1983 FIAT UNO check engine

Sump pan -
removal and refitting Á
60Drain the engine oil.
61Unbolt and remove the cover plate from
the lower part of the flywheel housing (photo).
The two lower bolts retain the gearchange rod
support strut.
62Unscrew the sump pan securing screws
and pull the sump pan downwards to remove
it (photo). The joint sealant will require cutting
with a sharp knife to release the pan. Clean
away all old gasket material.
63A bead 3.0 mm in diameter of RTV
silicone instant gasket should be applied to
the sump pan flange and then the pan offered
up. Screw in the fixing screws and tighten to
the specified torque. Note the flange end
fixing screw nuts (photos).64Wait one hour before filling with engine oil.
65Refit the flywheel housing cover plate.Oil pump - removal,
checking and refitting#
66Drain the engine oil and remove the sump
pan as described in the last sub-Section.
Unscrew and remove the oil filter cartridge.
67Remove the timing belt.
68Lock the crankshaft against rotation either
by placing a block of wood between a
crankshaft web and the inside of the
crankcase or by jamming the flywheel starter
ring gear with a suitable tool.
69Unscrew and remove the crankshaft
sprocket bolt and take off the timing belt
sprocket. If it is tight, use two screwdrivers to
lever it off or use a two- or three-legged puller.
70Unbolt and remove the oil pick-up/filter
screen assembly. Note the sealing washer.71Extract the oil pump fixing bolts and
withdraw the pump.
72The oil pump incorporates a pressure
relief valve which can be removed for
examination by depressing the spring plunger
and pulling out the keeper plate (photos).
73If pump wear is suspected, check the
gears in the following way. Extract the fixing
screws and remove the rear cover plate. The
screws are very tight and will probably require
the use of an impact driver to release them
(photo).
74Check the clearance between the outer
gear and the pump housing using feeler
blades, and also the gear endfloat by placing
a straight-edge across the pump body and
checking the gap between the straight-edge
and gear face. If the clearances are outside
the specified tolerance, renew the oil pump
complete (photos).
13•24 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
5B.74B Checking the oil pump gear
endfloat5B.74A Checking the oil pump gear-to-
housing clearance5B.73 Removing the oil pump rear cover
plate screws
5B.72B Oil pump relief valve components5B.72A Removing the oil pump relief valve
keeper plate5B.63B Sump pan flange end fixing screw
and nut
5B.63A Tightening a sump pan screw5B.62 Removing the sump pan5B.61 Removing the flywheel housing
cover plate

75If the pump is unworn, refit the rear cover
plate and tighten the screws fully.
76Apply air pressure from a tyre pump to the
oil pump oil ducts to clear any sludge or other
material and then prime the pump by pouring
clean engine oil into its intake duct at the
same time turning the oil pump inner gear with
the fingers.
77Lever out the oil seal and drive a new one
squarely into the oil pump casing (photos).
Lubricate the oil seal lips.
78Bolt the pump into position using a new
joint gasket. Note one bolt is longer than the
others (photo).
79Bolt on the oil pick-up assembly using a
new sealing washer.
80Fit the crankshaft sprocket and tighten the
bolt to specified torque.
81Fit and tension the timing belt.
82Fit the sump pan. Screw on a new oil filter
cartridge. Wait for the specified period of time
(one hour) and then fill the engine with oil.
83Run the engine for a few minutes, then
check and top up the oil level.
Pistons/connecting rods -
removal and refitting#
84Remove the sump pan.
85Unbolt and remove the oil pump
pick-up/filter screen assembly.
86The big-end bearing shells can be
renewed without having to remove the
cylinder head if the caps are unbolted and the
piston/connecting rod pushed gently about
one inch up the bore (the crankpin being at its
lowest point). If these shells are worn,however, the main bearing shells will almost
certainly be worn as well, necessitating a
complete overhaul, including crankshaft
removal.
87To remove the piston/connecting rods,
the cylinder head must be removed.
88The big-end caps and their connecting
rods are numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4 from the
timing cover end of the engine. The numbers
are located either side of the rod/cap joint on
the engine oil dipstick tube side (photo).
89Turn the crankshaft as necessary to bring
the first connecting rod big-end crankpin to its
lowest point, then unscrew the cap bolts and
remove the cap and shell bearing.
