1989 FORD FIESTA seats

bench, with a block of wood at each end to
give clearance for the valve stems.
15Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade
of) valve-grinding compound on the seat face,
and press a suction grinding tool onto the
valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind
the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve
occasionally to redistribute the grinding
compound (see illustration) . A light spring
placed under the valve head will greatly ease
this operation.
16 If coarse grinding compound is being
used, work only until a dull, matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, then wipe off the used compound, and
repeat the process with fine compound. When
a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
finish is produced on both the valve and seat,
the grinding operation is complete. Do not
grind in the valves any further than absolutely
necessary, or the seat will be prematurely
sunk into the cylinder head.
17 When all the valves have been ground-in,
carefully wash off alltraces of grinding
compound, using paraffin or a suitable
solvent, before reassembly of the cylinder
head.
Valve components
18 Examine the valve springs for signs of
damage and discolouration, and also measure
their free length (see illustration) . If possible,
compare each of the existing springs with a
new component.
19 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and
check it for squareness. If any of the springs are damaged, distorted, or have lost their
tension, obtain a complete set of new springs.
20
Check the spring upper seats and collets
for obvious wear and cracks. Any
questionable parts should be renewed, as
extensive damage will occur if they fail during
engine operation. Any damaged or
excessively-worn parts must be renewed; the
valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals must be
renewed as a matter of course whenever they
are disturbed.
21 Check the rocker gear components and
hydraulic tappets as described in earlier parts
of this Chapter according to engine type.
9 Cylinder head - reassembly
4
1Before reassembling the cylinder head, first
ensure that it is perfectly clean, and that no
traces of grinding paste are left in the head or
on the valves and guides. Use compressed
air, if available, to blow out all the oil holes and
passages.
2 Commence reassembly of the cylinder
head by lubricating the valve stems and
guides with clean engine oil.
HCS engines
3 Insert the first valve into its guide. Wipe the
oil from the top of the valve stem, then wind
some insulation tape over the split collet
location groove, to protect the new valve stem
seal as it is fitted over the valve and into position. As the seal is fitted, support the
valve to prevent it from falling out; push the
seal down the valve, and locate it flush to the
valve guide. Press the seal down firmly and
evenly using a suitable diameter tube or
socket, and take care not to distort the seal as
it is located. Check that the seal spring is
correctly located to ensure that it seals
correctly, then remove the tape from the valve
stem (see illustrations)
.
4 Locate the valve spring and its retainer over
the valve stem, and engage the valve spring
compressor. Compress the spring and
retainer just enough to allow the split collets
to be inserted in the location groove in the
valve stem. Holding the collets in position,
slowly release and remove the valve spring
compressor.
5 Repeat the operation on the remaining
valves, ensuring that each valve is fitted in its
appropriate location.
6 On completion, support the cylinder head
on a suitable piece of wood, and lightly strike
the end of each valve stem in turn with a
plastic- or copper-faced hammer to
fractionally open the valve and seat the valve
components.CVH and PTE engines
7 Working on one valve at a time, fit the lower
retainer into position (see illustration).
8 Check for correct orientation, then fit the
new oil seal into position over the guide. Drive
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•15
9.3a Tape the end of the valve stem before fitting the valve stem seal
8.18 Checking the valve spring free length8.15 Grinding-in a valve seat
9.7 Fit the lower retainer9.3b Press the seal into position using a suitable socket
2D
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
A little grease applied to the collet
groove will help retain them in position.
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necessary for reassembly of the engine are at
hand. In addition to all normal tools and
materials, jointing and thread locking
compound will be needed during engine
reassembly. For general-purpose applications,
it is recommended that Loctite 275 setting
sealer or Hylomar PL32M non-setting sealer
be used for joints where required, and
Loctite 270 for stud and bolt thread-locking.
For specific applications on Zetec engines,
Hylosil 102 for the cylinder block/crankcase-
to-sump/oil pump/oil seal carrier joints, and
Loctite 518 for the camshaft right-hand
bearing caps should be used. These are
recommended by, and obtained from, Ford
dealers. In all other cases, provided the
relevant mating surfaces are clean and flat,
new gaskets will be sufficient to ensure joints
are oil-tight. Do notuse any kind of silicone-
based sealant on any part of the fuel system or
inlet manifold, and neveruse exhaust sealants
upstream of the catalytic converter.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly can be carried out in the
following order (as applicable).
a) Engine ventilation cap (CVH and PTE engines).
b) Tappets and camshaft (HCS engines).
c) Crankshaft and main bearings.
d) Pistons and connecting rods.
e) Oil pump.
f) Sump.
g) Flywheel/driveplate.
h) Cylinder head.
i) Timing sprockets and chain/belt.
j) Engine external components.
