2001 CHRYSLER VOYAGER coolant temperature

160 000 km (100 000 miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
²Check alignment.
²Flush and replace engine coolant. (3)
180 000 km (110 000 miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element. Replace as necessary.
IMPORTANT: Inspection and service should also
be performed any time a malfunction is observed or
suspected. Retain all receipts.
²Change oil every 12 months regardless of mile-
age.
²The fuel filter/water separator element should
be replaced once a year if the vehicle is driven less
than 40 000 km annually or if power loss from fuel
starvation is detected.
²
Flush and replace engine coolant every 60 months
even if the vehicle is driven less than 160 000 km.
SCHEDULE ªBº
Follow this schedule if the vehicle is operated
under one or more of the following conditions.
²Day or night temperatures are below 0É C
(32É F).
²Stop and go driving.
²Extensive engine idling.
²Driving in dusty conditions.
²Short trips of less than 16.2 km (10 miles).
²More than 50% of driving is at sustained high
speeds during hot weather, above 32É C (90É F).
²Trailer towing.
²Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial ser-
vice).
10 000 km (6 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element.
20 000 km (12 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
²Check alignment.
30 000 km (18 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element.
40 000 km (24 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
²Check alignment.
²Change manual transaxle fluid.
50 000 km (31 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element.
60 000 km (37 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
²Check alignment.
70 000 km (43 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element.
80 000 km (49 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
²Check alignment.
²Change manual transaxle fluid.
90 000 km (55 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element.
100 000 km (62 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
110 000 km (68 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
²Check alignment.
120 000 km (74 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Change manual transaxle fluid.
130 000 km (80 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
0a - 6 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE - RG - 2.5 L TURBO DIESELRG
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER
BASIC TEST
(1) With engine off, depress and release the brake
pedal several times to purge all vacuum from the
power brake booster.
(2) Depress and hold the pedal with light effort (15
to 25 lbs. pressure), then start the engine.
The pedal should fall slightly, then hold. Less effort
should be needed to apply the pedal at this time. If
the pedal fell as indicated, perform the VACUUM
LEAK TEST listed after the BASIC TEST. If the
pedal did not fall, continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(4) Start the engine.
(5) When the engine is at warm operating temper-
ature, allow it to idle and check the vacuum at the
gauge.
If the vacuum supply is 12 inches Hg (40.5 kPa) or
more, the power brake booster is defective and must
be replaced. If the vacuum supply is below 12 inches
Hg, continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(6) Shut off the engine.
(7) Connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum ref-
erence port on the engine intake manifold.
(8) Start the engine and observe the vacuum
gauge.
If the vacuum is still low, check the engine tune
and repair as necessary. If the vacuum is above 12
inches Hg, the hose or check valve to the booster has
a restriction or leak.
Once an adequate vacuum supply is obtained,
repeat the BASIC TEST.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(2) Start the engine.
(3) Allow the engine to warm up to normal operat-
ing temperature and engine idle.
(4) Using vacuum line pliers, close off the vacuum
supply hose near the booster, but before the vacuum
gauge, then observe the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 1.0 inch Hg (3.3 kPa)
in one minute, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 1.0
inch Hg in one minute time span. If the loss is more
than 1.0 inch Hg, replace the power brake booster. If
it is not, continue on with this test.
(5) Remove the pliers from the hose temporarily.
(6) Apply light effort (approximately 15 lbs. of
force) to the brake pedal and hold the pedal steady.Do not move the pedal once the pressure is applied
or the test results may vary.
(7) Have an assistant reattach the vacuum line
pliers to the vacuum supply hose.
(8) Allow 5 seconds for stabilization, then observe
the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 3.0 inches Hg (10 kPa)
in 15 seconds, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 3.0
inches Hg in 15 seconds time span. If the loss is
more than 3.0 inches Hg, replace the power brake
booster. If it is not, the booster is not defective.
(9) Remove the pliers and vacuum gauge.
REMOVAL - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary to
prevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump the brake
pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
(2) Remove negative battery cable terminal from
battery.
(3) Remove positive battery cable terminal from
battery.
(4) Remove battery thermal guard shield.
(5) Remove battery clamp, nut and battery from
the battery tray.
(6) Remove screw securing engine coolant filler
tube to battery tray.
(7) If the vehicle is equipped with speed control,
disconnect the vacuum hose at the vacuum tank built
into the battery tray.
(8) Remove the two nuts and one bolt securing bat-
tery tray in place. Remove battery tray.
(9) If vehicle is equipped with speed control:
(a) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
the speed control servo.
(b) Remove the two servo mounting nuts.
(c) Lay speed control servo off to the side, out of
the way.
(10) Remove the wiper module (unit). (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MOD-
ULE - REMOVAL)
(11) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
brake fluid level switch in master cylinder fluid res-
ervoir (Fig. 54).
