1989 FORD FIESTA maintenance reset

The seal ring must be renewed whenever the
pump/sender unit is withdrawn from the tank.
Refitting
4Refit in the reverse order of removal. Lightly
coat the new unit seal ring with grease to ease
fitting, and ensure that the seal is not
distorted as the unit is fitted into position.
Insert the unit so that the lug of the unit is in
engagement with the slot in the tank aperture,
then turn the unit to lock and secure.
10 Fuel tank ventilation tube -
removal and refitting
3
Refer to Part A, Section 10, but note that on
models with evaporative emission control, the
ventilation tube connects to the combined
roll-over/anti-trickle-fill valve assembly but,
instead of venting to atmosphere, a further
tube runs the length of the vehicle to a carbon
canister in the front right-hand corner of the
engine compartment. Further information on the evaporative
emission control system is contained in Part E
of this Chapter.
11 Fuel tank filler pipe -
removal and refitting
3
Refer to Part A, Section 11.
12 Fuel cut-off switch -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the left-hand sill scuff plate as
described in Chapter 11, Section 42. 3
Undo the retaining screws and withdraw the
cut-off (inertia) switch and bracket assembly.
As it is withdrawn, disconnect the wiring multi-
plug from the switch (see illustrations).
4 The switch may be separated from the
bracket by removing the two securing screws.
Refitting
5 Reconnect the wiring multi-plug to the
switch, ensuring that it is felt to snap securely
into position.
6 Refit the switch to the bracket then relocate
the bracket, and refit the screw to secure it.
7 Reset the switch by pushing the top button
down, then refit the sill scuff plate.
8 Reconnect the battery and restart the
engine to ensure that the switch has reset.
13 Fuel injection system -
checking
3
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding. If a fault appears in the fuel injection
system, first ensure that all the system wiring
connectors are securely connected and free
of corrosion. Ensure that the fault is not due to
poor maintenance; ie, check that the air
cleaner filter element is clean, the spark plugs
are in good condition and correctly gapped,
the valve clearances are correctly adjusted
(where adjustable), the cylinder compression
pressures are correct, the ignition timing is
correct (where adjustable), and that the
engine breather hoses are clear and
undamaged, referring to Chapters 1, 2 and 5
for further information. If these checks fail to reveal the cause of
the problem, the vehicle should be taken to a
suitably-equipped Ford dealer for testing. A
wiring block connector is incorporated in the
engine management circuit, into which a
special electronic diagnostic tester can be
plugged. The tester will locate the fault quickly
and simply, alleviating the need to test all the system components individually, which is a
time-consuming operation that also carries a
risk of damaging the EEC IV engine
management module.
14 Fuel injection system
components -
removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Fuel injector
1 Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel
system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap.
Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the engine
to run - remember that fuel will
still be present in the system components,
and take precautions accordingly before
disconnecting any of them.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Refer to Section 4 and remove the air
cleaner.
4 Release the injector feed wiring multi-plug,
and detach it from the injector (pulling on the
plug - not the wire) (see illustration).
Fuel system - central fuel injection engines 4B•5
12.3b . . . and disconnect the multi-plug as it is withdrawn. Switch
to bracket retaining screws (arrowed)12.3a Remove the screw securing the inertia switch bracket . . .
14.4 Disconnect the multi-plug from the injector
4B
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1 General information
The bodyshell and underframe on all
models is of all-steel welded construction,
incorporating progressive crumple zones at
the front and rear, and a rigid centre safety
cell. The body styles available include three-
door, five-door, Van and Courier
configurations. A multi-stage anti-corrosion process is
applied to all new vehicles. This includes zinc
phosphating on some panels, the injection of
wax into boxed sections, and a wax and PVC
coating applied to the underbody for its
protection. Inertia reel seat belts are fitted to all
models, and from the 1994 model year
onwards, the front seat belt stalks are
mounted on automatic mechanical tensioners
(also known as “grabbers”). In the event of a
serious front impact, a spring mass sensor
releases a coil spring which pulls the stalk
buckle downwards and tensions the seat belt.
It is not possible to reset the tensioner once
fired, and it must therefore be renewed. Central locking is a standard or optional
fitment on all models. Where double-locking is
also fitted, the lock mechanism is
disconnected (when the system is in use) from
the interior door handles, making it impossible
to open any of the doors or the tailgate from
inside the vehicle. This means that, even if a
thief should break a side window, it will not be
possible to open the door using the interior
handle.
2 Maintenance -
bodywork and underframe
1
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment. The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Oddly enough,
the best time to clean the underframe and
wheel arches is in wet weather, when the mud
is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at
many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to become thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
Note that these methods should not be used
on vehicles with wax-based underbody
protective coating, or the coating will be
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
annually, preferably just prior to Winter, when
the underbody should be washed down, and
any damage to the wax coating repaired.
Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be
applied. It would also be worth considering
the use of such wax-based protection for
injection into door panels, sills, box sections,
etc, as an additional safeguard against rust
damage, where such protection is not
provided by the vehicle manufacturer. After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish
will give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish. Always check that
the door and ventilator opening drain holes
and pipes are completely clear, so that water
can be drained out .Brightwork should be
treated in the same way as paintwork.
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear
of the smeary film which often appears, by the
use of proprietary glass cleaner. Never use
any form of wax or other body or chromium
polish on glass.
3 Maintenance -
upholstery and carpets
1
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot.
Note
:
If the inside of the vehicle gets wet
accidentally, it is worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly, particularly
where carpets are involved .
Warning: Do not leave oil or
electric heaters inside the
vehicle for this purpose.
4 Minor body damage-
repair
3
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water. Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish. Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface
of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
11•2 Bodywork and fittings
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