1995 JEEP YJ wheel bolts

(7) Disconnect the brake hose at the axle junction
block.Do not disconnect the wheel cylinder tub-
ing fittings.
(8) Disconnect the track bar at the axle bracket.
(9) Support the axle with a hydraulic jack under
the differential. Raise the axle just enough to relieve
the axle weight from the springs.
(10) Remove the spring U-bolts from the plate
brackets.
(11) Loosen BUT DO NOT REMOVE the bolts that
attach the spring front pivot at the frame rail brack-
ets. This will allow the springs to pivot without bind-
ing on the bushings.
(12) Disconnect shackle from the springs and lower
the springs to the surface.
(13) Lower the jack enough to remove the axle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber
bushings should be tightened with the vehicle at
normal height. It is important to have the springs
supporting the weight of the vehicle when the fas-
teners are torqued. If springs are not at their normal
ride position, vehicle ride comfort could be affected
and premature bushing wear may occur. Rubber
bushings must never be lubricated.
(1) Support the axle on a hydraulic jack under the
differential. Position the axle under the vehicle.
(2) Raise the springs and install the spring shackle
bolts.Do not tighten at this time.
(3) Lower the axle and align the spring center
bolts with the locating holes in the axle pads and
plate brackets.
(4) Install the spring U-bolts through the plate
brackets and tighten to 122 Nzm (90 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect the track bar to the axle bracket and
install the bolt. Do not tighten at this time.
It is important that the springs support the
weight of the vehicle when the track bar is con-
nected. If the springs are not at their usual po-
sition, vehicle ride comfort could be affected.
(6) Connect the brake hose at the axle junction
block.
(7) Install the shock absorbers to the axle brackets
and tighten to 61 Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Connect the parking brake cables at the equal-
izer or backing plate.
(9) Connect the vent hose to the tube fitting.
(10) Align the reference marks and connect the
drive shaft to the axle yoke. Tighten the U-joint
clamp bolts to 19 Nzm (14 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Check differential lubricant and add if neces-
sary.
(12) Install the wheel and tire.
(13) Bleed the brakes.
(14) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.(15) Tighten the spring front pivot bolt/nut to 142
Nzm (105 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the spring shackle
bolt/nut to 135 Nzm (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
(16) Tighten the track bar bolt at the axle bracket
to 142 Nzm (105 ft. lbs.) torque.
PINION SHAFT SEAL REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Mark the drive shaft yoke and pinion yoke for
installation alignment reference.
(4) Remove the drive shaft from the yoke.
(5) Rotate the pinion gear three or four times.
Make sure brakes are not dragging during this
procedure.
(6) Measure the amount of torque (in Newton-
meters or inch-pounds) necessary to rotate the pinion
gear with a torque wrench. Note the torque for in-
stallation reference.It must be known to properly
adjust the pinion gear bearing preload torque
after seal installation.
(7) Remove the pinion yoke nut and washer. Use
Remover C-452 and Wrench C-3281 to remove the
pinion yoke (Fig. 2).
(8) Mark the positions of the yoke and pinion gear
for installation alignment reference.
(9) Use Remover 7794A and slide hammer to re-
move the pinion gear seal (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal. Install seal with Installer D-163
and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 4).
(2) Align the installation reference marks and in-
stall yoke on the pinion gear with Installer W-162-D.
(3) Install a new nut on the pinion gear.Tighten
the nut only enough to remove the shaft end
play.
Fig. 2 Pinion Yoke Removal
JREAR SUSPENSION AND AXLES 3 - 15

CAUTION: Exercise care during the bearing preload
torque adjustment. Do not over-tighten, or loosen
and then re-tighten the nut. Do not exceed the bear-
ing preload torque. The collapsible preload spacer
on the shaft will have to be replaced. The bearing
preload torque will be re-adjusted afterward.
(4) Install a socket and inch-pound torque wrench
on the pinion nut.
(5) Rotate the shaft with the torque wrench and
note the torque.
The required preload torque is equal to the
amount recorded during removal plus an addi-
tional 0.56 Nzm (5 in. lbs.).
(6) Use Flange Wrench C-3281 to retain the yoke
and shaft (Fig. 5). Tighten the shaft nut in very
small increments.(7) Continue tightening the shaft nut in small in-
crements until the correct bearing preload torque is
attained.