90Push the connecting rod/piston assembly
up the bore and out of the cylinder block.
There is one reservation; if a wear ridge has
developed at the top of the bores, remove this
by careful scraping before trying to remove
the piston/rod assemblies. The ridge will
otherwise prevent removal, or break the
piston rings during the attempt.
91Remove the remaining piston/connecting
rods in a similar way. If the bearing shells are
to be used again, tape them to their
respective caps or rods.
92Removal of the piston rings and
separation of the piston from the connecting
rod is covered in the next sub-Section.
93Fit the bearing shells into the connecting
rods and caps, ensuring that the recesses into
which the shells seat are clean and dry.
94Check that the piston ring gaps are evenly
spaced at 120º intervals. Liberally oil the rings
and the cylinder bores.95Fit a piston ring clamp to compress the
rings, oiling the rings and the clamp interior
surfaces liberally.
96Insert the first piston/connecting rod into
its cylinder bore. Make sure that the assembly
is the correct one for its particular bore. The
cap and rod matching numbers must be
towards the engine oil dipstick guide tube and
the arrow on the piston crown towards the
timing belt (photo).
97Push the piston into the bore until the
piston ring clamp is against the cylinder block
and then tap the crown of the piston lightly to
push it out of the ring clamp and into the bore
(photo).
98Oil the crankshaft journal and fit the
big-end of the connecting rod to the journal.
Check that the bearing shells are still in
position, then fit the big-end cap and bolts;
check that the cap is the right way round
(photo).
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•25
5B.78 Fitting the oil pump5B.77B Using a socket to fit the new oil
pump oil seal5B.77A Removing the oil pump seal
5B.98 Fitting a big-end bearing cap
5B.88 Connecting rod and cap numbers
5B.97 Fitting a piston/connecting rod5B.96 Piston directional arrow
13

99Tighten the big-end bolts to the specified
torque (photo). The correct torque is
important as the bolts have no locking
arrangement. After tightening each big-end,
check that the crankshaft rotates smoothly.
100Repeat the operations on the remaining
piston/rod assemblies.
101Refit the oil pump pick-up assembly
using a new sealing ring.
102Refit the sump pan and the cylinder head
as described in earlier sub-Sections.
103Fill the engine with oil and coolant.
Pistons/connecting rods -
separation and piston
ring renewal
ª
104If the piston/connecting rods have been
removed in order to renew the piston rings,
refer to Chapter 1, Section 18, but note thatthe piston rings should be fitted so that the
word TOP is uppermost.
105If new pistons are to be fitted, it is
recommended that the gudgeon pins are
removed and refitted by a FIAT dealer as the
connecting rods must be carefully heated in
order to be able to push the gudgeon pin out
of the rod small-end, change the piston and
push the pin back into position. Locating the
gudgeon pin will require a special tool. The
gudgeon pin is a sliding fit in the piston but an
interference fit in the connecting rod.
106Refer to Fig. 13.6 for the correct
assembly of the piston and connecting rod.
Engine/transmission mountings
- renewal
107Refer to Chapter 1, Section 33. Three
mountings are used (photos).
PART C: ENGINE REMOVAL
AND DISMANTLING
Method of removal - general
1The engine, complete with transmission,
should be removed upwards out of the engine
compartment.
Engine/transmission -
removal and separation #
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
2Mark the position of the hinges on the
underside of the bonnet and then, with the
help of an assistant, unscrew the hinge bolts
and lift the bonnet to a safe storage area.
3Drain the coolant; a cylinder block drain
plug is not fitted.
4Drain the engine and transmission oils.
5Disconnect the battery, negative lead first.
6Remove the air filter.
7Disconnect the radiator hoses from the
engine (photos).
13•26 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
5C.7B Radiator hose at thermostat
housing5C.7A Radiator hose connection to coolant
distribution tube5B.107C Right-hand engine mounting
5B.107B Left-hand rear
engine/transmission mounting5B.107A Left-hand front
engine/transmission mounting
Fig. 13.6 Piston/connecting rod correctly
assembled - 999 and 1108 cc engine
(Sec 5B)
1 Piston grade (A) and directional arrow on
piston crown (towards timing belt)
2 Rod/cap matching numbers
3 Gudgeon pin offset in piston (0.9 to 1.1 mm)
Arrow indicates crankshaft rotation direction
Fig. 13.5 Piston ring arrangement on the
999 cc engine (Sec 5B)5B.99 Tightening a big-end cap bolt

crankcase. If the shells are to be used again,
keep them with their respective bearing caps.
