1994 JEEP CHEROKEE oil

when the cover is off. The second involves adding to,
or filling the cylinder reservoirs with a non-recom-
mended fluid.
Brake fluid contaminated with only dirt, or debris
usually retains a normal appearance. In some cases,
the foreign material will remain suspended in the
fluid and be visible. The fluid and foreign material
can be removed from the reservoir with a suction
gun but only if the brakes have not been applied. If
the brakes are applied after contamination, system
flushing will be required. The master cylinder may
also have to be disassembled, cleaned and the piston
seals replaced. Foreign material lodged in the reser-
voir compensator/return ports can cause brake drag
by restricting fluid return after brake application.
Brake fluid contaminated by a non-recommended
fluid will usually be discolored, milky, oily looking,
or foamy. In some cases, it may even appear as if the
fluid contains sludge.However, remember that
brake fluid will darken in time and occasionally
be cloudy in appearance. These are normal con-
ditions and should not be mistaken for contami-
nation.
If some type of oil has been added to the system,
the fluid will separate into distinct layers. To verify
this, drain off a sample with a clean suction gun.
Then pour the sample into a glass container and ob-
serve fluid action. If the fluid separates into distinct
layers, it is definitely contaminated.
The only real correction for contamination by non-
recommended fluid is to flush the entire hydraulic
system and replace all the seals.
BRAKE NOISE
Squeak/Squeal
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign
of severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brakeshoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
Thump/Clunk
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. How-
ever, calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can gen-
erate a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brakeshoes can also produce a thump noise.Chatter/Shudder
Brake chatter, or shudder is usually caused by
loose or worn components, or glazed/burnt lining. Ro-
tors with hard spots can also contribute to chatter.
Additional causes of chatter are out of tolerance ro-
tors, brake lining not securely attached to the shoes,
loose wheel bearings and contaminated brake lining.
BRAKELINING CONTAMINATION
Brakelining contamination is usually a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, driving through
deep water puddles, or lining that has become cov-
ered with grease and grit during repair.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a condition similar to grab as the tire loses
and recovers traction.
Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and wheel
tramp and generate shudder during brake operation.
A tire with internal damage such as a severe
bruise or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
DIAGNOSING PARKING BRAKE PROBLEMS
Adjustment Mechanism
Parking brake adjustment is controlled by a
cable tensioner mechanism. This applies to 1991
through 1994 YJ models and 1992 and later XJ
models. The cable tensioner, once adjusted at
the factory, will not need further adjustment un-
der normal circumstances. There are only two
instances when adjustment is required. The first
is when a new tensioner, or cables have been in-
stalled. And the second, is when the tensioner
and cables are disconnected for access to other
brake components.
Parking Brake problem Causes
In most cases, the actual cause of an improperly
functioning parking brake (too loose/too tight/wont
hold), can be traced to a drum brake component.
The leading cause of improper parking brake
operation, is excessive clearance between the
brakeshoes and the drum surface. Excessive
clearance is a result of: lining and/or drum wear;
oversize drums; or inoperative shoe adjuster
components.
Excessive parking brake lever travel (sometimes
described as a loose lever or too loose condition), is
the result of worn brakeshoes/drums, improper
brakeshoe adjustment, or mis-assembled brake parts.
A ``too loose'' condition can also be caused by inop-
erative brakeshoe adjusters. If the adjusters are mis-
5 - 10 BRAKESJ

BRAKE BLEEDINGÐBRAKE FLUID AND LEVELÐBRAKELINES AND HOSES
INDEX
page page
Brake BleedingÐXJ/YJ with ABS Brakes....... 14
Brake BleedingÐXJ/YJ with Standard Brakes . . . 13
Brake Fluid Contamination.................. 13
Brake Fluid Level........................ 13Brakeline Charts......................... 15
Brakelines and Hoses..................... 15
Combination Valve....................... 15
Recommended Brake Fluid................. 13
RECOMMENDED BRAKE FLUID
The only brake fluid recommended for Jeep vehi-
cles with standard or antilock brakes, is Mopar brake
fluid, or an equivalent fluid meeting SAE J1703 and
DOT 3 standards.
