2003 DODGE RAM oil change

Miles 72,000 78,000 84,000 90,000 96,000 100,000
(Kilometers) (115 000) (125 000) (134 000) (144 000) (154 000) (160 000)
[Months] [72] [78] [84] [90] [96]
Change engine oil and engine oil filter.XXXXX
Lubricate outer tie rod ends 2500/3500
(4X4) models only.XXXXX
Drain and refill transfer case fluid. X
Flush and replace engine coolant, if not
done at 60 mos.X
Flush and replace Power Steering Fluid.X
Inspect brake linings. X X
Replace engine air cleaner filter.X
Replace spark plugs.X
Replace ignition cables (5.7L/5.9L/
8.0L).X
Inspect PCV valve, replace as
necessary.X*
Inspect auto tension drive belt and
replace if required (3.7L/4.7L/5.7L/5.9L/
8.0L).X
Drain and refill automatic tranmission
fluid, change filter and adjust bands
(46RE/47RE/48RE).X
Drain and refill automatic tranmission
fluid and change main sump filter and
spin-on cooler return filter (if equipped)
[45RFE/545RFE only].X
Miles 102,000 108,000 114,000 120,000
(Kilometers) (163 000) (173 000) (182 000) (192 000)
[Months] [102] [108] [114] [120]
Change engine oil and engine oil filter. X X X X
Check transfer case fluid level.X
Lubricate outer tie rod ends 2500/3500 (4X4) models only. X X X X
Inspect brake linings. X
Inspect auto tension drive belt and replace if required
(3.7L/4.7L/5.7L/5.9L/8.0L).X³X³
Replace engine air cleaner filter.X
Replace spark plugs.X
* This maintenance is recommended by the manu-
facture to the owner but is not required to maintain
the emissions warranty.
³ This maintenance is not required if previously
replaced.
Inspection and service should also be performed
anytime a malfunction is observed or suspected.
Retain all receipts.WARNING: You can be badly injured working on or
around a motor vehicle. Do only that service work
for which you have the knowledge and the right
equipment. If you have any doubt about your ability
to perform a service job, take your vehicle to a
competent mechanic.
0 - 12 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCEDR
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

angle while adjusting caster, move one pivot bolt of
the upper control arm in or out. Then move the other
pivot bolt of the upper control arm in the opposite
direction. Install special tool 8876 between the top of
the upper control arm bracket and the upper control
arm (on 1500 series 4X2 & 4X4). Install special tool
8876 between the bottom of the upper control arm
bracket pressing the tool against the frame and the
upper control arm (on 2500/3500 series 4X2) in order
to move the upper control arm outwards for proper
adjustment with the vehicle at normal ride height
(Fig. 3).
To increase positive caster angle, move the rear
position of the upper control arm inward (toward the
engine). Move the front of the upper control arm out-
ward (away from the engine) slightly until the origi-
nal camber angle is obtained using special tool 8876
to move the upper control arm for proper adjustment.
(Fig. 3)
CAMBER
Move both pivot bolts of the upper control arm
together in or out. This will change the camber angle
significantly and little effect on the caster angle
using special tool 8876 to move the upper control
arm for proper adjustment. (Fig. 3)
After adjustment is made tighten the upper control
arm nuts to proper torque specification.
TOE ADJUSTMENT
The wheel toe position adjustment is the final
adjustment.
(1) Start the engine and turn wheels both ways
before straightening the wheels. Secure the steering
wheel with the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.
(2) Loosen the tie rod jam nuts.
NOTE: Each front wheel should be adjusted for
one-half of the total toe position specification. This
will ensure the steering wheel will be centered
when the wheels are positioned straight-ahead.
(3) Adjust the wheel toe position by turning the
inner tie rod as necessary (Fig. 4).
(4) Tighten the tie rod jam nut to 75 N´m (55 ft.
lbs.).