3 Ensure that everything is clean prior to
reassembly. As mentioned previously, dirt and
metal particles can quickly destroy bearings
and result in major engine damage. Use clean
engine oil to lubricate during reassembly.
16 Piston rings - refitting
2
1Before installing new piston rings, check
the end gaps. Lay out each piston set with a
piston/connecting rod assembly, and keep them together as a matched set from now on.
2
Insert the top compression ring into the first
cylinder, and square it up with the cylinder
walls by pushing it in with the top of the
piston. The ring should be near the bottom of
the cylinder, at the lower limit of ring travel.
3 To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges
between the ends of the ring, until a gauge
equal to the gap width is found. The feeler
gauge should slide between the ring ends
with a slight amount of drag. Compare the
measurement to the value given in the
Specifications in this Chapter; if the gap is
larger or smaller than specified, double-check to make sure you have the correct rings
before proceeding. If you are assessing the
condition of used rings, have the cylinder
bores checked and measured by a Ford
dealer or similar engine reconditioning
specialist, so that you can be sure of exactly
which component is worn, and seek advice as
to the best course of action to take.
4 If the end gap is still too small, it must be
opened up by careful filing of the ring ends
using a fine file. If it is too large, this is not as
serious, unless the specified limit is exceeded,
in which case very careful checking is
required of the dimensions of all components,
as well as of the new parts.
5 Repeat the procedure for each ring that will
be installed in the first cylinder, and for each
ring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to
keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
6 Refit the piston rings as follows. Where the
original rings are being refitted, use the marks
or notes made on removal, to ensure that
each ring is refitted to its original groove and
the same way up. New rings generally have
their top surfaces identified by markings
(often an indication of size, such as “STD”, or
the word “TOP”) - the rings must be fitted with
such markings uppermost (see illustration) .
Note: Always follow the instructions printed
on the ring package or box - different
manufacturers may require different
approaches. Do not mix up the top and
second compression rings, as they usually
have different cross-sections.
7 The oil control ring (lowest one on the
piston) is usually installed first. It is composed
of three separate elements. Slip the
spacer/expander into the groove. If an
anti- rotation tang is used, make sure it is
inserted into the drilled hole in the ring groove.
Next, install the lower side rail. Don’t use a
piston ring installation tool on the oil ring side
rails, as they may be damaged. Instead, place
one end of the side rail into the groove
between the spacer/expander and the ring
land, hold it firmly in place, and slide a finger
around the piston while pushing the rail into
the groove. Next, install the upper side rail in
the same manner.
8 After the three oil ring components have
been installed, check that both the upper and
lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the
ring groove.
9 The second compression (middle) ring is installed next, followed by the top
compression ring - ensure their marks are
uppermost, and be careful not to confuse
them. Don’t expand either ring any more than
necessary to slide it over the top of the piston.
10
On HCS engines, when all of the rings are
fitted to each piston, arrange them so that the
gaps are positioned as described in the
Specifications at the start of this Chapter.
11 On the CVH and PTE engines, when all of
the rings are fitted to each piston, arrange
them so that the gaps are spaced at 120º
intervals, with no gaps positioned above the
gudgeon pin hole.
12 On Zetec engines, when all the rings are
fitted to each piston, space the ring gaps
(including the elements of the oil control ring)
uniformly around the piston at 120º intervals.
17 Crankshaft - refitting and
main bearing running
clearance check
4
1 It is assumed at this point that the cylinder
block/crankcase and crankshaft have been
cleaned, inspected and repaired or
reconditioned as necessary. Position the
engine upside-down.
2 Remove the main bearing cap bolts, and lift
out the caps. Lay the caps out in the proper
order, to ensure correct installation.
3 If they’re still in place, remove the old
bearing shells from the block and the main
bearing caps. Wipe the bearing recesses of
the block and caps with a clean, lint-free
cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean!
Main bearing running clearance
check
HCS engines
4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
bearing shells. Insert the respective upper
shells (dry) into position in the crankcase.
Note that the upper shells have grooves in
them (the lower shells are plain, and have a
wider location lug). Where the old main
bearings are being refitted, ensure that they
are located in their original positions. Make
sure that the tab on each bearing shell fits into
the notch in the block or cap.
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into
place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing
faces. No lubrication should be used at
this time.
5 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers into
position in the crankcase, so that their oil
grooves are facing outwards (away from the
central web) (see illustration) .
