1988 PONTIAC FIERO flat tire

MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION OB-5
Throttle linkage inspection -- Inspect for inter-
ference, binding, damaged or missing parts.
Engine drive belts inspection - Inspect all
belts for cracks, fraying and wear. Adjust or replace as
needed.
Rear axle service (if equipped) - Check gear
lubricant level and add if needed. For cars equipped with a
limited slip rear axle, fluid does not require changing
(except Caprice and Corvette
- change fluid and required
additive at first
7,500 miles (12 500 km). See your
Owner's Manual or "Recommended Fluids
& Lubricants
Chart" in this section.
IF YOU USE YOUR GAR TO PULL A TRAILER,
CHANGE GEAR LUBRICANT EVERY 7,500 MILES
(12 500 KM).
NOTICE: A large loss in this system may indicate a
problem. Have it inspected and repaired at once.
Power antenna - Clean and then lubricate power
antenna mast. The proper lubricant as shown in Figure
OB-2 should be used.
AT LEAST ONCE A YEAR
Lap and shoulder belts condition and opera-
tion
- Inspect belt system, including webbing, buckles,
latch plates, retractors, guide loops and anchors.
Moveable head restraint operation - On cars
with moveable restraints, make sure restraints stay in the
desired position. (See adjustment instructions in your
Owner's Manual.)
Seatback latch and recliner operation on
cars equipped
with recliner seat --- Be sure seat-
backs latch on those cars with folding seats using mechan-
ical latches. Make sure the recliner is holding by pushing
and pulling on the top of the
seatback while it is reclined.
See your Owner's Manual for seat operating information.
Spare tire and jack storage- Be alert to rattles
in rear of car. Make sure the space tire, all jacking equip-
ment, any tire inflator and any covers or doors are securely
stowed at all times. Oil jack ratchet or screw mechanism
after each use.
Key lock service - Lubricate key lock cylinder at
least annually.
Body lubrication service - Lubricate all body
door hinges including the tailgate or hatchback lid (if
equipped). Also lubricate the body hood, fuel door and
rear compartment hinges and latches including interior
glove box and counsel doors, and any folding seat
hardware.
"Fansmissionltransaxle neutral or clutch
starl switch operation
CAUnON: Before pedorming the follow-
ing safety switch check, be sure to have
enough room around the car. Then, firmly
apply both the parking brake (see your
Owner's Manual for procedure) and the
regular brakes. Do not use the accelerator pedal.
If the engine
starls, be ready to turn
off the ignition promptly. Take these pre-
cautions because the car could move
without warning and possibly cause per-
sonal injury or properly damage. On auto-
matic transmissionltransaxle cars, try to
starl the engine in each gear. The starler
should crank only in "Park" or "Neutral."
On manual transmissionltransaxle cars,
place the
shiR lever in "Neutral," push the
clutch halfway and try to starl. The starler
should crank only when the clutch is fully
depressed.
Steering column lock operation
- While
parked, try to turn key to "Lock" in each gear range. The
key should turn to "Lock" only when gear is in "Park" on
automatic or "Reverse" on manual
transmissionltransax-
le. On cars with key release lever, try to turn key toULock"
without depressing the lever. The key should turn to
"Lock" only with the key lever depressed. On all vehicles,
the key should come out only in "Lock."
Parking brake and transmissionltransaxle
"Park" mechanism operation
CAUT1ON:Before checking the holding
ability of the parking brake and automatic
transmissionltransaxle "Park" mecha-
nism, park on a fairly steep hill with
enough room for movement in the down-
hill direction. To reduce the risk of person-
al injury or property damage, be prepared
to apply the regular brakes promptly if the
car begins to move.
To check the parking brake, with the engine running and
transmission/transaxle in "Neutral." slowly remove foot
pressure from the regular brake pedal (until the car is held
by only the parking brake).
To check the automatic transmissionltransaxle "Park"
mechanism holding ability, release all brakes after shift-
ing the transmissionltransaxle to "Park."
ljnderbody flushing - At least every spring,
tlush from the underbody with plain water any corrosive
materials used for ice and snow removal and dust control.
Take care to thoroughly clean any areas where mud and
other debris can collect.
