1989 FORD FIESTA dead battery

connecting rods (after removing the cylinder
head and sump) without removing the engine.
However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly
completed with the engine on the bench, as
described in Chapter 2D.
2 Compression test-
description and interpretation
2
1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
engine’s condition. If the test is performed
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
any other symptoms become apparent.
2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to
normal operating temperature, the oil level
must be correct and the battery must be fully
charged. The aid of an assistant will also be
required.
3 On fuel injection engines, refer to Chap-
ter 12 and remove the fuel pump fuse from the
fusebox. Now start the engine and allow it to
run until it stalls.
4 Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the multi-plug from the DIS or
E-DIS ignition coil. Remove all the spark plugs
with reference to Chapter 1 if necessary.
5 Fit a compression tester to the No 1
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester
which screws into the plug thread is to be
preferred.
6 Arrange for an assistant to hold the
accelerator pedal fully depressed to the floor,
while at the same time cranking the engine
over for several seconds on the starter motor.
Observe the compression gauge reading. The
compression will build up fairly quickly in a
healthy engine. Low compression on the first
stroke, followed by gradually-increasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression on the
first stroke which does not rise on successive
strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown
head gasket (a cracked cylinder head could
also be the cause). Deposits on the underside
of the valve heads can also cause low
compression. Record the highest gauge
reading obtained, then repeat the procedure
for the remaining cylinders.
7 Due to the variety of testers available, and
the fluctuation in starter motor speed when
cranking the engine, different readings
are often obtained when carrying out
the compression test. For this reason, actual
compression pressure figures are not quoted
by Ford. However, the most important factor
is that the compression pressures are uniform
in all cylinders, and that is what this test is
mainly concerned with.
8 Add some engine oil (about three squirts
from a plunger type oil can) to each cylinder
through the spark plug holes, and then repeat
the test. 9
If the compression increases after the oil is
added, it is indicative that the piston rings are
definitely worn. If the compression does not
increase significantly, the leakage is occurring
at the valves or the head gasket. Leakage
past the valves may be caused by burned
valve seats and/or faces, or warped, cracked
or bent valves.
10 If two adjacent cylinders have equally low
compressions, it is most likely that the head
gasket has blown between them. The
appearance of coolant in the combustion
chambers or on the engine oil dipstick would
verify this condition.
11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
than the other, and the engine has a slightly
rough idle, a worn lobe on the camshaft could
be the cause.
12 On completion of the checks, refit the
spark plugs and reconnect the HT leads and
the ignition coil plug. Refit the fuel pump fuse
to the fusebox.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating
2
1Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC
position at the end of its compression stroke,
and then again at the end of its exhaust
stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC
at the end of the compression stroke for No 1
piston is used. On the HCS engine, No 1
cylinder is at the crankshaft pulley/timing
chain end of the engine. Proceed as follows.
2 Ensure that the ignition is switched off.
Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs,
then unscrew and remove the plugs as
described in Chapter 1.
3 Turn the engine over by hand (using a
spanner on the crankshaft pulley) to the point
where the timing mark on the crankshaft
pulley aligns with the TDC (0) mark or TDC
reference pointer on the timing cover (see
illustration) . As the pulley mark nears the
timing mark, the No 1 piston is simultaneously
approaching the top of its cylinder. To ensure
that it is on its compression stroke, place a
finger over the No 1 cylinder plug hole, and feel to ensure that air pressure exits from the
cylinder as the piston reaches the top of its
stroke.
4
A further check to ensure that the piston is
on its compression stroke can be made by
first removing the air cleaner (refer to the
relevant Part of Chapter 4), then unbolting and
removing the rocker cover, so that the
movement of the valves and rockers can be
observed.
5 With the TDC timing marks on the
crankshaft pulley and timing cover in
alignment, rock the crankshaft back and forth
a few degrees each side of this position, and
observe the action of the valves and rockers
for No 1 cylinder. When No 1 piston is at the
TDC firing position, the inlet and exhaust valve
of No 1 cylinder will be fully closed, but the
corresponding valves of No 4 cylinder will be
seen to rock open and closed.
6 If the inlet and exhaust valves of No 1
cylinder are seen to rock whilst those of
No 4 cylinder are shut, the crankshaft will
need to be turned one full rotation to bring
No 1 piston up to the top of its cylinder on the
compression stroke.
7 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at
TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any
of the other cylinders can then be located by
rotating the crankshaft clockwise (in its
normal direction of rotation), 180º at a time,
and following the firing order (see
Specifications).
4 Cylinder head rocker cover -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Where necessary for access, remove the air
cleaner as described in the relevant Part of
Chapter 4.
2 Detach the HT leads from the spark plugs.
Pull on the connector of each lead (not the
lead itself), and note the order of fitting.
3 Remove the engine oil filler cap and
breather hose (where fitted).
4 Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the
rocker cover clear of the cylinder head.
Remove the gasket.
HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3
3.3 Timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligned with the TDC (0) mar\
k on the timing cover
2A
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fitted with three piston rings: two
compression rings and an oil control ring.
After manufacture, the cylinder bores and
piston skirts are measured and classified into
three grades, which must be carefully
matched together, to ensure the correct
piston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes are
available to permit reboring.The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by coil springs; they operate in guides
which are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head,
as are the valve seat inserts. Both camshafts are driven by the same
toothed timing belt, each operating eight
valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets,
thus eliminating the need for routine checking
and adjustment of the valve clearances. Each
camshaft rotates in five bearings that are line-
bored directly in the cylinder head and the
(bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that the
bearing caps are not available separately from
the cylinder head, and must not be
interchanged with caps from another engine. The water pump is bolted to the right-hand
end of the cylinder block, inboard of the
timing belt, and is driven with the power
steering pump and alternator by a flat
“polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from the
crankshaft pulley.
When working on this engine, note that
Torx-type (both male and female heads) and
hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are
widely used; a good selection of bits, with the
necessary adapters, will be required, so that
these can be unscrewed without damage and,
on reassembly, tightened to the torque
wrench settings specified. Lubrication is by means of an eccentric-
rotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted on
the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil
through a strainer located in the sump. The
pump forces oil through an externally-
mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on
some versions of the engine, an oil cooler is
fitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean oil
entering the engine’s galleries is cooled by the
main engine cooling system.
Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car
The following work can be carried out with
the engine in the car:
a) Compression pressure - testing.
b) Cylinder head cover - removal and
refitting.
c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.
d) Timing belt - renewal.
e) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal and refitting.
f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal.
g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal and refitting.
h) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
i) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising.
j) Sump - removal and refitting.
k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
l) Oil pump - removal and refitting. m)
Flywheel/driveplate - removal and
refitting.
n) Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting.
Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and
connecting rods (after removing the cylinder
head and sump) without removing the engine.
However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly
completed with the engine on the bench, as
described in Chapter 2D.
2 Compression test -
description and interpretation
2
Refer to Section 2 in Part A of this Chapter.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating
2
1Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC
position at the end of its compression stroke,
and then again at the end of its exhaust
stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC
on the compression stroke for No 1 piston is
used. No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of
the engine. Proceed as follows.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the right-hand roadwheel.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley
and timing marks.
5 Fit a spanner onto the crankshaft pulley
bolt, and turn the crankshaft in its normal
direction of rotation (clockwise, viewed from
the pulley end). 6
Note the two pairs of notches in the inner
and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the
normal direction of crankshaft rotation the first
pair of notches are irrelevant to the vehicles
covered in this manual, while the second pair
indicate TDC when aligned with the rear edge
of the raised mark on the sump. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise until the second pair of
notches align with the edge of the sump mark;
use a straight edge extended out from the
sump if greater accuracy is required (see
illustrations) .
7 Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC, one
of them on the compression stroke. Remove
the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinder exhaust cam
lobe is pointing to the rear of the vehicle and
slightly downwards, it is No 1 cylinder that is
correctly positioned. If the lobe is pointing
horizontally forwards, rotate the crankshaft
one full turn (360º) clockwise until the pulley
notches align again, and the lobe is pointing
to the rear and slightly down. No 1 cylinder
will then be at TDC on the compression
stroke.
8 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at
TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any
of the other cylinders can then be located by
rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180º at a
time and following the firing order (see
Specifications).
9 With the engine set at No 1 piston on TDC
compression, refit the drivebelt cover and the
roadwheel, then lower the vehicle and refit the
spark plugs.
4 Cylinder head cover -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air inlet components as
necessary for access as described in the
Chapter 4D.
3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
4 On models equipped with power steering,
release the high pressure fluid pipe from the
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•3
3.6b . . . use a straight edge extended out from the sump (arrowed) if greater
accuracy is required3.6a Do not use crankshaft pulley’s first
pair of notches “A” - align second pair of
notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .
2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.
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1 General information,precautions and battery
disconnection
General information
The engine electrical system consists
mainly of the charging and starting systems.
Because of their engine-related functions,
these components are covered separately
from the body electrical devices such as the
lights, instruments, etc (which are covered in
Chapter 12). Information on the ignition
system is covered in Part B of this Chapter.
The electrical system is of the 12-volt
negative earth type. The battery is of the low maintenance or
“maintenance-free” (sealed for life) type and is
charged by the alternator, which is belt-driven
from the crankshaft pulley. The starter motor is of the pre-engaged
type incorporating an integral solenoid. On
starting, the solenoid moves the drive pinion
into engagement with the flywheel ring gear
before the starter motor is energised. Once
the engine has started, a one-way clutch
prevents the motor armature being driven by
the engine until the pinion disengages from
the flywheel.
Precautions
Further details of the various systems are
given in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.
