1989 FORD FIESTA engine

that one of the air bag module retaining bolts
becomes accessible from the rear of the
steering wheel. Undo the bolt, then turn
the steering wheel again until the second bolt
is accessible. Undo this bolt also.
5Withdraw the air bag module from the
steering wheel far enough to access the
wiring multi-plug. Some force may be needed
to free the module from the additional steering
wheel spoke retainers.
6 Disconnect the multi-plug from the rear of
the module, and remove the module from the
vehicle. Warning: Position the air bag
module in a safe place, with the
mechanism facing downwards
as a precaution against
accidental operation.
7 Turn the steering wheel so that the
roadwheels are in the straight-ahead position,
then remove the ignition key to lock the
steering.
8 Release the wiring harness from the side of
the steering column and disconnect the air
bag module wiring multi-plug (yellow lead).
9 Disconnect the wiring multi-plugs from the
steering column multi-function switch
assembly.
10 Disconnect the ignition switch wiring
multi-plug connector and remove the loom
plate from its location on the left-hand side of
the steering column.
11 Undo the single screw and withdraw the
Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) transceiver
from the ignition switch/steering lock barrel
(see illustration 19.12) .
12 Unclip the bonnet release cable abutment
from its location in the steering column lock
housing, then detach the cable from the
bonnet release lever by aligning the cable
core with the slot on the release lever and
withdrawing it through that slot. Detach the
spring from the release lever arms, then
disengage the arms from the steering column
lock housing and remove the bonnet release
lever.
13 Remove the C-clip at the base of the
steering column shaft, below the universal
joint.
14 Remove the nuts securing the steering
column mounting bracket.
15 Pull the steering column assembly from its
bulkhead location and withdraw it from the
vehicle, ensuring that the steering column
shaft and flexible coupling separate fully.
Refitting
16 Ensure that the roadwheels are in the
straight-ahead position and the steering
column is locked. With the help of an
assistant, insert the steering column assembly
into the vehicle so that the steering column
shaft engages with the flexible coupling.
17 Refit the steering column shaft C-clip.
18 With the column assembly located loosely
in position, refit and tighten the nuts securing
it to its mounting bracket.
19 Refit the steering column ancillary components, reversing the removal procedure
given in paragraphs 2 to 12.
20
Reconnect the battery negative lead.
22 Steering gear rubber gaiters
- renewal
3
1Remove the track rod end balljoint as
described in Section 28.
2 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning its bayonet-type fasteners,
and on XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Section 7.
3 Count the number of exposed threads
visible, from the end of the track rod to the
track rod end balljoint locknut, and record this
figure. Now unscrew the locknut from the
track rod.
4 Release the clip(s), and slide the gaiter off
the rack-and-pinion housing and track rod.
5 Scrape off all grease from the old gaiter,
and apply to the track rod inner joint. Wipe
clean the seating areas on the rack-and-
pinion housing and track rod.
6 Slide the new gaiter onto the housing and
track rod, and secure with the retaining clips.
Ensure that the narrow neck locates correctly
in the track rod groove.
7 Screw the track rod end balljoint locknut
back onto the track rod until the same number
of threads, as counted on removal, are visible.
8 Refit the track rod end balljoint as
described in Section 28.
9 Refit the front suspension crossmember
and one-piece undertray, as applicable.
23 Steering gear (manual steering) -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
3 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning its bayonet-type fasteners,
and on XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Section 7.
4 Remove the pinch-bolt securing the pinion
splined shaft to the lower steering shaft
universal joints, located at the rear of the
engine compartment.
5 Separate the track rod end balljoints from
the steering arms, as described in Section 28.
6 Remove the lower brake servo support
bracket bolt.
7 Remove the other bolt securing the steering
rack assembly to the bulkhead, then withdraw
it from the right-hand side of the vehicle, taking care to disengage the pinion splined
shaft from the lower steering shaft universal
joint as the assembly is moved.
Refitting
8
Centralize the rack and steering wheel, then
engage the pinion splined shaft to the lower
steering shaft universal joint.
9 Refit the steering rack assembly mounting
bolts to the bulkhead and tighten to the
specified torque, ensuring that the servo
support bracket is correctly held.
10 Refit the pinion splined shaft-to-lower
steering shaft universal joint pinch-bolt and
nut and tighten to the specified torque,
ensuring that the pinch-bolt locates to the
annular groove as the pinion splined shaft.
