2001 CHRYSLER VOYAGER weight

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Excessive Steering Free
Play1. Incorrect Steering Gear Adjustment 1. Adjust Or Replace Steering Gear
2. Worn or loose tie rod ends 2. Replace or tighten tie rod ends
3. Loose steering gear mounting bolts 3. Tighten steering gear bolts to specified
torque
4. Loose or worn steering shaft coupler 4. Replace steering shaft coupler
Excessive Steering Effort 1. Low tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Lack of lubricant in steering gear 2. Replace steering gear
3. Low power steering fluid level 3. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
correct level
4. Loose power steering pump drive
belt4. Correctly adjust power steering pump
drive belt
5. Lack of lubricant in ball joints 5. Lubricate or replace ball joints
6. Steering gear malfunction 6. Replace steering gear
7. Lack of lubricant in steering coupler 7. Replace steering coupler
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
PRE-WHEEL ALIGNMENT INSPECTION
Before any attempt is made to change or correct
the wheel alignment, the following inspection and
necessary corrections must be made to ensure proper
alignment.
(1) Verify that the fuel tank is full of fuel. If the
tank is not full, the reduction in weight will affect
the curb height of the vehicle and the alignment
angles.
(2) The passenger and luggage compartments of
the vehicle should be free of any load that is not fac-
tory equipment.
(3) Check the tires on the vehicle. All tires must be
the same size and in good condition with approxi-
mately the same amount of tread wear. Inflate all
the tires to the recommended air pressure.
(4) Check the front wheel and tire assemblies for
excessive radial runout.
(5) Inspect lower ball joints and all steering link-
age for looseness, binding, wear or damage. Repair as
necessary.
(6) Check suspension fasteners for proper torque
and retighten as necessary.
(7) Inspect all suspension component rubber bush-
ings for signs of wear or deterioration. Replace any
faulty bushings or components before aligning the
vehicle.
(8) Check the vehicle's curb height to verify it is
within specifications. Refer to Curb Height Measure-
ment.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SETUP
(1) Position the vehicle on an alignment rack.
(2) Install all required alignment equipment on
the vehicle per the alignment equipment manufactur-
er's instructions. On this vehicle, a four-wheel align-
ment is recommended.
NOTE: Prior to reading the vehicle's alignment
readouts, the front and rear of vehicle should be
jounced. Induce jounce (rear first, then front) by
grasping the center of the bumper and jouncing
each end of vehicle an equal number of times. The
bumper should always be released when vehicle is
at the bottom of the jounce cycle.
(3) Read the vehicle's current front and rear align-
ment settings. Compare the vehicle's current align-
ment settings to the vehicle specifications for camber,
caster and toe-in. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
WHEEL ALIGNMENT - SPECIFICATIONS)
(4) If front camber and caster are not within spec-
ifications, proceed to CAMBER AND CASTER below.
If caster and camber are within specifications, pro-
ceed to TOE which can be found following CAMBER
AND CASTER. Rear camber, caster and toe are not
adjustable. If found not to be within specifications,
reinspect for damaged suspension or body compo-
nents and replace as necessary.
CAMBER AND CASTER
Camber and caster settings on this vehicle are
determined at the time the vehicle is designed, by
the location of the vehicle's suspension components.
This is referred to as NET BUILD. The result is no
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-51
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

required adjustment of camber and caster after the
vehicle is built or when servicing the suspension
components. Thus, when performing a wheel align-
ment, caster and camber are not normally considered
adjustable angles. Camber and caster should be
checked to ensure they meet vehicle specifications.
If front camber is found not to meet alignment
specifications, it can be adjusted using an available
camber adjustment bolt package. Before installing a
camber adjustment bolt package on a vehicle found
to be outside the specifications, inspect the suspen-
sion components for any signs of damage or bending.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust the vehicles
wheel; alignment by heating, bending or by per-
forming any other modification to the vehicle's front
suspension components or body.
If camber readings are not within specifications,
use the following procedure to install the front cam-
ber adjustment bolt package and then adjust front
camber.
