1988 OPEL CALIBRA check engine light

10Throttle pedal - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Working inside the vehicle, remove the
lower trim panel from the driver’s footwell.
2Slide the cable retainer from the bracket on
the top of the pedal, and disconnect the cable
end from the pedal.
3Extract the circlip from the right-hand end
of the pedal pivot shaft, then slide out the
pivot shaft from the left-hand side of the pivot
bracket (see illustration). Recover the pivot
bushes and the pedal return spring.
4Examine the pivot bushes for wear, and
renew if necessary.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion check the throttle mechanism for
satisfactory operation, and check the throttle
cable adjustment, as described in Section 11.
11Throttle cable - removal,
refitting and adjustment
3
Removal
1Remove the air cleaner, on early models.
On later models, disconnect the air trunking
from the air cleaner, then disconnect the
vacuum pipe and breather hose from the airbox. Extract the three securing screws and lift
off the air box, complete with air trunking(see
illustration).
2Extract the clip from the cable end fitting at
the bracket on the carburettor, then slide the
cable end grommet from the bracket (see
illustrations).
3Slide the cable end from the throttle valve
lever on the carburettor.
4Working inside the vehicle, remove the
lower trim panel from the driver’s footwell.
5Slide the cable retainer from the bracket on
the top of the pedal, and disconnect the cable
end from the pedal.
6Make a careful note of the cable routing,
then withdraw the cable through the bulkhead
into the engine compartment.Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
8Ensure that the cable is correctly routed, as
noted before removal.
9Ensure that the bulkhead grommet is
correctly seated in its hole.
Adjustment
10On completion, check the throttle
mechanism for satisfactory operation, and if
necessary adjust the cable, as described in
the following paragraphs.
11Two points of cable adjustment are
provided. A stop screw is located on the
pedal arm to control the fully released position
of the pedal stop (see illustration).A clip is
located on a threaded section of the cable
sheath at the bracket on the carburettor, to
adjust the cable free play.12The cable should be adjusted so that
when the throttle pedal is released, there is
very slight free play in the cable at the
carburettor end.
13Check that when the throttle pedal is fully
depressed, the throttle valve is fully open.
Adjust the position of the clip on the cable
sheath, and the pedal stop screw, to achieve
the desired results.
12Carburettor - general
1The Pierburg 2E3 carburettor is of twin-
venturi, fixed-jet sequential throttle type. The
primary throttle valve operates alone except
at high engine speeds and loads, when the
secondary throttle valve is operated, until at
full-throttle, both are fully open. This
arrangement allows good fuel economy
during light acceleration and cruising, but also
gives maximum power at full-throttle. The
secondary throttle valve is vacuum-operated,
according to the vacuum produced in the
primary venturi. The primary throttle barrel
and venturi diameters are smaller than their
secondary counterparts. The carburettor is a
complicated instrument, with various
refinements and sub-systems added to
achieve improved driveability, economy and
exhaust emission levels(see illustrations).
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•5
11.2A Extract the throttle cable end
clip . . .
12.1A Side view of carburettor, showing
accelerator pump (1) and main choke pull-
down diaphragm unit (2)11.11 Throttle pedal stop screw11.2B . . .and slide the grommet from the
bracket
11.1 Removing an air box securing screw10.3 Throttle pedal pivot assembly. Circlip
arrowed
4A

Fast idle cam position
20With the bi-metal housing removed, and
the choke valve gap “B”, correctly set,
continue as follows.
21Open the throttle valve, then close the
choke valve using light finger pressure on the
choke drive lever (see illustration). Close the
throttle valve.
22Check that the fast idle speed adjustment
screw is resting against the stop on the
second highest step of the fast idle cam.
23If adjustment is required, first check that
the choke return spring is correctly
positioned, then adjust by bending the
adjustment lever.
24Refit the bi-metal housing, as described in
paragraphs 10 to 14 of this Section.
Fast idle speed
Note: To carry out the adjustment, an
accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas
analyser (CO meter) will be required
25Check the idle speed and mixture, as
described in Section 14. The idle speed must
be correct before attempting to check or
adjust the fast idle speed.
26With the engine at normal operating
temperature, and a tachometer connected
according to the equipment manufacturer’s
instructions, continue as follows.
27Position the fast idle speed adjustment
screw on the second highest step of the fast
idle cam (see illustration).