70The thrust washers which control
crankshaft endfloat are located in the
crankcase, and retained by the turned-over
edges of the centre main bearing shell.
71The engine is now fully stripped.
Examination and renovation
72The procedures for the following items are
essentially as described in Chapter 1, Sec-
tion 18.
Cylinder block and crankcase
Crankshaft and bearings
Flywheel
Oil seals and gaskets
Cylinder head
73Using a straight-edge, check the cylinder
head gasket surface for distortion. If it
exceeds the specified tolerance, it must be
surface ground by your dealer.74Refer to Chapter 1, Section 39, for
dismantling and renovation operations. Note
that single valve springs are fitted.
Oil pump
75Checking operations are described in
sub-Section B.
Pistons and connecting rods
76Refer to sub-Section B.
77If one or more connecting rods are
changed, it is important that its weight is
identical to that of the original. Use an
accurate balance to weigh them and remove
metal if necessary from the new rod in the
areas indicated in Fig. 13.7.
Camshaft and cam followers
78If the camshaft journals or bearings show
any sign of wear or scoring, then the
camshaft, or cylinder head, or both must be
renewed.
79The cam followers should be checked for
ovality using a micrometer. Unless unworn
they should be renewed.
Timing belt tensioner and timing belt
80The tensioner is a lubricant-sealed pulley,
and it should be tested for smooth and quiet
operation by turning it with the fingers. Any
evidence of roughness or rattle will indicate
the need for a new assembly (photo).81The timing belt should be inspected at
regular intervals for correct adjustment and
condition (see Section 3 or “Routine
maintenance” at the beginning of the Manual).
If there is evidence of worn teeth, cracking or
fraying, or oil contamination, renew the belt.
The vehicle manufacturers recommend that
the belt is renewed whenever it is removed,
and it should certainly be renewed at the
intervals specified in Section 3 or the main
“Routine maintenance” section at the
beginning of this Manual as a precautionary
measure against belt breakage and
consequent expensive engine damage.
PART D:
ENGINE REASSEMBLY AND
REFITTING
Reassembly - general
1Refer to Chapter 1, Section 19.
Complete reassembly#
2With the cylinder block/crankcase standing
on the work surface, fit the bearing half shells
into their crankcase seats (photo). Make sure
that the seats are perfectly clean as dirt or grit
trapped under the shell will cause binding
when the crankshaft is turned.
3The centre bearing crankcase web
incorporates the thrust washers held by the
lips of the bearing shell (photo).
4Oil the shells and lower the crankshaft into
the crankcase (photo).
5Fit the bearing shells into the main bearing
caps, again making sure that the shell seats
are perfectly clean (photo).
13•30 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
5D.5 Main bearing cap and shell5D.4 Fitting the crankshaft5D.3 Crankshaft thrust washer at centre
bearing
5D.2 Main bearing shell in crankcase
Fig. 13.8 Checking a cam follower for
ovality - 999 and 1108 cc engine (Sec 5C)
Fig. 13.7 Metal removing areas (arrowed)
on connecting rod - 999 and 1108 cc
engine (Sec 5C)
5C.80 Timing belt tensioner

6Fit the main bearing caps in their numbered
sequence and the correct way round (photo).
7Clean the threads of the main bearing cap
bolts, lightly oil them and screw them in
finger-tight. Tighten all bolts progressively to
the specified torque, then check that the
crankshaft turns smoothly and evenly
(photos).
8Now check the crankshaft endfloat. Do this
using a dial gauge or feeler blades inserted
between the machined shoulder of a journal
and the side of the bearing cap (photo). Move
the crankshaft fully in one direction and then
the other to ensure that full movement is
obtained. If the endfloat is outside the
specified tolerance and new bearing shellshave been fitted, then a fault must have
occurred during crankshaft regrinding.
