1993 FORD MONDEO relay

Caution: Don’t drive the vehicle
without a thermostat. The lack of
a thermostat will slow warm-up
time. The engine management system’s
ECU will then stay in warm-up mode for
longer than necessary, causing emissions
and fuel economy to suffer.
9If the radiator top hose is hot, it means that
the coolant is flowing and the thermostat is
open. Consult the “Fault diagnosis”section at
the front of this manual to assist in tracing
possible cooling system faults.
Thermostat test
10If the thermostat remains in the open
position at room temperature, it is faulty, and
must be renewed as a matter of course.
11To test it fully, suspend the (closed)
thermostat on a length of string in a container
of cold water, with a thermometer beside it;
ensure that neither touches the side of the
container.
12Heat the water, and check the
temperature at which the thermostat begins to
open; compare this value with that specified.
Continue to heat the water until the
thermostat is fully open; the temperature at
which this should happen is stamped in the
unit’s end. Remove the thermostat and allow
it to cool down; check that it closes fully.
13If the thermostat does not open and close
as described, if it sticks in either position, or if
it does not open at the specified temperature,
it must be renewed.
Refitting
14Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Clean the mating surfaces
carefully, renew the thermostat’s sealing ring
if it is worn or damaged, then refit the
thermostat with its air bleed valve uppermost
(see illustration). Tighten the water outlet
bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.
15Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
16Start the engine and allow it to reach
normal operating temperature, then check for
leaks and proper thermostat operation.
Note:Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Testing
1The radiator cooling fan is controlled by the
engine management system’s ECU, acting on
the information received from the coolant
temperature sensor. Where twin fans or two-
speed fans are fitted, control is through a
resistor assembly, secured to the bottom left-
hand corner of the fan shroud - this can be
renewed separately if faulty.
2First, check the relevant fuses and relays
(see Chapter 12).
3To test the fan motor, unplug the electrical
connector, and use fused jumper wires to
connect the fan directly to the battery. If the
fan still does not work, renew the motor.
4If the motor proved sound, the fault lies in
the coolant temperature sensor (see Section 6
for testing details), in the wiring loom (see
Chapter 12 for testing details) or in the engine
management system (see Chapter 6).
Removal and refitting
5Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(see Chapter 5, Section 1).
6Unbolt the resonator support bracket from
the engine compartment front crossmember.
Slacken the two clamp screws securing the
resonator to the air mass meter and plenum
chamber hoses, then swing the resonator up
clear of the thermostat housing (see Chapter 4).7Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
8Remove the radiator top hose completely.
Disconnect the metal coolant pipe/hose from
the thermostat, and unbolt the coolant pipe
from the exhaust manifold heat shield.
9Unplug the cooling fan electrical
connector(s), then release all wiring and hoses
from the fan shroud.
10Unscrew the two nuts securing the fan
shroud, then lift the assembly to disengage it
from its bottom mountings and from the
radiator top edge (see illustrations).
11Withdraw the fan and shroud as an
assembly (see illustration).
12At the time of writing, the fan, motor and
shroud are available only as a complete
assembly, and must be renewed together if
faulty.
13Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the shroud is settled
correctly at all four mounting points before
refitting and tightening the nuts.
Note:Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Coolant temperature gauge
sender
Testing
1If the coolant temperature gauge is inopera-
tive, check the fuses first (see Chapter 12).
2If the gauge indicates Hot at any time,
consult the “Fault finding”section at the end
of this manual, to assist in tracing possible
cooling system faults.
3If the gauge indicates Hot shortly after the
engine is started from cold, unplug the
coolant temperature sender’s electrical
connector. If the gauge reading now drops,
renew the sender. If the reading remains high,
the wire to the gauge may be shorted to earth,
or the gauge is faulty.
4If the gauge fails to indicate after the engine
has been warmed up (approximately
10 minutes) and the fuses are known to be
sound, switch off the engine. Unplug the
6 Cooling system electrical
switches and sensors-
testing, removal and refitting
5 Radiator electric cooling
fan(s)- testing,
removal and refitting
3•4 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
4.14 Ensure thermostat is refitted as
shown
5.10A Fan shroud is secured at top by
mounting nut (A), at bottom by clip (B) . . .5.10B . . . and is hooked over radiator top
edge (one point arrowed)5.11 Removing radiator electric cooling
fan and shroud assembly
procarmanuals.com

which pulley, disconnect the first cable end
nipple from the throttle actuator’s upper
pulley, then slide the cable outer upwards out
of the actuator housing. Disconnect the
second cable in the same way from the
actuator’s lower pulley.
