2001 DODGE RAM boot

REMOVAL
3.9L/5.2L/5.9L GASOLINE ENGINE
(1) Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove nut and lock washer securing starter
motor to mounting stud (Fig. 9).
(4) While supporting starter motor, remove upper
mounting bolt from starter motor.
(5) If equipped with automatic transmission, slide
cooler tube bracket forward on tubes far enough for
starter motor mounting flange to be removed from
lower mounting stud.
(6) Move starter motor towards front of vehicle far
enough for nose of starter pinion housing to clear
housing. Always support starter motor during this
process, do not let starter motor hang from wire har-
ness.
(7) Tilt nose downwards and lower starter motor
far enough to access and remove nut that secures
battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelet
to solenoid battery terminal stud. Do not let starter
motor hang from wire harness.(8) Remove battery positive cable wire harness
connector eyelet from solenoid battery terminal stud.
(9) Disconnect battery positive cable wire harness
connector from solenoid terminal connector recepta-
cle.
(10) Remove starter motor.
5.9L DIESEL ENGINE
(1) Disconnect and isolate negative cables of both
batteries.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Pull back protective rubber boot from solenoid
battery terminal far enough to access and remove
nut securing battery positive cable wire harness con-
nector eyelet to solenoid battery terminal stud (Fig.
10).
(4) Remove nut securing battery positive cable
wire harness solenoid connector eyelet to solenoid
terminal stud.
(5) Remove battery positive cable wire harness
connector eyelets from solenoid terminal studs.
Fig. 7 Continuity Test Between Solenoid Terminal
and Field Coil Terminal - Typical
1 - OHMMETER
2 - SOLENOID TERMINAL
3 - FIELD COIL TERMINAL
Fig. 8 Continuity Test Between Solenoid Terminal
and Solenoid Case - Typical
1 - SOLENOID TERMINAL
2 - OHMMETER
3 - SOLENOID
Fig. 9 Starter Motor Remove/Install - 3.9L/5.2L/5.9L
Gasoline Engine
1 - ENGINE
2 - STARTER MOUNTING FLANGE
3 - STUD
4 - STARTER MOTOR
5 - LOCK WASHER
6 - NUT
7 - BRACKET
8 - BOLT
9 - POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE WIRE HARNESS
10 - POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE WIRE HARNESS NUT
8F - 40 STARTINGBR/BE
ENGINE STARTER MOTOR (Continued)

5.9L DIESEL ENGINE
(1) If equipped, position aluminum spacer to rear
of starter.
(2) Position starter motor to engine.
(3) Support starter and loosely install three
mounting bolts.
(4) Tighten 3 bolts to 43.4 N´m (32 ft. lbs.).
(5) Position wiring eyelets to starter studs and
install nuts. Tighten small nut to 6.2 N´m (55 in.
lbs.). Tighten large nut to 13.6 N´m (120 in. lbs.).
(6) Install protective rubber boot over stud.
(7) Lower vehicle.
(8) Connect battery cables to both batteries.
8.0L GASOLINE ENGINE
(1) Support starter motor and loosely install two
bolts securing starter motor to engine.
(2) Tighten 2 bolts to 67.8 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
(3) Connect solenoid wire to solenoid terminal.
(4) Position battery cable eyelet to starter stud.
Install nut and tighten to 13.6 N´m (120 in. lbs.).
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Connect battery cable.
ENGINE STARTER MOTOR
RELAY
DESCRIPTION
The starter relay is an electromechanical device
that switches battery current to the pull-in coil of the
starter solenoid when ignition switch is turned to
Start position. The starter relay is located in the
Power Distribution Center (PDC) in the engine com-
partment. See PDC cover for relay identification and
location.
The starter relay is a International Standards
Organization (ISO) relay. Relays conforming to ISO
specifications have common physical dimensions, cur-
rent capacities, terminal patterns, and terminal func-
tions.
The starter relay cannot be repaired or adjusted
and, if faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.