CVH and PTE engines
6Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
bearing shells. Insert the respective upper
shells (dry) into position in the crankcase.
Note that with the exception of the front main
bearing, the upper shells have grooves in
2D•22 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
16.6 Look for etched markings (“STD” -
indicating a standard-sized ring - shown
here) identifying piston ring top surface
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them (the lower half bearings are plain). The
upper and lower front shells are narrower in
section, and both have an oil groove in them.
Where the old main bearings are being
refitted, ensure that they are located in their
original positions (see illustration). Make sure
that the tab on each bearing shell fits into the
notch in the block or cap.
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into
place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing
faces. No lubrication should be used at
this time.
7 Relocate the crankcase ventilation cap and
its retaining spring into position in the
crankcase (see illustration) .
8 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers into
position in the crankcase so that their oil
grooves are facing outwards (away from the
central web).
Zetec engines
9 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
new main bearing shells. Fit the shells with an
oil groove in each main bearing location in the
block; note the thrustwashers integral with the
No 3 (centre) main bearing upper shell. Fit the
other shell from each bearing set in the
corresponding main bearing cap. Make sure
the tab on each bearing shell fits into the
notch in the block or cap. Also, the oil holes in the block must line up with the oil holes in the
bearing shell
(see illustration) .
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into
place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing
faces. No lubrication should be used at
this time.
All engines
10 Clean the bearing surfaces of the shells in
the block, and the crankshaft main bearing
journals with a clean, lint-free cloth. Check or
clean the oil holes in the crankshaft, as any
dirt here can go only one way - straight
through the new bearings.
11 Once you’re certain the crankshaft is
clean, carefully lay it in position in the main
bearings. Trim several pieces of the
appropriate-size Plastigauge (they must be
slightly shorter than the width of the main
bearings), and place one piece on each
crankshaft main bearing journal, parallel with
the crankshaft centre-line (see illustration).
12 Clean the bearing surfaces of the cap
shells, and install the caps in their respective
positions (don’t mix them up) with the arrows
pointing to the timing chain/belt end of the
engine. Don’t disturb the Plastigauge.
13 Working on one cap at a time, from the
centre main bearing outwards (and ensuring
that each cap is tightened down squarely and
evenly onto the block), tighten the main
bearing cap bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. Don’t rotate the crankshaft at
any time during this operation!
14
Remove the bolts, and carefully lift off the
main bearing caps. Keep them in order. Don’t
disturb the Plastigauge or rotate the
crankshaft. If any of the main bearing caps are
difficult to remove, tap them gently from
side-to-side with a soft-faced mallet to loosen
them.
15 Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigauge on each journal with the scale
printed on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain
the main bearing running clearance (see
illustration) . Check the Specifications to
make sure that the clearance is correct.
16 If the clearance is not as specified, seek
the advice of a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft
journals are in good condition, it may be
possible simply to renew the shells to achieve
the correct clearance. If this is not possible,
the crankshaft must be reground by a
specialist who can supply the necessary
undersized shells. First though, make sure
that no dirt or oil was between the bearing
shells and the caps or block when the
clearance was measured. If the Plastigauge is
noticeably wider at one end than the other,
the journal may be tapered.
17 Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigauge material off the main bearing
journals and the bearing surfaces. Be very
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•23
17.7 Fit the crankcase ventilation cap and its retaining spring17.6 Fit the bearing shells to the mainbearing housings in the crankcase
17.15 Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigauge to the scale on the envelope to determine the main bearing running
clearance17.11 Lay the Plastigauge strips (arrowed)on the main bearing journals, parallel to the crankshaft centre-line17.9 Tab on each bearing shell must
engage with notch in block or cap, and oil
holes in upper shells must align with block
oilways
2D
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
17.5 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers
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Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Thermostat housing to cylinder head: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 9 7
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
Water outlet to thermostat housing (Zetec engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
Water pump pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 107.5
Water pump retaining bolts: HCS, CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 1813
Coolant temperature gauge sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4
Coolant temperature sensor: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 2317
CVH engines: 1.4 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 1914
1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 1511
PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1511
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 1511
Radiator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 20 to 27 15 to 20
Radiator cooling fan shroud retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 to 5 2 to 4
Radiator cooling fan motor to shroud nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
Automatic transmission fluid cooling pipe connections to radiator . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information and
precautions
Engine cooling system
The cooling system is of the pressurised
type consisting of a belt-driven pump,
aluminium crossflow radiator, expansion tank,
electric cooling fan and a thermostat. The
system functions as follows. Cold coolant in
the bottom of the radiator passes through the
bottom hose to the water pump, where it is
pumped around the cylinder block and head
passages. After cooling the cylinder bores,
combustion surfaces and valve seats, the
coolant reaches the underside of the
thermostat, which is initially closed. The
coolant passes through the heater and
inlet manifold and is returned to the water
pump. When the engine is cold, the coolant
circulates through the cylinder block, cylinder
head, heater and inlet manifold. When the
coolant reaches a predetermined tempera-
ture, the thermostat opens, and the coolant
then passes through the top hose to
the radiator. As the coolant circulates
through the radiator, it is cooled by the inrush
of air when the car is in forward motion.
