1985 FORD GRANADA wheel

important also to keep watch on those parts of
the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the underframe
of the vehicle steam-cleaned, engine
compartment included, so that a thorough
inspection can be carried out to see what
minor repairs and renovations are necessary.
Steam-cleaning is available at many garages,
and is necessary for the removal of the
accumulation of oily grime, which sometimes
is allowed to become thick in certain areas. If
steam-cleaning facilities are not available,
there are some excellent grease solvents
available which can be brush-applied; the dirt
can then be simply hosed off. Note that these
methods should not be used on vehicles with
wax-based underbody protective coating, or
the coating will be removed. Such vehicles
should be inspected annually, preferably just
prior to Winter, when the underbody should be
washed down, and any damage to the wax
coating repaired. Ideally, a completely fresh
coat should be applied. It would also be worth
considering the use of such wax-based
protection for injection into door panels, sills,
box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard
against rust damage, where such protection is
not provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has
dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish. Always check that
the door and ventilator opening drain holes
and pipes are completely clear, so that water
can be drained out. Brightwork should be
treated in the same way as paintwork.
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear
of the smeary film which often appears, by theuse of proprietary glass cleaner. Never use
any form of wax or other body or chromium
polish on glass.
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the material.
Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in
the same way as the upholstery. When using
liquid cleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-
wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive
damp could get into the seams and padded
interior, causing stains, offensive odours or
even rot. If the inside of the vehicle gets wet
accidentally, it is worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly, particularly
where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or
electric heaters inside the vehicle for this
purpose.
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the
scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very
fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from
the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique is
required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smoothcotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being “belled-
out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes in
bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area, and
from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire
brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide whether
to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or
4Minor body damage - repair
3Maintenance - upholstery and
carpets
12•2Bodywork and fittings
procarmanuals.com

6Disconnect the glovebox arms and hinges.
Withdraw the hinge pins and remove the lid.
7Slide the auxiliary fuse panel off its
mounting and remove the glovebox light
(when fitted).
8Remove the ABS and ESC/EEC modules
(Chapter 13). Remove the two nuts and
washers from inside the glovebox.
9Remove the radio, stowage box or graphic
equaliser, ashtray, cigarette lighter panel and
(when applicable) the gear lever gaiter.
10Remove the centre console, disconnecting
switches, rear heater controls etc as
necessary.
11Remove the six screws which secure the
passenger’s side lower panel. Remove the
panel. 12Refit by reversing the removal operations,
transferring the brackets, captive nuts or other
fittings to any new panels being fitted.
Models from April 1992
13Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
14Remove the centre console.
15Remove the radio, amplifier unit and
(where necessary) the CD player.
16Remove the instrument cluster.
17Remove the steering wheel and then the
steering column direction indicator/headlight
flasher switch and windscreen wipe/wash
switch.
18Pull off the three knobs from the heater
and ventilation controls to gain access to the
two hidden central vent panel retainingscrews. Slacken and remove the four panel
retaining screws and partially withdraw the
panel. Disconnect the wiring connectors from
the heated window switches and fuel
computer (where fitted) and remove the panel
from the car (see illustrations).
19Undo the two retaining screws and free
the heater and ventilation control panel from
the facia panel (see illustration).
20Depress the retaining tang, situated at the
bottom of the control knob, and remove the
light switch knob from the switch (see
illustration).
21Withdraw the light switch from right-hand
vent panel and disconnect the wiring plug (see
illustration).
22Remove the light switch surround from the
vent panel and disconnect the wiring
connector (see illustration).
23Undo the three retaining screws and
remove the right-hand vent panel from the
facia (see illustration).
24Remove the ashtray insert, then slacken
and remove the three ashtray retaining
screws. Remove the ashtray assembly,
detaching the illumination lamp as it is
removed (see illustration).
25Undo the retaining screw then disconnect
the wiring plugs and remove the cigarette
lighter from the facia panel (see illustration).
26Unclip and remove both the left- and right-
hand facia undercover panels.