Sediment packed in closed areas
of the vehicle should be loosened before being flushed.
Engine cooling system service - Inspect
coolant and freeze protection. If dirty or rusty, drain, flush
and refill with new coolant. Keep coolant
at the proper
mixture as specified in your Owner's Manual. This pro-
vides proper freeze protection. corrosion inhibitor level
and engine operating temperature. Inspect hoses and re-
place if cracked. swollen or deteriorated. Tighten hose
clamps. Clean outside of radiator and air conditioning
condensor. Wash radiator filler cap and neck.
To help
ensure proper operation. a pressure test of both the cooling
system and cap is also recommended. (See maintenance
schedule charts in Figure
OB-l for the recommended
coolant change interval.)

3.4 STEERING, SUSPENSION, TIRES AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS
e Excessive pitman shaft to ball nut lash in steering
gear
e Worn intermediate rod or tie rod sockets
Excessive Looseness in Tie Rod or Intermediate
Rod Pivots, or Excessive Vertical Lash in
Idler
Support
Inspect -
e Seal damage and leakage resulting in loss of
lubricant, corrosion and excessive wear
Hard Steering
0 Inspect
e Tight or frozen intermediate rod, tie rod or idler
socket
e Steering gear adjusted too tight
POWER STEERING PUMP DIAGNOSIS
Foarning, Milky Power Steering Fluid, Low Fluid
Level, and Possible Low Pressure
This can be caused by air in the fluid, and loss of
fluid due to internal pump leakage causing overflow.
Check for leak and correct. Bleed the system.
Extremely cold temperatures will cause air bubbles in
the system if the fluid level is low. If the fluid level is
correct and pump still foams, remove pump from car
and separate reservoir from housing. Check soft plug
and housing for cracks. If housing is cracked, replace
housing.
Low Pressure Due to Steering Pump
Inspect
e Flow control valve stuck or inoperative
e Pressure plate not flat against cam ring
e Extreme wear of cam ring
e Scored pressure plate, thrust plate or rotor
e Vanes sticking in rotor slots
Q Cracked or broken thrust or pressure plate
e High internal leakage
Low Pressure Due To Steering Gear
Inspect
e Scored housing bore
Q Leakage at valve rings or seals
Growling Noise in Steering Pump
Inspect
e Excessive back pressure in hoses or steering gear
caused by restriction
e Scored pressure plates, thrust plate or rotor
e Worn cam ring
Groaning Noise in Steering Pump
Inspect
e Air in the fluid
Low fluid level
Q Pump mounting loose
Rattling Noise in Steering Pump
Inspect - -
e Vanes sticking in rotor slots
o Vane improperly installed
o Damaged ball bearing
Swishing Noise in Steering Pump
inspect
e Damaged flow control valve
Whining Noise in Steering Pump
Inspect
Q Pump shaft bearing scored
e Scored pressure plates and vanes
STEERING COLUMN DIAGNOSIS
LOCK SYSTEM
Will Not Unlock
Inspect
o Shear flange on sector shaft collapsed
Q Damaged lock bolt
e Damaged lock cylinder
o Damaged housing
e Damaged sector
e Damaged rack
e Damaged park lock cable
Will Not Lock
Inspect
Lock bolt spring broken or worn
Damaged sector
Damaged lock cylinder
Burr on lock bolt
Damaged housing
Improper shift linkage adjustment
Damaged rack
Interference between bowl and rack coupling
Ignition switch stuck
Actuator rod restricted
Sector installed incorrectly
Park lock cable damaged

STEERING, SUSPENSION, TIRES AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS 3.13
in doubt about the condition, compare with a
shock known to be good.
Noisy
For struts, follow Steps 1 through 3.
1. Check all mountings for proper torque. A loose
mounting will cause a noise.
2. If all mountings are intact, bounce the car as in
Step
4 (weak) to isolate the suspected unit.
3. If practical, ride with the owner to be sure you
understand the complaint, before proceeding to
next step.
4. If one of the rear shocks is noisy, the rear axle
should be supported at least enough to unload the
shock mounts. Disconnect the lower mounting of
the suspected shock. Quickly push the shock all
the way in, then all the way out.