Airflow is supplemented by the action of the
electric cooling fan when necessary. Upon
reaching the bottom of the radiator, the
coolant is now cooled, and the cycle is
repeated. When the engine is at normal operating
temperature, the coolant expands, and some
of it is displaced into the expansion tank. This
coolant collects in the tank, and is returned to
the radiator when the system cools.
The electric cooling fan, mounted behind
the radiator, is controlled by a thermostatic switch. At a predetermined coolant
temperature, the switch contacts close, thus
actuating the fan.
Heating/ventilation system
The heating system consists of a blower fan
and heater matrix (radiator) located in the
heater unit, with hoses connecting the heater
matrix to the engine cooling system. Hot
engine coolant is circulated through the
heater matrix. Air is forced through the matrix
by the three-speed fan, dispersing the heat
into the vehicle interior. Fresh air enters the
vehicle through the grille slats between the
windscreen and the rear edge of the bonnet,
and passes through to the heater casing.
Depending on the position of the heater slide
controls, which actuate cable-controlled flap
valves within the heater casing, the air is
distributed, either heated or unheated, via the
ducting to outlet vents. The main outlet vents
in the facia are adjustable. The airflow passes
through the passenger compartment to exit at
the rear of the vehicle.
Precautions
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank filler
cap, or to disturb any part of the
cooling system, while it or the
engine is hot, as there is a very great risk
of scalding. If the expansion tank filler cap
must be removed before the engine and
radiator have fully cooled down (even
though this is not recommended) the
pressure in the cooling system must first
be released. Cover the cap with a thick
layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly
unscrew the filler cap until a hissing sound
can be heard. When the hissing has
stopped, showing that pressure is
released, slowly unscrew the filler cap
further until it can be removed; if more
hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap
completely. At all times, keep well away
from the filler opening.
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin, or with the painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off
spills immediately with plenty of water.
Never leave antifreeze lying around in an
open container, or in a puddle in the
driveway or on the garage floor. Children
and pets are attracted by its sweet smell,
but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested. Warning: If the engine is hot, the
electric cooling fan may start
rotating even if the engine is not
running, so be careful to keep
hands, hair and loose clothing well clear
when working in the engine compartment.
2 Antifreeze -
general information
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before proceeding. The cooling system should be filled with a
water/ethylene glycol-based antifreeze
solution, of a strength which will prevent
freezing down to at least -25ºC, or lower if the
local climate requires it. Antifreeze also
provides protection against corrosion, and
increases the coolant boiling point. The cooling system should be maintained
according to the schedule described in
Chapter 1. If antifreeze is used that is not to
Ford’s specification, old or contaminated
coolant mixtures are likely to cause damage,
and encourage the formation of corrosion and
scale in the system. Use distilled water with the
antifreeze, if available - if not, be sure to use
only soft water. Clean rainwater is suitable.
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1 General information andprecautions
General information
The fuel system on all models with
carburettor induction comprises a rear-
mounted fuel tank, a mechanical diaphragm
fuel pump, a carburettor and an air cleaner. The fuel tank is mounted at the rear, under
the floorpan behind the rear seats. The tank
has a “ventilation-to-atmosphere system”
through a combined roll-over/anti-trickle fill
valve assembly, located in the left-hand rear
wheel arch. A filler neck sensing pipe, integral
with the fuel tank filler pipe, will shut off the
petrol pump filler gun when the predetermined
maximum level of fuel is reached in the tank,
so preventing spillage and wastage. A
conventional fuel level sender unit is mounted
in the top face of the fuel tank. One of two fuel pump types will be fitted,
depending on the engine type. On HCS
engines, the fuel pump is operated by a
pivoting rocker arm; one end rests on an
eccentric lobe on the engine camshaft, and
the other end is attached to the fuel pump
diaphragm. The pump fitted to the CVH
engine is operated by a separate pushrod,
one end rests on an eccentric lobe on the
engine camshaft, and the other rests on the
pump actuating rod which operates the
diaphragm. Both types of mechanical pump
incorporate a nylon mesh filter, and are of
sealed type (they cannot be serviced or
overhauled). Four different types of Weber carburettor
are featured in the range, further details being
given in later Sections of this Chapter. The air cleaner incorporates a “waxstat”
controlled air inlet, supplying either hot air
from a shroud mounted around the exhaust
manifold, or cool air from a duct in the front of
the vehicle.
