0•10Routine maintenance
Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the
purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy
from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication has been
greatly reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended
to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required
the items either no longer exist or will last forever. This is certainly not
the case; it is essential to carry out regular visual examinations as
comprehensively as possible in order to spot any possible defects at
an early stage before they develop into major and expensive repairs.
For information applicable to later models, see Supplement.
Every 250 miles (400 km), weekly,
or before a long journey
m mCheck engine oil level
m mCheck brake reservoir fluid level
m mCheck tyre pressures
m mCheck operation of all lights and horn
m mTop up washer fluid reservoirs, adding a screen
wash, and check operation of washers and wipers
m mCheck coolant level
m mCheck battery electrolyte level
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km)
or six months, whichever comes first
m mRenew engine oil and filter (Chapter 1, Section 2)
m mCheck drivebelt tension (Chapter 2, Section 8)
m mCheck carburettor idle speed and mixture
adjustments (Chapter 3)
m mCheck contact points and dwell angle (mechanical
breaker distributors) (Chapter 4, Section 3)
m mCheck tyre tread wear (Chapter 7, Section 7)
m mCheck disc pads for wear (Chapter 8, Section 3)
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km)
or three years, whichever comes first
m mRenew the timing belt - 1116 and 1299/1301 cc
(Chapter 1, Section 28)
m mCheck exhaust system for corrosion (Chapter 3,
Section 19)
m mRenew contact breaker points and adjust dwell
angle (mechanical breaker distributors) (Chapter 4,
Section 3)
m mCheck and adjust ignition timing (Chapter 4,
Section 4)
m mRenew spark plugs (Chapter 4, Section 11)
m mCheck clutch adjustment (Chapter 5, Section 2)
m mCheck transmission oil level (Chapter 6, Section 2)
m mCheck driveshaft and steering rack gaiters for splits
(Chapters 7 and 10)
m mCheck rear brake shoe linings for wear (Chapter 8,
Section 4)
m mCheck handbrake travel (Chapter 8, Section 16)
m mCheck headlamp beam alignment (Chapter 9,
Section 17)
m mCheck balljoints for wear (Chapter 10, Section 2)
m mCheck front wheel alignment (Chapter 10, Section 8)
m mCheck suspension bushes for wear (Chapter 11,
Section 2)
m mCheck seat belts for fraying (Chapter 12, Section 23)
m mLubricate controls, hinges and locks
Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km)
or two years, whichever comes first
m mRenew coolant anti-freeze mixture (Chapter 2,
Section 3)
m mRenew transmission oil (Chapter 6, Section 2)
m mRenew brake hydraulic fluid (Chapter 8, Section 12)
m mCheck for underbody corrosion and clean out door
and sill drain holes (Chapter 12, Section 2)
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months, whichever comes first
m mCheck and adjust valve clearances (Chapter 1,
Sections 5 and 26)
m mRenew air cleaner element (Chapter 3, Section 2)
Cylinder head and valves
Material (cylinder head) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light alloy
Maximum distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Valve guide bore in head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.950 to 12.977 mm (0.5099 to 0.5109 in)
Valve guide outside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.010 to 13.030 mm (0.5122 to 0.5130 in)
Valve guide oversizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5, 0.10, 0.25 mm (0.002, 0.004, 0.010 in)
Inside diameter of valve guide (reamed) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.022 to 7.040 mm (0.2765 to 0.2772 in)
Guide fit in head (interference) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.033 to 0.080 mm (0.0013 to 0.0032 in)
Valve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.982 to 7.000 mm (0.2748 to 0.2756 in)
Maximum clearance (valve stem to guide) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.022 to 0.058 mm (0.0009 to 0.0023 in)
Valve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44º 55’ to 45º 05’
Valve face angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45º 25’ to 45º 35’
Valve head diameter:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.0 mm (1.1417 in)
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.0 mm (1.0236 in)
Contact band (valve to seat) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 to 1.5 mm (0.0512 to 0.0591 in)
Valve clearance:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm (0.008 in)
For timing check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.60 mm (0.024 in)
Valve timing:
Inlet valve:
Opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7º BTDC
Closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36º ABDC
Exhaust valve:
Opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38º BBDC
Closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5º ATDC
Lubrication system
Oil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear, driven by shaft from camshaft
Tooth tip to body clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.14 mm (0.0020 to 0.0055 in)
Gear endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.105 mm (0.0008 to 0.0041 in)
Oil pressure at normal operating temperature and average road/