6Working in the passenger compartment,
reach up to the top of the accelerator pedal.
Pull the end fitting and collar out of the pedal,
then release the cable inner wire through the
slot in the pedal. Tie a length of string to the
end of the cable.
7Returning to the engine compartment, pull
the cable through the bulkhead until the string
can be untied and the pedal-to-actuator cable
removed.
Refitting
8Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Use the string to draw the pedal-
to-actuator cable through the bulkhead.
Ensure that each cable end is connected to
the correct actuator pulley.
9Adjust both cables as described below.
Adjustment
Note:Both sections of the cable must be
adjusted together, even if only one has been
disturbed.
10Remove the plenum chamber (see
Section 4).
11Remove the metal clip from the adjuster
of each cable section (see illustration), and
lubricate the adjusters’ grommets with soapy
water.
12Remove any slack by pulling both cable
outers as far as possible out of their
respective adjusters.
13Unplug the TCS throttle actuator’s
electrical connector, and prise off its cover.
Lock both pulleys together by pushing a
locking pin (a pin punch or a similar tool of
suitable size) into their alignment holes.
Disconnect the actuator-to-throttle housing
cable’s end nipple from the throttle linkage.
14Have an assistant depress the accelerator
pedal fully. The pedal-to-actuator cable outer
will move back into the adjuster; hold it there,
and refit the clip.
15Connect the actuator-to-throttle housing
cable end nipple to the throttle linkage, andcheck that the cable outer’s grommet is
correctly secured in the housing bracket.
16Again have the assistant depress the
accelerator pedal fully. The actuator-to-
throttle housing cable outer will move back
into the adjuster; hold it there, and refit the
clip.
17Remove the locking pin from the pulleys.
Check that the throttle valve moves smoothly
and easily from the fully-closed to the fully-
open position and back again, as the
assistant depresses and releases the
accelerator pedal. Re-adjust the cable(s) if
required.
18When the setting is correct, refit the TCS
throttle actuator’s cover and electrical
connector, then refit the plenum chamber (see
Section 4).
1Disconnect the cable inner wire from the
pedal - see Section 5 or 6, as appropriate.
2Undo the retaining nuts and bolt, then
withdraw the pedal assembly (see
illustration).
3Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Adjust the cable(s) as described in
the relevant Section of this Chapter.
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas-type appliance
(such as a water heater or clothes dryer)
with a pilot light is present. If you spill any
fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately
with soap and water. When you perform
any kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses, and have a Class B type
fire extinguisher on hand.
Fuel pump operation check
1Switch on the ignition and listen for the fuel
pump (the sound of an electric motor running,
audible from beneath the rear seats). Assuming
there is sufficient fuel in the tank, the pump
should start and run for approximately one or
two seconds, then stop, each time the ignition
is switched on. Note:If the pump runs
continuously all the time the ignition is switched
on, the electronic control system is running in
the backup (or “limp-home”) mode referred to
by Ford as “Limited Operation Strategy” (LOS).
This almost certainly indicates a fault in the
ECU itself, and the vehicle should therefore be
taken to a Ford dealer for a full test of the
complete system, using the correct diagnostic
equipment; do not waste time trying to test the
system without such facilities.
2Listen for fuel return noises from the fuel
pressure regulator. It should be possible to
feel the fuel pulsing in the regulator and in the
feed hose from the fuel filter.
3If the pump does not run at all, check the
fuse, relay and wiring (see Chapter 6).
Fuel pressure check
3A fuel pressure gauge, equipped with an
adaptor to suit the Schrader-type valve on the
fuel rail pressure test/release fitting
(identifiable by its blue plastic cap, and
located on the union of the fuel feed line and
the fuel rail) is required for the following
procedure. If the Ford special tool 29-033 is
available (see Section 2), the tool can be
attached to the valve, and a conventional-type
pressure gauge attached to the tool.
4If using the service tool, ensure that its tap
is turned fully anti-clockwise, then attach it to
the valve. Connect the pressure gauge to the
service tool. If using a fuel pressure gauge
with its own adaptor, connect it in accordance
with its maker’s instructions (see illustration).
