1989 FORD FIESTA brake pads

point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.
Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where
unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is
not available, raise and support the vehicle on
axle stands.
2Check the pipes and connections for
evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
rubber mountings are in good condition, and
tight; if any of the mountings are to be
renewed, ensure that the replacements are of
the correct type (see illustration) . Leakage at
any of the joints or in other parts of the system
will usually show up as a black sooty stain in
the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants
should not be used on any part of the exhaust
system upstream of the catalytic converter -
even if the sealant does not contain additives
harmful to the converter, pieces of it may
break off and foul the element, causing local
overheating.
3 At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,
etc, which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with silicone or body putty.
4 Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
rubber mountings. Try to move the system,
silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any
components can touch the body or
suspension parts, secure the exhaust system
with new mountings.
5 Check the running condition of the engine
by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe;
the exhaust deposits here are an indication
of the engine’s state of tune. The inside of the
tailpipe should be dry, and should vary in
colour from dark grey to light grey/brown; if it
is black and sooty, or coated with white
deposits, the engine is in need of a thorough
fuel system inspection.
13 Underbody and fuel/brake line check
1
1With the vehicle raised and supported on
axle stands or over an inspection pit,
thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel
arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In
particular, examine the bottom of the side
sills, and any concealed areas where mud can
collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident,
press and tap firmly on the panel with a
screwdriver, and check for any serious
corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If
the panel is not seriously corroded, clean
away the rust, and apply a new coating of
underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more
details of body repairs.
2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated
lower body panels for stone damage and
general condition.
3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the
underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and
leakage. Also make sure that they are correctly supported in their clips. Where
applicable, check the PVC coating on the
lines for damage.
14 Brake check
2
Note:
For detailed photographs of the brake
system, refer to Chapter 9.
1 The work described in this Section should
be carried out at the specified intervals, or
whenever a defect is suspected in the braking
system. Any of the following symptoms could
indicate a potential brake system defect:
a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the brake pedal is depressed.
b) The brakes make scraping or dragging
noises when applied.
c) Brake pedal travel is excessive.
d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-
up.
2 A thorough inspection should be made to
confirm the thickness of the linings, as
follows.
Front brakes
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
4 For better access to the brake calipers,
remove the wheels.
5 Look through the inspection window in the
caliper, and check that the thickness of the
friction lining material on each of the pads is
not less than the recommended minimum
thickness given in the Specifications. Note:
Bear in mind that the lining material is normally
bonded to a metal backing plate.
6 If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all
concerned about the condition of the pads,
then remove them from the calipers for further
inspection (refer to Chapter 9).
7 Check the remaining brake caliper in the
same way.
8 If any one of the brake pads has worn down to, or below, the specified limit,
all fourpads
must be renewed as a set.
9 Measure the thickness of the discs with a
micrometer, if available, to make sure that they
still have service life remaining. If any disc is
thinner than the specified minimum thickness,
renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any case,
check the general condition of the discs. Look
for excessive scoring and discolouration
caused by overheating. If these conditions
exist, remove the relevant disc and have it
resurfaced or renewed (refer to Chapter 9).
10 Before refitting the wheels and lowering
the car, check all brake lines and hoses (refer
to Chapter 9). In particular, check the flexible
hoses in the vicinity of the calipers, where
they are subjected to most movement. Bend
them between the fingers (but do not actually
bend them double, or the casing may be
damaged) and check that this does not reveal
previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits.
Rear brakes
11 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
12 For better access, remove the rear
wheels.
13 To check the brake shoe lining thickness
without removing the brake drums, prise the
rubber plugs from the backplates, and use an
electric torch and mirror to inspect the linings
of the leading brake shoes. Check that the
thickness of the lining material on the brake
shoes is not less than the recommendation
given in the Specifications.
14 If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the brake shoe linings, or if you
are at all concerned about the condition of the
shoes, then remove the rear drums for a more
comprehensive inspection (refer to Chap-
ter 9).