engine speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.94 to 3.92 bar (42 to 57 lbf/ in
2)
Oil capacity (with filter change) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.42 litre (6.0 pint)
Oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/40
Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C101
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Cylinder head bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 43.5
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 51
Big-end bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30
Crankshaft pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 72
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 32
Rocker pedestal nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 29
Engine mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Engine mounting centre nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Temperature sender switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Driveshaft to hub nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 200
Hub carrier to strut clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 63
Brake caliper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 39
Tie-rod end balljoint nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 25
Driveshaft inboard boot retainer bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Engine – general 1•3
1
Auxiliary shaft
Bearing internal diameter (reamed):
No. 1 (timing belt end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.664 to 35.684 mm (1.4052 to 1.4059 in)
No. 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.000 to 32.020 mm (1.2608 to 1.2616 in)
Shaft journal diameter:
No. 1 (timing belt end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.593 to 35.618 mm (1.4024 to 1.4033 in)
No. 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.940 to 31.960 mm (1.2584 to 1.2592 in)
Cylinder block and crankcase
Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cast-iron
Bore diameter:
1116 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.000 to 80.050 mm (3.152 to 3.154 in)
1301 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.400 to 86.450 mm (3.404 to 3.406 in)
Maximum cylinder bore taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm (0.0006 in)
Maximum cylinder bore ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm (0.0006 in)
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Cylinder head bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Turn through 90º Turn through 90º
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Turn through 90º Turn through 90º
Camshaft carrier to cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59
Big-end cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 38
Flywheel mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61
Belt tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 32
Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 21
Auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61
Flexible mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 44
Flexible mounting centre nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 63
Driveshaft/hub nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 200
Tie-rod end balljoint nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 25
Brake caliper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 39
Front strut lower clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Driveshaft inboard boot retainer bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Crankshaft pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 7
1•6 Engine – general
Part 1: General
1 Description
1The Uno may be powered by one of three
engines depending upon the particular model.
903 cc
2This is of four cylinder overhead valve type
with a light alloy cylinder head and a cast-iron
block and crankcase.
3A three bearing crankshaft is used and the
chain-driven camshaft runs in three steel
backed white metal bearings.
4The light alloy pistons are fitted with two
compression and one oil control ring. The
gudgeon pin is an interference fit in the small
end of the connecting rod.
5Lubrication is provided by an oil pump
within the sump pan and both the pump and
the distributor are driven from a gear on the
camshaft. Pressurised oil passes through acartridge type oil filter. An oil pressure relief
valve is incorporated in the oil pump. The
engine oil is independent of the transmission
lubricant.
1116 cc and 1301 cc
6These engines are of single overhead
camshaft type, the camshaft being driven by a
toothed belt.
7The difference in engine capacity is
achieved by increasing the cylinder bore on
the 1301 cc engine.
8The cylinder head is of light alloy while the
cylinder block and crankcase are of cast-iron
construction.
9A five bearing crankshaft is used and the
camshaft runs in a similar number of bearings,
but as these are in-line bored directly in the
camshaft carrier, no repair is possible.
10The pistons are of light alloy with two
compression and one oil control ring. The
gudgeon pin is an interference fit in the small
end of the connecting rod.
11An auxiliary shaft, driven by the timing belt
is used to drive the distributor, oil pump and
fuel pump.12The oil pump is located within the sump
pan and incorporates a pressure relief valve.
13Pressurised oil passes through a cartridge
type oil filter.
