1995 JEEP YJ wheel bolts

FUEL FILLER HOSE SPLASH SHIELDÐXJ
VEHICLES
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the screws that attach fuel filler hose
splash shield to wheelhouse panel and frame rail
(Fig. 7).
(2) Remove the hose splash shield from wheel-
house panel and frame rail (Fig. 7).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position fuel filler hose splash shield at wheel-
house panel and frame rail.
(2) Install screws to attach splash shield to wheel-
house panel and frame rail.
FUEL TANK SUPPORT STRAP
SERVICE INFORMATION
XJ fuel tank support straps are attached to the un-
derside of the vehicle via T-slots and hole-slots in the
frame members.
REMOVAL
(1) If equipped, position a support under skid
plate.
(2) If equipped, remove the bolts that attach skid
plate to underbody side rails.
(3) If applicable, remove the support and skid plate
from fuel tank.
(4) Support fuel tank.
(5) Loosen nut from fuel tank support strap bolt to
allow bolt head to be removed from hole-slot in frame
member (Fig. 8).
(6) Remove the strap T-end from frame member T-
slot (Fig. 9).
(7) Separate support strap from fuel tank and re-
move it from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position support strap around fuel tank.
(2) Insert strap T-end in frame member T-slot.
(3) Insert bolt in hole-slot in frame member.
Tighten nut on the bolt until bolt-head and T-end are
seat and strap is tight against the bottom of fuel
tank.
(4) Remove the support from the fuel tank.
(5) If removed, position and support and the fuel
tank skid plate under the fuel tank.
(6) If applicable, install the bolts that attach the
skid plate to the underbody side rails. Tighten the
bolts to 50 Nzm (37 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Remove the support from under the skid plate.
Fig. 7 Fuel Filler Hose Splash ShieldÐXJ Vehicles
Fig. 8 Fuel Tank Support StrapÐXJ Vehicles
Fig. 9 Fuel Tank Support StrapsÐXJ Vehicles
13 - 4 XJÐFRAMEJ

The frame is constructed of high-strength channel
steel siderails and crossmembers. The crossmembers
join the siderails and retain them in alignment in re-
lation to each other. This provides resistance to
frame twists and strains.
FRAME STRAIGHTENING
When necessary, a conventional frame that is bent
or twisted can be straightened by application of heat.
The temperature must not exceed 566ÉC (1050ÉF).
The use of a specially designed heat crayon can de-
termine the desired temperature. Excessive heat will
decrease the strength of the metal and result in a
weakened frame.
Welding the joints around riveted cross members
and frame side rails is not recommended.
A straightening repair process should be limited to
frame members that are not severely damaged.
FRAME REPAIRS
DRILLING HOLES
Do not drill holes in frame side rail top and bottom
flanges, metal fatigue can result causing frame fail-
ure. Holes drilled in the side of the frame rail must
be at least 38 mm (1.5 in.) from the top and bottom
flanges.
Additional drill holes should be located away from
existing holes.
WELDING
Use MIG, TIG or arc welding equipment to repair
welded frame components.
Frame components that have been damaged should
be inspected for cracks before returning the vehicle
to use. If cracks are found in accessible frame com-
ponents perform the following procedures.
(1) Drill a hole at each end of the crack with a 3
mm (O.125 in.) diameter drill bit.
(2) Using a suitable die grinder with 3 inch cut off
wheel, V-groove the crack to allow 100% weld pene-
tration.
(3) Weld the crack.
(4) If necessary when a side rail is repaired, grind
the weld smooth and install a reinforcement channel
(Fig. 4) over the repaired area.
If a reinforcement channel is required, the
top and bottom flanges should be 0.250 inches
narrower than the side rail flanges. Weld only
in the areas indicated (Fig. 4).
FRAME FASTENERS
Bolts, nuts and rivets can be used to repair frames
or to install a reinforcement section on the frame.
Bolts can be used in place of rivets. When replacing
rivets with bolts, install the next larger size diameter
bolt to assure proper fit. If necessary, drill the hole
out just enough to receive the bolt.Conical-type washers are preferred over the split-
ring type lock washers. Normally, grade-5 bolts are
adequate for frame repair.Grade-3 bolts or softer
should not be used.Tightening bolts/nuts with the
correct torque, refer to the Introduction Group at the
front of this manual for tightening information.
