1985 FORD GRANADA bulb

1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead.
2Disconnect the battery positive leads. These
may be protected by a plastic cover. Do not
allow the spanner to bridge the positive and
negative terminals.
3Release the battery hold-down clamp. Lift
out the battery. Keep it upright and be careful
not to drop it - it is heavy.
4Commence by placing the battery in its tray,
making sure it is the right way round. Secure it
with the hold-down clamp.
5Clean the battery terminals if necessary
then reconnect them. Connect the positive
lead first, then the negative lead.
1Should it appear that the alternator is not
charging the battery, check first that the
drivebelt is intact and in good condition and
that its tension is correct. Also check the
condition and security of the alternator
electrical connections and the battery leads.
2Accurate assessment of alternator output
requires special equipment and a degree of
skill. A rough idea of whether output is
adequate can be gained by using a voltmeter
(range 0 to 15 or 0 to 20 volts) as follows.
3Connect the voltmeter across the battery
terminals. Switch on the headlights and note
the voltage reading: it should be between 12
and 13 volts.
4Start the engine and run it at a fast idle
(approx 1500 rpm). Read the voltmeter: it
should indicate 13 to 14 volts.
5With the engine still running at a fast idle,
switch on as many electrical consumers as
possible (heated rear window, heater blower
etc). The voltage at the battery should be
maintained at 13 to 14 volts. Increase the
engine speed slightly if necessary to keep the
voltage up.
6If alternator output is low or zero, check the
brushes. If the brushes are OK, seek expert
advice.7Occasionally the condition may arise where
the alternator output is excessive. Clues to this
condition are constantly blowing bulbs;
brightness of lights vary considerably with
engine speed; overheating of alternator and
battery, possible with steam or fumes coming
from the battery. This condition is almost
certainly due to a defective voltage regulator,
but expert advice should be sought.
8Note that the alternator voltage regulator
can be renewed without removing the
alternator from the vehicle. The procedure is
part of brush renewal.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the multi-plug from the rear of
the alternator. It may be secured by a wire clip.
3Slacken the alternator adjusting and pivot
nut(s), bolt(s)and washer(s)(see illustration).
Swing the alternator towards the engine and
slip the drivebelt(s) off the pulley.
4Support the alternator. Remove the
adjusting and pivot nuts, bolts and washers,
noting the fitted positions of the washers. Lift
out the alternator. Do not drop it, it is fragile.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Tension the drivebelt(s) then tighten the
adjustment strap bolt followed by the pivot nut
and bolt. If there are two pivot bolts, tighten
the front one first.
6Refit the multi-plug and reconnect the
battery.
1The alternator brushes can be inspected or
renewed without removing the alternator from
the vehicle, but disconnect the battery
negative lead first.
2From the rear of the alternator remove the
two screws which secure the voltage
regulator/brush carrier assembly. Withdraw
the assembly (see illustration).
3Measure the length of each brush
protruding from the carrier (see illustration). If
they are worn down to, or below, the minimumspecified, the old brushes will have to be
unsoldered and new ones soldered into place.
Some skill with a soldering iron will be
required; excess heat from the soldering iron
could damage the voltage regulator. When
fitted, the new brushes must move freely in
their holders.
4Clean the slip rings with a cloth moistened
with methylated spirit (see illustration). If they
are badly burnt or damaged, seek expert
advice.
5Refit the assembled brush carrier/voltage
regulator and secure it with the two screws. If
the alternator is on the vehicle, reconnect the
battery negative lead.
1If the starter motor fails to operate, first
check that the battery is charged by switching
on the headlights. If the headlights do not
come on, or rapidly become dim, the battery
or its connections are at fault.
2Check the security and condition of the
battery and starter solenoid connections.
Remember that the heavy lead to the solenoid
is always “live” - disconnect the battery
negative lead before using tools on the
solenoid connections.
8Starter motor - testing on the
vehicle7Alternator - brush renewal
6Alternator - removal and
refitting
5Alternator - testing on the
vehicle
4Battery - removal and refitting
5•4Engine electrical systems
7.3 Measuring brush protrusion7.4 Clean the slip rings (arrowed)
6.3 Alternator mounting details
A Large washer
B Small washer (not always fitted)
C Mounting bracket
D Alternator
Some models have a single pivot bolt
7.2 Removing the voltage regulator/brush
carrier
procarmanuals.com

reference to horn switch plate retaining
screws. Note that the wheel is retained by a
bolt, not a nut as on earlier models. To gain
access to the bolt, prise out the horn button
and disconnect the wiring connectors.