27Carefully prise out the bonnet release lever
surround to gain access to the lever retaining
Bodywork and fittings 12•13
12
41.18a Remove the control knobs to gain
access to the two hidden central vent
panel retaining screws (arrowed)41.18b Withdraw the central vent panel and
disconnect the heated window and fuel
computer wiring connectors41.19 Undo the heater control panel
retaining screws and free the panel from
the facia
41.22 Withdraw the light switch surround
and disconnect the wiring connector
41.20 Depress the tang (arrowed) and pull
off the light switch control knob41.21 Withdraw the light switch and
disconnect the wiring plug
41.23 Undo the three retaining screws
(arrowed) to disconnect the right-hand vent41.24 Ashtray retaining screw locations
(arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

1With the instrument cluster removed, a
particular gauge or other component can be
renewed by following the appropriate parts of
this Section.
2Remove all the light bulbs and holders from
the rear of the panel by twisting them anti-
clockwise.
3To remove the printed circuit, unclip and
remove the two multi-plug terminal retainers.
Remove all the nuts and washers from the
printed circuit terminals, then unclip and
remove the printed circuit. Be careful with it, it
is fragile (see illustration).
4To remove the instrument cluster glass,
release the two securing clips from thebottom
edge of the glass. Swing the glass upwards
and remove it.
5With the glass removed, the speedometer,
fuel and temperature gauges can be removed
individually after undoing their securing nuts or
screws. To remove the clock or tachometer,
the printed circuit must be removed as well.
6When fitted, the low fuel/high temperature
warning light bulbs can be renewed after
removing the combined gauge unit. Use
tweezers to extract the old bulb and to fit the
new one.
7The graphic display module, when fitted,
can be removed after undoing its two securing
screws.
8Reassemble the instrument cluster by
reversing the dismantling operations.
1To remove the clock from the instrument
panel, refer to the previous Section.
2To remove the clock from the overhead
console, first remove the console.
3Remove the clock rear cover, which is
secured by two screws.
4Remove the two screws which secure the
clock itself, then withdraw the clock.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Front lighter
2On models with high level trim, pull the
centre console surround away from the radio
to gain access to the lighter. On models with
low level trim, remove the radio/cassette unit.
3Disconnect the wires from the cigarette
lighter and push it out of the illuminated ring.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Rear lighter
5Pull off the rear heater control lever knob.
6Remove the rear console panel, which is
secured by two screws.
7Disconnect the wires from the lighter and
push it out of the illuminated ring.
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Two horns are fitted as standard. The high
tone horn is located to the right of the radiator
and is accessible from under the bonnet. The
low tone horn is located below and to the left
of the radiator and is accessible from below.
2Remove the horn securing nut or bolt and
recover the shakeproof washer.
3Disconnect the wiring and remove the horn.4When refitting the horn, make sure it is
correctly positioned before tightening the
securing nut or bolt.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Switch plate
2Pull off the steering wheel centre cover.
3Undo the three screws which retain the
switch plate. Disconnect and remove the
switch plate (see illustration).
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Slip rings
5Remove the steering wheel.
6Release the tangs which secure the slip
rings to the underside of the steering wheel.
Disconnect the slip rings from the switch plate
and remove them.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Brushes
8Remove the steering wheel.
9Remove the steering column upper and
lower shrouds.
10Disconnect the wiring from the horn
brushes. Carefully lever out the brush unit,
using a thin screwdriver inserted into the
bottom edge of the unit(see illustration).
11Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Remove the seat.
2Remove the seat cushion or backrest trim.
3Note which way round the heating element
is facing (see illustration),then remove the
wire clips and adhesive tape which secure it to
the seat. Retrieve the tie-rod and fit it to the
new element.
4Fit the new element with the thermostat
facing the cushion foam. Secure the element
with wire clips and tape, ensuring that it is not
too tight - it must be able to flex under load.
5Refit the cushion or backrest trim.
6Refit the seat and check the heating
elements for correct operation.
