1983 FIAT UNO steering wheel adjustment

0•10Routine maintenance
Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the
purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy
from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication has been
greatly reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended
to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required
the items either no longer exist or will last forever. This is certainly not
the case; it is essential to carry out regular visual examinations as
comprehensively as possible in order to spot any possible defects at
an early stage before they develop into major and expensive repairs.
For information applicable to later models, see Supplement.
Every 250 miles (400 km), weekly,
or before a long journey
m mCheck engine oil level
m mCheck brake reservoir fluid level
m mCheck tyre pressures
m mCheck operation of all lights and horn
m mTop up washer fluid reservoirs, adding a screen
wash, and check operation of washers and wipers
m mCheck coolant level
m mCheck battery electrolyte level
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km)
or six months, whichever comes first
m mRenew engine oil and filter (Chapter 1, Section 2)
m mCheck drivebelt tension (Chapter 2, Section 8)
m mCheck carburettor idle speed and mixture
adjustments (Chapter 3)
m mCheck contact points and dwell angle (mechanical
breaker distributors) (Chapter 4, Section 3)
m mCheck tyre tread wear (Chapter 7, Section 7)
m mCheck disc pads for wear (Chapter 8, Section 3)
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km)
or three years, whichever comes first
m mRenew the timing belt - 1116 and 1299/1301 cc
(Chapter 1, Section 28)
m mCheck exhaust system for corrosion (Chapter 3,
Section 19)
m mRenew contact breaker points and adjust dwell
angle (mechanical breaker distributors) (Chapter 4,
Section 3)
m mCheck and adjust ignition timing (Chapter 4,
Section 4)
m mRenew spark plugs (Chapter 4, Section 11)
m mCheck clutch adjustment (Chapter 5, Section 2)
m mCheck transmission oil level (Chapter 6, Section 2)
m mCheck driveshaft and steering rack gaiters for splits
(Chapters 7 and 10)
m mCheck rear brake shoe linings for wear (Chapter 8,
Section 4)
m mCheck handbrake travel (Chapter 8, Section 16)
m mCheck headlamp beam alignment (Chapter 9,
Section 17)
m mCheck balljoints for wear (Chapter 10, Section 2)
m mCheck front wheel alignment (Chapter 10, Section 8)
m mCheck suspension bushes for wear (Chapter 11,
Section 2)
m mCheck seat belts for fraying (Chapter 12, Section 23)
m mLubricate controls, hinges and locks
Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km)
or two years, whichever comes first
m mRenew coolant anti-freeze mixture (Chapter 2,
Section 3)
m mRenew transmission oil (Chapter 6, Section 2)
m mRenew brake hydraulic fluid (Chapter 8, Section 12)
m mCheck for underbody corrosion and clean out door
and sill drain holes (Chapter 12, Section 2)
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months, whichever comes first
m mCheck and adjust valve clearances (Chapter 1,
Sections 5 and 26)
m mRenew air cleaner element (Chapter 3, Section 2)

locknut and turn the adjuster nut on the
handbrake primary rod (photo).
3Raise the rear roadwheels and check that
they turn freely when the handbrake lever is
fully released.
17 Handbrake cable-
renewal
1
1There are two cables, either of which may
be renewed independently
2Disconnect the cable, which is to be renewed,
from the shoe lever at the brake backplate.
3Disconnect the longer cable from the
primary link or rod and release the cable from
its retainers. On later models with a plastic
fuel tank, a cable bracket is moulded into the
side of the tank (photo).4Disconnect the shorter cable from the pivot
lever at the pulley on the rear axle (photo).
5Refit the new cables by reversing the
removal operations and then adjust as
described in the preceding Section.
18 Brake pedal-
removal and refitting
1
1The operations are described in
conjunction with the clutch pedal in Chapter
5, Section 4.
2The brake pedal pushrod will slide out of
the servo unit as the pedal is withdrawn.
19 Stop lamp switch
1
1The brake stop lamp switch is of plunger
type acting on the pedal arm.
2Adjust the position of the switch by turning
the locknuts until the stop lamps illuminate
when the pedal arm is depressed through 1.0
mm (0.039 in).
