(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É for
proper seating of rings (Fig. 1).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch
angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
MEASURING WITH PLASTIGAGE
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING CLEARANCE
Engine crankshaft bearing clearances can be deter-
mined by use of Plastigage, or equivalent. The fol-
lowing is the recommended procedures for the use of
Plastigage:
(1) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(2) The total clearance of the main bearings can
only be determined by removing the weight of the
crankshaft. This can be accomplished by either of
two methods:
METHOD - 1 (PREFERRED)ÐShim the bear-
ings adjacent to the bearing to be checked. This will
remove the clearance between upper bearing shell
and the crankshaft. Place a minimum of 0.254 mm
(0.010 inch) shim between the bearing shell and the
adjacent bearing cap. Tighten the bolts to 18 Nzm (13
ft. lbs.) torque.
²ALL ENGINESÐWhen checking No.1 main bear-
ing; shim No.2 main bearing.²ALL ENGINESÐWhen checking No.2 main bear-
ing; shim No.1 and No.3 main bearing.
²ALL ENGINESÐWhen checking No.3 main bear-
ing; shim No.2 and No.4 main bearing.
²ALL ENGINESÐWhen checking No.4 main bear-
ing; shim No.3 and No.5 main bearing.
²2.5L ENGINEÐWhen checking No.5 main bear-
ing; shim No.4 main bearing.
²4.0L ENGINEÐWhen checking No.5 main bear-
ing; shim No.4 and No.6 main bearing.
²4.0L ENGINEÐWhen checking No.6 main bear-
ing; shim No.5 and No.7 main bearing.
²4.0L ENGINEÐWhen checking No.7 main bear-
ing; shim No.6 main bearing.
Remove all shims before assembling engine.
METHOD - 2 (ALTERNATIVE)ÐThe weight of
the crankshaft is supported by a jack under the coun-
terweight adjacent to the bearing being checked.
(3) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing cap shell (Fig. 2). Position the
Plastigage approximately 6.35 mm (1/4 inch) off cen-
ter and away from the oil holes. In addition, suspect
areas can be checked by placing the Plastigage in
that area. Tighten the bearing cap bolts of the bear-
ing being checked to 108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.DO
NOT rotate the crankshaft or the Plastigage may
be smeared, giving inaccurate results.
(4) Remove the bearing cap and compare the width
of the flattened Plastigage with the scale provided on
the package (Fig. 3). Plastigage generally comes in 2
scales (one scale is in inches and the other is a met-
ric scale). Locate the band closest to the same width.
This band shows the amount of clearance. Differ-
ences in readings between the ends indicate the
amount of taper present. Record all readings taken
(refer to Engine Specifications).
(5) Plastigage is available in a variety of clearance
ranges. The 0.025-0.076 mm (0.001-0.003 inch) range
is usually the most appropriate for checking engine
bearing clearances.
Fig. 1 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
Fig. 2 Placement of Plastigage in Bearing Shell
JENGINES 9 - 3
CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLEARANCE
Engine connecting rod bearing clearances can be
determined by use of Plastigage, or equivalent. The
following is the recommended procedures for the use
of Plastigage:
(1) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(2) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing cap shell (Fig. 2). Position the
Plastigage approximately 6.35 mm (1/4 inch) off cen-
ter and away from the oil holes. In addition, suspect
areas can be checked by placing the Plastigage in the
suspect area.
(3) The crankshaft must be turned until the con-
necting rod to be checked starts moving toward the
top of the engine. Only then should the rod cap with
Plastigage in place be assembled. Tighten the rod
cap nut to 45 Nzm (33 ft. lbs.) torque.DO NOT ro-
tate the crankshaft or the Plastigage may be
smeared, giving inaccurate results.
(4) Remove the bearing cap and compare the width
of the flattened Plastigage with the scale provided on
the package (Fig. 3). Plastigage generally comes in 2
scales (one scale is in inches and the other is a met-
ric scale). Locate the band closest to the same width.
This band shows the amount of clearance. Differ-
ences in readings between the ends indicate the
amount of taper present. Record all readings taken
(refer to Engine Specifications).
(5) Plastigage is available in a variety of clearance
ranges. The 0.025-0.076 mm (0.001-0.003 inch) range
is usually the most appropriate for checking engine
bearing clearances.
REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole.
This brings the hole back to its original thread size.
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
SERVICE ENGINE ASSEMBLY (SHORT BLOCK)
A service replacement engine assembly (short
block) may be installed whenever the original cylin-
der block is defective or damaged beyond repair. It
consists of the cylinder block, crankshaft, piston and
rod assemblies. If needed, the camshaft must be pro-
cured separately and installed before the engine is
installed in the vehicle.
A short block is identified with the letter ``S'' stamped
on the same machined surface where the build date
code is stamped for complete engine assemblies.
Installation includes the transfer of components
from the defective or damaged original engine. Fol-
low the appropriate procedures for cleaning, inspec-
tion and torque tightening.
HYDROSTATIC LOCK
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(2) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and in-
take manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure in
the cylinder head. Remove the plugs from the engine.
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (i.e. coolant,
fuel, oil, etc.).
(7) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt engine oil into the cylinders to lubricate
the walls. This will prevent damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil (refer to Group 0, Lubrica-
tion and Maintenance).
(15) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
Fig. 3 Clearance Measurement
9 - 4 ENGINESJ
2.5L ENGINE SERVICE PROCEDURES
INDEX
page page
Camshaft............................... 29
Camshaft Pin Replacement................. 31
Crankshaft Main Bearings.................. 40
Cylinder Block........................... 45
Engine AssemblyÐXJ Vehicles.............. 14
Engine AssemblyÐYJ Vehicles.............. 16
Engine Cylinder Head..................... 19
Engine Cylinder Head Cover................ 18
Engine Damper.......................... 13
Engine MountÐRear...................... 12
Engine MountsÐFront..................... 10
General Information........................ 9
Hydraulic Tappets........................ 24Oil Pan ................................ 32
Oil Pump............................... 33
Pistons and Connecting Rods............... 34
Rear Main Oil Seals...................... 44
Rocker Arms............................ 19
Specifications........................... 47
Timing Case Cover....................... 27
Timing Case Cover Oil Seal Replacement...... 26
Timing Chain and Sprockets................ 28
Valve Springs and Oil Seals................ 21
Valve Timing............................ 26
Valves and Valve Springs.................. 22
Vibration Damper........................ 26
GENERAL INFORMATION
The 2.5 liter (150 CID) four-cylinder engine is an
In-line, lightweight, overhead valve engine (Fig. 1).
This engine is designed for unleaded fuel.
The engine cylinder head has dual quench-type
combustion chambers that create turbulence and fast
burning of the air/fuel mixture. This results in good
fuel economy.
The cylinders are numbered 1 through 4 from front
to rear. The firing order is 1-3-4-2 (Fig. 2).
The crankshaft rotation is clockwise, when viewed
from the front of the engine. The crankshaft rotates
within five main bearings and the camshaft rotates
within four bearings.
BUILD DATE CODE
The engine Build Date Code is located on a ma-
chined surface on the right side of the cylinder block
between the No.3 and No.4 cylinders (Fig. 3).
Fig. 1 Engine Description
Fig. 2 Engine Firing Order
Fig. 3 Build Date Code Location
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 9
The digits of the code identify:
(1) 1st DigitÐThe year (4 = 1994).
(2) 2nd & 3rd DigitsÐThe month (01 - 12).
(3) 4th & 5th DigitsÐThe engine type/fuel system/
compression ratio (HX = A 2.5 liter (150 CID) 9.1:1
compression ratio engine with a multi-point fuel in-
jection system).
(4) 6th & 7th DigitsÐThe day of engine build (01 -
31).
FOR EXAMPLE:Code * 401HX23 * identifies a
2.5 liter (150 CID) engine with a multi-point fuel in-
jection system, 9.1:1 compression ratio and built on
January 23, 1994.
OVERSIZE AND UNDERSIZE COMPONENT
CODES
Some engines may be built with oversize or under-
size components such as:
²Oversize cylinder bores.
²Oversize camshaft bearing bores.
²Undersize crankshaft main bearing journals.
²Undersize connecting rod journals.
These engines are identified by a letter code (Fig.
4) stamped on the oil filter boss near the distributor
(Fig. 5).
ENGINE MOUNTSÐFRONT
The front mounts support the engine at each side.
These supports are made of resilient rubber.
REMOVALÐXJ VEHICLES
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Support the engine.