11 Refit the track rod end balljoints to the
steering arms, as detailed in Section 28. As
long as the track rod end-to-track rod relative
positions have not been disturbed, it will not
be necessary to reset the front wheel
alignment.
12 Refit the front suspension crossmember
and one-piece undertray, as applicable.
13 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the
vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel
nuts to the specified torque with the vehicle
on its wheels.
24 Steering gear (power steering) -
removal and refitting
4
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
3 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning its bayonet-type fasteners,
and on XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Section 7.
4 Remove the pinch-bolt securing the pinion
splined shaft to the lower steering shaft
flexible coupling, located at the rear of the
engine compartment.
5 Undo the retaining screws, and detach the
clips securing the power steering hydraulic
pressure pipes to the steering gear.
6 Position a suitable container under the
hydraulic pipe connections to the steering
gear. Unscrew the pipe unions, then detach
the pipes from the valve body. Withdraw the
pipes from the steering gear, and drain the
hydraulic fluid into the container.
7 Plug the exposed ends of the hydraulic line
connections, to prevent the ingress of dirt and
further fluid loss. Note that new O-ring seals
will be needed for the pressure and return
hose connections when reconnecting.
8 Slacken the upper bolts securing the
steering gear support brackets. On left-hand
Suspension and steering 10•15
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drive models, remove the brace from the stud
on the left-hand side of the steering gear.
9Undo the two bolts securing the support
brackets to the steering gear and move the
brackets and swing the brackets clear.
10 Unhook the steering gear from the
apertures in the bulkhead and remove the
assembly from the right-hand wheel arch.
Ensure that the pressure check valve does not
fall out of the pressure port in the valve body
as the steering gear is removed.
Refitting
11 Centralize the steering gear and steering
wheel, then engage the pinion splined shaft to
the lower steering shaft flexible coupling.
12 Hook the steering gear into the apertures
in the bulkhead then align the support
brackets and refit the two bolts. Tighten the
support bracket upper bolts and support
bracket-to-steering gear bolts to the specified
torque.
13 On left-hand drive models, refit the brace
to the stud on the left-hand side of the
steering gear.
14 Fit new O-ring seals to the pressure and
return hoses, then reconnect the hydraulic
lines to the steering gear. Secure the pipes
with the retaining clips.
15 Refit the pinion splined shaft-to-lower
steering shaft flexible coupling pinch-bolt and
nut and tighten to the specified torque.
16 Refit the track rod end balljoints to the
steering arms, as detailed in Section 28. As
long as the track rod end-to-track rod relative
positions have not been disturbed, it will not
be necessary to reset the front wheel
alignment.
17 Refit the front suspension crossmember
and one-piece undertray, as applicable.
18 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the
vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel
nuts with the vehicle on its wheels to the
specified torque.
19 On completion, bleed the power steering
hydraulic system as described in Section 27.
Check for any signs of fluid leakage from the
system hoses and connections.
25 Power steering pump -
removal and refitting
4
Removal
HCS engine models
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheel.
3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
4 Insert a 9 mm Allen key into the centre of
the pump drive spindle to prevent it from turning, then unscrew and remove the three
pump pulley retaining bolts. Withdraw the
pulley from the pump.
5
Position a suitable container beneath the
power steering pump, then unscrew and detach
the fluid high pressure pipe and fluid return
hose from the pump. As they are detached from
the pump, allow the fluid to drain from the pipe
and hose (and the pump) into the container.
Plug the exposed ends of the pipe, hose and
the pump connections, to prevent the ingress of
dirt and excessive fluid loss.
6 Unscrew the four retaining bolts (three from
the front and one from the rear) and withdraw
the pump from the vehicle.
PTE engine models
7 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
8 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and
remove the air cleaner assembly and air inlet
components as necessary for access to the
pump.
9 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheel.
10 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling
system.
11 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the
auxiliary drivebelt.
12 Insert a 9 mm Allen key into the centre of
the pump drive spindle to prevent it from
turning, then unscrew and remove the three
pump pulley retaining bolts. Refit the
roadwheel, lower the vehicle and withdraw the
pump pulley from above.
13 Disconnect the cooling system hoses as
necessary to gain access to the power
steering pump.
14 Disconnect the pressure switch multi-plug
from the pressure switch located in the fluid
high pressure pipe.