(5) Verify the specifications
(6) Turn off engine.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ALIGNMENT
LINK/COIL SUSPENSION
Before each alignment reading the vehicle should
be jounced (rear first, then front). Grasp each
bumper at the center and jounce the vehicle up and
down several times. Always release the bumper inthe down position.Set the front end alignment to
specifications while the vehicle is in its NOR-
MALLY LOADED CONDITION.
CAMBER:The wheel camber angle is preset and
is not adjustable.
CASTER:Check the caster of the front axle for
correct angle. Be sure the axle is not bent or twisted.
Road test the vehicle and make left and right turn.
Observe the steering wheel return-to-center position.
Low caster will cause poor steering wheel returnabil-
ity.
Caster can be adjusted by rotating the cams on the
lower suspension arm (Fig. 5).
TOE POSITION:The wheel toe position adjust-
ment should be the final adjustment.
Fig. 4 TIE ROD END
1 - JAM NUT
2 - TIE ROD - INNER
3 - TIE ROD END - OUTER
Fig. 5 ALIGNMENT ADJUSTMENT CAM
1 - BRACKET REINFORCEMENT
2 - ADJUSTING BOLT
3 - ADJUSTMENT CAM
DRWHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 5
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that hasbecome covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

LEARN A SMOOTH 1ST NEUTRAL TO DRIVE SHIFT
Perform this procedure only if the complaint is for
a delayed or harsh shift the first time the transmis-
sion is put into gear after the vehicle is allowed to
set with the engine not running for at least 10 min-
utes. Use the following steps to have the TCM learn
the 1st N-D UD CVI.
NOTE: The transmission oil temperature must be
between 80 - 110ÉF (27 - 43ÉC).
(1) Start the engine only when the engine and
ignition have been off for at least ten (10) minutes.
(2) With the vehicle at a stop and the service
brake applied, record the 1st N-D UD CVI while per-
forming a Neutral to Drive shift. The 1st N-D UD
CVI accounts for air entrapment in the UD clutch
that may occur after the engine has been off for a
period of time.
(3) Repeat Step 1 and Step 2 until the recorded 1st
N-D UD CVI value stabilizes.
NOTE: It is important that this procedure be per-
formed when the transmission temperature is
between 80 - 110ÉF (27 - 43ÉC). If this procedure
takes too long to complete fully for the allowed
transmission oil temperature, the vehicle may be
returned to the customer with an explanation that
the shift will improve daily during normal vehicle
usage. The TCM also learns at higher oil tempera-
tures, but these values (line pressure correction
values) are not available for viewing on the DRBT
III.
LEARN A SMOOTH NEUTRAL TO DRIVE GARAGE
SHIFT
Perform this procedure if the complaint is for a
delayed or harsh shift when the transmission is put
into gear after the vehicle has had its first shift. Use
the following steps to have the TCM learn the Norm
N-D UD CVI.
NOTE: The transmission oil temperature must be
between 80 - 110ÉF (27 - 43ÉC) to learn the UD CVI.
Additional learning occurs at temperatures as low
as 0ÉF and as high as 200ÉF. This procedure may be
performed at any temperature that experiences poor
shift quality. Although the UD CVI may not change,
shift quality should improve.
(1) Start the vehicle engine and shift to drive.
(2) Move the vehicle forward to a speed of at least
16 km/h (10 MPH) and come to a stop. This ensures
no air is present in the UD hydraulic circuit.
(3) Perform repeated N-D shifts at a stop while
pausing in Neutral for at least 2-3 seconds and mon-itor Norm N-D UD CVI volume until the value stabi-
lizes. The value will change during the N-D shift.
This is normal since the UD value is different for the
N-D shift then the normal value shown which is used
for 4-3 coastdown and kickdowns. Perform repeated
shifts in this temperature range until the Norm N-D
UD CVI value stabilizes and the N-D shifts become
smooth.
LEARN THE 1ST 2-3 SHIFT AFTER A RESTART OR
SHIFT TO REVERSE
Use the following steps to have the TCM learn the
1st 2-3 shift OD CVI.
NOTE: The transmission oil temperature must be
above 80ÉF (27ÉC).
(1) With the vehicle engine running, select reverse
gear for over 2 seconds.