(8) Align the installation reference marks and at-
tach the drive shaft to the yoke.
(9) Add API grade GL 5 hypoid gear lubricant to
the differential housing, if necessary.
(10) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(10) Lower the vehicle.
AXLE SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire.
(3) Remove the brake drum.
(4) Clean all the foreign material from housing
cover area.
(5) Loosen the housing cover bolts. Drain the lubri-
cant from the housing and the axle shaft tubes. Re-
move the housing cover.
(6) Rotate the differential case so that the pinion
mate gear shaft lock screw is accessible. Remove the
lock screw and the pinion mate gear shaft from the
case (Fig. 6).
(7) Force the axle shaft in toward the center of the
vehicle. Remove the axle shaft C-clip lock from the
axle shaft (Fig. 7).
(8) Remove the axle shaft. Use care to prevent
damage to the axle shaft bearing and seal, which will
remain in the axle shaft tube.
(9) Inspect axle shaft seal for leakage or damage.
Fig. 3 Seal Removal
Fig. 4 Pinion Seal Installation
Fig. 5 Tightening Pinion Shaft Nut
3 - 16 REAR SUSPENSION AND AXLESJ

LUBRICANT SPECIFICATIONS
Multi-purpose, hypoid gear lubricant should be
used in the 8 1/4 inch axle. The lubricant should
have MIL-L-2105C and API GL 5 quality specifica-
tions. MOPARtHypoid Gear Lubricant conforms to
both of these specifications.
²The factory installed lubricant for the 8 1/4 inch
rear axle is SAE 80W 90 gear lubricant.
²The factory installed lubricant quantity is 6762
fluid oz.
CAUTION: Overfilling the differential can result in
lubricant foaming and overheating.
Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance for
additional information.
CAUTION: If axle is submerged in water, lubricant
must be replaced immediately to avoid possible
premature axle failure.
DRIVE AXLE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENTÐXJ
VEHICLES
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle. Position support stands un-
der the frame rails slightly in front the springs.
(2) Remove the rear wheels.
(3) Mark the drive shaft yoke and axle pinion yoke
for alignment reference. Disconnect the drive shaft
from the axle.
(4) Disconnect the axle vent hose.
(5) Disconnect the parking brake cables at the
equalizer or backing plate.
(6) Disconnect the shock absorbers from the axle
brackets.
(7) Disconnect the brake hose at the axle junction
block.Do not disconnect the wheel cylinder tub-
ing fittings.
(8) If equipped, disconnect ABS wiring connections
at the axle.
(9) Support the axle with a hydraulic jack under
the differential.
(10) Remove the spring U-bolts from the plate
brackets.
(11) Lower the jack enough to remove the axle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber
bushings should be tightened with the vehicle at
normal height. It is important to have the springs
supporting the weight of the vehicle when the fas-
teners are torqued. If springs are not at their normal
ride position, vehicle ride comfort could be affected
and premature bushing wear may occur. Rubber
bushings must never be lubricated.(1) Support the axle on a hydraulic jack under the
differential. Position the axle under the vehicle.
(2) Raise the axle and align the spring center bolts
with the locating holes in the axle pads and plate
brackets.
(3) Install the spring U-bolts through the plate
brackets and tighten to 70 Nzm (52 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install ABS wiring connections (if equipped) at
the axle.
(5) Connect the brake hose at the axle junction
block.
(6) Install the shock absorbers to the axle brackets
and tighten to 62 Nzm (46 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Connect the parking brake cables at the equal-
izer or backing plate.
(8) Connect the vent hose to the tube fitting.
(9) Align the reference marks and connect the
drive shaft to the axle yoke. Tighten the U-joint
clamp bolts to 19 Nzm (14 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Check differential lubricant and add if neces-
sary.
(11) Install the wheel and tire.
(12) Bleed the brakes.
(13) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
LUBRICANT CHANGE
The gear lubricant will drain quicker if the vehicle
has been recently driven.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the lubricant fill hole plug from the dif-
ferential housing cover.
(3) Remove the differential housing cover and
drain the lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove the sealant from the housing and cover
surfaces. Use solvent to clean the mating surfaces.
(6) Apply a bead of MOPARtSilicone Rubber Seal-
ant to the housing cover (Fig. 2). Allow the sealant to
cure for a few minutes.