1This operation is for correcting small errors
in steering wheel centralisation - up to 60°. For
larger errors, remove the steering wheel and
make a rough correction by repositioning the
wheel on refitting.
2Drive the vehicle in a straight line on a level
surface. Note the angle by which the steering
wheel deviates from the desired straight-
ahead position.
3Raise the front of the vehicle by driving it
onto ramps, or with a jack and axle stands
(see “Jacking”).
4Slacken both track rod end locknuts. Also
slacken the steering rack bellows outer clips.
5Make alignment marks between each track
rod end and its rod, so that the amount of
rotation applied can be accurately determined.
6Turn both track rodsin the same direction
to correct the steering wheel position. As a
rough guide, 19°of track rod rotation will
change the steering wheel position by 1°. To
correct error at the steering wheel, rotate both
track rods anti-clockwise (viewed from the
left-hand side of the vehicle), and the reverse
to correct as anti-clockwise errors. Both track
rods must be rotated by the same amount.
7Tighten the bellows clips and the track rod
end locknuts when adjustment is correct.
Lower the vehicle.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Position the steering in the straight-ahead
position.
3Remove the steering wheel. This is not
essential, but will improve access.
4Working under the bonnet, disconnect the
intermediate shaft universal joint from the
steering column shaft.5Remove the steering column shrouds and
disconnect the switch multi-plugs. Do not
forget the ignition/starter switch.
6Disconnect the bonnet release cable from the
operating lever on the underside of the column.
7Prise out the driver’s side air vent. Remove
the under-dash insulation and trim panel on
the driver’s side, unclipping the bulb failure
module, where applicable.
8Remove the three nuts which secure the
column height adjuster to the mounting bracket
(see illustration). Remove the column assembly
by drawing it into the vehicle. Do not drop it or
otherwise mistreat it if it is to be re-used.9When refitting, have an assistant guide the
column shaft into the intermediate shaft
universal joint. Secure the column with the
three nuts inside the vehicle and adjust it to
the minimum length position, then tighten the
coupling pinch-bolt.
10Complete refitting by reversing the
removal operations.
1Remove the steering column (see
illustration).
2Insert the key into the lock and turn it to
position 1. (If the lock has failed so that the key
will not enter, destructive methods will have to
be used.)
8Steering column lock - removal
and refitting
7Steering column - removal and
refitting
6Steering wheel - centralising
Steering and suspension 11•5
11
7.8 Two of the three nuts (arrowed) which
secure the column height adjuster
8.1 View of steering wheel and column
A Steering wheel
B Mounting bracket and
spring
C Thrust washer and spring
D Lower bearingE Height adjuster
F Column shaft and spire
washer
G Multi-function switchH Ignition/steering lock
I Horn brush unit
J Upper bearing
K Multi-function switch
Make alignment marks
between the two shafts for
reference when reassembling.
procarmanuals.com

10Remove the securing screws and detach
the C and D-pillar trim panels.
11Remove the top of the facia panel.
12Remove the securing screw from the base
of the A-pillar trim on each side. Detach the A-
pillar trim panels.
13Remove the headlining through the
tailgate, peeling it back from around the sliding
roof (when applicable - see paragraph 15).
14Refitting is essentially a reversal of the
removal procedure. The services of an
assistant will be required during the initial
stages of refitting.
15When a sliding roof is fitted, the headlining
is secured around the aperture with double-
sided adhesive tape.
1To remove a manually-adjusted mirror, first
pull off the operating lever cover. Remove the
triangular trim panel which covers the mirror
mounting: this panel is secured by a single
screw concealed under a cover. Pull out thecontrol retaining clip (see illustrations).
2For electrically-adjusted mirrors, remove the
door interior trim panel (including the triangular
trim panel) and peel back the top part of the
foam sheet for access to the mirror multi-plug.
Disconnect the multi-plug.
3For all mirrors, support the mirror and
remove the three securing screws. Lift the
mirror off the door, disengaging the base from
the rubber seal (see illustration).
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Remove the mirror from the windscreen by
“sawing” through the adhesive bond with a
piece of nylon cord.
2Clean the mirror base and the mounting
area on the windscreen with methylated spirit.
Both items must be perfectly clean, and the
windscreen must be at room temperature
(20°C/68°F approx).
3Peel off the backing paper from one side of
the special adhesive patch. Press the stickyside of the patch firmly onto the mirror base.
