1988 PONTIAC FIERO run flat

3E-6 TIRES AND WHEELS
runout of the tire or wheel. Use a dial indicator on the
tire's sidewall and on the rim's flange to determine if
there is excessive lateral
runout.
MEASURING WHEEL RUNOUT
Fig. 9
Wheel runout should be measured with an
accurate dial indicator. Measurements may be taken
with the wheel installed on the car or off the car using
an accurate mounting surface such as on a wheel
balancer. Measurements may also be taken with or
without the tire mounted on the wheel.
Radial
runout and lateral runout should be
measured on both the inboard and outboard rim
flanges. With the dial indicator firmly in position,
slowly rotate the wheel one revolution and record the
total indicator reading. If any measurement exceeds
specifications, and there is a vibration that wheel
balancing will not correct, the wheel should be
replaced. Disregard
any indicator readings due to
welds, paint runs, scratches, etc.
e STEEL WHEELS
Radial
runout .040"
Lateral runout .045"
e ALUMINUM WHEELS
Radial
runout .030"
Lateral runout .030"
SPARE TIRE
Compact Spare
Fig. 10
Some models will be equipped with a high
pressure compact spare. The compact spare uses a
narrow 4-inch wide rim, although the wheel diameter
is usually one inch larger than the road wheels.
The compact spare wheel should not be used with
standard tires, snow tires, wheel covers or trim rings.
If such use is attempted, damage to these items or other
parts of the car may occur. The compact spare should
be used only on cars which offered it as original
equipment.
Inflation pressure of the compact spare must be
periodically checked and maintained at
415 kPa (60
psi). It can be mounted and dismounted from its wheel
using present tire changing equipment and procedures.
As with other tires, the beads should completely seat
at
275 kPa (40 psi). The tire may then be safely inflated
to
415 kPa (60 psi).
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal
injury, do not stand over tire when
inflating. Bead may break when bead
snaps over safety hump. Do not
exceed
275 kPa (40 psi) pressure
when inflating any tire
if beads are not
seated. If
275 kPa (40 psi) pressure
will not seat beads, deflate,
relubricate the beads and reinflate.
Overinflation may cause the bead to
break and cause serious personal
injury.
INBOARD SIDE TIRE MOUNTED ON fVHEEL OUTBOARD SIDE
RADIAL
RUNOUT'
'IF WHEEL DESIGN MAKES THISOUTBOARD MEASUREMENT IMPOSSIBLE. THE INBOARD
SIDE ONLY MAY BE USED
I RADIAL RUNOUT RADIAL RUNDUT I
INBOARD SIDE OUTBOARD SIDE
Fig. 9 Wheel Runout
Stowaway Spare
Fig. 11
Some models will be equipped with an inflatable
stowaway spare.
The stowaway spare uses a pressurized tire
inflator filled with
C02 (carbon dioxide), and is
refillable after use. Use
J 26696-A to refill inflator.
The stowaway spare wheel should not be used
with standard tires, snow tires, wheel covers or trim
@ Temporary
Use Only
@ Inflate to 80 PSI
Fig. 10 Compact Spare
rings. If such use is attempted, damage to these items
or other parts of the car may occur. The stowaway
spare should be used only on cars which offered
it as
original equipment.
If service is needed on a stowaway spare, contact
an authorized retailer of the tire manufacturer.

4A-2 PROPELLER SHAFT
1. SLIP YOKE 2. BEARING CAPS 3. PROPELLER SHAFT
(SEAMLESS TUBE)
Figure 4A-1 Propeller Shaft
Leak
at front slip 1. Rough outside surface 1. Replace seal if cut by
yoke. (An occasional on
slip yoke. burrs on yoke.
Minor burrs
drop of lubricant can
be smoothed by careful
leaking from splined use
of crocus
cloth or
yoke
is normal and honing
with a fine stone.
requires no attention.) Replace
yoke if outside sur-
face is rough or burred
badly.
2. Defective transmission 2. Replace transmission rear
rear oil seal. oil seal.
3. Bring transmission oil
up to proper level after
correction.