28Start the engine without touching the
throttle pedal, and check that the fast idle
speed is as specified. If adjustment is
required, stop the engine and continue as
follows.29Remove the tamperproof cap from the
fast idle speed adjustment screw, ensure that
no local or national laws are being broken by
doing so (see illustration).
30Ensure that the adjustment screw is still
resting on the second highest step of the fast
idle cam, then start the engine, again without
touching the throttle pedal.
31Turn the adjustment screw using a
screwdriver, until the specified fast idle speed
is obtained.
32If the cooling fan cuts in during the
adjustment procedure, stop the adjustments,
and continue when the cooling fan stops.
33On completion of adjustment, stop the
engine and disconnect the tachometer.
34Fit a new tamperproof cap to the fast idle
speed adjustment screw, where this is
required by law.
20Automatic choke vacuum
pull-down units - removal,
refitting and adjustment
3
Main diaphragm unit
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A
new star clip must be used when refitting the
diaphragm unit. Test vacuum units as
described in Section 16, paragraph 1.
Removal
1Proceed as described in Section 17,
paragraphs 1 and 2.
2Disconnect the diaphragm unit vacuum
pipes.
3Using a pin punch, tap out the roll pin
securing the diaphragm unit to the carburettor
top cover.
4Note the position of the bi-metal housing
alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if
necessary making additional marks for clarity,
then remove the three securing screws, and
lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing
to one side, taking care not to strain the
coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring.
4A•10Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models
19.18 Choke valve gap adjustment
1 Choke operating lever
2 Adjuster segment
B Choke valve gap
19.21 Fast idle cam adjustment
1 Fast idle cam
2 Adjustment lever
3 Choke drive lever
4 Fast idle speed adjustment screw
19.29 Tamperproof cap (arrowed) fast idle speed adjustment
screw19.27 Fast idle speed adjustment
3 Fast idle speed adjustment screw
4 Screw positioned on second highest step of cam

1General information and
precautions
The electrical system is of 12-volt negative
earth type. Power for the lights and all
electrical accessories is supplied by a
lead/acid type battery, which is charged by
the alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for the various electrical
components not associated with engine.
Information on the battery, alternator and
starter motor can be found in Chapter 5.
It should be noted that, before working on
any component in the electrical system, the
battery negative terminal should first be
disconnected, to prevent the possibility of
electrical short-circuits and/or fires.
Whenever the occasion arises, carefully
check the routing of the wiring harness,
ensuring that it is correctly secured by the
clips or ties provided so that it cannot chafe
against other components. Carefully check
points such as the clutch cable bracket,
clutch housing and harness support bracket,
the inlet manifold, the horn mounting bracket,
the starter motor terminals, and the rear
bumper and number plate lamp.
If evidence is found of the harness having
chafed against other components, repair the
damage and ensure that the harness is
secured or protected so that the problem
cannot occur again.
2Electrical fault-finding -
general information
Note:Refer to the precautions given in “Safety
first!” (at the beginning of this manual) and to
Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.
The following tests relate to testing of the main
electrical circuits, and should not be used to
test delicate electronic circuits (such as anti-
lock braking systems), particularly where an
electronic control module is used.
A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers
related to that component, and the wiring and
connectors that link the component to boththe battery and the chassis. To help to
pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit,
wiring diagrams are included at the end of this
Chapter.
Before attempting to diagnose an electrical
fault, first study the appropriate wiring
diagram, to obtain a complete understanding
of the components included in the particular
circuit concerned. The possible sources of a
fault can be narrowed down by noting
whether other components related to the
circuit are operating properly. If several
components or circuits fail at one time, the
problem is likely to be related to a shared fuse
or earth connection.
Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a faulty earth connection, a
blown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faulty
relay (refer to Section 3 for details of testing
relays). Visually inspect the condition of all
fuses, wires and connections in a problem
circuit before testing the components. Use
the wiring diagrams to determine which
terminal connections will need to be checked,
to pinpoint the trouble-spot.
The basic tools required for electrical fault-
finding include the following:
a)a circuit tester or voltmeter (a 12-volt bulb
with a set of test leads can also be used
for certain tests).
b)a self-powered test light (sometimes
known as a continuity tester).
c)an ohmmeter (to measure resistance).
d)a battery.
e)a set of test leads.
f)a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit
breaker or fuse incorporated, which can
be used to bypass suspect wires or
electrical components.