(4) Remove through bolt nut (Fig. 6). DO NOT re-
move the through bolt.
(5) Remove the retaining bolts/nuts from the sup-
port cushions (Fig. 6).
(6) Remove the through bolt.
(7) Remove the support cushions.
INSTALLATIONÐXJ VEHICLES
(1) If the engine support bracket was removed, po-
sition the LEFT bracket (Fig. 6) and the RIGHT
bracket with generator brace (Fig. 7) onto the cylin-
der block. Install the bolts and stud nuts.
(a) RIGHT SIDE (Fig. 7)ÐTighten the bolts to
61 Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the stud nuts to
46 Nzm (34 ft. lbs.) torque.
(b) LEFT SIDE (Fig. 6)ÐTighten the bolts to 61
Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) If the support cushion brackets were removed,
position the brackets onto the lower front sill (Figs. 6
and 8). Install the bolts and stud nuts. Tighten the
bolts to 54 Nzm (40 ft. lbs.) torque and the stud nuts
to 41 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Place the support cushions onto the support
cushion brackets (Fig. 6). Tighten the right support
cushion nuts to 65 Nzm (48 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten
the left support cushion bolt/nut to 41 Nzm (30 ft.
lbs.) torque.
Fig. 4 Oversize and Undersize Component Codes
Fig. 5 Oversize and Undersize Component Code
Location
9 - 10 2.5L ENGINEJ
INSTALLATIONÐYJ VEHICLES
(1) If the engine support bracket was removed, po-
sition the bracket onto the block and install the at-
taching bolts (Fig. 9). Tighten the bolts to 62 Nzm
(46 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Place the support cushion on the support cush-
ion bracket (Fig. 9). Install the support cushion re-
taining bolts and nuts. Tighten the bolts/nuts to 52
Nzm (38 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the through bolt and the retaining nut
(Fig. 9). Tighten the through bolt nut to 69 Nzm (51
ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Remove the engine support.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Connect negative cable to battery.
ENGINE MOUNTÐREAR
A resilient rubber cushion supports the transmis-
sion at the rear between the transmission extension
housing and the rear support crossmember or skid
plate.
REMOVALÐXJ VEHICLES
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle and support the transmission.
(3) Remove the nuts holding the support cushion to
the crossmember (Figs. 10 and 11). Remove the cross-
member.
(4)MANUAL TRANSMISSION:
(a) Remove the support cushion nuts and remove
the cushion.
(b) If necessary, remove the bolts holding the
transmission support bracket to the transmission
(Fig. 10). Remove the bracket.
(5)AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:
(a) Remove the support cushion bolts and remove
the cushion and the transmission support bracket.(b) If necessary on 2WD vehicles, remove the
bolts holding the transmission support adaptor
bracket to the transmission (Fig. 11). Remove the
adaptor bracket.
INSTALLATIONÐXJ VEHICLES
(1)MANUAL TRANSMISSION:
(a) If removed, position the transmission support
bracket to the transmission and install the bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 43 Nzm (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(b) Position the support cushion onto the trans-
mission support bracket. Install and tighten the
nuts to 46 Nzm (34 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2)AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSON:
(a) If removed, position the transmission support
adaptor bracket (2WD vehicles) to the transmission
and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts to 75 Nzm
(55 ft. lbs.) torque.
(b) Position the transmission support bracket
and support cushion to the transmission and install
the bolts. Tighten the bolts to 75 Nzm (55 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Position the crossmember onto the support
cushion studs and install the nuts. Tighten the nuts
to 22 Nzm (192 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install the crossmember to sill bolts and
tighten to 41 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 10 Rear MountÐXJ Vehicles (Manual
Transmission)
Fig. 11 Rear MountÐXJ Vehicles (Automatic
Transmission)
9 - 12 2.5L ENGINEJ
(14) Install the remaining flywheel housing bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 38 Nzm (28 ft. lbs.) torque.
(15) Install the starter motor and connect the ca-
ble. Tighten the bolts to 45 Nzm (33 ft. lbs.) torque.
(16) Install the oil filter.
(17) Lower the vehicle.
(18) Connect the coolant hoses and tighten the
clamps.
(19) If equipped with power steering:
(a) Remove the protective caps
(b) Connect the hoses to the fittings at the steer-
ing gear. Tighten the nut to 52 Nzm (38 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(c) Fill the pump reservoir with fluid.