Precautions
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable - great care must be
taken when working on any part of the fuel system. Do not smoke or allow
any naked flames or uncovered light bulbs
near the work area. Note that gas powered
domestic appliances with pilot flames,
such as heaters, boilers and tumble
dryers, also present a fire hazard - bear
this in mind if you are working in an area
where such appliances are present.
Always keep a suitable fire extinguisher
close to the work area and familiarise
yourself with its operation before starting
work. Wear eye protection when working
on fuel systems and wash off any fuel spilt
on bare skin immediately with soap and
water. Note that fuel vapour is just as
dangerous as liquid fuel; a vessel that has
just been emptied of liquid fuel will still
contain vapour and can be potentially
explosive. Petrol is a highly dangerous and
volatile liquid, and the precautions
necessary when handling it cannot be
overstressed.
Many of the operations described in this
Chapter involve the disconnection of fuel
lines, which may cause an amount of fuel
spillage. Before commencing work, refer
to the above Warning and the information
in “Safety first” at the beginning of this
manual.
When working with fuel system
components, pay particular attention to
cleanliness - dirt entering the fuel system
may cause blockages which will lead to
poor running.
Certain adjustment points in the fuel system
are protected by tamperproof caps, plugs or
seals. In some territories, it is an offence to
drive a vehicle with broken or missing
tamperproof seals. Before disturbing a
tamperproof seal, first check that no local or
national laws will be broken by doing so, and
fit a new tamperproof seal after adjustment is
complete, where required by law. Do not
break tamperproof seals on any vehicle whilst
it is still under warranty. Carburettors are delicate instruments, and
care must be taken not to disturb any
components unnecessarily. Before attempting
work on a carburettor, ensure that the relevant
spares are available; it should be noted that a complete strip down of a carburettor is
unlikely to cure a fault which is not
immediately obvious, without introducing new
problems. If persistent problems occur, it is
recommended that the services of a Ford
dealer or a carburettor specialist are sought.
Most dealers will be able to provide
carburettor rejetting and servicing facilities.
Where necessary, it may be possible to
purchase a reconditioned carburettor.
2 Air cleaner
-
removal and refitting
1
Note: Air cleaner element renewal and air
cleaner temperature control system checks
are described in Chapter 1.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 On CVH engine models, pull free and
release the accelerator cable from the locating
clip on the side of the air cleaner.
3 Undo the two (HCS engine) or three (CVH
engine) retaining screws, and partially lift the
air cleaner from the carburettor so that the
hose and wiring connections to the underside
of the air cleaner body are accessible (see
illustration) .
4 Note their connections and routings, then
detach the wiring multi-plug and hoses from
the underside of the air cleaner (see
illustrations) . On CVH engines, also
disconnect the vacuum hose from the inlet
manifold.
5 Lift the air cleaner from the carburettor.
6 If required, the inlet air temperature sensor
can be unscrewed and removed from the
base of the air cleaner (where fitted).
Refitting
7 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Renew
any hoses that are perished or cracked, and
ensure that all fittings are securely and
correctly reconnected.
Fuel system – carburettor engines 4A•3
2.4b Disconnecting the intake air temperature sensor multi-plug
(CVH engine shown)2.4a Disconnecting the oil separator/
crankcase ventilation hose from the air
cleaner (CVH engine shown)2.3 Undoing the air cleaner retainingscrews (HCS engine shown)
4A
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16Prise out the tamperproof seal covering
the fuel mixture screw, then undo and remove
the mixture screw.
Cleaning and inspection
17 Wash the carburettor components,
drillings and passages with clean petrol, then
blow them dry using a low-pressure air line. A
high-pressure air line must not be applied to
the accelerator pump discharge assembly or
the pump supply valve, as they each contain a
rubber Vernay valve, and these can easily be
damaged under high pressure. Never use a
piece of wire for cleaning purposes.
18 Examine all of the carburettor
components for signs of damage or wear,
paying particular attention to the diaphragms,
throttle spindle and plates, needle valve and
mixture screw; the power valve jet is adjacent
to the primary main jet. Renew all
diaphragms, sealing washers and gaskets as
a matter of course.