14The crankshaft main bearings are
supplied under pressure from drillings in the
crankcase from the main oil gallery whilst the
connecting rod big-end bearings are
lubricated from the main bearings by oil
forced through the crankshaft oilways. The
camshaft bearings are fed from a drilling from
the main oil gallery. The cams and tappets are
lubricated by oil mist from outlets in the
camshaft bearings.
15The cylinder walls, pistons and gudgeon
pins are lubricated by oil splashed up by the
crankshaft webs. An oil pressure warning light
is fitted to indicate when the pressure is too
low.
All engines
16The engine is mounted transversely with
the transmission at the front of the car.
17The engine oil is independent of the
transmission lubricant.
Cylinder head - removal and refitting
Sump pan - removal and refitting
Pistons/connecting rods - removal and
refitting
Oil pump - removal and refitting
Engine mountings - renewal
1116 cc and 1301 cc engines
Valve clearances - checking and adjusting
Camshaft and camshaft carrier - removal
and refitting
Timing belt - removal and refitting
Cylinder head - removal and refitting
Sump pan - removal and refitting
Oil pump - removal and refitting
Pistons/connecting rods - removal and
refitting
Engine mountings - renewal
Part 2:
903 cc engine
5 Valve clearances-
adjustment
2
1Adjust the valves when the engine is cold.
2Unbolt and remove the rocker cover.
3It is important that the clearance is set
when the cam follower of the valve being
adjusted is on the heel of the cam (ie;
opposite the peak). This can be done by
carrying out the adjustments in the following
order, which also avoids turning the
crankshaft more than necessary.
4Turn the crankshaft either using a spanner
on the pulley nut or by raising a front
roadwheel, engaging a gear (3rd or 4th) and
turning the wheel in the forward direction of
travel. It will be easier to turn the engine if the
spark plugs are first removed.
Valve fully open Check and adjust
Valve No. 8 EX Valve No. 1 EX
Valve No. 6 IN Valve No. 3 IN
Valve No. 4 EX Valve No. 5 EX
Valve No. 7 IN Valve No. 2 IN
Valve No. 1 EX Valve No. 8 EX
Valve No. 3 IN Valve No. 6 IN
Valve No. 5 EX Valve No. 4 EX
Valve No. 2 IN Valve No. 7 IN5Count the valves from the timing cover end
of the engine.
6Remember, the inlet and exhaust valve
clearances are different.
7Insert the appropriate feeler gauge between
the end of the valve stem and the rocker arm.
It should be a stiff sliding fit (photo).
8If the clearance is incorrect, release the
rocker arm adjuster screw locknut using a ring
spanner. Turn the adjuster screw using a
small open-ended spanner, but tie something
to it in case it is inadvertently dropped
through one of the pushrod holes.
9Once the clearance is correct, tighten the
locknut without moving the position of the
adjuster screw.
10Repeat the operations on the remaining
seven valves.
11Re-check all the clearances. Make sure
that the rocker cover gasket is in good
condition and fit the rocker cover.
6 Timing chain and sprockets
- removal and refitting
3
1Remove the alternator drivebelt as
described in Chapter 2.
2Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulley
nut.3Disconnect the hoses from the fuel pump.
4Unbolt and remove the fuel pump with
spacer and rod.
5Support the engine on a hoist or under the
sump and disconnect and remove the
right-hand mounting. Then unscrew and
remove the timing cover bolts. The base of
the cover is secured by the front two sump
pan studs. Unbolt and lower the front end of
the sump. Avoid breaking the gasket. Remove
the timing cover.
6Undo and remove the camshaft sprocket
securing bolt; this will also release the fuel
pump drive cam from the end of the camshaft.
Note the timing marks on the camshaft and
crankshaft sprockets.
7Using two tyre levers, carefully ease the two
sprockets forwards away from the crankcase.
Lift away the two sprockets and timing chain.