OPERATION
The ISO relay consists of an electromagnetic coil, a
resistor or diode, and three (two fixed and one mov-
able) electrical contacts. The movable (common feed)
relay contact is held against one of the fixed contacts
(normally closed) by spring pressure. When electro-
magnetic coil is energized, it draws the movable con-
tact away from normally closed fixed contact, and
holds it against the other (normally open) fixed con-
tact.
When electromagnetic coil is de-energized, spring
pressure returns movable contact to normally closed
position. The resistor or diode is connected in parallel
with electromagnetic coil within relay, and helps to
dissipate voltage spikes produced when coil is de-en-
ergized.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STARTER RELAY
The starter relay (Fig. 13) is located in Power Dis-
tribution Center (PDC). Refer to PDC cover for relay
identification and location. For complete starter relay
wiring circuit diagrams, refer to 8, Wiring Diagrams.
(1) Remove starter relay from PDC.
(2) A relay in de-energized position should have
continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and no
continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go to
Step 3. If not OK, replace faulty relay.
(3) Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (elec-
tromagnet) should be 7565 ohms. If OK, go to Step
4. If not OK, replace faulty relay.
(4) Connect 12V battery to terminals 85 and 86.
There should now be continuity between terminals
30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A
and 30. If OK, perform Relay Circuit Test that fol-
lows. If not OK, replace faulty relay.
Fig. 12 Starter Motor Remove/Install - 8.0L Gasoline
Engine
1 - ENGINE
2 - BATTERY POSITIVE CABLE WIRE HARNESS
3 - NUT
4 - STARTER MOTOR
5 - SCREW AND WASHER (2)
8F - 42 STARTINGBR/BE
ENGINE STARTER MOTOR (Continued)

CHIPPED ELECTRODE INSULATOR
A chipped electrode insulator usually results from
bending the center electrode while adjusting the
spark plug electrode gap. Under certain conditions,
severe detonation can also separate the insulator
from the center electrode (Fig. 33). Spark plugs with
this condition must be replaced.
PREIGNITION DAMAGE
Preignition damage is usually caused by excessive
combustion chamber temperature. The center elec-
trode dissolves first and the ground electrode dis-
solves somewhat latter (Fig. 34). Insulators appear
relatively deposit free. Determine if the spark plug
has the correct heat range rating for the engine.
Determine if ignition timing is over advanced or if
other operating conditions are causing engine over-
heating. (The heat range rating refers to the operat-
ing temperature of a particular type spark plug.
Spark plugs are designed to operate within specific
temperature ranges. This depends upon the thick-
ness and length of the center electrodes porcelain
insulator.)
SPARK PLUG OVERHEATING
Overheating is indicated by a white or gray center
electrode insulator that also appears blistered (Fig.
35). The increase in electrode gap will be consider-
ably in excess of 0.001 inch per 2000 miles of opera-
tion. This suggests that a plug with a cooler heat
range rating should be used. Over advanced ignition
timing, detonation and cooling system malfunctions
can also cause spark plug overheating.
REMOVAL
On 3.9L/5.2L/5.9L engines, spark plug cable heat
shields are pressed into the cylinder head to sur-
round each cable boot and spark plug (Fig. 36).
(1) Always remove spark plug or ignition coil
cables by grasping at the cable boot (Fig. 38). Turn
the cable boot 1/2 turn and pull straight back in a
steady motion. Never pull directly on the cable.
Internal damage to cable will result.
(2) Prior to removing the spark plug, spray com-
pressed air around the spark plug hole and the area
around the spark plug. This will help prevent foreign
material from entering the combustion chamber.
(3) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket
with a rubber or foam insert.
(4) Inspect the spark plug condition. Refer to
Spark Plug Condition in the Diagnostics and Testing
section of this group.
Fig. 33 Chipped Electrode Insulator
1 - GROUND ELECTRODE
2 - CENTER ELECTRODE
3 - CHIPPED INSULATOR
Fig. 34 Preignition Damage
1 - GROUND ELECTRODE STARTING TO DISSOLVE
2 - CENTER ELECTRODE DISSOLVED
Fig. 35 Spark Plug Overheating
1 - BLISTERED WHITE OR GRAY COLORED INSULATOR
8I - 18 IGNITION CONTROLBR/BE
SPARK PLUG (Continued)

CLEANING
The plugs may be cleaned using commercially
available spark plug cleaning equipment. After clean-
ing, file center electrode flat with a small point file or
jewelers file before adjusting gap.
