1995 JEEP YJ check transmission fluid

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES
INTRODUCTION
There are two maintenance schedules that show
proper service intervals for Jeep Cherokee and Jeep
Wrangler vehicles. Use the schedule that best de-
scribes the conditions the vehicle is operated under.
When mileage and time is listed, follow the interval
that occurs first.
ScheduleÐAlists all the scheduled maintenance
to be performed under normal operating conditions.
ScheduleÐBis a schedule for vehicles that are
usually operated under one or more of the following
conditions.
²Frequent short trip driving less than 5 miles (8
km).
²Frequent driving in dusty conditions.
²Trailer towing or heavy load hauling.
²Frequent long periods of engine idling.
²Sustained high speed operation.
²Desert operation.
²Frequent starting and stopping.
²Cold climate operation.
²Off road driving.
²Commercial service.
²Snow plow operation.
²More than half of vehicle operation occurs in
heavy city traffic during hot weather (above 90É F).
AT EACH STOP FOR GASOLINE
²Check engine oil level and add as required.
²Check windshield washer solvent and add as re-
quired.
ONCE A MONTH
²Check tire pressure and look for unusual tire wear
or damage.
²Check fluid levels of coolant reservoir, brake mas-
ter cylinder, power steering and transmission. Add
fluid as required.
²Check all lights and other electrical items for cor-
rect operation.
²Inspect battery and clean and tighten terminals as
required.
²Check rubber seals on each side of the radiator for
proper fit.
AT EACH OIL CHANGE
²Inspect exhaust system.
²Inspect brake hoses.
²Rotate the tires at each oil change interval shown
on ScheduleÐA: (7,500 Miles) or every other interval
shown on ScheduleÐB: (6,000 Miles).
²Check engine coolant level, hoses, and clamps.
²Lubricate 4x4 steering linkage.
²Lubricate propeller shaft universal joints and slip
spline, if equipped.After completion of off-road (4WD) operation, the
underside of the vehicle should be thoroughly in-
spected. Examine threaded fasteners for looseness.
HARSH SURFACE ENVIRONMENTS
After vehicle operation in a harsh surface environ-
ment, the following components should be inspected
and cleaned as soon as possible:
²Brake drums.
²Brake linings.
²Front wheel bearings (2WD vehicles only).
²Axle coupling joints.
This will prevent wear and/or unpredictable brake
action.
EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM MAINTENANCE
The schedule emission maintenance listed inbold
typeon the following schedules, must be done at the
mileage specified to assure the continued proper
functioning of the emission control system. These,
and all other maintenance services included in this
manual, should be done to provide the best vehicle
performance and reliability. More frequent mainte-
nance may be needed for vehicles in severe operating
conditions such as dusty areas and very short trip
driving.
SCHEDULEÐA
7,500 MILES (12 000 KM) OR AT 6 MONTHS
²Change engine oil.
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Lubricate steering linkage (4x4).
15,000 MILES (24 000 KM) OR AT 12 MONTHS
²Change engine oil.
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Lubricate steering linkage.
22,500 MILES (36 000 KM) OR AT 18 MONTHS
²Change engine oil.
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Lubricate steering linkage (4x4).
²Inspect brake linings.
30,000 MILES (48 000 KM) OR AT 24 MONTHS
²Replace air cleaner element.
²Replace spark plugs.
²Adjust belt tension on non-automatic tensioning
drive belts.
²Change engine oil.
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Lubricate steering linkage.
²Drain and refill automatic transmission.
²Drain and refill transfer case.
0 - 4 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCEJ

If the transmission is warm, lube oil could
drip out of the fill hole. This is acceptable but
the lube oil should not gush out of the fill hole.
(2) If not acceptable, raise the lube oil level to the
bottom edge of the transmission fill hole.
Add lube oil in small amounts to raise the
level.
(3) Install the fill-hole plug in the transmission.
Tighten the plug with 37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
LUBE OIL CHANGE
When it becomes necessary to change manual
transmission lube oil, use the following procedure.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the fill-hole plug from the transmis-
sion.
(3) Place a container to collect the lube oil under
the transmission drain-hole plug.
(4) Remove the drain-hole plug and drain the lube
oil from the transmission into the container.
