1983 FIAT UNO warning

Safety First!0•5
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400
0C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

Roadside Repairs0•9
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.
Identifying leaks
The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively
coloured. It may help to clean the car and
to park it over some clean paper as an
aid to locating the source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil Gearbox oil
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid
Oil from filter
Antifreeze
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug......or from the base of the oil filter.
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

Auxiliary shaft
Bearing internal diameter (reamed):
No. 1 (timing belt end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.664 to 35.684 mm (1.4052 to 1.4059 in)
No. 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.000 to 32.020 mm (1.2608 to 1.2616 in)
Shaft journal diameter:
No. 1 (timing belt end) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.593 to 35.618 mm (1.4024 to 1.4033 in)
No. 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.940 to 31.960 mm (1.2584 to 1.2592 in)
Cylinder block and crankcase
Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cast-iron
Bore diameter:
1116 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.000 to 80.050 mm (3.152 to 3.154 in)
1301 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.400 to 86.450 mm (3.404 to 3.406 in)
Maximum cylinder bore taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm (0.0006 in)
Maximum cylinder bore ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 mm (0.0006 in)
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Cylinder head bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Turn through 90º Turn through 90º
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Turn through 90º Turn through 90º
Camshaft carrier to cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59
Big-end cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 38
Flywheel mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61
Belt tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 32
Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 21
Auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 61
Flexible mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 44
Flexible mounting centre nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 63
Driveshaft/hub nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 200
Tie-rod end balljoint nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 25
Brake caliper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 39
Front strut lower clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 36
Driveshaft inboard boot retainer bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Crankshaft pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 7
1•6 Engine – general
Part 1: General
1 Description
1The Uno may be powered by one of three
engines depending upon the particular model.
903 cc
2This is of four cylinder overhead valve type
with a light alloy cylinder head and a cast-iron
block and crankcase.
3A three bearing crankshaft is used and the
chain-driven camshaft runs in three steel
backed white metal bearings.
4The light alloy pistons are fitted with two
compression and one oil control ring. The
gudgeon pin is an interference fit in the small
end of the connecting rod.
5Lubrication is provided by an oil pump
within the sump pan and both the pump and
the distributor are driven from a gear on the
camshaft. Pressurised oil passes through acartridge type oil filter. An oil pressure relief
valve is incorporated in the oil pump. The
engine oil is independent of the transmission
lubricant.
1116 cc and 1301 cc
6These engines are of single overhead
camshaft type, the camshaft being driven by a
toothed belt.
7The difference in engine capacity is
achieved by increasing the cylinder bore on
the 1301 cc engine.
8The cylinder head is of light alloy while the
cylinder block and crankcase are of cast-iron
construction.
9A five bearing crankshaft is used and the
camshaft runs in a similar number of bearings,
but as these are in-line bored directly in the
camshaft carrier, no repair is possible.
10The pistons are of light alloy with two
compression and one oil control ring. The
gudgeon pin is an interference fit in the small
end of the connecting rod.
11An auxiliary shaft, driven by the timing belt
is used to drive the distributor, oil pump and
fuel pump.12The oil pump is located within the sump
pan and incorporates a pressure relief valve.
13Pressurised oil passes through a cartridge
type oil filter.
14The crankshaft main bearings are
supplied under pressure from drillings in the
crankcase from the main oil gallery whilst the
connecting rod big-end bearings are
lubricated from the main bearings by oil
forced through the crankshaft oilways. The
camshaft bearings are fed from a drilling from
the main oil gallery. The cams and tappets are
lubricated by oil mist from outlets in the
camshaft bearings.
15The cylinder walls, pistons and gudgeon
pins are lubricated by oil splashed up by the
crankshaft webs. An oil pressure warning light
is fitted to indicate when the pressure is too
low.
All engines
16The engine is mounted transversely with
the transmission at the front of the car.
17The engine oil is independent of the
transmission lubricant.

