1995 JEEP YJ wheel bolt torque

CALIPER INSTALLATION
(1) Install brakeshoes in caliper (Figs. 11, 12).
(2) Connect brake hose to caliper but do not
tighten fitting bolt completely at this time.Be sure
to use new gaskets on fitting bolt to avoid leaks
(Fig. 25).
(3) Install caliper. Position mounting notches at
lower end of brakeshoes on bottom mounting ledge
(Fig. 13). Then rotate caliper over rotor and seat
notches at upper end of shoes on mounting ledge
(Fig. 13).
(4) Coat caliper mounting bolts with GE 661 or
Dow 111 silicone grease. Then install and tighten
bolts to 10-20 Nzm (7-15 ft. lbs.) torque.CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceed-
ing. If the bolts have a shank length greater than
67.6 mm (2.66 in.), they may contact the inboard
brakeshoe causing a partial apply condition. Refer
to Figure 14 for the required caliper bolt length.
(5) Position front brake hose clear of all chassis
components and tighten caliper fitting bolt to 31 Nzm
(23 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: Be sure the brake hose is not twisted or
kinked at any point. Also be sure the hose is clear
of all steering and suspension components. Loosen
and reposition the hose if necessary.
(6) Install wheels. Tighten wheel lug nuts to 109-
150 Nzm (80-110 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Fill and bleed brake system. Refer to proce-
dures in Service Adjustments section.
ROTOR REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove wheel.
(2) Remove caliper.
(3) Remove retainers securing rotor to hub studs
(Fig. 26).
(4) Remove rotor from hub (Fig. 26).
(5) If rotor shield requires service, remove front
hub and bearing assembly.
ROTOR INSTALLATION
(1) If new rotor is being installed, remove protec-
tive coating from rotor surfaces with Mopar carb
cleaner.It is not necessary to machine a rotor to
remove the coating. Mopar carb cleaner fol-
lowed by a rinse with brake cleaner will re-
move the coating.
(2) Install rotor on hub.
(3) Install caliper.
Fig. 23 Installing Caliper Piston
Fig. 24 Seating Caliper Piston Dust Boot
Fig. 25 Front Brake Hose And Fitting Components
JDISC BRAKES 5 - 51

Do not hone cylinder bores or polish pistons.
Replace cylinder as an assembly if bore is dam-
aged.
(8) Install bleed screw.
(9) Coat cylinder bore, pistons, cups and expander
with brake fluid and reassemble cylinder compo-
nents. Be sure piston cup lips face expander.
WHEEL CYLINDER INSTALLATION
(1) Apply small bead of silicone sealer around cyl-
inder mounting surface of support plate.
(2) Start brakeline in wheel cylinder fitting by
hand.
(3) Align and seat wheel cylinder on support plate
(Fig. 10).
(4) Install cylinder mounting bolts (Fig. 10).
Tighten bolts to 10 Nzm (90 in. lbs.) torque.(5) Tighten brakeline fitting to 15 Nzm (132 in.
lbs.) torque.
(6) Install brakeshoes. Adjust shoes to drum with
brake gauge.
(7) Install brake drums and lower vehicle.
(8) Fill master cylinder and bleed brakes.
SUPPORT PLATE REPLACEMENT
The support plate should cleaned and inspected
whenever the drum brake components are being ser-
viced.
Check the support plate for wear, or rust through
at the contact pads and replace the plate if necessary.
Be sure to lubricate the contact pads with Mopar
multi-mileage grease before shoe installation. Lubri-
cation will avoid noisy operation and shoe bind.
(1) Raise vehicle and remove wheel/tire assembly.
(2) Remove brake drum, brakeshoes, and wheel
cylinder.
(3) Remove axle shaft as described in Group 3.
(4) Remove support plate attaching nuts and re-
move support plate.
(5) Clean axle tube flange. If gasket is not used on
flange, apply thin bead of silicone adhesive/sealer to
flange.
(6) Position new support plate on axle tube flange.
(7) Apply Mopar Lock N9Seal, or Loctite 242 to
support plate attaching nuts. Then install and
tighten nuts.
(8) Apply light coat of Mopar multi-mileage grease
to contact pads of new support plate.
(9) Install wheel cylinder and brakeshoes.
(10) Adjust brakeshoes to drums. Refer to proce-
dure in this section.
(11) Bleed brakes.
(12) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(13) Adjust parking brake cable tensioner. Refer to
procedure in Parking Brake section.
(14) Lower vehicle and verify proper service brake
and parking brake operation.
BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING
Brake drums can be machined to restore the brak-
ing surface. Use a brake lathe to clean up light scor-
ing and wear.
CAUTION: Never refinish a brake drum if machining
will cause the drum to exceed maximum allowable
brake surface diameter.
Brake drums that are warped, distorted, or se-
verely tapered should be replaced. Do not refinish
drums exhibiting these conditions. Brake drums that
are heat checked or have hard spots should also be
replaced.
Fig. 8 Wheel Cylinder (9-Inch Brake)
Fig. 9 Wheel Cylinder (10-Inch Brake)
Fig. 10 Wheel Cylinder Mounting
5 - 58 DRUM BRAKESJ

CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page page
Clutch Contamination....................... 3
Clutch Cover and Disc Runout................ 3
Clutch Housing Misalignment................. 4
Clutch Misalignment........................ 3Flywheel Runout........................... 3
General Diagnosis Information................ 3
Inspection and Diagnosis Charts............... 4
Installation Methods and Parts Usage........... 4
GENERAL DIAGNOSIS INFORMATION
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is obvious, ac-
curate problem diagnosis will usually require a road
test to confirm a problem. Component inspection will
then be required to determine the actual problem
cause.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If chatter, grab,
slip, or improper release is experienced, remove and
inspect the clutch components. However, if the prob-
lem is noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may
be needed as the transmission or another driveline
component may be at fault. Careful observation dur-
ing the test will help narrow the problem area.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water, or clutch fluid on the clutch
disc and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter,
slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid, or water/road
splash.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is en-
tering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing
cracks, or through hydraulic line openings. Driving
through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave
cylinder push rod seals. This type of leak can only be
confirmed by visual inspection.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the in-
dicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However, mi-
nor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with
180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring (ap-
proximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal
isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel if scor-
ing is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.).
Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel crack-
ing or warpage after installation; it can also weaken
the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain an-
other disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
JCLUTCH DIAGNOSIS 6 - 3

when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and
consequent misalignment) is improper bolt tighten-
ing. To avoid warping the cover, the bolts must tight-
ened alternately (diagonal pattern) and evenly (2-3
threads at a time) to specified torque.
CLUTCH HOUSING MISALIGNMENT
Clutch housing alignment is important to proper
clutch operation. The housing maintains alignment
between the crankshaft and transmission input
shaft. Misalignment can cause clutch noise, hard
shifting, incomplete release and chatter. It can also
result in premature wear of the pilot bearing, cover
release fingers and clutch disc. In severe cases, mis-
alignment can also cause premature wear of the
transmission input shaft and front bearing.
Housing misalignment is generally caused by incor-
rect seating on the engine or transmission, loose
housing bolts, missing alignment dowels, or housing
damage. Infrequently, misalignment may also be
caused by housing mounting surfaces that are not
completely parallel. Misalignment can be corrected
with shims.
INSTALLATION METHODS AND PARTS USAGE
Distortion of clutch components during installation
and the use of non-standard components are addi-
tional causes of clutch malfunction.Improper clutch cover bolt tightening can distort
the cover. The usual result is clutch grab, chatter
and rapid wear. Tighten the cover bolts as described
in Clutch Service section.
An improperly seated flywheel and/or clutch hous-
ing are additional causes of clutch failure. Improper
seating will produce misalignment and additional
clutch problems.
The use of non-standard or low quality parts will
also lead to problems and wear. Use recommended
factory quality parts to avoid comebacks.
A cocked pilot bearing is another cause of clutch
noise, drag, and hard shifting, and rapid bearing
wear. Always use an alignment tool to install a new
bearing. This practice helps avoid cocking the bear-
ing during installation.
INSPECTION AND DIAGNOSIS CHARTS
The clutch inspection chart (Fig. 1) outlines items
to be checked before and during clutch installation.
Use the chart as a check list to help avoid overlook-
ing potential problem sources during service opera-
tions.
The diagnosis charts describe common clutch prob-
lems, causes and correction. Fault conditions are
listed at the top of each chart. Conditions, causes and
corrective action are outlined in the indicated col-
umns.
The charts are provided as a convenient reference
when diagnosing faulty clutch operation.
6 - 4 CLUTCH DIAGNOSISJ