(20) Remove the pulley-to-water pump flange
alignment capscrew and install the fan and spacer or
Tempatrol fan assembly.
(21) Tighten the serpentine drive belt according to
the specifications listed in Group 7, Cooling System.
(22) Install the fan shroud and radiator.
(23) Connect the radiator hoses.
(24) Connect the heater hoses.
(25) Connect the throttle valve rod and retainer.
(26) Connect the throttle cable and install the rod.
(27) Install the throttle valve rod spring.
(28) Connect the speed control cable, if equipped.
(29) Connect the oxygen sensor wire connector.
(30) Install the vacuum hose and check valve on
the brake booster.
(31) Connect the coolant temperature sensor wire
connector.
(32) Connect the idle speed actuator wire connec-
tor.
(33) Connect the fuel inlet and return hoses at the
fuel rail. Verify that the quick-connect fitting assem-
bly fits securely over the fuel lines by giving the fuel
lines a firm tug.
(34) Install the fuel line bracket to the intake
manifold.
(35) Connect all fuel injection wire connections.
(36) Install the engine ground strap.
(37) Connect the ignition coil wire connector.
(38) Remove the coolant temperature sending unit
to permit air to escape from the block. Fill the cool-
ing system with coolant. Install the coolant tempera-
ture sending unit when the system is filled.
(39) Install the battery and connect the battery ca-
bles.
(40) Install the air cleaner bonnet to the throttle
body.
(41) Install the air cleaner.
(42) Lower the hood and secure in place.
(43) Start the engine and inspect for leaks.
(44) Stop the engine and check the fluid levels.
Add fluid, as required.ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD COVER
A cured gasket is part of the engine cylinder head
cover.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Disconnect the Crankcase Ventilation (CCV)
vacuum hose from engine cylinder head cover (Fig.
1).
(3) Disconnect the fresh air inlet hose from the en-
gine cylinder head cover (Fig. 1).
(4) Remove the engine cylinder head cover mount-
ing bolts.
(5) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
CLEANING
Remove any original sealer from the cover sealing
surface of the engine cylinder head and clean the
surface using a fabric cleaner.
Remove all residue from the sealing surface using
a clean, dry cloth.
INSPECTION
Inspect the engine cylinder head cover for cracks.
Replace the cover, if cracked.
The original grey gasket material should NOT be
removed. If sections of the gasket material are miss-
ing or are compressed, replace the engine cylinder
head cover. However, sections with minor damage
such as small cracks, cuts or chips may be repaired
with a hand held applicator. The new material must
be smoothed over to maintain gasket height. Allow
the gasket material to cure prior to engine cylinder
head cover installation.
INSTALLATION
(1) If a replacement cover is installed, transfer the
CCV valve grommet the oil filler cap from the origi-
nal cover to the replacement cover.
(2) Install engine cylinder head cover. Tighten the
mounting bolts to 10 Nzm (85 in. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 1 Engine Cylinder Head Cover
9 - 18 2.5L ENGINEJ
(3) Connect the CCV hoses (Fig. 1).
(4) Connect negative cable to battery.
ROCKER ARMS
This procedure can be done with the engine in or
out of the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(2) Remove the capscrews at each bridge and pivot
assembly (Fig. 2). Alternately loosen the capscrews
one turn at a time to avoid damaging the bridges.
(3) Check for rocker arm bridges which are caus-
ing misalignment of the rocker arm to valve tip area.
(4) Remove the bridges, pivots and corresponding
pairs of rocker arms (Fig. 2). Place them on a bench
in the same order as removed.
(5) Remove the push rods and place them on a
bench in the same order as removed.
CLEANING
Clean all the components with cleaning solvent.
Use compressed air to blow out the oil passages in
the rocker arms and push rods.
INSPECTION
Inspect the pivot surface area of each rocker arm.
Replace any that are scuffed, pitted, cracked or ex-
cessively worn.
Inspect the valve stem tip contact surface of each
rocker arm and replace any rocker arm that is deeply
pitted.
Inspect each push rod end for excessive wear and
replace as required. If any push rod is excessivelyworn because of lack of oil, replace it and inspect the
corresponding hydraulic tappet for excessive wear.
