1985 FORD GRANADA trunk

4With the engine cold, disconnect the cold
air inlet trunking from the spout. Look into the
spout and check that the flap valve is covering
the hot air inlet.
5Start the engine and allow it to idle. Check
that the flap moves to cover the cold air inlet. If
the flap does not move, check the diaphragm
and heat sensor as follows.
6Stop the engine. Disconnect the diaphragm
vacuum pipe from the heat sensor. Apply
vacuum to the diaphragm, using a vacuum
head pump or by connecting the pipe directly
to manifold vacuum. If the flap now moves, the
heat sensor or vacuum line was faulty. If the
flap still does not move, the diaphragm is
faulty or the flap is jammed.
7On completion reconnect the vacuum pipe
and the cold air trunking.
Mechanical
1Carburettor models without air conditioning
are fitted with a mechanical fuel pump, located
on the left-hand side of the engine block.
2To test the pump, disconnect the ignition
coil LT lead. Disconnect the outlet hose from
the pump and place a wad of rag next to the
pump outlet. Take appropriate fire
precautions.
3Have an assistant crank the engine on the
starter. Well-defined spurts of fuel must beejected from the pump outlet - if not, the pump
is probably faulty (or the tank is empty).
Dispose of the fuel-soaked rag safely.
4To remove the fuel pump, first disconnect
the battery negative lead.
5Disconnect and plug the pump inlet and
outlet hoses. Be prepared for fuel spillage.
6Unscrew the two bolts and withdraw the
pump from the cylinder block. Remove the
gasket. If necessary extract the pushrod (see
illustrations).
7Clean the exterior of the pump in paraffin
and wipe dry. Clean all traces of gasket from
the cylinder block and pump flange.
8If the fuel pump has a removable cover,
remove the screw and withdraw the cover and
nylon mesh filter with seal (see illustrations).
Clean the filter, cover and pump in fuel. Locate
the filter in the cover and fit the cover to the
pump so that the pipe and indentation are
aligned. Tighten the screw.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
new gasket and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque. If necessary discard the
crimped type hose clips and fit screw type
clips.
Electrical
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
10All fuel-injection models, and carburettor
models when fitted with air conditioning, have
an electric fuel pump. The two types of pump
are not the same, although both are mounted
under the vehicle next to the fuel tank.11If the fuel pump appears to have failed
completely, check the appropriate fuse and
relay. On fuel-injection models, also check the
inertia switch (when fitted).
12To test the carburettor type pump,
disconnect the fuel supply hose from the
pressure regulator or vapour separator in the
engine compartment. Lead the hose into a
measuring cylinder.
13Take appropriate fire precautions. Switch
on the ignition for 30 seconds and measure
the quantity of fuel delivered: it should be at
least 400 cc (0.7 pint).
14To test the fuel-injection type pump,
special equipment is required. Consult a Ford
dealer or other fuel-injection specialist. The
problem may be due to a clogged filter.
15To remove a pump, first disconnect the
battery negative lead. Take appropriate fire
precautions.
16Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
Clean the fuel pump and its surroundings.
17Clamp the tank-to-pump hose, or make
arrangements to collect the contents of the
fuel tank which will otherwise be released.
18Place a drain pan beneath the pump.
Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses; be
prepared for fuel spillage. Caution: Fuel under
pressure may spray out of the outlet hose
union as it is slackened.
19Disconnect the wiring plug from the pump.
20Slacken the pump bracket clamp bolt and
slide the pump out of the bracket.
21Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that all hoses and unions are in
good condition.
22On2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines up to mid-
1990, switch the ignition on and off five times,
without cranking the engine, to pressurise the
fuel system then check the pump unions for
signs of leakage.
23Run the engine and check for leaks.
DOHC engine
24On these models the fuel pump is
mounted in the fuel tank, on the same
mounting as the fuel level sender unit(see
illustration).To test the pump specialist
equipment is required, therefore this task must
be entrusted to a Ford dealer.
4Fuel pump - testing, removal
and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•5
4
4.6a Removing the mechanical fuel pump4.6b Fuel pump pushrod
4.8a Removing the fuel pump cover - note
alignment indentations4.8b Fuel pump cover and filter screenA Fuel pumpB Fuel level sender unit
4.24 Combined fuel pump/fuel level sender
unit
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9Unscrew the securing nut, and release the
air inlet tube from the bracket on the engine
compartment front panel.
10Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle
speed control valve.
11Release the air cleaner lid securing clips,
then remove the air inlet tube, plenum
chamber, and air cleaner lid as an assembly,
disconnecting the breather hose from the air
inlet tube.
12Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
withdraw the valve from the air inlet tube (see
illustration). Recover the gasket.
13Clean the valve and air inlet tube mating
faces before refitting, taking care not to allow
dirt to enter the air inlet tube.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, using a
new gasket.15On completion, start the engine and check
that the idle speed is stable - if not, check for
air leaks around the valve. Switch on all
available electrical loads and check that the
idle speed is maintained - if not, suspect a
faulty valve.
OHC engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Release the locking clip and disconnect the
multi-plug from the meter (see illustration).
3Release the hose clip and disconnect the air
trunking from the meter.
4Unclip the air cleaner cover and remove it
with the meter. Do not drop or jar it.
5To separate the meter from the cover,
remove the four retaining bolts.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the seal in the air cleaner cover
is correctly located and align the hose clip
(seeillustration).
7Check the exhaust CO level on completion.
V6 engines
8Proceed as described above, noting that
there are two meters instead of one.
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2On V6 models, remove the throttle linkage
cover, which is secured by three screws.
3Remove the trunking which connects the
airflow meter(s) to the inlet manifold.
4On OHCmodels, release the distributor cap
and place it clear of the fuel rail. It will be
necessary to disconnect the cap-to-coil HT
lead at the coil.
5Disconnect the multi-plugs from the idle
speed control valve, the throttle position
sensor and the coolant temperature sensor.
6On V6 models, unclip the HT leads from the
fuel pressure regulator bracket.
7Disconnect the vacuum and fuel pipes from
the fuel pressure regulator, and the fuel feed
union from the fuel rail (see illustration). Be
prepared for fuel spillage.
8On V6 models, disconnect the throttle
cable(s). Remove the plenum chamber and
throttle body.
9Disconnect the injector wiring harness.
10Unbolt the fuel rail and remove it with the
injectors (see illustrations). It will be
necessary to pull on the rail in order to free the
injectors from the manifold.
11Disconnect the multi-plugs from the
injectors (see illustration).
36Fuel-injectors - removal and
refitting
35Vane airflow meter(s) -
removal and refitting
4•16Fuel and exhaust systems
34.12 Withdrawing the idle speed control
valve
36.7 Fuel feed union (arrowed) on fuel rail
36.10a Fuel rail and injectors36.10b Fuel rail retaining bolts (arrowed) on
V6 inlet manifold36.11 Disconnecting a fuel injector multi-
plug
35.2 Disconnecting the airflow meter multi-
plug. Meter is inverted to show locking clip
(arrowed)35.6 Correct alignment of air inlet trunking
and hose clip
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12Extract the retaining clips and pull the
injectors out of the fuel rail(see illustration).
13The sealing rings and retaining clips on all
injectors must be renewed, even if only one
injector has been removed from the rail. The
lower seal fits between the thick and thin
washers at the tip of the injector (see
illustration).
14Commence refitting by coating the injector
sealing rings with silicone grease to Ford spec
ESEM 1C171A.
15Press the injectors into the fuel rail and
secure them with the new retaining clips.
Press the clips home.
16Reconnect the multi-plugs to the injectors.
17Place the assembled fuel rail on the inlet
manifold and press the injectors into their
holes.
18On V6 models, fit and tighten the fuel rail
bolts. Refit the plenum chamber, using new
gaskets, and tighten the bolts to the specified
torque. Reconnect the throttle cable(s).
19On OHCmodels, fit the fuel rail bolts but
do not tighten them yet.
20On all models, reconnect the fuel and
vacuum pipes. Tighten the fuel pipe unions.
21On OHCmodels, tighten the fuel rail bolts
to the specified torque.
22Reconnect the multi-plugs which were
displaced during removal. On V6 models,
secure the HT leads to the pressure regulator
bracket.
23On OHCmodels, refit the distributor cap.