9Fit a new oil seal to the crankshaft rear oil
seal retainer. Apply grease to the seal lips. A
conventional gasket is not used at the oil seal
joint face but a 3.0 mm diameter bead of RTV
silicone instant gasket must be applied
to a clean surface as shown in Fig. 13.9
(photo).
10Bolt the retainer into position. One hour at
least must be allowed for the RTV to cure
before oil contacts it.
11Turn the engine on its side and fit the
piston/connecting rods as described in
sub-Section B.
12Fit a new oil seal to the oil pump, oil theseal lips and bolt on the pump using a new
joint gasket (photos).
13Use a new sealing washer and fit the oil
pick-up/filter screen assembly.
14Fit the engine rear plate and then the
flywheel on its mounting flange. Apply
thread-locking fluid to (clean) bolt threads and
screw in the bolts to the specified torque
(photo). Hold the flywheel against rotation by
locking the starter ring gear with a suitable
tool.
15Fit the sump pan as described in
sub-Section B.
16Fit the crankshaft sprocket so that the
timing mark is visible. Lock the flywheel
starter ring gear teeth, and screw in and
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•31
5D.7B Angle-tightening a main bearing cap
bolt5D.7A Initial tightening of a main bearing
cap bolt5D.6 Fitting a main bearing cap
5D.14 Tightening a flywheel bolt5D.12B Tightening an oil pump bolt5D.12A Oil pump gasket
5D.9 Fitting crankshaft rear oil seal
retainerFig. 13.9 Application area for silicone
gasket on crankshaft rear oil seal retainer
(Sec 5D)5D.8 Checking crankshaft endfloat using a
dial gauge
13

separately, after the ten main bolts (see
Fig. 13.13).
Piston rings
14The piston rings comprise two
compression rings marked TOP, and an oil
control ring.
15Cross-sections and fitting details are
shown in Fig. 13.14.
Engine mountings - renewal
16The operations are essentially as
described in Section 33 of Chapter 1, but note
the design and fixings of the individual
mountings used on the turbocharged engine
(photos).
Timing belt - renewal#
17The operations described in Chapter 1,
Section 28 generally apply, but the following
differences should be noted.18Remove the engine compartment
right-hand shield. This is secured by plastic
clips. To remove a clip, push out its centre
pin.
19The TDC sensor must be unbolted to
provide room to remove and refit the timing
belt, which can be carried out without
having to remove the crankshaft pulley
(photos).
20The belt tensioner on later versions
does not incorporate a spring, but is of
eccentric centre bolt hole type. Have the
pulley bolt released, and tension the belt by
turning the pulley using a pin wrench or
circlip pliers in the two holes provided.
Keep the tension applied while the lockbolt
is tightened. Turn the crankshaft through
two complete turns, and then check the belt
tension. With moderate finger and thumb
pressure, the belt should just twist through90º when gripped at the mid-point of its
longest run (photo). Note: This procedure
serves only as a rough guide to setting the
belt tension - having it checked by a FIAT
dealer at the earliest opportunity is
recommended.
Oil pump drivegear cover plate
21Due to the fact that the distributor is
driven from the end of the camshaft, the oil
pump gear does not have an extension to
drive the distributor, which would be the case
if it was mounted on the crankcase.
22The crankcase aperture is therefore
covered by a plate and gasket, together with a
wiring clip (photo).
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•35
6B.13 Two of the four additional cylinder
head bolts (arrowed)
Fig. 13.14 Piston ring arrangement on the
1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 6B)Fig. 13.13 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence on the 1301 cc Turbo ie engine
(Sec 6B)
6B.22 Distributor drive hole cover plate
(arrowed)6B.20 Belt tensioner pulley locknut
(arrowed)6B.19B Removing the timing belt
6B.19A Removing the TDC sensor6B.16B Engine/transmission right-hand
mounting6B.16A Engine/transmission centre
mounting
13

Engine oil cooler -
removal and refittingÁ
23The oil cooler is mounted behind the front
bumper/spoiler (photo).
24Disconnect the oil flow and return hoses,
either from the cooler or the oil filter cartridge
mounting base. Be prepared for some
leakage of oil (photos).
25Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
the oil cooler heat exchanger (photo).