Inspect the push rods for straightness by rolling
them on a flat surface or by shining a light between
the push rod and the flat surface.
A wear pattern along the length of the push rod is
not normal. Inspect the engine cylinder head for ob-
struction if this condition exists.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the ball ends of the push rods with
Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent and in-
stall push rods in their original locations. Ensure
that the bottom end of each push rod is centered in
the tappet plunger cap seat.
(2) Using Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equiv-
alent, lubricate the area of the rocker arm that the
pivot contacts. Install rocker arms, pivots and bridge
above each cylinder in their originally position.
(3) Loosely install the capscrews through each
bridge.
(4) At each bridge, tighten the capscrews alter-
nately, one turn at a time, to avoid damaging the
bridge. Tighten the capscrews to 28 Nzm (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(5) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD
This procedure can be done with the engine in or
out of the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAIN COCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the coolant and disconnect the hoses at
the engine thermostat housing. DO NOT waste reus-
able coolant. If the solution is clean and is being
drained only to service the engine or cooling system,
drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse.
(3) Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(4) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(5) Remove the capscrews, bridge and pivot assem-
blies and rocker arms (Fig. 2).
(6) Remove the push rods (Fig. 2).Retain the
push rods, bridges, pivots and rocker arms in
the same order as removed.
(7) Loosen the serpentine drive belt at the power
steering pump, if equipped or at the idler pulley (re-
fer to Group 7, Cooling System for the proper proce-
dure).
(8) If equipped with air conditioning, perform the
following:
Fig. 2 Rocker Arm Assembly
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 19
(a) Remove the bolts from the A/C compressor
mounting bracket and set the compressor aside.
(b) Remove the air conditioner compressor
bracket bolts from the engine cylinder head.
(c) Loosen the through bolt at the bottom of the
bracket.
(9) If equipped, disconnect the power steering
pump bracket. Set the pump and bracket aside. DO
NOT disconnect the hoses.
(10) Remove the fuel lines and vacuum advance
hose.
(11) Remove the intake and engine exhaust mani-
folds from the engine cylinder head (refer to Group
11, Exhaust System and Intake Manifold for the
proper procedures).
(12) Disconnect the ignition wires and remove the
spark plugs.
(13) Disconnect the temperature sending unit wire
connector.
(14) Remove the ignition coil and bracket assem-
bly.
(15) Remove the engine cylinder head bolts.
(16) Remove the engine cylinder head and gasket
(Fig. 3).
(17) If this was the first time the bolts were re-
moved, put a paint dab on the top of the bolt. If the
bolts have a paint dab on the top of the bolt or it
isn't known if they were used before, discard the
bolts.
(18) Stuff clean lint free shop towels into the cyl-
inder bores.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the engine cylinder head and cyl-
inder block mating surfaces. Clean the intake and
exhaust manifold and engine cylinder head mating
surfaces. Remove all gasket material and carbon.
Check to ensure that no coolant or foreign material
has fallen into the tappet bore area.
Remove the carbon deposits from the combustion
chambers and top of the pistons.
INSPECTION
Use a straightedge and feeler gauge to check the
flatness of the engine cylinder head and block mat-
ing surfaces.
INSTALLATION
The engine cylinder head gasket is a composition
gasket. The gasket is to be installed DRY.DO NOT
use a gasket sealing compound on the gasket.
If the engine cylinder head is to be replaced and
the original valves used, measure the valve stem di-
ameter. Only standard size valves can be used with a
service replacement engine cylinder head unless the
replacement head valve stem guide bores are reamed
to accommodate oversize valve stems. Remove all
carbon buildup and reface the valves.
(1) Fabricate two engine cylinder head alignment
dowels from used head bolts (Fig. 4). Use the longest
head bolt. Cut the head of the bolt off below the hex
head. Then cut a slot in the top of the dowel to allow
easier removal with a screwdriver.
(2) Install one dowel in bolt hole No.10 and the
other dowel in bolt hole No.8 (Fig. 5).
(3) Remove the shop towels from the cylinder
bores. Coat the bores with clean engine oil.
(4) Place the engine cylinder head gasket (with the
numbers facing up) over the dowels.
Fig. 3 Engine Cylinder Head Assembly
Fig. 4 Fabricate Alignment Dowels
Fig. 5 Alignment Dowel Locations
9 - 20 2.5L ENGINEJ