Braking system 8•9
Fig. 8.13 Handbrake components (Sec 17)
17.4 Handbrake cable pulley17.3 Handbrake cable guide on fuel tank
8
Fault finding - braking system
Excessive pedal travel
m mPads or shoes excessively worn
m mIncorrect pedal or servo pushrod adjustment
m mAutomatic adjusters faulty
m mSeized wheel cylinder or caliper piston
m mMaster cylinder seals worn
Pedal feels spongy or soggy
m
mAir in hydraulic system
m mLow fluid level
m mLoose connections
m mFlexible hose perished
m mDefective wheel cylinder or caliper seal
Pedal feels springy
m
mNew pads or linings not bedded-in
m mMaster cylinder mounting loose
Pedal vibrates when brakes applied
m
mDiscs or drums distorted
m mFriction linings excessively worn
m mLoose backplate or caliper mounting bolts
m mWear in steering or suspension components
Excessive effort required to stop car
m
mWorn or contaminated linings or pads
m mIncorrect grade of lining or pad material
m mServo vacuum hose leaking or disconnected
m mFaulty servo or non-return valve (55 or 70 models)
m mSeized caliper or wheel cylinder piston
m mOne circuit defective on dual circuit hydraulic system
Brakes pull to one side
m
mFriction linings contaminated on one side of car
m mSeized hydraulic piston on one side of car
m mDifferent types of linings fitted on different sides of car, or new
linings on one side only
m mSeized automatic adjuster on one side of car
Brakes drag
m
mHandbrake linkage overadjusted or seized
m mSeized caliper or wheel cylinder piston
Brakes squeal
m
mDrums or discs rusty or damp (temporary fault - no action
necessary)
m mDust or grit in brake drums
m mLinings excessively worn

13Stake the lower end of the tube to retain
the bush.
14Reassembly is a reversal of removal,
noting that the universal joint coupling
pinch-bolts should pass smoothly through the
grooves in the steering shaft.
15Fit the steering wheel when the
roadwheels are in the straight-ahead position.
16Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque. Reconnect the battery.
6 Steering rack-
removal and refitting
4
1Set the steering in the straight-ahead
mode.
2Working inside the car, disconnect thesteering shaft lower coupling by unscrewing
and removing the pinch-bolt (photo).
3Disconnect the tie-rod end balljoints from
the steering arms as described earlier in this
Chapter.
4Unscrew and remove the rack clamp
mounting bolts and withdraw the steering
gear from the car crossmember (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion check the front wheel alignment
as described in Section 8.
7 Steering gear- overhaul
4
1A worn steering gear should not be
overhauled, but a new or factory
reconditioned unit fitted.
2After a high mileage, the following
adjustment may be needed however.
Rack damper - adjustment
3The slipper in the rack housing presses the
rack into mesh with the pinion. This cuts out
any backlash between the gears. Also, due to
its pressure, it introduces some stiffness into
the rack, which cuts out excessive reaction
from the road to the steering wheel.
4In due course, wear reduces the pressures
exerted by the slipper. The pressure is
controlled by the cover plate and a spring.
5The need for resetting of the slipper is not
easy to detect. On bumpy roads, the shockinduced through the steering will give a feeling
of play, and sometimes faint clonking can be
heard. In extreme cases, free play in the
steering may be felt, though this is rare. If the
steering is compared with that of a new rack
on another car, the lack of friction damping is
quite apparent in the ease of movement of the
steering wheel of the worn one.
6Centralise the steering rack. Do this by
counting the number of turns lock-to-lock and
then turning the steering wheel from one lock
through half the number of turns counted.
7Take the cover plate off the damping
slipper, remove the spring and shims, and refit
the cover plate.
8Screw in the cover plate bolts just enough
to hold the slipper against the rack.
9Measure the gap between the cover plate
and the rack housing using feeler blades.
10Select shims from the thicknesses
available (0.10, 0.125 and 0.30 mm) to provide
a shim pack thicker than the gap by between
0.05 and 0.13 mm.
11Remove the cover plate, fit the spring and
bolt on the cover plate with the selected shims.
8 Steering angles and front
wheel alignment
4
1Accurate front wheel alignment is essential
to provide good steering and roadholding char-
acteristics and to ensure slow and even tyre
Steering 10•3
Fig. 10.4 Renewing steering shaft bushes
(Sec 5)Fig. 10.3 Unscrewing combination switch
clamp nuts (Sec 5)Fig. 10.2 Removing steering column
shroud screws (Sec 5)
Fig. 10.6 Camber angle (Sec 8)
A Vertical line B Camber angle (positive)Fig. 10.5 Sectional view of rack damper
(Sec 7)6.4 Steering rack housing at pinion end
10
6.2 Steering shaft coupling

Note: Before diagnosing steering faults, be
sure that trouble is not due to incorrect or
uneven tyre pressures, inappropriate tyre
combinations, or braking system or
suspension defects.