Care should be exercised when disposing
used lube oil after it has been drained from a
transmission.
(5) Install the drain-hole plug in the transmission.
Tighten the plug with 37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Fill the transmission until the lube oil begins to
drip out of the fill hole.
(7) Install the fill-hole plug in the transmission.
Tighten the plug with 37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
The automatic transmission fluid should be
changed and bands adjusted at the intervals de-
scribed in the Maintenance Schedules section of this
Group. The automatic transmission should be in-
spected for fluid leaks and proper fluid level whenother under hood service is performed. Refer to
Group 21, Transmission for proper service proce-
dures.
CAUTION: To minimize fluid contamination, verify
that dipstick is seated in the fill tube after fluid level
reading is taken.
TO INSPECT THE TRANSMISSION FLUID
LEVEL
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE DRIVE BELT, PULLEYS OR FAN
BLADE. DO NOT STAND IN A DIRECT LINE WITH
THE FAN BLADE.
(1) Be sure transmission fluid is at normal operat-
ing temperature. Normal operating temperature is
reached after approximately 15 miles (25km) of oper-
ation.
(2) Position the vehicle on a level surface. This is
important for an accurate fluid level check.
(3) While sitting in driver seat, apply brakes and
place gear selector in each position, then move the
selector to:
²XJ vehicles-P (Park).
²YJ vehicles-N (Neutral).
(4) Apply parking brake.
(5) Raise hood and wipe off dipstick handle to pre-
vent dirt from entering fill tube. Then remove trans-
mission fluid level indicator (dipstick) and wipe clean
with a wiping cloth.
(6) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in fill
hole or tube.
(7) Remove dipstick, with handle above tip, take
fluid level reading. If the vehicle has been driven for
at least 15 minutes before inspecting fluid level,
transmission can be considered hot and reading
should be in the OK area. If vehicle has run for less
than 15 minutes and more than 60 seconds transmis-
sion can be considered warm and reading should be
above MIN mark. Add fluid only if level is below
MIN mark on dipstick when transmission is warm
(Fig. 4).
CAUTION: Do not overfill automatic transmission,
leakage or damage can result.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
SPECIFICATION
When it becomes necessary to add fluid or when
the ATF is replaced, use:
²MOPAR Dexron IIE/Mercon ATFonlyfor AW-4
automatic transmissions (XJ vehicles).
²MOPAR ATF PLUS type 7176 (YJ vehicles).
Fig. 3 Manual Transmission Fill- & Drain-Hole
PlugsÐTypical
JLUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0 - 23

hand lever. Also note if vehicle was being operated
with parking brake partially applied (this will cause
red light to remain on).
(7) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for be-
ing loose or for bind condition. Do not road test until
condition is corrected.
(8) If components inspected look OK, road test ve-
hicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If amber warning light is on, problem is with
antilock system component. Refer to antilock diagno-
sis section.
(2) If red warning light is not on, proceed to step
(4).
(3) If red warning light is on, proceed as follows:
(a) See if parking brakes are applied. If brakes
are applied, release them and proceed to step (4).
(b) Note if brake pedal is abnormally low. If
pedal is definitely low and red light is still on,
check front/rear hydraulic circuits for leak.Do not
road test. Inspect and repair as needed.
(4) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under steady foot pressure. If pedal falls away,
do not road test as problem is in master cylinder, or
HCU on ABS models. If pedal holds firm, proceed to
next step.
(5) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-35 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as hard pedal, pull, grab, drag, noise, fade,
etc.
(6) Return to shop and inspect brake components.
Refer to inspection and diagnosis information.
COMPONENT INSPECTION
Fluid leak points and dragging brake units can
usually be located without removing any components.
The area around a leak point will be wet with fluid.
The components at a dragging brake unit (wheel,
tire, rotor) will be quite warm or hot to the touch.
Other brake problem conditions will require compo-
nent removal for proper inspection. Raise the vehicle
and remove the necessary wheels for better visual ac-
cess.
During component inspection, pay particular atten-
tion to heavily rusted/corroded brake components
(e.g. rotors, caliper pistons, brake return/holddown
springs, support plates, etc.).