CAMBER ADJUSTMENT BOLT PACKAGE INSTALLATION
The camber adjustment bolt package contains 2
flange bolts, 2 cam bolts, 2 dog bone washers, and 4
nuts. This package services both sides of the vehicle.
Use the package to attach the strut clevis bracket to
the steering knuckle after the strut clevis bracket
has been modified. To install and adjust the camber
adjustment bolt package, follow the procedure below.
(1) Raise the vehicle until its tires are not support-
ing the weight of the vehicle.
(2) Remove the front tire and wheel assemblies.
CAUTION: When removing the steering knuckle
from the strut clevis bracket, do not put a strain on
the brake flex hose. Also, do not let the weight of
the steering knuckle assembly be supported by the
brake flex hose when removed from the strut
assembly. If necessary use a wire hanger to sup-
port the steering knuckle assembly or if required
remove the brake flex hose from the caliper assem-
bly.
CAUTION: The knuckle to strut assembly attaching
bolt shanks are serrated and must not be turned
during removal. Remove the nuts while holding the
bolts stationary.
(3) Remove the top and bottom, strut clevis
bracket to steering knuckle attaching bolts (Fig.
7)and discard. Separate the steering knuckle from
the strut clevis bracket and position steering knuckle
so it is out of the way of the strut.CAUTION: When slotting the bottom mounting hole
on the strut clevis bracket, do not enlarge the hole
beyond the indentations on the sides of the strut
clevis bracket (Fig. 8).
(4) Using an appropriate grinder and grinding
wheel, slot the bottom hole in both sides of the strut
clevis bracket (Fig. 8).
Fig. 7 Clevis Bracket To Steering Knuckle Attaching
Bolts
1 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
2 - ATTACHING BOLTS
3 - TIE ROD END
4 - ROTOR
5 - STEERING KNUCKLE
Fig. 8 Strut Clevis Bracket Bolt Hole Grinding Area
1 - UPPER STRUT TO STEERING KNUCKLE ATTACHING HOLE
2 - CAMBER ADJUSTMENT SLOT INDENTATION AREA ON
CLEVIS BRACKET
3 - LOWER STRUT TO STEERING KNUCKLE ATTACHING HOLE
4 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
2 - 52 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT - FRONT.....................1
HALF SHAFT - REAR.....................16PROPELLER SHAFT......................24
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE................26
HALF SHAFT - FRONT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT - FRONT
DESCRIPTION............................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING..................1
HALF SHAFT...........................1
REMOVAL...............................2
INSTALLATION............................5
SPECIFICATIONS.........................7
CV BOOT - INNER
REMOVAL...............................7INSTALLATION............................8
CV BOOT - OUTER
REMOVAL..............................11
INSTALLATION...........................12
OUTER CV JOINT BEARING SHIELD
REMOVAL..............................14
INSTALLATION...........................14
HALF SHAFT - FRONT
DESCRIPTION
All vehicles use an unequal length half shaft sys-
tem (Fig. 1).
The left half shaft uses a tuned rubber damper
weight. When replacing the left half shaft, be sure
the replacement half shaft has the same damper
weight as the original.
All half shaft assemblies use the same type of
inner and outer joints. The inner joint of both half
shaft assemblies is a tripod joint, and the outer joint
of both half shaft assemblies is a Rzeppa joint. Both
tripod joints and Rzeppa joints are true constant
velocity (CV) joint assemblies. The inner tripod joint
allows for the changes in half shaft length through
the jounce and rebound travel of the front suspen-
sion.
On vehicles equipped with ABS brakes, the outer
CV joint is equipped with a tone wheel used to deter-
mine vehicle speed for ABS brake operation.
The inner tripod joint of both half shafts is splined
into the transaxle side gears. The inner tripod joints
are retained in the side gears of the transaxle usinga snap ring located in the stub shaft of the tripod
joint. The outer CV joint has a stub shaft that is
splined into the wheel hub and retained by a steel
hub nut.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HALF SHAFT
VEHICLE INSPECTION
(1) Check for grease in the vicinity of the inboard
tripod joint and outboard CV joint; this is a sign of
inner or outer joint seal boot or seal boot clamp dam-
age.