13Seat heating elements -
removal and refitting
12Horn switch plate, slip rings
and brushes - removal and
refitting
11Horn - removal and refitting
10Cigarette lighter - removal
and refitting
9Clock - removal and refitting
8Instrument cluster - dismantling
and reassembly
13•10Body electrical system
8.3 Instrument cluster printed circuit
Unclip retainers at their top ends (arrowed)
13.3 Seat heating element
Thermostat (arrowed) must face the foam
12.3 Three screws (arrowed) secure the
horn switch plate12.10 Removing the horn brush unit
procarmanuals.com

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the steering column upper and
lower shrouds.
3Remove the switch by depressing its two
retaining tabs. Unplug the wiring connector
and remove the switch (see illustration).
4When refitting, make sure that the slot in the
centre of the switch is aligned with the driver
on the lock.
5Reconnect the switch and push it home
until the retaining tabs click into place.
6Reconnect the battery and check the switch
for correct operation, then refit the steering
column shrouds.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead, or
satisfy yourself that there is no risk of a short-
circuit, before removing any switch.
2Except where noted, a switch is refitted by
reversing the removal operations.
Lighting master switch
Models before April 1992
3Pull the knob off the lighting switch.
4Depress the two retaining lugs and pull the
switch out of the instrument panel surround. 5Disconnect the multi-plug from the switch
and remove it.
Models from April 1992
6Note that there is a retaining lug on the
bottom of the switch knob which must be
depressed before the knob can be removed.
Heater blower switch
Models before April 1992
7This is removed in the same way as the
lighting master switch.
Models from April 1992
8The switch can be removed and refitted as
described for the heater controls in Chapter 3.
Instrument illumination dimmer
switch
9Remove the instrument panel surround,
which is retained by four screws.
10Pull the dimmer switch from its location
and disconnect the multi-plug (see
illustration).
11Although the switch looks as if it can be
dismantled, this should not be attempted
unless the switch is surplus to requirements,
and a new unit is readily available.
Models up to April 1992
12On these models, remove the four
instrument cluster surround retaining screws
and remove the surround from the facia.
Carefully prise the switch out of the aperture
and disconnect the wiring connector.
Models from April 1992
13On these models, remove the two
instrument cluster surround retaining screws
and release the two retaining clips. Remove
the surround from the facia and disconnect
the wiring connector from the dimmer switch.
Depress the dimmer switch retaining tangs
and slide the switch out of the surround.
Mirror control switch
14Carefully prise the switch out of the armrest
using a thin-bladed screwdriver. Protect the
armrest with a piece of cloth or thick card.
15Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
switch (see illustration).
Direction indicator/headlight
flasher switch and unit
Models before April 1992
16Remove the steering wheel centre cover.
17Remove the steering column upper and
lower shrouds, which are secured by a total of
six screws.
18Unlock the steering and turn the steering
wheel to gain access to the two screws which
retain the switch (see illustration). Remove
the screws.
19Withdraw the switch from the steering
column and disconnect its multi-plug (see
illustration). It may be necessary to release
some cable-ties in order to free the multi-plug.
The flasher unit is plugged into the side of the
switch furthest from the wheel (see
illustration).15Switches - removal and
refitting
14Ignition/starter switch -
removal and refitting
Body electrical system 13•11
13
14.3 Ignition/starter switch removal
Depress the retaining tabs to lift off the switch15.10 Removing the instrument illumination
dimmer switch15.15 Removing a mirror control switch
15.18 Two screws (arrowed) secure the
switch. Steering wheel removed for clarity15.19a Disconnecting a steering column
switch multi-plug15.19b Unplugging the direction indicator
flasher unit
procarmanuals.com

20When refitting, check the switch for
correct operation before refitting the shrouds
and steering wheel centre cover. When fitting
the shrouds, be careful not to trap the switch
rubber gaiter.
Models from April 1992
21Note that if access to the switch retaining
screws cannot be gained with the steering
wheel in position, then the steering wheel
must first be removed.
Windscreen wipe/wash switch
Models before April 1992
22Proceed as described in the previous sub-
section for the direction indicator switch.
