1989 FORD FIESTA engine

1 General information
The braking system is of the diagonally
split, dual-circuit hydraulic type, with servo
assistance to the front disc brakes and rear
drum brakes. The dual-circuit hydraulic
system is a safety feature - in the event of a
malfunction somewhere in one of the
hydraulic circuits, the other circuit continues
to operate, providing at least some braking
effort. Under normal circumstances, both
brake circuits operate in unison, to provide
efficient braking.
The master cylinder (and the vacuum servo
unit to which it is bolted) is located on the left-
hand side of the bulkhead in the engine
compartment. On all right-hand drive variants,
they are jointly operated via a transverse
cross-link from the brake pedal.
Brake pressure control valves are fitted in-
line to each rear brake circuit, their function
being to regulate the braking force available at
each rear wheel, reducing the possibility of
the rear wheels locking up under heavy
braking. Courier models also have a “light-
laden” valve incorporated into the rear braking
circuits for the same reason. The front brake discs are of the ventilated
type on XR2i and ABS-equipped models, with
solid discs fitted on all other models. The front
brake calipers are of single sliding piston type
mounted on the front spindle carriers each
side. Each rear brake shoe assembly is operated
by a twin-piston wheel cylinder. The leading
brake shoe in each brake unit has a thicker
lining than the trailing shoe, so that they wear
proportionally. To take up the brake
adjustment as the linings wear, each rear
brake assembly incorporates an automatic
adjuster mechanism. The cable-operated handbrake acts on
both rear brakes, to provide an independent
means of brake operation. An anti-lock braking system (ABS) is
available on some models, and has many of
the components in common with the conventional braking system. Further details
on ABS can be found later in this Chapter.
Note:
When servicing any part of the system,
work carefully and methodically; also observe
scrupulous cleanliness when overhauling any
part of the hydraulic system. Always renew
components (in axle sets, where applicable) if
in doubt about their condition, and use only
genuine Ford replacement parts, or at least
those of known good quality. Note the
warnings given in “Safety first” and at relevant
points in this Chapter concerning the dangers
of asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
2 Front brake pads - renewal
2
Warning: Disc brake pads MUST
be renewed on both front
wheels at the same time -
NEVER renew the pads on only
one wheel, as uneven braking may result.
The front brake calipers will be of Bendix
or Teves manufacture, and if they or their
component parts require renewal, ensure
that the correct type is fitted. Dust created
by wear of the pads may contain asbestos,
which is a health hazard. Never blow it out
with compressed air, and do not inhale any
of it. DO NOT use petroleum-based
solvents to clean brake parts - use brake
cleaner or methylated spirit only. DO NOT allow any brake fluid, oil or grease to
contact the brake pads or disc. Also refer
to the warning in Section 13 concerning
the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1
Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Hold the caliper support spring with a pair
of pliers, and prise it out of its location in the
caliper housing using a screwdriver (see
illustration) .
3 Prise free the blanking plugs from the
caliper upper and lower mounting bolts.
Unscrew the bolts, then withdraw the caliper
from the anchor bracket (see illustrations).
Suitably support the caliper to avoid straining
the brake hose.
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Master cylinder to servo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 20 to 25 15 to 18
Servo to mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 45 26 to 33
Pedal-to-servo cross-link brackets to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18
Rear drum/hub to axle flange bolts* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 to 76 41 to 56
Caliper-to-spindle carrier (anchor bracket) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 to 66 37 to 49
Caliper piston housing retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18
Load-apportioning valves to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18
Load-apportioning valve bracket to vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21
Load-apportioning valve adjustment screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 to 16 9 to 12
Load-apportioning valve-to-axle beam link rod nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21
Modulator pivot and adjusting clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Modulator drivebelt cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
8 to 12 6 to 9
Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 70 to 110 52 to 74
*Applies to all models except Courier. No figures are quoted by the manu\
facturers for Courier models.
9•2 Braking system
2.3b . . . unscrew the bolts then withdraw the caliper from the anchor bracket2.3a Remove the rubber blanking plugs foraccess to the caliper mounting bolts . . .
2.2 Prise out the caliper support spring with a screwdriver
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4Withdraw the pads from the caliper piston
housing or anchor bracket. The outer pad will
normally remain in position in the anchor
bracket, but the inner pad will stay attached to
the piston in the caliper, and may need to be
carefully prised free. If the old pads are to be
refitted, ensure that they are identified so that
they can be returned to their original
positions.
5 Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and
piston, but do not inhale it, as it is a health
hazard . Inspect the dust cover around the
piston for damage and for evidence of fluid
leaks, which if found will necessitate caliper
overhaul as described in Section 3.
6 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the
caliper piston will need to be pushed back
into its housing, to allow for the extra pad
thickness - use a C-clamp to do this. Note
that, as the piston is pressed back into the
bore, it will displace the fluid in the system,
causing the fluid level in the brake master
cylinder reservoir to rise and possibly
overflow. To avoid this possibility, a small
quantity of fluid should be removed from the
reservoir. If any brake fluid is spilt onto the
bodywork, hoses or adjacent components in
the engine compartment, wipe it clean without
delay.