15 Position a suitable container beneath the
power steering pump, then disconnect the
high pressure pipe at the union located part
way along the pipe. Allow the fluid to drain
from the pipe into the container.
16 Disconnect the high pressure pipe clamp
bracket and the fluid return hose from the
pump. Allow the fluid to drain into the
container then plug the exposed ends of the
pipe, hose and the pump connections, to
prevent the ingress of dirt and excessive fluid
loss.
17 Unscrew the pump mounting bolt located
at the rear of the pump and remove the pipe
clamp bracket.
18 Unscrew the three pump mounting bolts
located at the front of the pump and remove
the pump, complete with high pressure pipe,
from the vehicle.
19 If required, the high pressure pipe can be
removed from the pump after unscrewing the
union nut.
Zetec engine models
Note: For this operation, the engine will need
to be supported from above to allow removal of the right-hand engine mounting, and also to
allow the vehicle to be raised for work
underneath, and lowered for work from above.
A proprietary engine support bar (or home-
made alternative) fitted in the front wing drain
channel each side is ideal for this purpose, but
care must be taken not to damage the wings
or their paintwork.
20
Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
21 Suitably support the right-hand side of the
engine (see the note at the beginning of this
sub-Section) so that all the load is removed
from the engine mounting.
22 Remove the right-hand engine mounting
as described in Chapter 2C.
23 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling
system.
24 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheel.
25 Undo the retaining screws, and remove
the drivebelt lower guard from the underbody.
26 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the wheel
arch liner.
27 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the
auxiliary drivebelt.
28 Insert a 9 mm Allen key into the centre of
the pump drive spindle to prevent it from
turning, then unscrew and remove the three
pump pulley retaining bolts. Refit the
roadwheel, lower the vehicle and withdraw the
pump pulley from above.
29 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove the right-
hand headlight unit.
30 Refit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
31 Position a suitable container beneath the
power steering fluid reservoir, then disconnect
the fluid return hose from the reservoir. Allow
the fluid to drain from the hose and reservoir
into the container.
32 Plug the exposed ends of the hose and
the reservoir, to prevent the ingress of dirt and
excessive fluid loss.
33 Remove the high pressure pipe clamp
brackets from the engine then disconnect the
high pressure pipe at the union located over
the camshaft cover. Place absorbent rags
under the union as it is disconnected to
collect any escaping fluid. Plug the
disconnected pipe ends to prevent the
ingress of dirt and excessive fluid loss.
34 Disconnect the cooling system hoses as
necessary to gain access to the power
steering pump.
35 Unscrew the two pump mounting bolts
located at the rear of the pump.
36 Unscrew the two pump mounting bolts
located at the front of the pump and remove
the pump, complete with high pressure pipe
and fluid return hose, upwards and out of the
engine compartment.
37 If required, the high pressure pipe and
fluid return hose can be removed from the
pump after unscrewing the union nut or
slackening the hose clip as applicable.
10•16 Suspension and steering
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Refitting
All models
38Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque. Remove the plugs from the
disconnected pipes, hoses and unions
and ensure that the pipes are located
correctly so that they do not foul any
surrounding components.
b) Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1.
c) Where drained, refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.
d) Refit or reconnect any additional
components removed for access as
described in the relevant Sections and
Chapters of this manual.
e) On completion, bleed the power steering
hydraulic system as described in Section
27. Check for any signs of fluid leakage
from the system hoses and connections.
26 Power steering fluid cooler -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Position a suitable container beneath the
power steering fluid cooler hose connections,
then disconnect the hoses at the quick-fit
couplings on the fluid cooler. Allow the fluid to
drain from the hose and reservoir into the
container.
3 Plug the exposed ends of the hose and the
reservoir, to prevent the ingress of dirt and
excessive fluid loss.
4 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the bonnet
lock assembly and the front bumper.
5 Undo the bolts securing the cooler side
support bracket and the bonnet lock stay, and
remove the fluid cooler and bonnet lock stay
as an assembly.
6 Undo the two bolts and remove the stay
from the fluid cooler.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. On
completion, bleed the power steering
hydraulic system as described in Section 27.
27 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding
2
1Following any operation in which the power
steering fluid lines have been disconnected,
the power steering system must be bled to
remove any trapped air.