Knock in drive line
1. Worn or damaged 1. Replace.
clunking noise when car universal
joints.
is operated under float 2. Side gear hub counter- 2. Replace differential case
condition at
10 mph in bore
in differential and/or side gears as
high gear or "Neutral". worn oversize. required.
Ping, snap, or click in
1. Loose upper or lower 1. Tighten bolts to
drive line. control arm bushing specified torque.
bolts.
2. Worn or damaged 2. Replace.
universal joints.
Scraping noise. Slinger
rubbing on
rear axle carrier. Straighten
slinger to
remove interference.
I
Figure 4A-2 Propeller Shaft Diagnostic Chart 1 I i
NOTICE: Care must be taken not to include COMPANION FLANGE RUN-OUT indicator variation caused by ridges, flat spots or MEASUREMENT other variations in the tube.
Figure 4.4-5
Check companion flange run-out using Tool
4. If runout exceeds specifications, reindex the 5-35819 and 5-8001 Dial Indicator Set or equivalent.
propeller shaft 180" at the rear axle companion Instructions are included with tool. Record run-out
flange and recheck runout. and mark high and low points of companion flange.
A. If companion flange run-out is
O.15mm (.006 in.)
5. If
runout is still over specifications, check rear
or less, remove companion flange balance weight,
axle companion flange for run-out.
if used. No further action is required.

4A-4 PROPELLER SHAFT
PROPELLER SHAFT BALANCING
Hose Clamp Method
Figures 4A- 1 1 thru 4A-13
1. Place the vehicle on a twin post hoist so that the
rear of the vehicle is supported on the rear axle
housing and the rear wheels are free to rotate.
Remove both rear wheel assemblies and reinstall
wheel lug nuts with flat sides next to
drums/discs.
2. Mark and number propeller shaft at four (4)
points 90 degrees apart at rear of shaft just
forward of balance weight, as shown.
3. Install two (2) hose clamps on the rear of the
propeller shaft and slide them rearward until the
clamps stop at the nearest balance weight welded
to the tube. Align both clamps at any one of the
four marks made on shaft in Step 2 and tighten.
Be sure sufficient clearance is maintained so that
clamp heads do not contact floor pan of vehicle
when axle is in contact with rebound bumper in
frame. In order to gain sufficient clearance, it
may be necessary to position the clamps over the
balance weights.
4. Run the vehicle through the speed range to 80-90
MPH (130-145
Km/h) and note amount of
imbalance.
CAUTION: All persons should stay
clear of universal joint and balance
weight areas to avoid possible injury.
Do not run on hoist for extended
periods due to the danger of
overheating the transmission or
engine.
5. Loosen clamps and rotate clamp heads 90 degrees
to the next mark on a propeller shaft. Tighten
clamps and repeat Step 4.
6. Repeat Step 5 until car has been run with clamp
heads located at all four marks on shaft.
7. Position clamps at point of least imbalance.
Rotate the clamp heads away from each other 45
degrees (one on each side of the position), as
shown. Run the vehicle and note if imbalance has
improved.
In some cases it may be necessary to use one
clamp or possibly three clamps in order to obtain
a good balance. Replace shaft if three hose clamps
do not improve the imbalance.
8. Continue to rotate the clamps apart in smaller
angular increments until the imbalance is at its
minimum.
9. Reinstall wheel assemblies and road test the
vehicle for final check of balance. A minimal
vibration felt in the vehicle on the hoist may not
show up during a road test.
Strobe Light Method
Figures 461- 1 1, $A- 14, and 4A- 15
If a wheel balancer of the strobe light type is
available, the use of such a unit will facilitate the
balancing of the propeller shaft. The balance pick-up
unit should be placed directly under the nose of the
rear axle carrier and as far forward as possible. 1.
Place
the vehicle on a twin post hoist so the rear of
the vehicle is supported on the rear axle housing and
the rear wheels are free to rotate. Lower rear hoist
and allow axle to rest on jackstands. The groove in
the rear hoist fixture could clamp the axle and de-
stroy the sensitivity of the operation. Remove both
rear wheel assemblies and reinstall wheel lug nuts
with flat sides next to the
drums/rotors.