Heavy accumulations of rust may be covering se-
vere damage to a brake component. It is wise to re-
move surface rust in order to accurately determine
the depth of rust penetration and damage. Light sur-
face rust is fairly normal and not a major concern (as
long as it is removed). However, heavy rust buildup,especially on high mileage vehicles may cover struc-
tural damage to such important components as
brakelines, rotors, support plates, and brake boost-
ers. Refer to the wheel brake service procedures in
this group for more information.
BRAKE WARNING LIGHT OPERATION
The red brake warning light will illuminate under
the following conditions:
²for 2-3 seconds at startup as part of normal bulb
check
²when parking brakes are applied
²low pedal caused by leak in front/rear brake hy-
draulic circuit
If the red light remains on after startup, first ver-
ify that the parking brakes are fully released. Then
check pedal action and fluid level. A red light plus
low pedal indicates the pressure differential switch
and valve have been actuated due to a system leak.
On models with ABS brakes, the amber warning
light only illuminates when an ABS malfunction has
occurred. The ABS light operates independently of
the red warning light.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brakeline, fitting, hose,
wheel cylinder, or caliper. Internal leakage in the
master cylinder caused by worn or damaged piston
cups, may also be the problem cause.
If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or
around the leaking component. However internal
leakage in the master cylinder will not be physically
evident. Refer to the cylinder test procedure at the
end of this section.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn lining
and worn rotors or drums are the most likely causes.
However, if the pedal remains low and the red warn-
ing light is on, the likely cause is a leak in the hy-
draulic system.
A decrease in master cylinder fluid level may only
be the result of normal lining wear. Fluid level will
drop somewhat as lining wear occurs. It is a result of
the outward movement of caliper and wheel cylinder
pistons to compensate for normal wear.
SPONGY PEDAL
Air in the system is the usual cause of a spongy
pedal. Brake drums machined way beyond allowable
limits (too thin), or substandard brake lines and
hoses can also cause a condition similar to a spongy
JSERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSIS 5 - 5

CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page page
Clutch Contamination....................... 3
Clutch Cover and Disc Runout................ 3
Clutch Housing Misalignment................. 4
Clutch Misalignment........................ 3Flywheel Runout........................... 3
General Diagnosis Information................ 3
Inspection and Diagnosis Charts............... 4
Installation Methods and Parts Usage........... 4
GENERAL DIAGNOSIS INFORMATION
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is obvious, ac-
curate problem diagnosis will usually require a road
test to confirm a problem. Component inspection will
then be required to determine the actual problem
cause.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If chatter, grab,
slip, or improper release is experienced, remove and
inspect the clutch components. However, if the prob-
lem is noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may
be needed as the transmission or another driveline
component may be at fault. Careful observation dur-
ing the test will help narrow the problem area.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water, or clutch fluid on the clutch
disc and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter,
slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid, or water/road
splash.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is en-
tering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing
cracks, or through hydraulic line openings. Driving
through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave
cylinder push rod seals. This type of leak can only be
confirmed by visual inspection.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the in-
dicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However, mi-
nor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with
180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring (ap-
proximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal
isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel if scor-
ing is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.).
Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel crack-
ing or warpage after installation; it can also weaken
the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain an-
other disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
JCLUTCH DIAGNOSIS 6 - 3

CLUTCH SERVICE
INDEX
page page
Clutch Component Lubrication................ 10
Clutch Cover and Disc Installation............. 10
Clutch Cover and Disc Removal.............. 10
Clutch Fluid Level......................... 14
Clutch Housing Replacement................ 13
Clutch Hydraulic Linkage Installation........... 14
Clutch Hydraulic Linkage Removal............. 13Clutch Pedal Installation.................... 15
Clutch Pedal Removal...................... 15
Clutch Safety Precautions................... 10
Flywheel Service.......................... 16
Pilot Bearing Replacement.................. 12
Release Bearing Replacement................ 11
CLUTCH SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
WARNING: EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING
CLUTCH COMPONENTS. DUST AND DIRT ON
CLUTCH PARTS USE MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS FI-
BERS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE CONCENTRATIONS
OF THESE FIBERS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY
HARM. WEAR A RESPIRATOR DURING SERVICE
AND NEVER CLEAN CLUTCH COMPONENTS WITH
COMPRESSED AIR OR WITH A DRY BRUSH. EI-
THER CLEAN THE COMPONENTS WITH A WATER
DAMPENED RAGS OR USE A VACUUM CLEANER
SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR REMOVING ASBES-
TOS FIBERS AND DUST. DO NOT CREATE DUST BY
SANDING A CLUTCH DISC. REPLACE THE DISC IF
THE FRICTION MATERIAL IS DAMAGED OR CON-
TAMINATED. DISPOSE OF ALL DUST AND DIRT
CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS IN SEALED BAGS
OR CONTAINERS. THIS WILL HELP MINIMIZE EX-
POSURE TO YOURSELF AND TO OTHERS. FOL-
LOW ALL RECOMMENDED SAFETY PRACTICES
PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY
AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION (OSHA) AND THE
ENVIRONMENTAL SAFETY AGENCY (EPA), FOR
THE HANDLING AND DISPOSAL OF PRODUCTS
CONTAINING ASBESTOS.