CAUTION: Never use a motorized wire wheel brush
to clean spark plugs. Metallic deposits will remain
on spark plug insulator and will cause plug misfire.
INSTALLATION
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as elec-
trodes can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
When replacing the spark plug and ignition coil
cables, route the cables correctly and secure them in
the appropriate retainers. Failure to route the cables
properly can cause the radio to reproduce ignition
noise. It could cause cross ignition of the spark plugs
or short circuit the cables to ground.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.
(2) Tighten spark plugs to 35-41 N´m (26-30 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(3) Install spark plug cables over spark plugs.
SPARK PLUG CABLE
DESCRIPTION
Spark plug cables are sometimes referred to as sec-
ondary ignition wires.
OPERATION
The spark plug cables transfer electrical current
from the ignition coil(s) and/or distributor, to individ-
ual spark plugs at each cylinder. The resistive spark
plug cables are of nonmetallic construction. The
cables provide suppression of radio frequency emis-
sions from the ignition system.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPARK PLUG
CABLES
Cable routing is important on certain engines. To
prevent possible ignition crossfire, be sure the cables
are clipped into the plastic routing looms. Try to pre-
vent any one cable from contacting another. Before
removing cables, note their original location and
routing. Never allow one cable to be twisted around
another.
Check the spark plug cable connections for good
contact at the coil(s), distributor cap towers, and
spark plugs. Terminals should be fully seated. The
insulators should be in good condition and should fit
tightly on the coil, distributor and spark plugs. Spark
plug cables with insulators that are cracked or torn
must be replaced.
Clean high voltage ignition cables with a cloth
moistened with a non-flammable solvent. Wipe the
cables dry. Check for brittle or cracked insulation.
On 3.9L/5.2L/5.9L engines, spark plug cable heat
shields are pressed into the cylinder head to sur-
round each spark plug cable boot and spark plug
(Fig. 37). These shields protect the spark plug boots
from damage (due to intense engine heat generated
by the exhaust manifolds) and should not be
removed. After the spark plug cable has been
installed, the lip of the cable boot should have a
small air gap to the top of the heat shield (Fig. 37).
TESTING
When testing secondary cables for damage with an
oscilloscope, follow the instructions of the equipment
manufacturer.
If an oscilloscope is not available, spark plug cables
may be tested as follows:
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable
disconnected for longer than necessary during test-
ing. This may cause possible heat damage to the
catalytic converter. Total test time must not exceed
ten minutes.
Fig. 36 Heat ShieldsÐ3.9L/5.2L/5.9L Engines
1 - AIR GAP
2 - SPARK PLUG BOOT HEAT SHIELD
BR/BEIGNITION CONTROL 8I - 19
SPARK PLUG (Continued)

With the engine running, remove spark plug cable
from spark plug (one at a time) and hold next to a
good engine ground. If the cable and spark plug are
in good condition, the engine rpm should drop and
the engine will run poorly. If engine rpm does not
drop, the cable and/or spark plug may not be operat-
ing properly and should be replaced. Also check
engine cylinder compression.
With the engine not running, connect one end of a
test probe to a good ground. Start the engine and run
the other end of the test probe along the entire
length of all spark plug cables. If cables are cracked
or punctured, there will be a noticeable spark jump
from the damaged area to the test probe. The cable
running from the ignition coil to the distributor cap
can be checked in the same manner. Cracked, dam-
aged or faulty cables should be replaced with resis-
tance type cable. This can be identified by the words
ELECTRONIC SUPPRESSION printed on the cable
jacket.
Use an ohmmeter to test for open circuits, exces-
sive resistance or loose terminals. If equipped,
remove the distributor cap from the distributor.Do
not remove cables from cap.Remove cable from
spark plug. Connect ohmmeter to spark plug termi-
nal end of cable and to corresponding electrode in
distributor cap. Resistance should be 250 to 1000
Ohms per inch of cable. If not, remove cable from dis-
tributor cap tower and connect ohmmeter to the ter-
minal ends of cable. If resistance is not within
specifications as found in the SPARK PLUG CABLE
RESISTANCE chart, replace the cable. Test all spark
plug cables in this manner.