7 Prior to refitting, check that the pads and
the disc are clean. Where new pads are to be
installed, peel the protective backing paper
from them. If the old pads are to be refitted,
ensure that they are correctly located as
noted during their removal.
8 Locate the inner and outer brake pad into
position in the caliper. Relocate the caliper
into position on the anchor bracket, and insert
the mounting bolts.
9 Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torque, and refit the blanking plugs. Relocate
the caliper support spring.
10 Repeat the procedure on the opposite
front brake. 11
Before lowering the vehicle, check that
the fluid level in the brake master cylinder
reservoir is up to the “Maximum level” mark,
and top-up with the specified fluid type if
required (see “Weekly Checks” ). Depress the
brake pedal a few times to position the pads
against the disc, then recheck the fluid level in
the reservoir and further top-up if necessary.
12 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the
vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel
retaining nuts to the specified torque.
13 To allow the new brake pads to bed-in
and reach full efficiency, a running-in period of
approximately 100 miles or so should be
observed before hard use and heavy braking.
3 Front brake caliper - removal,
overhaul and refitting
4
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 13
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and
to the warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.
Removal
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible brake
hose leading to the front brake caliper. This
will minimise brake fluid loss during
subsequent operations.
3 Loosen by half a turn, the union on the
caliper end of the flexible brake hose.
4 Remove the front brake pads as described
in Section 2.
5 Support the caliper in one hand, and
prevent the brake hose from turning with a
spanner in the other hand. Unscrew the
caliper from the hose, making sure that the
hose is not twisted unduly or strained (see
illustration) . Once the caliper is detached,
cover or plug the open hydraulic unions to
keep them clean.
6 If required, the caliper anchor bracket can
be unbolted and removed from the spindle
carrier (see illustration) .
Overhaul
7With the caliper on the bench, wipe away all
traces of dust and dirt, but avoid inhaling the
dust, as it is a health hazard .
8 Remove the piston from its bore by
applying low air pressure (from a foot pump,
for example) into the caliper hydraulic fluid
hose port. In the event of a high-pressure air
hose being used, keep the pressure as low as
possible, to enable the piston to be extracted,
but to avoid the piston being ejected too
quickly and being damaged. Position a
suitable piece of wood between the caliper
frame and the piston to prevent this
possibility. Any fluid remaining in the caliper
will probably be ejected with the piston.
9 Using a suitable hooked tool, carefully extract
the dust cover from its groove in the piston
and the seal from its groove in the caliper bore,
but take care not to scratch or damage the
piston and/or the bore in the caliper.
10 Clean all the parts in methylated spirit or
clean brake fluid, and wipe dry using a clean
lint-free cloth (see illustration) . Inspect the
piston and caliper bore for signs of damage,
scuffing or corrosion. If these conditions are
evident, renew the caliper body assembly.
11 If the components are in satisfactory
condition, a repair kit which includes a new
seal and dust cover must be obtained.
12 Lubricate the piston bore in the caliper
and the seal with clean brake fluid. Carefully
fit the seal in the caliper bore, using fingers
only (no tools) to manipulate it into position in
its groove. When in position, check that it is
not distorted or twisted.
13 Locate the dust cover over the piston so
that its inner diameter is engaged in the piston
groove. Smear the area behind the piston
groove with the special lubricating grease
supplied in the repair kit, then insert the piston
into the caliper. Push the piston into position in
the bore, and simultaneously press the dust
cover into the piston housing so that it is seated
correctly. Take particular care not to distort or
damage the seal or cover as they are fitted.
Refitting
14 If the anchor bracket was removed, fit it
into position on the spindle carrier, and tighten
the retaining bolts to the specified torque.
Braking system 9•3
3.10 Brake caliper and piston components
A Dust cover C Piston
B Piston seal D Brake caliper
3.6 Undoing a brake caliper anchor bracket bolt3.5 Hold the brake hose with a spannerand unscrew the caliper from the hose
9
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
An ideal way to remove fluidfrom the master cylinder
reservoir is to use a clean
syringe or an old poultry
baster.
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13 Hydraulic system- bleeding
(conventional braking system)
3
Note: For vehicles equipped with an anti-lock
braking system, refer to Section 14. Warning: Hydraulic fluid is
poisonous; wash off
immediately and thoroughly in
the case of skin contact, and
seek immediate medical advice if any fluid
is swallowed or gets into the eyes. Certain
types of hydraulic fluid are inflammable,
and may ignite when allowed into contact
with hot components; when servicing any
hydraulic system, it is safest to assume
that the fluid IS inflammable, and to take
precautions against the risk of fire as
though it is petrol that is being handled.
Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paint
stripper, and will attack plastics; if any is
spilt, it should be washed off immediately,
using copious quantities of clean water.
Finally, it is hygroscopic (it absorbs
moisture from the air). The more moisture
is absorbed by the fluid, the lower its
boiling point becomes, leading to a
dangerous loss of braking under hard use.
Old fluid may be contaminated and unfit
for further use. When topping-up or
renewing the fluid, always use the
recommended type, and ensure that it
comes from a freshly-opened sealed
container.
1 The correct operation of any hydraulic
system is only possible after removing all air
from the components and circuit; and this is
achieved by bleeding the system.
2 During the bleeding procedure, add only
clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the
recommended type; never re-use fluid that
has already been bled from the system.
Ensure that sufficient fluid is available before
starting work.
3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid
being already in the system, the brake
components and circuit must be flushed
completely with uncontaminated, correct
fluid, and new seals should be fitted
throughout the system.
4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the
system, or air has entered because of a leak,
ensure that the fault is cured before
proceeding further.
5 Park the vehicle on level ground, and apply
the handbrake. Switch off the engine, then
(where applicable) depress the brake pedal
several times to dissipate the vacuum from
the servo unit. Note:When bleeding the
system, the vehicle must maintain a level
attitude, ie not tilted in any manner, to ensure
that air is not trapped within the pressure
control valves. During certain operations in
this manual, instructions are given to bleed the
brake hydraulic system with the front or the
rear of the vehicle raised. In such cases raise
the rest of the vehicle so that it maintains a level attitude, but only if it is safe to do so. If it
is not possible to achieve this safely, complete
the remainder of the operation and bleed the
brake hydraulic system with the vehicle on its
wheels.
6
Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,
unions tight and bleed screws closed.
Remove the dust caps (where applicable), and
clean any dirt from around the bleed screws.
7 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap, then remove the
filler cap. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. Top-up the reservoir with the
specified fluid to the “Maximum” level (see
“Weekly Checks” ). Remember to maintain the
fluid level at least above the “Minimum” level
line throughout the procedure, otherwise
there is a risk of further air entering the
system.
8 There are a number of one-man, do-it-
yourself brake bleeding kits currently available
from motor accessory shops. It is
recommended that one of these kits is used
whenever possible, as they greatly simplify
the bleeding operation, and also reduce the
risk of expelled air and fluid being drawn back
into the system. If such a kit is not available,
the basic (two-man) method must be used,
which is described in detail below.
9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the vehicle as
described previously, and follow the kit
manufacturer’s instructions, as the procedure
may vary slightly according to the type being
used; generally, they are as outlined below in
the relevant sub-section.
10 Whichever method is used, the same
sequence must be followed (paragraphs 11
and 12) to ensure the removal of all air from
the system.
Bleeding sequence
11 If the system has been only partially
disconnected, and suitable precautions were
taken to minimise fluid loss, it should be
necessary to bleed only that part of the
system (ie the primary or secondary circuit).
12 If the complete system is to be bled, then
it is suggested that you work in the following
sequence: a) Right-hand front wheel.
b) Left-hand rear wheel.
c) Left-hand front wheel.
d) Right-hand rear wheel.
Bleeding - basic (two-man)
method
13 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length
of plastic or rubber tubing which is a tight fit
over the bleed screw, and a ring spanner to fit
the screw. The help of an assistant will also be
required.
14 Remove the dust cap from the first screw
in the sequence (if not already done). Fit a
suitable spanner and tube to the screw, place
the other end of the tube in the jar, and pour in
sufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube.
15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir fluid level is maintained at least above the
“Minimum” level throughout the procedure.
16
Have the assistant fully depress the brake
pedal several times to build up pressure, then
maintain it down on the final downstroke.
17 While pedal pressure is maintained,
unscrew the bleed screw (approximately one
turn) and allow the compressed fluid and air to
flow into the jar. The assistant should maintain
pedal pressure, following the pedal down to
the floor if necessary, and should not
release the pedal until instructed to do so.
When the flow stops, tighten the bleed screw
again. Have the assistant release the pedal
slowly, and recheck the reservoir fluid level.
18 Repeat the steps given in paragraphs 16
and 17 until the fluid emerging from the bleed
screw is free from air bubbles. If the master
cylinder has been drained and refilled, and air
is being bled from the first screw in the
sequence, allow at least five seconds between
cycles for the master cylinder passages to refill.
19 When no more air bubbles appear, tighten
the bleed screw securely, remove the tube
and spanner, and refit the dust cap (where
applicable). Do not overtighten the bleed
screw.
20 Repeat the procedure on the remaining
screws in the sequence, until all air is
removed from the system and the brake pedal
feels firm again.
Bleeding - using a one-way
valve kit
21 As their name implies, these kits consist of
a length of tubing with a one-way valve fitted,
to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn
back into the system; some kits include a
translucent container, which can be positioned
so that the air bubbles can be more easily
seen flowing from the end of the tube.