2 Engine oil and filter
1
1The engine oil level should be checked at
the weekly service (see “Routine
Maintenance”). Preferably check the level
cold, first thing in the morning or if the engine
has been running, allow at least ten minutes
to elapse after switching off to permit the oil to
drain.
2Withdraw the dipstick, wipe it clean on
non-fluffy material, re-insert it and then
withdraw it for the second time (photo).
3The oil level should be between the MIN
and MAX marks. If not, top up with specified
oil to the MAX mark. Pour the oil slowlythrough the filler orifice on the rocker cover.
To raise the oil level from MIN to MAX will
require approximately 1.1 litre (2.0 pints)
(photos).
4At the intervals specified in “Routine
Maintenance” the oil and filter should be
renewed.
5Have the engine at normal operating
temperature, remove the oil filler cap.
6Place a suitable container under the sump
pan. Unscrew and remove the oil drain plug
and allow the oil to drain (photo).
7While the oil is draining, unscrew and
discard the oil filter. To unscrew the filter, a
filter or chain wrench will normally be
required. If such a tool is not available, drive a
long screwdriver through the oil tester casing
and use it as a lever to unscrew the filter
cartridge.
8Smear the rubber sealing ring of the new oil
filter with oil and screw into position using
hand pressure only (photo).
9Refit the drain plug and refill the engine with
the correct quantity and grade of oil.
10Start the engine. It will take two or three
seconds for the oil warning lamp to go out.
This is normal and is due to the time taken for
the new filter to fill with oil.
11Switch off, check for leaks and check the
oil level, topping up if necessary.
3 Crankcase ventilation
system
1
1This system is designed to draw oil fumes
and blow-by gas (which has passed the piston
rings) from the crankcase and draw it into the
intake manifold when it will then be burned
during the normal combustion process.
2Regularly check the security of the system
hoses which run from the rocker cover or
crankcase breather unit (photo).
3Periodically, detach the hoses and clean
them out with paraffin and a brush or rag pull
through.
4Evidence of sludge or emulsified oil within
the hoses or inside the oil filler cap will
indicate that the engine is running too cool
particularly if the car is used mainly for short
journeys where the engine never reaches full
working temperature.
4 Major operations possible
without removing engine
from car
1The following work can be carried out without
the need to remove the engine from the car.
903 cc engine
Valve clearances - checking and adjusting
Timing chain and sprockets - removal and
refitting
1•8 Engine – general
3.2 Crankcase vent hose (1116 cc)Fig. 1.5 Sectional view of oil filter. Bypass
valve arrowed (Sec 2)2.8 Screwing on the oil filter (903 cc)
2.6 Engine sump drain plug
2.3B Topping up engine oil (1116 cc)2.3A Typical dipstick markings2.2 Withdrawing engine oil dipstick
(1116 cc)

to the engine. Also reconnect the brake servo
hose to the intake manifold (photos).
22Reconnect the leads to the reversing lamp
switch. Reconnect the transmission earth lead
(photos).
23Reconnect the clutch cable and adjust as
described in Chapter 5.
24Reconnect the speedometer drive cable
to the transmission and tighten the knurled
retaining ring.
25Reconnect the low tension lead to the
distributor and the high tension lead to the
ignition coil.
26Reconnnect the electrical leads to thestarter motor, the oil pressure and
temperature switches and the coolant
temperature switch.
27Connect the leads to the alternator.
28Refit the air cleaner.
29Refill the cooling system. Refill the engine
with oil.
30Reconnect the battery.
31Refit the bonnet and connect the
windscreen washer tube.
32Fit the inner wing protective shields
(photo).
45 Engine- initial start-up after
major overhaul
4
1If new bearings and rings have been fitted,
it is likely that the engine will be stiff to turn so
make sure the battery is well charged.
2Switch on the ignition and check that
appropriate warning lights come on.
3Start up the engine. If it refuses to start,
refer to the “Fault Finding” Section in the
Reference section of this Manual.
4Watch the oil pressure warning light and
alternator charging indicator light. If there is
no charge or if the oil pressure warning light
does not go out after a second or two, havinghad time to fill the new oil filter, switch off and
recheck.
5If the warning lights go out, set the engine
to run on fast idle and check the engine for
leaks.
6Check the coolant level; it will probably go
down as air locks are filled.
7Keep the engine running at a fast idle and
bring it up to normal working temperature. As
the engine warms up, there will be some odd
smells and smoke from parts getting hot and
burning off oil deposits.
8When the engine running temperature has
been reached, adjust the idling speed, as
described in Chapter 3. Check and, if
necessary, adjust the ignition timing using a
stroboscope (see Chapter 4).
9Stop the engine and wait a few minutes;
check to see if there are any coolant or oil
leaks.
10Road test the car to check that the engine
is running with the correct smoothness and
power. If it does not, refer to “Fault finding” in
the Reference section of this Manual. Do not
race the engine. If new bearings and/or
pistons and rings have been fitted, it should
be treated as a new engine and run it at
reduced speed for at east 800 km (500 miles).
11After 800 km (500 miles) change the
engine oil and filter.
1•34 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine
44.32 Inner wing protective shield44.26B Coolant temperature switch44.26A Oil pressure warning switch
44.22B Transmission earth lead
44.22A Reversing lamp switch on
transmission44.21B Brake servo hose at manifold44.21A Heater hose at manifold