(4) Position clutch disc on flywheel. Be sure side of
disc marked flywheel side is positioned against fly-
wheel (Fig. 2). If disc is not marked, be sure flat side
of disc hub is toward flywheel.
(5) Inspect condition of pressure plate surface of
clutch cover (Fig. 2). Replace cover if this surface is
worn, heat checked, cracked, or scored.
(6) Insert clutch alignment tool in clutch disc (Fig.
3).
(7) Insert alignment tool in pilot bearing and posi-
tion disc on flywheel. Be sure disc hub is positioned
correctly. Side of hub marked Flywheel Side should
face flywheel (Fig. 2). If disc is not marked, place flat
side of disc against flywheel.
(8) Position clutch cover over disc and on flywheel
(Fig. 3).
(9) Install clutch cover bolts finger tight.(10) Tighten cover bolts evenly and in rotation a
few threads at a time.Cover bolts must be tight-
ened evenly and to specified torque to avoid
distorting cover. Tightening torques are 31 Nzm
(23 ft. lbs.) on 2.5L engines and 54 Nzm (40 ft.
lbs.) on 4.0L engines.
(11) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease to pilot bearing hub and splines of
transmission input shaft.Do not overlubricate
shaft splines. This will result in grease contam-
ination of disc.
(12) Install transmission (Figs. 4 and 5). Refer to
procedures in Group 21.
RELEASE BEARING REPLACEMENT
(1) Remove transmission as described in Group 21.
Fig. 2 Clutch Disc And Pressure Plate InspectionFig. 3 Typical Method Of Aligning Clutch Disc
Fig. 4 Manual Transmission Mounting (4.0L)
JCLUTCH SERVICE 6 - 11

(3) Install clutch master cylinder push rod on
pedal. Secure rod with washer(s) and new cotter pin.
(4) Connect clutch pedal position switch wires.
(5) Install instrument panel lower trim cover, if re-
moved.
FLYWHEEL SERVICE
Inspect the flywheel whenever the clutch disc,
cover and housing are removed for service. Check
condition of the flywheel face, hub, ring gear teeth,
and flywheel bolts.
Minor scratches, burrs, or glazing on the flywheel
face can be reduced with 180 grit emery cloth. How-
ever, the flywheel should be replaced if the disc con-
tact surface is severely scored, heat checked, cracked,
or obviously worn.
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel surface is manufactured with a unique contour
that would be negated by machining. However,
cleanup of minor flywheel scoring can be performed
by hand with 180 grit emery, or with surface grind-
ing equipment. Replace the flywheel if scoring is
deeper than 0.0762 mm (0.003 in.).
Heavy stock removal by grinding isnot recom-
mended.Excessive stock removal can result in fly-
wheel cracking or warpage after installation. It can
also weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper
clutch release.
Check flywheel runout if misalignment is sus-
pected. Runout should not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003
in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of the fly-
wheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the dial indi-
cator on a stud installed in place of one of the
flywheel attaching bolts.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout.
Check condition of the flywheel hub and attaching
bolts. Replace the flywheel if the hub exhibits cracks
in the area of the attaching bolt holes.
Install new attaching bolts whenever the flywheelis replaced and use Mopar Lock N' Seal, or Loctite
242 on the replacement bolt threads.
Recommended flywheel bolt torques are:
²142 Nzm (105 ft. lbs.) for 6-cylinder flywheels
²68 Nzm (50 ft. lbs.) plus an additional turn of 60É
for 4-cylinder flywheels
Inspect the teeth on the starter ring gear.If the
teeth are worn or damaged, the flywheel should
be replaced as an assembly. This is the recom-
mended and preferred method of repair.
In cases where a new flywheel is not readily avail-
able, a replacement ring gear can be installed. How-
ever, the following precautions must be observed to
avoid damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
(a) Mark position of the old gear for alignment
reference on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this
purpose.
(b) Wear protective goggles or approved safety
glasses. Also wear heat resistent gloves when han-
dling a heated ring gear.
(c) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the
way through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-
off wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel
or punch.
(d) The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it.The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important.
Every surface of the gear must be heated at the
same time to produce uniform expansion. An oven
or similar enclosed heating device must be used.
Temperature required for uniform expansion is ap-
proximately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to re-
move the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
(e) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion. A shop press and
suitable press plates should be used to install the
gear if at all possible.
(f) Be sure to wear eye and hand protection.
Heat resistent gloves and safety goggles are needed
for personal safety. Also use metal tongs, vise grips,
or similar tools to position the gear as necessary
for installation.
(g) Allow the flywheel and ring gear to cool down
before installation. Set the assembly on a work-
bench and let it cool in normal shop air.
Fig. 16 Clutch Pedal Mounting (XJ)
6 - 16 CLUTCH SERVICEJ