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE
MINIMUM MAXIMUM
250 Ohms Per Inch 1000 Ohms Per Inch
3000 Ohms Per Foot 12,000 Ohms Per Foot
To test ignition coil-to-distributor cap cable, do not
remove the cable from the cap. Connect ohmmeter to
rotor button (center contact) of distributor cap and
terminal at ignition coil end of cable. If resistance is
not within specifications as found in the Spark Plug
Cable Resistance chart, remove the cable from the
distributor cap. Connect the ohmmeter to the termi-
nal ends of the cable. If resistance is not within spec-
ifications as found in the Spark Plug Cable
Resistance chart, replace the cable. Inspect the igni-
tion coil tower for cracks, burns or corrosion.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: When disconnecting a high voltage cable
from a spark plug or from the distributor cap, twist
the rubber boot slightly (1/2 turn) to break it loose
(Fig. 38). Grasp the boot (not the cable) and pull it
off with a steady, even force.
INSTALLATION
Install cables into the proper engine cylinder firing
order (Fig. 39), (Fig. 40) or (Fig. 41).
When replacing the spark plug and coil cables,
route the cables correctly and secure in the proper
retainers. Failure to route the cables properly can
cause the radio to reproduce ignition noise. It could
also cause cross ignition of the plugs or short circuit
the cables to ground.
Fig. 37 Heat ShieldsÐ3.9L/5.2L/5.9L Engines
1 - AIR GAP
2 - SPARK PLUG BOOT HEAT SHIELD
Fig. 38 Cable Removal
1 - SPARK PLUG CABLE AND BOOT
2 - SPARK PLUG BOOT PULLER
3 - TWIST AND PULL
4 - SPARK PLUG
8I - 20 IGNITION CONTROLBR/BE
SPARK PLUG CABLE (Continued)

install locks and release tool. Tap the retainer with a
brass or heavy plastic hammer to ensure locks have
been seated.
(8) If valves and/or seats were ground, measure
the installed height of springs. Make sure the mea-
surement is taken from bottom of spring seat in cyl-
inder head to the bottom surface of spring retainer. If
spacers are installed, measure from the top of spacer.
If height is greater than 42.86 mm (1-11/16 inches),
install a 1.587 mm (1/16 inch) spacer in head coun-
terbore. Ensure this brings spring height back to nor-
mal, 41.27 to 42.86 mm (1-5/8 to 1-11/16 inch).
(9) Install the cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER
ASSY
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect spark plug wires by pulling the boot
straight out in line with plug.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover and gasket (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER
HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the rocker arm bolts and the rocker
arm assembly (Fig. 26). Place rocker arm assemblies
on a bench in the same order as removed.
(4) Remove the push rods and place them on a
bench in the same order as removed.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: DO NOT rotate or crank the engine dur-
ing or immediately after rocker arm installation.
Allow the hydraulic roller tappets adequate time to
bleed down (about 5 minutes).
(1) Install the push rods in the same order as
removed.
(2) Install rocker arm assemblies in the same
order as removed. Tighten the rocker arm bolts to 28
N´m (21 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install cylinder head cover and gasket (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(4) Connect spark plug wires.
ENGINE BLOCK
CLEANING
Clean cylinder block thoroughly and check all core
hole plugs for evidence of leaking.
INSPECTION
Examine block for cracks or fractures.
The cylinder walls should be checked for out-of-
round and taper with Cylinder Bore Indicator Tool,
Special tool 6879 or equivalent. The cylinder block
should be bored and honed with new pistons and
rings fitted if:
²The cylinder bores show more than 0.127 mm
(0.005 inch) out-of-round.
²The cylinder bores show a taper of more than
0.254 mm (0.010 inch).
²The cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored.
Boring and honing operation should be closely coor-
dinated with the fitting of pistons and rings so spec-
ified clearances may be maintained.