22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw,
which is then opened (see illustration). The
user returns to the driver’s seat, depresses
the brake pedal with a smooth, steady stroke,
and slowly releases it; this is repeated until
the expelled fluid is clear of air bubbles.
23 Note that these kits simplify work so
much that it is easy to forget the master
cylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this is
maintained at least above the “Minimum” level
at all times.
9•10 Braking system
13.22 Bleeding the hydraulic system using a one-way valve kit
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Bleeding - using a pressure-
bleeding kit
24These kits are usually operated by the
reservoir of pressurised air contained in the
spare tyre. However, note that it will probably
be necessary to reduce the pressure to a
lower level than normal; refer to the
instructions supplied with the kit.
25 By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled
container to the master cylinder reservoir,
bleeding can be carried out simply by opening
each screw in turn (in the specified sequence),
and allowing the fluid to flow out until no more
air bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid.
26 This method has the advantage that the
large reservoir of fluid provides an additional
safeguard against air being drawn into the
system during bleeding.
27 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effective
when bleeding “difficult” systems, or when
bleeding the complete system at the time of
routine fluid renewal.
All methods
28 When bleeding is complete, and firm
pedal feel is restored, wash off any spilt fluid,
tighten the bleed screws securely, and refit
their dust caps.
29 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the
master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if
necessary.
30 Discard any hydraulic fluid that has been
bled from the system; it will not be fit for re-
use.
31 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it
feels at all spongy, air must still be present in
the system, and further bleeding is required.
Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a
reasonable repetition of the bleeding
procedure may be due to worn master
cylinder seals.
14 Hydraulic system - bleeding
(anti-lock braking system)
3
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 13
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1 On vehicles equipped with the anti-lock braking system there are two bleed
procedures possible, depending on which
part of the brake hydraulic system has been
disturbed.
2
If any one of the following conditions are
present, bleed procedure A should be
adopted: a) A modulator has been removed.
b) A modulator return hose (between
modulator and brake fluid reservoir) has
been drained.
c) The rigid brake pipes have been disconnected from a modulator.
3 If any one of the following conditions are
present, bleed procedure B should be
adopted: a) Any condition where the master cylinder
has been removed or drained, providing
that the modulator return hoses have not
lost their head of fluid.
b) Removal or disconnection of any of the
basic braking system components ie,
brake caliper, flexible hose or rigid pipe,
wheel cylinder, or load-apportioning
valve.
Bleed procedure A
4Raise the vehicle on ramps, or drive it over
an inspection pit, so that working clearance
may be obtained with the full weight of the
vehicle on its roadwheels. Remove the one-
piece undertray, as applicable, by turning its
bayonet-type fasteners and, on XR2i models,
remove the front suspension crossmember
(see Chapter 10).
5 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap, then remove the
filler cap. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. Top-up the brake fluid reservoir to
the MAX mark using fresh fluid of the
specified type (see “Weekly Checks”), and
keep it topped up throughout the bleeding
procedure.
6 Slacken the modulator bypass valve Torx
screw, located between the two rigid brake
pipe connections on the modulator body, and
unscrew it two full turns (see illustration).
7 Fully depress the auto-bleed plunger on the
modulator and hold it down so that the
plunger circlip contacts the modulator body
(see illustration) . With the plunger depressed, have an assistant steadily pump
the brake pedal at least twenty times whilst
you observe the fluid returning to the brake
fluid reservoir. Continue this operation until
the returning fluid is free from air bubbles.
8
Release the auto-bleed plunger, ensuring
that it returns to its normal operational
position - pull it out by hand if necessary.
9 Tighten the modulator bypass valve Torx
screw.
10 Repeat the operation on the other
modulator, if applicable, then refit the one-
piece undertray and the front suspension
crossmember if removed.
11 Now carry out bleed procedure B.
Bleed procedure B
12This procedure is the same as for
conventional braking systems, and reference
should be made to Section 13. Note,
however, that all the weight of the vehicle
must be on the roadwheels, otherwise the
load-apportioning valves will not bleed. If
problems are encountered whereby the rear
brakes will not bleed satisfactorily, ensure that
the load-apportioning valves are correctly
adjusted (see Section 25). As with the
conventional braking system, the brake fluid
level must be kept topped up during bleeding.
15 Vacuum servo unit - testing,
removal and refitting
3
Testing
1 To test the operation of the servo, depress
the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum, then start the engine while keeping
the footbrake depressed. As the engine starts,
there should be a noticeable “give” in the
brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the
engine to run for at least two minutes, and
then switch it off. If the brake pedal is
depressed again, it should be possible to
detect a hiss from the servo when the pedal is
depressed. After about four or five
applications, no further hissing will be heard,
and the pedal will feel considerably firmer.
2 Before assuming that a problem exists in
the servo itself, check the non-return valve as
described in the next Section.
Removal
3 Refer to Section 9 and remove the master
cylinder.