Install the housing cover within 5 minutes after
applying the sealant. If not installed the sealant
must be removed and another bead applied.
(7) Install the cover and any identification tag.
Tighten the cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 47
Nzm (35 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Refill the differential with Mopar Hypoid Gear
Lubricant 13 mm (1/2 in.) below the fill plug hole.
With Trac-Lok differentials, add a container of Mopar
Hypoid Gear Lubricant Additive.
CAUTION: Overfilling the differential can result in
lubricant foaming and overheating.
(9) Install the fill hole plug and lower the vehicle.
JREAR SUSPENSION AND AXLES 3 - 31

AXLE SHAFT, SEAL AND BEARING SERVICE
CAUTION: When rear axle service is necessary,
both rear wheels must be raised off the surface so
that they are free to rotate. Be cautious when the
tires are being rotated by the engine or by other
means.
AXLE SHAFT REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire.
(3) Remove the brake drum.
(4) Clean all the foreign material from housing
cover area.
(5) Loosen the housing cover bolts and drain the
lubricant from the housing. Remove the housing
cover.
(6) Rotate the differential case so that the pinion
mate gear shaft lock screw is accessible. Remove the
lock screw and the pinion mate gear shaft from the
case (Fig. 3).
(7) Push the axle shaft in toward the center of the
vehicle. Remove the axle shaft C-clip lock from the
axle shaft (Fig. 4).
(8) Remove the axle shaft. Use care to prevent
damage to the axle shaft bearing, which will remain
in the axle shaft tube.
(9) Inspect the axle shaft bearing contact surface
area for indications of brinelling, spalling, and pit-
ting.
If any of these conditions exist, the axle shaft
and bearing should be replaced. Normal bear-ing contact on the shaft will be a dull gray and
it could appear to be lightly dented.
(10) If any of these conditions exist, the axle shaft
and bearing must be replaced.
The normal appearance (from roller bearing
contact) will be a dull gray surface area that
could appear slightly dented.
AXLE SHAFT SEAL AND BEARING REMOVAL
(1) Remove the axle shaft seal with a small pry
bar.
(2) Remove the bearing if it appears damaged or
the axle shaft shows any of the conditions described
above.
(3) Remove the bearing with Remover C-4167 (Fig.
5). Attach Slide Hammer 7420 and Adapter 7420-8 to
the end of the removal tool.
(4) Inspect the axle shaft seal surface and tube
bore for roughness and burrs.Polish each axle
shaft with No. 600 crocus cloth. This can re-
move slight surface damage. Do not reduce the
diameter of the axle shaft seal contact surface.
When polishing, the crocus cloth should be
moved around the circumference of the shaft
(not in-line with the shaft).
Fig. 2 Typical Housing Cover With Sealant
Fig. 3 Pinion Mate Shaft Lock Screw
Fig. 4 Axle Shaft C-Clip Lock
3 - 32 REAR SUSPENSION AND AXLESJ

ABS SYSTEM CHANGES
A different master cylinder, power brake booster,
and HCU are used in the 1995 Jeep ABS system.
The master cylinder reservoir has a single filler cap
and is no longer interconnected with the HCU. The
new HCU has built-in accumulators. The pedal travel
sensor has been eliminated and a new dual dia-
phragm power brake booster is used.
BRAKE FLUID/LUBRICANTS/CLEANING SOLVENTS
Recommended fluid for all Jeep vehicles is Mopar
DOT 3 brake fluid, or an equivalent meeting SAE
J1703 and DOT 3 standards.
Use Mopar Multi Mileage grease to lubricate drum
brake pivot pins and rear brakeshoe contact points
on the support plates. Use GE 661, or Dow 111 sili-
cone grease on caliper bushings and mounting bolts.
Use fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to
clean or flush brake system components. These are
the only cleaning materials recommended.
CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, methyl or
isopropyl alcohol, paint thinner, or any fluid con-
taining mineral oil to clean brake parts. These fluids
damage rubber cups and seals. If system contami-
nation is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Drain and
flush the system with new brake fluid if contamina-
tion is suspected.
JEEP BODY CODE LETTERS
The body/model identification code letters for Jeep
vehicles are as follows:²Code letters XJ: Cherokee
²Code letters YJ: Wrangler/YJ
The code letters are used throughout this group to
simplify model identification and component applica-
tion.