A hissing noise
is normal.
5. Other objectionable noises may be detected by
stroking. Any sound other
than hissing is
abnormal; replace the shock.
Leaks
1. Fully extend the strut/shocks (wheels
unsupported) to expose the seal cover area for
inspection.
2. Look for
signs of leaks in the seal cover area.
3. A slight trace of fluid is NOT cause for
replacement; the seal permits some seepage to
lubricate the piston rod. There is a built in fluid
reserve to allow for seepage.
4. A leaking strut dampener/shock can easily be
found because there will be fluid around the seal
cover and an excessive amount of fluid on the
strut
dampener/shock. A leaking strut
dampener/shock must be replaced.
BENCH CHECKS
Strut Dampeners and Regular Shock Absorbers
(Standard and Firm Ride)
Regular strut dampenerdrear shocks use a
gas-filled cell in the fluid reservoir. Aeration or
foaming of the fluid is eliminated, as the gas and the
fluid cannot mix.
Proceed with the actual bench check as follows:
1. Clamp the strut dampener/shock UPSIDE
DOWN in the vise. Do not clamp on the reservoir
tube or the mounting threads. If a lag is noticed
when it is stroked, it means the gas-filled cell has
ruptured and replacement is necessary.
2. Pump strut dampener/shock by hand at various
rates of speed and note the resistance.
3. Rebound resistance normally is stronger than
compression resistance by about 2 to 1. However,
the resistance should be smooth and constant for
each stroking rate.
4. Compare with a strut dampener/ shock known to
be good.
5. It is normal to hear a hissing noise. The following
symptoms are abnormal and are reason for
replacement. A.
A skip or lag at reversal near mid-stroke.
B. A seize (except at either extreme end of
travel).
C. A noise (such as a grunt or squeal) after
completing one full stroke in both
directions.
D. A clicking noise at fast reversal.
E. Fluid leakage.
TIRE DIAGNOSIS
Irregular and Premature Wear
Figs. 14 and 15
Irregular and premature tire wear has many
causes. Some of them are: incorrect inflation pressures,
lack of regular rotation, driving habits, or improper
wheel alignment. If wheel alignment is reset due to a
tire wear condition, always reset toe as close to zero
degrees as the specification allows.
1. WEAR INDICATORS I
Fig. 14 Tire Wear Indicator
If the following conditions are noted, rotate the
tires:
@ Front tire wear is different from rear.
Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire.
e Left and right front tire wear is unequal.
Left and right rear tire wear is unequal.
Check wheel alignment if the following
conditions are noted:
e Left and right front tire wear is unequal.
Wear is uneven across the tread of any front tire.
e Front tire treads have a scuffed appearance with
"feather" edges on one side of the tread ribs or
blocks.
Wear Indicators
Fig. 16
The original equipment tires have built-in tread
wear indicators to show when the tires should be
replaced. These indicators will appear as 12.7 mm
(1/2") wide bands when the tire tread depth becomes
1.6 mm (2/32"). When the indicators appear in 2 or
more grooves at
3 locations, replace the tire.

3-14 STEERING, SUSPENSION, TIRES AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS
@ HARD CORNERING O UNDER INFLATION LACK OF ROTATION
@ HEAVY ACCELERATION ON DRIVE AXLE EXCESSIVE TOE ON DRIVE AXLE EXCESSIVE TOE ON NON-DRIVE AXLE @ LACK OF ROTATION O LACK. OF ROTAT ION
Fig. 15 Tire Wear Diagnosis
Radial Tire Waddle
Fig. 17
Waddle is side-to-side movement at the front
and/or rear of the car. It can be caused by the steel belt
not being straight within the tire, or by excessive lateral
runout of the tire or wheel. It ig most noticeable at low
speed, about 8 to 48
km/h (5 to 30 mph). It may also
appear as a ride roughness at 80 to 113
km/h (50 to 70
mph). The car can be road tested to see which end of the
car has the faulty tire. If the tire causing the waddle is
on the rear, the rear end of the car will "waddle." From
the driver's seat, it feels as if someone is pushing on the
side of the car.
If the faulty tire is on the front, the waddle is
more easily seen. The front sheet metal appears to be
moving back and forth. It feels as if the driver's seat is
the pivot point in the car.
