2001 DODGE RAM flat tire

VEHICLE SAFETY
CERTIFICATION LABEL
DESCRIPTION
A vehicle safety certification label (Fig. 5) is
attached to every Chrysler Corporation vehicle. The
label certifies that the vehicle conforms to all appli-
cable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. The
label also lists:
²Month and year of vehicle manufacture.
²Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The gross
front and rear axle weight ratings (GAWR's) are
based on a minimum rim size and maximum cold tire
inflation pressure.
²Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
²Type of vehicle.
²Type of rear wheels.
²Bar code.
²Month, Day and Hour (MDH) of final assembly.
²Paint and Trim codes.
²Country of origin.
The label is located on the driver-side door shut-
face.
EQUIPMENT IDENTIFICATION
PLATE
DESCRIPTION
The Equipment Identification Plate (Fig. 6) is
located at the left, front of the inner hood panel. The
plate lists information concerning the vehicle as fol-
lows:
²The model.²The wheelbase.
²The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number).
²The T.O.N. (order number).
²The optional and special equipment installed on
the vehicle.
Refer to the information listed on the plate when
ordering replacement parts.
Fig. 5 Vehicle Safety Certification Label
Fig. 6 Equipment Identification Plate
12 INTRODUCTIONBR/BE

(15) If the vibration remains unacceptable, apply
the same steps to the front end of the propeller shaft.
(16) Install the wheel and tires. Lower the vehicle.
RUNOUT
(1) Remove dirt, rust, paint and undercoating from
the propeller shaft surface where the dial indicator
will contact the shaft.
(2) The dial indicator must be installed perpendic-
ular to the shaft surface.
(3) Measure runout at the center and ends of the
shaft sufficiently far away from weld areas to ensure
that the effects of the weld process will not enter into
the measurements.
(4) Refer to Runout Specifications chart.
(5) If the propeller shaft runout is out of specifica-
tion, remove the propeller shaft, index the shaft 180É,
and re-install the propeller shaft. Measure shaft
runout again.
(6) If the propeller shaft runout is now within
specifications, mark the shaft and yokes for proper
orientation.
(7) If the propeller shaft runout is not within spec-
ifications, verify that the runout of the transmission/
transfer case and axle are within specifications.
Correct as necessary and re-measure propeller shaft
runout.
(8) Replace the propeller shaft if the runout still
exceeds the limits.
RUNOUT SPECIFICATIONS
Front of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
Center of Shaft 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
Rear of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
note:
Measure front/rear runout approximately 3 inches
(76 mm) from the weld seam at each end of the
shaft tube for tube lengths over 30 inches. For
tube lengths under 30 inches, the maximum
allowed runout is 0.020 in. (0.50 mm) for the full
length of the tube.
STANDARD PROCEDURES
To accurately check driveline alignment, raise and
support the vehicle at the axles as level as possible.
Allow the wheels and propeller shaft to turn.
(1) Remove any external bearing snap rings, if
equipped, from universal joint so protractor base sits
flat.
(2) Rotate the shaft until transmission/transfer
case output yoke bearing is facing downward.
NOTE: Always make measurements from front to
rear and from the same side of the vehicle.
Fig. 6 Clamp Screw At Position 1
1 - CLAMP
2 - SCREWDRIVER
Fig. 7 Two Clamp Screws At The Same Position
Fig. 8 Clamp Screws Separated
1-1¤2INCH
BR/BEPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 5
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

WARNING
WARNING: DUST AND DIRT ACCUMULATING ON
BRAKE PARTS DURING NORMAL USE MAY CON-
TAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM PRODUCTION OR
AFTERMARKET LININGS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE
CONCENTRATIONS OF ASBESTOS FIBERS CAN
CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY HARM. EXERCISE CARE
WHEN SERVICING BRAKE PARTS. DO NOT CLEAN
BRAKE PARTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR BY
DRY BRUSHING. USE A VACUUM CLEANER SPE-
CIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR THE REMOVAL OF
ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM BRAKE COMPONENTS.
IF A SUITABLE VACUUM CLEANER IS NOT AVAIL-
ABLE, CLEANING SHOULD BE DONE WITH A
WATER DAMPENED CLOTH. DO NOT SAND, OR
GRIND BRAKE LINING UNLESS EQUIPMENT USED
IS DESIGNED TO CONTAIN THE DUST RESIDUE.
DISPOSE OF ALL RESIDUE CONTAINING ASBES-
TOS FIBERS IN SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS
TO MINIMIZE EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND OTH-
ERS. FOLLOW PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE
OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINIS-
TRATION AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
AGENCY FOR THE HANDLING, PROCESSING, AND
DISPOSITION OF DUST OR DEBRIS THAT MAY
CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS.
CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol,
motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing
mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only
fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or
flush brake system components. These are the only
cleaning materials recommended. If system contam-
ination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Also
check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain
and flush the system with new brake fluid if con-
tamination is suspected.
CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent
quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and
DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of con-
taminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers
only to ensure proper antilock component opera-
tion.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temper-
ature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces,
drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on
the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE
661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins
to ensure proper operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 5
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 7
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