15 With the drum removed, check the shoe
return and hold-down springs for correct
installation, and check the wheel cylinders for
leakage of brake fluid. Check the friction
surface of the brake drums for scoring and
discoloration. If excessive, the drum should
be resurfaced or renewed.
16 Before refitting the wheels, check all
brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). On
completion, apply the handbrake and check
that the rear wheels are locked. The
handbrake also requires periodic adjustment,
and if its travel seems excessive, refer to
Section 27.
15 Roadwheel nut tightness check
1
1Apply the handbrake.
2 Remove the wheel covers, using the flat
end of the wheelbrace supplied in the tool kit
(on some models it will be necessary to
unscrew the retaining bolts with a special
key).
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months1•17
12.2 Ensure that the exhaust system
rubber mountings replacements are of the correct type - their colour is a good guide. Those nearest to the catalytic converterare more heat-resistant than the others
1
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9
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Front brakes
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solid or ventilated disc, with single-piston sliding calipers
Disc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . 240.0 mm
Disc thickness:Solid disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm
Ventilated disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 20.0 mm
Minimum disc thickness:
Solid disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm
Ventilated disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 18.0 mm
Maximum disc run-out (disc fitted) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm
Minimum brake pad thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm
Rear brakes
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Drum with leading and trailing shoes and automatic adjusters
Nominal drum diameter: All except XR2i and ABS equipped models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 mm
XR2i and ABS equipped models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 mm
Maximum drum diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
1.0 mm above nominal diameter
Wheel cylinder bore diameter:
All except XR2i and ABS equipped models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17.5 mm
XR2i models with conventional braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.0 mm
All ABS equipped models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.0 mm
Minimum brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
Chapter 9
Braking system
ABS modulator drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Anti-lock braking system (ABS) - general information . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Anti-lock braking system (ABS) components - removal and refitting . . 24
Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Se\
e Chapter 1
Brake fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly Checks”
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Brake pedal-to-servo cross-link - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 11
Brake pressure control valves - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Front brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Front brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1
Handbrake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Handbrake lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Handbrake primary cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Handbrake rear cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Hydraulic pipes and hoses - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Hydraulic system - bleeding (anti-lock braking system) . . . . . . . . . . 14
Hydraulic system - bleeding (conventional braking system) . . . . . . . 13
Light-laden valve (Courier models) - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Light-laden valve (Courier models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 21
Load-apportioning valve (ABS models) - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Load-apportioning valve (ABS models) - removal and refitting . . . . 26
Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Rear brake backplate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Rear brake drum - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . \
. . . 5
Rear brake shoes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Vacuum servo unit vacuum hose and non-return valve - removal,
testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
16
9•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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1 General information
The braking system is of the diagonally
split, dual-circuit hydraulic type, with servo
assistance to the front disc brakes and rear
drum brakes. The dual-circuit hydraulic
system is a safety feature - in the event of a
malfunction somewhere in one of the
hydraulic circuits, the other circuit continues
to operate, providing at least some braking
effort. Under normal circumstances, both
brake circuits operate in unison, to provide
efficient braking.
The master cylinder (and the vacuum servo
unit to which it is bolted) is located on the left-
hand side of the bulkhead in the engine
compartment. On all right-hand drive variants,
they are jointly operated via a transverse
cross-link from the brake pedal.
Brake pressure control valves are fitted in-
line to each rear brake circuit, their function
being to regulate the braking force available at
each rear wheel, reducing the possibility of
the rear wheels locking up under heavy
braking. Courier models also have a “light-
laden” valve incorporated into the rear braking
circuits for the same reason. The front brake discs are of the ventilated
type on XR2i and ABS-equipped models, with
solid discs fitted on all other models. The front
brake calipers are of single sliding piston type
mounted on the front spindle carriers each
side. Each rear brake shoe assembly is operated
by a twin-piston wheel cylinder. The leading
brake shoe in each brake unit has a thicker
lining than the trailing shoe, so that they wear
proportionally. To take up the brake
adjustment as the linings wear, each rear
brake assembly incorporates an automatic
adjuster mechanism. The cable-operated handbrake acts on
both rear brakes, to provide an independent
means of brake operation. An anti-lock braking system (ABS) is
available on some models, and has many of
the components in common with the conventional braking system. Further details
on ABS can be found later in this Chapter.
