1991 FORD FESTIVA fuse

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GENERAL INFORMATION
T rouble Shooting - Basic Procedures
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
ACCESSORIES & ELECTRICAL
CHARGING SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
BASIC CHARGING SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT ,
DIAGNOST IC, or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT ,
DIAGNOST IC, or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT ,
DIAGNOST IC, or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
CONDITION & POSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
Vehicle Will Not Start
Dead batteryCheck battery cells, alternator
belt tension and alternator
output
Loose or corroded battery connectionsCheck all charging system
connections
Ignition circuit or switch malfunctionCheck and replace as necessary
Alternator Light Stays On With Engine Running
Loose or worn alternator drive beltCheck alternator drive tension
and condition, See Belt
Adjustment in TUNE-UP article
in the TUNE-UP section
Loose alternator wiring connectionsCheck all charging system
connections
Short in alternator light wiringSee Indicator Warning Lights in
STANDARD INSTRUMENTS
in the ACCESSORIES &
EQUIPMENT section
Defective alternator stator or diodesSee Bench Tests in
ALTERNATOR article
Defective regulatorSee Regulator Check in
ALTERNATOR article
Alternator Light Stays Off With Ignition Switch ON
Blown fuseSee WIRING DIAGRAMS
Defective alternatorSee Testing in ALTERNATOR
article
Defective indicator light bulb or socketSee Indicator Warning Lights in
STANDARD INSTRUMENTS
in the ACCESSORIES &
EQUIPMENT section
Alternator Light Stays OFF With Ignition Switch ON
Short in alternator wiringSee On-Vehicle Tests in
ALTERNATOR article
Defective rectifier bridgeSee Bench Tests in
ALTERNATOR article
Lights or Fuses Burn Out Frequently
Defective alternator wiringSee On-Vehicle Tests in
ALTERNATOR article
Defective regulatorSee Regulator Check in
ALTERNATOR article
Defective batteryCheck and replace as necessary
Ammeter Gauge Shows Discharge
Loose or worn drive beltCheck alternator drive belt
tension and condition. See Belt
Adjustment in TUNE-UP article
in the TUNE-UP section
Defective wiringCheck all wires and wire
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AIR CONDITIONING & HEAT
AIR CONDITIONING TROUBLE SHOOTING
BASIC AIR CONDITIONING TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
HEATER SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
BASIC HEATER SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
Broken lead or loose soldered connectionsRepair wire or wire
connections as necessary
Solenoid Plunger Vibrates When Switch is Engaged
Weak batteryCharge or replace battery as
necessary
Solenoid contacts corrodedClean contacts or replace
solenoid
Faulty wiringCheck all wiring leading to
solenoid
Broken connections inside switch coverRepair connections or replace
solenoid
Open hold-in wiresolenoid
Low Current Draw
Worn brushes or weak brush springsReplace brushes or brush
springs as necessary
High Pitched Whine During Cranking Before Engine Fires but Engine Fires and Cranks Normally
Distance too great between starter pinion and flywheelAlign starter or check that
correct starter and flywheel are
being used
High Pitched Whine After Engine Fires With Key released. Engine Fires and Cranks Normally
Distance too small between starter pinion and flywheelFlywheel runout contributes to
the intermittent nature
WARNING:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT ,
DIAGNOST IC, or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
CONDITIONPOSSIBLE CAUSE
Compressor Not WorkingCompressor clutch circuit open.
.....Compressor clutch coil inoperative.
.....Poor clutch ground connection.
.....Fan belts loose.
.....Thermostatic switch inoperative.
.....Thermostatic switch not adjusted.
.....Ambient temperature switch open.
.....Superheat fuse blown.
Excessive Noise or VibrationMissing or loose mounting bolts.
.....Bad idler pulley bearings.
.....Fan belts not tightened correctly.
.....Compressor clutch contacting body.
.....Excessive system pressure.
.....Compressor oil level low.
.....Damaged clutch bearings.
.....Damaged reed valves.
.....Damaged compressor.
In su fficien t o r No Co o l in g; Co mp resso r
WorkingExpansion valve inoperative.
.....Heater control valve stuck open.
.....Low system pressure.
.....Blocked condenser fins.
.....Blocked evaporator fins.
.....Vacuum system leak.
.....Vacuum motors inoperative.
.....Control cables improperly adjusted.
.....Restricted air inlet.
.....Mode doors binding.
.....Blower motor inoperative.