26When refitting, make sure that the banjo
union sealing washers are in good condition.
PART C: ENGINE REMOVAL,
DISMANTLING, REASSEMBLY
AND REFITTING
Engine/transmission -
removal and separation
#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
1Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35, and carry
out the operations described in paragraphs 1
to 11.
2Disconnect the excessive air pressure
switch from the inlet manifold.
3Disconnect the ducts and remove the
airflow meter.
4Disconnect the leads from the spark plugs
and the distributor LT connector, and unbolt
and remove the distributor from the rear end
of the camshaft carrier.
5Disconnect the fuel return hose from the
pressure regulator. 6Disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the
injector rail.
7Disconnect the wiring plugs from the fuel
injectors.
8Disconnect the leads from the oil pressure
sender unit, the low oil pressure switch and
the coolant temperature switch.
9Remove the hose/pipe assemblies from the
intercooler.
10Disconnect the throttle control rod at the
balljoint.
11Disconnect the hoses and ducts from the
turbocharger and the mechanical bypass
valve.
12Disconnect the leads from the engine
speed and anti-knock sensors.
13Raise the front of the car and support it
securely. As the engine/transmission will
eventually be lowered to the floor, make sure
that there is sufficient clearance under the
front end for the assembly to be withdrawn. If
the car is over an inspection pit, then the car
need only be raised enough to lift the
roadwheels from the floor.
14Remove the front roadwheels.
15Disconnect the transmission earth cable.
16Working under the car, remove the engine
shields from under the wheel arches.
17Remove the engine oil cooler, and the
intercooler.
18Unscrew the fixing screws and disconnect
the driveshafts from the flanges at the
transmission final drive. The right-hand
driveshaft will not release until the upper bolt
on the suspension strut-to-hub carrier clamphas been removed, and the hub assembly
tilted downwards.
19Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from
the manifold, and then remove the front
section of the exhaust system.
20Disconnect the coolant return pipe from
the turbocharger.
21Disconnect the gearchange control rods
from the transmission selector rod. Do this by
unscrewing the self-locking nut from the bolt
which connects the clevis fork.
22Attach suitable lifting gear to the engine
lifting eyes, and take the weight of the
engine/transmission.
23Disconnect the left-front, centre-rear and
the right-hand engine/transmission mountings.
Do this by removing the bolts from the
diamond-shaped mounting plates there is no
need to disturb the flexible mounting centre
bolts.
24Lower the engine/transmission to the floor
and withdraw it from under the car.
25Carry out the operations described in
Chapter 1, Section 35, paragraphs 27 to 31.
Engine dismantling and
reassembly
26The operations are essentially as
described for the 1301 cc engine in Chapter 1,
but reference must be made to Sections 9
and 10 of this Chapter for the procedures for
removing and refitting the components of the
fuel injection, turbocharger and ignition
systems.
Engine/transmission -
reconnection and refitting
27The operations are a reversal of those
described in paragraphs 1 to 25, but
otherwise the following (photo).
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
b) Use a new gasket at the exhaust
downpipe-to-manifold flange.
c) Check and adjust the clutch pedal travel.
d) Refill the cooling system.
e) Refill the engine and transmission with oil.
f) Reconnect the battery, negative lead
last.
13•36 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
6C.27 Filling the engine with oil6B.25 Oil cooler mounting bolts (arrowed)
6B.24B Connections at oil filter cartridge
mounting base6B.24A Oil cooler pipe connection
(arrowed)6B.23 Oil cooler

Initial start-up after major
overhaul
28Refer to Chapter 1, Section 45, but note
that an oil pressure gauge is fitted to indicate
oil pressure.
29Check the ignition static timing as
described in Section 10.
30Check the engine idle speed and CO level
as described in Section 9.
7 Engine-
1372 cc ie and 1372 cc
Turbo ie
PART A: GENERAL
Description
1The 1372 cc engine is similar in design to
the OHC engine fitted to the FIAT Tipo
variants. The engine is of four-cylinder, in-line,
overhead camshaft type, mounted
transversely at the front of the vehicle.
2The crankshaft runs in five main bearings.
Thrustwashers are fitted to the rear (flywheel
end) main bearing in order to control
crankshaft endfloat.