2 With the front wheel in the straight-ahead
position, check the power steering fluid level
in the reservoir and, if low, top-up with fresh fluid to the “MAX” or “MAX COLD” level mark.
Pour the fluid slowly to prevent air bubbles
forming, and use only the specified fluid (refer
to
“Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures” ).
3 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Check
the hoses and connections for leaks.
4 Stop the engine and recheck the fluid level.
Add more, if necessary, up to the “MAX” or
“MAX COLD” level mark.
5 Start the engine again, allow it to idle, then
bleed the system by slowly moving the
steering from lock-to-lock several times. This
should purge the system of all internal air.
However, if air remains in the system
(indicated by the steering operation being very
noisy), leave the vehicle overnight and repeat
the procedure again the next day.
6 If air still remains in the system, it may be
necessary to resort to the Ford method of
bleeding, which uses a vacuum pump and a
modified reservoir filler cap to which the pump
can be connected. Turn the steering to the
right until it is near the stop, then fit the
vacuum pump to the fluid reservoir, and apply
0.51 bars of vacuum. Maintain the vacuum for
a minimum of 5 minutes, then repeat
the procedure with the steering turned to the
left.
7 Keep the fluid level topped-up throughout
the bleeding procedure; note that the fluid
temperature increases, the level will rise.
8 On completion, switch the engine off, and
return the wheels to the straight-ahead
position.
28 Track rod end balljoint -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Using a suitable spanner, slacken the track
rod end balljoint locknut on the track rod by a
quarter of a turn only (see illustration). Holdthe balljoint stationary with another spanner
engaged with the flats at its inner end to
prevent it from turning.
3
Extract the split pin, then loosen off the
retaining nut. If the balljoint is to be renewed,
the nut can be fully removed. If the existing
balljoint is to be reconnected, the nut should
be slackened off a couple of turns only at first,
and left in position to protect the joint threads
as the joint is separated from the spindle
carrier. To release the tapered shank of the
joint from the spindle carrier, use a balljoint
separator tool as shown (see illustration). If
the joint is to be re-used, take care not to
damage the rubber dust cover when using a
separator tool.
4 Unscrew the balljoint from the track rod,
counting the number of turns necessary to
remove it.
Refitting
5 Screw the balljoint into the track rod the
number of turns noted during removal until the
balljoint just contacts the locknut. Now tighten
the locknut while holding the balljoint.
6 Engage the shank of the balljoint with the
spindle carrier arm, and refit the retaining nut.
Tighten the nut to the specified torque and
secure with a new split pin.
7 Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
8 Finally, have the front wheel toe setting
checked (see Section 29).
29 Wheel alignment and steering angles - general
information
4
General
1 A car’s steering and suspension geometry
is defined in four basic settings - all angles
are expressed in degrees (toe settings are
also expressed as a measurement); the
relevant settings are camber, castor, steering
axis inclination, and toe-setting. With the
exception of front wheel toe-setting, none of
these settings are adjustable.
Suspension and steering 10•17
28.3 Balljoint separator tool in position.
Note that the nut should be left loosely in position to protect the thread for re-use28.2 Track rod end balljoint showing the locknut (A) retaining flats (B) and the
balljoint-to-spindle carrier arm retaining
nut and split pin (C)
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1 General information
The bodyshell and underframe on all
models is of all-steel welded construction,
incorporating progressive crumple zones at
the front and rear, and a rigid centre safety
cell. The body styles available include three-
door, five-door, Van and Courier
configurations. A multi-stage anti-corrosion process is
applied to all new vehicles. This includes zinc
phosphating on some panels, the injection of
wax into boxed sections, and a wax and PVC
coating applied to the underbody for its
protection. Inertia reel seat belts are fitted to all
models, and from the 1994 model year
onwards, the front seat belt stalks are
mounted on automatic mechanical tensioners
(also known as “grabbers”). In the event of a
serious front impact, a spring mass sensor
releases a coil spring which pulls the stalk
buckle downwards and tensions the seat belt.
It is not possible to reset the tensioner once
fired, and it must therefore be renewed. Central locking is a standard or optional
fitment on all models. Where double-locking is
also fitted, the lock mechanism is
disconnected (when the system is in use) from
the interior door handles, making it impossible
to open any of the doors or the tailgate from
inside the vehicle. This means that, even if a
thief should break a side window, it will not be
possible to open the door using the interior
handle.