.....Temperature above system capacity.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to DIAGNOST IC,
or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
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BRAKES
BRAKE SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
BRAKE SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
CONDITIONPOSSIBLE CAUSE
Insufficient, Erratic, or No HeatLow Coolant Level
.....Incorrect thermostat.
.....Restricted coolant flow through core.
.....Heater hoses plugged.
.....Misadjusted control cable.
.....Sticking heater control valve.
.....Vacuum hose leaking.
.....Vacuum hose blocked.
.....Vacuum motors inoperative.
.....Blocked air inlet.
.....Inoperative heater blower motor.
.....Oil residue on heater core fins.
.....Dirt on heater core fins.
Too Much HeatImproperly adjusted cables.
.....Sticking heater control valve.
.....No vacuum to heater control valve.
.....Temperature door stuck open.
Air Flow Changes During AccelerationVacuum system leak.
.....Bad check valve or reservoir.
Air From Defroster At All TimesVacuum system leak.
.....Improperly adjusted control cables.
.....Inoperative vacuum motor.
Blower Does Not Operate CorrectlyBlown fuse.
.....Blower motor windings open.
.....Resistors burned out.
.....Motor ground connection loose.
.....Wiring harness connections loose.
.....Blower motor switch inoperative.
.....Blower relay inoperative.
.....Fan binding or foreign object in housing.
.....Fan blades broken or bent.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT ,
DIAGNOST IC, or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
CONDITION & POSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
Brakes Pull Left or Right
Incorrect tire pressureInflate tires to proper pressure
Front end out of alignmentSee WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Mismatched tiresCheck tires sizes
Restricted brake lines or hosesCheck hose routing
Loose or malfunctioning caliperSee DISC BRAKES or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Bent shoe or oily liningsSee DRUM BRAKES or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Malfunctioning rear brakesSee DRUM, DISC BRAKES
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Loose suspension partsSee SUSPENSION
Noises Without Brakes Applied
Front linings worn outReplace linings
Dust or oil on drums or rotorsSee DRUM, DISC BRAKES
or BRAKE SYSTEM
Noises With Brakes Applied
Insulator on outboard shoe damagedSee DISC BRAKES or
BRAKE SYSTEM
Incorrect pads or liningsReplace pads or linings
Brake Rough, Chatters or Pulsates
Excessive lateral runoutCheck rotor runout
Parallelism not to specificationsReface or replace rotor
Wheel bearings not adjustedSee SUSPENSION
Rear drums out-of-roundReface or replace drums
Disc pad reversed, steel against rotorRemove and reinstall pad
Excessive Pedal Effort
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TUNE-UP TROUBLE SHOOTING - GAS ENGINE VEHICLES
BASIC SPARK PLUG TROUBLE SHOOTING CHARTS
Faulty solenoid switch, switch connections or relayCheck all wiring between
relay and solenoid or replace
relay or solenoid as necessary
Broken lead or loose soldered connectionsRepair wire or wire
connections as necessary
Solenoid Plunger Vibrates When Switch is Engaged
Weak batteryCharge or replace battery as
necessary
Solenoid contacts corrodedClean contacts or replace
solenoid
Faulty wiringCheck all wiring leading to
solenoid
Broken connections inside switch coverRepair connections or replace
solenoid
Open hold-in wireReplace solenoid
Low Current Draw
Worn brushes or weakReplace brushes or brush
springs as necessary
High Pitched Whine During Cranking Before Engine Fires but Engine Fires and Cranks Normally
Distance too great between starter pinion and flywheelAlign starter or check that
correct starter and flywheel
are being used
High Pitched Whine After Engine Fires With Key released. Engine Fires and Cranks Normally
Distance too small between starter pinion and flywheelFlywheel runout contributes
to the intermittent nature
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT ,
DIAGNOST IC, or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
CONDITION & POSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
Normal Spark Plug Condition
Light Tan or Gray depositsNo Action
Electrode not burned or fouledNo Action
Gap tolerance not changedNo Action
Cold Fouling or Carbon Deposits
Overrich air/fuel mixtureAdjust air/fuel mixture, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
section
Faulty chokeReplace choke assembly, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
section
Clogged air filterClean and/or replace air filter
Incorrect idle speed or dirty carburetorReset idle speed and/ or clean
carburetor
Faulty ignition wiresReplace ignition wiring
Prolonged operation at idleShut engine off during long
idle
Sticking valves or worn valve guide sealsCheck valve train
Wet Fouling or Oil Deposits
Worn rings and pistonsInstall new rings and pistons
Excessive cylinder wearRebore or replace block
Excessive valve guide clearanceWorn or loose bearing
Gap Bridged
Deposits in combustion chamber becoming fused to electrodeClean combustion chamber of
deposits
Blistered Electrode
Engine overheatingCheck cooling system
Wrong type of fuelReplace with correct fuel
Loose spark plugsRetighten spark plugs
Over-advanced ignition timingReset ignition timing see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Pre-Ignition or Melted Electrodes
Incorrect type of fuelReplace with correct fuel
Incorrect ignition timingReset ignition timing see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Burned valvesReplace valves
Engine OverheatingCheck cooling system
Wrong type of spark plug, too hotReplace with correct spark
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GENERAL INFORMATION
T ROUBLE SHOOT ING
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
TUNE-UP TROUBLE SHOOTING NOTE:T his article is generic in nature and all inform ation does not apply to all vehicles. For vehicle specific
inform ation, see the appropriate articles in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE category.