Note:
When servicing any part of the system,
work carefully and methodically; also observe
scrupulous cleanliness when overhauling any
part of the hydraulic system. Always renew
components (in axle sets, where applicable) if
in doubt about their condition, and use only
genuine Ford replacement parts, or at least
those of known good quality. Note the
warnings given in “Safety first” and at relevant
points in this Chapter concerning the dangers
of asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
2 Front brake pads - renewal
2
Warning: Disc brake pads MUST
be renewed on both front
wheels at the same time -
NEVER renew the pads on only
one wheel, as uneven braking may result.
The front brake calipers will be of Bendix
or Teves manufacture, and if they or their
component parts require renewal, ensure
that the correct type is fitted. Dust created
by wear of the pads may contain asbestos,
which is a health hazard. Never blow it out
with compressed air, and do not inhale any
of it. DO NOT use petroleum-based
solvents to clean brake parts - use brake
cleaner or methylated spirit only. DO NOT allow any brake fluid, oil or grease to
contact the brake pads or disc. Also refer
to the warning in Section 13 concerning
the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1
Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Hold the caliper support spring with a pair
of pliers, and prise it out of its location in the
caliper housing using a screwdriver (see
illustration) .
3 Prise free the blanking plugs from the
caliper upper and lower mounting bolts.
Unscrew the bolts, then withdraw the caliper
from the anchor bracket (see illustrations).
Suitably support the caliper to avoid straining
the brake hose.
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Master cylinder to servo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 20 to 25 15 to 18
Servo to mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 45 26 to 33
Pedal-to-servo cross-link brackets to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18
Rear drum/hub to axle flange bolts* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 to 76 41 to 56
Caliper-to-spindle carrier (anchor bracket) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 to 66 37 to 49
Caliper piston housing retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18
Load-apportioning valves to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18
Load-apportioning valve bracket to vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21
Load-apportioning valve adjustment screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 to 16 9 to 12
Load-apportioning valve-to-axle beam link rod nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21
Modulator pivot and adjusting clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Modulator drivebelt cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
8 to 12 6 to 9
Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 70 to 110 52 to 74
*Applies to all models except Courier. No figures are quoted by the manu\
facturers for Courier models.
9•2 Braking system
2.3b . . . unscrew the bolts then withdraw the caliper from the anchor bracket2.3a Remove the rubber blanking plugs foraccess to the caliper mounting bolts . . .
2.2 Prise out the caliper support spring with a screwdriver
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4Withdraw the pads from the caliper piston
housing or anchor bracket. The outer pad will
normally remain in position in the anchor
bracket, but the inner pad will stay attached to
the piston in the caliper, and may need to be
carefully prised free. If the old pads are to be
refitted, ensure that they are identified so that
they can be returned to their original
positions.
5 Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and
piston, but do not inhale it, as it is a health
hazard . Inspect the dust cover around the
piston for damage and for evidence of fluid
leaks, which if found will necessitate caliper
overhaul as described in Section 3.
6 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the
caliper piston will need to be pushed back
into its housing, to allow for the extra pad
thickness - use a C-clamp to do this. Note
that, as the piston is pressed back into the
bore, it will displace the fluid in the system,
causing the fluid level in the brake master
cylinder reservoir to rise and possibly
overflow. To avoid this possibility, a small
quantity of fluid should be removed from the
reservoir. If any brake fluid is spilt onto the
bodywork, hoses or adjacent components in
the engine compartment, wipe it clean without
delay.