2.
Mark and number drive shaft at 4 points 90
degrees apart at rear of shaft just forward of
balance weights, as shown.
3. Place the strobe light wheel balancer pick-up
under the nose of the carrier.
4. Run vehicle in gear at the speed where the
distrubance is at its peak, allow the driveline to
stabilize by holding at a constant speed. Point
strobe light up at the spinning propeller shaft and
note position of one of the reference numbers.
Shut off engine and position the propeller shaft so
the reference numbers will be in the same position
as was noted while the shaft was rotating.
When strobe light flashed, the heaviest point of
the shaft was at the bottom (6 o'clock). To
balance the propeller shaft, it would be necessary
to apply the balancing weights (hose clamps) 180
degrees away from the heaviest point or at the top
of the propeller shaft (12 o'clock).
5. Install two screw-type hose clamps on the
propeller shaft as close to the rear as possible.
Position both clamp heads 180 degrees from the
heaviest point of drive shaft as indicated by strobe
light. Tighten clamps.
NOTICE: Be sure sufficient clearance is
maintained so clamp heads do not contact floor
pan of vehicle when axle is in contact with rebound
bumper on frame. In order to gain. sufficient
clearance, it may be necessary to position the
clamps over the balance weights.
6. Run vehicle through the speed range 80-90
M.P.
H. (130-145 Km/h). If disturbance is gone,
nothing further need be done on the hoist. If the
disturbance is not gone and the strobe light shows
the clamp heads at the bottom (6 o'clock) of the
shaft, go to Step
7. If the strobe light shows the
two clamp heads at the top of the shaft, add one
more hose clamp and recheck. If the strobe light
shows the three clamp heads at the top of the
shaft, remove the propeller shaft and
reindex it
180 degrees on the rear axle pinion companion
flange. Recheck with no clamps. Repeat balance
starting with Step 5. If the shaft still needs more
than three hose clamps at the same clock position,
replace it. If the clamps are also 180 degrees from
their original position after the propeller shaft
was reindexed 180 degrees, the rear axle pinion
companion flange is out of balance and must be
replaced. DO NOT use more than three hose
clamps to balance the shaft. If the strobe light
shows the hose clamps at the bottom of the shaft,
but the disturbance still exists, go to Step
7.

4A-10 PROPELLER SHAFT
STEP 1
DETERMINE POINT
OF UNBALANCE STEP
2 STEP 3
ADD
HOSE CLAMPS 180 FROM POINT OF UNBALANCE UNlTL THEY BECOME
HEAVY SPOT ROTATE
TWO CLAMPS EQUALLY
AWAY FROM EACH OTHER
UNTIL BEST BALANCE
IS ACHIEVED
1. SHEARED NYLON 2. INJECTION RING INJECTION RINGS REMOVED FROM
BEARING CAP
Figure 4A-16 Production U-Joints-Nylon Injected Ring
Type
1. BEARING CAP 5. SHIELD
2. SNAP RING 6. SEAL
3. FLAT DELRIN WASHER 7. NEEDLE BEARING
4. SPIDER 8. ROUND DELRIN WASHER J10017-4A-F
Figure 4A-17 U-Joints-External Snap Ring Type
1. CROSS PRESS
2.