NOTE:T his article is generic in nature and all inform ation does not apply to all vehicles. For vehicle specific
inform ation, see the appropriate articles in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE category.
Problem & Possible CauseAction
Carbon Fouled Plugs
C l o gge d Air Fil t e rReplace Air Filter
Incorrect Idle SpeedReset Idle Speed
Faulty Ignition WiringReplace Ignition Wiring
Sticky Valves/Worn Valve SealCheck Valve Train
Fuel Injection OperationCheck Fuel Injection
Wet/Oil Fouled Plugs
Worn Rings/PistonsOverhaul/Replace Engine
Excessive Cylinder WearOverhaul/Replace Engine
Plug Gap Bridged
Combustion Chamber Carbon DepositsClean Combustion
Chamber
Blistered Electrode
Engine OverheatingCheck Cooling System
Loose Spark PlugsClean/Torque Plugs
Over-Advanced TimingReset Timing
Wrong Plug Heat RangeInstall Correct Plug
Melted Electrodes
Incorrect TimingReset Timing
Burned ValvesReplace Valves
Engine OverheatingCheck Cooling System
Wrong Plug Heat RangeInstall Correct Plug
Engine Won't Start
Loose ConnectionsCheck Connections
No PowerCheck Fuses/Battery
Loose/Worn Timing Belt/Chain/GearsCheck Belt/Chain/Gears
Engine Runs Rough
Leaky/Clogged Fuel InjectorsRepair Fuel Injectors
Leaky/Clogged Fuel LinesRepair Fuel Lines
Clogged Fuel FilterReplace Fuel Filter
Incorrect TimingReset Timing/Check
Advance
Faulty Plugs/WiresReplace Plugs/Wires
Uneven CompressionOverhaul/Replace Engine
Poor Acceleration
Incorrect Ignition TimingReset Timing
Leaky ValvesCheck Compression
Component Failure
Spark ArcingReplace Faulty Part
Defective Pick-Up CoilReplace Pick-Up Coil
Defective Ignition CoilReplace Ignition Coil
Defective Control UnitReplace Control Unit
Ignition Diagnosis By Scope Pattern
All Firing Lines Abnormally High
Retarded Ignition TimingReset Ignition Timing
Lean Air/Fuel MixtureAdjust Fuel Mixture
High Secondary ResistanceRepair Secondary
Ign it io n
All Firing Lines Abnormally Low
Rich Air/Fuel MixtureAdjust Air/Fuel Mixture
Arcing Coil WireReplace Coil Wire
Cracked CoilReplace Coil
Low Coil OutputReplace Coil
Low CompressionCheck/Repair Engine
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FUEL INJECTION TROUBLE SHOOTING
Se ve r a l High F ir in g Lin e s
Fuel Mixture UnbalancedCheck Fuel System
EGR Valve Stuck OpenClean/Replace EGR
Valve
High Plug Wire ResistanceReplace Plug Wire
Cracked/Broken PlugsReplace Plugs
Intake Vacuum LeakRepair Leak
Several Low Firing Lines
Fuel Mixture UnbalancedAdjust Fuel Mixture
Plug Wires ArcingReplace Plug Wires
Cracked Coil ArcingReplace Coil
Uneven CompressionCheck/Repair Engine
Faulty Spark PlugsReplace Plugs
Cylinders Not Firing
Cracked Distributor CapReplace Cap
Shorted Plug WiresReplace Plug Wires
Mechanical Engine FaultCheck/Repair Engine
Spark Plugs FouledReplace Plugs
Carbon Track in Distributor CapReplace Cap
Hard Starting
Defective Ignition Coil(s)Replace Coil(s)
Fouled Spark PlugsReplace Plugs
Incorrect TimingReset Ignition Timing
NOTE:T his article is generic in nature and all inform ation does not apply to all vehicles. For vehicle specific
inform ation, see the appropriate articles in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE category.