7 Prior to refitting, check that the pads and
the disc are clean. Where new pads are to be
installed, peel the protective backing paper
from them. If the old pads are to be refitted,
ensure that they are correctly located as
noted during their removal.
8 Locate the inner and outer brake pad into
position in the caliper. Relocate the caliper
into position on the anchor bracket, and insert
the mounting bolts.
9 Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torque, and refit the blanking plugs. Relocate
the caliper support spring.
10 Repeat the procedure on the opposite
front brake. 11
Before lowering the vehicle, check that
the fluid level in the brake master cylinder
reservoir is up to the “Maximum level” mark,
and top-up with the specified fluid type if
required (see “Weekly Checks” ). Depress the
brake pedal a few times to position the pads
against the disc, then recheck the fluid level in
the reservoir and further top-up if necessary.
12 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the
vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel
retaining nuts to the specified torque.
13 To allow the new brake pads to bed-in
and reach full efficiency, a running-in period of
approximately 100 miles or so should be
observed before hard use and heavy braking.
3 Front brake caliper - removal,
overhaul and refitting
4
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 13
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and
to the warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.
Removal
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible brake
hose leading to the front brake caliper. This
will minimise brake fluid loss during
subsequent operations.
3 Loosen by half a turn, the union on the
caliper end of the flexible brake hose.
4 Remove the front brake pads as described
in Section 2.
5 Support the caliper in one hand, and
prevent the brake hose from turning with a
spanner in the other hand. Unscrew the
caliper from the hose, making sure that the
hose is not twisted unduly or strained (see
illustration) . Once the caliper is detached,
cover or plug the open hydraulic unions to
keep them clean.
6 If required, the caliper anchor bracket can
be unbolted and removed from the spindle
carrier (see illustration) .
Overhaul
7With the caliper on the bench, wipe away all
traces of dust and dirt, but avoid inhaling the
dust, as it is a health hazard .
8 Remove the piston from its bore by
applying low air pressure (from a foot pump,
for example) into the caliper hydraulic fluid
hose port. In the event of a high-pressure air
hose being used, keep the pressure as low as
possible, to enable the piston to be extracted,
but to avoid the piston being ejected too
quickly and being damaged. Position a
suitable piece of wood between the caliper
frame and the piston to prevent this
possibility. Any fluid remaining in the caliper
will probably be ejected with the piston.
9 Using a suitable hooked tool, carefully extract
the dust cover from its groove in the piston
and the seal from its groove in the caliper bore,
but take care not to scratch or damage the
piston and/or the bore in the caliper.
10 Clean all the parts in methylated spirit or
clean brake fluid, and wipe dry using a clean
lint-free cloth (see illustration) . Inspect the
piston and caliper bore for signs of damage,
scuffing or corrosion. If these conditions are
evident, renew the caliper body assembly.
11 If the components are in satisfactory
condition, a repair kit which includes a new
seal and dust cover must be obtained.
12 Lubricate the piston bore in the caliper
and the seal with clean brake fluid. Carefully
fit the seal in the caliper bore, using fingers
only (no tools) to manipulate it into position in
its groove. When in position, check that it is
not distorted or twisted.
13 Locate the dust cover over the piston so
that its inner diameter is engaged in the piston
groove. Smear the area behind the piston
groove with the special lubricating grease
supplied in the repair kit, then insert the piston
into the caliper. Push the piston into position in
the bore, and simultaneously press the dust
cover into the piston housing so that it is seated
correctly. Take particular care not to distort or
damage the seal or cover as they are fitted.
Refitting
14 If the anchor bracket was removed, fit it
into position on the spindle carrier, and tighten
the retaining bolts to the specified torque.
Braking system 9•3
3.10 Brake caliper and piston components
A Dust cover C Piston
B Piston seal D Brake caliper
3.6 Undoing a brake caliper anchor bracket bolt3.5 Hold the brake hose with a spannerand unscrew the caliper from the hose
9
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
An ideal way to remove fluidfrom the master cylinder
reservoir is to use a clean
syringe or an old poultry
baster.
