2001 CHRYSLER VOYAGER heating

CAUTION: A seal on the rear of the master cylinder
is used to create the seal for holding vacuum in the
power brake vacuum booster. The vacuum seal on
the master cylinder MUST be replaced whenever the
master cylinder is removed from the power brake
vacuum booster.
(12) Remove vacuum seal located on the mounting
flange of the master cylinder. The vacuum seal is
removed from master cylinder bycarefullypulling it
off the rear of master cylinder.Do not attempt to
pry the seal off the master cylinder by inserting
a sharp tool between seal and master cylinder
casting.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Different types of master cylinders are
used on this vehicle depending on brake options. If
a new master cylinder is being installed, be sure it
is the correct master cylinder for the type of brake
system the vehicle is equipped with.
CAUTION: When replacing the master cylinder on a
vehicle, a NEW vacuum seal MUST be installed on
the master cylinder.
(1) Install a NEW vacuum seal on master cylinder
making sure seal fits squarely in groove of master
cylinder casting.
(2) Position master cylinder on studs of power
brake booster, aligning booster push rod with master
cylinder piston.
(3) Install the two master cylinder mounting nuts
(Fig. 2). Tighten both mounting nuts to a torque of
25 N´m (225 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: When tightening the primary and sec-
ondary brake tube nuts at master cylinder, be sure
brake tubes do not contact any other components
within the vehicle and that there is slack in the flex-
ible sections of the tubes. This is required due to
the movement between the ABS ICU and the master
cylinder while the vehicle is in motion.
(4) Connect primary and secondary brake tubes to
master cylinder primary and secondary ports (Fig. 2).
Brake tubes must be held securely when tightened to
control orientation of flex section. Tighten tube nuts
to a torque of 17 N´m (145 in. lbs.).
(5) Install wiring harness connector to brake fluid
level switch mounted in brake fluid reservoir (Fig. 1).
(6) Install battery, clamp and nut.
(7) Install battery shield.
(8) Connect positive battery terminal.
(9) Connect negative battery terminal.(10) Fill master cylinder with clean, fresh Mopart
Brake Fluid or equivalent.
(11) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of
brakes.
PEDAL TORQUE SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the instrument panel. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT
PANEL ASSEMBLY - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the HVAC housing. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/
HVAC HOUSING - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the retaining clip at the torque shaft
end of the brake pedal-to-torque shaft link. Remove
the link from the torque shaft. Discard the retaining
clip. It is not to be reused. Replace with a new clip
when reassembled.
(4) Locate the booster input rod-to-brake pedal
torque shaft connection and remove the retaining clip
(Fig. 3). Discard the retaining clip. It is not to be
reused. Replace with a new clip when reassembled.
(5) Remove the four (4) brake booster retaining
nuts from inside the passenger compartment (Fig. 4).
(6) Remove the retaining nut from the brake
booster bracket located above the booster in the
engine compartment (Fig. 4).
(7) Remove the power brake booster bracket.
(8) Rotate the pedal torque shaft and remove it out
the left side of the vehicle.
Fig. 3 POWER BRAKE BOOSTER BRACKET
1 - BOOSTER BRACKET
2 - PEDAL TORQUE SHAFT
3 - RETAINING CLIP
4 - BOOSTER MOUNTING NUTS
RGBRAKES - BASE5a-3
MASTER CYLINDER - RHD (Continued)

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS - CLUTCH SLIPS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
DISC FACING WORN OUT Normal wear. Replace modular clutch assembly (2.4L
Gas) or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
Driver frequently rides (slips) clutch,
results in rapid wear, overheating.Replace modular clutch assembly (2.4L
Gas) or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
Insufficient clutch cover diaphragm
spring tensionReplace modular clutch assembly (2.4L
Gas) or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
CLUTCH DISC FACING
CONTAMINATED WITH
OIL OR GREASELeak at rear main oil seal or
transaxle input shaft sealReplace leaking seals. Replace modular
clutch assembly (2.4L Gas) or clutch cover
and disc (2.5L TD).
Excessive amount of grease applied
to input shaft splinesApply less grease to input shaft. Replace
modular clutch assembly (2.4L Gas) or
clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
Road splash, water entering housing Seal housing. Inspect clutch assembly.
CLUTCH IS RUNNING
PARTIALLY DISENGAGEDRelease bearing sticking or binding,
does not return to normal running
position.Verify that bearing is actually binding. Then,
replace bearing and transmission front
bearing retainer if sleeve surface is
damaged.
Clutch pedal not returning to static
position.Inspect pedal assembly for damage and/or
obstructions. Replace componnents as
necessary.
Cable self-adjuster mechanism (LHD
Models) sticking or binding causing
high preload.Verify that self-adjuster is free to move.
Replace clutch release cable if necessary.