Another more time-consuming method of
determining the faulty tire is substituting tire and
wheel assemblies that are known to be good. Follow
these steps:
1. Drive the car to determine if the waddle is coming
from the front or rear.
2. Install tire and wheel assemblies known to be
good (from a similar car) in place of those on the
end of the car which is waddling. If the waddle
cannot be isolated to front or rear, start with the
rear tires.
3. Road test again. If improvement is noted, install
the original tire and wheel assemblies one at a
time until the faulty tire is found. If no
improvement is noted, install tires known to be
good in place of all four. Then, install the
originals one at a time until the faulty tire is
found.
Radial Tire Lead/Pull
Fig. 18
"Lead/Pull" is the deviation of the car from a
straight path, on a level road with no pressure
on the
steering wheel.
L Fig. 16 Tire Waddle
Lead is usually caused by:
1. Tire construction.
2. Uneven brake adjustment.
3. Wheel alignment.
The way in which a tire is built can produce lead
in a car. An example of this is placement of the belt.
Off-center belts on radial tires can cause the tire to
develop a side force while rolling straight down the
road. The tire will tend to roll like a cone.
The Radial Tire
Lead/Pull Correction Chart
should be used to make sure that front wheel alignment
is not mistaken for tire lead.
Rear tires will not cause lead.
VIBRATION DIAGNOSIS
See Figs. 19 through 21 for vibration diagnosis.
TAPERED ROLLER BEARING
DlAGNOSlS
See Figs. 22 and 23 for Tapered Roller Bearing
Diagnosis.
See Fig. 24 for Trim Height Diagnosis.

3-18 STEERING, SUSPENSION, TIRES AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS
VIBRATION COMPLANT TIRE-WHEEL-HUB-AXLE RELATED
Vibrations that are tire or wheel induced can be caused
by two factors: imbalance or
runout. Low-speed vibrations, those less than 40 mph, are
usually runout related. Highway speed vibrations, those
above 40 mph, can be caused by either imbalance or runout. Prior to performing any work, always road test the car
and perform a careful visual inspection for:
- Obvious tire and wheel runout. - Obvious drive 'axle or propeller shaft runout. - Proper inflation pressure. - Wrong trim height. - Bent wheels. - Debris build-up on the tire or wheel. - Loose or missing wheel weights or wheel nuts. - Irregular or excessive tire wear. - Proper tire bead seating on rim. - Damaged tires, such as tread distortions,
separations, or bulges from impact damage. Slight sidewall indentations are normal and will not affect
ride quality.
Balance is the easiest procedure to perform and should,
therefore, be done fist if the vibration occurs at highway
speeds.
An off-car two-plane dynamic balance should first
be performed. This will correct any imbalance in the tire and
wheel assembly.
An oncar fiish balance may also be required. This will correct any brake drum, rotor, or wheel cover imbalance.
Follow the balancing procedures outlined in Section 3E. If balance does not correct the highway speed vibration,
or if the vibration is at low speeds, runout is the probable
cause. Runout can be caused by the tire, wheel, or the way
the wheel attaches to the car. The following procedure
should be used
: A. If runout is suspected, the free runout of the tire
and wheel assembly should first be measured on the car. A
dial indicator with a roller wheel is preferable, but a dial
indicator with button end may be used. Lateral
runout (side
to side) should be measured on the tire's sidewall as close to
the tread shoulder as possible. Radial
runout (up and down)
should be measured on the center tread rib. Some tread
designs may require tightly wrapping a piece of tape around
the center tread circumference for better dial indicator
contact. For measuring wheel
runout follow the "Measuring
Wheel Runout" procedure in Section 3E. Whether measuring
radial or lateral runout, disregard any instantaneous indicator
needle jumps due to sidewall depressions, tread blocks, etc.
Record the total indicator reading, and the location of the
high point of
runout. The,,total tire and wheel oncar runout should be less than ,060 , if either measurement exceeds ,060"~ proceed to Step B.