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15Unplug the hydraulic hose, and check that
the unions are clean. Reconnect the caliper to
the hose so that the hose is not twisted or
strained. The hose union connection can be
fully tightened when the caliper is refitted.
16 Refit the brake pads as described in
Section 2.
17 The brake hydraulic hose can now be fully
tightened. When secured, turn the steering
from lock-to-lock to ensure that the hose
does not foul on the wheel housing or
suspension components.
18 Bleed the brake hydraulic system as
described in Section 13 or 14 according to
type. Providing suitable precautions were
taken to minimise loss of fluid, it should only
be necessary to bleed the relevant front
brake.
19 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle to
the ground, then tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque.
4 Front brake disc - inspection,
removal and refitting
2
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.
Inspection
Note: If a disc requires renewal, BOTH front
discs should be renewed or reground at the
same time to ensure even and consistent
braking. New brake pads should also be fitted.
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Temporarily refit two of the wheel nuts to
diagonally-opposite studs, with the flat sides
of the nuts against the disc. Tighten the nuts
progressively, to hold the disc firmly.
3 Scrape any corrosion from the disc. Rotate
the disc, and examine it for deep scoring,
grooving or cracks. Using a micrometer,
measure the thickness of the disc in several
places. Light wear and scoring is normal, but
if excessive, the disc should be removed, and
either reground by a specialist, or renewed. If regrinding is undertaken, at least the minimum
thickness must be maintained. Obviously, if
the disc is cracked, it must be renewed.
4
Using a dial gauge, check that the disc run-
out, measured at a point 10.0 mm from the
outer edge of the disc, does not exceed the
limit given in the Specifications. To do this, fix
the measuring equipment, and rotate the disc,
noting the variation in measurement as the
disc is rotated (see illustration). The
difference between the minimum and
maximum measurements recorded is the disc
run-out.
5 If the run-out is greater than the specified
amount, check for variations of the disc
thickness as follows. Mark the disc at eight
positions 45° apart, then using a micrometer,
measure the disc thickness at the eight
positions, 15.0 mm in from the outer edge. If
the variation between the minimum and
maximum readings is greater than the
specified amount, the disc should be
renewed.
Removal
6 Remove the caliper and its anchor bracket
with reference to Section 3, but do not
disconnect the hydraulic brake hose.
Suspend the caliper assembly from the front
suspension coil spring, taking care to avoid
straining the brake hose.
7 Remove the wheel nuts which were
temporarily refitted in paragraph 2.
8 Unscrew the screw securing the disc to the
hub, and withdraw the disc (see
illustrations) . If it is tight, lightly tap its rear
face with a hide or plastic mallet.
Refitting
9 Refit the disc in a reversal of the removal
sequence. If new discs are being fitted, first remove their protective coating. Ensure
complete cleanliness of the hub and disc
mating faces and tighten the screw securely.
10
Refit the caliper/anchor bracket with
reference to Section 3.
11 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle to
the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque.
5 Rear brake drum - removal,
inspection and refitting
2
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 6
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the appropriate rear roadwheel, and release
the handbrake.
2 Undo the four bolts securing the drum/hub
and stub axle assembly to the rear axle
flange, then withdraw the drum/hub from the
axle. If the brake drum is stuck on the shoes,
remove the rubber access plug from the rear
of the brake backplate, and release the
automatic brake adjuster by levering the
release catch on the adjuster pawl through the
backplate (see illustration) .
3 With the brake drum removed, brush or
wipe the dust from the drum, brake shoes,
9•4 Braking system
5.2 Removing the rubber access plug from
the rear of the brake backplate
4.8b . . . and remove the disc from the hub4.8a Extract the brake disc securing screw . . .4.4 Checking brake disc run-out using a dial gauge
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
If a dial gauge is not
available, check the run-out
by positioning a fixed
pointer near the outer edge,
in contact with the disc face. Rotate
the disc and measure the maximum
displacement of the pointer with feeler
blades.