Use new brake fluid only to top off the master
cylinder or refill the system. Never use re-
claimed fluid, fluid not meeting the SAE/DOT
standards or fluid from an unsealed container.
Do not use fluid from any container that has
been left open for any length of time. Fluid in
open containers can absorb moisture.
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL
Always clean the master cylinder and cover before
checking fluid level. If not cleaned, dirt from the
cover could enter the fluid. Also check the cover seal
and replace it if torn or distorted.
Correct fluid level is to within 6 mm (1/4 in.) of the
reservoir rim, or to the fill mark on models with a
plastic reservoir. Refer to the Antilock Brake section
for fluid levels on models equipped with ABS brakes.
BRAKE FLUID CONTAMINATION
Oil in the fluid will cause brake system rubber
seals to soften and swell. The seals may also become
porous and begin to deteriorate.
If fluid contamination is suspected, drain off a sam-
ple from the master cylinder. A suction gun or simi-
lar device can be used for this purpose.
Empty the drained fluid into a glass container.
Contaminants in the fluid will cause the fluid to sep-
arate into distinct layers. If contamination has oc-
curred, the system rubber seals, hoses and cups must
be replaced and the system thoroughly flushed with
clean brake fluid.
BRAKE BLEEDINGÐXJ/YJ WITH STANDARD
BRAKES
Use Mopar DOT 3 brake fluid, or an equivalent
meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703-F and DOT 3, to
fill and bleed the system.
On standard brake models, bleeding can be per-
formed either manually or with pressure equipment.
However, if pressure equipment is used, it will be
necessary to hold the front brake metering valveopen in order to bleed the front brakes. The valve
can be held open with a tension clip tool or by hand.
It will also be necessary that a suitable size pressure
tank hose adapter be available for use on the master
cylinder.
MANUAL BLEEDING PROCEDURE
(1) If master cylinder has been overhauled or a
new cylinder will be installed, bleed cylinder on
bench before installation. This shortens time needed
to bleed system and ensures proper cylinder opera-
tion.
(2) Wipe master cylinder reservoir and cap clean
with shop towels.
(3) Remove cover and fill master cylinder reservoir
with Mopar, or equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid.
(4) Open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed
screws.
(5) Close bleed screws after fluid begins flowing
from each bleed screw.
(6) Top off master cylinder reservoir again.
(7) Use following bleed sequence:
²master cylinder
²right rear
²left rear
²right front
²left front
(8) Observe following brake bleeding precautions:
²Do not pump brake pedal at any time while bleed-
ing. Air in system will be compressed into small bub-
bles that are distributed throughout hydraulic
system. This will make a second and third bleeding
operation necessary.
²Bleed only one wheel brake unit at a time and use
a bleed hose to bleed each wheel brake unit (Fig. 7).
²Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw and in-
sert opposite end in glass container partially filled
with brake fluid (Fig. 7). Glass container makes it
easier to see air bubbles as they exit the bleed hose.
²Be sure end of bleed hose is immersed in fluid. Im-
mersing hose end in fluid prevents air from being
drawn back into cylinder and brakeline.
(9) Bleed master cylinder first. Have helper oper-
ate brake pedal while bleeding each master cylinder
fluid outlet line.
JBRAKES 5 - 13

CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page page
Clutch Problem Causes..................... 3
General Diagnosis Information................ 3Inspection and Diagnosis Charts.............. 4
GENERAL DIAGNOSIS INFORMATION
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is obvious, ac-
curate problem diagnosis will usually require a road
test to confirm a problem. Component inspection will
then be required to determine the actual problem
cause.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If chatter, grab,
slip, or improper release is experienced, remove and
inspect the clutch components. However, if the prob-
lem is noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may
be needed as the transmission or another driveline
component may be at fault. Careful observation dur-
ing the test will help narrow the problem area.