CLUTCH COMPONENT LUBRICATION
Proper clutch component lubrication is important
to satisfactory operation. Using the correct lubricant
and not overlubricating are equally important. Apply
recommended lubricant sparingly to avoid disc and
pressure plate contamination.
Clutch and transmission components requiring lu-
brication are:
²pilot bearing
²release lever pivot ball stud
²release lever contact surfaces
²release bearing bore
²clutch disc hub splines
²clutch pedal pivot shaft bore
²clutch pedal bushings²input shaft splines
²input shaft pilot hub
²transmission front bearing retainer slide surface
Never apply grease to any part of the clutch
cover, or disc.
Recommended Lubricants
Use Mopar multi-purpose grease for the clutch
pedal bushings and pivot shaft. Use Mopar high tem-
perature grease (or equivalent) for all other lubrica-
tion requirements. Apply recommended amounts and
do not overlubricate.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission. Refer to procedures in
Group 21.
(2) If original clutch cover will be reinstalled, mark
position of cover on flywheel for assembly reference.
Use paint or a scriber for this purpose.
(3) If clutch cover is to be replaced, cover bolts can
be removed in any sequence. However, if original
cover will be reinstalled, loosen cover bolts evenly
and in rotation to relieve spring tension equally. This
is necessary avoid warping cover.
(4) Remove cover bolts and remove cover and disc
(Fig. 2).
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly scuff sand flywheel face with 180 grit
emery cloth. Then clean surface with a wax and
grease remover.
(2) Lubricate pilot bearing with Mopar high tem-
perature bearing grease.
(3) Check runout and free operation of new clutch
disc as follows:
(a) Slide disc onto transmission input shaft
splines. Disc should slide freely on splines.
(b) Leave disc on shaft and check face runout
with dial indicator. Check runout at disc hub and
about 6 mm (1/4 in.) from outer edge of facing.
(c) Face runout should not exceed 0.5 mm (0.020
in.). Obtain another clutch disc if runout exceeds
this limit.
6 - 10 CLUTCH SERVICEJ

COOLANT
GENERAL INFORMATION
The cooling system is designed around the coolant.
Coolant flows through the engine water jackets ab-
sorbing heat produced during engine operation. The
coolant carries heat to the radiator and heater core.
Here it is transferred to the ambient air passing
through the radiator and heater core fins. The cool-
ant also removes heat from the automatic transmis-
sion fluid in vehicles equipped with an automatic
transmission.
COOLANT PERFORMANCE
The required ethylene-glycol (antifreeze) and water
mixture depends upon climate and vehicle operating
conditions. The coolant performance of various mix-
tures follows:
Pure Water-Water can absorb more heat than a
mixture of water and ethylene-glycol. This is for pur-
pose of heat transfer only. Water also freezes at a
higher temperature and allows corrosion.
100 percent Ethylene-Glycol-The corrosion in-
hibiting additives in ethylene-glycol need the pres-
ence of water to dissolve. Without water, additives
form deposits in system. These act as insulation
causing temperature to rise to as high as 149ÉC
(300ÉF). This temperature is hot enough to melt plas-
tic and soften solder. The increased temperature can
result in engine detonation. In addition, 100 percent
ethylene-glycol freezes at -22ÉC (-8ÉF).