Car pulls to one side
m mIncorrect steering geometry
m mCollision damage
Vibration at steering wheel
m
mRoadwheels out of balance or loose
m mTyre damage
m mLoose driveshaft-to-hub nuts
Car wanders
m
mPlay in steering gear
m mWear in steering balljoints
Heavy or stiff steering
m
mLack of lubricant in steering gear or balljoints
m mIncorrect steering geometry
m mCollision damage
Play at steering wheel
m
mWear in steering rack or balljoints
m mLoose steering shaft coupling pinch-bolt or
worn splines
m mWorn steering column/shaft universal joints
Rattles from steering
m
mSteering damper defective or in need of
adjustment
m mLoose steering column mounting bolts
m mLoose steering column/shaft coupling
pinch-bolts
m mLoose steering rack housing mounting bolts
m mWorn steering shaft bushes
Excessive or uneven tyre wear
m
mIncorrect steering geometry
m mWorn steering components
m mCollision damage wear. Before considering the steering angles,
check that the tyres are correctly inflated, that
the front wheels are not buckled, the hub
bearings are not worn or incorrectly adjusted
and that the steering linkage is in good order,
without slackness or wear at the joints.
2Wheel alignment consists of four factors:
Camber, is the angle at which the road
wheels are set from the vertical when viewed
from the front or rear of the vehicle. Positive
camber is the angle (in degrees) that the wheels
are tilted outwards at the top from the vertical.
Castor, is the angle between the steering
axis and a vertical line when viewed from each
side of the vehicle. Positive castor is indicated
when the steering axis is inclined towards the
rear of the vehicle at its upper end.
Steering axis inclination, is the angle when
viewed from the front or rear of the vehicle
between vertical and an imaginary line drawn
between the upper and lower suspension
strut mountings.
Toe,is the amount by which the distance
between the front inside edges of the
roadwheel rims differs from that between the
rear inside edges.
3If the distance between the front edges is
less than that at the rear, the wheels are said
to toe-in. If the distance between the front
inside edges is greater than that at the rear,
the wheels toe-out.
4Camber and castor are set during
production of the car and are not adjustable.
Any deviation from specification will be due tocollision damage or to gross wear in the
components concerned.
5To check the front wheel alignment, first
make sure that the lengths of both tie-rods are
equal when the steering is in the straight-ahead
position. Measure between the locknut at the
balljoint and the ball cup at the end of the rack
housing by passing a thin rod under the rack of
the gaiter. If adjustment is required, release the
locknut and turn the tie-rod.
6Obtain a tracking gauge. These are
available in various forms from accessory
stores or one can be fabricated from a length
of steel tubing suitably cranked to clear the
sump and bellhousing and having a setscrew
and locknut at one end.
7With the gauge, measure the distance
between the two wheel inner rims (at hub
height) at the rear of the wheel. Push the
vehicle forward to rotate the wheel through
180º (half a turn) and measure the distance
between the wheel inner rims, again at hub
height, at the front of the wheel. This last
measurement should differ from (be less than)
the first by the appropriate toe-in according to
the Specification (see Specifications Section).
8Where the toe-in is found to be incorrect,
release the tie-rod balljoint locknuts and turn
the tie-rods equally. Only turn them a quarter
of a turn at a time before re-checking the
alignment. Viewed from the centre line of the
car, turning the tie-rod clockwise will
decrease the toe-in.
9Make sure that the gaiter outboard clip isreleased otherwise the gaiter will twist as the
tie-rod is rotated.
10Always turn both rods in the same
direction when viewed from the centre line of
the vehicle otherwise the rods will become
unequal in length. This would cause the
steering wheel spoke position to alter and
cause problems on turns with tyre scrubbing.
11On completion, tighten the tie-rod balljoint
locknuts without altering their setting. Check
that the balljoint is at the centre of its arc of
travel and then retighten the gaiter clip.
9 Steering column lock-
removal and refitting
1
1Remove the steering wheel and column
shrouds as described in Section 5, also the
steering column combination switch.
2Unscrew and remove the steering column
mounting bolts and lower the column to
expose the lock shear bolts.
3Drill out the bolts or extract them using an
extractor.
4Refer to Chapter 4 for details of separation
of the ignition switch from the lock section.
5When fitting the new lock, tighten the shear
bolts until their heads break off.