FRAME DIMENSIONS
Frame dimensions are listed in millimeter scale.
All dimensions are from center to center of Principal
Locating Point (PLP), or from center to center of PLP
and fastener location (Fig. 5).
TOW HOOKS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the two bolts that attach the tow hook
to the bumper rail and to the frame rail.
(2) Remove the tow hook.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the tow hook on the bumper rail and
frame rail.
(2) Install the attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to
102 Nzm (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
GENERATOR SPLASH SHIELD
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the shield retaining nut and washer
(Fig. 6) from the engine oil pan stud (2.5L engines
only).
(2) Pry the serrated retainers from the frame rail
holes at each side of the vehicle.
(3) Pry the serrated retainers from the fan shroud
holes (Fig. 6).
(4) Remove the shield from the vehicle.
Fig. 4 Frame Reinforcement
JYJÐFRAME 13 - 13

(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Remove the fuel filler cap. Using an approved
portable gasoline siphon/storage tank, drain fuel
tank.
(3) Raise and support vehicle.
(4) Using a small straight blade screwdriver, pull
back the stems of the push clips that secure the fuel
filler neck shroud (located at bottom of left rear
wheel well) in place (Fig. 4). This unlocks the push
clip allowing them to be removed by pulling assembly
out of shroud. Remove shroud.
(5) Disconnect fuel fill hose and fill vent hose from
filler neck (Fig. 5).
WARNING: WRAP SHOP TOWELS AROUND FUEL
HOSES TO ABSORB ANY FUEL SPILLAGE DURING
FUEL TANK REMOVAL.
(6) Disconnect fuel tank vent hose from vent tube.
Disconnect fuel supply and return hoses from tubes
(Fig. 6).
The fuel tank and skid plate are removed as an as-
sembly.(7) Centrally position a transmission jack under
skid plate/fuel tank assembly.
(8) Remove skid plate/fuel tank assembly mounting
nuts (Fig. 7).Do not loosen tank strap nuts.
(9) Lower the skid plate/fuel tank assembly
slightly and disconnect the gauge sender wire con-
nector.
(10) Lower the fuel tank on transmission jack.
(11) Remove tank strap nuts to remove tank from
skid plate.
INSTALLATIONÐYJ MODELS
(1) Place tank into skid plate. Wrap straps around
tank with strap bolts inserted through holes in skid
plate. Tighten strap nuts to 7.3 Nzm (65 in. lbs.)
torque.
Fig. 4 Fuel Filler Neck ShroudÐYJ Models
Fig. 5 Filler Neck HosesÐYJ Models
Fig. 6 Fuel Tank HosesÐYJ Models
Fig. 7 Fuel TankÐRemove/InstallÐYJ Models
JFUEL TANKS 14 - 15

STEERING LINKAGEÐXJ
INDEX
page page
Drag Link............................... 16
Pitman Arm.............................. 17
Service Information........................ 16Steering Damper.......................... 17
TieRod ................................ 16
SERVICE INFORMATION
The steering linkage consists of a pitman arm, drag
link, tie rod, and steering damper. Adjustment
sleeves are used on the tie rod and drag link for toe
and steering wheel alignment.
Refer to Group 2, Front Suspension and Axle for
additional information.
The tie-rod end ball stud seals should be inspected
during all oil changes.
A damaged ball stud seal requires removal of the
seal. Inspect the tie-rod end ball stud at the throat
opening. Check for lubricant loss, contamination, ball
stud wear or corrosion. If these conditions exist, re-
place the tie-rod. A replacement seal can be installed
if lubricant is in good condition. Otherwise, a com-
plete replacement ball stud end should be installed.
Lubricate the tie-rod end with MOPARtMulti-Mile-
age Lubricant, or equivalent product.
Use a Puller tool C-3894-A for tie rod removal.
Failure to use this tool could damage the ball
stud and seal (Fig. 1).
TIE ROD
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cotter pins and nuts at the tie rod
ball studs and drag link (Fig. 2).