8Remove the Woodruff key from the
crankshaft nose with a pair of pliers and note
how the channel in the pulley is designed to fit
over it. Place the Woodruff key in a container
as it is a very small part and can easily
become lost. The camshaft sprocket is
located on the camshaft by a dowel peg.Refitting
9Fit the Woodruff key to the front of the
crankshaft.
10Tap the crankshaft sprocket onto the front
of the crankshaft.
11Turn the sprocket so that the Woodruff
key is uppermost.
12Turn the camshaft until it is in such a
position that if the sprocket was fitted the
dimple timing mark on the sprocket would be
nearest to and in alignment with, the one on
the crankshaft sprocket.
903 cc engine 1•9
5.7 Adjusting a valve clearance
1 Sprocket retaining bolt
2 Fuel pump eccentric cam
3 Timing chain4 Camshaft sprocket
5 Sprocket locating dowel
6 Camshaft7 Woodruff key
8 Crankshaft
9 Crankshaft sprocket
Fig. 1.6 Timing chain and sprockets (Sec 6)
1
To prevent the crankshaft
rotating, either select a gear
and have an assistant apply
the footbrake hard or
remove the starter motor and lock the
ring gear teeth with a large cold chisel
or screwdriver.
used to check bore wear and taper against
the Specifications, but this is a pointless
operation if the engine is obviously in need of
reboring due to excessive oil consumption.
5Your engine reconditioner will be able to
re-bore the block for you and supply the
correct oversize pistons to give the correct
running clearance.
6If the engine has reached the limit for
reboring then cylinder liners can be fitted, but
here again this is a job for your engine
reconditioner.
7To rectify minor bore wear it is possible to
fit proprietary oil control rings. A good way to
test the condition of the engine is to have it at
normal operating temperature with the spark
plugs removed. Screw a compression gauge
(available from most motor accessory stores)
into the first plug hole. Hold the accelerator
fully depressed and crank the engine on the
starter motor for several revolutions. Record
the reading. Zero the tester and check the
remaining cylinders in the same way. All four
compression figures should be approximately
equal and within the tolerance given in the
Specifications. If they are all low, suspect
piston ring or cylinder bore wear. If only one
reading is down, suspect a valve not seating.
Crankshaft and bearings
8Examine the crankpin and main journal
surfaces for signs of scoring or scratches.
Check the ovality of the crankpins at different
positions with a micrometer. If more than
0.001 inch (0.025 mm) out of round, the
crankpins will have to be reground. They will
also have to be reground if there are any
scores or scratches present. Also check the
journals in the same fashion.
9Wear in a crankshaft can be detected while
the engine is running. Big-end bearing and
crankpin wear is indicated by distinct metallic
knocking, particularly noticeable when the
engine is pulling from low engine speeds. Low
oil pressure will also occur.
10Main bearing and journal wear is indicated
by engine rumble increasing in severity as the
engine speed increases. Low oil pressure will
again be an associated condition.
11Crankshaft grinding should be carried outby specialist engine reconditioners who will
supply the matching undersize bearing shells
to give the required running clearance.
12Inspect the connecting rod big-end and
main bearing shells for signs of general wear,
scoring, pitting and scratching. The bearings
should be matt grey in colour.
13If a copper colour is evident, then the
bearings are badly worn and the surface
material has worn away to expose the underlay.
Renew the bearings as a complete set.
14At the time of major overhaul it is
worthwhile renewing the bearing shells as a
matter of routine even if they appear to be in
reasonably good condition.
15Bearing shells can be identified by the
marking on the back of the shell. Standard
sized shells are usually marked STD or 0.00.
Undersized shells are marked with the
undersize such as 0.25 mm.
Connecting rods
16Check the alignment of the connecting
rods visually. If you suspect distortion, have
them checked by your dealer or engine
reconditioner on the special jig which he will
have.
17The gudgeon pin is an interference fit in
the connecting rod small-end and removal or
refitting and changing a piston is a job best
left to your dealer or engine reconditioner due
to the need for a press and jig and careful
heating of the connecting rod.
