1983 FIAT UNO service

Fiat Uno
Service and Repair Manual
Peter G Strasman
Models covered
Fiat Uno 45, 55, 60, 70, 1.1 and 1.4, including Turbo ie and special/limited editions
903 cc, 999 cc, 1108 cc, 1116 cc, 1299 cc, 1301 cc and 1372 cc petrol engines with manual transmissions
Does not Selecta, Fiorino type vans or Diesel engine
(923-320-3Y7)
© Haynes Publishing 1996
A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted
in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including
photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system,
without permission in writing from the copyright holder.
ISBN1 85960 089 1
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,
Somerset BA22 7JJ
Haynes Publishing
Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England
Haynes North America, Inc
861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA
Editions Haynes S.A.
147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris, France
Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB
Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, SverigeABCDE
FGHIJ
KLMNO
PQRST
1 2 3

2 Engine oil and filter
1
1The engine oil level should be checked at
the weekly service (see “Routine
Maintenance”). Preferably check the level
cold, first thing in the morning or if the engine
has been running, allow at least ten minutes
to elapse after switching off to permit the oil to
drain.
2Withdraw the dipstick, wipe it clean on
non-fluffy material, re-insert it and then
withdraw it for the second time (photo).
3The oil level should be between the MIN
and MAX marks. If not, top up with specified
oil to the MAX mark. Pour the oil slowlythrough the filler orifice on the rocker cover.
To raise the oil level from MIN to MAX will
require approximately 1.1 litre (2.0 pints)
(photos).
4At the intervals specified in “Routine
Maintenance” the oil and filter should be
renewed.
5Have the engine at normal operating
temperature, remove the oil filler cap.
6Place a suitable container under the sump
pan. Unscrew and remove the oil drain plug
and allow the oil to drain (photo).
7While the oil is draining, unscrew and
discard the oil filter. To unscrew the filter, a
filter or chain wrench will normally be
required. If such a tool is not available, drive a
long screwdriver through the oil tester casing
and use it as a lever to unscrew the filter
cartridge.
8Smear the rubber sealing ring of the new oil
filter with oil and screw into position using
hand pressure only (photo).
9Refit the drain plug and refill the engine with
the correct quantity and grade of oil.
10Start the engine. It will take two or three
seconds for the oil warning lamp to go out.
This is normal and is due to the time taken for
the new filter to fill with oil.
11Switch off, check for leaks and check the
oil level, topping up if necessary.
3 Crankcase ventilation
system
1
1This system is designed to draw oil fumes
and blow-by gas (which has passed the piston
rings) from the crankcase and draw it into the
intake manifold when it will then be burned
during the normal combustion process.
2Regularly check the security of the system
hoses which run from the rocker cover or
crankcase breather unit (photo).
3Periodically, detach the hoses and clean
them out with paraffin and a brush or rag pull
through.
4Evidence of sludge or emulsified oil within
the hoses or inside the oil filler cap will
indicate that the engine is running too cool
particularly if the car is used mainly for short
journeys where the engine never reaches full
working temperature.
4 Major operations possible
without removing engine
from car
1The following work can be carried out without
the need to remove the engine from the car.
903 cc engine
Valve clearances - checking and adjusting
Timing chain and sprockets - removal and
refitting
1•8 Engine – general
3.2 Crankcase vent hose (1116 cc)Fig. 1.5 Sectional view of oil filter. Bypass
valve arrowed (Sec 2)2.8 Screwing on the oil filter (903 cc)
2.6 Engine sump drain plug
2.3B Topping up engine oil (1116 cc)2.3A Typical dipstick markings2.2 Withdrawing engine oil dipstick
(1116 cc)