(2) Shift the transmission to Drive and accelerate
the vehicle from a stop at a steady 15 degree throttle
opening and perform a 2-3 shift while noting the 1st
2-3 OD CVI.
(3) Repeat Step 1 and Step 2 until the 1st 2-3
upshift becomes smooth and the 1st 2-3 OD CVI sta-
bilizes.
LEARN A SMOOTH 2-3 AND 3-4 UPSHIFT
NOTE: The transmission oil temperature must be
above 110ÉF (43ÉC).
Use the following steps to have the TCM learn the
OD and 4C CVI's.
(1) Accelerate the vehicle from a stop at a steady
15 degree throttle opening and perform multiple 1-2,
2-3, and 3-4 upshifts. The 2nd 2-3 shift following a
restart or shift to reverse will be shown during the
shift as a value between the 1st 2-3 OD CVI and the
normal OD CVI. Updates to the normal OD CVI will
occur after the 2nd shift into 3rd gear, following a
restart or shift to reverse.
(2) Repeat Step 1 until the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts
become smooth and the OD and 4C CVI become sta-
ble.
LEARN A SMOOTH 4-3 COASTDOWN AND PART
THROTTLE 4-3 KICKDOWN
NOTE: The transmission oil temperature must be
above 110ÉF (43ÉC).
Use the following steps to have the TCM learn the
UD shift volume.
(1) At a vehicle speed between 64-97 km/h (40-60
MPH), perform repeated 4-3 kickdown shifts.
8E - 22 ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULESDR
TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE (Continued)

NOTE: Over or under tightening the sensor mount-
ing bolts will affect knock sensor performance, pos-
sibly causing improper spark control. Always use
the specified torque when installing the knock sen-
sors. The torque for the knock senor bolt is rela-
tively light for an 8mm bolt.
NOTE: Note foam strip on bolt threads. This foam is
used only to retain the bolts to sensors for plant
assembly. It is not used as a sealant. Do not apply
any adhesive, sealant or thread locking compound
to these bolts.
(3) Install and tighten mounting bolts. Refer to
torque specification.
(4) Install intake manifold. Refer to Engine sec-
tion.
(5) Connect knock sensor wiring harness to engine
harness at rear of intake manifold.
5.7L V-8
(1) Thoroughly clean knock sensor mounting hole.
(2) Install sensor into cylinder block.
NOTE: Over or under tightening the sensor mount-
ing bolts will affect knock sensor performance, pos-
sibly causing improper spark control. Always use
the specified torque when installing the knock sen-
sors. The torque for the knock senor bolt is rela-
tively light for an 8mm bolt.
NOTE: Note foam strip on bolt threads. This foam is
used only to retain the bolts to sensors for plant
assembly. It is not used as a sealant. Do not apply
any adhesive, sealant or thread locking compound
to these bolts.
(3) Install and tighten mounting bolt. Refer to
torque specification.
(4) Install electrical connector to sensor.
SPARK PLUG
DESCRIPTION
Resistor type spark plugs are used on all engines.
Sixteen spark plugs (2 per cylinder) are used with
5.7L V-8 engines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPARK PLUG
CONDITIONS
To prevent possible pre-ignition and/or mechanical
engine damage, the correct type/heat range/number
spark plug must be used.
Always use the recommended torque when tighten-
ing spark plugs. Incorrect torque can distort the
spark plug and change plug gap. It can also pull the
plug threads and do possible damage to both the
spark plug and the cylinder head.
Remove the spark plugs and examine them for
burned electrodes and fouled, cracked or broken por-
celain insulators. Keep plugs arranged in the order
in which they were removed from the engine. A sin-
gle plug displaying an abnormal condition indicates
that a problem exists in the corresponding cylinder.
Replace spark plugs at the intervals recommended in
the Lubrication and Maintenance section.
Spark plugs that have low mileage may be cleaned
and reused if not otherwise defective, carbon or oil
fouled.
CAUTION: Never use a motorized wire wheel brush
to clean the spark plugs. Metallic deposits will
remain on the spark plug insulator and will cause
plug misfire.