Pistons and piston rings
18If the cylinders have been rebored, then
the reconditioner will supply the oversize
pistons and rings and the gudgeon pins. Give
the job of fitting the new pistons to the
connecting rods to him.
19If the original piston rings or just new rings
are to be fitted to the original pistons, use
great care to remove and fit the rings as they
are easily broken if expanded too much.
Always remove and fit rings from the crown
end.
20If three old feeler blades are slid behind
the piston rings and located at equidistant
points, the rings may be removed or fitted
without their dropping into the wrong grooves
and will reduce the chance of breakage
(photo).
21If the original pistons are being refitted,
make sure that the ring grooves and their oil
return holes are cleaned out and freed from
carbon. A piece of piston ring is a useful tool
for this purpose.
22The three pistons rings are as follows:
Top - Thinner compression marked TOP
Second - Thicker compression, step at base
Bottom - Oil control (photo)
23If proprietary wear control rings are to be
fitted to overcome bore wear, fit them strictly
in accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions.
24Always check the piston ring groove
1•18 903 cc engine
18.24A Checking piston ring groove
clearance18.22 Piston ring marking
18.20 Using feeler blades to fit piston ringsFig. 1.26 Piston/connecting rod
relationship (Sec 18)Fig. 1.25 Checking a crankpin (Sec 18)
8Fit the new belt. Start at the crankshaft
drive pulley and, taking care not to kink or
strain the belt, slip it over the camshaft pulley.
The camshaft may have to be turned slightly
to mesh the pulley with the teeth on the belt.
Fit the belt on the tensioner pulley last; if this
is difficult, do not lever or force the belt on,
recheck the belt (photo).
9Release the tensioner nut and rotate the
crankshaft through two complete revolutions.
Retighten the nut. The belt tension may be
checked by twisting it through 90º with the
finger and thumb. It should just turn through
this angle without undue force. Note: The
above procedure serves only as a rough guide
to setting the belt tension - having it checked
by a FIAT dealer at the earliest opportunity is
recommended.
10Refit the timing belt cover (photo). Fit and
tension the alternator drivebelt (Chapter 2,
Section 8).
29 Cylinder head-
removal and refitting
3
1Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 2).
2Disconnect the battery.
3Disconnect and plug the carburettor fuel
hoses.
4Disconnect the throttle and choke linkage
from the carburettor. 5Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs.
6Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
from the intake manifold.
7Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing.
8Disconnect the crankcase ventilation
system hoses from the rocker cover and
carburettor.
9Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover.
10Release the timing belt tensioner pulley
bolt, then lever the pulley against the spring
plunger and retighten the bolt to retain the
tensioner pulley in the non-tensioned position.
Slip the belt from the camshaft sprocket.
11Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
carburettor and intake manifold.
12Disconnect the exhaust downpipes from
the manifold.
13If a crowfoot type wrench is available, the
cylinder head nuts and bolts can be removed
and the complete cylinder head camshaft
carrier assembly withdrawn (photo).
14If this type of wrench is not available
however, remove the carrier first as described
in Section 27.
15If a crowfoot is available, unscrew the
cylinder head nuts and bolts evenly and
progressively starting with the centre ones
and working towards both ends.
16Rock the cylinder head by gripping the
manifolds. Note: Do not insert a lever in
the gasket joint to prise the head from the
block.17Pull the head off the studs and remove it
to the bench. Remove and discard the old
cylinder head gasket.
18Unbolt and remove the hot air collecting
shield for the air cleaner from the exhaust
manifold. The exhaust and inlet manifolds can
now be unbolted. The carburettor may remain
on the inlet manifold.
19Overhaul and decarbonising of the
cylinder head is described in Section 39.
20Refitting is a reversal of the removal
process, but make sure the crankshaft and
camshaft timing marks are set as described in
Section 28 to avoid the valve heads digging
into the piston crowns when the head is
refitted.
