.
While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet
device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner
body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on
front of tensioner. Slowly open vise to transfer piston
spring force to lock pin (Fig. 132).
(2) Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump
and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner
bracket. Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torxT
bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head.
Tighten torxTbolt to specified torque only.
(3) Install right side chain tensioner arm. Apply
MopartLock N, Seal to torxtbolt, tighten bolt to 17
N´m (150 in. lbs.).
Fig. 131 Timing Chain System
1 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND SECONDARY CHAIN
2 - SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER (LEFT AND RIGHT
SIDE NOT COMMON)
3 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM
4 - LEFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND SECONDARY CHAIN
5 - CHAIN GUIDE
6 - TWO PLATED LINKS ON RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN7 - PRIMARY CHAIN
8 - IDLER SPROCKET
9 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
10 - PRIMARY CHAIN TENSIONER
11 - TWO PLATED LINKS ON LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
12 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM
9 - 172 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)

NOTE: The silver bolts retain the guides to the cyl-
inder heads and the black bolts retain the guides to
the engine block.
(4) Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the
bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torxT
bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head.
Tighten torxTbolt to specified torque only.
(5) Install left side chain tensioner arm. Apply
MopartLock N, Seal to torxtbolt, tighten bolt to 17
N´m (150 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the
bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(7) Install both secondary chains onto the idler
sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary
chains to be visible through the two lower openings
on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once
the secondary timing chains are installed, position
special tool 8515 to hold chains in place for installa-
tion (Fig. 133).
(8) Align primary chain double plated links with
the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket.
Align the primary chain single plated link with the
timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket
(Fig. 131).(9) Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean
engine oil.
(10) Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and
idler sprocket as an assembly (Fig. 134). After guid-
ing both secondary chains through the block and cyl-
inder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap
or the equivalent, This will maintain tension on
chains to aid in installation.
NOTE: It will be necessary to slightly rotate cam-
shafts for sprocket installation.
(11) Align left camshaft sprocket ªLº dot to plated
link on chain.
(12) Align right camshaft sprocket ªRº dot to
plated link on chain.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft
sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over-
torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
(13) Remove Special Tool 8515, then attach both
sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts,
then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this
time.
(14) Verify that all plated links are aligned with
the marks on all sprockets and the ªV8º marks on
camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position (Fig.
131).
Fig. 132 Resetting Secondary Chain Tensioners
1 - VISE
2 - INSERT LOCK PIN
3 - RATCHET PAWL
4 - RATCHET
5 - PISTON
Fig. 133 Installing Secondary Timing Chains on
Idler Sprocket
1 - LOCK ARM
2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
3 - SECONDARY CHAINS RETAINING PINS (4)
4 - IDLER SPROCKET
5 - LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
6 - SPECIAL TOOL 8515
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 173
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)

(25) Install the oil fill housing.
(26) Install access plug in left cylinder head (Fig.
126).
(27) Install power steering pump (Refer to 19 -
STEERING/PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(28) Install radiator fan shroud.(29) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(30) Connect negative cable to battery.
IDLER SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the primary and secondary timing
chains and sprockets (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE
TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS -
REMOVAL) .
NOTE: To remove the idler shaft, it is necessary to
tap threads into the shaft, to install the removal
tool.
(2) Using a 12 mm X 1.75 tap, cut threads in the
idler shaft center bore.
(3) Cover the radiator core with a suitable cover.
CAUTION: Use care when removing the idler shaft,
Do not strike the radiator cooling fins with the slide
hammer.
(4) Using Special Tool 8517 Slide Hammer, remove
the idler shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean the idler shaft bore.
(2) Position the idler shaft in the bore.
NOTE: The two lubrication holes in the idler shaft
do not require any special alignment.
NOTE: Before using the retaining bolt to install the
idler shaft, coat the threads and the pilot on the
idler shaft, with clean engine oil.
(3) Using the primary idler sprocket retaining bolt
and washer, carefully draw the idler shaft into the
bore until fully seated.
(4) Coat the idler shaft with clean engine oil.
(5) Install the timing chains and sprockets (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/
CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION).
Fig. 136 Tightening Right Side Camshaft Sprocket
Bolt
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346
3 - LEFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
4 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
Fig. 137 Measuring Idler Gear End Play
1 - IDLER SPROCKET ASSEMBLY
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 175
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)