(2) A light film of grease may appear on the right
inner tripod joint seal boot; this is considered normal
and should not require replacement of the seal boot.
NOISE AND/OR VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise and/or a vibration in turns could
be caused by one of the following conditions:
²Damaged outer CV or inner tripod joint seal
boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the loss
and/or contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint.
RSDIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE3-1

²Noise may also be caused by another component
of the vehicle coming in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a result of one of the following
conditions:
²A torn seal boot on the inner or outer joint of the
half shaft assembly.
²A loose or missing clamp on the inner or outer
joint of the half shaft assembly.
²A damaged or worn half shaft CV joint.
SHUDDER OR VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This problem could be a result of:
²A worn or damaged half shaft inner tripod joint.
²A sticking tripod joint spider assembly (inner tri-
pod joint only).
²Improper wheel alignment. (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of:
²Foreign material (mud, etc.) packed on the back-
side of the wheel(s).
²Out of balance tires or wheels. (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
²Improper tire and/or wheel runout. (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist.
(2) Remove the cotter pin and nut lock (Fig. 2)
from the end of the half shaft.
(3) Remove the wave washer (Fig. 3) from the end
of the half shaft.
(4) Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the
vehicle. (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - REMOVAL)
(5) With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub
from turning,loosen and removethe half shaft
nut.
(6) Remove the two front disc brake caliper
adapter to steering knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 4).
Fig. 1 Unequal Length Half Shaft System
1 - STUB AXLE
2 - OUTER C/V JOINT
3 - OUTER C/V JOINT BOOT
4 - TUNED RUBBER DAMPER WEIGHT
5 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT
6 - OUTER C/V JOINT BOOT
7 - STUB AXLE
8 - OUTER C/V JOINT9 - RIGHT HALFSHAFT
10 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT BOOT
11 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT
12 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT
13 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT BOOT
14 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT & LEFT HALFSHAFT
3 - 2 HALF SHAFT - FRONTRS
HALF SHAFT - FRONT (Continued)

observed if the automatic adjuster is working prop-
erly. If one or more adjusters do not function prop-
erly, the respective drum must be removed for
adjuster servicing.
BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION - BRAKE TUBES AND HOSES
The brake tubes are steel with a corrosion-resis-
tant nylon coating applied to the external surfaces.
The flex hoses are made of reinforced rubber with fit-
tings at each end.
The primary and secondary brake tubes leading
from the master cylinder to the ABS ICU Hydraulic
Control Unit (HCU) or the non-ABS junction block
have a special flexible section. This flexible section is
required due to cradle movement while the vehicle is
in motion (The ICU and non-ABS junction block are
mounted to the cradle).If replacement of these
lines is necessary, only the original factory
brake line containing the flexible section must
be used.
OPERATION - BRAKE TUBES AND HOSES
The purpose of the chassis brake tubes and flex
hoses is to transfer the pressurized brake fluid devel-
oped by the master cylinder to the wheel brakes of
the vehicle. The flex hoses are made of rubber to
allow for the movement of the vehicle's suspension.
INSPECTION - BRAKE TUBES AND HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle. Inspection of brake hoses
should be performed whenever the brake system is
serviced and every 7,500 miles or 12 months, which-
ever comes first (every engine oil change). Inspect
hydraulic brake hoses for surface cracking, scuffing,
or worn spots. If the fabric casing of the rubber hose
becomes exposed due to cracks or abrasions in the
rubber hose cover, the hose should be replaced imme-
diately. Eventual deterioration of the hose can take
place with possible burst failure. Faulty installation
can cause twisting, resulting in wheel, tire, or chassis
interference.
The brake tubing should be inspected periodically
for evidence of physical damage or contact with mov-
ing or hot components.
The flexible brake tube sections used on this vehi-
cle in the primary and secondary tubes from the
master cylinder to the ABS hydraulic control unit
connections must also be inspected. This flexible tub-
ing must be inspected for kinks, fraying and contact
with other components or with the body of the vehi-
cle.