5Start the engine and allow it to idle. Note
the gauge reading as soon as the pressure
stabilises, and compare it with the pressure
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
(a) If the pressure is high, check for a
restricted fuel return line. If the line is
clear, renew the pressure regulator.
8 Fuel pump/fuel pressure -
check
7 Accelerator pedal -
removal and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•5
4
6.11 Location of TCS throttle actuator-to-
throttle housing cable adjuster (arrowed)7.2 Removing the accelerator pedal
assembly8.4 A fuel pressure gauge, equipped with
an adaptor to suit the Schrader-type valve
on the fuel rail pressure test/release fitting,
is needed to check fuel pressure
procarmanuals.com

into the inlet ports, just above the inlet valves,
by four fuel injectors. The system also
includes features such as the flushing of fresh
(ie, cold) fuel around each injector on start-up,
thus improving hot starts.
The amount of fuel supplied by the injectors
is precisely controlled by an Electronic
Control Unit (ECU). The ECU uses the signals
derived from the engine speed/crankshaft
position sensor and the camshaft position
sensor, to trigger each injector separately in
cylinder firing order (sequential injection), with
benefits in terms of better fuel economy and
lower exhaust emissions.
Air induction system
The air system consists of an air filter
housing, an air mass meter, an intake
resonator and plenum chamber, and a throttle
housing. The air mass meter is an information-
gathering device for the ECU; it uses a “hot-
wire” system to send the ECU a constantly-
varying (analogue) voltage signal
corresponding to the volume of air passing
into the engine. Another sensor in the air mass
meter measures intake air temperature. The
ECU uses these signals to calculate the mass
of air entering the engine.
The throttle valve inside the throttle housing
is controlled by the driver, through the
accelerator pedal. As the valve opens, the
amount of air that can pass through the
system increases. The throttle potentiometer
opens further, the air mass meter’s signal
alters, and the ECU opens each injector for a
longer duration, to increase the amount of fuel
delivered to the inlet ports.
Electronic control system
The ECU controls the fuel injection system,
as well as the other sub-systems which make
up the entire engine management system. It
receives signals from a number of information
sensors, which monitor such variables as
intake air mass and temperature, coolant
temperature, engine speed and position,
acceleration/deceleration, and exhaust gas
oxygen content. These signals help the ECU
determine the injection duration necessary for
the optimum air/fuel ratio. These sensors and
associated ECU-controlled relays are located
throughout the engine compartment. For
further information regarding the ECU and its
control of the engine management system,
see Chapter 6.
Idle speed and mixture
adjustment - general
Both the idle speed and mixture are under
the control of the ECU, and cannot be
adjusted. Not only can they not be adjusted,
they cannot even be checked, except with the
use of special diagnostic equipment (see
Chapter 6) - this makes it a task for a Ford
dealer service department. Do notattempt to
“adjust” these settings in any way without
such equipment.
If the idle speed and mixture are thought tobe incorrect, take the vehicle to a Ford dealer
for the complete system to be tested.
On models equipped with a heated
windscreen, an idle-increase solenoid valve is
fitted, which raises the idle speed to
compensate for the increased load on the
engine when the heated windscreen is
switched on. When the valve is open, air from
the plenum chamber bypasses the throttle
housing and idle speed control valve, passing
directly into the inlet manifold through the
union on its left-hand end. The system is
active only for the four minutes that the
heated windscreen circuit is live, and is
supplementary to the main (ECU-controlled)
idle speed regulation.
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so extra precautions
must be taken when working on
any part of the fuel system. Do
not smoke, or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work
in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance
with a pilot light is present. While
performing any work on the fuel system,
wear safety glasses, and have a dry
chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher on
hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin,
rinse it off immediately with soap and
water.
Note: This is an initial check of the fuel delivery
and air induction sub-systems of the engine
management system, to be carried out in
conjunction with the operational check of the
fuel pump (see Section 8), and as part of the
preliminary checks of the complete engine
management system (see Section 3 of
Chapter 6).
1Check the earth wire connections for
tightness. Check all wiring and electrical
connectors that are related to the system.
Loose electrical connectors and poor earths
can cause many problems that resemble
more serious malfunctions.
2Check to see that the battery is fully-
charged. The ECU and sensors depend on an
accurate supply voltage to properly meter the
fuel.