Before attempting to locate a problem with
test instruments, use the wiring diagram to
determine where to make the connections.
To find the source of an intermittent wiring
fault (usually due to a poor or dirty
connection, or damaged wiring insulation), a
“wiggle” test can be performed on the wiring.
This involves wiggling the wiring by hand, to
see if the fault occurs as the wiring is moved.
It should be possible to narrow down the
source of the fault to a particular section of
wiring. This method of testing can be used in
conjunction with any of the tests described in
the following sub-Sections.
Apart from problems due to poor
connections, two basic types of fault can
occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit, or
short-circuit.
Open-circuit faults are caused by a break
somewhere in the circuit, which prevents
current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will
prevent a component from working, but will
not cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.
Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short”
somewhere in the circuit, which allows the
current flowing in the circuit to “escape” along
an alternative route, usually to earth. Short-
circuit faults are normally caused by abreakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a
feed wire to touch either another wire, or an
earthed component such as the bodyshell. A
short-circuit fault will normally cause the
relevant circuit fuse to blow.
Finding an open-circuit
To check for an open-circuit, connect one
lead of a circuit tester or voltmeter to either
the negative battery terminal or a known good
earth.
Connect the other lead to a connector in
the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to
the battery or fuse.
Switch on the circuit, remembering that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
If voltage is present (indicated either by the
tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as
applicable), this means that the section of the
circuit between the relevant connector and
the battery is problem-free.
Continue to check the remainder of the
circuit in the same fashion.
When a point is reached at which no
voltage is present, the problem must lie
between that point and the previous test point
with voltage. Most problems can be traced to
a broken, corroded or loose connection.
Finding a short-circuit
To check for a short-circuit, first disconnect
the load(s) from the circuit (loads are the
components that draw current from a circuit,
such as bulbs, motors, heating elements, etc.).
Remove the relevant fuse from the circuit,
and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to the
fuse connections.
Switch on the circuit, remembering that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
If voltage is present (indicated either by the
tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as
applicable), this means that there is a short-
circuit.
If no voltage is present, but the fuse still
blows with the load(s) connected, this indicates
an internal fault in the load(s).
Finding an earth fault
The battery negative terminal is connected
to “earth” (the metal of the
engine/transmission and the car body), and
most systems are wired so that they only
receive a positive feed. The current returning
through the metal of the car body. This means
that the component mounting and the body
form part of that circuit. Loose or corroded
mountings can therefore cause a range of
electrical faults, ranging from total failure of a
circuit, to a puzzling partial fault. In particular,
lights may shine dimly (especially when
another circuit sharing the same earth point is
in operation). Motors (e.g. wiper motors or the
radiator cooling fan motor) may run slowly,
and the operation of one circuit may have an
affect on another. Note that on many vehicles,
earth straps are used between certain
components, such as the engine/transmission
and the body, usually where there is no metal-
12•2Body electrical systems
Warning: Before carrying out
any work on the electrical
system, read through the
precautions given in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of this manual, and
in Chapter 5.
Caution:If the radio/cassette player fitted
to the vehicle is one with an anti-theft
security code, as the standard unit is, refer
to “Radio/cassette player anti-theft system
- precaution”in the Reference Section of
this manual before disconnecting the
battery.

to-metal contact between components, due
to flexible rubber mountings, etc.
To check whether a component is properly
earthed, disconnect the battery, and connect
one lead of an ohmmeter to a known good
earth point. Connect the other lead to the wire
or earth connection being tested. The
resistance reading should be zero; if not,
check the connection as follows.
If an earth connection is thought to be
faulty, dismantle the connection, and clean
back to bare metal both the bodyshell and the
wire terminal or the component earth
connection mating surface. Be careful to
remove all traces of dirt and corrosion, then
use a knife to trim away any paint, so that a
clean metal-to-metal joint is made. On
reassembly, tighten the joint fasteners
securely; if a wire terminal is being refitted,
use serrated washers between the terminal
and the bodyshell, to ensure a clean and
secure connection. When the connection is
remade, prevent the onset of corrosion in the
future by applying a coat of petroleum jelly or
silicone-based grease.
3Fuses and relays - general
Fuses
1Fuses are designed to break a circuit when
a predetermined current is reached, to protect
the components and wiring which could be
damaged by excessive current flow. Any
excessive current flow will be due to a fault in
the circuit, usually a short-circuit (Section 2).
