1988 FIAT TEMPRA AUX

PART F: TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Key for engine types and sizes: A
-
1372cc; B
-
1581cc;
C
-
1697cc Diesel; D
-
1929cc Diesel; E
-
1929cc Turbo Diesel.
Engine
Screw retaining caps to crankcase (M10 x 1.25)
Screw retaining intermediate and central caps to crankcase (M12 x 1.25)...
Self-locking screw retaining front and rear caps to crankcase (M12 x 1.25)
Bolt, cylinder head to engine block (M10 x 1.25)
IMPORTANT NOTE: All torque settings shown in
Newton-meters (Nm). Bolt, nut or screw sizes in
brackets in left-hand column.
Bolt, cylinder head to engine block (M12 x 1.25)
Bolts, top to bottom cylinder head (M8)
Nut for connecting rod cap retaining bolt (M9 x 1)
Screw, connecting rod cap (M10 x 1)
Screw retaining engine vent to crankcase
(M8)
(M8)
Screw retaining front cover to crankcase
(MlOx 1.25)
(M8)
Bolt retaining rear cover (flywheel side) to crankcase (M6)
Nut retaining inlet and exhaust ducts to cylinder head
(M8)
(M8)
Screw, flywheel to crankshaft
(M10x 1.25)
(M12
x
1.25)
Lower belt cover retaining screw (M8)
Screw, damping flywheel to drive gear (M8)
Nut retaining auxiliary drive pulley to crankshaft (M20 x 1.25)
Screw retaining drive shaft to crankshaft (*) (M14 x 1.5 left)
Screw, timing gears
(M10x 1.25)
(M12x 1.25)
Belt tensioner retaining bolt
(M8)
(M10x 1.25)
Fixed belt tensioner retaining screw (M10 x 1.25)
Screw retaining auxiliary component driven gear (oil pump) (M10 x 1.25)
Nut for camshaft cap retaining stud (M8)
Nut retaining camshaft and air vacuum pump end mounts (M8)
Combustion prechamber retaining ring (M32 x 1.5)
Nut, injection pump stud (M8)
Screw, injection pump (M8)
Nut fastening flexible block to coolant pump case (M12 x 1.25)
Nut, injection pump gear (M12 x 1.75)
Screw retaining reaction bracket to oil filter support and injection pump (M8).
Top retaining screw or nut, oil filter support and injection pump (M12 x 1.25)
Lower retaining screw, oil filter support and injection pump (M10 x 1.25)
Complete injector (M24 x 2)
Glow plugs (M12 x 1.25)
Nuts retaining fuel delivery line to injection pump and injector (M12 x 1.25)...
Bolt, coolant pump to engine block (M8 x 1)
Bolt retaining cover and bracket to coolant pump case (M8)
Oil pressure switch (M14 x 1.5)
Coolant temperature sender unit
(M16 x 1.5 tapered)
(M18x 1.5 tapered)
Coolant temperature thermal switch (M16 x 1.5 tapered)
(*) The bolt need not be greased.
A B C D E Torque (Nm)
• • 80
• • • 113
• • • 113
• • 40
+
90 degrees
+ 90 deqrees
• • • 100
+
90 degrees
+ 90 deqrees
• • 28
• • 51
• • • 25 + 50 deqrees
• •
• • •
25
20
• • 50
25
• 10
• •
• • •
28
25
• •
• • •
83
142
• • 25
• • • 28
• • 155
• • • 190
• •
• • •
83
118
• •
• • •
25
44
• • • 44
• • 83
• • • 19
• • • 19
• • • 118
• • • 25
• • • 25
• • 80
• • • 49
• • • 29
• • • 98
• • • 71
• • • 55
• • • 15
• • • 29
• • • 25
• • • 23
32
• •
• • • 34
30
• • 30
expert22 fl/i* http://rutracker.org 23

LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT LIGHT
7b. TIPO: Pull the lens
downwards to remove
it. Remove and replace
the 5W tubular bulb.
7c. TEMPRA SALOON:
From inside the boot,
lever the light unit out
of its slot with a screw-
driver. Remove and
replace the 5W tubular
bulb (A).
DASH BULBS
See Chapter 6, Repairs and Replacements for details of
instrument panel removal for access to its light bulbs. The
bulbs are a quarter-turn fit in the back of the panel.
FACT FILE: FUSES
• 7d. The fuse box is
found to the side of
the steering column.
Pull the lever
marked FUSE...
• ...and lower the fuse box.
• 7e. A symbol above each fuse tells you which circuit it
protects. Four spare fuses are located near the top of the
fuse box.
10A Instrument power supply, windscreen
washer pump, rear screen washer pump,
reverse lights, steering column switch lights,
FIAT CODE system.
10A Instrument power supply, left tail light,
right number plate light, right side light, left
trailer tail light.
10A Illumination of controls, right tail light,
left number plate light, right tail light.
20A Horns, cigarette lighter, stop lights.
20A Power locks.
7.5A Interior lighting.
20A Rear window heater and indicator light,
door mirror defogging elements (if fitted).
10A Hazard warning lights.
25A Electrical fan for radiator cooling (only
for petrol versions without air conditioner).
7.5A Direction indicators, right door power
mirror (if fitted).
7.5A Rear fog-guard lights and panel
indicator.
20A Front fog lights and panel indicator
(if fitted).
10A Right low beam headlight.
10A Left low beam headlight.
SERVIZI SERVICES
iOO:
-00 r
Q
M
mp
o$
ID
ID
7e
10A Left high beam headlight and panel
indicator.
10A Right high beam headlight.
20A Windscreen wiper.
20A Read window wiper, power sunroof and
heated seat (if fitted).
20A Heater/ventilation fan.
Fuses located on the auxiliary panel
The fuses protecting special devices (options, features of
special versions or devices with high power require-
ments) are on an auxiliary panel to the side of the fuse
box under the dashboard. It is much easier to remove
and replace auxiliary panel fuses if you first remove the
oddment tray and moulding fastened by 5 screws. The
panel also houses a number of relays:
20A Intake manifold heater (petrol engines).
20A Diesel fuel filter heater (diesel and turbo diesel
engines).
20A Headlight washer pump.
25A Front power windows.
25A Rear power windows.
10A Antilock braking system.
7.5A Low beam headlight dimming system (for countries
where headlights always need to be on.)
30A Radiator fan (diesel versions).
40A Radiator fan (turbo diesel versions with heater).
60A Radiator fan (turbo diesel versions with air condi-
tioning).
The arrangement of the fuses on the auxiliary panel
varies with the number and type of devices present.
The amperage is clearly marked on each fuse. ALWAYS
replace a blown fuse with one of the correct amperage.
NEVER 'fix' a fault by using a fuse of a higher amperage,
nor 'bridge' a blown fuse
-
it could cause a fire!
7f. When a fuse is 'blown'
its conductor wire (A) has
a gap in it.
If a fuse blows, find out
why and put it right
before fitting a new fuse.
(7)
o m f (7) (7)
0 tJ 7f

26B. If adjustment is
necessary, slacken the
tensioning nut (A) and
the alternator pivot (B),
on all models. (These
are two typical
layouts.)
Use a length of wood
to pivot the alternator
away from the engine
block but take great
care not to damage the
alternator casing.
Tighten the nuts/bolts
when the tension is correct.
RIBBED BELTS ONLY
If your vehicle is fitted with a ribbed belt, pivot the alternator
as described above and tighten it when you can just twist the
belt by 1/4 turn in the middle of its longest run.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
• Belt tension should only be adjusted when the engine
is cold.
• After adjustment, run the engine for 15 to 30 seconds,
to allow the belt to bed-in, then check again.
• Experience mechanics claim that belts often go slack
when the engine heats up, producing belt squeal.
• If this happens on your vehicle, adjust the belt again
when the engine is hot. Wear industrial leather gloves
and long-sleeved overalls and take very great care not to
burn yourself on the hot engine or exhaust.
If there is an auxiliary unit, such as an air conditioning pump,
driven by a separate drive belt, examine and adjust it as
described here.
Q Job 27. Check electric fan operation.
Drive the car until it is at normal operating temperature. Park
outdoors and, with the gearbox in neutral (or 'P' in the case of
an automatic) leave the engine running. At just above normal
temperature the electric cooling fan should come on, and
then go off again when the temperature drops. Refer to your
temperature gauge, if fitted. If the fan doesn't behave, check
the thermo-switch on the radiator, along with all connections
and wires in its circuit with the fan motor. See Job 13 and
Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.
• Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test.
DIAGNOSTIC TEST
28A. Have your FIAT dealer
carry out a diagnostic test,
plugging his tester into the
diagnostic socket tucked away
at the front of the passenger-
side footwell.
EMISSIONS TESTS
Vehicles fitted with the Mono-Jetronic fuel injection system
are not fitted with adjustment screws. The system is self-
regulating. However, specified annual checks carried out with
an exhaust gas analyser will provide essential information on
the condition of the injection/ignition system, the catalytic
converter and the engine itself.
28B. The checks are carried out twice: once with the test
sensor at least 300 mm into the end section of the exhaust
pipe (a). (If the shape of the end section of the exhaust pipe is
such that the sensor cannot be completely introduced, a
special extension pipe must be added ensuring that the joint
with the car's tail-pipe is sealed.); the second after undoing
the cap or nut on the exhaust pipe upstream of the catalytic
converter (b).
The following table shows the test limits for carbon monoxide,
unburned hydrocarbons (in parts per million) and carbon
dioxide:
CO (%) HC (p.p.m.) C02(%)
Upstream of the catalyzer (a) 0,4 -h 1 500/600* >12
Downstream of the catalyzer (b)
=£
0,35 =s 90 >13
* FIAT's figures vary.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The engine must be at its normal
operating temperature and normal tick-over speed.
• if the percentage concentration of CO upstream of the
catalytic converter is not within the limits in the table,
check:
• the Lambda sensor
-
see Job 37.
• air penetration around the Lambda sensor housing.
• faults in the ignition or injection systems. (First try
renewing the spark plugs, distributor cap and HT leads.)
If, at the same time, the concentration of hydrocarbons
is not less than 500/600 parts per million (FIAT'S figures
vary), check:
• the ignition timing (see Job 25).
• the valve clearances (see Job 9).
• the valve gear timing (see Job 12).
• the engine compression. (You will need to remove the
spark plugs, fit a compresson tester to each plug
aperture in turn and crank the engine. See the FACT FILE
on page 51.)