2 Maintenance -
bodywork and underframe
1
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment. The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Oddly enough,
the best time to clean the underframe and
wheel arches is in wet weather, when the mud
is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at
many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to become thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
Note that these methods should not be used
on vehicles with wax-based underbody
protective coating, or the coating will be
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
annually, preferably just prior to Winter, when
the underbody should be washed down, and
any damage to the wax coating repaired.
Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be
applied. It would also be worth considering
the use of such wax-based protection for
injection into door panels, sills, box sections,
etc, as an additional safeguard against rust
damage, where such protection is not
provided by the vehicle manufacturer. After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish
will give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish. Always check that
the door and ventilator opening drain holes
and pipes are completely clear, so that water
can be drained out .Brightwork should be
treated in the same way as paintwork.
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear
of the smeary film which often appears, by the
use of proprietary glass cleaner. Never use
any form of wax or other body or chromium
polish on glass.
3 Maintenance -
upholstery and carpets
1
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot.
Note
:
If the inside of the vehicle gets wet
accidentally, it is worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly, particularly
where carpets are involved .
Warning: Do not leave oil or
electric heaters inside the
vehicle for this purpose.
4 Minor body damage-
repair
3
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water. Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish. Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface
of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
11•2 Bodywork and fittings
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7.3a Removing the bonnet release latch
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together, using a hot-air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene). Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting. If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time, the use of a universal paint
was not possible, owing to the complex range
of plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally possess.
5 Major body damage
-
repair
5
Where serious damage has occurred, or
large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
means that complete new panels will need
welding-in, and this is best left to
professionals. If the damage is due to impact,
it will also be necessary to check completely
the alignment of the bodyshell, and this can
only be carried out accurately by a Ford
dealer, using special jigs. If the body is left
misaligned, it is primarily dangerous, as the
car will not handle properly; secondly, uneven
stresses will be imposed on the steering,
suspension and possibly transmission,
causing abnormal wear, or complete failure,
particularly to such items as the tyres.
6 Bonnet - removal,
refitting and adjustment
1
Removal
1 Raise the bonnet and support it on its stay.
2 Using a felt tip marker pen or similar, mark
around the hinge positions on the bonnet.
3 Cut the windscreen washer jet hose in the
engine compartment, or release it from its one-
way valve (if already fitted), then release the hose
from the bonnet hinge clip (see illustration).
4 With the aid of an assistant, support the
bonnet assembly and remove the four bolts
securing it to its hinges. Remove the bonnet
assembly, taking care to disengage the stay
before the bonnet is moved.
Refitting and adjustment
5 To refit, first align the marks made on the
bonnet with the hinges, then refit and fully
tighten the four securing bolts. Support the
bonnet on its stay.
6 Refit the windscreen washer jet hose into
the bonnet hinge clip, and join it up using a
one-way (non-return) valve, having ensured
correct routing. Ensure that the valve is
installed the correct way round, allowing flow
to the jets but resisting return flow back to the
reservoir.
7 Close the bonnet and ensure that there is
an equal gap at each side, between the
bonnet and the wings, and that it sits flush in
relation to its surrounding panels.
8 The bonnet should close smoothly and
positively with no excessive pressure being
applied. If this is not the case, adjustment will
be necessary.
9 To adjust the bonnet closure, adjustable
bump stops are fitted to the closure panel
(see illustration) . These may be raised or
lowered by screwing in or out, as necessary.
The bonnet latch may also be adjusted, as
required, and this is covered in Section 8 of
this Chapter.
7 Bonnet release mechanism - removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Remove the screws securing the lower
steering column shroud to its location and,
where applicable, detach the choke warning
light switch/pull control assembly, from it.
2 Operate the bonnet release lever then raise
and support the bonnet. If the release cable is
broken, it will be necessary to detach the
latch from its body location by undoing the
three latch retaining screws through the gap
between the leading edge of the bonnet and
the radiator grille slot.
3 With the bonnet open, remove the three
screws securing the latch to the body.
Disengage the release cable from the latch
(see illustrations) .
11•4 Bodywork and fittings
6.9 Altering the setting of a bonnet closure
bump stop
6.3 Windscreen washer jet hose in enginecompartment
A Hose located to bonnet hinge clip
B Position of cut
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4Pull the latch end of the cable into the
engine compartment, noting cable routing and
clips fitted. Remove the cable from its clips.