2The main fuses and relays are located in a
panel at the lower right-hand side of the facia,
under a hinged cover (see illustration).
3The circuits protected by the various fuses
and relays are marked on the inside of the
panel cover.
4A blown fuse can be recognised from its
melted or broken wire.
5To remove a fuse, first ensure that the
relevant circuit is switched off. Then open the
cover and pull the relevant fuse or relay from the
panel (see illustration). If desired, the lower
end of the panel can be tilted forwards, after
releasing the retaining clips to improve access. 6Before renewing a blown fuse, trace and
rectify the cause, and always use a fuse of the
correct rating. Never substitute a fuse of a
higher rating, or make temporary repairs using
wire or metal foil, as more serious damage or
even fire could result.
7Spare fuses are provided in the blank
terminal positions in the fusebox.
8Note that the fuses are colour-coded, see
Specifications. Refer to the wiring diagrams
for details of the fuse ratings and the circuits
protected.
Relays
9A relay is an electrically operated switch,
which is used for the following reasons:
a)A relay can switch a heavy current
remotely from the circuit in which the
current is flowing, allowing the use of
lighter-gauge wiring and switch contacts.
b)A relay can receive more than one control
input, unlike a mechanical switch.
c)A relay can have a timer function - for
example, the intermittent wiper relay.
10Most of the relays are located at the rear
of the main fusebox (remove the securing
screws and pull the fusebox forwards to
improve access). The rear wiper motor relay is
located in the tailgate, behind the tailgate trim
panel. On some models, additional engine-
related relays are located in the relay box
mounted on the left-hand side of the engine
compartment.
11On certain models, additional relays are
located in a box at the left-hand rear of the
engine compartment (see illustration).
12If a circuit or system controlled by a relay
develops a fault, and the relay is suspect,
operate the system. If the relay is functioning, it
should be possible to hear it “click” as it is
energised. If this is the case, the fault lies with
the components or wiring of the system. If the
relay is not being energised, then either the
relay is not receiving a main supply or a
switching voltage, or the relay itself is faulty.
Testing is by the substitution of a known good
unit, but be careful - while some relays are
identical in appearance and in operation, others
look similar but perform different functions.
13To remove a relay, first ensure that the
relevant circuit is switched off. The relay can
then simply be pulled out from the socket,
and pushed back into position.
4Ignition switch and lock
cylinder - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Turn the steering wheel as necessary to
expose the two front steering column shroud
securing screws, which are covered by plastic
caps. Prise out the caps and remove the
screws.
3Remove the three securing screws from the
underside of the lower column shroud, then
remove both the upper and lower shrouds.
4To remove the lock cylinder, insert the
ignition key and turn it to position “II”.
5Insert a thin rod into the hole in the lock
housing, then press the rod to release the
detent spring, and pull out the lock cylinder
using the key.
6The ignition switch is secured to the
steering lock housing by two grub screws.
Disconnect the wiring plug, and remove the
screws to extract the switch (see illustration).
Removal of the steering wheel, may aid
removal. Refer to Chapter 10 or Section 57, as
applicable. It is recommended that the switch
and the lock cylinder are not both removed at
the same time, so that their mutual alignment
is not lost.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Body electrical systems 12•3
3.11 Relays in engine compartment box -
2.0 litre SRi model shown
4.6 Removing an ignition switch securing
screw
3.5 Removing a fuse -
2.0 litre model shown3.2 Main fuses and relays in facia panel -
2.0 litre SRi model shown
12

8Electric door mirror switch -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Prise the plastic surround from the door
interior handle.
3Free the trim panel from the top edge of the
door by releasing the securing clips. This can
be done using a screwdriver, but it is
preferable to use a forked tool, to minimise
the possibility of damage to the trim panel and
the clips.
4Note the position of the mirror switch wiring
connector in the bracket at the top of the
door, then separate the two halves of the
connector.
5Prise the switch from the door trim panel,
and feed the wiring through the panel.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the wiring is correctly routed, so as not to
foul the door interior handle mechanism.
9Sunroof operating switch -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Prise the courtesy lamp from the roof trim
panel, and disconnect the wiring.
3Remove the two trim panel securing
screws, and withdraw the trim panel from the
roof, disconnecting the wiring from the
sunroof operating switch.