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK)
REMOVALÐCAMSHAFT BEARINGS
This procedure requires that the engine is removed
from the vehicle.
(1) With engine completely disassembled, drive out
rear cam bearing core hole plug.
NOTE: It is not advisable to attempt to replace cam-
shaft bearings unless special removal and installa-
tion tools are available, such as recommended tool
8544 Camshaft Bushing Remover Installer.
Fig. 26 Rocker Arm
1 - ROCKER ARMS
2 - ROCKER ARM PEDESTALS
3 - RETAINER
9 - 200 ENGINE 8.0LBR/BE
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)

The driver selects a particular gear by moving the
shift lever to the desired gear position. This move-
ment moves the internal transmission shift compo-
nents to begin the shift sequence. As the shift lever
moves the selected shift rail, the shift fork attached
to that rail begins to move. The fork is positioned in
a groove in the outer circumference of the synchro-
nizer sleeve. As the shift fork moves the synchronizer
sleeve, the synchronizer begins to speed-up or slow
down the selected gear (depending on whether we are
up-shifting or down-shifting). The synchronizer does
this by having the synchronizer hub splined to the
mainshaft, or the countershaft in some cases, and
moving the blocker ring into contact with the gear's
friction cone. As the blocker ring and friction cone
come together, the gear speed is brought up or down
to the speed of the synchronizer. As the two speeds
match, the splines on the inside of the synchronizer
sleeve become aligned with the teeth on the blocker
ring and the friction cone and eventually will slide
over the teeth, locking the gear to the mainshaft, or
countershaft, through the synchronizer.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MANUAL
TRANSMISSION
LOW LUBRICANT LEVEL
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the
result of a leak, inadequate lubricant fill or an incor-
rect lubricant level check.
Leaks can occur at the mating surfaces of the gear
case, adaptor or extension housing, or from the front/
rear seals. A suspected leak could also be the result
of an overfill condition.
Leaks at the rear of the extension or adapter hous-
ing will be from the housing oil seals. Leaks at com-
ponent mating surfaces will probably be the result of
inadequate sealer, gaps in the sealer, incorrect bolt
tightening or use of a non-recommended sealer.
A leak at the front of the transmission will be from
either the front bearing retainer or retainer seal.
Lubricant may be seen dripping from the clutch
housing after extended operation. If the leak is
severe, it may also contaminate the clutch disc caus-
ing the disc to slip, grab and or chatter.
A correct lubricant level check can only be made
when the vehicle is level. Also allow the lubricant to
settle for a minute or so before checking. These rec-
ommendations will ensure an accurate check and
avoid an underfill or overfill condition. Always check
the lubricant level after any addition of fluid to avoid
an incorrect lubricant level condition.
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting is usually caused by a low lubricant
level, improper or contaminated lubricants. The con-sequence of using non-recommended lubricants is
noise, excessive wear, internal bind and hard shift-
ing. Substantial lubricant leaks can result in gear,
shift rail, synchro, and bearing damage. If a leak
goes undetected for an extended period, the first indi-
cations of component damage are usually hard shift-
ing and noise.
Component damage, incorrect clutch adjustment or
damaged clutch pressure plate or disc are additional
probable causes of increased shift effort. Incorrect
adjustment or a worn/damaged pressure plate or disc
can cause incorrect release. If clutch problem is
advanced, gear clash during shifts can result. Worn
or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash when
shifting into any forward gear. In some new or
rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to
stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most
cases this condition will decline as the rings wear-in.
TRANSMISSION NOISE
Most manual transmissions make some noise dur-
ing normal operation. Rotating gears generate a mild
whine that is audible, but generally only at extreme
speeds.
Severe highly audible transmission noise is gener-
ally the initial indicator of a lubricant problem.
Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant will
promote rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift rails,
forks and bearings. The overheating caused by a
lubricant problem, can also lead to gear breakage.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Shift transmission into Neutral.
(3) Remove shift boot bezel screws and slide boot
upward on shift lever extension.
(4) Remove shift lever extension from the shift
tower and lever assembly.
(5) Remove bolts attaching shift tower and lever
assembly to rear case. Then remove shift tower and
lever assembly.