Depending on equipment, the wipe/wash
switch may have more than one multi-plug
connected to it.
Models from April 1992
23Note that if access to the switch retaining
screws cannot be gained with the steering
wheel in position, then the steering wheel
must first be removed.
Door pillar switch (for courtesy
light)
24Remove the single securing screw and pull
the switch from its location (see illustration).
25Retain the wiring with (for instance) string
or a clothes peg, so that it cannot fall into the
door pillar, then disconnect the switch.
26Lubricate the plunger of the switch with a
little petroleum jelly when refitting
Reversing light switch (manual
gearbox)
27Raise the front of the vehicle and support
it securely.
28Locate the reversing light switch, which is
located on the right-hand side of the gearbox.
29Disconnect the wiring from the switch,
wipe clean around it and unscrew it.
30When refitting, make sure that the switch
wiring is routed sufficiently far from the
exhaust system to avoid damage due to heat.
Window operating switch
31The window operating switch is removed
from the armrest or console in the same way
as the mirror control switch previously
described (see illustration).
Sliding roof switch
32Carefully prise the switch from the overhead
console using a thin-bladed screwdriver.
33Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
switch.
Tailgate lock switch
34The tailgate lock switch controls the
luggage area lights. When appropriate, it also
provides inputs to the auxiliary warning and
anti-theft systems.
35To avoid damage to other components,
the battery must be disconnected before the
tailgate lock switch is removed.
36Remove the tailgate interior trim panel,
which is secured by eleven screws.37Release the switch locking tab, pivot the
switch away from the lock and disconnect it.
38When refitting, make sure that the slot on
the switch engages with the operating lug on
the lock barrel.
Handbrake “ON” switch
39Gain access to the base of the handbrake
lever by removing the rubber gaiter and (if
necessary) the centre console or switch panel
(see illustration).
40Disconnect the wiring from the handbrake
switch. Undo the two screws and remove the
switch, noting how the screws do not pass
through holes in the lever but engage in slots.
41After refitting the switch, check for correct
operation before refitting the surrounding trim.
Stop-light switch
42Remove the under-dash trim on the
driver’s side. The trim is secured by plastic
clips.
43Disconnect the wiring from the switch.
Turn the switch 90°anti-clockwise and
remove it from the brake pedal bracket (see
illustration).
44When refitting, hold the pedal in the fully
raised position, push in the switch and turn it
clockwise to lock it. Release the pedal and
check that at least 2 mm (0.08 in) of the switch
plunger is visible (see illustration).
Oil pressure warning switch
All engines except DOHC
45This switch is located on the left-hand side
of the cylinder block. Access may be impeded
by one of the manifolds and associated
equipment.
46Disconnect the wire from the switch, then
unscrew the switch and remove it.
47Clean the switch and its seat before
refitting. Apply a little sealant to the switch
threads if wished.
48Run the engine and check that there are
no oil leaks from the switch. Stop the engine
and check the oil level.
DOHC engines
49On these engines the switch is located on
the right-hand side of the cylinder block
between the core plugs.
13•12Body electrical system
15.24 Door pillar switch securing screws
(arrowed)
15.43 Stop-light switch fitted to brake
pedal bracket
15.44 Fitting the stop-light switch (A)
Plunger protrusion (between arrows) must be
at least 2 mm (0.08 in)
15.31 Removing a window operating switch15.39 Handbrake “On” switch
procarmanuals.com

17Refit by inserting the switch into the
grommet - use a new grommet if necessary -
and screwing on the retaining ring. Reconnect
the multi-plug and top-up the cooling system.
Washer fluid level switch
18Syphon the fluid out of the washer
reservoir until the level is below the switch.
19Disconnect the switch multi-plug.
Carefully prise the switch out of its grommet
and remove it. Note how flats on the grommet
and switch ensure correct fitting (see
illustration).
20When refitting, make sure that the
grommet is in good condition (renew if
necessary) and is correctly seated. Press the
switch home, reconnect the multi-plug and
refill the reservoir.