B. If
the oncy radial or lateral runout measured in
Step A exceeds .060 , mount the tire and wheel assembly on
a dynamic balance machine and again measure the amount of runout. Locate on the machine by the wheel's inside center
pilot hole. Using the same procedure as in Step A, record the
amount of tire and wheel
runout and its high point Location.
Next, measure wheel runout, see Section 3E. If the wheel
exceeds specifications replace the ~heel.,~If the tire and wheel
radial or lateral runout exceeds .050 at the tire tread,
proceed to Step C.
C. If the off-car tire and wheel radial or lateral runout measured in Step 18 exceeds .050", match mount the high radial runout point of tire to low radial runout point of
wheel. Weinflate, mount on the dynamic balance machine,
and again measure and record the radial and lateral runout and its location, as done in Step B. In many cases, match
mounting the tire on the wheel will bring the assembly's
runout into the acceptable range of less than .050". D. If the runout of the tire and wheel assembly is
within limits when measured off the car, yet exceeds the
limits when measured on the car, the attachment of the tire
and wheel assembly to the hub is the probable cause. Rotate
the assembly two wheel studs and recheck the
runout. Several positions may have to be tried to find the best
location.
E. If the assembly runout cannot be reduced to an
acceptable level, remove the tire and wheel assembly and
measure wheel stud
runout with a dial indicator. Zero
the dial indicator button on one stud. Lift button gently
off stud and rotate flange to position next stud against
dial indicator button. Record the
runout on all studs. Dial indicator should read zero when repositioned on first stud
that was checked. If runout exceeds .030", the hub or axle
shaft should be replaced.
Whenever a tire is rotated on the wheel, or a tire or
wheel is replaced, the assembly must be rebalanced.
In addition to balance and tire and wheel free
runout, tire stiffness variation (loaded radial runout) can also cause
a vibration. However, this is impossible to measure without
a TPD (Tire Problem Detector) or a loaded radial
runout buffer.
The TPD is a roller drum that slowly rotates the tire
while under load and mounted on the car. Tire stiffness
variation causes wheel spindle movement which can be
measured.
The loaded radial
runout buffer is a more automated
machine that slowly rotates the tire and wheel off the car
under load with a roller drum and measures the tire's
stiffness variation. It will then "match" the tire to the wheel
by buffing off small amounts of rubber from the outer tread
rows at the stiff spot. This procedure is usually effective,
especially when used
as a measuring device and for fine
buffing only.
The
TPD and loaded radial runout buffer are two
methods that will measure or correct tire stiffness variation,
tire
runout, and wheel runout at the same time. However,
because such equipment is not always available, and both
have their disadvantages, the more basic procedure of
measuring free
runout with a dial indicator, as previously
detailed, is usually more practical. The free runout of the
tire will usually correspond with the tire's stiff spot.
The substitution method of vibration diagnosis can also
be used. Install
a known good set of tire and wheel
assemblies. If these correct the vibration, the original
assemblies should be reinstalled one at
a time until the
vibration returns. This will point out the tire with excess
stiffness variation.
Tire stiffness variation will be higher or lower depending
on the direction of tire rotation.
Fig. 20 Vibration Complaint Chart (2 of 2)

-
WHEEL. ALIGNMENT 3A-1
SECTION 3A
WHEEL AL GNMENT
NOTICE: These fasteners are important attaching Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or
parts, in that they could affect the performance of substitute
design. Torque values must be used as
vital components and systems, and/or could result specified during reassembly to assure proper
in major repair expense. They must be replaced retention of these parts. For prevailing torque
with one of the same part number or with an
nut(s) and bolt(s), refer to the "Reuse of Prevailing
equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. torque
Nut(s) and Bolt(s)" chart in Section 0.
General Description ...................... .. ...... 3A- 1 On-Car Service ........................ .. ........... 3A-2
Caster .................... .. ............................ 3A- 1 Caster and Camber Adjustment .................. 3A-2
..................................... Camber ................... .. .............................. 3A-I Toe-In Adjustment 3A-2
Toe.. ................................................. 3A- 1 Axle Housing Alignment ......................... .... 3A-4
Preliminary Checks Prior to Specifications ....................... ... ............... 3A-4
Adjusting Alignment ..................... ...... 3A- 1
GENERAL DESCRIPmIOMI
Wheel alignment refers to the angular they tend to roll parallel on the road when the car is
relationship between the wheels, the suspension moving.
attaching parts and the ground.