• Step 6A: You
must also check
that the mark (a)
on the timing belt
pulley lines up
with the reference
mark (b) on the oil
seal housing. It will
be essential that
all of these marks
align when the
new belt is fitted!
Q Step 6B: On earlier engines rotate the crankshaft so that
the reference mark on the driving pulley is in line with the
TDC reference mark on the front cover. If the engine is in the
vehicle, position the crankshaft at TDC using the reference
marks on the flywheel and bellhousing window.
• Step 7:
Slacken off the belt
tensioner...
• Step 8: ...and
remove the camshaft
timing belt.
Q Step 9: The new
belt must be fitted with
the arrows, printed on
the outside of the belt,
pointing in the direction
of engine rotation.
Ensure that the timing
marks are still aligned.
• Step 10: Engage the belt with the crankshaft sprocket
first, then in turn, the auxiliary and camshaft sprockets. Finally,
feed it round the tensioner pulley. Also, as a double-check
that the belt is not 'out', ensure that the yellow lines on the
belt align exactly with the timing marks on the camshaft
sprocket and crankshaft sprocket.
Q Step 11: Slacken the tensioner nut and push the pulley
onto the belt until taut. Check that the timing marks are still
correctly aligned. Still pressing the pulley against the belt,
tighten its locking nut.
• Step 12: H INSIDE INFORMATION! Before finally
tightening the tensioner nut when adjusting the tension,
remove it, clean the thread and apply Loctite
Threadlocker to help stop the nut and washer shaking
loose. Q
Q Step 13: Turn the engine through two complete turns
clockwise and re-check the belt tension. Adjust again if
necessary.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! Without the special tools used
by FIAT, you can make an approximate adjustment by
tensioning the belt so that it can be twisted through 90
degrees (one quarter turn) mid way between the
camshaft and auxiliary shaft sprockets, using your finger
and thumb. If you can't put enough pressure on the belt
tensioner with your fingers, push a pair of bolts into the
two holes in the tensioner and lever between them to
turn the tensioner. B