CLUTCH PROBLEM CAUSES
CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water, or clutch fluid on the clutch
contact surfaces will cause faulty operation. The
usual result is chatter, slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid, or water/road
splash.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is en-
tering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing
cracks, or through hydraulic line openings. Driving
through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are from loose or damaged slave
cylinder fluid lines and connecting fittings. However,
clutch fluid leaks will usually be noted and corrected
before severe contamination occurs.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
Flywheel Runout
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the in-
dicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However,
minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand
with 180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equip-
ment. Remove only enough material to reduce scor-
ing (approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
Clutch Cover And Disc Runout
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain an-
other disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
JCLUTCH DIAGNOSIS 6 - 3

COOLING SYSTEM
CONTENTS
page page
DIAGNOSIS............................. 4
ENGINE ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS........ 31
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER................. 37GENERAL INFORMATION.................. 1
SERVICE PROCEDURES................... 9
SPECIFICATIONS....................... 38
GENERAL INFORMATION
Throughout this group, references are made to par-
ticular vehicle models by alphabetical designation
(XJ or YJ) or by the particular vehicle nameplate. A
chart showing a breakdown of alphabetical designa-
tions is included in the Introduction section at the
beginning of this manual.
COOLING SYSTEM
The cooling system regulates engine operating tem-
perature. It allows the engine to reach normal oper-
ating temperature as quickly as possible, maintains
normal operating temperature and prevents over-
heating.
The cooling system also provides a means of heat-
ing the passenger compartment and cooling the auto-
matic transmission fluid (if equipped). The cooling
system is pressurized and uses a centrifugal water
pump to circulate coolant throughout the system.
An optional factory installed heavy duty cooling
package is available on most models. The package
consists of a radiator that has an increased numberof cooling fins. XJ models equipped with a 4.0L 6 cyl-
inder engine and heavy duty cooling and/or air con-
ditioning also have an auxiliary electric cooling fan.
COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS
The cooling system consists of:
²A radiator
²Cooling fan (mechanical and/or electrical)
²Thermal viscous fan drive
²Fan shroud
²Radiator pressure cap
²Thermostat
²Coolant reserve/overflow system
²Transmission oil cooler (if equipped with an auto-
matic transmission)
²Coolant
²Water pump
²Hoses and hose clamps
SYSTEM COOLANT ROUTING
For cooling system flow routings, refer to Figs. 1, 2,
3or4.
JCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 1

SERVICE PROCEDURES
INDEX
page page
Coolant................................ 15
Coolant Reserve/Overflow System............ 19
Cooling System Cleaning/Reverse Flushing..... 17
Cooling System Fans..................... 26
Cooling System Hoses.................... 26
Draining Cooling System................... 16
Radiator Pressure Cap.................... 20
Radiators............................... 22Refilling Cooling System................... 17
Testing Cooling System for Leaks............ 18
Thermostat............................. 13
Transmission Oil Coolers................... 29
Water Pump Tests........................ 9
Water PumpsÐGeneral Information............ 9
Water PumpsÐRemoval/Installation........... 10
WATER PUMPSÐGENERAL INFORMATION
A centrifugal water pump circulates coolant
through the water jackets, passages, intake manifold,
radiator core, cooling system hoses and heater core.
The pump is driven from the engine crankshaft by a
drive belt on all engines.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in bearings pressed into the
housing. The housing has a small hole to allow seep-
age to escape. The water pump seals are lubricated
by the antifreeze in the coolant mixture. No addi-
tional lubrication is necessary.
CAUTION: All engines are equipped with a reverse
(counter-clockwise) rotating water pump and vis-
cous fan drive assembly. REVERSE is stamped or
imprinted on the cover of the viscous fan drive and
inner side of the fan. The letter R is stamped into
the back of the water pump impeller (Fig. 1).Engines from previous model years, depending
upon application, may have been equipped with a
forward (clockwise) rotating water pump. Installation
of the wrong water pump will cause engine overheat-
ing.
A quick test to determine if the pump is working is
to check if the heater warms properly. A defective
water pump will not be able to circulate heated cool-
ant through the long heater hose to the heater core.