Spark plug resistance values range from 6,000 to
20,000 ohms (when checked with at least a 1000 volt
spark plug tester).Do not use an ohmmeter to
check the resistance values of the spark plugs.
Inaccurate readings will result.
NORMAL OPERATING
The few deposits present on the spark plug will
probably be light tan or slightly gray in color. This is
evident with most grades of commercial gasoline
(Fig. 42). There will not be evidence of electrode
burning. Gap growth will not average more than
approximately 0.025 mm (.001 in) per 3200 km (2000
miles) of operation. Spark plugs that have normal
wear can usually be cleaned, have the electrodes
filed, have the gap set and then be installed.
Some fuel refiners in several areas of the United
States have introduced a manganese additive (MMT)
for unleaded fuel. During combustion, fuel with MMT
causes the entire tip of the spark plug to be coated
with a rust colored deposit. This rust color can be
misdiagnosed as being caused by coolant in the com-
bustion chamber. Spark plug performance may be
affected by MMT deposits.
DRIGNITION CONTROL 8I - 27
KNOCK SENSOR (Continued)

COLD FOULING/CARBON FOULING
Cold fouling is sometimes referred to as carbon
fouling. The deposits that cause cold fouling are basi-
cally carbon (Fig. 42). A dry, black deposit on one or
two plugs in a set may be caused by sticking valves
or defective spark plug cables. Cold (carbon) fouling
of the entire set of spark plugs may be caused by a
clogged air cleaner element or repeated short operat-
ing times (short trips).
WET FOULING OR GAS FOULING
A spark plug coated with excessive wet fuel or oil
is wet fouled. In older engines, worn piston rings,
leaking valve guide seals or excessive cylinder wear
can cause wet fouling. In new or recently overhauled
engines, wet fouling may occur before break-in (nor-
mal oil control) is achieved. This condition can usu-
ally be resolved by cleaning and reinstalling the
fouled plugs.
OIL OR ASH ENCRUSTED
If one or more spark plugs are oil or oil ash
encrusted (Fig. 43), evaluate engine condition for the
cause of oil entry into that particular combustion
chamber.
ELECTRODE GAP BRIDGING
Electrode gap bridging may be traced to loose
deposits in the combustion chamber. These deposits
accumulate on the spark plugs during continuous
stop-and-go driving. When the engine is suddenly
subjected to a high torque load, deposits partially liq-
uefy and bridge the gap between electrodes (Fig. 44).
This short circuits the electrodes. Spark plugs withelectrode gap bridging can be cleaned using standard
procedures.
SCAVENGER DEPOSITS
Fuel scavenger deposits may be either white or yel-
low (Fig. 45). They may appear to be harmful, but
this is a normal condition caused by chemical addi-
tives in certain fuels. These additives are designed to
change the chemical nature of deposits and decrease
spark plug misfire tendencies. Notice that accumula-
tion on the ground electrode and shell area may be
heavy, but the deposits are easily removed. Spark
plugs with scavenger deposits can be considered nor-
Fig. 42 NORMAL OPERATION AND COLD (CARBON)
FOULING
1 - NORMAL
2 - DRY BLACK DEPOSITS
3 - COLD (CARBON) FOULING
Fig. 43 OIL OR ASH ENCRUSTED
Fig. 44 ELECTRODE GAP BRIDGING
1 - GROUND ELECTRODE
2 - DEPOSITS
3 - CENTER ELECTRODE
8I - 28 IGNITION CONTROLDR
SPARK PLUG (Continued)

8.0L V-10
(1) Always remove spark plug or ignition coil
cables by grasping at the cable boot (Fig. 50). Turn
the cable boot 1/2 turn and pull straight back in a
steady motion. Never pull directly on the cable.
Internal damage to cable will result.
(2) Prior to removing the spark plug, spray com-
pressed air around the spark plug hole and the area
around the spark plug. This will help prevent foreign
material from entering the combustion chamber.
(3) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket
with a rubber or foam insert.