light alloy construction and is easily damaged
use a blunt scraper or rotary wire brush to
clean all traces of carbon deposits from the
combustion spaces and the ports. The valve
head stems and valve guides should also be
freed from any carbon deposits. Wash the
combustion spaces and ports down with
paraffin and scrape the cylinder head surface
free of any foreign matter with the side of a
steel rule, or a similar article.
8If the engine is installed in the car, clean the
pistons and the top of the cylinder bores. If
the pistons are still in the block, then it is
essential that great care is taken to ensure
that no carbon gets into the cylinder bores as
this could scratch the cylinder walls or cause
damage to the piston and rings. To ensure
this does not happen, first turn the crankshaft
so that two of the pistons are at the top of
their bores. Stuff rag into the other two bores
or seal them off with paper and masking tape.
The waterways should also be covered with
small pieces of masking tape to prevent
particles of carbon entering the cooling
system and damaging the coolant pump.
9With a blunt scraper carefully scrape away
the carbon from the piston crown, taking care
not to scratch the aluminium. Also scrape
away the carbon from the surrounding lip of
the cylinder wall. When all carbon has been
removed, scrape away the grease which will
now be contaminated with carbon particles,
taking care not to press any into the bores. To
assist prevention of carbon build-up the
piston crown can be polished with a metal
polish. Remove the rags or masking tape from
the other two cylinders and turn the
crankshaft so that the two pistons which were
at the bottom are now at the top. Place rag in
the cylinders which have been decarbonised,
and proceed as just described.
10Examine the head of the valves for pitting
and burning, especially the heads of the
exhaust valves. The valve seatings should be
examined at the same time. If the pitting on
the valve and seat is very slight, the markscan be removed by grinding the seats and
valves together with coarse, and then fine,
valve grinding paste.
11Where bad pitting has occurred to the
valve seats it will be necessary to recut them
and fit new valves. This latter job should be
entrusted to the local agent or engineering
works. In practice it is very seldom that the
seats are so badly worn. Normally it is the
valve that is too badly worn for refitting, and
the owner can easily purchase a new set of
valves and match them to the seats by valve
grinding.
12Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste
on the seat face and apply a suction grinder
tool to the valve head. With a semi-rotary
motion, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting
the valve occasionally to redistribute the
grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the
process with fine carborundum paste, lifting
and turning the valve to redistribute the paste
as before. A light spring placed under the
valve head will greatly ease this operation.
When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey
matt finish is produced, on both valve and
valve seat faces, the grinding operation is
complete. Carefully clean away every trace of
grinding compound, take great care to leave
none in the ports or in the valve guides. Clean
the valve seats with a paraffin soaked rag,
then with a clean rag, and finally, if an air line
is available, blow the valves, valve guides and
valve ports clean.
13Check that all valve springs are intact. If
any one is broken, all should be renewed.
Check the free height of the springs against
new ones. If some springs are not within
specifications, replace them all. Springs suffer
from fatigue and it is a good idea to renew
them even if they look serviceable.
14Check that the oil supply holes in the
rocker arms are clear.
15The cylinder head can be checked for
warping either by placing it on a piece of plate
glass or using a straight-edge and feeler
blades. If there is any doubt or if its block face
is corroded, have it re-faced by your dealer or
motor engineering works.
16Test the valves in their guides for side toside rock. If this is any more than almost
imperceptible, new guides must be fitted.
Again this is a job for your dealer as a special
tool is required to ensure the correct
installation depth and the cylinder head must
be warmed to 80ºC (176ºF) before fitting the
guides.
17Commence reassembly by oiling the stem
of the first valve and pushing it into its guide
which should have been fitted with a new oil
seal (photos).
18Fit the spring seat. Fit the valve spring so
that the closer coils are towards the cylinder
head and then fit the spring retaining cap.
19Compress the valve spring and locate the
split cotters in the valve stem cut-out (photo).
20Gently release the compressor, checking
to see that the collets are not displaced.
21Fit the remaining valves in the same way.
22Tap the end of each valve stem with a
plastic or copper-faced hammer to settle the
components.
23The cylinder head is now ready for
refitting as described in Section 7.
18 Examination and renovation
4
1With the engine stripped down and all parts
thoroughly clean, it is now time to examine
everything for wear. The following items
should be checked and where necessary
renewed or renovated as described in the
following Sections.
Cylinder block and crankcase
2Examine the casting carefully for cracks
especially around the bolt holes and between
cylinders.
3The cylinder bores must be checked for
taper, ovality, scoring and scratching. Start by
examining the top of the cylinder bores. If they
are at all worn, a ridge will be felt on the thrust
side. This ridge marks the limit of piston ring
travel. The owner will have a good indication
of bore wear prior to dismantling by the
quantity of oil consumed and the emission of
blue smoke from the exhaust especially when
the engine is cold.
4An internal micrometer or dial gauge can be
903 cc engine 1•17
17.19 Fitting split collets17.17B Inserting a valve into its guide17.17A Valve stem oil seal
1
Press a little grease into the
gap between the cylinder
walls and the two pistons
which are to be worked on.