4 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the servo
non-return valve by pulling it free. If it is
reluctant to move, assist it by prising it free
using a screwdriver with its blade inserted
under the elbow flange.
5 Lift up the flap of sound insulation on the
bulkhead, in the passenger side footwell, to
expose the servo mounting bracket retaining
nuts (see illustration 11.6) . Remove the two
innermost nuts to free the inner section of the
servo mounting bracket from its bulkhead
Braking system 9•11
14.7 Modulator auto-bleed plunger (arrowed)14.6 Modulator bypass valve Torx screw (arrowed)
9
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the equaliser from the primary cable (see
illustration) .
5 Remove the primary cable guide by drifting
it out rearwards, through the floorpan, from
the inside of the vehicle.
Refitting
6 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Ensure
that the cable guide is secured in the floorpan,
and lubricate the pivot pin with a liberal
amount of high-melting-point grease.
7 Refit the exhaust system and heat shields
with reference to Chapter 4E (where applicable).
8 Refer to Chapter 1 for details, and adjust
the handbrake as required before lowering the
vehicle to the ground.
19 Handbrake rear cable -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Fully
release the handbrake lever and remove the
rear roadwheels.
2 Refer to the previous Section for details,
and disconnect the handbrake primary cable
from the equaliser.
3 Disconnect the handbrake cable from its
adjuster body location and its fixed body location
(see illustration) , then remove it from
its retaining clips.
4 Remove the rear brake drum(s) and brake
shoes as described in Sections 5 and 6
respectively.
5 Compress the handbrake cable retainer
lugs and release the cable from the backplate,
then pull the cable through. Release the cable
from the underbody fixings, and remove
it from the vehicle.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Refer to Sections 6 and 5
respectively for details on the refitting of the
brake shoes and drums.
7 When the cable is fully refitted (but before
lowering the vehicle rear wheels to the
ground) check and adjust the handbrake as
described in Chapter 1.
20 Brake pressure control valves - removal and refitting
3
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 13
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Removal
1 The pressure control valves are located in
the engine compartment, fixed to the left-
hand inner wing panel or screwed directly into
the master cylinder fluid outlet ports (see
illustrations) .
2 Minimise hydraulic fluid loss by
disconnecting the wiring multi-plug from the fluid level warning indicator in the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap, then remove the
filler cap. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. Place a piece of plastic film over the
reservoir and seal it with an elastic band.
Detach the rigid brake pipes from the valves.
As the pipes are disconnected, tape over the
exposed ends, or fit plugs, to prevent the
ingress of dirt and excessive fluid loss.
3
To remove the inner wing panel mounted
assembly, remove the two screws securing
the valve assembly mounting bracket to the
inner wing panel, and withdraw the valve
assembly from the vehicle. To remove the
valves from the bracket, slide free the
retaining clips and detach the valve(s).
4 To remove the master cylinder mounted
valves, unscrew them from the master
cylinder body.
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
6 On completion, bleed the complete
hydraulic system as described in Section 13.
21 Light-laden valve (Courier models) - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 13
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Removal
1 For this operation, the vehicle must be
raised for access underneath at the rear, but
must still be resting on its wheels. Suitable
ramps (or an inspection pit) will therefore be
required. If positioning the vehicle on a pair of
ramps, chock the front roadwheels.
2 Minimise hydraulic fluid loss by
disconnecting the wiring multi-plug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap, then remove the
filler cap. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. Place a piece of plastic film over the
reservoir and seal it with an elastic band.
3 Disconnect the four brake pipes from the
valve, and drain any escaping fluid into a
suitable container for disposal (see
illustration) . Due to its location, care will be
Braking system 9•13
19.3 Handbrake rear cable fixed body
location18.4 Handbrake equaliser yokearrangement
A Clevis pin securing clip
B Clevis pin
C Equaliser yoke
D Primary cable guide
21.3 Hydraulic pipe and linkage
attachments at the light-laden valve20.1b Pressure control valves and pipe
connections at the master cylinder - later
models20.1a Pressure control valves located onleft-hand inner wing panel
9
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needed not to spill the fluid onto the hands -
wear suitable protective gloves. Plug or cap
the disconnected pipes and valve openings,
to prevent dirt ingress and further fluid loss.
4Unbolt the valve from its mounting bracket,
unhook the linkage from the rear axle, then
withdraw the valve (see illustration). The
intermediate bracket may be unbolted if
required.
Refitting
5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; adjust the valve as described in
Section 22, then bleed the complete hydraulic
system as described in Section 13. Check the
operation of the brakes before taking the
vehicle out on the road.
22 Light-laden valve (Courier models) - adjustment
2
Note:To adjust the valve accurately, the
vehicle must be at a known rear axle loading -
owners who cannot determine the loading
with sufficient accuracy must have this check
made by a Ford dealer or similar expert.