4Warm the mirror base and patch to 50°
to 70°C (122°to 158°F). Immediately remove
the backing paper from the other side of the
patch and press the mirror firmly onto the
mounting area. Hold it in position for at least
two minutes, and do not attempt to adjust the
mirror for at least half an hour.
5Beware of using proprietary adhesives to
attach the mirror to the windscreen: not all are
suitable and some may leave residues which
are difficult to remove.
Models before April 1992
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the instrument panel surround,
which is secured by four screws. Pull out the
heater louvre panel.
3Remove the facia top (crash pad), which is
secured by five screws and four spring clips.
With the screws and clip removed, a good tug
will free the top from the clips next to the
windscreen (see illustration).
4Remove the carpet and soft trim from below
the facia on both sides. It is clipped in place.
5Remove the driver’s side lower trim panel,
which is secured by six screws. One of the
screws is only accessible after removing the
air vent grille. Unclip the AWS bulb failure
warning module, when fitted (see illustration).
41Facia panels and trim -
removal and refitting40Interior mirror - removal and
refitting
39Exterior mirror - removal and
refitting
12•12Bodywork and fittings
39.1a Removing the mirror mounting trim
screw
41.3 Facia top retaining screws and spring clips (A)41.5 Remove the grille for access to the
screw (arrowed)
39.1b Pull out the clip (arrowed) to release
the mirror control39.3 Removing a mirror from the door
procarmanuals.com

Chapter 13
Body electrical system
Anti-theft alarm system components - removal and refitting . . . . . .36
Auxiliary warning system components - testing, removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Central locking motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Cigarette lighter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Electrical fault-finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Exterior lights - bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Exterior light units - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Fuel computer components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Fuses, relays and control units - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .16
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Headlight beam alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Heater blower motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Horn - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Horn switch plate, slip rings and brushes - removal and refitting . .12
Ignition/starter switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Instrument cluster - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Instrument cluster - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Interior lights - bulb renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Joystick fader control - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Loudspeakers (original equipment) - removal and refitting . . . . . . .31
Radio aerial pre-amplifier (original equipment) - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Radio or radio/cassette player (original equipment) - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Rear entertainment console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Rear headphone relay - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Rear window wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Seat adjusting motors - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Seat heating elements - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Sliding roof motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Speed control system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . .28
Speedometer sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Window operating motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Windscreen, rear window and headlight washer components -
removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . .23
Wiper arms and blades - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
General
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 volt, negative earth
Light bulbs (typical)Fitting Wattage
Headlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . H4 60/55
Auxiliary driving lights and front foglights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 55
Side/parking lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glass base 5
Direction indicators, reversing light and rear foglight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bayonet 21
Stop and tail lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bayonet 21/5
Door open/kerb illumination lights, luggage area light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bayonet 5
Number plate lights, reading light and footwell lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glass base 5
Engine bay light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bayonet 10
Interior lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Festoon 10
Vanity mirror light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Festoon 3
Glovebox light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glass base 3
Ashtray light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glass base 1.2
Instrument illumination, pilot and warning lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glass base 1.2/2.5
Heater control light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glass base 1
Automatic transmission selector light and clock light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bayonet 1.4
Fuses and circuit breakers- main fuse box
Fuse No Rating (A) Circuit(s) protected
1 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LH main beam, LH auxiliary driving light
2 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RH main beam, LH auxiliary driving light
3 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LH dipped beam
4 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RH dipped beam
5 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LH side and tail lights
6 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RH side and tail lights
13•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
13
procarmanuals.com

The electrical system is a 12 volt, negative
earth type. Electricity is generated by an
alternator, belt-driven from the crankshaft pulley.
A lead-acid battery provides a reserve of power
for starting and when the demands of the system
temporarily exceed the alternator output.
The battery negative terminal is connected
to “earth” - vehicle metal - and most electrical
system components are wired so that they
only receive a positive feed, the current
returning via vehicle metal. This means that
the component mounting forms part of the
circuit. Loose or corroded mountings can
therefore cause apparent electrical faults.
Many semiconductor devices are used in
the electrical system, both in the “black
boxes” which control vehicle functions and in
other components. Semiconductors are very
sensitive to excessive (or wrong polarity)
voltage, and to extremes of heat. Observe the
appropriate precautions to avoid damage.
Although some repair procedures are given
in this Chapter, sometimes renewal of a well-
used item will prove more satisfactory. The
reader whose interests extend beyond
component renewal should obtain a copy of
the “Automobile Electrical Manual”, available
from the publishers of this book.