WATER PUMP TESTS
LOOSE IMPELLER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) Drain the cooling system.
(2) Loosen the fan belt(s).
(3) Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the
water pump.
(4) Bend a stiff clothes hanger or welding rod as
shown in (Fig. 2).
(5) Position the rod in the water pump inlet and
attempt to hold the impeller while turning the fan
blades. If equipped with a viscous fan drive, turn the
water pump shaft with a breaker bar and socket at-
tached to a mounting flange nut. If the impeller is
loose and can be held with the rod while the fan
blades are turning, the pump is defective. If the im-
peller turns, the pump is OK.
Connect the hose and install the coolant, or proceed
with repairs.
INSPECTING FOR INLET RESTRICTIONS
Inadequate heater performance may be caused by a
metal casting restriction in the water pump heater
hose inlet.Fig. 1 Reverse Rotating Water PumpÐTypical
JCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 9

CAUTION: Do not operate an engine without a ther-
mostat, except for servicing or testing.
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS
XJ and YJ models are equipped with On-Board Di-
agnostics for certain cooling system components. Re-
fer to On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) in the Diagnosis
section of this group for additional information. If the
powertrain control module (PCM) detects low engine
coolant temperature, it will record a Diagnostic Trou-
ble Code (DTC) in the PCM memory. The DTC num-
ber for low coolant temperature is 17. Do not change
a thermostat for lack of heat as indicated by the in-
strument panel gauge or heater performance unless a
DTC number 17 is present. Refer to the Diagnosis
section of this group for other probable causes. For
other DTC numbers, refer to On-Board Diagnostics
in the General Diagnosis section of group 14, Fuel
Systems.
The DTC can also be accessed through the DRB
scan tool. Refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diag-
nostic Procedures manual for diagnostic information
and operation of the DRB scan tool.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
(1) Drain the coolant from the radiator until the
level is below the thermostat housing.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUM-
BER 6094) (FIG. 14). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUM-
BER HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER
CLAMPS. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES
WHEN SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with matching number or letter.
(2) Remove radiator upper hose and heater hose at
thermostat housing.
(3) Disconnect wiring connector at engine coolant
temperature sensor.(4) Remove thermostat housing mounting bolts,
thermostat housing, gasket and thermostat (Fig. 15).
Discard old gasket.
(5) Clean the gasket mating surfaces.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the replacement thermostat so that the
pellet, which is encircled by a coil spring, faces the
engine. All thermostats are marked on the outer
flange to indicate the proper installed position.
(a) Observe the recess groove in the engine cyl-
inder head (Fig. 16).
(b) Position thermostat in groove with arrow and
air bleed hole on outer flange pointing up.
(2) Install replacement gasket and thermostat
housing.
Fig. 14 Hose Clamp ToolÐTypical
Fig. 15 Thermostat Removal/Installation
7 - 14 COOLING SYSTEMJ

Leakage Test. Do this if it is certain that coolant is
being lost and no leaks can be detected.
²Drops Slowly: Shows a small leak or seepage is oc-
curring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect the radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal any small leak
holes with a Sealer Lubricant or equivalent. Repair
leak holes and reinspect the system with pressure
applied.
²Drops Quickly: Shows that a serious leakage is oc-
curring. Examine the system for serious external
leakage. If no leaks are visible, inspect for internal
leakage. Large radiator leak holes should be repaired
by a reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain a small
amount of engine oil. Coolant, being heavier will
drain first, or operate engine to churn oil, then ex-
amine dipstick for water globules. Inspect the trans-
mission dipstick for water globules. Inspect the
transmission fluid cooler for leakage. Operate the en-
gine without the pressure cap on the radiator until
thermostat opens.
Attach a Pressure Tester to the filler neck. If pres-
sure builds up quickly, a leak exists as result of a
faulty cylinder head gasket or crack in the engine.
Repair as necessary.
WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW PRESSURE TO EX-
CEED 124 KPA (18 PSI). TURN THE ENGINE OFF.