6Bolt up the column, fit the combination
switch, shrouds and steering wheel and
tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
10•4 Steering
Fig. 10.9 Steering column lock shear bolts
(arrowed) (Sec 9)
Fig. 10.8 Front wheel alignment diagram
(Sec 8)
X Front dimension Y - X = Toe-in
Y Rear dimension
Fig. 10.7 Castor angle (Sec 8)
A Vertical line B Castor angle (positive)
Fault finding - steering

adjustment procedures are the same as those
outlined for the previous model units in
Chapter 9, but ensure that the load
compensation lever is turned to the “O”
(normal load setting) position before making
any adjustments.
Headlamp unit removal - later
models
32The removal and refitting procedures
described in Chapter 9 also apply to the later
headlamp type, but note that later units are
secured in position by three retaining screws.
Headlamp dim-dip system -
description
33On later models, the wiring circuit has
been modified to prevent the car being drivenon parking lamps only in built-up areas.
34Headlamp intensity is reduced by the
transformer located at the front of the engine
compartment (photo).
35Any attempt to start the car with parking
lamps only on will automatically cause the
headlamps to switch on with a low-intensity
dipped beam. Dipped and main beam
function normally.
36The headlamp dim-dip system is a legal
requirement for all UK models registered after
April 1st, 1987.
Front fog lamps - bulb/unit
removal and refitting
and beam adjustment
ª
37Ensure that the front fog lamps are
switched off, then unscrew the two retainingscrews and withdraw the lamp unit from the
underside of the front bumper (photos).
38Undo the retaining screw and remove the
access cover from the unit (photo).
39Disconnect the wiring connector from the
bulb, release the clips and withdraw the bulb
from the lamp (photo).
40Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Check the light for satisfactory operation and
if the beam requires resetting, turn the
adjustment screw in the required direction.
41To adjust the beam, position the car 5 m
from, and square on to, a wall or similar.
42Measure the height of the centre of the
lamp lens from the ground and mark the
position on the wall. Switch on the lamp. The
demarcation line (cut-off) of the light should
be below the mark on the wall by 50 mm plus
one-third of the ground-to-lamp centre
measurement. Adjust the beam as required
using the long centre screw.
Horn - relocation
43The single horn, on applicable models, is
now located behind the grille, bolted on a
bracket attached to the top rail (photo).
Steering column combination
switches (later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
44Disconnect the battery negative lead.
45Undo the retaining screws and remove
the steering column shrouds (photos).
46Remove the steering wheel as described
in Chapter 10.
13•106 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
15.45B . . . then remove the upper . . .15.45A Undo the retaining screws . . .15.43 Horn location
15.39 . . . detach the wires, extract the bulb15.38 . . . remove the rear cover . . .
15.37B . . . and withdraw the front fog lamp
unit . . .15.37A Undo the retaining bolts . . .15.34 Headlamp dim-dip transformer

MOT Test ChecksREF•1
This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.
Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same
standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through
the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas
before submitting the vehicle for the test.
Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester
has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such
discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or
friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the
vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may
be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is
scruffy and apparently neglected.
It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,
based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards
are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some
exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes
publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).
An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.
The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:
HandbrakeMTest the operation of the handbrake.
Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates
incorrect brake or cable adjustment.
MCheck that the handbrake cannot be
released by tapping the lever sideways. Check
the security of the lever mountings.
Footbrake
MDepress the brake pedal and check that it
does not creep down to the floor, indicating a
master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait
a few seconds, then depress it again. If the
pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm
resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is
necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is
air in the hydraulic system which must be
removed by bleeding.MCheck that the brake pedal is secure and in
good condition. Check also for signs of fluid
leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which
would indicate failed seals in the brake master
cylinder.
MCheck the servo unit (when applicable) by
operating the brake pedal several times, then
keeping the pedal depressed and starting the
engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will
move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or
the servo itself may be faulty.
Steering wheel and column
MExamine the steering wheel for fractures or
looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.
MMove the steering wheel from side to side
and then up and down. Check that the
steering wheel is not loose on the column,
indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.
Continue moving the steering wheel as before,
but also turn it slightly from left to right.
MCheck that the steering wheel is not loose
on the column, and that there is no abnormalmovement of the steering wheel, indicating
wear in the column support bearings or
couplings.
Windscreen and mirrors
MThe windscreen must be free of cracks or
other significant damage within the driver’s
field of view. (Small stone chips are
acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be
secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S
SEAT2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
ON THE GROUND3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
RAISED AND THE
WHEELS FREE TO
TURN4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S
EXHAUST EMISSION
SYSTEM
REF

Glossary of Technical TermsREF•15
REF
GGapThe distance the spark must travel in
jumping from the centre electrode to the side
electrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the
spacing between the points in a contact
breaker assembly in a conventional points-
type ignition, or to the distance between the
reluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in an
electronic ignition.