Job 2. Petrol engine. Cylinder
head • removal.
• Step 1: Take note of the parts shown in this drawing -
which is also relevant to several other jobs on Tipo and
Tempra petrol engines.
7
-
cirdip 8
-
plate 9
-
flywheel 10-spigot bearing
11 -
thrust bearing 12
-
main bearing 13-crankshaft
14 - sump 15 - sump gasket 16 - oil seal 17 - auxiliary shaft cover 18 - gasket 19 - front oil seal housing 20 - oil seal 21 - bush 22 - auxiliary shaft 23 - drive gear 24 - dipstick 25 - oil pump 26 - auxiliary shaft sprocket
1
-
piston 2
-
gudgeon pin 3
-
connecting rod 4
-
big-end bearing 5
-
big-end bolt 6
-
small-end bush
27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39
turbo 40 - exhaust manifold - turbo 41 - exhaust manifold - non-turbo 42 - heated air duct 43 - camshaft cover 44 - camshaft housing 45 - oil seal 46 - camshaft 47 - tappet shim 48 - oil seal 49 - tappet body 50
-
valve, top cap Job 2-1
- crankshaft sprocket - tensioner pulley - timing belt cover - camshaft sprocket - camshaft belt - bracket - end plate - cylinder head gasket - cylinder head - timing belt - rear cover - inlet manifolds - turbo - plenum chamber
-
turbo - inlet manifold - non-
51 - valve spring - inner 52 - valve spring
-
outer 53 - valve, top cap 54 - washer 55 - valve guide 56 - valve 57 - end plate 58 - rear oil seal housing 59 - block 60 - oil seal 61 - sump drain plug
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! • Before removing the
cylinder head, make sure the engine is stone cold.
• Undo the cylinder head bolts strictly in the order laid
out in Step 18.
• These precautions help to prevent cylinder head
distortion.
• The new cylinder head gasket should stay in its
packaging until required, to avoid contamination by oil

or grease.
B
FACT FILE: SPECIAL TOOL PROBLEMS
SOLVED!
• It is possible to remove and replace the
cylinder head complete with the camshaft
housing - but it is very difficult without
FIAT's special cranked tool to get round the camshaft
housing.
• You CAN undo the bolts with a ring spanner, but you
CAN'T torque them down properly again!
• Because the gasket between the housing and the head could
also be suspect, we strongly recommend that you do it 'our'
way, by removing the camshaft housing even though you will
have to re-set the valve clearances.

G Step 17: Now repeat this operation on the remaining
valves.
G Step 18: Wash the whole cylinder head again using
paraffin and an old brush, making sure that all traces of
grinding paste are removed, then dry off. Use compressed air

if
available.
SAFETY FIRST!
•
Treat
compressed air with respect. Always wear

goggles
to protect your eyes.
•
Never
allow the airline nozzle near any of the body Sep apertures.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! Check the height of the valve
springs against new ones if possible, but if not, compare
them with each other. If any are shorter than the others,
play safe and replace the complete set. They are bound
to have suffered fatigue which could cause premature
valve failure. H
G Step 19: To install the valves, start from one end.
Lubricate a valve stem with fresh engine oil and slide it in to its
guide.
G Step 20: Locate a new valve stem seal over the stem of

the valve
(if applicable) and push down into contact with the
guide. Position the seal on its seat using a suitable metal tube.
G Step 21: Refit the flat washer and spring seat.
G Step 22: Position the inner and outer springs and the

spring
cap.
G Step 23: Re-apply the valve spring compressor and

compress
the springs enough to allow you to engage the split
collets
in
the stem grooves.
D INSIDE INFORMATION! Grease the grooves so that the
collets will 'stick' in place. The collets are easily fitted by
'sticking' the backs of them onto the end of a screw-
driver with some grease and feeding them into
position. B
G Step 24: Carefully release the spring compressor and

check
that the collets are correctly located. Tap the end of the

stem with
a hammer, to bed them in.
G Step 25: Fit the remaining valves.
Job 5. Petrol engine -
dismantling.
G Step 1: Familiarise yourself with the layout of the engine.

Refer to
illustration Job
2-1
for an exploded view of the

engine
components.
G Step 2: Drain the engine oil. Remove the cylinder head.
See
Job 2.

G Step 3: Remove the distributor. See PART D: IGNITION
• Step 4:
Remove the petrol
pump and spacer
block, if the
mechanical type
(a). (Electric fuel
pumps are in the
fuel tank.)
• Step 5:
Remove and
discard the oil filter
illustration Job
5-4,

• Step 6: Remove the water pump complete with its distri-
bution pipe, and the power steering pump (if fitted).
Q Step 7: Remove the alternator, the crankshaft pulley, the
crankshaft and camshaft sprockets, the cam belt tensioner
and the cam belt cover backplate.
• Step 8:
Remove the
auxiliary shaft
sprocket...
• Step 9: ...the
end plate and
seal, and remove
the auxiliary shaft.
• Step 10:
Undo and remove
the clutch, and
then the flywheel.
• Step 11: Turr
engine assembly c
remove the sump
and remove the crankcase breather (see
part b) with its pipe.