Control assembly
Models before April 1992
21Remove the instrument panel surround
and the facia top.
22Remove the two nuts which secure the
assembly(see illustration).Disconnect the
multi-plug by pressing in the locking lever and
pulling the plug. Remove the control
assembly.
23Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Check the AWS for correct operation before
refitting the disturbed trim.
Models from April 1992
24Unclip and remove the right-hand facia
undercover panel.25Carefully prise out the bonnet release lever
surround to gain access to the lever retaining
screws. Undo the three screws then withdraw
the lever. Remove the cable retaining clip and
detach the operating lever from the cable.
26Slacken and remove the five right-hand
lower facia panel retaining screws and remove
the panel from the vehicle.
27Undo the module retaining screw then
disconnect the wiring connectors and remove
the control module from the vehicle (see
illustration).
28Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure.
Bulb failure module
Models before April 1992
29Remove the under-dash trim on the
driver’s side. This is secured by six screws,
one of which is only accessible after removing
the air vent grille.
30Pull the module from its bracket.
Disconnect the multi-plug by pressing in the
locking lever and pulling the plug. Remove the
module (see illustration).
31Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Models from April 1992
32Remove the right-hand facia undercover
and lower facia panel.
33The bulb failure module is the right-hand
of the two modules situated directly above the
control pedals. Release the module retaining
clips then disconnect the wiring connector and
remove the module from the vehicle.
34Refitting is a reverse of remova.l
Control switches
1Remove the steering wheel.
2Remove the three screws which secure the
horn contact plate. Disconnect the spade
terminals and remove the contact plate.
3Carefully prise the switch out of the steering
wheel. Disconnect the spade terminals and
remove it.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Vacuum dump valve/switch
5Remove the under-dash trim on the driver’s
side.
6For the brake pedal, slacken the switch top
and bottom mounting nuts, then remove the
bottom nut completely. Disconnect the wiring
plug and vacuum hose from the switch and
remove it.
7The clutch pedal switch is mounted in a
spring-loaded bracket to allow for small
changes in pedal position with the operation of
the self-adjusting mechanism. Disconnect the
wiring plug and vacuum hose, then push the
switch out of its bracket.
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Adjust the switch position so that there is a
gap of at least 1.5 mm (0.06 in) between the
switch plunger cap and the body of the switch
(see illustration).
28Speed control system
components - removal and
refitting
Body electrical system 13•19
13
27.16 Removing the coolant level switch27.19 Removing the washer fluid level
switch27.22 Auxiliary warning system control
assembly - retaining nuts arrowed
27.27 Removing the auxiliary warning
system control module27.30 The bulb failure module secured to
the under-dash trim28.8 Vacuum dump valve/switch (B)
X = 1.5 mm (0.06 in) minimum
procarmanuals.com

Speed control module
Models before April 1992
9Refer to Section 27. The speed control
module shares the same mountings as the
AWS module; the AWS module is larger.
Models from April 1992
10The speed control module fitted to these
models is situated behind the glovebox on the
left-hand side of the facia. To gain access to
the module remove the left-hand facia
undercover panel. The speed control module
is vertically mounted just to the right of the
engine management module. Push the module
upwards to release the retaining clips then
lower it out from under the facia and
disconnect the wiring connector (see
illustration).
11Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure ensuring that the module is
securely retained by the retaining clips.
Vacuum pump
12The vacuum pump is located behind the
left-hand headlight on carburettor models, and
behind the right-hand headlight on fue-
injection models. Start by removing the
appropriate headlight unit.
13Disconnect the multi-plug and the vacuum
hose from the pump. The multi-plug is
released by squeezing and pulling it at the
same time.
14Prise out the three mountings and remove
the pump.
15When refitting, pull the pump mountings
into position with pliers. 16Reconnect the vacuum hose and the
multi-plug, then refit the headlight unit.
Vacuum servo
17Disconnect the servo-to-throttle linkage
cable at one end.
18Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
servo.