(4) Bleed base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE)
WHEEL CYLINDERS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove tire and wheel
assembly.
(2) Remove brake drum.
(3) Lift adjuster lever away from adjuster screw.
Then turn screw star wheel until screw is fully
retracted.
(4) Remove brake shoe return springs, adjuster
spring and adjuster screw. Move upper ends of brake
shoes apart to provide removal clearance for wheel
cylinder links.
(5) Disconnect brake line from wheel cylinder.
(6) Remove wheel cylinder attaching screws and
remove cylinder from support plate
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove push rods and boots (Fig. 58).
(2) Press pistons, cups and spring and expander
out of cylinder bore.
(3) Remove bleed screw.
CLEANING
Clean the cylinder and pistons with clean brake
fluid or brake cleaner only. Do not use any other
cleaning agents.
Dry the cylinder and pistons with compressed air.
Do not use rags or shop towels to dry the cylindercomponents. Lint from cloth material will adhere to
the cylinder bores and pistons.
INSPECTION
Inspect the cylinder bore. Light discoloration and
dark stains in the bore are normal and will not
impair cylinder operation.
The cylinder bore can be lightly polished but only
with crocus cloth. Replace the cylinder if the bore is
scored, pitted or heavily corroded. Honing the bore to
restore the surface is not recommended.
Inspect the cylinder pistons. The piston surfaces
should be smooth and free of scratches, scoring and
corrosion. Replace the pistons if worn, scored, or cor-
roded. Do attempt to restore the surface by sanding
or polishing.
Discard the old piston cups and the spring and
expander. These parts are not reusable. The original
dust boots may be reused but only if they are in good
condition.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Lubricate wheel cylinder bore, pistons, piston
cups and spring and expander with clean brake fluid.
(2) Install first piston in cylinder bore. Then
install first cup in bore and against piston.Be sure
lip of piston cup is facing inward (toward
spring and expander) and flat side is against
piston.
(3) Install spring and expander followed by
remaining piston cup and piston.
(4) Install boots on each end of cylinder and insert
push rods in boots.
(5) Install cylinder bleed screw.
Fig. 57 Master Cylinder
1 - MOUNTING NUT
2 - MOUNTING NUT
3 - BRAKE LINES
4 - MASTER CYLINDER
Fig. 58 Wheel Cylinder Components±Typical
1 - SPRING
2 - CYLINDER
3 - PISTON CLIP
4 - BOOT
5 - PUSH ROD
6 - PISTON
7 - BLEED SCREW
8 - CUP EXPANDERS
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 31
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

(7) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry each of the park brake
release handle mounting bracket latch tabs away
from the retaining notches in the instrument panel
receptacle (Fig. 72).
(8) With both of the park brake release handle
mounting bracket latches released, slide the handle
and bracket assembly down and out of the instru-
ment panel receptacle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the park brake release handle to the
instrument panel.
(2) Slide the handle and bracket assembly up into
the instrument panel receptacle until both of the
park brake release handle mounting bracket latches
are engaged with the notches in the instrument
panel receptacle.
(3) Lower the park brake release handle and reach
under the driver side outboard end of the instrument
panel to engage the park brake release linkage rod
end with the lever on the back of the park brake
release handle.(4) Lift the park brake release handle to access
and snap the plastic retainer clip that secures the
park brake release linkage rod to the lever on the
back of the park brake release handle over the link-
age rod.
(5) Reach under the driver side outboard end of
the instrument panel to access and engage the park
brake release linkage rod end to the park brake
mechanism.
(6) Snap the plastic retainer clip that secures the
park brake release linkage rod to the park brake
mechanism on the left cowl side inner panel over the
linkage rod.
(7) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
SHOES
REMOVAL - REAR DRUM IN HAT PARK BRAKE
SHOES - 2500/3500
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the disc brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the disc brake rotor, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL)
(5) Lockout the parking brake cable (Fig. 73).
Fig. 72 Park Brake Release Handle Remove/Install
1 - CLIP
2 - ROD
3 - MOUNTING BRACKET
4 - TRIM STICK
5 - LATCH TABS
6 - PARK BRAKE RELEASE HANDLE
Fig. 73 LOCK OUT PARKING CABLE
1 - LOCKING PLIERS
2 - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 41
RELEASE (Continued)