• Step 7: Using a suitable screwdriver, prise out the old oil
seal from the front housing or drift it out, as shown.
PISTON/CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLIES
• Step 11:
Fitting the
gudgeon pin in
connecting rod -
piston assembly.
Fit new circlips to the ends of the gudgeon pins.
• Step 12: Note the
correct piston offset
relative to the auxiliary
shaft (1). Note the
positions of the con-rod
cylinder bore numbers (2).
Q Step 5: Screw the bolts in finger tight and check that the
crankshaft rotates freely and smoothly.
Q Step 6: Tighten the bolts evenly and progressively until
the specified torque setting is reached. See Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures. Check again that the crankshaft rotates
smoothly.
• Step 3: Make sure
the bearing seats in the
block are perfectly clean
and locate the shells so
that their tabs engage
with the slots. Lubricate
the shells liberally with
fresh engine oil and
lower the crankshaft
into position.
• Step 4: Fit the remaining halves of the shells into the
bearing caps, lubricate threm and position the caps the right
way round and in the correct order.
Fit the piston in the
connecting rod,
positioning it so
that the flat part of
the crown is facing
the same way as
the cylinder bore
number on the connecting rod. See Step 12.
Job
6-12

• Step 13 A:
Make sure the
bores and
pistons are
clean. Position
the piston ring
gaps at equal
intervals round
the pistons
circumference
and lubricate
well. Make
sure the rings are fitted with the word 'TOP' facing upwards
where marked.
1
• Step 9: Refit the housing
with a new gasket and make
sure that the housing face is
flush with the face of the
cylinder block by using a
straight edge across the
surfaces, then tighten the
bolts.
• Step 10: Take the rear oil
seal housing and repeat Step
7 to Step 9
Q Step 8: Clean the oil seal recess in the housing and drive
the new seal into position, preferably using a suitably sized
socket
-
the lip of the seal facing in towards the block.
Lubricate the seal with copious
amounts of fresh engine oil.
• Step 13B:
Alternatively, use
a special piston
ring fitting tool,
if you have one
-

or have your
dealer do it for
you.

G Step 14: Locate a ring
clamp over the piston rings and
tighten enough to close the

ring
gaps, but not too tight!
Lubricate the rings so that they
compress and slide easily within

the
clamp.
• Step 15: With the ring

clamp
touching the cylinder
block, use a hammer shaft to
carefully tap the piston through

the
clamp and into the bore.
Q Step 27: Refit the cam belt tensioner and lock,
temporarily, in the non-tensioning position.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
When refitting the
crankshaft pulley nut,
note that the stepped
side must face the
engine.
• Step 29: Fit the
timing belt. See Job 1.
• Step 17: Fit the other
half of the big-end shell to

the
bearing cap and
lubricate. Offer the cap to

the
connecting rod and make

sure
that the numbers match.
Screw
in
the fixing bolts and
tighten progressively to the
correct torque. See Chapter

3, Facts
and Figures.
• Step 18: Fit the
remaining piston/conrod
assemblies and stand the
engine upside down on a

clean
surface.
• Step 19: Lubricate the
auxiliary shaft bearings and
position the shaft in the
cylinder block.
• Step 20:
Fit the
auxiliary shaft

end
plate

complete
with

a
new seal

and
gasket.
G Step 16: Locate the upper
half of the big end shell
bearing in the conrod, making

sure
that the mating surfaces

are clean.
Lubricate the
crankpin and the big-end

shell
and draw the conrod
down the bore so that the

big end
locates with the
crankpin.
• Step 21:
Prime the oil
pump with
new oil. Fit
the pump and
the oil return
pipe, tight-
ening the
bolts to their
specified
torque. See
Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures. The three larger bolts, shown
here, locate the pump to the block.
• Step 24: Turn the engine over so that it is now standing
on its sump.
• Step 25: Refit the cylinder head, the camshaft housing
and camshaft assembly. Refer to Job 3.
Q Step 26: Refit the two inner parts of the timing belt
cover.
• Step 23: Place a new
gasket on the cylinder
block and fit the sump.
Make sure that the
securing nuts and bolts
have their plates under
them and tighten them
progressively.
• Step 22: Apply FIAT
sealing compound No.
5882442 (or Loctite
equivalent) to the joints
between the cylinder
block and the front and
rear oil seal housings.
• Step 28: Fit the crankshaft, auxiliary and camshaft
sprockets, and tighten
to their correct torques.
See Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures.