
(8) Push pedal shaft back and out of passenger
side of bracket (Fig. 24).
(9) Remove pedal shaft, brake pedal, wave washer
and bushings from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Replace bracket and pedal bushings if neces-
sary. Lubricate shaft bores in bracket and pedal
before installing bushings with Mopar Multi-mileage
silicone grease.
(2) Apply liberal quantity of Mopar multi-mileage
grease to pedal shaft and to pedal and bracket bush-
ings.
(3) Position brake pedal in mounting bracket.
(4) Slide pedal shaft into bracket and through
pedal from passenger side.
(5) Push pedal shaft out driver side of mounting
bracket just enough to allow installation of retaining
E-clip.
(6) Install the wave washer between the bracket
and the pedal bushing on the passenger side.
(7) Push pedal shaft back toward passenger side of
bracket and install remaining E-clip on pedal shaft.
(8) Install booster push rod on brake pedal. Secure
push rod to pedal with washer and retaining clip.
(9) Install brake lamp switch bracket and switch,
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - INSTALLA-
TION).
(10) Install knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - INSTALLATION).
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER
The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from
the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a
booster problem, first verify the power steering pump
is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
²Check the power steering fluid level.
²Check the brake fluid level.
²Check all power steering hoses and lines for
leaks and restrictions.
²Check power steering pump pressure.
NOISES
The hydraulic booster unit will produce certain
characteristic booster noises. The noises may occur
when the brake pedal is used in a manner not asso-
ciated with normal braking or driving habits.
HISSING
A hissing noise may be noticed when above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied, 40 lbs. or above. The
noise will be more noticeable if the vehicle is not
moving. The noise will increase with the brake pedal
pressure and an increase of system operating temper-
ature.
CLUNK-CHATTER-CLICKING
A clunk-chatter-clicking may be noticed when the
brake pedal is released quickly, after above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied 50-100 lbs..
BOOSTER FUNCTION TEST
With the engine off depress the brake pedal several
times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the
brake pedal using 40 lbs. of force and start the
engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push
back against your foot. This indicates the booster is
operating properly.
ACCUMULATOR LEAKDOWN
(1) Start the engine, apply the brakes and turn the
steering wheel from lock to lock. This will ensure the
accumulator is charged. Turn off the engine and let
the vehicle sit for one hour. After one hour there
should be at least two power assisted brake applica-
tion with the engine off. If the system does not retain
a charge the booster must be replaced.
Fig. 24 Brake Pedal Mounting (With Automatic
Transmission)
1 - PEDAL SHAFT
2 - SHAFT RETAINING E-CLIPS (2)
3 - BRAKE PEDAL
4 - PEDAL BUSHING (2)
5 - PEDAL MOUNTING BRACKET
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 17
PEDAL (Continued)

(6) Position adjuster lever return spring on pivot.
(7) Install adjuster lever.
(8) Attach adjuster cable to adjuster lever. Be sure
cable is properly routed.
(9) Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
A two-piece master cylinder is used on all models.
The cylinder body containing the primary and sec-
ondary pistons is made of aluminum. The removable
fluid reservoir is made of nylon reinforced with glass
fiber. The reservoir stores reserve brake fluid for the
hydraulic brake circuits. The reservoir is the only
serviceable component.
The fluid compartments of the nylon reservoir are
interconnected to permit fluid level equalization.
However, the equalization feature does not affect cir-
cuit separation in the event of a front or rear brake
malfunction. The reservoir compartments will retain
enough fluid to operate the functioning hydraulic cir-
cuit.
Care must be exercised when removing/installing
the master cylinder connecting lines. The threads in
the cylinder fluid ports can be damaged if care is not
exercised. Start all brake line fittings by hand to
avoid cross threading.
The cylinder reservoir can be replaced when neces-
sary. However, the aluminum body section of the
master cylinder is not a repairable component.
NOTE: If diagnosis indicates that an internal mal-
function has occurred, the aluminum body section
must be replaced as an assembly.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 54).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 55).
Fig. 53 Hold-Down Spring And Pin Attachment
1 - SHOE HOLD DOWN SPRING
2 - HOLD DOWN PIN
3 - BACKING PLATE
4 - BRAKE SHOE WEB
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 29
BRAKE PADS/SHOES (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Contact surface of release bearing
damaged.1. Clutch cover incorrect or release
fingers bent or distorted.1. Replace clutch cover and release
bearing.
2. Release bearing defective or
damaged.2. Replace the release bearing.
3. Release bearing misaligned. 3. Check and correct runout of
clutch components. Check front
bearing sleeve for damage/
alignment. Repair as necessary.
Partial engagement of clutch disc.
One side of disc is worn and the
other side is glazed and lightly
worn.1. Clutch pressure plate position
incorrect.1. Replace clutch disc and cover.
2. Clutch cover, spring, or release
fingers bent or distorted.2. Replace clutch disc and cover.
3. Clutch disc damaged or
distorted.2. Replace clutch disc.
4. Clutch misalignment. 4. Check alignment and runout of
flywheel, disc, pressure plate, andùr
clutch housing. Correct as
necessary.
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - CLUTCH
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Nut, slave cylinder 19-26 14-19 170-230
Bolt, clutch cover-5/16 in. 23 17 -
Bolt, clutch cover-3/8 in. 41 30 -
Pivot, release bearing 23 17 -
Screw, fluid reservoir 5 - 40
CLUTCH DISC
DESCRIPTION
The clutch disc friction material is riveted to the
disc hub. The hub bore is splined for installation on
the transmission input shaft. The clutch disc has
cushion springs in the disc hub to dampen disc vibra-
tions during application and release of the clutch.
Various size and design of clutches are used for the
different engine transmission combinations. The cur-
rently used clutches and applications are listed
below.A 281 mm (11 in.) diameter clutch disc is used with
a 3.9L, 5.2L, or 5.9L gas engines (Fig. 4) and (Fig. 5).
A 312.5 mm (12.3 in.) diameter clutch disc is used
with diesel and V10 engines and (Fig. 6).
All the discs have damper springs in the hub. The
281 mm discs have four springs, the 312.5 mm diesel/
V10 disc has nine springs. The damper springs pro-
vide smoother torque transfer and disc engagement.
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 7
CLUTCH (Continued)

should not be disconnected. The individual compo-
nents that form the linkage assembly cannot be over-
hauled or serviced separately.
(1) Tighten cap on clutch fluid reservoir to avoid
spillage during installation.
(2) Position cylinders, connecting lines and reser-
voir in vehicle engine compartment. Locate the clutch
hydraulic line against the dash panel and behind all
engine hoses and wiring.
(3) Insert clutch master cylinder in dash panel.
Install and tighten the nuts to hold the clutch master
cylinder to the dash panel.
(4) Apply a light coating of grease to the inside
and outside diameter of the master cylinder bushing.
(5) Install clutch master cylinder push rod on
clutch pedal pin. Secure rod with retaining clip.
(6) Connect clutch pedal position (interlock) switch
wires.(7) Position clutch fluid reservoir on dash panel
and install reservoir screws. Tighten screws to 5 N´m
(40 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel into the lower dash panel
flange.
(9) Install the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel onto the upper dash panel
stud.
(10) Raise vehicle.
(11) Install slave cylinder. Be sure cap at end of
cylinder rod is seated in release lever. Check this
before installing cylinder attaching nuts.
NOTE: If new linkage is being installed, do not
remove the plastic shipping strap from slave cylin-
der push rod. The shipping strap will break on its
own upon the first clutch application.
(12) Install and tighten slave cylinder attaching
nuts to 23 N´m (200 in. lbs.) torque.
(13) If a new clutch linkage is being installed, con-
nect the clutch hydraulic line (Fig. 37) to the clutch
slave cylinder.
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.
Fig. 36 Clutch Cylinder Push Rod Attachment
1 - PIN
2 - CLUTCH INTERLOCK WIRE
3 - PUSH ROD
4 - CLIP
Fig. 37 Clutch Slave Cylinder
1 - CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE
2 - CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 21
LINKAGE (Continued)

OPERATIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM
The cooling system regulates engine operating tem-
perature. It allows the engine to reach normal oper-
ating temperature as quickly as possible. It also
maintains normal operating temperature and pre-
vents overheating.
The cooling system also provides a means of heat-
ing the passenger compartment and cooling the auto-
matic transmission fluid (if equipped). The cooling
system is pressurized and uses a centrifugal water
pump to circulate coolant throughout the system.
An optional factory installed maximum duty cool-
ing package is available on most models. This pack-
age will provide additional cooling capacity for
vehicles used under extreme conditions such as
trailer towing in high ambient temperatures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRELIMINARY
CHECKS
ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM OVERHEATING
Establish what driving conditions caused the com-
plaint. Abnormal loads on the cooling system such as
the following may be the cause:
²PROLONGED IDLE
²VERY HIGH AMBIENT TEMPERATURE
²SLIGHT TAIL WIND AT IDLE
²SLOW TRAFFIC
²TRAFFIC JAMS
²HIGH SPEED OR STEEP GRADES
Driving techniques that avoid overheating are:
²Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at
end of normal range.²Increasing engine speed for more air flow is rec-
ommended.
TRAILER TOWING:
Consult Trailer Towing section of owners manual.
Do not exceed limits.
AIR CONDITIONING; ADD-ON OR AFTER MARKET:
A maximum cooling package should have been
ordered with vehicle if add-on or after market A/C is
installed. If not, maximum cooling system compo-
nents should be installed for model involved per
manufacturer's specifications.
RECENT SERVICE OR ACCIDENT REPAIR:
Determine if any recent service has been per-
formed on vehicle that may effect cooling system.
This may be:
²Engine adjustments (incorrect timing)
²Slipping engine accessory drive belt(s)
²Brakes (possibly dragging)
²Changed parts. Incorrect water pump or pump
rotating in wrong direction due to belt not correctly
routed
²Reconditioned radiator or cooling system refill-
ing (possibly under filled or air trapped in system).
NOTE: If investigation reveals none of the previous
items as a cause for an engine overheating com-
plaint, (Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐON-BOARD
DIAGNOSTICS (OBD)
COOLING SYSTEM RELATED DIAGNOSTICS
The powertrain control module (PCM) has been
programmed to monitor certain cooling system com-
ponents:
²If the engine has remained cool for too long a
period, such as with a stuck open thermostat, a Diag-
nostic Trouble Code (DTC) can be set.
²If an open or shorted condition has developed in
the relay circuit controlling the electric radiator fan,
a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) can be set.
If the problem is sensed in a monitored circuit
often enough to indicated an actual problem, a DTC
is stored. The DTC will be stored in the PCM mem-
ory for eventual display to the service technician.
(Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL - DESCRIP-
TION).
Fig. 4 Spring Clamp Size Location
1 - SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
7 - 4 COOLINGBR/BE
COOLING (Continued)

ACCESSING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
To read DTC's and to obtain cooling system data,
(Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL - DESCRIP-
TION).
ERASING TROUBLE CODES
After the problem has been repaired, use the DRB
scan tool to erase a DTC. Refer to the appropriate
Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures service informa-
tion for operation of the DRB scan tool.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCOOLING SYSTEM
LEAKS
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT METHOD
A leak detection additive is available through the
parts department that can be added to cooling sys-
tem. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet
light (black light). Pour one ounce of additive into
cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT
position. Start and operate engine until radiator
upper hose is warm to touch. Aim the commercially
available black light tool at components to be
checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause
additive to glow a bright green color.