(6) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(7) Remove crankshaft position sensor. Retain sen-
sor attaching bolts.
(8) Remove skid plate, if equipped.
(9) Drain transmission lubricant if transmission
will be disassembled for service.
(10) Mark propeller shaft/shafts and yoke/yokes for
installation reference and remove propeller shaft/
shafts.
(11) Disengage harness from clips on transmission
housing.
(12) Support engine with adjustable jack stand
and wood block.
(13) Drain transmission lubricant if transmission
will be disassembled for service.
BR/BEMANUAL - NV3500 21 - 3
MANUAL - NV3500 (Continued)

(5) Fill transmission to bottom edge of fill plug
hole with Mopar Transmission Lubricant.
(6) Install and tighten fill plug to 34 N´m (25 ft.
lbs.).
(7) Check transmission vent. Be sure vent is open
and not restricted.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If a new transmission is being installed, be
sure to use all components supplied with the new
transmission. For example, if a new shift tower is
supplied with the new transmission, do not re-use
the original shift tower.
Make sure transmission front housing mounting
surface is clean. Before installation apply light coat
of Mopar high temperature bearing grease to contact
surfaces of following components:
²input shaft splines.
²release bearing slide surface of front retainer.
²release bearing bore.
²release fork.
²release fork ball stud.
²propeller shaft slip yoke.
(1) Support and secure transmission to jack with
safety chains.
(2) Raise and align transmission input shaft with
clutch disc, then slide transmission into place.
(3) Install and tighten transmission bolts to 54-61
N´m (40-45 ft. lbs.). Be sure front housing is fully
seated before tightening bolts. Install front dust
cover after all bolts are tightened.
(4) Fill transmission with Mopar lubricant. Correct
fill level is to bottom edge of fill plug hole.
(5) Connect backup lamp switch wires.(6) Connect transmission harnesses to clips on
case.
(7) Install crossmember. Tighten crossmember-to-
frame bolts to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
(8) Tighten crossmember-to-transmission insulator
nuts to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install slave cylinder. Tighten cylinder nuts to
23 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(10) Remove jack used to support transmission.
(11) Install strut bolts/nuts, if removed. Also
install oil filter if removal was necessary.
(12) Install and connect exhaust system. Align
exhaust components before tightening clamp and
bracket bolts and nuts. Be sure exhaust components
are clear of all chassis and driveline components.
TWO WHEEL DRIVE
(1) Align and install propeller shaft.
(2) Verify that all linkage components, hoses and
electrical wires have been connected.
(3) Remove any remaining support stands and
lower vehicle.
(4) Install crankshaft position sensor.
(5) Connect battery negative cable.
(6) Install shift tower and lever assembly. Tighten
shift tower bolts to 7-10 N´m (5-7 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the shift lever extension onto the shift
tower and lever assembly.
(8) Install shift boot and bezel.
FOUR WHEEL DRIVE
(1) Install transfer case. Align and position trans-
fer case with transmission jack or aid of helper.
(2) Install and tighten transfer case attaching nuts
to 47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install and connect transfer case shift linkage.
(4) Align and install front and rear propeller
shafts.
(5) Verify that all linkage components, hoses and
electrical wires have been connected.
(6) Check transfer case fluid level. Add Mopar
Dexron II, or ATF Plus if necessary. Correct level is
to edge of fill plug hole. Be sure transfer case is level
before checking or adding fluid.
(7) Check and adjust transfer case shift linkage if
necessary.
(8) Install transfer case skid plate, if equipped.
(9) Install crankshaft position sensor.
(10) Remove any remaining support stands and
lower vehicle.
(11) Connect battery negative cable.
(12) Install shift tower and lever assembly. Tighten
shift tower bolts to 7-10 N´m (5-7 ft. lbs.).
(13) Install the shift lever extension onto the shift
tower and lever assembly.
(14) Install shift boot and bezel.
Fig. 122 Shift Tower Bolts
1 - SHIFT TOWER AND LEVER ASSEMBLY
21 - 40 MANUAL - NV3500BR/BE
MANUAL - NV3500 (Continued)