3Check the air filter element - a dirty or
partially-blocked filter will severely impede
performance and economy (see Chapter 1).
4If a blown fuse is found, renew it and see if
it blows again. If it does, search for a short-
circuited wire in the harness related to the
system (see Chapter 6).
5Check the air intake duct from the intake to
the inlet manifold for leaks, which will result in
an excessively-lean mixture. Also check the
condition of the vacuum hoses connected to
the inlet manifold.
6Remove the plenum chamber from the
throttle housing. Check the throttle valve for
dirt, carbon or other residue build-up. If it’sdirty, seek the advice of a Ford dealer - since
the electronic control system is designed to
compensate for factors such as the build-up
of dirt in the throttle housing, it may well be
best to leave it dirty, unless the deposits are
extensive. Note: A warning label on the
housing states specifically that the housing
bore and the throttle valve have a special
coating, and must not be cleaned using
carburettor cleaner, as this may damage it.
7With the engine running, place a
screwdriver or a stethoscope against each
injector, one at a time. Listen through the
screwdriver handle or stethoscope for a
clicking sound, indicating operation.
8If an injector isn’t operating (or sounds
different from the others), turn off the engine,
and unplug the electrical connector from the
injector. Check the resistance across the
terminals of the injector, and compare your
reading with the resistance value listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. If the resistance
isn’t as specified, renew the injector.
9A rough idle, diminished performance
and/or increased fuel consumption could also
be caused by clogged or fouled fuel injectors.
Fuel additives that can sometimes clean
fouled injectors are available at car accessory
shops.
10The remainder of the system checks
should be left to a dealer service department
or other qualified repair specialist, as there is
a chance that the ECU may be damaged if
tests are not performed properly.
Warning: The fuel system
pressure must be released before
any part of the system is
disturbed - see Section 2. Petrol
is extremely flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on any part of
the fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allow
open flames or bare light bulbs, near the
work area. Don’t work in a garage where a
natural gas-type appliance (such as a
water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot
light is present. If you spill any fuel on your
skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and
water. When you perform any kind of work
on the fuel system, wear safety glasses,
and have a Class B type fire extinguisher
on hand.
Throttle housing
Check
1Remove the plenum chamber (see Sec-
tion 4), and verify that the throttle linkage
operates smoothly.
2If the housing bore and valve are dirty
enough for you to think that this might be the
cause of a fault, seek the advice of a Ford
dealer. Do notclean the housing (see the
notes in the checking procedure given in
Section 15).
16 Fuel system components-
check and renewal
15 Fuel injection system/engine
management system - check
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•9
4
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Chapter 9 Braking system
ABS hydraulic unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
ABS relay box - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
ABS wheel sensor - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Brake pedal-to-servo cross-link (right-hand-drive models
only) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Front brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Front brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Handbrake cables - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Handbrake lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Hydraulic pipes and hoses - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . 14
Hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Master cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Pressure-control relief valve (ABS models) - removal and refitting . . 19
Pressure-control relief valve (non-ABS models) - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Rear brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Rear brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Rear brake drum - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Rear brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Rear brake shoes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Stop-light switch - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
TCS inhibitor switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
TCS throttle actuator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Vacuum servo unit vacuum hose and non-return valve -
removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Front brakes
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ventilated disc, with single-piston floating caliper
Disc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260.0 mm
Disc thickness:
New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24.15 mm
Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.20 mm
Maximum disc run-out (fitted) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm
Maximum disc thickness variation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm
Front hub face maximum run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm
Rear drum brakes
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Leading and trailing shoes, with automatic adjusters
Drum diameter:
New:
1.6 Saloon/Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203.0 mm
1.8 and 2.0 Saloon/Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228.6 mm
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228.6 mm
Maximum diameter:
1.6 Saloon/Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204.2 mm
1.8 and 2.0 Saloon/Hatchback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229.6 mm
Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229.6 mm
Rear disc brakes
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solid disc, with single-piston floating caliper
Disc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252.0 mm
Disc thickness:
New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.0 mm
Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.0 mm
Maximum disc run-out (fitted) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm
Maximum disc thickness variation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm
Rear hub face maximum run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm
9•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,suitable
for competent DIY
mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
9
procarmanuals.com

Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front caliper bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89
Rear caliper bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 44
Front caliper guide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 21
Rear caliper guide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30
Rear drum brake backplate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Vacuum servo unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30
Master cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
ABS hydraulic unit to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63
9•2 Braking system
1.2 Handbrake lever and associated components
1 Handbrake lever
2 Clock spring
3 Handbrake cable
4 Toothed segment and pawl to lock the
handbrake lever5 Fine-toothed segment for the clock spring
6 Pawl for the clock spring
7 Underbody bracket
The braking system is of diagonally-split,
dual-circuit design, with ventilated discs at
the front, and drum or disc brakes (according
to model) at the rear. The front calipers are of
floating single-piston design, using asbestos-
free pads. The rear drum brakes are of the
leading and trailing shoe type. They are self-
adjusting during footbrake operation. The rear
brake shoe linings are of different
thicknesses, in order to allow for the different
proportional rates of wear.