Problem & Possible CauseAction
Cold Start Valve InoperativeTest Cold Start Valve
Poor Vacuum/Electrical ConnectionRepair Connections
Contaminated FuelTest Fuel for Water/Alcohol
Bad Fuel Pump Relay/CircuitTest Relay/Wiring
Battery Voltage LowCharge/Test Battery
Low Fuel PressureTest Press. Regulator/Pump
No Distributor Reference PulseRepair Ignition System
Coolant Temp. Sensor DefectiveTest Temp. Sensor/Circuit
No Power To InjectorsCheck Injector Fuse/Relay
Hard Starting
Defective Idle Air Control (IAC)Test IAC and Circuit
EGR Valve OpenTest EGR Valve/Control
Circuit
Restricted Fuel LinesInspect/Replace Fuel Lines
Poor MAP Sensor SignalTest MAP Sensor/Circuit
Engine Stalls During Parking ManeuverCheck P.S. Press. Switch
Rough Idle
Dirty Fuel InjectorsClean/Replace Injectors
Poor MAP Sensor SignalTest MAP Sensor/Circuit
Intermittent Fuel Injector OperationCheck Harness Connectors
Erratic Vehicle Speed Sensor InputsHarness Too Close to Plug
Wires
Poor O2 Sensor SignalTest O2 Sensor/Circuit
Faulty PCV SystemCheck PCV Valve and
Hoses
Poor Acceleration
Weak Fuel PumpReplace Fuel Pump
Dirty Fuel InjectorsClean/Replace Injectors
Excessive Intake Valve DepositsClean Intake System
Poor High Speed Operation
Low Fuel Pump VolumeFaulty Fuel Pump/Filter
Poor MAP Sensor SignalTest Speed Sensor/Circuit
Acceleration Ping/Knock
Faulty EGR SystemCheck EGR Valve and
Hoses
Poor Knock Sensor SignalTest Knock Sensor/Circuit
Poor Baro Sensor SignalTest Baro Sensor/Circuit
Improper Ignition TimingAdjust Timing
Engine OverheatingCheck Cooling System
Poor Quality FuelUse Different Fuel
Carbon Build-UpDecarbon Engine
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Parasitic Load Explanation & T est Procedures
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
GENERAL INFORMATION
The term Parasitic Load refers to electrical devices that continue to use or draw current after the ignition switch is turned to OFF position. This
small amount of continuous battery draw is expressed in milliamps (mA). On Chrysler vehicles, a typical Parasitic Load should be no more
than 30 milliamps (0.030 amps). On Ford Motor Co. and General Motors vehicles produced after 1980, a typical Parasitic Load should be no
more than 50 milliamps (0.050 amps).
Vehicles produced since 1980 have memory devices that draw current with ignition off for as long as 20 minutes before shutting down the
Parasitic Drain. When Parasitic Load exceeds normal specifications, the vehicle may exhibit dead battery and no-start condition.
Follow test procedure for checking Parasitic Loads to completion. A brief overview of a suggested test procedure is included along with some
typical Parasitic Load specifications. Refer to GENERAL MOTORS PARASITIC LOAD TABLE chart.
TESTING FOR PARASITIC LOAD
The battery circuit must be opened to connect test switch (shunt) and ammeter into the circuit. When a battery cable is removed, timer circuits
within the vehicle computer are interrupted and immediately begin to discharge. If in doubt about the condition of the ammeter fuse, test it
with an ohmmeter prior to beginning test. An open fuse will show the same reading (00.00) as no parasitic drain. Begin test sequence with the
meter installed and on the 10-amp scale. Select lower scale to read parasitic draw.
CHRYSLER IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD) TEST
To test for excessive IOD, verify that all electrical accessories are OFF. Turn off all lights, remove ignition key, and close all doors and decklid.
If the vehicle is equipped with electronic accessories (illuminated entry, automatic load leveler, body computer, or high line radio), allow the
system to automatically shut off (time out), up to 3 minutes.
1. Raise the hood and disconnect both battery cables, negative first.
2. Reconnect the negative cable and connect a typical 12-volt test light (low wattage bulb) between the positive cable clamp and the
positive battery post. Remove the engine compartment lamp bulb. If the test light does not light, proceed to step 3
. If the test light does
light, proceed to step, 4
. The test light will indicate IOD greater than 3 amps. After higher amperage IOD has been corrected, proceed to
step 3
.