1 For this operation, the vehicle must be
raised for access underneath at the rear, but
must be standing on its wheels. Suitable
ramps (or an inspection pit) will therefore be
required. If positioning the vehicle on a pair of
ramps, chock the front roadwheels.
2 Measure the distance between the inner
radius of the linkage’s hooked end and the
first shoulder (see illustration) . If the
dimension is not as specified for the axle
loading, adjustment is required.
3 To adjust the setting, slacken the locknut
on the valve linkage, move the rod until the
setting is correct, then tighten the locknut
securely (see illustration) . Check the
operation of the brakes before taking the
vehicle out on the road.
23 Anti-lock braking system (ABS) - general information
A mechanically-driven, two-channel anti-
lock braking system is available as a factory-
fitted option on certain model variants within
the Fiesta range.
The system comprises four main
components; two modulators, one for each
brake circuit, and two rear axle load-
apportioning valves, again, one for each brake
circuit. Apart from the additional hydraulic
piping, the remainder of the braking system is
the same as for conventional models. The modulators are located in the engine
compartment with one mounted on each side
of the transmission, directly above the
driveshaft inner constant velocity joints. Each
modulator contains a shaft which actuates a
flywheel by means of a ball and ramp clutch. A rubber toothed belt is used to drive the
modulator shaft from the driveshaft inner
constant velocity joint.
During driving and under normal braking
the modulator shaft and the flywheel rotate
together and at the same speed through the
engagement of a ball and ramp clutch. In this
condition hydraulic pressure from the master
cylinder passes to the modulators and then to
each brake in the conventional way. In the
event of a front wheel locking the modulator
shaft rotation will be less than that of the
flywheel and the flywheel will overrun the ball
and ramp clutch. This causes the flywheel to
slide on the modulator shaft, move inward and
operate a lever which in turn opens a dump
valve. Hydraulic pressure to the locked brake
is released via a de-boost piston allowing the
wheel to once again revolve. Fluid passed
through the dump valve is returned to the
master cylinder reservoir via the modulator
return hoses. At the same time hydraulic
pressure from the master cylinder causes a
pump piston to contact an eccentric cam on
the modulator shaft. The flywheel is then
decelerated at a controlled rate by the
flywheel friction clutch. When the speed of the
modulator shaft and flywheel are once again
equal the dump valve closes and the cycle
repeats. This complete operation takes place
many times a second until the vehicle stops or
the brakes are released. The load-apportioning valves are mounted
on a common bracket attached to the rear
body, just above the rear axle twist beam
location, and are actuated by linkages
attached to the axle beam. The valves
regulate hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes,
in accordance with vehicle load and attitude,
so that the braking force available at the rear
brakes will always be lower than that available
at the front. A belt-break warning switch is fitted to the
cover which surrounds each modulator
drivebelt. The switch contains an arm which is
in contact with the drivebelt at all times. If the
belt should break, or if the adjustment of
the belt is too slack, the arm will move out
closing the switch contacts and informing the
driver via an instrument panel warning light.
24 Anti-lock braking system (ABS) components - removal
and refitting
3
Modulator
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 13
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Minimise hydraulic fluid loss by
disconnecting the wiring multi-plug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap, then remove the
filler cap. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. Place a piece of plastic film over the
reservoir and seal it with an elastic band.
3 Disconnect the modulator return hoses
from the master cylinder reservoir, collecting
any fluid spillage from the hoses in a suitable
tray. The modulator return hose unions should
be disconnected by first pushing the hose
into the reservoir, then retaining the collar
against the reservoir body whilst withdrawing
the hose. Note that the hoses are colour
coded - the left-hand modulator has a black
return hose and connector, and should be
fitted to the forward section of the reservoir,
whilst the right-hand modulator has a grey
return hose and connector, and should be
fitted to the rear section of the reservoir.
9•14 Braking system
22.3 Light-laden valve linkage adjustment locknut (arrowed)
22.2 Light-laden valve adjustment details
With rear axle load at 400 kg, “X” should be 147 mm
With rear axle load at 850 kg,
“X” should be 166 mm
21.4 Light-laden valve mounting bolts (arrowed)
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Right-hand side
4Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
5 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning the bayonet type fasteners,
and on XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember (see Chapter 10).
6 From underneath, remove the belt-break
switch from the right-hand drivebelt cover by
squeezing its release lever towards the main
body of the switch (see illustration), then
carefully withdraw, ensuring that the belt
contact arm does not catch on the drivebelt
cover.
7 Remove the two bolts securing the
modulator drivebelt cover to the modulator
mounting bracket, and withdraw the cover
(see illustration) .
8 Disconnect the rigid brake pipes from the
modulator, fitting blanking plugs to prevent
excessive fluid loss and dirt ingress.
9 Remove the modulator pivot bolt and
adjuster bolt (see illustration) , then slip the
drivebelt from its pulley, and withdraw the
modulator unit from the vehicle. Ensure that
the modulator return hose does not become
kinked as the modulator unit is withdrawn.