BRAKE PADS/SHOES - FRONT
REMOVAL - FRONT DISC BRAKE SHOES
(DISC/DISC BRAKES)
(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(2) Remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Begin on one side of the vehicle.
(4) Remove the anti-rattle clip from the outboard
side of the caliper and adapter.
(5) Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts.
(6) Remove caliper from caliper adapter and brake
rotor.
CAUTION: Supporting weight of caliper by the flex-
ible brake fluid hose can damage the hose.
(7) Using wire or cord, hang the caliper from the
front strut assembly (Fig. 12). Support the caliper
firmly to prevent weight of caliper from being sup-
ported by the brake fluid hose.
(8) Remove the outboard brake shoe from the cali-
per adapter.
(9) Pull the inboard brake shoe away from the cal-
iper piston until the retaining clip on shoe is free
from the cavity in the caliper piston (Fig. 13).
(10) Repeat the above procedure on other side of
the vehicle.
Fig. 12 Stored Front Disc Brake Caliper
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - BRAKE FLEX HOSE
3 - CALIPER ASSEMBLY
4 - WIRE HANGER
5 - STRUT ASSEMBLY
RSBRAKES - BASE5-13
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

(5) Support caliper to prevent the weight of the
caliper from damaging the flexible brake hose (Fig.
17).
(6) If the brake rotor needs to be removed it can be
removed by removing the retainer clips and then
pulling the rotor straight off the wheel mounting
studs.
(7) Remove the outboard brake shoe from the cali-
per. Brake shoe is removed by pushing the shoetoward the piston, disengaging the two metal protru-
sions on the shoe back, then sliding the brake shoe
off the caliper.
(8) Remove inboard brake shoe from caliper.
Inboard brake shoe is removed by pulling it out of
the caliper piston, until the retaining clip is free of
the piston (Fig. 18).
Fig. 15 Caliper Guide Pin Bolts
1 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
2 - ADAPTER
3 - AXLE
4 - GUIDE PIN BOLTS
5 - DRIVESHAFT (AWD MODELS ONLY)
Fig. 16 Removing/Installing Caliper
1 - LIFT THIS END OF CALIPER AWAY FROM ADAPTER FIRST
2 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
3 - ADAPTER ABUTMENT
4 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE HOLD DOWN CLIP
5 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE
6 - ROTOR
7 - ADAPTER
Fig. 17 Correctly Supported Caliper
1 - WIRE
2 - CALIPER
3 - ADAPTER
4 - ROTOR
5 - INNER FENDER
Fig. 18 Removing Inboard Brake Shoe
1 - INBOARD BRAKE SHOE
2 - HANGER WIRE
3 - CALIPER ASSEMBLY
4 - RETAINING CLIP
5 - PISTON
5 - 16 BRAKES - BASERS
BRAKE PADS/SHOES - REAR DISC (Continued)

(11) Support caliper to prevent the weight of the
caliper from damaging the flexible brake hose (Fig.
86).
(12) Remove the rotor from the hub/bearing.
(13) Remove the horseshoe clip (Fig. 87) from the
retainer on the end of the park brake cable.
(14) Remove the end of the park brake cable from
the actuator lever on the adapter (Fig. 87).(15) Remove the end of the park brake cable from
the adapter. Park brake cable is removed from
adapter using a 1/2 wrench slipped over the park
brake cable retainer as show in (Fig. 88) to compress
the locking tabs on the park brake cable retainer.
(16) Remove the attaching bolt from the wheel
speed sensor (Fig. 89). Then remove wheel speed sen-
sor from hub/bearing and adapter.