Pressure-control relief (PCR) valves are
fitted to the rear brakes, to prevent rear wheel
lock-up under hard braking. The valves are
sometimes referred to as pressure-conscious
reducing valves. On non-ABS models, theyare fitted in the master cylinder rear brake
outlet ports; on ABS models, they are located
on the ABS unit.
When rear disc brakes are fitted, the rear
brake caliper is located on the front of the
knuckle on Saloon and Hatchback models,
and on the rear of the knuckle on Estate
models (see illustration).
The handbrake is cable-operated, and acts
on the rear brakes. On rear drum brake
models, the cables operate on the rear trailing
brake shoe operating levers, and on rear disc
brake models, they operate on levers on the
rear calipers. The handbrake lever
incorporates an automatic adjuster, which
removes any slack from the cables when the
lever is disengaged (see illustration).
Handbrake lever movement remains
consistent at all times, and no adjustment is
necessary or possible.
Where fitted, the anti-lock braking system
(ABS) is of the four-channel low-pressure type
(see illustration). It uses the basic
conventional brake system, together with aBendix ABS hydraulic unit fitted between the
master cylinder and the four wheel brakes.
The hydraulic unit consists of a hydraulic
actuator, an ABS brake pressure pump, an
ABS module with built-in relay box, and two
pressure-control relief valves. Braking at each
of the four wheels is controlled by separate
solenoid valves in the hydraulic actuator. If
wheel lock-up is detected on a wheel when
the vehicle speed is above 3 mph, the valve
opens, releasing pressure to the relevant
brake, until the wheel regains a rotational
speed corresponding to the speed of the
vehicle. The cycle can be repeated many
times a second. In the event of a fault in the
ABS system, the conventional braking system
is not affected. Diagnosis of a fault in the ABS
system requires the use of special equipment,
and this work should therefore be left to a
Ford dealer. Diagnostic connectors are
located on the side of the left-hand front
suspension turret.
The traction control system (TCS) is fitted
as an option to some models, and uses the
1 General information
1.1 Rear disc brake location on
Saloon/Hatchback models (A) and Estate
models (B)
1 Handbrake cable lever facing away from
caliper
2 Handbrake cable lever facing towards
caliper
3 Brake hose banjo bolt
4 Front of vehicle
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Note:If any part of the ABS hydraulic unit is
defective, it must be renewed as an assembly.
Apart from the relay box (Section 22),
individual spare parts are not available.
Removal
1Remove both pressure-control relief valves
as described in Section 19.
2Identify the location of the remaining brake
hydraulic pipes on the ABS hydraulic unit,
then unscrew the union nuts and pull out the
pipes. Carefully bend the pipes away from the
hydraulic unit, to allow the unit to be removed.
3Disconnect the multi-plugs from the
hydraulic unit. To disconnect the main 22-pin
multi-plug, push the locktab, then swivel the
multi-plug outwards and unhook it.
Right-hand drive models
4Have an assistant hold the brake pedal
depressed, then extract the spring clip and
remove the clevis pin securing the servo unit
pushrod to the pedal cross-link arm.
5Remove the vacuum servo unit from the
engine compartment.
Left-hand drive models
6Unscrew the nut securing the pedal
trunnion to the servo unit pushrod inside the
passenger compartment. The nut is located
near the top of the pedal, and is accessible
through an access hole. For improved access,
remove the lower facia panel first.
7Remove the vacuum servo unit, together
with the pushrod, from the engine
compartment. Take care not to damage the
rubber grommet in the bulkhead.