CAUTION: Be certain that battery cables are con-
nected to the correct battery terminals. Reverse po-
larity can damage electrical components.
(12) Place oiled felt washer on battery positive ter-
minal post.
(13) Install and tighten battery positive cable ter-
minal clamp. Then install and tighten negative cableterminal clamp. Both cable clamp bolts require
torque of 8.5 Nzm (75 in. lbs.).
(14) Apply a thin coating of petroleum jelly or
chassis grease to cable terminals and battery posts.
STARTER AND STARTER RELAY
GENERAL INFORMATION
This section covers starter and starter relay service
procedures only. For diagnostic procedures, refer to
Group 8A - Battery/Starting/Charging Systems Diag-
nostics. Service procedures for other starting system
components can be found as follows:
²battery - see Battery, in this group
²ignition switch - refer to Group 8D - Ignition Sys-
tems
²park/neutral position switch (automatic transmis-
sion) - refer to Group 21 - Transmission and Transfer
Case
²wiring harness and connectors - refer to Group 8W
- Wiring Diagrams.
STARTER
The starter motor incorporates several features to
create a reliable, efficient, compact and lightweight
unit. A planetary gear system (intermediate trans-
mission) is used between the electric motor and pin-
ion gear. This feature makes it possible to reduce the
dimensions of the starter. At the same time, it allows
higher armature rotational speed and delivers in-
creased torque through the pinion gear to the fly-
wheel or drive plate ring gear.
The use of a permanent magnet field also reduces
starter size and weight. This field consists of six
high-strength permanent magnets. The magnets are
aligned according to their polarity and are perma-
nently fixed in the starter field frame.
The starter motors for all engines are activated by
a solenoid mounted to the overrunning clutch hous-
ing. However, the starter motor/solenoid are serviced
only as a complete assembly. If either component
fails, the entire assembly must be replaced.
This unit is highly sensitive to hammering, shocks
and external pressure.
CAUTION: The starter motor MUST NOT BE
CLAMPED in a vise by the starter field frame. Doing
so may damage the magnets. It may be clamped by
the mounting flange ONLY.CAUTION: Do not connect starter motor incorrectly
when tests are being performed. The permanent
magnets may be damaged and rendered unservice-
able.
STARTER RELAY
The starter relay is an International Standards Or-
ganization (ISO) type relay, and is located in the
Power Distribution Center (PDC). Refer to underside
of PDC cover for relay location.
STARTER REMOVE/INSTALLÐ2.5L
XJ MODELS
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove exhaust clamp from bracket (Fig. 11).
(3) Remove nut and bolt from forward end of brace
rod (automatic transmission only).
Fig. 11 Exhaust Clamp and Brace Remove (XJÐ
2.5L)
8B - 4 BATTERY/STARTER/GENERATOR SERVICEJ

CAUTION: On some models, two bolts are used to
secure the sensor to the transmission. These bolts
are specially machined to correctly space the unit
to the flywheel. Do not attempt to install any other
bolts.
(3) Connect the electrical connector to the sensor.
(4) Install clip on sensor wire harness.
(5) Install clip over fuel rail mounting stud. Install
clip mounting nut.
INSTALLATIONÐYJ MODELS WITH 4.0L
6-CYLINDER ENGINE AND AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION
(1) Install the sensor into the access hole on the
transmission.
(2) Install sensor mounting bolt (Fig. 6).
(3) Tighten sensor mounting bolt to 6-to-8 Nzm (50-
to-70 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect the electrical connector to sensor.
(5) Install the clip to sensor wire harness.
(6) Install clip over fuel rail mounting stud. Install
clip mounting nut.
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
For an operational description, diagnosis and re-
moval/installation procedures, refer to Group 14,
Fuel System.
DISTRIBUTOR
GENERAL INFORMATION
All distributors contain an internal oil seal that
prevents oil from entering the distributor housing.
The seal is not serviceable.
Factory replacement distributors are equipped with
a plastic alignment pin already installed. The pin is
located in an access hole on the bottom of the distrib-
utor housing (Fig. 7). It is used to temporarily lock
the rotor to the cylinder number 1 position during in-
stallation. The pin must be removed after installing
the distributor.
The camshaft position sensor is located in the dis-
tributor on all engines (Fig. 8). For removal/installa-
tion procedures, refer to Camshaft Position Sensor.
Distributor removal is not necessary for sensor re-
moval.
Refer to figure 8 for an exploded view of the dis-
tributor.
A fork with a slot is supplied on the bottom of the
distributor housing where the housing base seats
against the engine block (Fig. 8). The centerline of
the slot aligns with the distributor holddown bolt
hole in the engine block. Because of the fork, the dis-
tributor cannot be rotated. Distributor rotation is not
necessary as all ignition timing requirements are
handled by the powertrain control module (PCM).The position of the distributor determines fuel syn-
chronization only. It does not determine ignition tim-
ing.
Do not attempt to modify this fork to attain
ignition timing.
Fig. 7 Plastic Alignment Pin
Fig. 8 DistributorÐ2.5L Or 4.0L EnginesÐTypical
JIGNITION SYSTEMS 8D - 19