(2) Loosen the ball studs with a puller tool to re-
move the tie rod.(3) If necessary, loosen the end clamp bolts and re-
move the tie rod ends from the tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) If necessary, install the tie rod ends in the tube
(Fig. 2). Position the tie rod clamp as shown (Fig. 3)
and tighten to 27 Nzm (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the tie rod on the drag link and steering
knuckle. Install the retaining nuts.
(3) Tighten the ball stud nut on the steering
knuckle to 47 Nzm (35 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the
ball stud nut to drag link to 75 Nzm (55 ft. lbs.)
torque. Install new cotter pins.
DRAG LINK
REMOVAL
The drag link ball stud cannot be disassem-
bled for service.
(1) Remove the steering damper ball stud from the
drag link with a puller tool.
(2) Remove the drag link from the steering knuckle
with a puller tool. Remove the same for tie rod and
pitman arm.
(3) If necessary, loosen the end clamp bolts and re-
move the tie rod end from the link.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the drag link adjustment sleeve and tie
rod end. Position clamp bolts as shown (Fig. 3).
(2) Position the drag link at the steering linkage
(Fig. 2).
Install the nut that attach the drag link to the
steering knuckle. Do the same for the tie rod and pit-
man arm.
(3) Tighten the nut at the steering knuckle to 47
Nzm (35 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the pitman and tie
rod ball stud nuts to 75 Nzm (55 ft. lbs.) torque. In-
stall new cotter pins.
(4) Install the steering damper onto the drag link.
Tighten the nut to 47 Nzm (35 ft. lbs.) torque. Install
a new cotter pin.
Fig. 1 Ball Stud Removal
19 - 16 STEERINGJ

(3) If necessary, loosen the end clamp bolts and re-
move the tie rod end from the tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) If necessary, install the tie rod end in the tube
(Fig. 2). Position the tie rod clamp as shown (Fig. 3).
Tighten the ball-stud end clamp bolts to 49 Nzm (36 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the tie rod on the drag link and steering
knuckles. Install the retaining nuts. Install the steer-
ing damper to the tie rod.
(3) Tighten the ball stud nut on the steering
knuckle to 47 Nzm (35 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the
ball stud nut to drag link to 75 Nzm (55 ft. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the steering damper nut to 74 Nzm
(55 ft. lbs.) torque. Install new cotter pins.
DRAG LINK
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cotter pins and nuts at the tie rod
and pitman arm (Fig. 2).
(2) Remove the drag link from the tie rod and pit-
man arm with a puller tool.
(3) If necessary, loosen the end clamp bolts and re-
move the tie rod ends from the tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the drag link adjustment sleeve and tie
rod ends. Position clamp bolts as shown (Fig. 3).
(2) Position the drag link at the steering linkage
(Fig. 2).
Install the drag link to tie rod and pitman arm.
(3) Tighten the nut at the pitman arm to 74 Nzm
(55 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the tie rod ball stud nut
to 75 Nzm (55 ft. lbs.) torque. Install new cotter pins.
STEERING DAMPER
REMOVAL
(1) Place the front wheels in a straight-ahead position.
(2) Remove the steering damper retaining nut and
bolt from the axle bracket (Fig. 2).
(3) Remove the cotter pin and nut from the ball
stud at the tie rod (Fig. 2).
(4) Remove the steering damper ball stud from the
tie rod with a puller tool.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the steering damper to the axle bracket
and tie rod.
(2) Install the steering damper bolt in the axle
bracket. Tighten the nut to 74 Nzm (55 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the ball stud nut at the tie rod. Tighten
the nut to 74 Nzm (55 ft. lbs.) torque. Install a new
cotter pin.
PITMAN ARM
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cotter pin and nut from the drag
link at the pitman arm.
(2) Remove the drag link ball stud from the pit-
man arm with a puller.
(3) Remove the nut and washer from the steering
gear shaft. Mark the pitman shaft and pitman arm
for installation reference. Remove the pitman arm
from steering gear with Puller C-4150-A (Fig. 4).
INSTALLATION
(1) Align and install the pitman arm on steering
gear shaft.
(2) Install the washer and nut on the shaft.