1 118 (30rnrn) SOCKET TO
SUPPORT YOKE
EAR, BUT MUST
CLEAR BEARING
CAP
J~oo~~-~A-F
Figure 4A-18 Pressing Out Universal Joint Bearing Cap
2. J 9522-5
3. BEARING CAP
Figure 4A-19 Spacer Tool J-9522-5 Installation
5. Press against opposite bearing caps, working the
of the trunnions in the bearing caps. If there
cross all of the time to check for free movement
seems to be a hang-up, stop pressing and recheck

4819 REAR AXLE
bears against the inner race of the front bearing and a
shoulder on the pinion stem. This spacer is used to
enable accurate bearing pre-load adjustment and
maintain a pre-load on both front and rear pinion
bearings, Adjustment of the fore and aft position of the
pinion is obtained by placing a shim between the rear
pinion bearing cup and axle housing. The differential
case is of two-piece construction and is supported in
the carrier by two tapered roller side bearings. Pre-load
rear axle case by inserting shims between the bearings
and the carrier. The rear axle case assembly is
positioned for proper ring gear to pinion backlash by
varying the shim thickness from side to side. The ring
gear is bolted to the case. Two side gears have splined
bores for driving the axle shafts. They are positioned
to turn in counterbored cavities in the case. The four
rear axle pinions have smooth bores and are held in
position by a pinion cross shaft, mounted and locked
in the rear axle case. All six gears are in mesh with each
other and because the pinion gears turn freely on their
shaft, they act as idler gears when the rear wheels are
turning at different speeds. The pinions and side gears
are backed by steel thrust washers.
LIMITED-SLIP REAR AXLE
The operation of the Limited-Slip differential is
the same as the standard differential, except that there
is additional friction provided by the conical clutches.
Under ordinary driving and cornering conditions, the
cones slip, allowing the outside wheel to turn faster
than the inner. Under poor traction conditions, such as
ice, snow, or loose gravel under one driving wheel, the
increased friction provided by the cones increases the
driving torque available to the wheel with the better
traction. The cones are spring loaded to provide the
increased driving torque under extremely low traction
conditions.
Operation
When the vehicle turns a corner, the outer rear
wheel must turn faster than the inner wheel. The inner
wheel, turning slower than the outer wheel, slows its
differential side gear (as the axle shaft is splined to the
side gear) and the differential pinion gears will roll
around the slowed differential side gear, driving the
other differential side gear and wheel faster.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Many noises reported as coming from the rear
axle assembly actually originate from other sources
such as tires, road surfaces, front wheel bearings, axle
bearing, engine, transmission, muffler or body
drumming. A thorough and careful check should be
made to determine the source of the noise before
disassembling the rear axle. Noise which originates in
other places cannot be corrected by adjustment or
replacement of parts in the differential. It should also
be remembered that rear axle gears, like any other
mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet and should
be accepted as being commercially quiet unless some
abnormal noise is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise under
standard conditions, observe the following:
1. Select a level smooth asphalt road to reduce tire
noise and body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant to assure correct level,
then drive car far enough to thoroughly warm up
rear axle lubricant, approximately 10 miles.
3. Note speed and RPM at which noise occurs. Stop
car and put transmission in neutral. Run engine
slowly up and down through engine speeds,
corresponding to car speed at which noise was
most pronounced, to determine if it is caused by
exhaust, muffler roar or other engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces,
but rear axle noise does not. Temporarily
inflating all tires to approximately 50 pounds
pressure
for test purposes only will materially
alter noise caused by tires, but will not affect noise
caused by rear axle. Rear axle noise usually stops
when coasting at speeds under 30 miles per hour;
however, tire noise continues, but with lower
tone, as car speed is reduced. Rear axle noise
usually changes when comparing acceleration
and coast, but tire noise remains about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise
by noting if noise varies with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration; exhaust
and axle noise show variations under these
conditions while tire noise remains constant and
is more pronounced at speeds of 20 to 30 miles
per hour. Further check for tire noise by driving
car over smooth pavements or dirt roads (not
gravel) with tires at normal pressure. If noise is
caused by tires, it will noticeably change or
disappear and reappear with changes in road
surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause
noise which may be confused with rear axle
noises; however, front wheel bearing noise does
not change when comparing drive and coast.
Light application of brakes while holding car
speed steady will often cause wheel bearing noise
to diminish, as this takes some weight off the
bearing. Front wheel bearings may be easily
checked for noise by jacking up the wheels and
spinning them, also by shaking wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when
correctly installed. Check to see that no metallic
contact exists between the spring and spring seat
opening in frame or between upper and lower
control arm bushings and frame or axle housing
brackets. The track bar and torque arm must be
bolted securely. Metal-to-metal contact at those
points may result in telegraphing road noise and
normal axle noise which would not be
objectionable if dampened by bushings.