10 Disconnect the modulator return hose
from the modulator unit, and fit a blanking
plug to prevent dirt ingress. Allow for residual
fluid spillage as the hose is disconnected.
11 If a new modulator is to be fitted, note that
these units are not interchangeable from side
to side, and the correct replacement must be
obtained. The modulator units are colour-
coded, and must be fitted with the arrows on
top of the casings pointing towards the front
of the vehicle.
12 To refit, first connect the modulator return
hose to the return outlet on the modulator
unit.
13 Locate the modulator unit to its bracket
and fit the pivot bolt, having applied a thin
smear of anti-seize compound to the bolt, but
do not fully tighten at this stage. Take care not
to damage the modulator return hose as it is
manoeuvred into position.
14 Fit the drivebelt to its modulator pulley
location, ensuring that it sits correctly over the driveshaft pulley, then refit the adjuster bolt
but do not fully tighten at this stage.
15
Adjust the tension of the drivebelt by
moving the modulator unit, until a belt
deflection of 5.0 mm is obtained under firm
finger pressure. Check this using a ruler at a
point midway between the two pulleys.
16 With the drivebelt tensioned correctly,
tighten the pivot and adjuster bolts to the
specified torque. Re-check the tension of the
drivebelt after tightening the bolts.
17 Reconnect the rigid brake pipes to the
modulator, tightening the unions securely.
18 Refit the modulator drivebelt cover to the
modulator mounting bracket, and secure with
its two retaining bolts.
19 Refit the belt-break switch to the
modulator drivebelt cover, taking care not to
damage the belt contact arm as it passes
through the cover.
20 Reconnect the modulator return hose by
pushing the hose firmly into its brake fluid
reservoir location, then lever out the collar to
retain it.
21 Refit the front suspension crossmember
and the one-piece undertray, as applicable.
22 Lower the vehicle to the ground.
23 Top-up the brake fluid reservoir using
fresh fluid of the specified type (see “ Weekly
checks ”), then bleed the brake hydraulic
system in accordance with Section 14. Refit
the reservoir filler cap and warning indicator
wiring multi-plug on completion.
24 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
Left-hand side
25Repeat the procedures given in
paragraphs 1 to 3.
26 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
27 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning the bayonet type fasteners,
and on XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember (see Chapter 10).
28 Remove the belt-break switch from the
left-hand drivebelt cover in a similar manner to
that described in paragraph 6, this time from
the engine compartment. 29
Remove the two bolts securing the
modulator drivebelt cover to the modulator
mounting bracket, then ease the lower portion
of the cover over the driveshaft taking care
not to damage the driveshaft CV joint gaiter.
Withdraw the cover through the engine
compartment, manoeuvring it to clear
obstructions.
30 Disconnect the rigid brake pipes from the
modulator, fitting blanking plugs to prevent
excessive fluid loss and dirt ingress.
31 Slacken the modulator pivot and adjuster
bolts, then swing the modulator downwards
to release the drivebelt tension before slipping
the drivebelt from its modulator pulley
location.
32 Remove the modulator pivot and adjuster
bolts, withdraw the modulator upwards
through the engine compartment. Ensure that
the modulator return hose does not become
kinked as the modulator unit is withdrawn.
33 Disconnect the modulator return hose
from the modulator unit, and fit a blanking
plug to prevent dirt ingress. Allow for residual
fluid spillage as the hose is disconnected.
34 If a new modulator is to be fitted, note that
these units are not interchangeable from side
to side, and the correct replacement must be
obtained. The modulator units are colour-
coded, and must be fitted with the arrows on
top of the casings pointing towards the front
of the vehicle.
35 To refit, first connect the modulator return
hose to the return outlet on the modulator
unit.
36 Locate the modulator unit to its mounting
bracket and fit the pivot bolt, having applied a
thin smear of anti-seize compound to the bolt,
but do not fully tighten at this stage. Take care
not to damage the modulator return hose as it
is manoeuvred into position.
37 Fit the drivebelt to its modulator pulley
location, ensuring that it sits correctly over the
driveshaft pulley, then refit the adjuster bolt
but do not fully tighten at this stage.
38 Adjust the tension of the drivebelt by
moving the modulator unit, until a belt
deflection of 5.0 mm is obtained under firm
finger pressure. Check this using a ruler at a
point midway between the two pulleys.
Braking system 9•15
24.9 Modulator pivot bolt (A) and adjuster bolt (B)24.7 Modulator drivebelt cover to
mounting bracket securing bolts (arrowed)24.6 Belt-break switch in drivebelt cover
A Main switch body B Release lever
9
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8Remove the nuts securing the steering
column mounting bracket.
9 Remove the pinch-bolt securing the lower
steering shaft universal joint to the steering
rack pinion splined shaft, located at the rear of
the engine compartment (see illustration),
and separate the two as far as possible.