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16Using a suitable punch, tap the outer
bearing outer race at diametrically-opposed
points and remove the bearing assembly from
the spindle carrier. Do not allow the bearing to
tilt during its withdrawal from the housing, or it
will jam and possibly damage the surface of
the bore. Any burrs left in a bearing bore will
prevent the new bearing from seating
correctly.
17 Turn the spindle carrier over and remove
the inner bearing assembly in the same way.
18 Thoroughly clean the bearing bore and
hub, then secure the spindle carrier in the vice
in an upright position.
19 Draw the new outer bearing assembly into
the spindle carrier using a length of metal tube
of diameter slightly less than the outer race.
Do not apply any pressure to the inner race.
Alternatively, a long threaded rod or bolt, a nut
and large flat washers may be used to draw
the bearing into position (see illustration 3.7).
Once the bearing has been installed, take care
not to dislodge the inner race and seal.
20 Using the same method as for the outer
bearing, draw in the new inner bearing
assembly from the other side of the spindle
carrier. Again, take care not to dislodge the
inner race and seal once the bearing is in
position.
21 Using the same tooling arrangement as
before, and with the metal tube or washers
contacting the inner bearing inner race, draw
the hub fully into the bearings. Alternatively, if
a press is available, support the hub face
down on the press bed and using a metal tube
in contact with the inner bearing inner race,
press the spindle carrier onto the hub.
22 Check that the hub spins freely in the
bearings, then refit the spindle carrier as
described in Section 2.4 Front suspension strut -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Open and support the bonnet. Prise free
the protective cap from the suspension strut
top-mount retaining nut, then slacken the nut,
but do not remove it at this stage (see
illustrations) . Hold the strut piston rod with
an Allen key to prevent the rod from turning as
the nut is slackened.
3 Detach the front brake hose from the
support bracket on the strut.
4 Where applicable, unbolt and detach the
anti-roll bar connecting link from the strut
bracket.
5 Undo the two bolts securing the front brake
caliper anchor bracket to the spindle carrier.
Slide the caliper assembly, complete with
brake pads off the disc and spindle carrier
and suspend the caliper within the wheelarch
with a length of strong wire, to prevent the
flexible brake hose from straining.
6 Unscrew and remove the strut-to-spindle
carrier pinch-bolt.
7 Prise open the spindle carrier-to-strut joint
using a stout screwdriver, and separate the
carrier from the strut. Tap the carrier
downwards using a soft-faced hammer to
release it from the strut if necessary. Once the
two components are separated, support the
lower suspension arm to avoid straining the
CV joints. 8
Support the weight of the strut underneath,
and unscrew the previously slackened top-
mount retaining nut and lift off the upper cup
seat mounting. Lower the strut and remove it
from under the wheel arch.
Refitting
9 Locate the strut through the wheel arch and
refit the upper cup seat mounting and top-
mount retaining nut. Do not tighten the nut at
this stage.
10 Apply leverage to the spindle carrier slot
so that the spindle carrier can be refitted to
the base of the suspension strut. Refit the
suspension strut to spindle carrier pinch-bolt
and tighten to the specified torque.
11 Tighten the suspension strut top-mount
retaining nut to the specified torque, using an
Allen key to prevent the piston rod from
rotating. The final torque will have to be
applied without the use of the Allen key unless
a suitable open-ended torque wrench adapter
is available. Refit the cap over the nut.
12 Refit the brake caliper assembly to the
spindle carrier, and tighten the caliper anchor
bracket bolts to the specified torque (see
Chapter 9).
13 Refit the bolt to secure the brake hose
bracket to the suspension strut, and fully
tighten.
14 Remove the support from under the lower
suspension arm.
15 Reconnect the anti-roll bar connecting
link to the strut bracket, where applicable,
tightening the nut to the specified torque.
16 Refit the roadwheel, remove the axle
stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.
17 Tighten the roadwheel nuts according to
the specified torque.