Before starting work on the electrical
system, read the precautions listed in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of the manual.
Note:Refer to the precautions given in “Safety
first!” and in Section 1 of this Chapter before
starting work. The following tests relate to testing
of the main electrical circuits, and should not be
used to test delicate electronic circuits (such as
anti-lock braking systems), particularly where an
electronic control unit (ECU) is involved.
General
1A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers
related to that component, and the wiring and
connectors which link the component to both
the battery and the chassis. To help to
pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit,
wiring diagrams are included at the end of this
Chapter.
2Before attempting to diagnose an electrical
fault, first study the appropriate wiring
diagram, to obtain a more complete
understanding of the components included in
the particular circuit concerned. The possible
sources of a fault can be narrowed down by
noting whether other components related to
the circuit are operating properly. If several
components or circuits fail at one time, the
problem is likely to be related to a shared fuse
or earth connection.
3Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a faulty earth connection, a
blown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faulty
relay. Visually inspect the condition of all
fuses, wires and connections in a problem
circuit before testing the components. Use the
wiring diagrams to determine which terminal
connections will need to be checked in order
to pinpoint the trouble-spot.
4The basic tools required for electrical fault-
finding include: a circuit tester or voltmeter (a
12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also
be used for certain tests), a self-powered test
light (sometimes known as a continuity tester),
an ohmmeter (to measure resistance), a
battery and set of test leads, and a jumper
wire, preferably with a circuit breaker or fuse
incorporated, which can be used to bypass
suspect wires or electrical components.
Before attempting to locate a problem with
test instruments, use the wiring diagram to
determine where to make the connections.
5To find the source of an intermittent wiring
fault (usually due to a poor or dirty connection,
or damaged wiring insulation), an integrity testcan be performed on the wiring, which
involves moving the wiring by hand, to see if
the fault occurs as the wiring is moved. It
should be possible to narrow down the source
of the fault to a particular section of wiring.
This method of testing can be used in
conjunction with any of the tests described in
the following sub-Sections.
6Apart from problems due to poor
connections, two basic types of fault can
occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit or
short-circuit.
7Open-circuit faults are caused by a break
somewhere in the circuit, which prevents
current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will
prevent a component from working, but will
not cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.
8Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short”
somewhere in the circuit, which allows the
current flowing in the circuit to “escape” along
an alternative route, usually to earth. Short-
circuit faults are normally caused by a
breakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a
feed wire to touch either another wire, or an
earthed component such as the bodyshell. A
short-circuit fault will normally cause the
relevant circuit fuse to blow. Note: A short-
circuit that occurs in the wiring between a
circuit’s battery supply and its fuse will not
cause the fuse in that particular circuit to blow.
This part of the circuit is unprotected - bear
this in mind when fault-finding on the vehicle’s
electrical system.
Finding an open-circuit
9To check for an open-circuit, connect one
lead of a circuit tester or voltmeter to either the
negative battery terminal or a known good earth.
10Connect the other lead to a connector in
the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to
the battery or fuse.
11Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
12If voltage is present (indicated either by
the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,
as applicable), this means that the section of
2Electrical fault-finding - general
information
1General information
Body electrical system 13•3
13
Other relays and modules (continued)
IdentificationFunction
Behind facia (passenger side) (continued):
M4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Heated windscreen (timer)
M5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Air conditioning cooling fan
M6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS pump relay
M7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS main relay
M8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS control unit
M9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Ride height control
Below instrument panel (driver’s side):
N1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Bulb failure warning unit
Below facia (passenger side):
P1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS module
P2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Fuel-injection system module
Behind facia (passenger side):
R1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Speed control system module
R2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Auxiliary warning system module
R3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Rear audio console module
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Alternator adjusting strap:
To steering pump bracket (SOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2616 to 19
To front cover (V6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
procarmanuals.com

the circuit between the relevant connector and
the battery is problem-free.
13Continue to check the remainder of the
circuit in the same fashion.
14When a point is reached at which no
voltage is present, the problem must lie
between that point and the previous test point
with voltage. Most problems can be traced to
a broken, corroded or loose connection.
Finding a short-circuit
15To check for a short-circuit, first disconnect
the load(s) from the circuit (loads are the
components which draw current from a circuit,
such as bulbs, motors, heating elements, etc).
16Remove the relevant fuse from the circuit,
and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to the
fuse connections.
17Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
18If voltage is present (indicated either by
the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading),
this means that there is a short-circuit.
19If no voltage is present, but the fuse still
blows with the load(s) connected, this
indicates an internal fault in the load(s).
Finding an earth fault
20The battery negative terminal is connected
to “earth” - the metal of the engine/transmission
and the car body - and most systems are wired
so that they only receive a positive feed, the
current returning via the metal of the car body.
This means that the component mounting andthe body form part of that circuit. Loose or
corroded mountings can therefore cause a range
of electrical faults, ranging from total failure of a
circuit, to a puzzling partial fault. In particular,
lights may shine dimly (especially when another
circuit sharing the same earth is in operation),
motors (eg wiper motors or the radiator cooling
fan motor) may run slowly, and the operation of
one circuit may have an apparently-unrelated
effect on another. Note that on many vehicles,
earth straps are used between certain
components, such as the engine/transmission
and the body, usually where there is no metal-to-
metal contact between components, due to
flexible rubber mountings, etc.
21To check whether a component is properly
earthed, disconnect the battery, and connect
one lead of an ohmmeter to a known good
earth point. Connect the other lead to the wire
or earth connection being tested. The
resistance reading should be zero; if not,
check the connection as follows.
22If an earth connection is thought to be
faulty, dismantle the connection, and clean
back to bare metal both the bodyshell and the
wire terminal, or the component’s earth
connection mating surface. Be careful to
remove all traces of dirt and corrosion, then
use a knife to trim away any paint, so that a
clean metal-to-metal joint is made. On
reassembly, tighten the joint fasteners
securely; if a wire terminal is being refitted, use
serrated washers between the terminal and
the bodyshell, to ensure a clean and secure
connection. When the connection is remade,
prevent the onset of corrosion in the future byapplying a coat of petroleum jelly or silicone-
based grease, or by spraying on (at regular
intervals) a proprietary ignition sealer, or a
water-dispersant lubricant.
Headlight
1Open and prop the bonnet. Remove the
cover from the rear of the headlight unit by
twisting it anti-clockwise.
2Disconnect the wiring plug from the
headlight bulb. Release the spring clip by
squeezing its legs together and move it clear
of the bulb (see illustration).
3Remove the headlight bulb (see
illustration). Caution: If the lights have just
been in use, the bulb may be extremely hot.
4When handling the new bulb, use a tissue or
clean cloth to avoid touching the glass with
the fingers. If the glass is accidentally touched,
wipe it clean using methylated spirit. Moisture
and grease from the skin can cause
blackening and rapid failure of the new bulb.
5Fit the new bulb, making sure that the legs
and cut-outs in the bulb base and the reflector
match up. Secure with the spring clip.
6Reconnect the wiring plug. Check the
headlight for correct operation, then refit and
secure the rear cover.
Front parking light (sidelight)
7Gain access as for the headlight bulb, then
pull the parking light bulbholder from the
headlight reflector.
8Extract the wedge base bulb from the
holder (see illustration). Fit the new bulb, refit
the bulbholder and check for correct
operation.
Auxiliary driving light (when fitted)
9From above the auxiliary light unit, release
the cover spring clip and remove the cover
(see illustration).
10Release the spring clip from the bulb.
Withdraw the bulb and unplug its wiring
connector (see illustration). Caution: If the
lights have just been in use, the bulb may be
extremely hot.
11Do not touch the glass of the new bulb
with the fingers.
3Exterior lights - bulb renewal
13•4Body electrical system
3.2 Squeeze the spring clip legs (arrowed)
to remove the headlight bulb3.3 Removing a headlight bulb
3.8 Removing the front parking light bulb
from the holder3.9 Auxiliary driving light cover3.10 Removing the auxiliary driving light
bulb
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12Connect the new bulb, fit it and secure it
with the spring clip.
13Check the light for correct operation, then
refit and secure the cover.
Front foglight (when fitted)
14Remove the lens and reflector together by
undoing the two retaining screws. Do not
disturb the alignment screw (see illustration).
15Disconnect the wiring from the bulb.
Release the spring clip and extract the bulb.
Caution: If the lights have just been in use, the
bulb may be extremely hot.
16Do not touch the glass of the new bulb
with the fingers.
17Fit the new bulb and secure it with the
spring clip. Reconnect the wiring.18Refit the lens and reflector and secure it
with the two screws. Check for correct
operation.
Front direction indicator
19From under the bonnet, unhook the spring
which secures the direction indicator light unit
(see illustration).