BRAKE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
WARNING: ALTHOUGH FACTORY INSTALLED
BRAKELINING ON JEEP VEHICLES IS MADE FROM
ASBESTOS FREE MATERIALS, SOME AFTER MAR-
KET BRAKELINING MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS. THIS
SHOULD BE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT WHEN RE-
PAIRING A VEHICLE WITH PRIOR BRAKE SERVICE.
WEAR A RESPIRATOR WHEN CLEANING BRAKE
COMPONENTS AS ASBESTOS FIBERS CAN BE A
HEALTH HAZARD. NEVER CLEAN WHEEL BRAKE
COMPONENTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR. USE A
VACUUM CLEANER SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR
REMOVING BRAKE DUST. IF A VACUUM CLEANER
IS NOT AVAILABLE, CLEAN THE PARTS WITH WA-
TER DAMPENED SHOP RAGS. DO NOT CREATE
DUST BY SANDING BRAKELINING. DISPOSE OF
ALL DUST AND DIRT SUSPECTED OF CONTAINING
ASBESTOS FIBERS IN SEALED BAGS OR CON-
TAINERS. FOLLOW ALL SAFETY PRACTICES REC-
OMMENDED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND
HEALTH ADMINISTRATION (OSHA) AND THE ENVI-
RONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY (EPA), FOR
HANDLING AND DISPOSAL OF ASBESTOS.
5 - 2 BRAKESJ

pedal. The proper course of action is to bleed the sys-
tem, or replace thin drums and suspect quality brake
lines and hoses.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to lin-
ing that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty. Test the booster and valve as described
in this section.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only. It is a
product of incomplete brakeshoe release. Drag can be
minor or severe enough to overheat the linings, ro-
tors and drums. A drag condition also worsens as
temperature of the brake parts increases.
Brake drag also has a direct effect on fuel economy.
If undetected, minor brake drag can be misdiagnosed
as an engine or transmission/torque converter prob-
lem.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat/cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In se-
vere cases, the lining may generate smoke as it chars
from overheating.
An additional cause of drag involves the use of in-
correct length caliper mounting bolts. Bolts that are
too long can cause a partial apply condition. The cor-
rect caliper bolts have a shank length of 67 mm
(2.637 in.), plus or minus 0.6 mm (0.0236 in.). Refer
to the Disc Brake service section for more detail on
caliper bolt dimensions and identification.
Some common causes of brake drag are:
²loose or damaged wheel bearing
²seized or sticking caliper or wheel cylinder piston
²caliper binding on bolts or slide surfaces
²wrong length caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper mounting bracket
²distorted rotor, brake drum, or shoes
²brakeshoes binding on worn/damaged support
plates
²severely rusted/corroded components
²misassembled components.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem may
be related to a blocked master cylinder compensatorport or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
The condition will worsen as brake temperature in-
creases.
The brakelight switch can also be a cause of drag.
An improperly mounted or adjusted brakelight
switch can prevent full brake pedal return. The re-
sult will be the same as if the master cylinder com-
pensator ports are blocked. The brakes would be
partially applied causing drag.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is a product of overheating caused by
brake drag. However, overheating and subsequent
fade can also be caused by riding the brake pedal,
making repeated high deceleration stops in a short
time span, or constant braking on steep roads. Refer
to the Brake Drag information in this section for
causes.
PEDAL PULSATION (NON-ABS BRAKES ONLY)
Pedal pulsation is caused by parts that are loose,
or beyond tolerance limits. This type of pulsation is
constant and will occur every time the brakes are ap-
plied.
Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral runout or
thickness variation, or out of round brake drums are
the primary causes of pulsation.
On vehicles with ABS brakes, remember that pedal
pulsation is normal during antilock mode brake
stops. If pulsation occurs during light to moderate
brake stops, a standard brake part is either loose, or
worn beyond tolerance.
