2003 DODGE RAM rough idle

OPERATION
The backup lamp switch controls the flow of bat-
tery voltage to the backup lamp bulbs through an
output on the back-up lamp feed circuit. The switch
plunger is mechanically actuated by the gearshift
mechanism within the transmission, which will
depress the switch plunger and close the switch con-
tacts whenever the reverse gear has been selected.
The switch receives battery voltage through a fuse in
the Integrated Power Module (IPM) on a fused igni-
tion switch output (run) circuit whenever the ignition
switch is in the On position. A take out of the engine
wire harness connects the backup lamp switch to the
vehicle electrical system. The backup lamp switch
and circuits can be tested using conventional diag-
nostic tools and methods.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BACKUP LAMP
SWITCH
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Locate and disconnect the engine wire harness
connector for the backup lamp switch.
(4) Check for continuity between the two terminal
pins in the backup lamp switch connector.
(a) With the gear selector lever in the Reverse
position, there should be continuity.
(b) With the gear selector lever in any position
other than Reverse, there should be no continuity.
BRAKE LAMP
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the negative battery
cable.
(2) Remove the tail lamp unit (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/TAIL
LAMP UNIT - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the bulb back plate from the tail lamp
unit.
(4) Remove the bulb from the back plate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the bulb into the back plate.
(2) Install the bulb back plate to the tail lamp
unit.
(3) Install the tail lamp unit (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/TAIL
LAMP UNIT - INSTALLATION).
(4) Connect the negative battery cable.
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The plunger type brake lamp switch is mounted on
a bracket attached to the base of the steering col-
umn, under the instrument panel.
CAUTION: The switch can only be adjusted during
initial installation. If the switch is not adjusted prop-
erly a new switch must be installed.
OPERATION
The brake lamp switch is hard wired to the Center
High Mount Stop Lamp (CHMSL) and also moni-
tored by the Instrument Cluster for use by the brake
lamp, speed control brake sensor circuits and elec-
tronic brake distribution (EBD). The brake lamp cir-
cuit is open until the plunger is depressed. The speed
control and brake sensor circuits are closed until the
plunger is depressed. When the brake lamp switch
transitions, the CHMSL transitions and instrument
cluster transmits a brake applied/released message
on the bus. The Integrated Power Module (IPM) will
then transition the brake lamps.
When the brake light switch is activated, the Pow-
ertrain Control Module (PCM) receives an input indi-
cating that the brakes are being applied. After
receiving this input, the PCM maintains idle speed to
a scheduled rpm through control of the Idle Air Con-
trol (IAC) motor. The brake switch input is also used
to disable vent and vacuum solenoid output signals
to the speed control servo.
Fig. 1 Backup Lamp Switch - Typical
1 - MANUAL TRANSMISSION
2 - BACKUP LAMP SWITCH
3 - ENGINE WIRE HARNESS
8L - 8 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORDR
BACKUP LAMP SWITCH (Continued)

OPERATION
When speed control is selected by depressing the
ON switch, the PCM (the ECM with a diesel engine)
allows a set speed to be stored in its RAM for speed
control. To store a set speed, depress the SET switch
while the vehicle is moving at a speed between 35
and 85 mph. In order for the speed control to engage,
the brakes cannot be applied, nor can the gear selec-
tor be indicating the transmission is in Park or Neu-
tral.
The speed control can be disengaged manually by:
²Stepping on the brake pedal
²Depressing the OFF switch
²Depressing the CANCEL switch.
²Depressing the clutch pedal (if equipped).
NOTE: Depressing the OFF switch or turning off the
ignition switch will erase the set speed stored in
the PCM (the ECM with a diesel engine).
For added safety, the speed control system is pro-
grammed to disengage for any of the following condi-
tions:
²An indication of Park or Neutral
²A rapid increase rpm (indicates that the clutch
has been disengaged)
²Excessive engine rpm (indicates that the trans-
mission may be in a low gear)
²The speed signal increases at a rate of 10 mph
per second (indicates that the coefficient of friction
between the road surface and tires is extremely low)
²The speed signal decreases at a rate of 10 mph
per second (indicates that the vehicle may have
decelerated at an extremely high rate)
Once the speed control has been disengaged,
depressing the RES/ACCEL switch (when speed is
greater than 30 mph) restores the vehicle to the tar-
get speed that was stored in the PCM (the ECM with
a diesel engine).