3. ith 12-volt test light still connected (not lit), connect an ammeter (milliampere scale) between the positive cable clamp and the positive
battery post, disconnect test light, refer to instructions provided with ammeter being used. A reading of 30 milliamperes or less indicates
normal electrical draw. If ammeter reads more than 30 milliamperes, excessive IOD must be corrected.
4. Locate the fuse panel and remove fuses or circuit breakers one at a time, and observe ammeter after each fuse or circuit breaker is
removed. If test light goes out and the reading drops below 30 milliamperes when a certain fuse or circuit breaker is removed, that circuit
may have a defect.
5. If IOD is detected after all fuses and circuit breakers have been removed, disconnect the 60-way connector at the Single Module Engine
Control (SMEC), located outboard of the battery.
6. If excessive IOD is detected after all fused circuits and SMEC have been verified, disconnect the B+ terminal from the alternat o r. If
reading drops below 30 milliamperes, reinstall all fuses and circuit breakers, reconnect B+ terminal at alternator, reconnect battery, and
perform alternator diagnostics.
7. Install engine compartment lamp bulb.
TEST PROCEDURE USING TEST SWITCH
1. Turn ignition off. Remove negative battery terminal cable. Install Disconnect Tool (J-38758) test switch male end to negative battery
cable. Turn test switch knob to OFF position (current through meter). Install negative battery cable to the female end of test switch. NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
CAUT ION: Always turn ignition off when connecting or disconnecting battery cables, battery chargers or jum per
cables. DO NOT turn test switch to OFF position (which causes current to run through am m eter or
vehicle electrical system ).
NOTE:Mem ory functions of various accessories m ust be reset after the battery is reconnected.
CAUT ION: IOD greater than 3 am ps m ay dam age m illam pm eter.
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2. Turn test switch knob to ON position (current through switch). Road test vehicle with vehicle accessories on (radio, air conditioner, etc).
After road test, turn ignition switch to LOCKED position and remove key. Connect ammeter terminals to test switch terminals. See Fig.
1. Select 10-amp scale.
3. Turn off all electrical accessories. Turn off interior lights, underhood lamp, trunk light, illuminated entry, etc. To avoid damaging
ammeter or obtaining a false meter reading, all accessories must be off before turning test switch knob to OFF position.
4. Turn test switch knob to OFF position to allow current to flow through ammeter. If meter reads wrong polarity, turn test switch to ON
position and reverse leads. Turn test switch to OFF position. Observe current reading. If reading is less than 2 amps, turn test switch to
ON position to keep electrical circuits powered-up.
5. Select low amp scale. Switch lead to the correct meter position. Turn test switch to OFF position and compare results to normal current
draw. See GENERAL MOTORS PARASITIC LOAD TABLE (MILLIAMPS)
. If current draw is unusually high for the vehicle's
overall electrical system, remove system fuses one at a time until current draw returns to normal.
6. Turn test switch to ON position each time door is opened or fuse is removed. Turn switch to OFF position to read current draw va l u e
through meter. When the cause of excessive current drain has been located and repaired, remove test switch and reconnect negative
battery cable to the negative battery terminal.
INTERMITTENT PARASITIC LOAD PROBLEMS
Intermittent parasitic load can occur because of a memory device that does not power down with ignition off. With an intermittent parasitic
load, battery draw can be greater than 1.0 amp.
To find an intermittent problem requires that an ammeter and Disconnect Tool (J-38758) test switch be connected and left in the circuit. See
Fig. 1
. Road test vehicle. After road test, turn ignition off and remove key.
Monitor the milliamps scale for 15-20 minutes after ignition is turned off. This allows monitoring memory devices to determine if they time out
and stop drawing memory current. The test switch is needed to protect ammeter when the vehicle is started.

Fig. 1: Connecting Kent
-Moore Disconnect Tool (J-38758)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
GENERAL MOTORS PARASITIC LOAD
ComponentNormal DrawMaximum DrawTime-Out (Minutes)
Anti-Theft System0.41.0.....
Auto Door Lock1.01.0.....
Body Control Module3.612.420
Central Processing System1.62.720
Electronic Control Module5.610.0.....
Electronic Level Control2.03.320
Heated Windshield Module0.30.4.....
HVAC Power Module1.01.0.....
Illuminated Entry1.01.01
Light Control Module0.51.0.....
Oil Level Module0.10.1.....
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