While some repair procedures are given, the
usual course of action is to renew the
component concerned. The owner whose
interest extends beyond mere component
renewal should obtain a copy of the
“Automobile Electrical & Electronic Systems
Manual” , available from the publishers of this
manual. It is necessary to take extra care when
working on the electrical system to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistors), and to avoid the risk of
personal injury. In addition to the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this
manual, observe the following when working
on the system:
Always remove rings, watches, etc before
working on the electrical system. Even with
the battery disconnected, capacitive
discharge could occur if a component’s live
terminal is earthed through a metal object.
This could cause a shock or nasty burn. Do not reverse the battery connections.
Components such as the alternator, electronic
control units, or any other components having
semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably
damaged. If the engine is being started using jump
leads and a slave battery, connect the
batteries positive-to-positive and negative-to-
negative (see “Jump starting” ). This also
applies when connecting a battery charger.
Never disconnect the battery terminals, the
alternator, any electrical wiring or any test instruments when the engine is running.
Do not allow the engine to turn the
alternator when the alternator is not
connected. Never “test” for alternator output by
“flashing” the output lead to earth.
Never use an ohmmeter of the type
incorporating a hand-cranked generator for
circuit or continuity testing.
Always ensure that the battery negative lead
is disconnected when working on the
electrical system. Before using electric-arc welding
equipment on the car, disconnect the battery,
alternator and components such as the fuel
injection/ignition electronic control unit to
protect them from the risk of damage.
Battery disconnection
Several systems fitted to the vehicle require
battery power to be available at all times, either
to ensure that their continued operation (such as
the clock) or to maintain control unit memories
(such as that in the engine management
system’s ECU) which would be wiped if the
battery were to be disconnected. Whenever the
battery is to be disconnected therefore, first note
the following, to ensure that there are no
unforeseen consequences of this action:
a) First, on any vehicle with central locking, it is a wise precaution to remove the key
from the ignition, and to keep it with you,
so that it does not get locked in, if the
central locking should engage accidentally
when the battery is reconnected.
b) On cars equipped with an engine
management system, the system’s ECU will
lose the information stored in its memory -
referred to by Ford as the “KAM” (Keep-
Alive Memory) - when the battery is
disconnected. This includes idling and
operating values, and any fault codes
detected - in the case of the fault codes, if
it is thought likely that the system has
developed a fault for which the
corresponding code has been logged, the
vehicle must be taken to a Ford dealer for
the codes to be read, using the special
diagnostic equipment necessary for this.
Whenever the battery is disconnected, the
information relating to idle speed control
and other operating values will have to be
re-programmed into the unit’s memory.
The ECU does this by itself, but until then,
there may be surging, hesitation, erratic idle
and a generally inferior level of
performance. To allow the ECU to relearn
these values, start the engine and run it as
close to idle speed as possible until it
reaches its normal operating temperature,
then run it for approximately two minutes at
1200 rpm. Next, drive the vehicle as far as
necessary - approximately 5 miles of varied
driving conditions is usually sufficient - to
complete the relearning process.
c) If the battery is disconnected while the alarm system is armed or activated, the
alarm will remain in the same state when the battery is reconnected. The same
applies to the engine immobiliser system
(where fitted).
d) If a Ford “Keycode” audio unit is fitted,
and the unit and/or the battery is
disconnected, the unit will not function
again on reconnection until the correct
security code is entered. Details of this
procedure, which varies according to the
unit and model year, are given in the
“Ford Audio Systems Operating Guide”
supplied with the vehicle when new, with
the code itself being given in a “Radio
Passport” and/or a “Keycode Label” at
the same time. Ensure you have the
correct code before you disconnect the
battery. For obvious security reasons, the
procedure is not given in this manual. If
you do not have the code or details of the
correct procedure, but can supply proof
of ownership and a legitimate reason for
wanting this information, the vehicle’s
selling dealer may be able to help.
Devices known as “memory-savers” (or
“code-savers”) can be used to avoid some of
the above problems. Precise details vary
according to the device used. Typically, it is
plugged into the cigarette lighter, and is
connected by its own wires to a spare battery;
the vehicle’s own battery is then disconnected
from the electrical system, leaving the
“memory-saver” to pass sufficient current to
maintain audio unit security codes and ECU
memory values, and also to run permanently-
live circuits such as the clock, all the while
isolating the battery in the event of a short-
circuit occurring while work is carried out.
Warning: Some of these devices
allow a considerable amount of
current to pass, which can mean
that many of the vehicle’s
systems are still operational when the
main battery is disconnected. If a
“memory-saver” is used, ensure that the
circuit concerned is actually “dead” before
carrying out any work on it!
2 Electrical fault finding - general information
Refer to Chapter 12.
3 Battery -testing and charging
1
Standard and low maintenance
battery - testing
1If the vehicle covers a small annual mileage,
it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity
of the electrolyte every three months to
determine the state of charge of the battery.
Use a hydrometer to make the check and
compare the results with the following table.
5A•2 Starting and charging systems
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