10 Pull the steering column assembly from its
bulkhead location and withdraw it from the
vehicle, ensuring that the lower steering shaft
universal joint and the steering rack pinion
splined shaft separate fully. The effort
required to remove the column assembly may
be quite high, due to the close tolerance of
the lower column tube support bush in its
location.
Models with air bag
Warning: Handle the air bag
with extreme care as a
precaution against personal
injury, and always hold it with
the cover facing away from your body. If in
doubt concerning any proposed work
involving the air bag or its control circuitry,
consult a Ford dealer or other qualified
specialist.
11 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
Warning: Before proceeding,
wait a minimum of 15 minutes,
as a precaution against
accidental firing of the air bag.
This period ensures that any stored energy
in the back-up capacitor is dissipated.
12 Undo the screws, and remove the
steering column lower shroud.
13 Undo the two external screws and the two
internal screws and remove the steering
column upper shroud.
14 Turn the steering wheel as necessary so
that one of the air bag module retaining bolts
becomes accessible from the rear of the
steering wheel. Undo the bolt, then turn
the steering wheel again until the second bolt
is accessible. Undo this bolt also.
15 Withdraw the air bag module from the
steering wheel far enough to access the
wiring multi-plug. Some force may be needed
to free the module from the additional steering
wheel spoke retainers. 16
Disconnect the multi-plug from the rear of
the module, and remove the module from the
vehicle. Warning: Position the air bag
module in a safe place, with the
mechanism facing downwards
as a precaution against
accidental operation.
17 Turn the steering wheel so that the
roadwheels are in the straight-ahead position,
then remove the ignition key to lock the
steering.
18 Release the wiring harness from the side
of the steering column and disconnect the air
bag module wiring multi-plug (yellow lead).
19 Disconnect the wiring multi-plugs from
the steering column multi-function switch
assembly.
20 Disconnect the ignition switch wiring
multi-plug connector and remove the loom
plate from its location on the left-hand side of
the steering column.
21 Where applicable, undo the single screw
and withdraw the Passive Anti-Theft System
(PATS) transceiver from the ignition
switch/steering lock barrel (see illus-
tration 19.12) .
22 Unclip the bonnet release cable abutment
from its location in the steering column lock
housing, then detach the cable from the
bonnet release lever by aligning the cable
core with the slot on the release lever and
withdrawing it through that slot. Detach the
spring from the release lever arms, then
disengage the arms from the steering column
lock housing and remove the bonnet release
lever.
23 Remove the nuts securing the steering
column mounting bracket.
24 Remove the pinch-bolt securing the lower
steering shaft universal joint to the steering
rack pinion splined shaft, located at the rear of
the engine compartment, and separate the
two as far as possible.
25 Pull the steering column assembly from its bulkhead location and withdraw it from the
vehicle, ensuring that the lower steering shaft
universal joint and the steering rack pinion
splined shaft separate fully. The effort
required to remove the column assembly may
be quite high, due to the close tolerance of
the lower column tube support bush in its
location.
Refitting
All models
26
Ensure that the roadwheels are in the
straight-ahead position. With the help of an
assistant, insert the steering column assembly
into the vehicle so that the lower steering
shaft universal joint and the pinion splined
shaft on the steering rack locate correctly,
with the steering wheel centralized. Loosely
refit the pinch-bolt to secure. Ensure that the
steering shaft bulkhead seal seats correctly in
its location.
27 With the column assembly located loosely
in position, refit the nuts securing it to its
mounting bracket, taking care to ensure that
the lower column tube support bush seats
correctly as the nuts are tightened to the
specified torque.
28 Refit the steering column ancillary
components, reversing the removal procedure
given in paragraphs 2 to 7 (for models without
air bag) or 12 to 22 (for models with air bag).
29 Tighten the pinch-bolt securing the lower
steering shaft universal joint to the pinion
splined shaft to the specified torque. Ensure
that the pinch-bolt sits in the annular groove
on the pinion splined shaft (see illustration).
30 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
21 Steering column (power
steering) -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Warning: Handle the air bag
with extreme care as a
precaution against personal
injury, and always hold it with
the cover facing away from your body. If in
doubt concerning any proposed work
involving the air bag or its control circuitry,
consult a Ford dealer or other qualified
specialist.
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). Warning: Before proceeding,
wait a minimum of 15 minutes,
as a precaution against
accidental firing of the air bag.
This period ensures that any stored energy
in the back-up capacitor is dissipated.
2 Undo the screws, and remove the steering
column lower shroud.
3 Undo the two external screws and the two
internal screws and remove the steering
column upper shroud.
4 Turn the steering wheel as necessary so
10•14 Suspension and steering
20.29 Steering rack-to-column
engagement
A Steering rack pinion splined shaft
B Annular groove to ensure correct location of pinch-bolt
C Pinch-bolt
D Lower steering shaft universal joint
20.9 Pinch-bolt securing lower steering
shaft universal joint to pinion splined shaft (arrowed)
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