Reassembly
19 Refit the fuel mixture screw by fully
winding the screw in, then unwinding three
turns to give an approximate setting.
20 Refit the power valve assembly ensuring
that the diaphragm lies flat, and that the
vacuum gallery lines up correctly with the
diaphragm and housing.
21 Reassemble the secondary barrel
diaphragm into its housing, ensuring that
the diaphragm lies flat and that the vacuum
gallery lines up with the diaphragm and
housing. Also, to assist with installation, do
not reconnect its operating rod until the cover
has been secured.
22 Refit the throttle kicker mounting bracket.
23 Refit the anti-dieseling (fuel cut-off)
solenoid, using a new sealing washer.
24 Refit the accelerator pump assembly,
ensuring that the diaphragm lies flat and is not
kinked.
25 Reassemble the throttle kicker, ensuring
that the diaphragm lies flat and that the relative position of the diaphragm operating
link to the throttle kicker cover is correct. Fully
attach the throttle kicker assembly.
26
Refit the main and idle jets, making
reference to the notes taken during
dismantling to ensure correct fitted locations.
27 Reassemble the carburettor upper body
as described in the following paragraphs.
28 Refit the needle valve housing (using a
new washer if applicable).
29 Refit the needle valve and float assembly,
having ensured that the float tag locates
below the spring clip on the needle valve.
Insert the float retaining pin to secure.
30 Adjust the float level as follows. Ensuring
that a new gasket is fitted to the carburettor
upper body, hold the upper body in the
vertical position; the needle valve must be
shut off. Measure the distance shown (see
illustration) , and adjust by bending the float
tag if the measurement is outside the
specification. Recheck the float level
adjustment after bending the float tag, as
necessary.
31 Refit the choke pull-down diaphragm,
ensuring that the diaphragm lies flat and that
the vacuum gallery lines up correctly with the
diaphragm and housing (see illustration).
32 Adjust the choke pull-down as follows.
Fully close the choke, then manually push the
diaphragm operating rod up to its stop;
measure the distance between the
downdraught side of the choke plate and the
venturi, using a gauge rod or the shank of a
twist drill bit (of known size). If the
measurement is outside specification, remove
the tamperproof seal from the housing, and
adjust the now revealed adjustment screw
accordingly. Fit a new tamperproof seal after
successful adjustment.
33 Refit the fuel feed filter, and secure with
its brass nut and sealing washer.
34 Refit the carburettor upper body to the
carburettor main body, ensuring that its new
gasket seats correctly and that the float does
not foul during assembly. Insert and tighten
the securing screws. 35
Reconnect any vacuum pipes removed
during dismantling (where applicable).
36 On completion, refit the carburettor as
described in Section 28. Where applicable,
check and adjust the throttle kicker setting
(Section 27) after adjusting the idle speed and
mixture settings.
30 Carburettor (Weber TLD) -
description
This carburettor incorporates many of the
features of the TLDM type described in
Section 18. The main differences are that a
throttle kicker is not used, the secondary
venturi (barrel) is vacuum-operated, and that a
coolant-heated automatic choke control
system is fitted. The choke system is fully automatic. When
the engine is cold, the bi-metal spring which
controls the position of the choke plate is fully
wound up, and holds the plate closed. As the
engine warms up, the bi-metal spring is
heated by the coolant and begins to unwind,
thereby progressively opening the choke
plate. A vacuum-operated pull-down
mechanism controls the choke plate under
certain operating conditions, and an internal
fast-idle system is incorporated. Idle speed and mixture adjustment
procedures are described in Chapter 1, but it
is important to note that accurate adjustments
can only be made using the necessary
equipment.
31 Carburettor (Weber TLD) -
fast-idle speed adjustment
4
Note: Before carrying out any carburettor
adjustments, ensure that the spark plug gaps
are set as specified, and that all electrical and
vacuum connections are secure. To carry out
checks and adjustments, an accurate
Fuel system – carburettor engines 4A•15
29.31 Exploded view of the choke pull-down assembly (Weber DFTM carbur\
ettor)
A Housing B Diaphragm
29.30 Float level adjustment (Weber DFTMcarburettor)
A Float level setting dimension
B Adjusting tag
4A
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1 General information andprecautions
General information
The fuel system consists of a fuel tank
(mounted under the body, beneath the rear
seats), fuel hoses, an electric fuel pump
mounted in the fuel tank, and a central fuel
injection (CFi) system. Fuel is supplied from the tank by an integral
electric fuel pump (and combined fuel gauge
sender unit). The fuel is passed through an in-
line filter within the engine compartment, then
to the fuel injection unit. The fuel is maintained
at the required operating pressure by a
pressure regulator unit. The CFi unit itself is a relatively simple
device when compared with a conventional
carburettor. Fuel is injected by a single
solenoid valve (fuel injector) which is mounted
centrally on top of the unit. It is this feature
which gives the system CFi (or Central Fuel
injection) its name (see illustration).The injector is energised by an electrical
signal sent from the EEC IV engine
management module. When energised, the
injector pintle is lifted from its seat, and
atomised fuel is delivered into the inlet
manifold under pressure. The electrical
signals take two forms of current - a high
current to open the injector, and a low current
to hold it open for the duration required. At
idle speed, the injector is pulsed at every
other inlet stroke, rather than with every
stroke as during normal operation.