Clutch master cylinder (RHD Models)
or pushrod damaged causing high
preload.Replace clutch master cylinder assembly.
Slave cylinder binding or stuck (RHD
Models).Replace slave cylinder.
CLUTCH DISC FACINGS
HAVE FRACTURED INTO
SMALL PIECESLeak at rear main or transaxle input
shaft sealReplace seal. Replace modular clutch
assembly (2.4L Gas) or clutch cover and
disc (2.5L TD)..
Excessive heat from slippage Replace modular clutch assembly (2.4L
Gas) or clutch cover and disc (2.5L TD).
RGCLUTCH6a-5
CLUTCH (Continued)

(4) Install clutch release bearing/lever assembly
into position by sliding bearing onto input bearing
retainer, and using moderate hand pressure to seat
release lever to pivot ball(s) (Fig. 27) (Fig. 28). A
ªpopº sound should be heard.Make sure LHD lever
is secured to BOTH pivot balls.Verify proper
engagement by lightly pulling outward on lever at
pivot ball location, and then actuating lever and
bearing to ensure proper operation.MASTER CYLINDER - RHD
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove master cylinder to clutch pedal pin
retainer clip. Disengage pushrod from clutch pedal
pin (Fig. 30).
(3) Disengage master cylinder grommet from cowl
panel.
(4) Remove battery and tray.
(5)Diesel models:Remove windshield wiper mod-
ule assembly. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/
WASHERS/WIPER MODULE - REMOVAL)
(6) Discharge Air Conditioning system. (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
REFRIGERANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(7) Remove suction/discharge line from evaporator
junction block.
(8) Using tool 6638A, disconnect clutch hydraulic
ªquick-connectº fitting (Fig. 29).
(9) Remove clutch master cylinder tubing from
retainers in engine compartment.
(10) Remove clutch master cylinder from dash
panel/clutch pedal bracket by rotating 45É clockwise
and pulling outward towards engine (Fig. 30).
(11) Carefully guide clutch master cylinder and
hydraulic plumbing from engine compartment.
Fig. 27 Release Bearing and Lever (LHD)
1 - RELEASE BEARING
2 - RELEASE LEVER
Fig. 28 Release Bearing and Lever (RHD)
1 - RELEASE LEVER
2 - RELEASE BEARING
Fig. 29 Disconnect Quick-Connect Using Tool 6638A
1 - QUICK CONNECT FITTING
2 - TOOL 6638A
RGCLUTCH6a-13
CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER AND BEARING (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Carefully route master cylinder plumbing into
engine compartment as removed and position master
cylinder to dash panel hole.
(2) Rotate master cylinder 45É clockwise, insert
into dash panel hole, engaging clutch pedal bracket.
Rotate master cylinder 45É counter-clockwise, secur-
ing it to pedal bracket (Fig. 30).
(3) Install and secure grommet to dash panel.
(4) Connect pushrod to clutch pedal pin. Install
retainer clip (Fig. 30).
(5) Secure master cylinder plumbing to retainers
in engine compartment.
(6) Connect clutch master cylinder plumbing to
slave cylinder ªquick connectº fitting. An audible
ªclickº should be heard. Verify connection by pulling
outward.(7) Connect A/C suction/discharge line to evapora-
tor junction block.
(8)Diesel models:Install wiper module assembly.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/
WIPER MODULE - INSTALLATION)
(9) Install battery and tray.
(10) Connect battery negative cable
(11) Charge Air Conditioning system. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/RE-
FRIGERANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
MODULAR CLUTCH ASSY -
2.4L GAS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transaxle from vehicle. (Refer to 21 -
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/MANUAL -
REMOVAL)
(2) Remove modular clutch assembly from input
shaft (Fig. 31).
Fig. 30 Clutch Master Cylinder at Pedal Bracket
1 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
2 - RETAINER CLIP
3 - CLUTCH PEDAL PIN
4 - PUSH ROD
Fig. 31 Modular Clutch Assembly
1 - MODULAR CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
2 - INPUT SHAFT
6a - 14 CLUTCHRG
MASTER CYLINDER - RHD (Continued)

ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE COOLING
SYSTEM
Establish what driving condition caused the cooling
system complaint. The problem may be caused by an
abnormal load on the system such as the following:
prolonged idle, very high ambient temperature, slight
tail wind at idle, slow traffic speed, traffic jam, high
speed, steep grade.
DRIVING TECHNIQUES
To avoid overheating the cooling system:
(1) Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at
end of normal range.
(2) Do not increase engine speed for more air flow
and coolant flow because the electric motor fan sys-
tems are not responsive to engine RPM. The added
cooling from higher coolant flow rate is more than
offset by increased heat rejection (engine heat added
to coolant).
TRAILER TOWING
Consult the owner's manual under Trailer Towing
and do not exceed specified limits.