5 - 38 BRAKES - BASERS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

COOLING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
COOLING
DESCRIPTION............................1
OPERATION.............................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING..................3
COOLING SYSTEM LEAK TEST.............3
COOLING SYSTEM FLOW CHECK..........3
COOLING SYSTEM AERATION.............3
COOLING SYSTEM DEAERATION...........3
STANDARD PROCEDURE...................4COOLING SYSTEM - DRAINING............4
COOLING SYSTEM - REFILLING............4
COOLANT - ADDING ADDITIONAL...........4
COOLANT LEVEL CHECK - ROUTINE........5
SPECIFICATIONS.........................6
SPECIAL TOOLS..........................6
ACCESSORY DRIVE.......................7
ENGINE................................13
TRANSMISSION.........................36
COOLING
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM
The cooling system components consist of a radia-
tor, electric fan motors, shroud, pressure cap, thermo-
stat, transmission oil cooler, water pump, hoses,
clamps, coolant, and a coolant reserve system to com-
plete the circuit.
DESCRIPTION - HOSE CLAMPS
The cooling system uses spring type hose clamps.
If a spring type clamp replacement is necessary,
replace with the original Mopartequipment spring
type clamp.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only a original equipment clamp
with matching number or letter (Fig. 1).
OPERATION - COOLING SYSTEM
The engine cooling systems primary purpose is to
maintain engine temperature in a range that will
provide satisfactory engine performance and emission
levels under all expected driving conditions. It also
provides hot water (coolant) for heater performance
and cooling for automatic transmission oil. It does
this by transferring heat from engine metal to cool-
ant, moving this heated coolant to the radiator, and
then transferring this heat to the ambient air.²When engine is cold: thermostat is closed, cool-
ing system has no flow through the radiator. The
coolant bypass flows through the engine only.
²When engine is warm: thermostat is open, cool-
ing system has bypass flow and coolant flow through
radiator.
Coolant flow circuits for the 2.4L and 3.3/3.8L
engines are shown in (Fig. 2).
Fig. 1 Spring Clamp Size Location
1 - SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
RSCOOLING7-1

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
LEAK
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS ªDO NOT OPEN
HOTº ON THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP IS A
SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, THE RADIATOR CAP
SHOULD NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM
IS HOT OR UNDER PRESSURE.
With engine not running, remove radiator pressure
cap and wipe the radiator filler neck sealing seat
clean. The radiator should be full.
Attach the Cooling System Tester 7700 or equiva-
lent to the radiator, as shown in (Fig. 4) and apply
104 kPa (15 psi) pressure. If the pressure drops more
than 13.8 kPa (2 psi) in 2 minutes, inspect all points
for external leaks.
All radiator and heater hoses should be shaken
while at 104 kPa (15 psi), since some leaks occur only
while driving due to engine movement.
If there are no external leaks, after the gauge dial
shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester. Start
engine and run until the thermostat opens, allowing
the coolant to expand. Reattach the cooling system
tester. If the needle on the dial fluctuates it indicates
a combustion leak, usually a head gasket leak.
WARNING: WITH TOOL IN PLACE, PRESSURE WILL
BUILD UP FAST. EXCESSIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP,
BY CONTINUOUS ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BERELEASED TO A SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER
PERMIT PRESSURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate, raise
the engine rpm a few times. If an abnormal amount
of coolant or steam emits from the tailpipe, it may
indicate a coolant leak caused by a faulty head gas-
ket, cracked engine block, or cracked cylinder head.
There may be internal leaks that can be deter-
mined by removing the oil dipstick. If water globules
appear intermixed with the oil it will indicate an
internal leak in the engine. If there is an internal
leak, the engine must be disassembled for repair.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
FLOW
To determine whether coolant is flowing through
the cooling system, use the following procedures:
(1) If engine is cold, idle engine until normal oper-
ating temperature is reached. Then feel the upper
radiator hose. If it is hot, coolant is circulating.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE COOLING SYS-
TEM PRESSURE CAP WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS
FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Remove pressure cap when engine is cold,
remove small amount of coolant Idle engine until
thermostat opens, you should observe coolant flow
while looking down the filler neck. Once flow is
detected install the pressure cap.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
AERATION
Low coolant level in a cross flow radiator will
equalize in both tanks with engine off. With engine
at running and at operating temperature, the high
pressure inlet tank runs full and the low pressure
outlet tank drops, resulting in cooling system aera-
tion. Aeration will draw air into the water pump
resulting in the following:
²High reading shown on the temperature gauge.
²Loss of coolant flow through the heater core.
²Corrosion in the cooling system.
²Water pump seal may run dry, increasing the
risk of premature seal failure.