24Refit the air inlet trunking.
25On V6 models, refit the throttle linkage
cover.
26Reconnect the battery. Run the engine
and check that there are no fuel leaks.
27Check the exhaust CO level.
DOHC engine
28Disconnect the battery negative lead.
29If desired, to improve access, disconnect
the wiring from the inlet air temperature sensor
in the inlet manifold. Similarly, the throttle
cable can be moved to one side by
disconnecting the cable from the throttle
linkage and the spark plug HT leads can be
disconnected and moved to one side, noting
their locations and routing to aid refitting.
30Slowly loosen the fuel rail fuel feed unionto relieve the pressure in the system. Be
prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate
fire precautions.
31Disconnect the fuel feed hose from the
fuel rail (see illustration).
32Disconnect the fuel return hose from the
fuel pressure regulator. Again, be prepared for
fuel spillage.
33Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top
of the fuel pressure regulator.
34Disconnect the wiring plugs from the fuel
temperature sensor and the fuel-injectors,
noting their locations to assist with refitting.
35Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
withdraw the fuel rail.
36Lift the fuel-injectors from their locations in
the cylinder head (see illustration).
37Overhaul of the fuel-injectors is not
possible, as no spares are available. If faulty,
an injector must be renewed.
38Commence refitting by fitting new seals to
both ends of each fuel-injector. It is advisable
to fit new seals to all the injectors, even if only
one has been removed. Lubricate the seals
with clean engine oil.
39Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
ensuring that all hoses, pipes and wiring plugs
are correctly connected.
40On completion, where applicable, check
and if necessary adjust the idle mixture.
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines
41Disconnect the battery.
42Remove the air inlet pipes from the throttle
housing.43Disconnect the link arm from the throttle
housing and unscrew the two bolts which
retain the throttle cable bracket.
44Disconnect the vacuum pipes from the
throttle housing, crankcase vent valve and the
fuel pressure regulator.
45Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
throttle position sensor, engine and coolant
temperature sensors and the idle speed
control valve.
46Extract the six Torx bolts which hold the
air inlet chamber in position.
47Carefully disconnect the fuel-injector
wiring connectors (see illustration).
48Depressurise the fuel system.
49Disconnect the fuel rail feed pipe and the
fuel return pipe. This is best done at the wing
valance and will require cutting the crimped
hose clips.
50The crimped-type clips must then be
replaced with standard worm drive hose clips
on refitting.
51Unscrew the fuel rail retaining bolts and
remove the fuel rail.
52Extract the retaining clips and remove the
injectors from the fuel rail.
53Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure bearing in mind the following.
54Renew all the upper and lower injector
seals, even if only one injector has been
disturbed. Lubricate all new seals with clean
engine oil.
55On models fitted with an early level fuel
pressure regulator, it is necessary to fit a new
fuel inlet pipe to the fuel rail, the new
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•17
4
36.12 Removing a fuel injector from the rail
A Retaining clip36.13 Injector with seals removed36.31 Disconnecting the fuel feed hose
from the fuel rail
36.36 Lifting a fuel injector from the
cylinder head36.47 Disconnecting a fuel injector wiring
connector
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24Unbolt and remove the regulator from the
fuel rail. Remove the sealing O-ring and
discard it; a new one must be used on
refitting.
25Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure applying a smear of clean engine oil
to the new regulator O-ring. On models
equipped with a late level regulator, ensure
that the return pipe is securely held in position
by the retaining collar.
26On completion, switch the ignition on and
off five times without cranking the engine to
pressurise the fuel system.
27With the system pressurised check all
disturbed fuel unions for signs of leakage.
1The potentiometer is located on the right-
hand side of the engine compartment, behind
the MAP sensor.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the securing screw, then withdraw
the potentiometer and disconnect the wiring
plug.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal. On
completion adjust the idle mixture.1On 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines, disconnect the
battery.
2Disconnect the switch wiring connector.
3Slacken and remove the switch from the
fuel rail (see illustration).
4Refitting is a reverse of removal, tightening
the switch to the specified torque setting.
Carburettor models
All engines except DOHC
1Remove the carburettor or, if preferred, the
final removal of the carburettor from the
manifold can be left until the manifold has
been removed).