20Withdraw the light unit and free the
bulbholder from it by twisting it anti-clockwise
(see illustration).
21Remove the bulb from the holder by
pushing and twisting anti-clockwise. Fit the
new bulb to the holder, refit the bulb and
holder to the light unit and refit and secure the
light unit.
22Check the direction indicators for correct
operation.
Direction indicator side repeaters
23Reach up behind the wing and release the
light unit by squeezing the two release tags
together.
24Pull the light unit out of the wing. Twist the
bulbholder anti-clockwise to release it. Pull out
the old bulb and press in the new one (see
illustrations).
25Refit the bulbholder, then insert the light
unit into its hole and press it home.
Rear light cluster
26Access to rear light cluster bulbs is gained
from within the luggage area. First remove theaccess cover on the side concerned; on the
right-hand side, also remove the jack.
27Grasp the bulbholder in the apertures
provided, squeeze the retaining lugs together
and withdraw the bulbholder (see
illustration).
28The appropriate bulb(s) can now be
renewed, and the bulbholder refitted (see
illustration).
Number plate light
29Carefully prise the light unit out of the
bumper with a screwdriver.
30Twist the light unit and bulbholder anti-
clockwise to separate them (see illustration).
Pull out the wedge base bulb and press in the
newone.
31Reassemble the light unit and bulbholder,
then push the assembly home.
Body electrical system 13•5
13
3.14 Front foglight bulb renewal
A Rotating screws
B Spring clipC Alignment screw
3.24a Removing a direction indicator side
repeater
3.19 Unhook the spring (arrowed) to
release the front indicator light unit3.20 Removing the bulb and holder from
the direction indicator light unit
3.24b Fitting a new side repeater bulb
3.27 Rear light cluster bulbholder retaining
lugs (arrowed)
3.28 Identification of rear light bulbs
A Reversing light
B Direction indicator
C Stop-lightD Tail light
E Rear foglight3.30 Separate the unit to gain access to the
number plate light bulb
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1For removal and refitting of the front
foglights, front direction indicators, direction
indicator repeaters and the number plate
lights, refer to the previous Section.
Headlight
2Unhook the direction indicator light unit
retaining spring. Withdraw the direction
indicator unit and allow it to hang.
3Pull out the rubber moulding from between
the base of the headlight and the bumper.
(This moulding may in fact be stuck to the
headlight surround.)
4Release the headlight surround retaininglugs, prising them carefully with a screwdriver.
Work from the outside towards the centre of
the vehicle. Remove the surround by pulling it
forwards and then sideways.
5Remove the radiator grille, secured by two
screws.
6Disconnect the headlight wiring connector.
Remove the two retaining screws, and the nut
on the side mounting (see illustrations). Draw
the headlight unit forwards and twist it to
remove it.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the locating pin on the outside
of the headlight unit engages in the hole in the
apron panel.
8If the new unit has been fitted, or if the
adjusting screws have been disturbed, have
the beam alignment checked without delay.9Note that the headlight lens can be renewed
independently of the rest of the unit, once the
securing clips have been removed (see
illustration).
Auxiliary driving light
10This is integral with the headlight unit.
Rear light cluster
Hatchback
11Remove the rear light cluster bulbholder
as described in the previous Section.
12Remove the six nuts which secure the rear
light unit (see illustration).
13Withdraw the light unit from the vehicle
and disconnect the multi-plug and wiring
harness from it (see illustration).
14Fit a new gasket to the light unit if the old
one was damaged.
15Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Saloon
16Remove the relevant trim panel from the
rear corner of the boot, noting that it may be
necessary to remove one or more of the rear
lower trim panel retaining screws (see
illustration).
17Disconnect the wiring connector from the
rear light cluster, then undo the four retaining
nuts and withdraw the light unit from the car
along with the rubber sealing gasket (see
illustration).
18Refitting is a reverse of removal ensuring
that the light unit rubber sealing gasket is in
good condition.
4Exterior light units - removal
and refitting
13•6Body electrical system
4.6a Headlight top mounting screw
4.13 Disconnecting the multi-plug from the
rear light unit
4.9 Removing a headlight lens securing clip4.12 Four rear light unit securing nuts
(arrowed) - there are two more out of sight
4.16 Remove the trim panel for access to
the rear light cluster retaining nuts4.17 Rear light cluster wiring connector (A)
and retaining nuts (B)
4.6b Headlight bottom mounting screw4.6c Headlight side mounting nut
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