(4) Inspect the spark plug condition. Refer to Diag-
nostics and Testing - Spark Plug Conditions.
CLEANING
CLEANING AND ADJUSTMENT
The plugs may be cleaned using commercially
available spark plug cleaning equipment. After clean-
ing, file center electrode flat with a small point file or
jewelers file before adjusting gap.
CAUTION: Never use a motorized wire wheel brush
to clean spark plugs. Metallic deposits will remain
on spark plug insulator and will cause plug misfire.
Adjust spark plug gap with a gap gauging tool
(Fig. 51).
INSTALLATION
3.7L V-6
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as elec-
trodes can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.
(2) Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifica-
tions.
(3) Before installing ignition coil(s), check condi-
tion of coil o-ring and replace as necessary. To aid in
coil installation, apply silicone to coil o-ring.
(4) Install ignition coil(s). Refer to Ignition Coil
Removal/Installation.
Fig. 50 CABLE REMOVAL - 5.9L / 8.0L
1 - SPARK PLUG CABLE AND BOOT
2 - SPARK PLUG BOOT PULLER
3 - TWIST AND PULL
4 - SPARK PLUG
Fig. 51 SETTING SPARK PLUG GAP - TYPICAL
1 - GAUGE TOOL
2 - SPARK PLUG
DRIGNITION CONTROL 8I - 31
SPARK PLUG (Continued)

4.7L V-8
CAUTION: The 4.7L V±8 engine is equipped with
copper core ground electrode spark plugs. They
must be replaced with the same type/number spark
plug as the original. If another spark plug is substi-
tuted, pre-ignition will result.
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as elec-
trodes can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.
(2) Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifica-
tions.
(3) Before installing ignition coil(s), check condi-
tion of coil o-ring and replace as necessary. To aid in
coil installation, apply silicone to coil o-ring.
(4) Install ignition coil(s). Refer to Ignition Coil
Removal/Installation.
5.7L V-8
(1) Special care should be taken when installing
spark plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells.
Be sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as
electrodes can be damaged.
(2) Start the spark plug into cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading aluminum threads. To
aid in installation, attach a piece of rubber hose, or
an old spark plug boot to spark plug.
(3) The 5.7L V-8 is equipped with torque critical
design spark plugs. Do not exceed 15 ft. lbs. torque.
Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifications.
(4) Before installing spark plug cables to either the
spark plugs or coils, apply dielectric grease to inside
of boots.
(5) To prevent ignition crossfire, spark plug cables
MUSTbe placed in cable tray (routing loom) into
their original position. Refer to Spark Plug Cable
Removal for a graphic.
(6) Install ignition coil(s) to necessary spark plugs.
Refer to Ignition Coil Installation.
(7) Install spark plug cables to remaining spark
plugs. Remember to apply dielectric grease to inside
of boots.
5.9L V-8
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as elec-
trodes can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
When replacing the spark plug and ignition coil
cables, route the cables correctly and secure them in
the appropriate retainers. Failure to route the cables
properly can cause the radio to reproduce ignition
noise. It could cause cross ignition of the spark plugs
or short circuit the cables to ground.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.
(2) Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifica-
tions.
(3) Install spark plug cables to spark plugs. On
5.9L V-8 engines, spark plug cable heat shields are
pressed into the cylinder head to surround each
spark plug cable boot and spark plug (Fig. 53). These
shields protect the spark plug boots from damage
(due to intense engine heat generated by the exhaust
manifolds) and should not be removed. After the
spark plug cable has been installed, the lip of the
cable boot should have a small air gap to the top of
the heat shield (Fig. 53).
8.0L V-10
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as elec-
trodes can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
When replacing the spark plug and ignition coil
cables, route the cables correctly and secure them in
the appropriate retainers. Failure to route the cables
properly can cause the radio to reproduce ignition
noise. It could cause cross ignition of the spark plugs
or short circuit the cables to ground.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.
(2) Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifica-
tions.
(3) Install spark plug cables to spark plugs.
8I - 32 IGNITION CONTROLDR
SPARK PLUG (Continued)