TO RELEASE THE PRESSURE, ROCK THE TESTER
FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN REMOVING THE
TESTER, DO NOT TURN THE TESTER MORE THAN
1/2 TURN IF THE SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
If there is no immediate pressure increase, pump
the Pressure Tester until the indicated pressure is
within the system range. Vibration of the gauge
pointer indicates compression or combustion leakage
into the cooling system.WARNING: DO NOT DISCONNECT THE SPARK
PLUG WIRES WHILE THE ENGINE IS OPERATING.
CAUTION: Do not operate the engine with a spark
plug shorted for more than a minute. The catalytic
converter may be damaged.
Isolate the compression leak by shorting each
spark plug to the cylinder block. The gauge pointer
should stop or decrease vibration when spark plug
for leaking cylinder is shorted. This happens because
of the absence of combustion pressure.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST (WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER)
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow for thermostat re-
moval. Refer to Thermostat Replacement. Disconnect
the water pump drive belt.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the ther-
mostat housing. Remove the housing and thermostat.
Install the thermostat housing.
Add coolant to the radiator to bring the level to
within 6.3 mm (1/4 in) of the top of the thermostat
housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate the
engine for an excessive period of time. Open the
draincock immediately after the test to eliminate
boil over of coolant.
Start the engine and accelerate rapidly three times
(to approximately 3000 rpm) while observing the
coolant. If internal engine combustion gases are leak-
ing into the cooling system, bubbles will appear in
the coolant. If bubbles do not appear, there is no in-
ternal combustion gas leakage.
COOLANT RESERVE/OVERFLOW SYSTEM
The system works along with the radiator pressure
cap. This is done by using thermal expansion and
contraction of the coolant to keep the coolant free of
trapped air. It provides:
²A volume for coolant expansion and contraction.
²A convenient and safe method for checking/adjust-
ing coolant level at atmospheric pressure. This is
done without removing the radiator pressure cap.
²Some reserve coolant to cover minor leaks and
evaporation or boiling losses.
Fig. 20 Pressurizing SystemÐTypical
JCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 19

The coolant reserve/overflow system consists of a
radiator mounted pressurized cap, a plastic reserve/
overflow tank (Figs. 21, 22 or 23), a tube connecting
the radiator and tank, and an overflow tube on the
side of the tank.
TANK REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
(1) Remove the tube clamp at the tank and remove
tube.(2) On YJ models, remove the windshield washer
reservoir and its mounting bracket.
(3) Remove the tank mounting bolts and remove
tank.
(4) Reverse the preceding steps for installation.
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
All radiators are equipped with a pressure cap.
This cap releases pressure at some point within a
range of 83-110 kPa (12-16 psi). The pressure relief
point (in pounds) is engraved on top of the cap (Fig.
24).
The cooling system will operate at pressures
slightly above atmospheric pressure. This results in a
higher coolant boiling point allowing increased radi-
ator cooling capacity. The cap (Fig. 24) contains a
spring-loaded pressure relief valve. This valve opens
when system pressure reaches the release range of
83-110 kPa (12-16 psi).
A vent valve in the center of the cap allows a small
coolant flow through the cap when coolant is below
boiling temperature. The valve is completely closed
when boiling point is reached. As coolant cools, it
contracts and creates a vacuum in the cooling sys-
tem. This causes the vacuum valve to open and cool-
ant in reserve/overflow tank to be drawn through
connecting hose into radiator. If the vacuum valve is
stuck shut, radiator hoses will collapse on cool-down.
A rubber gasket seals the radiator filler neck. This
is done to maintain vacuum during coolant cool-down
and to prevent leakage when system is under pres-
sure.
Fig. 21 Reserve/Overflow TankÐYJ Models
Fig. 22 Reserve/Overflow TankÐXJ ModelsÐExcept
Right Hand Drive
Fig. 23 Reserve/Overflow TankÐXJ ModelsÐWith
Right Hand Drive
7 - 20 COOLING SYSTEMJ