All models
8Unscrew the pump mounting nut.
9Raise the left-hand side of the ABS
hydraulic unit, then swivel the unit out of the
right-hand mounting. Take care not to lose the
bracket studs and insulator ring.
Refitting
10Locate the insulator ring on the pump
end, and fit the stud cap to the insulator ring.
11Lower the ABS hydraulic unit into
position, right-hand end first.
12Fit the right-hand bracket studs onto the
insulators.
13Lower the left-hand end of the ABS
hydraulic unit onto the bracket, then fit and
tighten the pump mounting nut.
Left-hand drive models
14Locate the vacuum servo unit and
pushrod on the bulkhead bracket, taking care
not to damage the rubber grommet.
15Insert the pushrod in the pedal trunnion,
and tighten the nut.
16Refit the lower facia panel if it was
removed.
Right-hand drive models
17Locate the vacuum servo unit and
pushrod on the bulkhead bracket.
18Refit the clevis pin and spring clip
securing the servo unit pushrod to the pedal
cross-link arm.
All models
19Reconnect the multi-plugs to the
hydraulic unit.
20Reconnect the brake pipes to the
hydraulic unit, and tighten the union nuts.
21Refit both pressure-control relief valves,
with reference to Section 20.
Testing
1Checking of the sensors is done before
removal, connecting a voltmeter to the
disconnected sensor multi-plug. Using an
analogue (moving coil) meter is not practical,
since the meter does not respond quickly
enough. A digital meter having an AC facility
may be used to check that the sensor is
operating correctly. To do this, raise the
relevant wheel then disconnect the wiring to
the ABS sensor and connect the meter to it.
Spin the wheel and check that the output
voltage is between 1.5 and 2.0 volts,
depending on how fast the wheel is spun.
Alternatively, an oscilloscope may be used to
check the output of the sensor - an alternating
current will be traced on the screen, of
magnitude depending on the speed of the
rotating wheel.
2If the sensor output is low or zero, renew
the sensor.
Removal
Front wheel sensor
3Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the relevant wheel.
4Unscrew the sensor mounting bolt located
on the steering knuckle, and withdraw the
sensor (see illustrations).
5Remove the sensor wiring loom from thesupport brackets on the front suspension
strut and wheel arch.
6Prise out the stud clips, and remove the
Torx screws and screw clips holding the wheel
arch liner in position. Withdraw the liner.
7Disconnect the multi-plug, and withdraw
the sensor and wiring loom.
Rear wheel sensor
8Chock the front wheels, and engage 1st
gear (or “P”). Jack up the rear of the vehicle
and support it on axle stands. Remove the
relevant wheel.
9Unscrew the sensor mounting bolt, located
on the brake backplate (drum brakes) or rear
suspension knuckle (disc brakes), and
withdraw the sensor.
10On disc brake models, prise out the stud
clips, and remove the Torx screws and screw
clips holding the wheel arch liner in position.
Withdraw the liner.
11Disconnect the sensor wiring loom from
the supports on the rear suspension strut (or
knuckle) and wheel arch.
12Working inside the vehicle, lift the rear
seat cushion, then disconnect the multi-plug
for the sensor wiring loom (see illustration).
13Withdraw the sensor and wiring loom
through the rubber grommet in the rear floor.
Refitting
Front and rear wheel sensors
14Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Detach the vacuum hose from the inlet
manifold connection, pressing in the collar to
disengage the tabs, then withdrawing the
collar slowly.
3To improve access, free the heater hose
from its retaining clips, and position it clear of
the relay box.
4Disconect the wiring connector(s) from the
relay box and, where necessary, the speed
sender unit.
22 ABS relay box -
removal and refitting
21 ABS wheel sensor -
testing, removal and refitting
20 ABS hydraulic unit -
removal and refitting
9•14 Braking system
21.4 Unscrew the mounting bolt and
remove the ABS sensor21.12 Rear ABS sensor wiring multi-plug
located beneath the rear seat
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5Slacken and remove the four Torx retaining
screws, and withdraw the relay box from the
hydraulic unit (see illustration).
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Do not overtighten the relay box
retaining screws, as the plastic is easily
cracked
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Using a small screwdriver and a suitable
pad (to protect the facia), prise out the TCS
inhibitor switch from the facia.3Disconnect the multi-plug from the switch,
and withdraw the switch.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1The TCS throttle actuator is located in the
front right-hand corner of the engine
compartment. First disconnect the battery
negative (earth) lead (Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Disconnect the wiring multi-plug at the TCS
actuator (see illustration).