4Release the securing clips, then pull the
switch from the rear face of the trim panel.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
10Courtesy lamp switch -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Open the door and remove the switch
securing screw.
3Withdraw the switch from the door pillar,
and pull the wiring out sufficiently to prevent it
from springing back into the pillar.4Disconnect the wiring and remove the
switch.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
11Luggage compartment lamp
switch - removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Open the boot lid or tailgate, as applicable,
and remove the switch securing screw.
3Withdraw the switch from the body panel,
and pull the wiring out sufficiently to prevent it
from springing back into the body.
4Disconnect the wiring and remove the
switch.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
12Brake lamp switch - removal
and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the lower trim panel from the
driver’s footwell.
3Disconnect the wiring plug from the brake
lamp switch, then twist the switch
anti-clockwise and remove it from its bracket.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
13Handbrake “on” warning
lamp switch - removal and
refitting
3
For access to the switch, the handbrake
lever must be removed. Removal and refitting
of the switch is described as part of the
handbrake lever removal and refitting
procedure, in Chapter 9.
14Oil pressure warning lamp
switch - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2The switch is screwed into the oil pump, on
the inlet manifold side of the engine. On 1.4
and 1.6 litre (except C16 NZ2), models the
switch projects at right-angles to the
crankshaft axis, while on C16 NZ2, 1.8 and
2.0 litre models it is parallel to the crankshaft
(see illustration).
3In most cases the switch can be reached
quite easily from above. However, on some
models access will be easier if the front of the
vehicle is jacked up and supported on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
(ensure that the handbrake is securely
applied) and the front right-hand roadwheel is
removed.
4Disconnect the switch wire and use a
spanner to unscrew the switch (see
illustration). As you withdraw the switch,
swiftly plug the hole in the oil pump to
minimise the loss of oil and to prevent the
entry of dirt.
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; tighten the switch securely but do
not overtighten it, reconnect its wire, then
check and if necessary top-up the oil level, as
described in Chapter 1. Wash off any spilt oil
and check for leaks when the engine is
restarted.
15Cigarette lighter - removal
and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Slide the ashtray/cigarette lighter assembly
from the facia, then disconnect the wiring and
slide the illumination bulb from the cigarette
lighter.
Body electrical systems 12•5
14.4 Unscrewing the oil pressure warning
lamp switch -
SOHC model (engine removed)14.2 Oil pressure warning lamp switch
(arrowed) viewed from underneath vehicle
- SOHC model
12
Tape the wiring to the door
pillar, to prevent if falling
back into the door pillar.
Alternatively, tie a piece of
string to the wiring to retrieve it.

27Headlamps -alignment
2
1Correct alignment of the headlamp beams
is most important, not only to ensure good
vision for the driver, but also to protect other
drivers from being dazzled.
2Accurate alignment should be carried out
using optical beam setting equipment.
3In an emergency, adjustments may be
made by turning the adjustment screws
shown (see illustrations). If an adjustment is
made, the alignment should be checked using
beam setting equipment at the earliest
opportunity.
4All 1992-on models are fitted with the
headlamp aim adjustment system, operated
through the facia-mounted switch (see
illustration).
a)Position ‘0’, is for correct alignment if just
the driving seat is occupied.
b)Position ‘1’, if all seats are occupied.
c)Position ‘2’, if all seats occupied and
luggage.
d)Position ‘3’, for just driver and luggage.
28Headlamp dim-dip system -
general, removal and refitting
3
General
1The system (where fitted) is governed by the
dim-dip control unit mounted either behind
and above the glovebox (early models), or
behind the main fuse panel (later models).
2The control unit uses the oil pressure
warning lamp circuit to ensure that, when theengine is running and the sidelamps are
switched on, reduced current is fed to the
headlamp dipped-beam circuits. This lights
the headlamps with approximately one-sixth
of their normal power so that the vehicle
cannot be driven using sidelamps alone.
3To locate the dim-dip control unit, open the
main fuse panel covering flap and unclip it
from its bottom and top mountings (Section 3).
Then use a torch to see whether the unit is
fastened to the plastic bracket behind the facia
and fuse panel. The unit is usually rectangular,
of black plastic, and can be identified by the
colours of the five wires leading to it (see
applicable wiring diagram).
Removal
4If the unit can be seen, remove the driver’s
side lower facia and footwell trim panels
(Chapter 11), then unscrew the four retaining
screws and lower the plastic bracket until the
control unit can be detached.