While the speed control is engaged, the driver can
increase the vehicle speed by depressing the RES/AC-
CEL switch. The new target speed is stored in the
PCM (the ECM with a diesel engine) when the RES/
ACCEL is released. The PCM also has a9tap-up9fea-
ture in which vehicle speed increases at a rate of
approximately 2 mph for each momentary switch
activation of the RES/ACCEL switch.
A ªtap downº feature is used to decelerate without
disengaging the speed control system. To decelerate
from an existing recorded target speed, momentarily
depress the COAST switch. For each switch activa-
tion, speed will be lowered approximately 1 mph.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - VACUUM SUPPLY
TEST
3.7L / 4.7L / 5.9L / 8.0L Gas Powered Engines
3.7L/4.7L/5.9L/8.0L gas powered engines: actual
engine vacuum, a vacuum reservoir, a one-way check
valve and vacuum lines are used to supply vacuum to
the speed control servo.
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose at speed control servo
and install a vacuum gauge into the disconnected
hose.
(2) Start engine and observe gauge at idle. Vac-
uum gauge should read at least ten inches of mer-
cury.
(3) If vacuum is less than ten inches of mercury,
determine source of leak. Check vacuum line to
engine for leaks. Also check actual engine intake
manifold vacuum. If manifold vacuum does not meet
this requirement, check for poor engine performance
and repair as necessary.
(4) If vacuum line to engine is not leaking, check
for leak at vacuum reservoir. To locate and gain
access to reservoir, refer to Vacuum Reservoir Remov-
al/Installation in this group. Disconnect vacuum line
at reservoir and connect a hand-operated vacuum
pump to reservoir fitting. Apply vacuum. Reservoir
vacuum should not bleed off. If vacuum is being lost,
replace reservoir.
(5) Verify operation of one-way check valve and
check it for leaks.
(a) Locate one-way check valve. The valve is
located in vacuum line between vacuum reservoir
and engine vacuum source. Disconnect vacuum
hoses (lines) at each end of valve.
(b) Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to
reservoir end of check valve. Apply vacuum. Vac-
uum should not bleed off. If vacuum is being lost,
replace one-way check valve.
(c) Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to
vacuum source end of check valve. Apply vacuum.
Vacuum should flow through valve. If vacuum is
not flowing, replace one-way check valve. Seal the
fitting at opposite end of valve with a finger and
apply vacuum. If vacuum will not hold, diaphragm
within check valve has ruptured. Replace valve.
5.7 Gas
Vacuum is not used for any part of the speed con-
trol system if equipped with a 5.7L V-8 engine.
5.9L Diesel Engine With Manual Trans.
Vacuum is not used for any part of the speed con-
trol system if equipped with a diesel engine and a
manual transmission.
8P - 2 SPEED CONTROLDR
SPEED CONTROL (Continued)

(2) Start engine and observe gauge at idle. Vac-
uum gauge should read at least ten inches of mer-
cury.
(3) If vacuum is less than ten inches of mercury,
determine source of leak. Check vacuum line to
engine for leaks. Also check actual engine intake
manifold vacuum. If manifold vacuum does not meet
this requirement, check for poor engine performance
and repair as necessary.
(4) If vacuum line to engine is not leaking, check
for leak at vacuum reservoir. To locate and gain
access to reservoir, refer to Vacuum Reservoir Remov-
al/Installation in this group. Disconnect vacuum line
at reservoir and connect a hand-operated vacuum
pump to reservoir fitting. Apply vacuum. Reservoir
vacuum should not bleed off. If vacuum is being lost,
replace reservoir.
(5) Verify operation of one-way check valve and
check it for leaks.Certain models may be
equipped with 2 check-valves.
(a) Locate one-way check valve. The valve is
located in vacuum line between vacuum reservoir
and engine vacuum source. Disconnect vacuum
hoses (lines) at each end of valve.
(b) Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to
reservoir end of check valve. Apply vacuum. Vac-
uum should not bleed off. If vacuum is being lost,
replace one-way check valve.
(c) Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to
vacuum source end of check valve. Apply vacuum.