AXLE NOISES
After the noise has been determined as being in
the axle by following the above appraisal procedure,
the type of axle noise should be determined to aid in
making repairs if necessary.

REAR AXLE 4B-3
Noise which originates in other places cannot be
corrected by adjustment or replacement of parts in the
differential. It should also be remembered that rear
axle gears, like any other mechanical device, are not
absolutely quiet and should be accepted as being
commercially quiet unless some abnormal noise is
present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise under
standard conditions, observe the following:
1. Select a level smooth asphalt road to reduce tire
noise and body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant to assure correct level,
then drive car far enough to thoroughly warm up
rear axle lubricant.
3. Note speed and RPM at which noise occurs. Then
stop car and with automatic transmission in neutral,
run engine slowly up and down through engine speeds, corresponding to car speed at which noise
was most pronounced, to determine if it is caused by
exhaust, muffler roar or other engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces,
but rear axle noise does not. Temporarily
inflating all tires to approximately 50 pounds
pressure for
test purposes only will materially
alter noise caused by tires, but will not affect noise
caused by rear axle. Rear axle noise usually stops
when coasting at speeds under 30 miles per hour;
however, tire noise continues, but with lower
tone, as car speed is reduced. Rear axle noise
usually changes when comparing acceleration
and coast, but tire noise remains about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise
by noting if noise varies with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration; exhaust
and axle noise show variations under these
conditions while tire noise remains constant and
is more pronounced at speeds of 20 to 30 miles
per hour. Further check for tire noise by driving
car over smooth pavements or dirt roads (not
gravel) with tires at normal pressure. If noise is
caused by tires, it will noticeably change or
disappear and reappear with changes in road
surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause
noise which may be confused with rear axle
noises; however, front wheel bearing noise does
not change when comparing drive and coast.
Light application of brakes while holding car
speed steady will often cause wheel bearing noise
to diminish, as this takes some weight off the
bearing. Front wheel bearings may be easily
checked for noise by jacking up the wheels and
spinning them, also by shaking wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when
correctly installed. Check to see that no metallic
contact exists between the spring and spring
opening in frame or between upper and lower
control arm bushings and frame or axle housing
brackets.
Metal-to-metal contact at those points
may result in telegraphing road noise and normal axle
noise which would not be objectionable if
dampened by bushings.
AXLE NOISES
Gear Noise
After the noise has been determined as being in
the
axle by following the above appraisal procedure,
the type of axle noise should be determined to aid in
maki~~g repairs if necessary.
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 20 to
55 mph
under four driving conditions:
1. Drive - Acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Road Load - Car driving load or constant speed.
3. Float
- Using
enough throttle to keep the car from
driving the engine
- car slows down gradually but
engine still pulls slightly.
4. Coast
- Throttle closed and car in gear. Gear
noise most frequently has periods where noise is
more prominent, usually 30 to 40 mph and 50 to
55 mph.
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce more of a rough
growl or grating sound, rather than the whine typical
of gear noise. Bearing noise frequently "wow-wows" at
bearing rpm, indicating a defective pinion or rear axle
case side bearing. This noise could easily be confused
with rear wheel bearing noise. Inspect and replace as
required.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
A rough rear wheel bearing produces a noise
which continues with car coasting at low speed and
transmission in neutral. Noise may diminish some by
gentle braking. With rear wheels jacked up, spin rear
wheels by hand while listening at hubs for evidence of
rough (noisy) wheel bearing.
I(noclc At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn
universal joints or a side gear hub counterbore in a case
that has worn oversize. Inspect and replace universal
joint or case and side gear as required.
Baclclash Clunk
Excessive clunk with acceleration and
deceleration is caused by worn differential pinion shaft,
excessive clearance between axle shaft and side gear
splines, excessive clearance between side gear hub and
counterbore in case worn pinion and side gear teeth,
worn thrust washers and excessive drive pinion and
rear gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace as
required, selecting close fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.
REAR AXLE STANDARD AND LIMITED-SLIP
1. Noise is the same in "Drive" or "Coast".
a. Road noise.
b. Tire noise.
c. Front wheel bearing noise.

