2001 CHRYSLER VOYAGER air condition

(3) Using a suitable filter wrench, turn oil filter
(Fig. 89) counterclockwise to remove.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and check filter mounting surface. The
surface must be smooth, flat and free of debris or
pieces of gasket.
(2) Lubricate new oil filter gasket with clean
engine oil.
(3) Screw oil filter (Fig. 89) on until the gasket
contacts base. Tighten to 21 N´m (15 ft. lbs.).
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist and drain engine oil.
(2) Remove structural collar. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER -
REMOVAL)
(3) Remove air conditioning compressor bracket to
oil pan bolt.
(4) Remove bolts attaching oil pan.
(5) Remove oil pan.
(6) Clean oil pan and all gasket surfaces.
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply MopartEngine RTV GEN II at the oil
pump to engine block parting line (Fig. 90).
(2) Install the oil pan gasket to the block.
(3) Install pan and tighten the screws to 12 N´m
(105 in. lbs.).
(4) Install air conditioning compressor bracket to
oil pan bolt.
(5) Install structural collar. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - INSTAL-
LATION)
(6) Lower vehicle and fill engine crankcase with
proper oil to correct level.
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove timing belt. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove timing belt rear cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL)
(5) Remove crankshaft sprocket using Special
Tools 6793 and C-4685-C2 (Fig. 91).
(6) Remove crankshaft key (Fig. 92).
(7) Remove oil pick-up tube.
(8) Remove oil pump (Fig. 93) and front crankshaft
seal.
Fig. 89 Oil Filter
Fig. 90 Oil Pan Sealing - Typical
1 - SEALER LOCATIONS
9 - 52 ENGINE 2.4LRS
OIL FILTER (Continued)

INSTALLATION
REAR COVER
(1) Install timing belt rear cover and bolts (Fig.
115).
CAUTION: Do not use an impact wrench for tighten-
ing camshaft sprocket bolt. Damage to the timing
locating pin can occur. Hand tighten using a
wrench ONLY.
(2) Install camshaft sprockets. Hold sprockets with
Special Tool 6848 and tighten center bolt to 101 N´m
(75 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install timing belt idler pulley and tighten
mounting bolt to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install timing belt. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION)
(5) Install engine mount bracket and tighten bolts
to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 113).
(6) Install front covers.
FRONT COVER
(1) Install timing belt front covers (Fig. 112).
Tighten fasteners to 7 N´m (60 in. lbs.).
(2) Install generator drive belt tensioner. (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/BELT TEN-
SIONERS - INSTALLATION)
(3) Install crankshaft vibration damper. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION)
TIMING BELT AND
SPROCKET(S)
REMOVAL - TIMING BELT
(1) Remove air cleaner upper cover, housing, and
clean air tube.
(2) Remove make-up air hose from cylinder head
cover.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Remove right front wheel.
(5) Remove right inner splash shield.
(6) Remove accessory drive belts. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/BELT TENSION-
ERS - REMOVAL)
(7) Remove crankshaft vibration damper. (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - REMOVAL)
(8) Remove air conditioner/generator belt tensioner
and pulley assembly. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/BELT TENSIONERS - REMOVAL)
(9) Remove timing belt lower front cover bolts and
remove cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Remove bolts attaching timing belt upper
front cover and remove cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S)
- REMOVAL)
(12) Remove right engine mount. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/RIGHT MOUNT -
REMOVAL)
(13) Remove engine mount bracket (Fig. 116).
CAUTION: When aligning crankshaft and camshaft
timing marks always rotate engine from crankshaft.
Camshaft should not be rotated after timing belt is
removed. Damage to valve components may occur.
Always align timing marks before removing timing
belt.
(14) Before the removal of the timing belt, rotate
crankshaft until the TDC mark on oil pump housing
aligns with the TDC mark on crankshaft sprocket
(trailing edge of sprocket tooth) (Fig. 117).
Fig. 115 Timing Belt Rear Cover
1 - BOLTS - REAR COVER 7 N´m (60 in. lbs.)
2 - BOLTS - REAR COVER 28 N´m (250 in .lbs.)