Fig. 85 Removing/Installing Caliper
1 - LIFT THIS END OF CALIPER AWAY FROM ADAPTER FIRST
2 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
3 - ADAPTER ABUTMENT
4 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE HOLD DOWN CLIP
5 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE
6 - ROTOR
7 - ADAPTER
Fig. 86 Correctly Supported Caliper
1 - WIRE
2 - CALIPER
3 - ADAPTER
4 - ROTOR
5 - INNER FENDER
Fig. 87 Park Brake Cable Attachment To Actuator
1 - ADAPTER
2 - PARK BRAKE CABLE
3 - ACTUATOR
4 - AXLE
5 - DRIVESHAFT
6 - PARK BRAKE CABLE RETAINER
7 - HORSESHOE CLIP
Fig. 88 Park Brake Cable Removal From Adapter
1 - DRIVESHAFT
2 - 1/2º WRENCH
3 - PARK BRAKE CABLE
4 - PARK BRAKE CABLE RETAINER
5 - ADAPTER
RSBRAKES - BASE5-55
SHOES (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - BUILT-IN
INDICATOR TEST
An indicator (hydrometer) built into the top of the
battery case provides visual information for battery
testing (Fig. 7). Like a hydrometer, the built-in indi-
cator measures the specific gravity of the battery
electrolyte. The specific gravity of the electrolyte
reveals the battery state-of-charge; however, it will
not reveal the cranking capacity of the battery. A load
test must be performed to determine the battery
cranking capacity. Refer to Standard Procedures for
the proper battery load test procedures.
Before testing, visually inspect the battery for any
damage (a cracked case or cover, loose posts, etc.)
that would cause the battery to be faulty. In order to
obtain correct indications from the built-in indicator,
it is important that the battery be level and have a
clean sight glass. Additional light may be required to
view the indicator.Do not use open flame as a
source of additional light.
To read the built-in indicator, look into the sight
glass and note the color of the indication (Fig. 8). The
battery condition that each color indicates is
described in the following list:
²Green- Indicates 75% to 100% battery state-of-
charge. The battery is adequately charged for further
testing or return to service. If the starter will not
crank for a minimum of fifteen seconds with a fully-
charged battery, the battery must be load tested.
Refer to Standard Procedures for the proper battery
load test procedures.
²Black or Dark- Indicates 0% to 75% battery
state-of-charge. The battery is inadequately charged
and must be charged until a green indication is visi-
ble in the sight glass (12.4 volts or more), before the
battery is tested further or returned to service. Refer
to Standard Procedures for the proper battery charg-
ing procedures. Also refer to Diagnosis and Testingfor more information on the possible causes of the
discharged battery condition.
²Clear or Bright- Indicates a low battery elec-
trolyte level. The electrolyte level in the battery is
below the built-in indicator. Distilled water must be
added to a low-maintenance battery with removable
cell caps before it is charged. Refer to Standard Pro-
cedures for the proper battery filling procedures. A
low electrolyte level may be caused by an overcharg-
ing condition. Refer to Charging System for the
proper charging system diagnosis and testing proce-
dures.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HYDROMETER TEST
The hydrometer test reveals the battery state-of-
charge by measuring the specific gravity of the elec-
trolyte.This test cannot be performed on
maintenance-free batteries with non-removable
cell caps.If the battery has non-removable cell caps,
refer to Diagnosis and Testing for alternate methods
of determining the battery state-of-charge.
Specific gravity is a comparison of the density of
the battery electrolyte to the density of pure water.
Pure water has a specific gravity of 1.000, and sulfu-
ric acid has a specific gravity of 1.835. Sulfuric acid
makes up approximately 35% of the battery electro-
lyte by weight, or 24% by volume. In a fully-charged
battery the electrolyte will have a temperature-cor-
rected specific gravity of 1.260 to 1.290. However, a
specific gravity of 1.235 or above is satisfactory for
the battery to be load tested and/or returned to ser-
vice.
Before testing, visually inspect the battery for any
damage (a cracked case or cover, loose posts, etc.)
that would cause the battery to be faulty. Then
remove the battery cell caps and check the electrolyte
level. Add distilled water if the electrolyte level is
below the top of the battery plates. Refer to Battery
System Cleaning for the proper battery inspection
procedures.
Fig. 7 Built-In Indicator
1 - SIGHT GLASS
2 - BATTERY TOP
3 - GREEN BALL
4 - PLASTIC RODFig. 8 Built-In Indicator Sight Glass Chart
RSBATTERY SYSTEM8F-11
BATTERY (Continued)