Vacuum should flow through valve. If vacuum is
not flowing, replace one-way check valve. Seal the
fitting at opposite end of valve with a finger and
apply vacuum. If vacuum will not hold, diaphragm
within check valve has ruptured. Replace valve.
REMOVAL
The vacuum reservoir is located in the engine com-
partment under the fresh air cowl grill panel (Fig.
12).
(1) Remove wiper blades and arms. Refer to Wiper
Arm Removal / Installation in the Wipers / Washers
section.
(2) Remove fresh air cowl grill. Refer to Cowl Grill
Removal / Installation.
(3) Disconnect vacuum line at reservoir (Fig. 13).
(4) Remove 2 reservoir mounting nuts (Fig. 13).
(5) Remove reservoir from cowl.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position reservoir onto 2 weld studs (Fig. 13).
(2) Install 2 mounting nuts and tighten. Refer to
torque specifications.
(3) Connect vacuum line to reservoir fitting.
(4) Install cowl grill. Refer to Cowl Grill Removal /
Installation.(5) Install wiper arms / blades. Refer to Wiper Arm
Removal / Installation.
Fig. 12 VACUUM RESERVOIR LOCATION
1 - COWL GRILL
2 - WIPER ARMS / BLADES
3 - VACUUM RESERVOIR
Fig. 13 VACUUM RESERVOIR REMOVAL /
INSTALLATION
1 - COWL (BELOW WIPER ARMS)
2 - VACUUM LINE CONNECTION
3 - MOUNTING NUTS (2)
4 - VACUUM RESERVOIR
5 - WELDED STUDS
8P - 10 SPEED CONTROLDR
VACUUM RESERVOIR (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per-
formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING)ÐPERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)ÐMECHANICAL for
possible causes and corrections of malfunctions.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following diagnosis:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING).
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING).
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
6. Incorrect right bank cam timing. 6. Refer to engine timing in this
section.
7. Dirt or water in fuel system. 7. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
8.Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 8.Repair or replace as necessary.
9. Faulty cam or crank sensor 9. Refer to Ignition system.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Vacuum leak. 1. Inspect intake manifold and
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as
necessary.
2. Faulty crank position sensor 2. Replace crank position sensor.
3. Faulty coil. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
9 - 4 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

ENGINE LUBRICATION FLOW CHART - BLOCK: TABLE 1
FROM TO
Oil Pickup Tube Oil Pump
Oil Pump Oil Filter
Oil Filter Block Main Oil Gallery
Block Main Oil Gallery 1. Crankshaft Main Journal
2. Left Cylinder Head*
3. Right Cylinder Head*
4. Counterbalance Shaft Rear Journal
Crankshaft Main Journals Crankshaft Rod Journals
Crankshaft Number One Main Journal 1. Front Timing Chain Idler Shaft
2. Counterbalance Shaft - Front Journal
3. Both Secondary Chain Tensioners
Left Cylinder Head Refer to Engine Lubrication Flow Chart - Cylinder
Heads: Table 2
Right Cylinder Head Refer to Engine Lubrication Flow Chart - Cylinder
Heads: Table 2
* The cylinder head gaskets have an oil restricter to control oil flow to the cylinder heads
ENGINE LUBRICATION FLOW CHART - CYLINDER HEADS: TABLE 2
FROM TO
Cylinder Head Oil Port (in bolt hole) Diagonal Cross Drilling to Main Oil Gallery
Main Oil Gallery (drilled through head from rear to
front)1. Base of Camshaft Towers
2. Lash Adjuster Towers
Base of Camshaft Towers Vertical Drilling Through Tower to Camshaft Bearings**
Lash Adjuster Towers Diagonal Drillings to Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Pockets
** The number three camshaft bearing journal feeds oil into the hollow camshaft tubes. Oil is routed to the intake
lobes, which have oil passages drilled into them to lubricate the rocker arms.
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 61
LUBRICATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 63
LUBRICATION (Continued)

The idler shaft is a light press-fit into the cylinder
block. A large washer on the idler shaft bolt and the
rear flange of the idler shaft are used to control
sprocket thrust movement. Pressurized oil is routed
through the center of the idler shaft to provide lubri-
cation for the two bushings used in the idler sprocket
assembly.