2Drain the cooling system.
3Disconnect the coolant and vacuum pipes
from the manifold, noting their positions if
there is any possibility of confusion.
4Disconnect the wires from the manifold
heater and the coolant temperature sender
unit.
5Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
from the manifold.
6Unscrew the six nuts and bolts which
secure the manifold and withdraw it. Recover
the gasket.
7Before refitting the manifold, make sure that
the mating surfaces are perfectly clean.
8Apply a bead of sealant at least 5 mm (0.2 in)
wide around the central coolant aperture on
both sides of a new gasket.
9Place the gasket over the studs, then fit the
manifold and secure it with the six nuts and
bolts. Tighten the nuts and bolts evenly to the
specified torque.
10The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
the removal procedure. Refill the cooling
system on completion.
DOHC engine
11Disconnect the battery negative lead.
12Drain the cooling system.13Remove the air cleaner.
14Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing and the inlet manifold,
noting the locations to assist with refitting.
15Disconnect the fuel supply and return
hoses from the carburettor. Plug their ends to
minimise petrol spillage.
16Release the coolant hose from the bracket
under the automatic choke housing.
17Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs, and move them to one side.
18Disconnect all relevant wiring and vacuum
pipes from the carburettor, thermostat
housing and inlet manifold, noting the
locations as an aid to refitting.
19Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the inlet manifold.
20Disconnect the throttle cable from the
throttle linkage.
21Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the
manifold.
22Unscrew the ten bolts and two nuts
securing the manifold to the cylinder head.
23Lift the manifold clear of the cylinder head
and recover the gasket.
24Recover the two plastic spark plug spacers
from the recesses in the cylinder head.
25If desired, the carburettor can be removed
from the manifold by unscrewing the securing
screws.
26Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Ensure that all mating faces are clean and
renew all gaskets.
b)Ensure that the spark plug spacers are in
position in the cylinder head recesses
before refitting the manifold.
c)Tighten all manifold securing nuts and
bolts progressively to the specified torque.
d)Make sure that all hoses, pipes and wires
are securely reconnected in their original
positions. Replace all crimp-type hose
clips (where fitted) with standard worm
drive hose clips.
e)On completion, refill the cooling system,
check the adjustment of the throttle cable,
then check, and if necessary adjust the
idle speed and mixture.
Fuel-injection models
SOHC engine
27Disconnect the battery negative lead.
28Drain the cooling system.
29Disconnect the vacuum pipe(s) from the
manifold. The number of pipes varies
according to equipment. Label the pipes if
necessary (see illustration).
30Disconnect the fuel-injection harness
multi-plugs at the bulkhead end of the
manifold (see illustration).
31Disconnect the oil pressure warning light
sender wire from below the manifold.
32Release the hose clips and move the
airflow meter-to-manifold trunking clear of the
manifold.
40Inlet manifold - removal and
refitting
39Fuel rail temperature switch -
removal and refitting
38Mixture adjustment
potentiometer - removal and
refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•19
4
39.3 Fuel rail components
A Fuel pressure regulator
B Fuel temperature switch
C Fuel rail
D Fuel injectors
40.29 Manifold vacuum pipe T-piece
(arrowed)40.30 Fuel-injection wiring harness plugs
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55Release the throttle position sensor wiring
connector from the clip under the throttle
body, and separate the two halves of the
connector.
56Remove the fuel-injectors.
57Check that all relevant wiring, hoses and
pipes have been disconnected to facilitate
removal of the manifold.
58Unscrew the ten bolts and two nuts
securing the inlet manifold to the cylinder
head, and carefully withdraw the manifold.
Recover the gasket.
59Recover the two plastic spark plug
spacers from the recesses in the cylinder head
(see illustration).
60If desired, the manifold can be dismantled
with reference to the relevant paragraphs of
this Chapter.
61Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Ensure that the spark plug spacers are in
position in the cylinder head recesses
before refitting the manifold.
b)Ensure manifold and cylinder head mating
surfaces are clean and dry and fit a new
gasket.
c)Tighten the manifold retaining nuts and
bolts evenly and progressively to the
specified torque.
d)Refit the fuel-injectors.
e)Make sure that all hoses, pipes and wires
are securely reconnected in their original
positions.
f)On completion, refill the cooling system.
g)Check the adjustment of the throttle cable
and where necessary, adjust the speed
control cable so that only a small amount
of slack is present in the cable.
h)Where applicable, check and if necessary
adjust the idle speed and mixture.