VISUAL INSPECTION
If the cooling system problem is not caused by a
driving condition, perform a visual inspection to
determine if there was a recent service or accident
repair, including the following:
²Loose/damaged water pump drive belt
²Incorrect cooling system refilling (trapped air or
low level)
²Brakes possibly dragging
²Damaged hoses
²Loose/damaged hose clamps
²Damaged/incorrect engine thermostat
²Damaged cooling fan motor, fan blade and fan
shroud
²Damaged head gasket
²Damaged water pump
²Damaged radiator
²Damaged coolant recovery system
²Damaged heater core
²Open/shorted electrical circuits
If the visual inspection reveals none of the above
as cause for a cooling system complaint, refer to the
following diagnostic charts.
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING
OFF STEAM AND/OR COOLANT.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
MAY BE ABOVE NORMAL BUT
NOT HIGH. COOLANT LEVEL MAY
BE HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK.1. Pressure relief valve in radiator
cap is defective, or was not
properly seated.1. Check condition of radiator cap
and cap seal. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) Replace cap as
necessary.
2. Incorrect cap was installed. 2. Replace cap as necessary.
3. Incorrect coolant mixture. 3. Check concentration level of the
coolant. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/COOLANT - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) Adjust the ethylene
glycol-to-water ratio as required.
COOLANT LOSS TO THE
GROUND WITHOUT PRESSURE
CAP BLOWOFF. GAUGE IS
READING HIGH OR HOT.1. Coolant leaks in radiator, cooling
system hoses, water pump or
engine.1. Pressure test and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
7 - 14 ENGINERS

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
DETONATION OR PRE-IGNITION
(NOT CAUSED BY IGNITION
SYSTEM). GAUGE MAY NOT BE
READING HIGH.1. Engine overheating. 1. Check reason for overheating
and repair as necessary.
2. Freeze point of coolant not
correct. Mixture too concentrated or
too diluted.2. Check concentration level of the
coolant. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/COOLANT - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) Adjust the ethylene
glycol-to-water ratio as required.
3. Incorrect cooling system
pressure cap.3. Install correct pressure cap.
HOSE(S) COLLAPSE AS ENGINE
COOLS DOWN.1. Vacuum created in cooling
system on engine cool-down is not
being relieved through coolant
recovery system.1. (a) Pressure cap relief valve
stuck. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR PRESSURE
CAP - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
Replace as necessary.
(b) Hose between the radiator and
overflow container is plugged. Clean
and repair as necessary.
(c) Vent at coolant reserve/overflow
container is plugged. Clean vent
and repair as necessary.
(d) Reserve/overflow container is
internally blocked. Clean and repair
as necessary.
INADEQUATE AIR CONDITIONER
PERFORMANCE (COOLING
SYSTEM SUSPECTED).1. Radiator and/or A/C condenser is
restricted, obstructed, or dirty
(insects, leaves, etc.).1. Remove restriction and/or clean
as necessary.
2. Electrical radiator fan not
operating when A/C is operated.2. For test procedure (Refer to
appropriate Diagnostic Information).
Repair as necessary.
3. Engine is overheating (heat may
be transferred from radiator to A/C
condenser). High underhood
temperatures due to engine
overheating may also transfer heat
to A/C components.3. Correct overheating condition.
4. All models are equipped with air
seals at the radiator and/or A/C
condenser. If these seals are
missing or damaged, not enough
air flow will be pulled through the
radiator and A/C condenser.4. Check for missing or damaged air
seals and repair as necessary.
INADEQUATE HEATER
PERFORMANCE.1. Check for a Diagnostic trouble
code (DTC).1. For procedures, (Refer to
appropriate Diagnostic Information).
Repair as necessary.
2. Coolant level low. 2. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE) Repair
as necessary.
RSENGINE7-15
ENGINE (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLANT
RECOVERY SYSTEM
The cooling system is closed and designed to main-
tain coolant level to the top of the radiator.
(1) With the engineoffand cooling systemnot
under pressure, drain several ounces of coolant from
the radiator draincock while observing the coolant
recovery container. Coolant level in the container
should drop.
(2) Remove the radiator pressure cap. The coolant
level should be full to the top radiator neck. If not,
and the coolant level in the container is at or above
the MIN mark, there is an air leak in the coolant
recovery system.
(3) Check hose and hose connections to the con-
tainer, radiator filler neck or the pressure cap seal to
the radiator filler neck for leaks.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove the lower attaching screws (Fig. 2).
(3) Lower the vehicle.
(4) Remove the upper attaching screw (Fig. 2).
(5)
Disconnect recovery hose from container (Fig. 2).
(6) Remove the recovery container.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect the recovery hose to container (Fig. 2).
(2) Position the recovery container on the frame
rail (Fig. 2).