The air-to-fuel mixture ratio is regulated by
the EEC IV module, based on inputs from the
various engine sensors. No adjustments to
the fuel mixture are possible.
The throttle plate control motor (mounted
on the side of the CFi unit) regulates the idle
speed by reacting to the signals sent by the
EEC IV module. The signals are calculated by
the values and information provided from the
engine sensors. When the throttle position
sensor indicates that the throttle is closed, the
module enters the idle speed mode or
dashpot mode (according to engine speed).
The module maintains the idle speed at a constant value, making minor adjustments as
necessary for different loads and conditions.
The base idle speed can only be adjusted by a
dealer or fuel injection specialist with the
necessary equipment to link up to the engine
management module.
To prevent the engine from running on (or
dieseling) when it is switched off, the EEC IV
module sends a signal to the throttle plate
control motor, to fully close the throttle plate
and return it to its preset position ready for
restarting. When the ignition is switched on
to restart the engine, the motor repositions
the throttle plate to the position required
according to the prevailing conditions. The EEC IV module is the heart of the entire
engine management system, controlling the
fuel injection, ignition and emissions control
systems. The module receives information
from various sensors to determine engine
temperature, speed and load, and the
quantity of air entering the engine. The
sensors also inform the module of throttle
position, inlet air temperature and exhaust gas
oxygen content. All the information supplied
to the module is computed and compared
with pre-set values stored in it’s memory, to
determine the required period of injection. Information on crankshaft position and
engine speed is generated by the distributor
on pre-1990 CVH engine models, or by a
crankshaft position sensor on all other
models. The inductive head of the crankshaft
position sensor runs just above the engine
flywheel and scans a series of 36 protrusions
on the flywheel periphery. As the crankshaft
rotates, the sensor transmits a pulse to the
system’s ignition module every time a
protrusion passes it. There is one missing
protrusion in the flywheel periphery at a point
corresponding to 90º BTDC. The ignition
module recognises the absence of a pulse
from the crankshaft position sensor at this
point to establish a reference mark for
crankshaft position. Similarly, the time interval
between absent pulses is used to determine
engine speed. This information is then fed to
the EEC IV module for further processing. Engine temperature information is supplied
by the coolant temperature sensor. This
component is an NTC (Negative Temperature
Coefficient) thermistor - that is, a semi-
conductor whose electrical resistance
decreases as its temperature increases. It
provides the EEC IV module with a constantly-
varying (analogue) voltage signal,
corresponding to the temperature of the
engine coolant. This is used to refine the
calculations made by the module, when
determining the correct amount of fuel
required to achieve the ideal air/fuel mixture
ratio. Inlet air temperature information is supplied
by the inlet air temperature sensor. This
component is also an NTC thermistor - see
the previous paragraph - providing the EEC IV
module with a signal corresponding to the
temperature of air passing into the engine.
4B•2 Fuel system - central fuel injection engines
1.3 Exploded view of the CFi unit
1 Fuel injector assembly
2 Fuel pressure regulator
assembly 3 Fuel feed connector
4 Intake air temperature
sensor 5 Throttle-plate control
motor
6 Throttle position sensor
7 Fuel injector wiring
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4 Air cleaner assembly and airinlet components -
removal and refitting
1
Note: Air cleaner element renewal and air
cleaner temperature control system checks
(where applicable) are described in Chapter 1.
Air cleaner assembly
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Undo the retaining bolts and partially lift the
air cleaner from the CFi unit, so that the hose
and wiring connections to the underside of
the air cleaner body are accessible.
3 Note their connections and routings, then
detach the wiring and hoses from the
underside of the air cleaner.
4 Lift the air cleaner clear from the CFi unit.
5 Refit in the reverse order of removal.
6 Renew any hoses that are perished or
cracked, and ensure that all fittings are
securely and correctly reconnected.