BRAKES 5-3
DIAGNOSIS AND INSPECTION
BRAKE SYSTEM TESTING
(Figures
2 through 4)
Brakes should be tested on dry, clean, reasonably
smooth and level roadway. A true test of brake performance
cannot be made if the roadway is wet, greasy or covered
with loose dirt so that all tires do not grip the road equally.
Testing will also be affected if the roadway is crowned
which would throw the weight of the car toward the wheels
on one side. If the roadway is too rough, the wheels will tend
to bounce. Test brakes at different car speeds with both light and
heavy pedal pressure, avoid locking the brakes and sliding
the tires. Locked brakes and sliding tires do not indicate
brake efficiency, because heavily braked, but turning
wheels will stop the car in less distance than locked brakes.
More tire-to-road friction is present with a heavily braked
turning tire than with a sliding tire. The brake system is designed and balanced to avoid
locking the wheels, except at very high deceleration levels.
The shortest stopping distance and best control is achieved
without brake lock-up.
Because of high deceleration capability, a firmer pedal
may be felt at higher deceleration levels.
External Conditions That Affect Brake Performance
1. Tires. Tires having unequal contact and grip on road
will cause unequal braking. Tires must be equally
inflated and tread pattern of right and left tires must
be approximately equal.
2. Car Loading. A heavily loaded car requires more
braking effort. When a car has unequal loading, the
most heavily loaded wheels require more braking
power than others.
3. Wheel Alignment. Misalignment of the wheels, par-
ticularly excessive camber and caster, will cause the
brakes to pull to one side.
4. Front Wheel Bearings. A loose front wheel bearing
BRAKE FLUID LEAKS
With engine running at idle and the transmission in neu-
tral, depress the brake pedal and hold a constant foot pres-
sure.
If the pedal gradually falls away with the constant
pressure, the hydraulic system may be leaking. Perform a
visual check to confirm any suspected leak.
Check the master cylinder fluid levels. While a slight drop
in reservoir level does result from normal lining wear, an
abnormally low level in either reservoir indicates
a leak in
the system. The hydraulic system may be leaking either
internally or externally. See "Master Cylinder Check."
Also, the system may appear to pass this test but still have
slight leakage.
If fluid levels are normal, check the vacuum booster
pushrod length. If an incorrect length pushrod is found,
adjust or replace the
pushrod. Check the service brake
pedal travel and the parking brake adjustment.
When checking the fluid levels, the master cylinder reser-
voir may be as low as
25 mm (1 inch) from the top if the front
linings are worn. This is not abnormal.
MASTER CYLINDER CHECK
These checks will help locate some master cylinder mal-
functions. Use the Brake Diagnosis Charts to help isolate
the problem if it is not found by using these tests.
1. Check for a cracked master cylinder casting or brake
fluid around the master cylinder. Leaks are indicated
only if there is at least a drop of fluid. A damp condi-
tion is not abnormal.
2. Check for a binding pedal linkage.
3. Disassemble the master cylinder and check for swol-
len or stretched piston
seal(s). If swollen seals are
found, substandard or contaminated brake fluid
should be suspected.
If contaminated, all compo-
nents should be disassembled and cleaned. All rub-
ber components should be replaced and all the pipes
should be flushed.
permits the front wheel to tilt and lose contact with the
SUBSTANDARD OR CONTAMINATED brake shoe linings causing erratic brake operation. BRAKE FLUID
WARNING LAMP OPERATION
The brake system uses a single red "BRAKE" warning
lamp located in the instrument panel cluster. When the
ignition switch is in the "START" position, the "BRAKE"
warning lamp should come on. It should go off when the
ignition switch returns to the "RUN" position.
The following conditions will activate the "BRAKE"
warning lamp:
1. Parking brake applied. The lamp should be on when
tfie parking brake is applied and the ignition switch is
"ON."
2. Pressure differential switch detects a failure. See
"Brake Pressure Differential Warning Switch" in this
section. Improper
brake fluid, mineral oil or water in the fluid may
cause the brake fluid to boil or the rubber components to
deteriorate.