ENGINE - 5.7L
DESCRIPTION
The 5.7L engine (Fig. 1)(345 CID) eight-cylinder
engine is a 90É V-Type lightweight, deep skirt cast
iron block, aluminum heads, single cam, overhead
valve engine with hydraulic roller tappets. The heads
incorporate splayed valves with a hemispherical style
combustion chamber and dual spark plugs. The cyl-
inders are numbered from front to rear; 1, 3, 5, 7 on
the left bank and 2, 4, 6, 8 on the right bank. The
firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per-
formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise).
Fig. 1 5.7L ENGINE
9 - 178 ENGINE - 5.7LDR

(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING)ÐPERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)ÐMECHANICAL for
possible causes and corrections of malfunctions.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following diagnosis:²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING).
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING).
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
6. Dirt or water in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 7. Repair or replace as necessary.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Idle speed set to low. 1. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL INJECTION/IDLE AIR
CONTROL MOTOR - REMOVAL).
2. Idle mixture too lean or too rich. 2. Refer to Powertrain Diagnosis
Information.
3. Vacuum leak. 3. Inspect intake manifold and
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as
necessary.
4. Faulty coil. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect engine timing. 5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE
TIMING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 179
ENGINE - 5.7L (Continued)

(3) Lower the transmission so the transmission
mount rests on the crossmember, and the studs of
the transmission mount are aligned in the slots in
the crossmember.
(4) Install the nuts onto the transmission mount
studs through the crossmember access slot.
(5) Torque the nuts to 54N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
The lubrication system (Fig. 25) is a full flow fil-
tration pressure feed type.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit and install
gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb Idle±25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpm±170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
Fig. 25 Engine Oil Lubrication System
9 - 214 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
REAR MOUNT (Continued)

If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Remove the PCV valve from the IAFM. Cap or
plug the PCV valve grommet.
(2) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(3) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(4) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(5) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve.
(6) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL
SERVICE
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 215
LUBRICATION (Continued)

the outside in a crisscross pattern. Torque fasteners
to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(4) Connect electrical connectors for the following
components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
(5) Install generator.
(6) Install A/C compressor.
(7) Connect Brake booster hose and Positive crank-
case ventilation (PCV) hose.
(8) Install resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(9) Connect negative cable to battery.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust manifolds are log style with a pat-
ented flow enhancing design to maximize perfor-
mance. The exhaust manifolds are made of high
silicon molybdenum cast iron. A perforated core
graphite exhaust manifold gasket is used to improve
sealing to the cylinder head. The exhaust manifolds
are covered by a three layer laminated heat shield
for thermal protection and noise reduction. The heat
shields are fastened with a torque prevailing nut
that is backed off slightly to allow for the thermal
expansion of the exhaust manifold.
OPERATION
The exhaust manifolds collect the engine exhaust
exiting the combustion chambers, then channels the
exhaust gases to the exhaust pipes attached to the
manifolds.
REMOVAL
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Remove exhaust pipe to manifold bolts.
(4) Lower vehicle.
(5) Install engine support fixture special tool
#8534.
(6) Raise engine enough to remove manifolds.
CAUTION: Do not damage engine harness while
raising the engine.
(7) Remove heat shield.
(8) Remove manifold bolts.
(9) Remove manifold and gasket.
CLEANING
Clean mating surfaces on cylinder head and mani-
fold. Wash with solvent and blow dry with com-
pressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect manifold for cracks.
Inspect mating surfaces of manifold for flatness
with a straight edge. Gasket surfaces must be flat
within 0.2 mm per 300 mm (0.008 inch per foot).
INSTALLATION
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Install manifold gasket and manifold.
(2) Install manifold bolts and tighten to 25 N´m
(18 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install heat shield and tighten nuts to 15 N´m
(11 ft. lbs.).
(4) Lower engine.
CAUTION: Do not damage engine harness while
lowering the engine.
(5) Remove engine support fixture from engine.
(6) Raise vehicle.
(7) Tighten right and left side engine mount
through bolts.
(8) Install exhaust flange to pipe bolts.
(9) Lower vehicle.
(10) Connect negative battery cable.
TIMING/CHAIN COVER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(3) Drain cooling system.
(4) Remove accessory drive belt.
(5) Remove fan and fan drive assembly (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
(6) Remove coolant bottle and washer bottle.
(7) Remove fan shroud.
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect A/C lines or
discharge freon.
(8) Remove A/C compressor and set aside.
(9) Remove the generator.
(10) Remove upper radiator hose.
(11) Disconnect both heater hoses at timing cover.
(12) Disconnect lower radiator hose at engine.
(13) Remove accessory drive belt tensioner and
both idler pulleys.
9 - 220 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)