3 - TIMING BELT TENSIONER
RSENGINE 2.4L9-61
TIMING BELT COVER(S) (Continued)

(5) Remove the pull pin or Allen wrench from the
belt tensioner.
(6) Once the timing belt has been installed and
tensioner released, rotate the crankshaft two (2) com-
plete revolutions. Verify that the TDC marks on
crankshaft and timing marks on the camshafts are
aligned as shown in (Fig. 123).
(7) Install engine mount bracket to engine (Fig.
116).
(8) Install timing belt front covers and bolts.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)
(9) Install air conditioning/generator belt tensioner
and pulley. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY
DRIVE/BELT TENSIONERS - INSTALLATION)
(10) Install right engine mount. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/RIGHT MOUNT -
INSTALLATION)(11) Install crankshaft vibration damper. (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - INSTALLATION)
(12) Install accessory drive belts. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION)
(13) Install drive belt splash shield.
(14) Install right front wheel.
(15) Connect make-up air hose to cylinder head
cover.
(16) Install air cleaner housing, upper cover, and
clean air tube.
TIMING BELT TENSIONER &
PULLEY
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the timing belt. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove timing belt idler pulley.
(3) Hold camshaft sprocket with Special Tool 6847
while removing bolt (Fig. 124). Remove both cam
sprockets.
Fig. 122 Timing Belt - Installation
1 - ROTATE CAMSHAFT SPROCKET TO TAKE UP BELT SLACK
2 - CAMSHAFT TIMING MARKS 1/2 NOTCH LOCATION
3 - CRANKSHAFT AT TDC
4 - INSTALL BELT IN THIS DIRECTION
Fig. 123 Crankshaft and Camshaft Timing
1 - CAMSHAFT TIMING MARKS
2 - CRANKSHAFT TDC MARKS
3 - TRAILING EDGE OF SPROCKET TOOTH
9 - 64 ENGINE 2.4LRS
TIMING BELT AND SPROCKET(S) (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE STALLS
OR IDLES
ROUGH1. Idle speed too low. 1. Test minimum air flow. (Refer to
Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
2. Incorrect fuel mixture. 2. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
3. Intake manifold leakage. 3. Inspect intake manifold, manifold gasket,
and vacuum hoses.
4. Faulty ignition coil(s). 4. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to
Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
ENGINE LOSS OF
POWER1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped plugs. 1. Clean plugs and set gap.
2. Contamination in fuel system. 2. Clean system and replace fuel filter.
3. Faulty fuel pump. 3. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to
Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
4. Incorrect valve timing. 4. Correct valve timing.
5. Leaking cylinder head gasket. 5. Replace cylinder head gasket.
6. Low compression. 6. Test compression of each cylinder.
7. Burned, warped, or pitted valves. 7. Replace valves.
8. Plugged or restricted exhaust system. 8. Perform exhaust restriction test. (Refer to
11 - EXHAUST SYSTEM - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING) Install new parts, as necessary.
9. Faulty ignition coil(s). 9. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to
Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
ENGINE MISSES
ON
ACCELERATION1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. 1. Clean spark plugs and set gap.
2. Contamination in Fuel System. 2. Clean fuel system and replace fuel filter.
3. Burned, warped, or pitted valves. 3. Replace valves.
4. Faulty ignition coil(s). 4. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to
Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
ENGINE MISSES
AT HIGH SPEED1. Dirty or incorrect spark plug gap. 1. Clean spark plugs and set gap.
2. Faulty ignition coil(s). 2. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to
Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
3. Dirty fuel injector(s). Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to
Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
4. Contamination in fuel system. 4. Clean system and replace fuel filter.
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-75
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE MECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NOISY VALVES 1. High or low oil level in crankcase. 1. Check and correct engine oil level.
2. Thin or diluted oil. 2. Change oil to correct viscosity.
3. Thick oil 3. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter again.
4. Low oil pressure. 4. Check and correct engine oil level.
5. Dirt in tappets/lash adjusters. 5. Replace rocker arm/hydraulic lash
adjuster assembly.