5 Front suspension strut -
dismantling, examination and
reassembly
4
Warning: Before attempting to
dismantle the suspension strut,
a suitable tool to hold the coil
spring in compression must be
obtained. Adjustable coil spring
compressors which can be positively
secured to the spring coils are readily
available, and are recommended for this
operation. Any attempt to dismantle the
strut without such a tool is likely to result
in damage or personal injury.
Dismantling
1 With the strut removed from the vehicle,
clean away all external dirt, then mount it
upright in a vice.
2 Fit the spring compressor tool (ensuring
that it is fully engaged) and compress the coil
spring until all tension is relieved from the
upper mounting (see illustration) .
3 Remove the spring retaining nut, then
withdraw the lower cup seat mounting, thrust
10•6 Suspension and steering
5.2 Typical pair of coil spring compressors in use
4.2b Slackening the front suspension strut
top-mount retaining nut whilst preventing the piston rod from turning4.2a Removing cap from front suspensionstrut top-mount retaining nut
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1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit
should only be used for changing the
roadwheels - see “Wheel changing” at the
front of this manual. When jacking up the
vehicle to carry out repair or maintenance
tasks, a pillar or trolley type jack of suitable
lifting capacity must be used, supplemented
with axle stands positioned only beneath the
appropriate points under the vehicle (see
illustration) . Note that the vehicle must never
be jacked up at the rear under the axle beam. The maximum kerb weight of the vehicle must
not be exceeded when jacking and supporting
the vehicle. Do not under any circumstances
jack up the rear of the vehicle under the rear axle.
Never work under, around or near a raised
vehicle unless it is adequately supported in at
least two places with axle stands.
The radio/cassette unit fitted as standard or
optional equipment may be equipped with a
built-in security code, to deter thieves. If the
power source to the unit is cut, the anti-theft
system will activate. Even if the power source
is immediately reconnected, the radio/
cassette unit will not function until the correct security code has been entered. Therefore,
if you do not know the correct security
code for the radio/cassette unit do not
disconnect either of the battery terminals, or
remove the radio/cassette unit from the
vehicle. To enter the correct security code, follow the instructions provided with the
radio/cassette player or vehicle handbook.
If an incorrect code is entered, the unit will
become locked, and cannot be operated.
If this happens, or if the security code is lost
or forgotten, seek the advice of your Ford
dealer.
Jacking and vehicle supportREF•5
REF
Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution
Underside view of the vehicle showing the jacking point locations
A Jacking points for trolley jack (always use a suitable block
of wood to protect the
vehicle body)
B Axle stand positions
C Jacking points for owner jack and wheel-free hoist
Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, including maker’s appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it
will sometimes be necessary to quote the
vehicle identification number. If possible, it
can also be useful to take the old parts along
for positive identification. Items such as
starter motors and alternators may be
available under a service exchange scheme -
any parts returned should always be clean.
Our advice regarding spare part sources is
as follows.
Officially-appointed garages
This is the best source of parts which are
peculiar to your car, and which are not
otherwise generally available (eg badges,
interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the vehicle is still under warranty.
Accessory shops
These are very good places to buy materials and components needed for the
maintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel
filters, spark plugs, light bulbs, drivebelts, oils
and greases, brake pads, touch-up paint, etc).
Components of this nature sold by a
reputable shop are of the same standard as
those used by the car manufacturer.
Besides components, these shops also sell
tools and general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices, and can often be found not far from
home. Some accessory shops have parts
counters where the components needed for
almost any repair job can be purchased or
ordered.
Motor factors
Good factors will stock all the more
important components which wear out
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves, alternator brushes). They may also
handle work such as cylinder block reboring,
crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc.
Tyre and exhaust specialists
These outlets may be independent, or
members of a local or national chain. They
frequently offer competitive prices when
compared with a main dealer or local garage,
but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
making a decision. When researching prices,
also ask what “extras” may be added - for
instance, fitting a new valve and balancing the
wheel are both commonly charged on top of
the price of a new tyre.