²Combustion gas leaks into the coolant can also
cause the above problems.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
DEAERATION
As air is removed from the cooling system, it gath-
ers in the coolant bottle. This pressure is released
into the atmosphere through the pressure valve
located in the pressure cap when pressure reaches 96
Fig. 4 Pressure Testing
RSCOOLING7-3
COOLING (Continued)

ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE COOLING
SYSTEM
Establish what driving condition caused the cooling
system complaint. The problem may be caused by an
abnormal load on the system such as the following:
prolonged idle, very high ambient temperature, slight
tail wind at idle, slow traffic speed, traffic jam, high
speed, steep grade.
DRIVING TECHNIQUES
To avoid overheating the cooling system:
(1) Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at
end of normal range.
(2) Do not increase engine speed for more air flow
and coolant flow because the electric motor fan sys-
tems are not responsive to engine RPM. The added
cooling from higher coolant flow rate is more than
offset by increased heat rejection (engine heat added
to coolant).
TRAILER TOWING
Consult the owner's manual under Trailer Towing
and do not exceed specified limits.
VISUAL INSPECTION
If the cooling system problem is not caused by a
driving condition, perform a visual inspection to
determine if there was a recent service or accident
repair, including the following:
²Loose/damaged water pump drive belt
²Incorrect cooling system refilling (trapped air or
low level)
²Brakes possibly dragging
²Damaged hoses
²Loose/damaged hose clamps
²Damaged/incorrect engine thermostat
²Damaged cooling fan motor, fan blade and fan
shroud
²Damaged head gasket
²Damaged water pump
²Damaged radiator
²Damaged coolant recovery system
²Damaged heater core
²Open/shorted electrical circuits
If the visual inspection reveals none of the above
as cause for a cooling system complaint, refer to the
following diagnostic charts.
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING
OFF STEAM AND/OR COOLANT.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
MAY BE ABOVE NORMAL BUT
NOT HIGH. COOLANT LEVEL MAY
BE HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK.1. Pressure relief valve in radiator
cap is defective, or was not
properly seated.1. Check condition of radiator cap
and cap seal. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) Replace cap as
necessary.
2. Incorrect cap was installed. 2. Replace cap as necessary.
3. Incorrect coolant mixture. 3. Check concentration level of the
coolant. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/COOLANT - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) Adjust the ethylene
glycol-to-water ratio as required.
COOLANT LOSS TO THE
GROUND WITHOUT PRESSURE
CAP BLOWOFF. GAUGE IS
READING HIGH OR HOT.1. Coolant leaks in radiator, cooling
system hoses, water pump or
engine.1. Pressure test and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
7 - 14 ENGINERS

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
DETONATION OR PRE-IGNITION
(NOT CAUSED BY IGNITION
SYSTEM). GAUGE MAY NOT BE
READING HIGH.1. Engine overheating. 1. Check reason for overheating
and repair as necessary.
2. Freeze point of coolant not
correct. Mixture too concentrated or
too diluted.2. Check concentration level of the
coolant. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/COOLANT - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) Adjust the ethylene
glycol-to-water ratio as required.
3. Incorrect cooling system
pressure cap.3. Install correct pressure cap.
HOSE(S) COLLAPSE AS ENGINE
COOLS DOWN.1. Vacuum created in cooling
system on engine cool-down is not
being relieved through coolant
recovery system.1. (a) Pressure cap relief valve
stuck. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR PRESSURE
CAP - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
Replace as necessary.
(b) Hose between the radiator and
overflow container is plugged. Clean
and repair as necessary.
(c) Vent at coolant reserve/overflow
container is plugged. Clean vent
and repair as necessary.
(d) Reserve/overflow container is
internally blocked. Clean and repair
as necessary.
INADEQUATE AIR CONDITIONER
PERFORMANCE (COOLING
SYSTEM SUSPECTED).1. Radiator and/or A/C condenser is
restricted, obstructed, or dirty
(insects, leaves, etc.).1. Remove restriction and/or clean
as necessary.
2. Electrical radiator fan not
operating when A/C is operated.2. For test procedure (Refer to
appropriate Diagnostic Information).
Repair as necessary.
3. Engine is overheating (heat may
be transferred from radiator to A/C
condenser). High underhood
temperatures due to engine
overheating may also transfer heat
to A/C components.3. Correct overheating condition.
4. All models are equipped with air
seals at the radiator and/or A/C
condenser. If these seals are
missing or damaged, not enough
air flow will be pulled through the
radiator and A/C condenser.4. Check for missing or damaged air
seals and repair as necessary.
INADEQUATE HEATER
PERFORMANCE.1. Check for a Diagnostic trouble
code (DTC).1. For procedures, (Refer to
appropriate Diagnostic Information).
Repair as necessary.
2. Coolant level low. 2. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE) Repair
as necessary.