21Always use new gaskets. The cylinder
1116 cc and 1301 cc engine 1•25
Fig. 1.29 Timing belt arrangement (Sec 28)
1 Camshaft sprocket
2 Tensioner pulley locknut
3 Timing mark on crankshaft front oil seal
retainer
4 Crankshaft sprocket
5 Crankshaft sprocket timing mark
6 Auxiliary shaft sprocket
7 Tensioner bracket bolt
8 Tensioner pulley
9 Timing belt
10 Tensioner bracket
11 Tensioner spring
28.8 Slipping timing belt onto tensioner
pulleyFig. 1.28 TDC marks (1) at front of engine
(Sec 28)
Fig. 1.30 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence (Sec 29)28.10 Tightening timing belt cover nut29.13 Using a crowfoot type wrench on a
cylinder head bolt
1
Fault finding - all engines
Note: When investigating starting and uneven running faults, do not be tempted into snap diagnosis. Start from the beginning of the check
procedure and follow it through. It will take less time in the long run. Poor performance from an engine in terms of power and economy is not
normally diagnosed quickly. In any event, the ignition and fuel systems must be checked first before assuming any further investigation needs to
be made.
All engines 1•35
1
Engine fails to turn when starter operated
m mBattery discharged
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded
m mBattery earth to body defective
m mEngine/transmission earth strap broken or loose
m mDisconnected or broken wire in starter circuit
m mIgnition/starter switch defective
m mStarter motor or solenoid defective (see Chapter 9)
m mMajor mechanical failure (seizure) or long disuse (piston rings rusted
to bores)
Engine turns and fails to start
m mBattery discharged
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded
m mBattery or engine earth strap loose
m mStarter motor connections loose
m mOil in engine/transmission too thick
m mStarter motor defective
m mVapour lock in fuel line (in hot conditions or at high altitude)
m mBlocked float chamber needle valve
m mFuel pump filter blocked
m mChoked or blocked carburettor jets
m mFaulty fuel pump
m mFuel tank empty
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mShorted or disconnected low tension leads
m mDirty, incorrectly set, or pitted contact breaker points
m mContact breaker point spring earthed or broken
m mFaulty condenser
m mDefective ignition switch
m mFaulty coil
m mDamp or dirty HT leads, distributor cap or plug bodies
m mBroken, loose or disconnected LT leads
m mIgnition leads connected wrong way round
m mOther ignition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mValve timing incorrect (after rebuild)
Engine fires but will not run
m
mInsufficient choke (cold engine)
m mFuel starvation or tank empty
m mIgnition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
Engine stalls and will not restart
m
mToo much choke allowing too rich a mixture to wet plugs
m mFloat damaged or leaking or needle not seating
m mFloat lever incorrectly adjusted
m mIgnition failure - sudden
m mIgnition failure - misfiring precedes total stoppage
m mIgnition failure - in severe rain or after traversing water splash
m mNo petrol in petrol tank
m mPetrol tank breather choked
m mSudden obstruction in carburettor
m mWater in fuel system
Engine slow to warm up
m
mChoke linkage maladjusted
m mAir cleaner temperature control unit defective
m mThermostat stuck open (see Chapter 2)
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
Difficult starting when cold
m
mInsufficient choke
m mFouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
m mDamp or dirty HT leads, distributor cap or spark plug bodies
m mDirty or maladjusted contact breaker points
m mOther ignition fault or timing maladjustment (see Chapter 4)
m mFuel system or emission control fault (see Chapter 3)
m mPoor compression (may be due to incorrect valve clearances, burnt
or sticking valves, blown head gasket, worn or damaged pistons,
rings or bores)
m mIncorrect valve timing (after rebuild)
Difficult starting when hot
m
mIncorrect use of manual choke
m mFuel line vapour lock (especially in hot weather or at high altitudes)
m mIncorrect ignition timing
m mOther fuel system or emission control fault (see Chapter 3)
m mPoor compression (see above)