Other sources
Beware of parts or materials obtained from
market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
but there is little chance of compensation if
they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
safety-critical components such as brake
pads, there is the risk not only of financial loss
but also of an accident causing injury or
death. Second-hand components or assemblies
obtained from a car breaker can be a good
buy in some circumstances, but this sort of
purchase is best made by the experienced
DIY mechanic.
Buying spare parts
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1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
REF•18Fault finding
Braking system
Note:Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the
tyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheel\
alignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in \
an
unequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe and
hose connections, any faults occurring on the Anti-lock Braking System
(ABS) should be referred to a Ford dealer for diagnosis.
Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
m m Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated front or rear brake
pads/shoes on one side (Chapter 1).
m m Seized or partially-seized front or rear brake caliper/wheel cylinder
piston (Chapter 9).
m m A mixture of brake pad/shoe lining materials fitted between sides
Chapter 1).
m m Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).
m
m Rear brake backplate mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).
m
m Worn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chap-
ter 10).
Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when
brakes applied
m mBrake pad or shoe friction lining material worn down to metal
backing Chapter 1).
m m Excessive corrosion of brake disc or drum (may be apparent after
the vehicle has been standing for some time) (Chapter 1).
Excessive brake pedal travel
m mInoperative rear brake self-adjust mechanism (Chapter 9).
m
m Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).
m
m Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).
Rear wheels locking under normal braking
m
mRear brake shoe linings contaminated (Chapter 1).
m
m Faulty brake pressure regulator (Chapter 9).
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m
mAir in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).
m
m Deteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapter 9).
m
m Master cylinder mounting nuts loose (Chapter 9).
m
m Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).
Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop
vehicle
m mFaulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9).
m
m Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
(Chapter 9).
m m Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 9).
m
m Seized brake caliper or wheel cylinder piston(s) (Chapter 9).
m
m Brake pads or brake shoes incorrectly fitted (Chapter 9).
m
m Incorrect grade of brake pads or brake shoes fitted (Chapter 1).
m
m Brake pads or brake shoe linings contaminated (Chapter 1).
Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel
when braking
m mExcessive run-out or distortion of front discs or rear drums
Chapter 9).
m m Brake pad or brake shoe linings worn (Chapter 1).
m
m Brake caliper or rear brake backplate mounting bolts loose
(Chapter 9).
m m Wear in suspension or steering components or mountings
(Chapter 10).
Brakes binding
m mSeized brake caliper or wheel cylinder piston(s) (Chapter 9).
m
m Faulty handbrake mechanism (Chapter 9).
m
m Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).
Automatic transmission
Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. For
problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a
dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist.
Fluid leakage
m m Automatic transmission fluid is usually deep red in colour. Fluid
leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be
blown onto the transmission by airflow.
m m To determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas, using
a degreasing agent, or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low
speed, so airflow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise
and support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming
from. The following are common areas of leakage:
a) Transmission fluid sump (Chapters 1 and 7B).
b) Dipstick tube (Chapters 1 and 7B).
c) Transmission-to-fluid cooler pipes/unions (Chapter 7B).
d) Speedometer drive pinion O-ring.
e) Differential output fluid seals (Chapter 7B).
Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m m Transmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1).\
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
m mStarter inhibitor switch faulty (Chapter 7B).
m
m Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).
General gear selection problems
m
mChapter 7B deals with checking and adjusting the selector cable
on automatic transmissions. The following are common problems
which may be caused by a poorly-adjusted cable:
a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b) Indicator on gear selector lever pointing to a gear other than the
one actually being used.
c) Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
d) Poor gear shift quality or erratic gear changes.
Refer to Chapter 7B for the selector cable adjustment procedure.
Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator pedal fully depressed
m m Low transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).
m
m Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).
m
m Engine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4A, 4B, 4C, 4D, 4E
or 5B).
Transmission slips, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
m mThere are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -
fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission
specialist, check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as
described in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or
change the fluid if needed. If the problem persists, professional
help will be necessary.
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