5If the unit cannot be seen, remove the
glovebox assembly (Chapter 11). The unit will
be fastened to the underside of the facia top
surface.
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
26Headlamp aim adjustment
motor - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Remove the headlamp, (Section 25).
2Twist the motor clockwise to release it from
the headlamp, then carefully disconnect the
motor from the balljoint (see illustrations).
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the motor is correctly engaged with the
balljoint.
12•10Body electrical systems
26.2A Headlamp aim adjustment motor
(headlamp removed)
27.4 The headlamp aim adjustment switch
- 1992-on models
27.3B Headlamp alignment adjustment screws - models with
electric aim adjustment
A Vertical adjustment screw B Horizontal adjustment screw27.3A Headlamp alignment adjustment screws - models without
electric aim adjustment
A Vertical adjustment screw B Horizontal adjustment screw
26.2B Headlamp aim adjuster balljoint
(arrowed)

12•22Body electrical systems
Explanations of abbreviations used in wiring diagrams
ABSAnti-lock braking system
ACAir conditioning
AZVTrailer hitch
ATAutomatic transmission
ATCAutomatic temperature control
BRTrip (on-board) computer
CCCheck control system
CRCCruise control
DDiesel
DSTheft protection
DTTurbo Diesel
DWAAnti-theft warning system
DZMTachometer
EFCElectric folding roof (Convertible)
EKSPinch guard (electric windows)
EMPRadio
EUREuronorm (emission control standard)
engine
EZ + ElPlus ignition system (with self-
diagnosis)
EZVEcotronic
FHElectric windows
GBGreat Britain
HSHeated rear window
HWRear window wiper
HZGHeating
HRLLuggage compartment lampINSInstrument panel
IRLCourtesy lamps
KATCatalytic converter
KBSWiring harness
KVContact breaker distributor
L3.1Bosch Jetronic fuel injection system
LCDLiquid crystal display (LCD)
instruments
LHDLeft-hand drive
4WDFour-wheel-drive
LWRHeadlamp aim adjustment
M1.5Bosch Motronic M1.5 engine
management system
M2.5Bosch Motronic M2.5 engine
management system
MOTMotronic (general)
MTManual gearbox
MULMultec fuel injection system
NNorway
NSFront foglamps
NSLRear foglamps
OELOil level/pressure check system
OPTOptional equipment
PBSLPark and brake shift block
(automatic transmission, selector
lever in position ‘P’)P/NPark/neutral (automatic transmission)
POTPotentiometer
RCRear suspension level control
system
RFSReversing lamps
RHDRight-hand drive
SSweden
SDSunroof
SHHeated seats
SRAHeadlamp washers and wipers
TANKFuel level sender unit
TDTurbo Diesel
TEMPTemperature gauge
TFLDaytime driving lamps
TKSCourtesy lamp (door pillar) switches
TSZITransistorised ignition (inductive-
triggered) system
VGSCarburettor
WEGOdometer frequency/roadspeed
sensor
WHRRear suspension level control
system
WSWarning buzzer
ZVCentral locking
ZYLCylinder
Colour codes
BLBlue
HBLLight blue
BRBrown
GEYellow
GRGrey
GNGreenRTRed
WSWhite
SWBlack
LILilac
VIViolet
Wiring identification
Example: GEWS 1.5
GE -Wire basic colour
WS -Wire tracer colour
1.5 -Wire cross-section in mm
2
Note: Not all items shown are fitted to all models. Refer to Section 62 (Chapter 12) for details of diagram usage.