PRELIMINARY CHECKS PRIOR TO ADJUSTING
CASTER ALIGNMENT
Figure 1
Caster is the amount the top of the strut is tilted
forward or rearward from the vertical. When the strut
tilts rearward, the center is "positive"
(+). The
amount of tilt is measured in degrees from vertical.
CAMBER
Figure 1
Camber is the tilting of the wheels from the
vertical when viewed from the front of the car. When
the wheels tilt outward at the top, the camber is said
to be positive
(+). When the wheels tilt inward at the
top, the camber is said to be negative
(-). The amount
of tilt is measured in degrees from the vertical and this
measurement is called the camber angle.
TOE
Figure i
Toe is a measurement of how much the front of
the wheels are turned in or out from a straight-ahead
position. When the wheels are turned in, toe is
"positive"
(+). When the wheels are turned out, toe
is "negative"
(-). The actual amount of toe-in is
normally only a fraction of a degree. The purpose of a
toe specification is to ensure parallel rolling of the
wheels (excessive toe-in or toe-out may increase tire
wear). Toe also serves to offset the small deflections of
the wheel support system which occur when the car is
rolling forward. In other words, even when the wheels
are set to toe-in slightly when the car is standing still, Steering
and vibration complaints are not always
the result of improper alignment. Another possibility
is tire "lead" due to worn or improperly manufactured
tires. "Lead" is the deviation of the car from a straight
path on a level road without hand pressure on the
steering wheel. Section
3 of this manual contains a
procedure for determining the presence of a tire lead
problem.
Before making any adjustment affecting wheel
alignment, make the following checks to ensure correct
alignment readings and alignment adjustments:
1. Check all tires for proper inflation pressures and
approximately the same tread wear.
2. Hub and bearing assemblies for excessive wear;
correct if necessary.
3. Ball joints and tie rod ends; if they are excessively
lcose, correct them before adjusting.
4. Run-out of wheels and tires.
5. Car trim height; if out of limits and a correction
is to be made, do so before adjusting alignment.
Refer to Section
3 for trim height specifications.
6. Strut dampeners for proper operation.
7. Control arms for loose bushings.
8. Loose or missing stabilizer bar attachments.
Consideration must be given to excess loads, such
as tool boxes, sample cases, etc. If these items are
normally carried in the car, they should remain in the
car during alignment adjustments. Consideration
should also be given to the condition of the equipment
used to adjust alignment. Be sure to follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions. Regardless
of

387-2 POWER STEERING
The effect of improperly adjusted worm thrust
bearings or an improperly adjusted over-center preload
could cause a handling stability complaint.
To properly adjust the power steering gear, the
assembly MUST be removed from the vehicle and
adjustments performed as outlined.
For removal of the power steering gear assembly
see "Power Steering Gear".
DRIVE BELT TENSION
All drive belt tension specifications can be found
in the Engine Cooling Section 6B.
When adjusting a power steering pump belt,
never pry against the pump reservoir or pull against the
filler neck. Two systems are used for belt adjustment.
On some
models, the pump is loosened from the
bracket and moved outward to increase the tension. On
other models, a half-inch square drive hole is located
in the bracket, and this hole is used to rotate the
pump-and-bracket assembly outward to increase belt
tension.
Place belt tension gage, J-23600 or equivalent
midway between the pulleys on drive belt being
checked.
POWER SKERING ADAPER GAGE J-5176-01 J-22326
PRESSURE HOSE TO
P/S GEAR PRESSURE HOSE
Figure 387-1 Test Gage Installation
To adjust pump:
1.
Loosen the pump attaching bolts and adjust the
belt to correct tension by moving the pump
outward, away from the engine.
2. Snug all pump mounting bolts and remove pry
bar.
3. Tighten all pump mounting bolts to specified
torque.
4. Check belt tension using the tension gage.
NOTICE: Do not move pump by prying against
reservoir or by pulling on filler neck, or damage
may occur.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM CHECKS
The following procedure outlines methods to
identify and isolate power steering hydraulic circuit difficulties.