GasketAny thin, soft material - usually cork,
cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed
between two metal surfaces to ensure a good
seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket
seals the joint between the block and the
cylinder head.
GaugeAn instrument panel display used to
monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a
movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an
analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical
readout is called a digital gauge.
HHalfshaftA rotating shaft that transmits
power from the final drive unit to a drive
wheel, usually when referring to a live rear
axle.
Harmonic balancerA device designed to
reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the
crankshaft. May be incorporated in the
crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration
damper.
HoneAn abrasive tool for correcting small
irregularities or differences in diameter in an
engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.
Hydraulic tappetA tappet that utilises
hydraulic pressure from the engine’s
lubrication system to maintain zero clearance
(constant contact with both camshaft and
valve stem). Automatically adjusts to variation
in valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also
reduce valve noise.
IIgnition timingThe moment at which the
spark plug fires, usually expressed in the
number of crankshaft degrees before the
piston reaches the top of its stroke.
Inlet manifoldA tube or housing with
passages through which flows the air-fuel
mixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles with
throttle body injection) or air only (port fuel-
injected vehicles) to the port openings in the
cylinder head.
JJump startStarting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weak battery by
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to
a charged or helper battery.
LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV)A
brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
carried by the rear axle.
LocknutA nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position.
LockwasherA form of washer designed to
prevent an attaching nut from working loose.
MMacPherson strutA type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
creates the lower control arm. A long strut - an
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.
MultimeterAn electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
NNOxOxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
OOhmThe unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will
produce a current of one amp.
OhmmeterAn instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-ringA type of sealing ring made of a
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring
is compressed into a groove to provide the
sealing action.
Overhead cam (ohc) engineAn engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).Overhead valve (ohv) engineAn engine with
the valves located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located in the engine block.
Oxygen sensorA device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
PPhillips screwA type of screw head having a
cross instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver.
PlastigageA thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring
clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
journal and bearing.
Propeller shaftThe long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential
on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Proportioning valveA hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
RRack-and-pinion steeringA steering system
with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
wheel opened up and laid flat). When the
steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,
moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
rods to the steering arms at the wheels.
RadiatorA liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
RefrigerantAny substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system.
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance that is considered less harmful to
the ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Rocker armA lever arm that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
Adjusting spark plug gap
Plastigage
Gasket

F
Facia - 12•10, 13•107
Fan -2•3, 13•57, 13•71, 13•84