12•38Wiring diagrams
Key to wiring diagrams for 1991 models
NoDescriptionTrackNoDescriptionTrack Wiring diagrams for 1991 models
Location of applicable circuitsTrackLocation of applicable circuitsTrack
Air conditioning system800 to 850
Alternator111
Anti-lock braking system (ABS)701 to 722
Anti-theft alarm system633 to 647
Automatic transmission control system773 to 799
Battery100
Brake lamps461 to 462
Carburettor118 to 121
Central locking system600 to 627
Check control system347 to 371
Cigarette lighter597 to 598
Clock661 to 663
Courtesy lamps - front487 to 494
Courtesy lamps - rear569 to 573
Direction indicator and hazard warning lamps467 to 482
Door mirrors536 to 548
Electric windows665 to 699
Engine compartment lamp415
Foglamps - front444 to 452
Foglamps - rear444 to 457
Fuel injection and ignition (Multec) - C16NZ engine129 to 164
Fuel injection and ignition (Multec) - C18NZ engine972 to 997
Fuel injection/ignition (Motronic M1.5) - 2.0litre sohc 168 to 199
Fuel injection/ignition (Motronic M2.5) - 2.0litre dohc 261 to 299
Glovebox lamp599Headlamp aim adjustment system758 to 766
Headlamp dim-dip427 to 431
Headlamp washers519 to 532
Headlamps437 to 442
Headlamps “ON” warning buzzer493 to 495
Heated front seats560 to 566
Heated rear window549 to 556
Heater blower motor853 to 862
Horn(s)592 to 596
Ignition (HEI) - 14NV engine121 to 128
Ignition (MSTS/EZ+) - 16SV, 18 SV engines236 to 256
Instruments301 to 344
Luggage compartment lamp485
Radiator cooling fan113, 115
Radio/cassette player586 to 591
Rear number plate lamp413
Reversing lamps496 to 498
Side and tail lamps401 to 410
Starter motor102 to 110
Sunroof863 to 870
Tailgate wiper510 to 516
Trip computer650 to 662
Windscreen and tailgate washers511 to 529
Windscreen wipers501 to 506
E1Side lamp - left406
E2Tail lamp - left356, 374, 407
E3Number plate lamp413
E4Side lamp - right409
E5Tail lamp - right358, 376, 410
E6Engine compartment lamp415
E7Headlamp main beam - left437
E8Headlamp main beam - right438
E9Headlamp dipped beam - left360, 378, 439
E10Headlamp dipped beam - right362, 380, 440
E11Instrument illumination lamps328 to 329
E12Selector lever illumination lamp (automatic transmission)799
E13Luggage compartment lamp485
E14Courtesy lamp487
E15Glovebox lamp599
E16Cigarette lighter illumination lamp596
E17Reversing lamp - left497
E18Reversing lamp - right498
E19Heated rear window552
E20Front foglamp - left448
E21Front foglamp - right447
E24Rear foglamp - left454
E25Driver’s seat heater580
E27Courtesy lamp - rear left569 to 570
E28Courtesy lamp - rear right572 to 573
E30Passenger front seat heater564
E32Clock illumination lamp663
E38Trip computer illumination lamp654
E39Rear foglamp - right455
E41Courtesy lamp (with delay)488 to 490
E50Kerb lamp - driver’s door666
E51Kerb lamp - passenger door684
F1 onFusesVarious
G1Battery101
G2Alternator111
G3Battery - (Diesel models)882, 901
G6Alternator - (Diesel models)884 to 886, 909 to 911H1Radio/cassette player589 to 590, 634
H2Horn592
H3Direction indicator warning lamp315 to 320
H4Oil pressure warning lamp310
H5Brake fluid level warning lamp313
H6Hazard warning flasher lamp470
H7Alternator charge warning lamp310
H8Headlamp main beam warning lamp322
H9Brake lamp - left364, 382, 461
H10Brake lamp - right366, 384, 462
H11Direction indicator lamp - front left472
H12Direction indicator lamp - rear left473
H13Direction indicator lamp - front right461
H14Direction indicator lamp - rear right482
H15Fuel level warning lamp305
H16Glow plug warning lamp (Diesel models)323
H17Trailer direction indicator warning lamp321
H18Horn593
H19Headlamps-on warning buzzer494 to 495
H21Handbrake-on warning lamp315
H25Door mirror warning lamp542, 952
H26ABS warning lamp319
H30Engine fault warning lamp324
H33Direction indicator side repeater lamp - left476
H34Direction indicator side repeater lamp - right478
H42Automatic transmission warning lamp325
H45Four-wheel-drive warning lamp327
H46Catalytic converter temperature warning lamp329
H47Anti-theft alarm horn638
H48Horn594
K3Relay - starter motor (anti-theft alarm)109 to 110
K5Relay - front foglamps448 to 450
K6Relay - air conditioning801 to 802
K7Relay - air conditioning blower804 to 805
K8Relay - intermittent windscreen wipe503 to 506
K9Relay - headlamp wash519 to 520
K10Relay - direction indicator/hazard warning flashers467 to 469