Tighten the nut to 251 Nzm (185 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install drag link ball stud to pitman arm (Fig.
4). Install and tighten nut to 74 Nzm (55 ft. lbs.)
torque. Install a new cotter pin.
Fig. 4 Pitman Arm Removal
Fig. 3 Tie Rod/Drag Link Clamp Bolt
19 - 20 STEERINGJ

PITMAN SHAFT SEALSÐIN CAR REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove pitman arm from gear. Refer to Pitman
Arm Removal in Steering Linkage.
(2) Clean exposed end of pitman shaft and hous-
ing. Use a wire brush to clean the shaft splines.
(3) Remove retaining ring with snap ring pliers
(Fig. 2).
CAUTION: Use care not to score the housing bore
when prying out seals and washers.
(4) Remove backup washer and double lip seal
with screwdriver.
²Start the engine and turn the steering wheel fully
to the LEFT to force out the seals and washers.
²Stop the engine
(5) Remove backup washer and single lip seal with
screwdriver.
(6) Inspect the housing for burrs and remove if
necessary. Inspect the pitman shaft seal surface for
roughness and pitting. If pitted replace shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install single lip seal with Installer or a suit-
able size deep socket (Fig. 3).
(2) Coat the double lip seal and washer with
grease.
(3) Install the backup washer.
(4) Install the double lip seal.
(5) Install the backup washer.
(6) Install the retainer ring with snap ring pliers.
(7) Center the steering gear.
(8) Install the pitman arm. Refer to Pitman Arm
Installation in Steering Linkage.(9) Add power steering fluid. Refer to Power Steer-
ing Initial Operation.
INTERMEDIATEÐCOUPLING SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Place the front wheels in the straight ahead po-
sition.
(2) Remove the shaft pinch bolt at the steering
gear and column (Fig. 4, 5). Unbolt steering gear
from frame rail to remove shaft. Refer to Steering
Gear Replacement in this section.
INSTALLATION
(1) Align the intermediate (coupler) shaft to the
steering gear and column.
(2) Position the steering gear on the frame. Refer
to Steering Gear Replacement in this section.
(3) Install and tighten the pinch bolts to 34 Nzm
(25 ft. lbs.) torque.
STEERING GEAR REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
(1) Place the front wheels in the straight ahead po-
sition with the steering wheel centered.
(2) Disconnect and cap the fluid hoses from steer-
ing gear. Refer to Pressure and Return Hose Replace-
ment in this Group.
(3) Remove the column coupler shaft from the gear.
Refer to the removal procedures in this section.
(4) Remove pitman arm from gear. Refer to Pitman
Arm Removal in the Steering Linkage section.
Fig. 2 Pitman Shaft Seals
Fig. 3 Pitman Shaft Seal Installation
JSTEERING 19 - 23

(2) Wrap a single layer of plastic tape around the
pitman shaft threads and splines. This will protect
the replacement seals during installation.
(3) Install the seal with a suitable size socket.
(4) Remove the tape from the shaft.
(5) Center the steering gear.
(6) Align and install the pitman arm.
(7) Install the washer and retaining nut on the pit-
man shaft. Tighten the nut to 251 Nzm (185 ft. lbs.)
torque.
GEAR ADJUSTMENTS IN VEHICLE
REMOVE
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Mark the pitman shaft and pitman arm for in-
stallation reference. Remove the pitman arm from
the shaft.
(3) Loosen the adjuster lock nut then back the ad-
juster plug off 1/4 turn.
(4) Remove the steering wheel horn pad.
(5) Turn the steering wheel in one direction until
stopped by the gear. Then turn back 1/2 turn.
CAUTION: Do not turn the steering wheel hard
against the internal stops when the linkage is re-
moved. This could result in damage to the recircu-
lating ball guides.
MEASURE
Place a low calibration (50 in. lbs.) torque wrench
and socket on the steering wheel nut. Rotate the
wrench and nut through a 90 degree arc (1/4 turn).
This will measure the worm shaft bearing preload.
ADJUST WORMSHAFT BEARING PRELOAD
TORQUE
(1) Adjust the preload by tightening the adjuster
plug. The preload should be 0.6 to 1 Nzm(5to8in.
lbs.) torque.