Engine lacks power
m
mIgnition timing incorrect
m mContact breaker points incorrectly gapped
m mIncorrectly set spark plugs
m mDirty contact breaker points
m mDistributor automatic advance and retard mechanisms not
functioning correctly
m mOther ignition system fault (see Chapter 4)
m mAir cleaner choked
m mCarburation too rich or too weak
m mFuel filter blocked
m mAir filter blocked
m mFaulty fuel pump giving top and fuel starvation
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mPoor compression
m mValve clearances incorrect
m mCarbon build-up in cylinder head
m mSticking or leaking valves
m mWeak or broken valve springs
m mWorn valve guides or stems
m mWorn pistons and piston rings
m mBurnt out valves
m mBlown cylinder head gasket (accompanied by increase in noise)
m mWorn pistons and piston rings
m mWorn or scored cylinder bore
m mBrakes binding
Engine misfires throughout speed range
m
mDefective or fouled spark plug
m mLoose, cracked or defective HT lead
m mMaladjusted, sticking or burnt valves
m mIgnition timing incorrect
m mBlown head gasket
m mFuel contaminated
m mOther ignition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
Poor engine braking
m
mHigh idle speed
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mLow compression
Engine idles roughly
m mMixture too weak
m mAir leak in carburettor
m mAir leak at inlet manifold to cylinder head, or inlet manifold to
carburettor
m mCarburettor incorrectly adjusted
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mLow tension leads on coil loose
m mLow tension lead to distributor loose
m mDirty, incorrectly set, or pitted contact breaker points
m mTracking across inside of distributor cover
m mFaulty coil
m mIgnition leads loose
m mSpark plugs fouled or incorrectly gapped.
m mIgnition timing incorrect
m mOther ignition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mIncorrect valve clearances
m mWidely differing cylinder compressions
m mLow battery voltage (charging fault)
m mBattery leads loose on terminals
m mBattery earth strap loose on body attachment point
m mEngine earth lead loose
Pre-ignition (pinking) during acceleration
m
mIncorrect grade of fuel being used
m mIgnition timing over-advanced
m mOther ignition fault (see Chapter 4)
m mEngine overheated
m mExcessive carbon build-up
m mFuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mValve timing incorrect (after rebuild)
m mMixture too weak
Engine runs on after switching off
m
mIdle speed too high
m mIncorrect type of spark plug
m mOverheating
m mExcessive carbon build-up
m mOther emission control fault (see Chapter 3)
Oil being lost due to leaks
m
mLeaking oil filter gasket
m mLeaking rocker cover gasket
m mLeaking timing gear cover gasket
m mLeaking sump gasket
m mLoose sump plug
Low oil pressure (verify accuracy of sender before
dismantling engine!)
m mOil level low
m mEngine overheating
m mIncorrect grade of oil in use
m mOil filter clogged or bypass valve stuck
m mPressure relief valve stuck or defective
m mOil pick-up strainer clogged or loose
m mMain or big-end bearings worn
m mOil pump worn or mountings loose
Excessive oil consumption
m
mOverfilling
m mLeaking gaskets or drain plug washer
m mValve stem oil seals worn, damaged or missing after rebuild
m mValve stems and/or guides worn
m mPiston rings and/or bores worn
m mPiston oil return holes clogged
Oil contaminated with water
m
mExcessive cold running
m mLeaking head gasket
m mCracked block or head
Oil contaminated with fuel
m
mExcessive use of choke
m mWorn piston rings and/or bores
Unusual mechanical noises
m
mUnintentional mechanical contact (eg fan blade)
m mWorn drivebelt
m mWorn valvegear (tapping noises from top of engine) or incorrect
clearance
m mPeripheral component fault (generator, coolant pump)
m mWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under
load)
m mWorn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load)
m mSmall-end bushes or gudgeon pins worn (light metallic tapping)
m mPiston slap (most noticeable when engine cold)
m mWorn timing chain and gears (rattling from front of engine)
m mWorn crankshaft (knocking, rumbling and vibration)
1•36 All engines