If piston cups are swollen, the rubber parts have dete-
riorated. This deterioration may also be seen by swollen
wheel cylinder piston cups on the drum brake wheels or a
swollen master cylinder cover diaphragm.
If rubber deterioration is evident, disassemble all hydrau-
lic parts and wash with alcohol. Dry these parts with com-
pressed air before assembly to keep alcohol out of the
system. Replace all rubber parts in the system, including
hoses. Check for fluid on the linings. If excessive fluid is
found, replace the linings.
If master cylinder piston seals are satisfactory, check for
leakage or excessive heat conditions. If condition is not
found, drain fluid, flush with brake fluid, fill and bleed the
system.

BRAKES 5-15
lnspect rear drum brake shoe and lining assemblies.
Install or Connect (Figures 12 and 13)
When the thickness of any lining is worn within 0.76 mm
Raise vehicle. See Section OA. (0.030-inch)
of the shoe or rivet, the shoe and lining
1. Cable at brake shoe operating lever. assemblies must
be replaced. Replace shoe and lining
Bend retainer fingers. assemblies
in axle sets.
2. Brake drum and wheel.
3. Rear cable at connector.
0 Lower vehicle. See Section oA. INSPECTING AND REFINISHING ROTORS
Adjust
0 Parking brake. See Section 5C3.
Parking Brake Rear Cable (Disc Brakes)
Remove or Disconnect (Figures
12 and 13)
0 Raise vehicle. See Section OA.
1. Rear cable from connector.
0 Loosen adjusting nut at equalizer.
2. Cable from brake caliper.
Push forward on caliper parking brake apply
lever.
@ Remove cable from tang in lever.
Release lever.
Lower vehicle. See Section OA.
Install or Connect (Figures 12 and
13)
Raise vehicle. See Section OA.
1. Cable to brake caliper.
0 Push forward on caliper parking brake apply
lever.
0 Install cable in lever tang.
Release lever.
2. Rear cable to connector. 0 Lower vehicle. See Section OA.
0 Parking brake. See Section 586.
BRAKE LINING INSPECTION
(Figure 14)
lnspect the brake linings at least twice a year when the
wheels are removed (tire rotation, etc.). Check both ends of
the outer shoe by looking in at each end of the caliper.
These are the points at which the highest rate of wear nor-
mally occurs. Also, check the lining thickness of the inner
shoe to make sure that it has not worn prematurely. Look
through the hole in the top of the caliper to view the inner
shoe. When the thickness of any lining is worn to within
0.76
mm (0.030-inch) of the shoe or rivet, all disc brake
shoes and linings should be replaced in axle sets.
All disc brakes have a wear indicator that makes a noise
when the linings wear to a degree where replacement is
required. The wear indicator is an integral part of the shoe
and lining. When the lining is worn, the clip indicator con-
tacts the rotor and produces a warning noise.
Check flatness of brake linings. Place inner shoe lining
and outer shoe lining surfaces together and check for gap
between surfaces. If more than 0.13 mm
(.OO&inch) gap is
measured midway between attaching lugs, shoe and lining
assembly must be replaced. Thickness
Variation Check
Thickness variation can be checked by measuring the
thickness of the rotor at four or more points around the
circumference of the rotor. All measu'rements must be
made at the same distance in from the edge of the rotor. A
rotor that varies by more than
.013 mm (.0005-inch) can
cause pedal pulsation
and/or front end vibration during
brake applications. A rotor that does not meet these specifi-
cations should be refinished to specifications or replaced.
Lateral
Wunout Check (Figure 15)
1. Tighten wheel bearings until all the play is out of the
bearings. See Section 3C.
2. Remove caliper.
3. Fasten a dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that
the indicator button contacts the rotor about
25 mm (1
inch) from the rotor edge.
4. Zero the dial indicator.
5. Move the rotor one complete revolution, and observe
total indicated
runout (T.I.R.).
6. Readjust wheel bearings. See Section 3C.
Figure 14 Lining Inspection