19Undo the servo retaining nut and remove
the servo from its bracket.
20Refit by reversing the removal operations.
On all but 2.0 litre carburettor models, adjust
the cable so that it is slightly slack when the
throttle linkage is in the idle position (pedal
released).
21On 2.0 litre carburettor models, the
stepper motor plunger must be withdrawn
before the cable is adjusted. Proceed as
follows.
22Observe the stepper motor plunger. Have
an assistant switch on the ignition for a few
seconds, then switch it off again. When the
ignition is switched off, the stepper motor
plunger will retract fully (“vent manifold”
position). Disconnect the battery negative lead
while the stepper motor plunger is retracted.
23Adjust the servo cable so that it is slightly
slack, then reconnect the battery negative
lead.
Printed circuit board
24The printed circuit board is located in the
steering wheel. It can be removed after
detaching the horn contact plate and
disconnecting the switch spade terminals as
described at the beginning of this Section.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Pull off the rubber sealing strip from the top
of the plenum chamber (see illustration).
3Pull the two wiring harness clips from the
front of the plenum chamber (see illustration).
4Remove the two screws and two clips
which secure the plenum chamber cover (see
illustration). Lift out the cover.
5Disconnect the multi-plug from the blower
motor resistor. Also disconnect the motor
earth cable (see illustration).
6Remove the two nuts which secure the
motor assembly. Lift out the motor, casing and
resistor together.
7The casing halves and the resistor can be
separated from the motor after prising open
the clamp which holds the casing halves
together.
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Two DIN standard extraction tools will be
needed to remove the radio/cassette unit.
These tools are available from vehicle audio
equipment specialists.
Radio (only)
2Pull off the control knobs, remove the
spindle nuts and washers and remove the
radio face plate.
3Push the two securing lugs inwards, at the
same time pulling the radio from its location.
The services of an assistant may be required.
4Withdraw the radio and disconnect the
aerial cable and the other wiring plugs from it.
5If a new radio is to be fitted, transfer the
support brackets and locating plate from the
old unit to the new one.
6Refit by reconnecting the wiring to the radio,
then sliding it into its aperture. Press it in until
the securing lugs click into position.
7Refit the face plate, spindle nuts and washers
and control knobs. The top of the face plate is
marked on the side which faces the radio.
30Radio or radio/cassette
player (original equipment) -
removal and refitting
29Heater blower motor -
removal and refitting
13•20Body electrical system
28.10 Removing the speed control module
29.4 One of the plenum chamber cover
clips29.5 Blower motor showing wiring
connections
29.2 Pulling off the rubber sealing strip29.3 Pulling out a wiring harness clip
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The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according
to the recommended service schedules should not have to use this
section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such
that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are
inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is
comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of
sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical
failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms
over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which
do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried
in the vehicle.With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begin
investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the fault
recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses or
REF•5Fault Finding
Engine1
m mEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mStarter motor turns engine slowly
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine difficult to start when cold
m mEngine difficult to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misfires at idle speed
m mEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mEngine hesitates on acceleration
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
m mEngine noises
Cooling system2
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCorrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems3
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m mExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Clutch4
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m mJudder as clutch is engaged
m mNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual gearbox5
m
mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mDifficulty engaging gears
m mJumps out of gear
m mVibration
m mLubricant leaks
Automatic transmission6
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smellm mGeneral gear selection problems
m mTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
m mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
Propeller shaft7
m
mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m mVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Final drive and driveshafts8
m
mExcessive final drive noise
m mOil leakage from final drive
m mGrating, knocking or vibration from driveshafts
Braking system9
m
mVehicle pulls to one side under braking
m mNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m mExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m mPedal pulsates when braking hard
m mBrakes binding
m mRear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems10
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mWheel wobble and vibration
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during braking
m mWandering or general instability
m mExcessively-stiff steering
m mExcessive play in steering
m mLack of power assistance
m mTyre wear excessive
Electrical system11
m
mLights inoperative
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine
running
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m mInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m mHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
Introduction
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