2003 DODGE RAM rough idle

INSTALLATION
(1) Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary
chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush
with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool,
release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against
spring force through access hole on side of tensioner.
While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet
device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner
body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on
front of tensioner (Fig. 111). Slowly open vise to
transfer piston spring force to lock pin.
(2) Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump
and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner
bracket. Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Install right side chain tensioner arm. Install
Torxtbolt. Tighten Torxtbolt to 28 N´m (250 in.
lbs.).
CAUTION: The silver bolts retain the guides to the
cylinder heads and the black bolts retain the guides
to the engine block.(4) Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the
bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(5) Install left side chain tensioner arm, and Torxt
bolt. Tighten Torxtbolt to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the
bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(7) Install both secondary chains onto the idler
sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary
chains to be visible through the two lower openings
on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once
the secondary timing chains are installed, position
special tool 8429 to hold chains in place for installa-
tion.
(8) Align primary chain double plated links with
the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket.
Align the primary chain single plated link with the
timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket.
(9) Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean
engine oil.
NOTE: The idler sprocket must be timed to the
counterbalance shaft drive gear before the idler
sprocket is fully seated.
Fig. 111 RESETTING SECONDARY CHAIN
TENSIONERS
1 - VISE
2 - INSERT LOCK PIN
3 - RATCHET PAWL
4 - RATCHET
5 - PISTON
Fig. 112 INSTALLING IDLER GEAR, PRIMARY AND
SECONDARY TIMING CHAINS
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8429
2 - PRIMARY CHAIN IDLER SPROCKET
3 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
9 - 84 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)

(10) Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and
idler sprocket as an assembly (Fig. 112). After guid-
ing both secondary chains through the block and cyl-
inder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap
or equivalent. This will maintain tension on chains to
aid in installation. Align the timing mark on the
idler sprocket gear to the timing mark on the coun-
terbalance shaft drive gear, then seat idler sprocket
fully (Fig. 113). Before installing idler sprocket bolt,
lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket
assembly retaining bolt to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: It will be necessary to slightly rotate cam-
shafts for sprocket installation.
(11) Align left camshaft sprocket ªLº dot to plated
link on chain.
(12) Align right camshaft sprocket ªRº dot to
plated link on chain.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft
sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over-
torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
(13) Remove Special Tool 8429, then attach both
sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts,
then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this
time.(14) Verify that all plated links are aligned with
the marks on all sprockets and the ªV6º marks on
camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position.
CAUTION: Ensure the plate between the left sec-
ondary chain tensioner and block is correctly
installed.
(15) Install both secondary chain tensioners.
Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
NOTE: Left and right secondary chain tensioners
are not common.
(16) Remove all locking pins (3) from tensioners.
CAUTION: After pulling locking pins out of each
tensioner, DO NOT manually extend the tensioner(s)
ratchet. Doing so will over tension the chains,
resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads.
(17) Using Special Tool 6958, Spanner with Adap-
tor Pins 8346, tighten left (Fig. 114) and right (Fig.
115). camshaft sprocket bolts to 122 N´m (90 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 113 COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT ALIGNMENT
MARKS
1 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT GEAR
2 - TIMING MARK
3 - IDLER SPROCKET GEAR
Fig. 114 TIGHTENING LEFT SIDE CAMSHAFT
SPROCKET BOLT
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
3 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 85
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)

ENGINE - 4.7L
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
6. Dirt or water in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 7. Repair or replace as necessary.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Idle speed set to low. 1. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL INJECTION/IDLE AIR
CONTROL MOTOR - REMOVAL).
2. Idle mixture too lean or too rich. 2. Refer to Powertrain Diagnosis
Information.
3. Vacuum leak. 3. Inspect intake manifold and
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as
necessary.
4. Faulty coil. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect engine timing. 5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE
TIMING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
1. ENGINE LOSS OF POWER 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Dirt or water in fuel system. 2. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
3. Faulty fuel pump. 3. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL PUMP -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
4. Blown cylinder head gasket. 4. Replace cylinder head gasket.
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 89

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per-
formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING)ÐPERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)ÐMECHANICAL for
possible causes and corrections of malfunctions.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following diagnosis:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING).
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING).
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier than using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 93
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

The camshaft exhaust valve lobes and rocker arms
are lubricated through a small hole in the rocker
arm; oil flows through the lash adjuster then through
the rocker arm and onto the camshaft lobe. Due to
the orentation of the rocker arm, the camshaft intake
lobes are not lubed in the same manner as the
exhaust lobes. The intake lobes are lubed through
internal passages in the camshaft. Oil flows througha bore in the number 3 camshaft bearing bore, and
as the camshaft turns, a hole in the camshaft aligns
with the hole in the camshaft bore allowing engine
oil to enter the camshaft tube. The oil then exits
through 1.6mm (0.063 in.) holes drilled into the
intake lobes, lubricating the lobes and the rocker
arms.
ENGINE LUBRICATION FLOW CHARTÐBLOCK: TABLE 1
FROM TO
Oil Pickup Tube Oil Pump
Oil Pump Oil Filter
Oil Filter Block Main Oil Gallery
Block Main Oil Gallery 1. Crankshaft Main Journal
2. Left Cylinder Head*
3. Right Cylinder Head*
Crankshaft Main Journals Crankshaft Rod Journals
Crankshaft Number One Main Journal 1.Front Timing Chain Idler Shaft
2.Both Secondary Chain Tensioners
Left Cylinder Head See Table 2
Right Cylinder Head See Table 2
* The cylinder head gaskets have an oil restricter to control oil flow to the cylinder heads.
ENGINE LUBRICATION FLOW CHARTÐCYLINDER HEADS: TABLE 2
FROM TO
Cylinder Head Oil Port (in bolt hole) Diagonal Cross Drilling to Main Oil Gallery
Main Oil Gallery (drilled through head from rear to
front)1. Base of Camshaft Towers
2. Lash Adjuster Towers
Base of Camshaft Towers Vertical Drilling Through Tower to Camshaft Bearings**
Lash Adjuster Towers Diagonal Drillings to Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Pockets
** The number three camshaft bearing journal feeds oil into the hollow camshaft tubes. Oil is routed to the intake
lobes, which have oil passages drilled into them to lubricate the rocker arms.
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 149
LUBRICATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 93)and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb Idle±25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpm±170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
Fig. 93 OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT -TYPICAL
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
9 - 150 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)

(16) Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes
from intake manifold (Fig. 108).
(17) Remove coolant temperature sensor (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT TEM-
PERATURE SENSO - REMOVAL).
(18) Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in
reverse order of tightening sequence (Fig. 109).
(19) Remove intake manifold.CLEANING
NOTE: There is NO approved repair procedure for the
intake manifold. If severe damage is found during
inspection, the intake manifold must be replaced.
Before installing the intake manifold thoroughly
clean the mating surfaces. Use a suitable cleaning
solvent, then air dry.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the intake sealing surface for cracks,
nicks and distortion.
(2) Inspect the intake manifold vacuum hose fit-
tings for looseness or blockage.
(3) Inspect the manifold to throttle body mating
surface for cracks, nicks and distortion.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install intake manifold gaskets.
(2) Position intake manifold.
(3) Install intake manifold retaining bolts and
tighten in sequence shown in (Fig. 109) to 12 N´m
(105 in. lbs.).
(4) Install left and right radio suppressor straps.
(5) Install throttle body assembly.
(6) Install throttle cable bracket.
(7) Connect throttle cable and speed control cable
to throttle body.
(8) Install fuel rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL RAIL - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install ignition coil towers (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Position and install heater hoses and tubes
onto intake manifold.
(11) Install the heater hoses to the heater core and
engine front cover.
(12) Connect electrical connectors for the following
components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Ignition coil towers
²Fuel injectors
(13) Install top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and
ground strap.
(14) Connect generator electrical connections.
(15) Connect Brake booster hose and Positive
crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
(16) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(17) Install resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(18) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 108 Heater Hoses and Tubes Removal /
Installation
1 - HEATER HOSES AND TUBES
2 - ROUTING/RETAINING CLIPS
Fig. 109 Intake Manifold Tightening Sequence
9 - 158 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

VALVE TIMING
DESCRIPTIONÐTIMING DRIVE SYSTEM
The timing drive system (Fig. 114) has been
designed to provide quiet performance and reliability
to support anon-free wheelingengine. Specifically
the intake valves are non-free wheeling and can be
easily damaged with forceful engine rotation if cam-
shaft-to-crankshaft timing is incorrect. The timing
drive system consists of a primary chain and two sec-
ondary timing chain drives.
OPERATION - TIMING DRIVE SYSTEM
The primary timing chain is a single inverted tooth
type. The primary chain drives the large fifty tooth
idler sprocket directly from a 25 tooth crankshaft
sprocket. Primary chain motion is controlled by a
pivoting leaf spring tensioner arm and a fixed guide.
The arm and the guide both use nylon plastic wear
faces for low friction and long wear. The primarychain receives oil splash lubrication from the second-
ary chain drive and oil pump leakage. The idler
sprocket assembly connects the primary and second-
ary chain drives. The idler sprocket assembly con-
sists of two integral thirty tooth sprockets and a fifty
tooth sprocket that is splined to the assembly. The
spline joint is a non ± serviceable press fit anti rattle
type. The idler sprocket assembly spins on a station-
ary idler shaft. The idler shaft is press-fit into the
cylinder block. A large washer on the idler shaft bolt
and the rear flange of the idler shaft are used to con-
trol sprocket thrust movement. Pressurized oil is
routed through the center of the idler shaft to pro-
vide lubrication for the two bushings used in the
idler sprocket assembly.
There are two secondary drive chains, both are
inverted tooth type, one to drive the camshaft in each
SOHC cylinder head. There are no shaft speed
changes in the secondary chain drive system. Each
secondary chain drives a thirty tooth cam sprocket
Fig. 114 Timing Drive System
1 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND SECONDARY CHAIN
2 - SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER (LEFT AND RIGHT
SIDE NOT COMMON)
3 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM
4 - LEFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND SECONDARY CHAIN
5 - CHAIN GUIDE
6 - TWO PLATED LINKS ON RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN7 - PRIMARY CHAIN
8 - IDLER SPROCKET
9 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
10 - PRIMARY CHAIN TENSIONER
11 - TWO PLATED LINKS ON LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
12 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM
9 - 164 ENGINE - 4.7LDR