RSENGINE7-15
ENGINE (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Obstructions in heater hose
fitting at engine or at heater core.3. Remove heater hoses at both
ends and check for obstructions.
Repair as necessary.
4. Heater hose kinked. 4. Locate kinked area and repair as
necessary.
5. Water pump is not pumping
coolant to heater core.5. When the engine is fully warmed
up, both heater hoses should be hot
to the touch. If only one of the
hoses is hot, the water pump may
not be operating correctly. Replace
components as necessary.
HEAT ODOR 1. Various heat shields are used at
certain driveline components. One
or more of these shields may be
missing.1. Locate missing shields and
replace or repair as necessary.
2. Temperature gauge reading
above the normal range.2. Refer to Gauge Is Reading High
in Temperature Gauge Indicatication
Diagnosis Chart.
3. Radiator fan operating
incorrectly.3. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR FAN - OPERATION)
Repair as necessary.
4. Undercoating been applied to an
unnecessary component.4. Clean undercoating as necessary.
5. Engine may be running rich,
causing the catalytic converter to
overheat5. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information) Repair as necessary.
POOR DRIVEABILITY
(THERMOSTAT POSSIBLY STUCK
OPEN). GAUGE MAY BE READING
LOW.1. The engine thermostat must be
operating correctly for proper
driveability, clean vehicle emissions,
and the prevention of sludge
buildup in the engine oil. Check for
a diagnostic trouble code.1. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information) Replace thermostat, if
necessary.
STEAM IS COMING FROM FRONT
OF VEHICLE NEAR GRILL AREA
WHEN WEATHER IS WET,
ENGINE WARMED UP AND
RUNNING WITH VEHICLE
STATIONARY, OR JUST SHUT
OFF. TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS
NORMAL.1. During wet weather, moisture
(snow, ice, rain, or condensation)
on the radiator will evaporate when
the thermostat opens. The
thermostat opening allows heated
coolant into the radiator. When the
moisture contacts the hot radiator,
steam may be emitted. This usually
occurs in cold weather with no fan
or air flow to blow it away.1. Occasional steam emitting from
this area is normal. No repair is
necessary.
COOLANT COLOR 1. Coolant color is not necessarily
an indication of adequate corrosion
or temperature protection. Do not
rely on coolant color for determining
condition of coolant.1. Check the freeze point of the
coolant. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/COOLANT - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) Adjust the ethylene
glycol-to-water ratio as necessary.
7 - 16 ENGINERS
ENGINE (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
COOLANT LEVEL CHANGES IN
COOLANT BOTTLE.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS IN
NORMAL RANGE.1. Level changes are to be
expected as coolant volume
fluctuates with engine temperature.
The coolant level will also drop as
the system removes air from a
recent filling.1. A normal condition. No repair is
necessary.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE INDICATION DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
IS INCONSISTENT (FLUCTUATES,
CYCLES OR IS ERRATIC).1. Normal reaction to fan and/or
thermostat cycle 1, Examples B
and C. During cold weather
operation with the heater blower in
the high position, the gauge reading
may drop slightly 1, Example D.
Fluctuation is also influenced by
outside temperature and heavy
loads 1, Example E.1. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary.
2. Gauge reading rises when
vehicle is brought to a stop after
heavy use (engine still running) 1,
Example F.2. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary. Gauge reading should
return to normal range 1, Example
A, after vehicle is driven.
3. Gauge reading high after
restarting a warmed-up (hot)
engine.3. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary. The gauge should
return to normal range 1, Example
A, after a few minutes of engine
operation.
4. Temperature gauge or engine
coolant temperature sensor
defective or shorted. Also, corroded
or loose wiring in the electrical
circuit.4. Check operation of gauge or
engine coolant temperature sensor
and repair, if necessary.
CLEANING
Drain cooling system and refill with clean water.
Refer to procedures in this section. Run engine with
radiator cap installed until upper radiator hose is
hot. Stop engine and drain water from system. If
water is dirty; fill, run, and drain system again, until
water runs clear.
INSPECTION
After performing a cleaning/flush procedure,
inspect all hoses, clamps and connections for deterio-
ration and leaks. Inspect radiator and heater core for
leaks.
COOLANT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLANT
CONCENTRATION
Coolant concentration should be checked when any
additional coolant was added to system or after a cool-
ant drain, flush and refill. The coolant mixture offers
optimum engine cooling and protection against corrosion
when mixed to a freeze point of -37ÉC (-34ÉF) to -59ÉC
(-50ÉF). The use of a hydrometer or a refractometer can
be used to test coolant concentration.
A hydrometer will test the amount of glycol in a
mixture by measuring the specific gravity of the mix-
ture. The higher the concentration of ethylene glycol,
the larger the number of balls that will float, and
higher the freeze protection (up to a maximum of
60% by volume glycol).
RSENGINE7-17
ENGINE (Continued)