The test provides means of determining
whether power steering system hydraulic parts are
actually
defective.
Before performing hydraulic circuit test,
carefully check belt tension, fluid level and condition
of driving pulley.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM TEST
(Figure 387- lj
Fluid must be at normal operating temperature.
Check front tires for correct pressure. All tests are
made with engine idling. If necessary, adjust engine
idle speed to correct specifications listed in Section 6C
and proceed as follows:
1. Stop engine, disconnect pressure hose from pump
and install Tool
5-5176 using a spare pressure
hose between gage and pump. Gage must be
between shut-off valve and pump. Open shut-off
valve.
2. Remove filler cap from pump reservoir and check
fluid level. Fill pump reservoir to full mark on dip
stick. Start engine and, momentarily holding
steering wheel against stop, check connections at
Tool J-5 176 for leakage.
3. Bleed system as outlined under Maintenance and
Adjustments.
4. Insert thermometer (Tool J-5421) in reservoir
filler opening. Move
/steering (wheel/ from stop to
stop several times until thermometer indicates
that hydraulic fluid in reservoir has reached
temperature of
150" to 170°F (65" to 77°C).
N OTI G E: To prevent scrubbing flat spots on tires,
do not turn steering wheel more than five times
without rolling vehicle to change tire-to-floor
contact area. Front end of vehicle can be lifted for
this test.
5. Start engine and check fluid level, adding fluid if
required. When engine is at normal operating
temperature, the initial pressure read on the gage
(valve open) should be in the 80-125 psi (550-860
kPa) range. Should this pressure be in excess of
200 psi (1380
kPa) - check the hoses for
restrictions and the poppet valve for proper
assembly.
6. Close gate valve fully
3 times. Record the highest
pressures attained each time.
N OTI C E: Do not leave valve fully closed for more
than
5 seconds as the pump could be damaged
internally.
a. If
the pressures recorded are within the
listed specs and the range of readings are
within 50 psi (345
kPa), the pump is
functioning within specs.
b. If the pressures recorded are high, but do
not repeat within 50 PSI (345
kPa), the flow
controlling valve is sticking. Remove the
valve, clean it and remove any burrs using

FRONT SUSPENSION 3C-7
L~urrr Csnwd Armlail Spring-Replmmmt
1. Rrire vehicle using s hoist.
2. Rmwe wheel md tire.
3. Rmwe staMlizar link md krdrinm at L.C.A. 1. Rmwe pivot bdt nuts. DO NOT remove
pivot bdU at this time. 5. Instal 5-23028 drptor to jjrck and pljrce into paition with 5.23028 urpporting krdrinw. 6. Install jrckstcmd undsr wUi& frme rail on oppolite side of vehicle. 7. RrJre 5-a028 enough to remwe both pivot bolts. 8. Lowr 5-23028 crretully, rr drown below. 9. Rmove wring and insulator te inruleto! to spring.
10. Rmwe ball joint from knuckle using 5-24292A as wllined erdier. 11. Rqlrce $uhin@ in L.C.A. 12. Install prm in wane order of removal.
FRONT CROSSMEMBER
SPRING TO BE INSTALLED
WlTH TAPE AT
LOWEST POSITION'BOTTOM OF SPRING IS
COILED HELICAL, AND THE TOP IS COILED
FLAT
WlTH A GRIPPER NOTCH NEAR END
OF WIRE.
LOWER CONTROL
AFTER ASSEMBLY, END OF SPRING
ARM COIL MUST COVER ALL OR PART OF
ONE INSPECTION DRAIN HOLE. THE
OTHER HOLE MUST BE PARTLY
EXPOSED OR COMPLETELY UNCOVERED.
FRONT
CROSSMEMBER

BOLT MUST BE INSTALLED
DIRECTION SHOWN.
INSTALL THE FRONT LEG
OF THE LOWER
CONTROL ARM INTO THE CROSSMEMBER
PRIOR TO INSTALLING THE REAR LEG.
CONTROL ARM MUST BE POSITIONED
TO
"2" CURB HEIGHT DIMENSION
WHEN BOLTS ARE TORQUED.
520087-3C
Fig. 607 Removing and Installing Coil Spring/LCA