Air inlet components
7 The air cleaner inlet spout and related
components are removed with the air cleaner
assembly as described above.
5 Accelerator cable - removal,
refitting and adjustment
1
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Fold back the carpet and insulation in the
driver’s footwell to gain access to the
accelerator pedal.
3 Detach the accelerator cable from the
pedal.
4 Remove the air cleaner assembly as
described in Section 4.
5 Working at the throttle housing end of the
cable, pivot the throttle quadrant by hand to
release the tension from the cable, then
detach the inner cable nipple from the throttle
lever.
6 Detach the outer cable from the
adjuster/support bracket, then remove the
cable.
Refitting and adjustment
7 Refit in the reverse order of removal. When
the cable is reconnected at each end, have an
assistant depress the accelerator, and check
that the throttle fully opens and shuts without
binding. Ensure that there is a small amount of
slack in the inner cable when the throttle is
fully released. If adjustment is required,
release the outer cable retaining clip from the
cable at the adjustment/support bracket, slide
the cable through the adjuster grommet to the
point required, then refit the retaining clip to
secure it in the set position.
6 Accelerator pedal -
removal and refitting
1
Refer to Part A, Section 5.
7 Fuel pump/fuel pressure -
checking
3
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Fuel pump operation check
1 Switch on the ignition, and listen for the fuel
pump (the sound of an electric motor running,
audible from beneath the rear seats). Assuming
there is sufficient fuel in the tank, the pump
should start and run for approximately one or
two seconds, then stop, each time the ignition
is switched on. Note:If the pump runs
continuously all the time the ignition is switched
on, the electronic control system is running in
the backup (or “limp-home”) mode referred to
by Ford as “Limited Operation Strategy” (LOS).
This almost certainly indicates a fault in the
EEC IV module itself, and the vehicle should
therefore be taken to a Ford dealer for a full test
of the complete system, using the correct
diagnostic equipment; do not waste time or risk
damaging the components by trying to test the
system without such facilities.
2 Listen for fuel return noises from the fuel
pressure regulator. It should be possible to
feel the fuel pulsing in the regulator and in the
feed hose from the fuel filter.
3 If the pump does not run at all, check the
fuse, relay and wiring (see Chapter 12). Check
also that the fuel cut-off switch has not been
activated and if so, reset it.
Fuel pressure check
4 A fuel pressure gauge will be required for this
check and should be connected in the fuel line
between the fuel filter and the CFi unit, in
accordance with the gauge maker’s instructions.
5 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Note
the gauge reading as soon as the pressure
stabilises, and compare it with the figures
given for regulated fuel pressure in the
Specifications . If the pressure is high, check
for a restricted fuel return line. If the pressure
is low, renew the fuel pressure regulator. 6
Switch off the engine, and check that after
one minute, the hold pressure has not fallen
below that specified. If it has, check the seals
on the fuel injector (see Section 14) and renew
them if they appear in any way suspect. If the
seals are okay, then the fuel pressure
regulator or CFi unit are suspect.
7 Carefully disconnect the fuel pressure
gauge, depressurising the system first as
described in Section 2.
8 Run the engine, and check that there are no
fuel leaks.
8 Fuel tank - removal,
inspection and refitting
3
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 8, but
before disconnecting the battery, relieve the
residual pressure in the fuel system (see Sec-
tion 2), and equalise tank pressure by removing
the fuel filler cap. Note also that it will be
necessary to release any additional ventilation
tubes from their retaining clips, and to reposition
or remove the underbody heat shields on certain
models for access to the tank retaining bolts.
9 Fuel pump/fuel gauge
sender unit - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding. Ford specify the use of their
service tool 23-026 (a large box spanner with
projecting teeth to engage the fuel pump/sender
unit retaining ring’s slots) for this task. While
alternatives are possible, in view of the difficulty
experienced in removing and refitting the
pump/sender unit, it is strongly advised that the
correct tool is obtained before starting work.
Removal
1 A combined fuel pump and fuel gauge
sender unit are located in the top face of the
fuel tank. The combined unit can only be
detached and withdrawn from the tank after
the tank is released and lowered from
under the vehicle. Refer to Section 8 and
remove the fuel tank, then proceed as follows.
2 With the fuel tank removed, the
pump/sender unit can be unscrewed using
the special tool (see illustration) .
3 Withdraw the unit upwards from the tank
(see illustration) , and detach the seal ring.
9.3 Fuel pump (A) and sender unit (B)
4B•4 Fuel system - central fuel injection engines
9.2 Ford Special tool engaged on the fuel
pump/sender unit
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