6. Worn rocker arms. 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker arms.
7. Worn tappets/lash adjusters. 7. Install new rocker arm/hydraulic lash
adjuster assembly.
8. Worn valve guides. 8. Replace cylinder head assembly.
9. Excessive runout of valve seats on valve
faces.9. Grind valve seats and valves.
10. Missing adjuster pivot. 10. Replace rocker arm/hydraulic lash
adjuster assembly.
CONNECTING
ROD NOISE1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil pump
relief valve and spring.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Thick oil 4. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter again.
5. Excessive bearing clearance. 5. Measure bearings for correct clearance.
Repair as necessary.
6. Connecting rod journal out-of-round. 6. Replace crankshaft or grind surface.
7. Misaligned connecting rods. 7. Replace bent connecting rods.
MAIN BEARING
NOISE1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil pump
relief valve and spring.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Thick oil 4. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter again.
5. Excessive bearing clearance. 5. Measure bearings for correct clearance.
Repair as necessary.
6. Excessive end play. 6. Check thrust bearing for wear on flanges.
7. Crankshaft journal out-of-round or worn. 7. Replace crankshaft or grind journals.
8. Loose flywheel or torque converter. 8. Tighten to correct torque.
9 - 76 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL PRESSURE
DROP1. Low oil level. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Install new sending unit.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check sending unit and main bearing oil
clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Install new oil filter.
5. Worn parts in oil pump. 5. Replace worn parts or pump.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil to correct viscosity.
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 7. Remove valve and inspect, clean, or
replace.
8. Oil pump suction tube loose. 8. Remove oil pan and install new tube or
clean, if necessary.
9. Oil pump cover warped or cracked. 9. Install new oil pump.
10. Excessive bearing clearance. 10. Measure bearings for correct clearance.
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated gaskets. 1. Replace gasket(s).
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous metal
part.2. Tighten, repair or replace the part.
3. Misaligned or deteriorated cup or
threaded plug.3. Replace as necessary.
OIL
CONSUMPTION
OR SPARK
PLUGS FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check system and repair as necessary.
(Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL/
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS/PCV VALVE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings. 2. Hone cylinder bores. Install new rings.
3. Carbon in oil ring slots. 3. Install new rings.
4. Rings fitted too tightly in grooves. 4. Remove rings and check grooves. If
groove is not proper width, replace piston.
5. Worn valve guide(s). 5. Replace cylinder head assembly.
6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or damaged. 6. Replace seal(s).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-77
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible thecrankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.
(4) Disconnect the ignition coil electrical connector.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gage adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer with cable adaptors to the DRBIIIt.
(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gage. Record this pressure as #1 cylinder
pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
9 - 78 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum, with 552 kPa (80 psi) rec-
ommended.
Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage per cylinder.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING
BEARING CLEARANCE USING PLASTIGAGE
Engine crankshaft bearing clearances can be deter-
mined by use of Plastigage or equivalent. The follow-
ing is the recommended procedure for the use of
Plastigage:(1) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(2) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the cap approximately
6.35 mm (1/4 in.) off center and away from the oil
holes (Fig. 3). (In addition, suspected areas can be
checked by placing the Plastigage in the suspected
area). Torque the bearing cap bolts of the bearing
being checked to the proper specifications.
(3) Remove the bearing cap and compare the
width of the flattened Plastigage with the metric
scale provided on the package. Locate the band clos-
est to the same width. This band shows the amount
of clearance in thousandths of a millimeter. Differ-
ences in readings between the ends indicate the
amount of taper present. Record all readings taken.
Compare clearance measurements to specs found in
engine specifications (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECI-
FICATIONS).Plastigage generally is accompa-
nied by two scales. One scale is in inches, the
other is a metric scale.
NOTE: Plastigage is available in a variety of clear-
ance ranges. Use the most appropriate range for
the specifications you are checking.
(4) Install the proper crankshaft bearings to
achieve the specified bearing clearances. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
Fig. 3 Plastigage Placed in Lower ShellÐTypical
1 - PLASTIC GAUGE
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-79
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)