fluid. They are “sealed”. Liquid will get in, but
a thorough clean will be impracticable, and it
will be impossible to get new grease in.
17Check all the parts, get a new gland, two
new grommets, (1116 cc and 1301 cc) and a
new gasket. Scrape all deposits out of the
housing and off the impeller.
18To reassemble, start by inserting the new
grommets (1116 cc and 1301 cc) in the
grooves by each bearing. Fit the circlip to the
shaft, then the shouldered ring, bearings and
spacer. Fit the shaft and bearing assembly
into the cover. Fit the stop screw. Press on
the pulley.
19Fit the new gland (seal), seating it in its
location in the cover. Press the impeller onto
the shaft. The impeller must be put on part
way, and then the housing held in place to see
how far the impeller must go down the shaft
to give the correct clearance, which is 0.8 to
1.3 mm (0.03 to 0.05 in) as shown in Figs. 2.4
and 2.5.
20The impeller clearance can be checked
through the coolant passage in the side of the
pump.
21Refitting is a reversal of the removal
process, but use a new flange gasket and
tension the drivebelt as described in Section 8
(photo).
22Refill the cooling system.
10 Cooling system sensors
1A coolant temperature sender switch is
located in the cylinder head (above No. 1
spark plug) on 903 cc engines and adjacent to
No. 2 spark plug on 1116 cc and 1301 cc
engines.
2The switch operates the coolant
temperature gauge and an excessive
temperature warning lamp.
3On some models, a level sensor is screwed
into the side of the expansion tank. This
sensor consists of a pair of reed switches
within a capsule which are kept closed by the
strong magnetic flux generated by the
hydrostatic force inspired by the action of the
coolant against the float.
4If the coolant level drops then the magneticflux is weakened and the switches open.
5In the event of a fault developing, before
assuming that the cause is the sensor, check
all connecting wiring.
11 Heating and ventilation
system- description
1The heater is centrally mounted under the
facia and is of fresh air type.2Air is drawn in through the grille at the base
of the windscreen. It then passes through the
coolant heated matrix when it can then be
distributed through selective outlets
according to the setting of the control levers.
3A booster fan is provided for use when the
car is stationary or is travelling too slowly to
provide sufficient air ram effect.
4Fresh air outlets are provided at each end
and centrally on the facia panel.
12 Heater unit-
removal and refitting
1
1Drain the cooling system.
2Disconnect the heater hoses at the engine
compartment rear bulkhead.
3Working within the car under the facia
panel, disconnect the leads from the
heater blower by pulling the connecting plug
apart.
4If a radio is fitted, disconnect the
aerial, earth, speaker and power leads from
it.
Cooling and heating systems 2•5
Fig. 2.6 Checking impeller clearance
(Sec 9)9.21 Fitting coolant pump (1116 cc engine)
Fig. 2.7 Heater and ventilation system (Sec 11)
A Fresh air inlet flap
B Air distribution flap
C Coolant valveD Blower
E MatrixF Control levers
G Footwell air duct
2