50/50 Ethylene-Glycol and Water-Is the recom-
mended mixture, it provides protection against freez-
ing to -37ÉC (-35ÉF). The antifreeze concentration
must alwaysbe a minimum of 44 percent, year-
round in all climates. If percentage is lower, engine
parts may be eroded by cavitation. Maximum protec-
tion against freezing is provided with a 68 percent
antifreeze concentration, which prevents freezing
down to -67.7ÉC (-90ÉF). A higher percentage will
freeze at a warmer temperature. Also, a higher per-
centage of antifreeze can cause the engine to over-
heat because specific heat of antifreeze is lower than
that of water.
CAUTION: Richer antifreeze mixtures cannot be
measured with normal field equipment and can
cause problems associated with 100 percent ethyl-
ene-glycol.
COOLANT SELECTION-ADDITIVES
Coolant should be maintained at the specified level
with a mixture of ethylene glycol-based antifreeze
and low mineral content water. Only use an anti-
freeze containing ALUGARD 340-2 Ÿ.CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are
claimed to improve engine cooling.
COOLANT SERVICE
It is recommended that the cooling system be
drained and flushed at 84,000 kilometers (52,500
miles), or 3 years, whichever occurs first. Then every
two years, or 48,000 kilometers (30,000 miles),
whichever occurs first.
COOLANT LEVEL CHECKÐROUTINE
Do not remove radiator cap for routine cool-
ant level inspections. The coolant level can be
checked at coolant reserve/overflow tank.
The coolant reserve/overflow system provides a
quick visual method for determining coolant level
without removing radiator pressure cap. With engine
idling and at normal operating temperature, observe
coolant level in reserve/overflow tank. The coolant
level should be between ADD and FULL marks.
ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANTÐROUTINE
Do not remove radiator cap to add coolant to
system.When adding coolant to maintain correct
level, do so at coolant reserve/overflow tank. Use a
50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze containing
Alugard 340-2 Ÿ and low mineral content water. Re-
move radiator cap only for testing or when refilling
system after service. Removing cap unnecessarily can
cause loss of coolant and allow air to enter system,
which produces corrosion.
COOLANT LEVEL CHECK-SERVICE
The cooling system is closed and designed to main-
tain coolant level to top of radiator.
WARNING: DO NOT OPEN RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH ENGINE RUNNING OR WHILE ENGINE IS HOT
AND COOLING SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
When vehicle servicing requires a coolant level
check in radiator, drain several ounces of coolant
from radiator drain cock. Do this while observing
coolant reserve/overflow system tank. The coolant
level in reserve/overflow tank should drop slightly. If
not, inspect for a leak between radiator and coolant
reserve/overflow system connection. Remove radiator
cap. The coolant level should be to top of radiator. If
not and if coolant level in reserve/overflow tank is at
ADD mark, check for:
²An air leak in coolant reserve/overflow tank or its
hose
²An air leak in radiator filler neck
²Leak in pressure cap seal to radiator filler neck
LOW COOLANT LEVEL-AERATION
If the coolant level in radiator drops below top of
radiator core tubes, air will enter cooling system.
7 - 20 COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURESJ

WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from
the filler neck and check the coolant level. Push
down on the cap to disengage it from the stop tabs.
Wipe the inner part of the filler neck and examine
the lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint,
dirt and solder residue. Inspect the reserve/overflow
tank tube for internal obstructions. Insert a wire
through the tube to be sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect the cams on the outside part of the filler
neck. If the cams are bent, seating of pressure cap
valve and tester seal will be affected. Replace cap if
cams are bent.
Attach pressure tester 7700 (or an equivalent) to
the radiator filler neck (Fig. 21).Operate the tester pump to apply 124 kPa (18 psi)
pressure to the system. If the hoses enlarge exces-
sively or bulge while testing, replace as necessary.
Observe the gauge pointer and determine the condi-
tion of the cooling system according to the following
criteria:
²Holds Steady: If the pointer remains steady for
two minutes, there are no serious coolant leaks in
the system. However, there could be an internal leak
that does not appear with normal system test pres-
sure. Inspect for interior leakage or do the Internal
Leakage Test. Do this if it is certain that coolant is
being lost and no leaks can be detected.