(5) From behind the bumper, tighten the bumper
mounting nuts.
(6) Install the screws attaching top of headlamp
module to radiator closure panel.
(7) Install park and turn signal lamp.
(8) Install push-in fastener attaching seal to radi-
ator closure panel.
(9) Connect the battery negative cable.
ADJUSTMENTS
LAMP ALIGNMENT SCREEN PREPARATION
(1) Position vehicle on a level surface perpendicu-
lar to a flat wall 7.62 meters (25 ft) away from front
of headlamp lens (Fig. 20).
(2) If necessary, tape a line on the floor 7.62
meters (25 ft) away from and parallel to the wall.
(3) Up 1.27 meters (5 feet) from the floor, tape a
line on the wall at the centerline of the vehicle. Sight
along the centerline of the vehicle (from rear of vehi-
cle forward) to verify accuracy of the line placement.
(4) Rock vehicle side-to-side three times to allow
suspension to stabilize.
(5) Jounce front suspension three times by pushing
downward on front bumper and releasing.(6) Measure the distance from the center of head-
lamp lens to the floor. Transfer measurement to the
alignment screen (with tape). Use this line for
up/down adjustment reference.
(7) Measure distance from the centerline of the
vehicle to the center of each headlamp being aligned.
Transfer measurements to screen (with tape) to each
side of vehicle centerline. Use these lines for left/
right adjustment reference.
VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP
ALIGNMENT
(1) Verify headlamp dimmer switch and high beam
indicator operation.
(2) Verify headlamps are set for low beam opera-
tion.
(3) Correct defective components that could hinder
proper headlamp alignment.
(4) Verify proper tire inflation.
(5) Clean headlamp lenses.
(6) Verify that luggage area is not heavily loaded.
(7) Fuel tank should be FULL. Add 2.94 kg (6.5
lbs.) of weight over the fuel tank for each estimated
gallon of missing fuel.
Fig. 20 Lamp Alignment ScreenÐTypical
1 - CENTER OF VEHICLE
2 - CENTER OF HEADLAMP3 - 7.62 METERS (25 FT.)
4 - FRONT OF HEADLAMP
BR/BELAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR 8L - 21
HEADLAMP UNIT (Continued)

ary. The rotor of the clockspring, including the turn
signal cancel cam lobes rotate with the steering
wheel.
The turn signal cancel cam is serviced as a unit
with the clockspring and cannot be repaired. If faulty
or damaged, the entire clockspring unit must be
replaced. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/RESTRAINTS/
CLOCKSPRING - REMOVAL).
OPERATION
The turn signal cancel cam has two lobes molded
into the lower surface of the clockspring rotor. When
the turn signals are activated by moving the multi-
function switch control stalk to a detent position, a
turn signal cancel actuator is extended from the
inside surface of the multi-function switch housing
toward the center of the steering column and theturn signal cancel cam. When the steering wheel is
rotated during a turning maneuver, one of the two
turn signal cancel cam lobes will contact the turn sig-
nal cancel actuator. The cancel actuator latches
against the cancel cam rotation in the direction oppo-
site that which is signaled. In other words, if the left
turn signal detent is selected, the lobes of the cancel
cam will ratchet past the cancel actuator when the
steering wheel is rotated to the left, but will unlatch
the cancel actuator as the steering wheel rotates to
the right and returns to center, which will cancel the
turn signal event and release the control stalk from
the detent so it returns to the neutral Off position.
UNDERHOOD LAMP
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Insert a small flat blade in the access slot
between the lamp base and lamp lens.
(3) Pry the lamp lens upward and remove the
lamp lens (Fig. 31).
(4) Depress the bulb terminal inward (Fig. 32) to
release the bulb.
Fig. 30 Tail, Brake, Turn Signal and Back-up Lamp
Bulb
1 - TAIL LAMP
2 - SCREW
3 - LIGHTING HARNESS
4 - BULB
5 - RETAINING CLIP
6 - RETAINING STUDS
Fig. 31 Underhood Lamp Lens
1 - LAMP
2 - LAMP LENS
BR/BELAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR 8L - 31
TURN SIGNAL CANCEL CAM (Continued)