12The air cleaner on the 1301 cc engine is
mounted on the four flange studs of the
carburettors, their nuts being accessible after
the air cleaner lid has been removed and the
filter element extracted.
13Refitting of all types of air cleaner is a
reversal of removal.
3 Fuel pump-
removal and refitting
2
1On 903 cc engines, the fuel pump is
mounted on the side of the timing chain cover
and is driven by a pushrod from an eccentric
on the front of the camshaft.
2On the 1116 cc and 1301 cc engines, the
fuel pump is mounted on the side of the
crankcase and is driven by a pushrod from an
eccentric on the auxiliary shaft.
3The removal of both types of pump is
carried out in a similar way.
4Disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the
pump and plug the hose (photo).
5Disconnect the fuel outlet hose from the
pump.
6Unscrew the pump fixing bolt and remove it
together with spacer, pushrod and gaskets
(photos).
7Refitting is a reversal of removal. Make sure
that a new gasket is located on each side of
the spacer.
8The gasket on the inboard side of thespacer should always be 0.3 mm thick, but
gaskets for the outboard side are available in
thicknesses 0.3, 0.7 and 1.2 mm, as a means
of adjusting the fuel pump pressure. The
standard fuel pressure is 0.176 bar
(2.55 lbf/in
2). If the pressure is too high a
thicker gasket should be used, if too low, fit a
thinner one.
4 Fuel level transmitter-
removal and refitting
1
1The transmitter is accessible after having
removed the small cover panel from the floor
of the car under the rear seat (tipped forward)
with the floor covering peeled back (photo).
2Disconnect the fuel flow and return hoses
and the electrical leads from the transmitter.
3Unscrew the securing ring and lift the
transmitter from the tank.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a new
rubber sealing ring.
5 Fuel tank-
removal and refitting
1
1It is preferable to remove the fuel tank when
it has only a very small quantity of fuel in it. Ifthis cannot be arranged, syphon out as much
fuel as possible into a suitable container
which can be sealed.
2The tank is mounted just forward of the rear
axle.
3Disconnect the filler hose and the breather
hose from the tank (photo).
4Unscrew the mounting bolts from the
support straps and lower the tank using a jack
with a block of wood as an insulator. Release
the handbrake cable from its support bracket
on the side of the tank (photo).
5Once the tank has been lowered sufficiently
far, disconnect the fuel supply and return
hoses, breather hose and sender unit leads
and remove the tank from the car.
Warning: Never attempt to
solder or weld a fuel tank
yourself; always leave fuel tank
repairs to the experts. Never
syphon fuel into a container in an
inspection pit. Fuel vapour is heavier than
air and can remain in the pit for a
considerable time.
6If the tank contains sediment or water,
clean it out by using several changes of
paraffin and shaking vigorously. In order to
avoid damage to the sender unit, remove this
before commencing operations.
7Finally allow to drain and rinse out with
clean fuel.
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
9On 1984 and later models, the fuel tank is
of plastic construction.
Fuel system 3•5
3.6B Fuel pump spacer and pushrod3.6A Fuel pump on mounting studs3.4 Fuel pump
5.4 Fuel tank mounting straps5.3 Fuel tank filler and vent hoses4.1 Fuel tank transmitter
3

19.7A Exhaust pipe support rings
17 Accelerator cable-
adjustment and renewal
2
1The socket type cable end fitting is
detached from the carburettor throttle lever
simply by prising it off the ball stud.
2Adjustment can be carried out by releasing
the locknut and turning the end fitting. With
the accelerator pedal fully depressed, check
that full throttle can be obtained at the
carburettor.
3To renew the cable, prise off the end fitting
from the carburettor throttle lever.
4Slip the cable sleeve from its retaining
bracket (photo).
5Working inside the car under the facia
panel, slip the cable from the fork at the top of
the accelerator pedal arm (photo). 6Withdraw the cable through the engine
compartment bulkhead.
7Fit the new cable by reversing the removal
operations, adjust as described in para-
graph 2.
18 Choke control cable-
removal and refitting
2
1Remove the air cleaner.
2Release the choke outer cable clamp and
the inner cable from the swivel on the choke
control lever (photo).
3The choke control is of lever type. To
remove it, extract its hinge screw, accessible
when the lever is pulled upwards (photo).
4Withdraw the choke cable assembly until
the inner cable can be released from the handcontrol lever and the choke warning lamp lead
unplugged.
5Withdraw the cable assembly through the
engine compartment rear bulkhead.
6Fit the new cable by reversing the removal
operations. Before tightening the inner cable
pinch screw at the carburettor, hold the choke
valve plate open and pull the control lever out
2.0 or 3.0 mm, then tighten the screw. This
will provide just enough free movement to
ensure that when the control is pushed fully in
the choke valve plate will remain fully open
even with engine movement slightly stretching
the cable.
19 Manifolds and exhaust
system
1
1The intake manifold on 903 cc engines is
integral with the cylinder head.
2On the other engines, the intake and
exhaust manifolds are mounted on the same
side of the cylinder head.
3A hot air collector plate is fitted over the
exhaust manifold from where the air cleaner
draws air when in the winter setting.
4When fitting a manifold, thoroughly clean
the cylinder head and manifold mating
surfaces, use a new gasket and tighten nuts
to the specified torque (photos).
5The exhaust system on 903 cc models is of
single downpipe, single silencer two section
type.
3•12 Fuel system
19.4C Fitting intake manifold complete
with carburettor19.4B Fitting exhaust manifold
19.4A Manifold gasket18.3 Extracting choke control lever screw
18.2 Choke cable at carburettor17.5 Accelerator pedal17.4 Throttle cable sleeve and bracket