5 Detach the cable from its release lever on
the steering column, by aligning the cable
core with the slot on the release lever and
withdrawing the end fixing. Detach the cable
from its outer core abutment on the steering
column lock housing.
6 Unclip the cable from its pedal box
location, then detach the bulkhead grommet
and pass the cable through into the engine
compartment. Withdraw the cable from the
vehicle.
7 The release lever on the steering column
may be removed, if required, by unhooking
the spring from its retaining arms, then
disengaging its retaining arms from the
steering column lock housing.
Refitting
8 Refit the release lever, if removed, by
reversing the method of removal.
9 To install the release cable, first pass the
latch end of the cable down the right-hand
side of the steering column, through its
bulkhead location, and out into the engine
compartment.
10 Fit the cable to its clip on the pedal box
assembly, then reconnect the cable to the
release lever and the steering column lock
housing abutment by reversing the method of
removal.
11 Where applicable, refit the choke warning
light switch/pull control assembly, to the lower steering column shroud, by reversing the
method of removal. Refit the shroud.
12
Seat the release cable grommet into the
bulkhead.
13 Route and secure the release cable in the
engine compartment.
14 Reconnect the release cable to the latch,
then refit the latch to the body, setting the
latch at its maximum height position, and
tightening only the bottom retaining screw.
15 Adjust the latch for flush bonnet closure in
accordance with Section 8.
8 Bonnet latch - adjustment
1
1To adjust the bonnet latch, remove the two
upper latch retaining screws, then with the
latch raised to its maximum height position
and secured with the lower retaining screw,
close the bonnet.
2 Slacken the lower latch retaining screw,
through the gap between the leading edge of
the bonnet and the radiator grille slot, then
set the bonnet so it sits flush with its
surrounding panels - it may be necessary to
adjust the height of the bump stops (see
Section 6) if they have been moved in any
way, or if fitting a new bonnet.
3 With the desired bonnet closure obtained,
fully tighten the lower latch retaining screw,
then open the bonnet and refit the two upper
latch retaining screws, tightening to the
specified torque.
9 Body adhesive emblems -
renewal
1
1 Using a length of strong thin diameter cord
(fishing line is ideal), break the adhesive bond
between the emblem and the panel.
2 Thoroughly clean all traces of the old
adhesive from the emblem location, using
methylated spirit, taking all normal safety
precautions. Allow the emblem location to
dry.
3 Gently heat the new emblem until it is warm
to the touch. 4
Peel the protective backing paper from the
emblem then, taking care not to touch the
adhesive, position the emblem on the panel.
Maintain hand pressure evenly for at least
thirty seconds to ensure a good bond.
10 Body trim mouldings -
removal and refitting
1
Roof drip rail moulding (all
models except Courier)
Removal
1 Remove the drip rail moulding by gently
raising the forward end from its retaining
flange, taking care not to bend or kink it, then
carefully pull it off the retaining flange (see
illustration) .
Refitting
2To refit the drip rail moulding, first align the
rear of the moulding to the roof panel edge by
the tailgate, then, using the flat palm of the
hand, gently tap the moulding down.
3 If fitting the Ford roof rack, the drip rail
mouldings on both sides must be removed
and replaced by a ten-piece moulding kit,
available from Ford dealerships.
Roof drip rail moulding (Courier
models)
Removal
4 These are released by lifting and gripping
the moulding’s inboard edge, then by
rotating the whole length of the moulding
towards the outside of the vehicle to release it
from its outboard lip.
Refitting
5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure that the moulding’s
outboard edge is seated securely in its lip
before pressing the inboard edge firmly into
place.
Door side moulding
Removal
6 Apply masking tape, as an alignment guide
and to protect the paintwork, just above and
just below the moulding to be renewed.
7 Using a length of strong thin diameter cord
(fishing line is ideal), break the bond between
the moulding and the panel, and remove the
moulding (see illustration) .
Refitting
8Thoroughly clean the moulding location of
any trace of old adhesive, using methylated
spirit, taking all normal safety precautions.
Allow the moulding location to dry.
9 Continue to proceed using a similar
technique to that described in Section 9
taking care to align the moulding correctly.
10 To improve the adhesive bond, apply
pressure over the whole length of the
moulding using a roller.