3The connecting rods are attached to the
crankshaft by horizontally split shell-type
big-end bearings. The pistons are attached to
the connecting rods by fully-floating gudgeon
pins which are secured by circlips. The
aluminium alloy pistons are fitted with three
piston rings: two compression rings and an oil
control ring.
4The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt
and operates the valves via bucket and shim
type cam followers. The camshaft is located in
a separate housing on top of the cylinder
head.
5The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by double valve springs, and operate
in guides pressed into the cylinder head.
6The auxiliary shaft, which is also driven by
the toothed belt, drives the oil pump.
7Lubrication is by means of a gear type
pump which draws oil through a strainer
located in the sump, and forces it through a
full-flow filter into the engine oil galleries fromwhere it is distributed to the crankshaft,
camshaft and auxiliary shaft. The big-end
bearings are supplied with oil via internal
drillings in the crankshaft. The undersides of
the pistons are cooled by oil spray nozzles
located in each main bearing location in the
crankcase.
8A crankcase ventilation system is
employed, whereby piston blow-by gases are
drawn via an oil separator into the air cleaner,
from where they are drawn into the inlet
manifold and re-burnt with fresh air/fuel
mixture.
9The 1372 cc ie engine is fitted with a Bosch
Mono-Jetronic single point fuel injection (SPi)
system. Whilst the higher performance
1372 cc Turbo ie engine is fitted with a Bosch
L3.1 (L3.2 from 1992) Jetronic multi-point
injection (MPi) system and turbocharger with
intercooler and oil cooling. The L3.2 system
models are fitted with catalytic converters.
Maintenanceª
10At the intervals specified in Section 3 or
“Routine maintenance” at the beginning of
this Manual, carry out the following tasks.
11Check the engine oil level as follows. With
the vehicle parked on level ground, and with
the engine having been stopped for a few
minutes, withdraw the oil level dipstick, wipe it
on a clean rag, and re-insert it fully. Withdraw
the dipstick again and read off the oil level
relative to the MAX and MIN marks. The oil
level should be between the marks. If the level
is at or below the MIN mark, top up through
the filler on the camshaft cover without delay
(photo). The quantity of oil required to raise
the level from MIN to MAX on the dipstick is
approximately 1.0 litre (1.8 pints). Do not
overfill.
12Renew the engine oil and filter as
described in Section 2 of Chapter 1 (photos).
13Check and if necessary adjust the valve
clearances as described in Part B of this
Section.
14Inspect the engine for signs of oil, coolant
or fuel leaks and rectify as necessary.
15Inspect the crankcase ventilation hose for
blockage or damage. Clean or renew as
necessary.
16Check the condition and tension of thetiming belt as described in Part B of this
Section.
17Renew the timing belt as described in
Part B of this Section.
PART B:
OPERATIONS POSSlBLE
WITH ENGINE IN CAR
Valve clearances -
checking and adjustment#
1It is important to ensure that the valve
clearances are set correctly, as incorrect
clearances will result in incorrect valve timing
thus affecting engine performance.
2The clearances must be checked and
adjusted with the engine cold.
3On the ie engine, refer to Section 9 in this
Chapter for details and remove the air cleaner
unit.
4On the ie engine disconnect the crankcase
ventilation hose from the injector unit and
position the hose out of the way.
5On Turbo ie engines, loosen off the clips
and remove the air hose to the inlet manifold
(above the camshaft cover).
6On Turbo ie engines, disconnect the
accelerator cable from the throttle housing
and the support bracket on the camshaft
cover.
7Unscrew the securing nuts and washers
and remove the camshaft cover, noting that
on later models two of the nuts also secure
the hose clip assembly. Recover the gasket.
8Numbering from the front (timing belt) end
of the engine, the exhaust valves are 1, 4, 5
and 8, and the inlet valves are 2, 3, 6 and 7.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•37
7A.12B Engine oil filter removal using a
strap wrench - 1372 cc engine7A.12A Engine sump drain plug - 1372 cc
engine7A.11 Topping up the engine oil level -
1372 cc engine
Fig. 13.15 Engine oil level dipstick location
and level markings on the 1372 cc ie and
Turbo ie engines (Sec 7A)
13