V6 engines
62Disconnect the battery negative lead.
63Drain the cooling system.
64Remove the throttle linkage cover.
65Release the hose clips and move the
airflow meter-to-manifold trunking aside.
Unclip or remove the crankcase ventilation
hose.
66Disconnect the radiator top hose and the
heater hose from the outlet at the front of the
manifold. Be prepared for some coolant spillage.67Disconnect the multi-plugs from the idle
speed control valve, the temperature gauge
sender unit; the coolant temperature sensor
and the throttle position sensor. Also
disconnect the injector wiring harness.
68Disconnect the throttle cable from the
linkage, unclip it and move it aside. On
automatic transmission models, also
disconnect the downshift cable or multi-plug,
as applicable.
69Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes.
Be prepared for fuel spillage.
70Remove the HT leads and the distributor.
71Remove the plenum chamber, which is
secured by eight bolts.
72Remove the rocker covers, which are each
secured by seven bolts.
73Disconnect the water pump bypass hose
from the inlet manifold.
74Remove the eight bolts which secure the
inlet manifold to the cylinder heads.
75Lift off the manifold complete with fuel
pressure regulator, fuel rail, throttle body
housing etc. If it is stuck, carefully lever it free.
Do not apply leverage at the mating faces.
Recover the gasket.
76Clean all mating faces, being careful to
keep dirt out of ports and other orifices.
Obtain new gaskets for both the cylinder head
and plenum chamber sides of the manifold,
and for the rocker covers.
77Commence refitting by applying sealant
(Ford part No A70X-19554-BA, or equivalent)
around the ports and coolant passages on the
cylinder head.
78Apply sealant around the apertures on
both sides of the gasket. then fit the gasket to
the cylinder heads.
79Refit the manifold and insert the securing
bolts. Tighten the bolts, in the order shown
(see illustration),through the first four stages
given in the Specifications.
80Refit the water pump bypass hose.
81Refit the rocker covers, using new
gaskets. The adhesive sides of the gaskets
must face the covers.
82Reverse the remaining removal
operations, but do not refit the throttle linkage
cover yet.
83When the cooling system has beenrefilled, reconnect the battery and start the
engine. Check for fuel and other leaks.
84Bring the engine to operating temperature,
then stop it and carry out the final tightening of
the inlet manifold bolts as follows.
85Release the air inlet trunking. Unplug the
idle speed control valve and the throttle
position sensor. Unbolt the plenum chamber
and move it aside, disconnecting vacuum and
breather hoses as necessary.
86Slacken, but do not remove, the two bolts
which secure the fuel rail to the manifold.
87Tighten the inlet manifold bolts to the
Stage 5 specified torque, again following the
sequence shown. A special cranked spanner
(Ford tool No 21-079, or equivalent)(see
illustration)will be needed to tighten No 4
bolt when the distributor is fitted. In the
absence of such a spanner, remove the
distributor again.
88Tighten the fuel rail securing bolts.
89Refit the disturbed components. Run the
engine again and check the ignition timing and
the exhaust CO level .
90Refit the throttle linkage cover.
SOHC and all V6 engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Apply copious quantities of penetrating oil
to the manifold and exhaust pipe flange nuts
and bolts.
3On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner and the hot air pick-up pipe.
4Unbolt any heat shields or shrouds from the
manifold.
5Unbolt the exhaust pipe(s) from the manifold
flange. Support the exhaust system if
necessary.
6Unbolt the manifold from the cylinder head
and remove it. Recover the gasket.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Use a new gasket, and apply anti-seize
compound to the various nuts and bolts.
Tighten the manifold fastenings to the
specified torque.
41Exhaust manifold(s) - removal
and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•21
4
40.59 Removing a spark plug spacer from
the cylinder head recess40.79 Inlet manifold bolt tightening
sequence
Arrow points to front of engine40.87 Cranked spanner needed for
tightening V6 inlet manifold bolt with
distributor fitted
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