Steering column/shaft misalignment or damage will
increase the amount of torque required to rotate the
steering wheel. If the rotating torque is exceptionally
high, inspect the steering column/shaft alignment. If
the alignment is correct, remove the steering gear,
determine the cause of the high preload torque, and
repair as necessary.
(2) Tighten the adjuster locknut to 68 Nzm (50 ft.
lbs.) torque. Measure the preload torque. If neces-
sary, adjust the preload torque again.
ADJUST OVERCENTER DRAG TORQUE
(1) Turn the steering wheel from one stop to the
other and count the total numbers of turns. Turn the
wheel back in reverse direction 1/2 the total number
of turns to center the steering gear.(2) Turn the over center adjusting screw in to re-
move all lash between the ball nut and pitman shaft
sector teeth. Hold the adjustment screw and tighten
the lock nut to 34 Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Check the torque at the steering wheel by tak-
ing the highest reading as the wheel is turned
through the center position.
(4) The overcenter drag torque should be 0.5 to 1
Nzm (4 to 10 in. lbs.).
(5) If necessary, loosen the lock nut and adjust the
over center adjuster screw to obtain the proper
torque. Re-tighten the lock nut to the lock nut.
(6) After tightening the locknut, measure the over-
center drag torque again and readjust the torque, if
necessary.
INSTALL
(1) Align the installation reference marks and in-
stall the pitman arm.
(2) Install and tighten the pitman shaft nut and
washer to 251 Nzm (185 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the horn button.
GEAR DISASSEMBLY
(1) Rotate the wormshaft from stop-to-stop and
count the number of rotations. Rotate the wormshaft
in the reverse direction 1/2 of the total number of ro-
tations to center it and the ball nut.
(2) Remove the pitman shaft adjustment screw
locknut. Remove the cover retaining bolts, cover, and
gasket (Fig. 3).
(3) Slide the adjustment screw head (Fig. 3) out of
the pitman shaft T-slot and remove it and the
shim(s).
(4) Retain the shim(s) for end-play measurement
during assembly.
(5) Remove the pitman shaft, the wormshaft bear-
ing preload torque adjustment cap locknut, and the
adjustment cap (Fig. 2).
(6) Remove the wormshaft and the ball nut (Fig.
2).
(7) Remove (pry) the pitman shaft and the worm-
shaft seals from the steering gear housing (Fig. 3).
WORMSHAFT AND BALL NUT DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove the upper bearing from the wormshaft
(Fig. 2).
CAUTION: Do not allow the ball nut to rotate freely
and travel to either extreme end of the wormshaft.
This could damage the tangs at the ends of the re-
circulating ball guides (Fig. 3).
(2) Remove the recirculating ball guide clamp re-
taining screws, the clamp and the guides (Fig. 2).
Separate the half-guides and place the recirculating
balls aside in a container.
JSTEERING 19 - 39

(4) Hold pitman shaft adjustment screw and
tighten adjuster lock nut to 34 Nzm (25 ft. lbs.)
torque.
INTERMEDIATE (COUPLER) SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Place the front wheels in the straight ahead po-
sition.
(2) Remove the shaft pinch bolt at the steering
gear and column (Fig. 15, 16). Un-bolt steering gear
from frame rail to remove shaft. Refer to Steering
Gear Replacement in this section.
INSTALLATION
(1) Align the intermediate (coupler) shaft to the
steering gear and column.
(2) Position the steering gear on the frame. Refer
to Steering Gear Replacement in this section.
(3) Install and tighten the pinch bolts to 34 Nzm
(25 ft. lbs.) torque.
STEERING GEAR REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
(1) Place the front wheels in the straight ahead po-
sition with the steering wheel centered.
(2) Remove the column coupler shaft from the gear.
Refer to the removal procedures in this section.
(3) Remove pitman arm from gear. Refer to Pitman
Arm Removal in the Steering Linkage section.
Fig. 14 Over-center AdjustmentFig. 15 Coupler ShaftÐXJ
Fig. 16 Coupler ShaftÐYJ
JSTEERING 19 - 45