Fast idle adjustment -3•7, 3•9, 3•10, 3•11,
13•64
Fault finding- REF`•9et seq
Fault finding - braking system -8•9
Fault finding - clutch -5•3
Fault finding - cooling and heating systems
-2•8
Fault finding - driveshafts and hubs -7•6
Fault finding - Econometer -9•12
Fault finding - electrical system -9•14,
REF•9
Fault finding - engine -1•35, 1•36, 2•8,
3•13, 4•9, 13•92, REF•10, REF•11
Fault finding - fuel system -3•9, 3•13,
13•84
Fault finding - ignition system -4•9,
REF•11
Fault finding - Microplex ignition system -
13•92
Fault finding - steering - 10•4
Fault finding - suspension - 11•6
Fault finding - transmission -6•4
Fault finding - turbocharger system - 13•84
Filling - 12•3
Final drive output shafts - 13•94
Fire -0•5
Float adjustment -3•7, 3•8, 3•10, 3•11,
13•64, 13•66
Flywheel -1•19, 1•21, 1•31, 13•46, 13•53
Fog lamps - 13•106
Fuel evaporation control system - 13•78
Fuel filter - 13•67, 13•72, 13•74, 13•79
Fuel gauge fault -9•14
Fuel injection electronic control unit (ECU)
- 13•77
Fuel injection system - 13•68, 13•69
Fuel injection system fault finding - 13•84
Fuel injectors - 13•69, 13•70, 13•71, 13•76,
13•77, 13•81, 13•84
Fuel level transmitter -3•5
Fuel pressure regulator - 13•70
Fuel pump -3•5, 13•61, 13•69, 13•72,
13•76, 13•80, 13•81
Fuel rail - 13•70, 13•81
Fuel system-3•1et seq, 13•60, REF•4
Fuel system fault finding -3•9, 3•13
Fuel tank -3•5, 13•61, 13•72
Fume or gas intoxication -0•5
Fuses -9•5, 13•105
G
Gaiters -7•2, 10•2, 13•98
Gashes in bodywork - 12•2
Gaskets -1•20
Gearbox - SeeTransmission
Gearchange lever -6•2
Gearchange linkage - 13•94, 13•95
Glossary of technical terms- REF•13et seq
Grille - 12•3, 13•113
H
Handbrake -8•8, 8•9, REF•1
Handles - 12•11
HC emissions - REF•4
Headlamp -9•6, 9•7, 13•105, 13•106
Heated tailgate window -9•10
Heater -2•5, 2•6, 13•58, 13•59, 13•108
Heater fault -2•8
Horn -9•6, 13•106
Horn fault -9•14
HT leads - 13•92
Hubs -7•3, 7•4, 11•3
Hydraulic hoses and pipes -8•6
Hydraulic system -8•7
Hydrofluoric acid -0•5
I
Idle speed adjustment -3•7, 13•62, 13•65,
13•68, 13•75, 13•79
Idling fault -1•36, 3•13, 13•84
Ignition coil - 13•86, 13•90, 13•91
Ignition switch -4•8
Ignition system-4•1et seq, 13•85
Ignition system fault finding -4•9, 9•14,
REF•11
Ignition unit - 13•89
Indicators -9•7
Injectors - 13•69, 13•70, 13•71, 13•76,
13•77, 13•81, 13•84
Inlet manifold - 13•70, 13•77, 13•80
Instrument panel -9•8, 13•107
Intercooler - 13•84
Interior lamps -9•5, 9•8
Introduction to the Fiat Uno -0•4
J
Jacking -0•8
Joint mating faces and gaskets - REF•8
Jump starting -0•7
L
Lambda sensor - 13•82
Lamps -9•6, 9•7, 9•8
Leaks -0•9, 1•36, 13•84
LED (light emitter diode) -9•12
Lights fault -9•14
Locknuts,locktabs and washers - REF•8
Locks -9•11, 10•4, 12•4, 12•6, 12•7,
13•109
Loudspeakers -9•11
Lubricants and fluids -0•13
M
Magnetic impulse generator winding -
13•86
Main bearings -1•20, 1•30, 13•52
Maintenance -0•10, 13•18
Manifolds -3•12, 13•70, 13•77, 13•80
Master cylinder -8•5, 13•103, 13•93
Microplex ignition system - 13•86, 13•89Microplex ignition system fault finding -
13•92
Mirrors - 12•11, 13•111, REF•1
Misfire -1•35, 4•9, REF•11
Mixture adjustment -3•7, 13•62, 13•65,
13•68, 13•75, 13•79
MOT test checks- REF•1et seq
Mountings -1•13, 1•27, 13•26, 13•35,
13•49
N
Needle valve - 13•66
Number plate lamp -9•7
O
Oil cooler - 13•36
Oil filter -1•8
Oil level sensor - 13•110, 13•111
Oil pressure fault -1•36, REF•11
Oil pump -1•13, 1•19, 1•22, 1•26, 1•29,
13•24, 13•30, 13•35, 13•46, 13•53
Oil seals -1•20, 13•41, 13•44, 13•45,
13•94, REF•8
Oil,engine -0•6, 0•13, 1•3, 1•4, 1•8
Oil,transmission -0•6, 0•13, 6•1, 13•14,
13•95
Overheating -2•8, 4•9, REF•11
P
Pad wear sensor - 13•110
Pads -8•2, 13•100, 13•101
Parking lamp -9•7
Pedals -5•2, 8•9, 13•92, 13•102
Pinking -1•36, 13•84, REF•11
Pistons -1•12, 1•18, 1•22, 1•26, 1•30,
13•25, 13•26, 13•30, 13•35, 13•47,
13•48, 13•53
Plastic components - 13•111
Points -4•2, 4•3
Poisonous or irritant substances -0•5
Power module - 13•90
Pre-ignition -1•36, 13•84, REF•11
Pressure regulating valve -8•6, 13•102
Pressure sensor - 13•86
R
Radiator -2•3, 12•3, 13•57, 13•113
Radio -9•10, 13•110
Rear lamp cluster -9•7
Regulator (voltage) -9•4
Regulator (window) - 12•7
Relays -9•5, 13•71, 13•105
Repair procedures - REF•8
Respraying - 12•3
Rocker cover - 13•19
Rockers -1•19
Roof rack - 12•11
Routine maintenance -0•10, 13•18
Rust holes in bodywork - 12•2
REF•18Index