11 Remove the masking tape carefully.
Bodywork and fittings 11•5
7.3b Bonnet release cable attachments at
the latch
A Outer cable attachment
B Inner cable attachment
10.7 Removing a door side moulding
A Masking tape C Nylon cord (fishing line)
B Moulding
10.1 Removing a roof drip rail moulding
11
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12
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Fuses - pre-1992 models
Main fuse board:
No Rating (amps) Circuit(s) protected
1 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . Electronic engine control system
2 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Interior light, cigarette lighter, clock and radio memory
3 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Central locking system
4 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window element
5 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Dim-dip lighting
6 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand side lights and rear fog light
7 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand side lights
8 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand dipped beam
9 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand dipped beam
10 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand main beam and right-hand auxiliary driving light
11 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand main beam and left-hand auxiliary driving light
12 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Heater fan motor and reversing light
13 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator cooling fan motor
14 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Front foglights (XR2i only)
15 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Horn
16 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Wiper motor and windscreen/tailgate washer pump
17 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Brake stop lights, instrument illumination and instrument warning
18 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Electrically operated windows
19 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Electric fuel pump
20 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Oxygen sensor (vehicles with catalytic converter)
21 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand direction indicators
22 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand direction indicators
Chapter 12
Body electrical systems
Air bag (driver’s side) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Air bag (passenger’s side) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . \
. . . . . . . 29
Air bag clock spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Air bag control module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Anti-theft systems - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Battery, bulbs and fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly checks”
Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cigarette lighter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Electric window regulator motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 20
Electrical fault-finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Exterior light units - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Fuses and relays - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight and auxiliary light beam alignment - checking and
adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 8
Horn - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Instrument panel components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 10
“Lights-on” warning module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Radio aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Radio/cassette player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Screen washer fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly checks”
Speaker balance control joystick - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 24
Speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Speedometer cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tailgate remote release motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Tailgate wiper motor assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . 16
Windscreen wiper pivot shaft - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Windscreen/tailgate washer system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 19
Wiper arms - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”
12•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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Additional fuses behind main fuse board:
NoRating (amps) Circuit(s) protected
23 - . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . Unused
24/25 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Rear fog lights
26 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Tailgate remote release
27/28 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen
Fuses - 1992 models onward
Main fuse board:
Fuses 1 to 22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . Unchanged from pre-1992 models
Additional fuses behind main fuse board:
No Rating (amps) Circuit(s) protected
23* - . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Unused
23** 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Rear fog lights
24* - . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Unused 24** 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Rear fog lights
25 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Tailgate remote release, anti-theft warning system
26 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen
27 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen
28* 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Full-length sunroof
28** 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Automatic transmission starter inhibitor
29 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Air bag
* Pre-1994 models
** 1994 models onward
Relays (pre-1992 models)
Note: Relay locations and circuits controlled are liable to change from year t\
o year. Consult a Ford dealer, for specific information.
No Circuit(s) controlled
I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window
II . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windscreen wiper delay
III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . CFi (fuel injection) delay relay
IV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not used on UK models
V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition switch
VI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Automatic transmission starter inhibitor/electric fuel pump (bridge fitted to carburettor engines without automatic transmission)
VII . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlight main beam
VIII . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dim-dip lighting
IX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not used on UK models
X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not used on UK models
XI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen
XII . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-lock braking system
A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Idle speed control (automatic transmission) two-tone horn (where fitt\
ed)
B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not used on UK models
C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front foglights (XR2i)
D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlight dipped beam
E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dim-dip lighting
Relays (1992 models onward)
Note: Relay locations and circuits controlled are liable to change from year t\
o year. Consult a Ford dealer, for specific information.
No Circuit(s) controlled
I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window
II . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windscreen wiper delay
III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . CFi delay relay or EFi supply relay (fuel injection)
IV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not used on UK models
V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition switch
VI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Automatic transmission starter inhibitor, anti-theft warning system
VII . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlight main beam
VIII . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-lock braking system and/or dim-dip lighting
IX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not used on UK models
X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not used on UK models
XI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen
XII . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-lock braking system
A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Idle speed control (automatic transmission) or two-tone horn (where f\
itted)
B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel pump
C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front foglights (XR2i, RS Turbo and RS 1800)
D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlight dipped beam
E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dim-dip lighting
F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not used on UK models
12•2 Body electrical systems
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