(3) Install the upper attaching screw and tighten
to 7 N´m (60 in. lbs.) (Fig. 2).(4) Raise the vehicle on hoist.
(5) Install the lower attaching screws and tighten
to 8.5 N´m (75 in. lbs.) (Fig. 2).
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Add coolant to container as necessary. (Refer to
7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
DESCRIPTION
The engine block heater is available as an optional
accessory on all models. The heater is operated by
ordinary house current (110 Volt A.C.) through a
power cord located behind the radiator grille. This
provides easier engine starting and faster warm-up
when vehicle is operated in areas having extremely
low temperatures. The heater is mounted in a core
hole (in place of a core hole plug) in the engine block,
with the heating element immersed in coolant.
OPERATION
The block heater element is submerged in the cool-
ing system's coolant. When electrical power (110 volt
A.C.) is applied to the element, it creates heat. This
heat is transferred to the engine coolant. This pro-
vides easier engine starting and faster warm-up
when vehicle is operated in areas having extremely
low temperatures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE BLOCK
HEATER
If unit does not operate, trouble can be in either
the power cord or the heater element. Test power
cord for continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or 110-
volt test light; test heater element continuity with an
ohmmeter or 12-volt test light.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Disconnect the power cord plug from heater.
(3) Loosen screw in center of heater. Remove the
heater assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean block core hole and heater seat.
(2) Insert heater assembly with element loop posi-
tionedupward.
(3) With heater seated, tighten center screw
securely to assure a positive seal.
(4) Install power cord plug to heater.
(5) Fill cooling system with coolant to the proper
level. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
Fig. 2 COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER
1 - UPPER BOLT ATTACHING TO BATTERY TRAY
2 - COOLANT RECOVERY/RESERVE CONTAINER
3 - UPPER BOLT
4 - HOSE
5 - LOWER BOLT (QTY. 2)
6 - LEFT SIDE FRAME RAIL
RSENGINE7-19
COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER (Continued)

RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
DESCRIPTION
The cooling system pressure cap is located on the
radiator. The cap construction includes; stainless
steel swivel top, rubber seals, and retainer, main
spring, and a spring loaded valve (Fig. 17) .
OPERATION
The cooling system is equipped with a pressure cap
that releases excessive pressure; maintaining a range
of 97-124 kPa (14-18 psi).
The cooling system will operate at higher than
atmospheric pressure. The higher pressure raises the
coolant boiling point thus, allowing increased radia-
tor cooling capacity.
There is also a vent valve in the center of the cap.
This valve also opens when coolant is cooling and
contracting, allowing the coolant to return to cooling
system from coolant reserve system tank by vacuum
through a connecting hose.If valve is stuck shut,
or the coolant recovery hose is pinched, the
radiator hoses will be collapsed on cool down.
Clean the vent valve (Fig. 17) and inspect cool-
ant recovery hose routing, to ensure proper
sealing when boiling point is reached.
The gasket in the cap seals the filler neck, so that
vacuum can be maintained, allowing coolant to be
drawn back into the radiator from the reserve tank.
If the gasket is dirty or damaged, a vacuum
may not be achieved, resulting is loss of coolant
and eventual overheating due to low coolant
level in radiator and engine.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE CAP
Dip the pressure cap in water. Clean any deposits
off the vent valve or its seat and apply cap to end of
the Pressure Cap Test Adaptor that is included with
the Cooling System Tester 7700. Working the
plunger, bring the pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on the
gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold pressure of at
least 97 kPa (14 psi), replace the pressure cap.
CAUTION: The Cooling System Tester Tool is very
sensitive to small air leaks that will not cause cool-
ing system problems. A pressure cap that does not
have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to the tool. Turn tool
upside down and recheck pressure cap to confirm
that cap is bad.
If the pressure cap tests properly while positioned
on Cooling System Tester (Fig. 18), but will not hold
pressure or vacuum when positioned on the radiator.
Inspect the radiator filler neck and cap top gasket for
irregularities that may prevent the cap from sealing
properly.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR CAP
TO FILLER NECK SEAL
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be checked by removing the overflow hose
at the radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 19). Attach the
Radiator Pressure Tool to the filler neck nipple and
pump air into the radiator. Pressure cap upper gas-
ket should relieve at 69-124 kPa (10-18 psi) and hold
pressure at 55 kPa (8 psi) minimum.
Fig. 17 Cooling System Pressure Cap Filler Neck
1 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
2 - MAIN SPRING
3 - GASKET RETAINER
4 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
5 - RUBBER SEALS
6 - VENT VALVE
7 - PRESSURE BOTTLE
8 - FILLER NECK
Fig. 18 Testing Cooling System Pressure Cap
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - PRESSURE TESTER
7 - 26 ENGINERS