BRAKE PULL
A front pull condition could be the result of:
²contaminated lining in one caliper
²seized caliper piston
²binding caliper
²wrong caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper
²loose or corroded mounting bolts
²improper brakeshoes
²damaged rotor
²incorrect wheel bearing adjustment (at one wheel)
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension com-
ponent are further causes of pull. A damaged front
tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
Wrong caliper bolts (too long) will cause a partial ap-
ply condition and pull if only one caliper is involved.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at the dragging brake unit.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so re-
duced that fade occurs. If the opposite brake unit is
still functioning normally, its braking effect is magni-
5 - 6 SERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSISJ

DISC BRAKES
INDEX
page page
Caliper Assembly......................... 50
Caliper Cleaning and Inspection.............. 50
Caliper Disassembly....................... 48
Caliper Installation........................ 51
Caliper Operation and Wear Compensation...... 45
Caliper Removal.......................... 48
Disc Brake Rotor Refinishing................. 53
Disc Brake Rotor Runout.................... 52Disc Brake Rotor Thickness................. 52
Disc Brake Rotor Thickness Variation.......... 52
Disc Brakeshoe Installation.................. 47
Disc Brakeshoe Removal................... 46
General Information....................... 45
Rotor Installation.......................... 51
Rotor Removal........................... 51
Wheel Nut Tightening...................... 54
GENERAL INFORMATION
Jeep XJ/YJ models are equipped with single piston,
floating-type disc brake calipers. Ventilated, cast ro-
tors are used for all applications.
The disc brake calipers are supported in mounting
arms that are an integral part of the steering
knuckle. The calipers slide on mounting bolts that
also attach the calipers to the steering knuckle.
CALIPER OPERATION AND WEAR COMPENSATION
Caliper Operation
The significant feature of single piston caliper op-
eration is that the calipers are free to slide laterally
on the mounting bolts. It is the freedom of lateral
movement that allows continuous compensation for
lining wear.
A simplified cross section of a single piston caliper
is shown in Figure 1. The illustration graphically
portrays the forces at work when the brakes are ap-
plied.
Upon brake application, fluid pressure exerted
against the caliper piston increases greatly. Of equal
importance, is the fact that fluid pressure is exerted
equally and in all directions. What this means, is
that pressure in the caliper bore, will be exactly the
same as pressure on the piston. In other words, pres-
sure against piston and caliper bore is equal.
Fluid pressure applied to the piston is transmitted
directly to the inboard brakeshoe. This forces the
shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor (Fig. 1).
At the same time, fluid pressure within the piston
bore, forces the caliper to slide inward on the mount-
ing bolts. This action brings the outboard brakeshoe
lining into contact with the outer surface of the disc
brake rotor (Fig. 1).
In summary, fluid pressure acting simultaneously
on both piston and caliper, produces a strong clamp-
ing action. When sufficient force is applied, friction
will stop the rotors from turning and bring the vehi-
cle to a stop.Brakeshoe Wear Compensation
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
piston. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and pis-
ton return to a rest position. The brakeshoes do not
retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting be-
tween the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seal controls the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seal is deflected out-
ward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig. 2).
When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are released,
the seal relaxes and retracts the piston.
Fig. 1 Disc Brake Caliper Operation
JDISC BRAKES 5 - 45

The amount of piston retraction is determined by
brakelining wear. Generally, the amount is just
enough to maintain contact between the piston and
inboard brakeshoe. Brakelining running clearance at
the rotor, will be held between zero and a maximum
of 0.12 mm (0.005 in.).
DISC BRAKESHOE REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove front wheels.
(2) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der front brake reservoir with suction gun.
(3) Bottom caliper piston in bore with C-clamp. Po-
sition clamp screw on outboard brakeshoe and clamp
frame on rear of caliper. Typical C-clamp attachment
is shown in Figure 3.Do not allow clamp screw to
bear directly on outboard shoe retainer spring.
Use wood or metal spacer between shoe and
clamp screw if necessary.
(4) Remove caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 4).If
brakeshoes are being removed to correct a pull
or drag condition, verify length of caliper bolts
as they may be incorrect length. Refer to bolt
information in brakeshoe installation proce-
dure.
(5) Tilt top of caliper outward. Use pry tool if nec-
essary (Fig. 5).
(6) Lift caliper off steering knuckle (Fig. 6).(7)If original brakeshoes will be used, keep
them in sets (left and right); they are not inter-
changeable.
Fig. 2 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
Fig. 3 Bottoming Caliper Piston With C-Clamp
Fig. 4 Removing/Installing Caliper Mounting Bolts
Fig. 5 Tilting Caliper Outward
Fig. 6 Caliper Removal
5 - 46 DISC BRAKESJ