²Drops Slowly: Shows a small leak or seepage is oc-
curring. Examine all connections for seepage or slight
leakage with a flashlight. Inspect the radiator, hoses,
gasket edges and heater. Seal any small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant or equivalent. Repair leak
holes and reinspect the system with pressure ap-
plied.
²Drops Quickly: Shows that a serious leakage is oc-
curring. Examine the system for serious external
leakage. If no leaks are visible, inspect for internal
leakage. Large radiator leak holes should be repaired
by a reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove the engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. Coolant, being heavier
than engine oil, will drain first. Another way of test-
ing is to operate the engine and check for water glob-
ules on the engine oil dipstick. Also inspect the
automatic transmission oil dipstick for water glob-
ules. Inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler
for leakage. Operate the engine without the pressure
cap on the radiator until thermostat opens.
Attach a pressure tester to the filler neck. If pres-
sure builds up quickly, a leak exists as a result of a
faulty cylinder head gasket or crack in the engine.
Repair as necessary.
WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW PRESSURE TO EX-
CEED 124 KPA (18 PSI). TURN THE ENGINE OFF.
TO RELEASE THE PRESSURE, ROCK THE TESTER
FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN REMOVING THE
TESTER, DO NOT TURN THE TESTER MORE THAN
1/2 TURN IF THE SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
If there is no immediate pressure increase, pump
the pressure tester until the indicated pressure is
within the system range. Vibration of the gauge
pointer indicates compression or combustion leakage
into the cooling system.
WARNING: DO NOT DISCONNECT THE SPARK
PLUG WIRES WHILE THE ENGINE IS OPERATING.
Fig. 20 Leak Detection Using Black LightÐTypical
Fig. 21 Pressurizing SystemÐTypical
JCOOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURES 7 - 23

WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (FIG. 27). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS. AL-
WAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING
CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 28). If re-
placement is necessary, use only an original equip-
ment clamp with matching number or letter.XJ MODELS WITH 2.5L 4-CYLINDER ENGINE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Observe the previousWARNINGS.Remove ra-
diator cap.
(3) Position drain pan under draincock. Open radi-
ator draincock. Drain radiator.
(4) Remove radiator upper and lower hose clamps
(Figs. 27 and 28). Remove hoses.
(5) Remove E-clip from alignment dowel at radia-
tor lower mounting bracket (Fig. 29).
(6) Disconnect coolant reserve/overflow tank hose
from radiator.
(7) Remove four radiator fan shroud mounting
bolts (Fig. 29). Push shroud back against front of en-
gine.
(8) If equipped, disconnect and plug automatic
transmission fluid cooler lines. Refer to Group 21,
Transmission for procedures.
(9) Remove two radiator top mounting bolts (Fig.
29).
(10) (a) If equipped with air conditioning, remove
the radiator grille mounting screws and remove grill.
Refer to Group 23, Body for procedures.
(b) If equipped, remove the air conditioning con-
denser-to-radiator mounting bolt. Use an open end
wrench to remove bottom bolts (Fig. 30).
(11) Lift radiator straight up and out of vehicle.
Take care not to damage radiator fins. When remov-
ing radiator, note position of the rubber seals located
on the top, bottom and sides of radiator (Fig. 29). To
prevent possible overheating, these seals must be in-
stalled to their original positions.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install radiator behind air conditioning con-
denser with bottom alignment dowel inserted into ra-
diator lower mounting bracket (Fig. 29).
(2) Install E-clip to radiator alignment dowel (Fig.
29).
(3) Tighten the four condenser-to-radiator mount-
ing bolts to 6.2 Nzm (55 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) If removed, install radiator grille.
(5) Tighten radiator top mounting bolts to 6 Nzm
(55 in. lbs.) torque.
(6) If equipped, connect automatic transmission
fluid cooler lines to radiator. Refer to Group 21,
Transmission for procedures.
(7) Install the radiator fan shroud.
(8) Connect the coolant reserve/overflow tank hose.
(9) Connect radiator hoses and install hose clamps.
(10) Connect negative battery cable.
(11) Close the draincock.
(12) Fill cooling system with correct coolant.
(13) Install radiator cap.
(14) Check and adjust automatic transmission
fluid level (if equipped).
Fig. 27 Hose Clamp ToolÐTypical
Fig. 28 Clamp Number/Letter Location
JCOOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURES 7 - 27