The black light can be used in conjunction with a
pressure tester to determine if any external leaks
exist (Fig. 5).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from filler
neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to
disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of filler neck
and examine lower inside sealing seat for nicks,
cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect radia-
tor-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal
obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be
sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 6).
Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
Fig. 5 Leak Detection Using Black LightÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
Fig. 6 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
BR/BECOOLING 7 - 5
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
16. Thermostat partially or completely
shut.16. Check thermostat operation and
replace as necessary. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL) .
17. Viscous fan drive not operating
properly.17. Check fan drive operation and replace
as necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH
- REMOVAL) .
18. Cylinder head gasket leaking. 18. Check for cylinder head gasket leaks.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
19. Heater core leaking. 19. Check heater core for leaks. (Refer to
24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING). Repair as necessary.
TEMPERATURE
GAUGE READING IS
INCONSISTENT
(FLUCTUATES,
CYCLES OR IS
ERRATIC)1. During cold weather operation, with the
heater blower in the high position, the
gauge reading may drop slightly.1. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary.
2. Temperature gauge or engine mounted
gauge sensor defective or shorted. Also,
corroded or loose wiring in this circuit.2. Check operation of gauge and repair if
necessary. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
3. Gauge reading rises when vehicle is
brought to a stop after heavy use (engine
still running)3. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary. Gauge should return to normal
range after vehicle is driven.
4. Gauge reading high after re-starting a
warmed up (hot) engine.4. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary. The gauge should return to
normal range after a few minutes of
engine operation.
5. Coolant level low in radiator (air will
build up in the cooling system causing
the thermostat to open late).5. Check and correct coolant leaks. (Refer
to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
6. Cylinder head gasket leaking allowing
exhaust gas to enter cooling system
causing a thermostat to open late.6. (a) Check for cylinder head gasket
leaks. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(b) Check for coolant in the engine oil.
Inspect for white steam emitting from the
exhaust system. Repair as necessary.
7. Water pump impeller loose on shaft. 7. Check water pump and replace as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/WATER PUMP - REMOVAL).
8. Loose accessory drive belt. (water
pump slipping)8. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY
DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING). Check and correct as
necessary.
9. Air leak on the suction side of the
water pump allows air to build up in
cooling system causing thermostat to
open late.9. Locate leak and repair as necessary.
BR/BECOOLING 7 - 9
COOLING (Continued)

(4) Position thermostat housing to intake manifold.
Note the word FRONT stamped on housing (Fig. 20).
For adequate clearance, thismustbe placed towards
front of vehicle. The housing is slightly angled for-
ward after installation to intake manifold.
(5) Install two housing-to-intake manifold bolts.
Tighten bolts to 23 N´m (200 in. lbs.) torque.
(6) Install radiator upper hose to thermostat hous-
ing.
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not,
engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in
wrong direction. Refer to (Fig. 21) for correct 3.9L,
5.2L and 5.9L engine belt routing. The correct belt
with correct length must be used.
(7) Air Conditioned vehicles; Install generator.
Tighten bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install support bracket (generator mounting
bracket-to-intake manifold) (Fig. 16). Tighten bolts to
54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install accessory drive belt (Fig. 17)(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect battery negative cable.(12) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 19 ThermostatÐ3.9L and 5.9L Engines
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - GASKET
3 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
4 - THERMOSTAT
5 - MACHINED GROOVEFig. 20 Thermostat PositionÐ5.2L and 5.9L Engines
Fig. 21 Belt RoutingÐ5.2L and 5.9L Engines
1 - IDLER PULLEY
2 - GENERATOR PULLEY
3 - A/C COMPRESSOR PULLEY
4 - IF W/OUT A/C
5 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
6 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
7 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
8 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER
BR/BEENGINE 7 - 51
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - 3.9L/5.2L/5.9L (Continued)