3Prise off the motor cover (see illustration).4Turn the upper throttle control segment, to
provide some play in the accelerator cable
leading to the throttle housing, then
disconnect the cable by unhooking the end
stop. Release the cable from the motor
housing support (see illustrations).
5Turn the lower accelerator control segment,
to provide play in the accelerator cable from
the accelerator pedal, then disconnect the
cable by unhooking the end stop. Release the
cable from the motor housing support (see
illustration).
6Unscrew the mounting bolts, and lift out the
TCS throttle actuator (see illustration).
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Adjust the accelerator cables as
described in Chapter 4.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Remove the lower facia panel, with
reference to Chapter 11.
3Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
switch.
4Rotate the switch anti-clockwise by a
quarter-turn, and withdraw it from the pedal
bracket (see illustration).
25 Stop-light switch -
removal and refitting
24 TCS throttle actuator -
removal and refitting
23 TCS inhibitor switch -
removal and refitting
Braking system 9•15
9
24.4B Releasing the cable from the motor
housing support24.4A Disconnecting the accelerator cable
(arrowed) from the upper throttle control
segment
24.5 Disconnecting the accelerator cable
(arrowed) from the lower throttle control
segment24.6 Removing the TCS actuator
22.5 Removing the ABS relay box24.2 Disconnecting the multi-plug
(arrowed) at the TCS actuator24.3 Removing the TCS motor cover
25.4 Removing the stop-light switch
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To minimise pollution of the atmosphere
from incompletely-burned and evaporating
gases, and to maintain good driveability and
fuel economy, a number of emission control
systems are used on these vehicles. They
include the following:
(a) The engine management system
(comprising both fuel and ignition sub-
systems) itself.
(b) Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)
system.
(c) Evaporative Emissions Control (EVAP)
system.
(d) Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system.
(e) Catalytic converter.
The Sections of this Chapter include
general descriptions, checking procedures
within the scope of the home mechanic, and
component renewal procedures (when
possible) for each of the systems listed above.
Before assuming an emissions control system
is malfunctioning, check the fuel and ignition
systems carefully (see Chapters 4 and 5). The
diagnosis of some emission control devices
requires specialised tools, equipment and
training. If checking and servicing become too
difficult, or if a procedure is beyond the scope ofyour skills, consult your dealer service
department or other specialist.
This doesn’t mean, however, that emission
control systems are particularly difficult to
maintain and repair. You can quickly and
easily perform many checks, and do most of
the regular maintenance, at home with
common tune-up and hand tools. Note:The
most frequent cause of emissions problems is
simply a loose or broken electrical connector
or vacuum hose, so always check the
electrical connectors and vacuum hoses first.
Pay close attention to any special
precautions outlined in this Chapter. It should
be noted that the illustrations of the various
systems may not exactly match the system
installed on your vehicle, due to changes
made by the manufacturer during production
or from year-to-year.
Vehicles sold in some areas will carry a
Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI)
label, and a vacuum hose diagram located in
the engine compartment. These contain
important specifications and setting
procedures for the various emissions control
systems, with the vacuum hose diagram
identifying emissions control components.
When servicing the engine or emissions
systems, the VECI label in your particular
vehicle should always be checked for up-to-
date information.Description
The EEC-IV (Ford’s fourth-generation
Electronic Engine Control system) engine
management system controls fuel injection by
means of a microcomputer known as the ECU
(Electronic Control Unit) (see illustrations).
The ECU receives signals from various
sensors, which monitor changing engine
operating conditions such as intake air mass
(ie, intake air volume and temperature),
coolant temperature, engine speed,
acceleration/deceleration, exhaust oxygen
content, etc. These signals are used by the
ECU to determine the correct injection
duration.
The system is analogous to the central
nervous system in the human body - the
sensors (nerve endings) constantly relay
signals to the ECU (brain), which processes
the data and, if necessary, sends out a
command to change the operating
parameters of the engine (body) by means of
the actuators (muscles).
Here’s a specific example of how one
portion of this system operates. An oxygen
sensor, located in the exhaust downpipe,
2 Electronic control system -
description and precautions1 General information
6•2 Emissions control systems
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