There are two secondary drive chains, both are
roller type, one to drive the camshaft in each SOHC
cylinder head. There are no shaft speed changes in
the secondary chain drive system. Each secondary
chain drives a 26 tooth cam sprocket directly from
the 26 tooth sprocket on the idler sprocket assembly.
A fixed chain guide and a hydraulic oil damped ten-
sioner are used to maintain tension in each second-
ary chain system. The hydraulic tensioners for the
secondary chain systems are fed pressurized oil from
oil reservoir pockets in the block. Each tensioner
incorporates a controlled leak path through a device
known as a vent disc located in the nose of the piston
to manage chain loads. Each tensioner also has a
mechanical ratchet system that limits chain slack if
the tensioner piston bleeds down after engine shut
down. The tensioner arms and guides also utilize
nylon wear faces for low friction and long wear. The
secondary timing chains receive lubrication from a
small orifice in the tensioners. This orifice is pro-
tected from clogging by a fine mesh screen which is
located on the back of the hydraulic tensioners.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR
NOTE: This procedure must be performed with the
timing chain cover removed.
(1) Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to Timing
Chain Cover in this section for procedure.
(2) To determine if the secondary timing chains
are worn, rotate the engine clockwise until maximum
tensioner piston extension is obtained. Measure the
distance between the secondary timing chain ten-
sioner housing and the step ledge on the piston. The
measurement at point (A) must be less than 15mm
(.5906 inches).
(3) If the measurement exceeds the specification
the secondary timing chains are worn and require
replacement. Refer to Timing Chain and Sprockets in
this section for procedure.
SERVICE PROCEDURE - TIMING VERIFICATION
CAUTION: The 3.7L is a non free-wheeling design
engine. Therefore, correct engine timing is critical.NOTE: Components referred to as left hand or right
hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside
the vehicle.
NOTE: The blue link plates on the chains and the
dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line
up during the timing verification procedure. The
blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots
only when re-timing the complete timing drive.
Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot
alignment is no longer valid.
Engine base timing can be verified by the following
procedure:
(1) Remove the cylinder head covers. Refer to the
procedure in this section.
(2) Using a mirror, locate the TDC arrow on the
front cover (Fig. 96). Rotate the crankshaft until the
mark on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the
TDC arrow on the front cover. The engine is now at
TDC.
(3) Note the location of the V6 mark stamped into
the camshaft drive gears. If the V6 mark on each
camshaft drive gear is at the twelve o'clock position,
the engine is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. If the V6
mark on each gear is at the six o'clock position, the
engine is at TDC on the compression stroke. (Fig.
100)
Fig. 96 Engine Top Dead Center (TDC) Indicator
Mark
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
9 - 76 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
VALVE TIMING (Continued)

CAUTION: Use care when removing the idler shaft,
Do not strike the radiator cooling fins with the slide
hammer.
(4) Using Special Tool 8517 Slide Hammer, remove
the idler shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean the idler shaft bore.
(2) Position the idler shaft in the bore.
NOTE: The two lubrication holes in the idler shaft
do not require any special alignment.
NOTE: Before using the retaining bolt to install the
idler shaft, coat the threads and the pilot on the
idler shaft, with clean engine oil.
(3) Using the primary idler sprocket retaining bolt
and washer, carefully draw the idler shaft into the
bore until fully seated.
(4) Coat the idler shaft with clean engine oil.
(5) Install the timing chains and sprockets. Refer
to procedure in this section.
TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove electric cooling fan and fan shroud
assembly.
(4) Remove fan and fan drive assembly (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
(5) Disconnect both heater hoses at timing cover.
(6) Disconnect lower radiator hose at engine.
(7) Remove accessory drive belt tensioner assembly
(Fig. 103).
(8) Remove crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(9) Remove the generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/CHARGING/GENERATOR - REMOVAL).
(10) Remove A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: The 3.7L engine uses an anerobic sealer
instead of a gasket to seal the front cover to the
engine block, from the factory. For service, MoparT
Engine RTV sealant must be substituted.NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the water
pump for timing cover removal.
(11) Remove the bolts holding the timing cover to
engine block (Fig. 104).
(12) Remove the timing cover.
Fig. 103 ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TENSIONER
1 - TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
2 - FASTENER TENSIONER TO FRONT COVER
Fig. 104 TIMING CHAIN COVER FASTENERS
9 - 80 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
IDLER SHAFT (Continued)