outwards, they rotate the cam relative to the
distributor shaft, and so advance the spark.
The weights are held in position by two
springs and it is the tension of the springs
which is largely responsible for correct spark
advancement.
The vacuum advance is controlled by a
diaphragm capsule connected to the
carburettor venturi. The vacuum pressure
varies according to the throttle valve plate
opening and so adjusts the ignition advance
in accordance with the engine requirements.
Digiplex ignition system
This electronic system eliminates the
mechanical contact breaker and centrifugal
advance mechanism of conventional
distributors and uses an electronic control
unit to provide advance values according to
engine speed and load. No provision is made
for adjustment of the ignition timing.
Information relayed to the control unit is
provided by two magnetic sensors which
monitor engine speed and TDC directly from
the engine crankshaft.
A vacuum sensor in the control unit
converts intake manifold vacuum into an
electric signal.
The control unit selects the optimum
advance angle required and a closed
magnetic circuit resin coil guarantees a spark
owing to the low primary winding resistance.
Five hundred and twelve advance values
are stored in the control unit memory to suit
any combination of engine operating
conditions.
No maintenance is required to the
distributor used on this system.
Distributor drive
The mechanical breaker type distributor on
903 cc engines and the Digiplex type
distributor on 903 cc ES engines are mounted
on the cylinder head and driven from a gear
on the camshaft through a shaft which also
drives the oil pump.
The distributor on 1116 cc and 1301 cc
engines is mounted on the crankcase and is
driven from a gear on the auxiliary shaft as is
also the oil pump.
2 Mechanical contact breaker
- points servicing
3
1At the intervals specified in “Routine
Maintenance”, prise down the clips on the
distributor cap and place the cap with high
tension leads to one side.
2Pull off the rotor.
3Remove the spark shield. Mechanical wear
of the contact breaker reduces the gap.
Electrical wear builds up a “pip” of burned
metal on one of the contacts. This
|prevents the gap being measured for
re-adjustment, and also spoils the electric
circuit.
Ducellier type distributor
4To remove the contact breaker movable
arm, extract the clip and take off the washer
from the top of the pivot post.
5Extract the screw and remove the fixed
contact arm.
6Clean the points by rubbing the surfaces on
a fine abrasive such as an oil stone. The point
surface should be shaped to a gentle convex
curve. All the “pip” burned onto one contact
must be removed. It is not necessary to go on
until all traces of the crater have been
removed from the other. There is enough
metal on the contacts to allow this to be done
once. At alternate services, fit new points.
Wash debris off cleaned points and
preservatives off new ones.
7Now the distributor should be lubricated.
This lubrication is important for the correct
mechanical function of the distributor, but
excess lubrication will ruin the electrical
circuits, and give difficult starting.
8Whilst the contact breaker is off, squirt
some engine oil into the bottom part of the
distributor, onto the centrifugal advance
mechanism below the plate.
9Wet with oil the felt pad on the top of the
distributor spindle, normally covered by the
rotor arm.
10Put just a drip of oil on the pivot for the
moving contact.11Smear a little general purpose grease
onto the cam, and the heel of the moving
contact breaker.
12Refit the contact points and then set the
gap in the following way.
13Turn the crankshaft by applying a spanner
to the pulley nut or by jacking up a front
wheel, engaging top gear and turning the
roadwheel in the forward direction of
travel. Keep turning until the plastic
heel of the movable contact arm is on the
high point of a cam lobe on the distributor
shaft.
14Set the points gap by moving the fixed
contact arm until the specified feeler blades
are a sliding fit. Tighten the fixed contact arm
screw.
15Check the contact end of the rotor arm.
Remove any slightly burnt deposits using fine
abrasive paper. Severe erosion will
necessitate renewal of the rotor.
16Wipe out the distributor cap and check for
cracks or eroded contacts (photo). Renew if
evident or if the carbon brush is worn.
17Refit the spark shield, rotor and distributor
cap.
18Setting the contact breaker gap with a
feeler blade must be regarded as a means of
ensuring that the engine will start. For
optimum engine performance, the dwell angle
must be checked and adjusted as described
in Section 3.
Marelli type distributor
19Open the points with a finger nail and
inspect their condition. If they are badly
eroded or burned, then they must be
renewed. The contact points can only be
renewed complete with carrier plate as an
assembly.
20Release the low tension leads from the
terminals on the distributor body (photo).
21Extract the screws which hold the vacuum
advance capsule to the distributor body. Tilt
the capsule and release its link rod from the
contact breaker carrier plate (photo).
22Prise out the E-clip from the breaker
carrier and then withdraw the contact
assembly from the top of the distributor shaft.
Ignition system 4•3
2.21 Extracting vacuum diaphragm unit
screw2.20 Marelli distributor2.16 Interior of distributor cap showing
carbon brush
4

3.4 Removing the caliper unit
1 General description
The braking system is of four wheel
hydraulic type with discs on the front wheels
and drums on the rear.The hydraulic system is of dual-circuit type
and incorporates a pressure regulator valve to
limit pressure to the rear brakes during heavy
braking to prevent rear wheel lock up.
A vacuum servo unit is fitted to some
models.
The handbrake is mechanically operated on
the rear wheels.
2 Maintenance
1
1At the weekly service check, inspect the
fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.
Topping up should only be required at very
infrequent intervals and should only be
necessary owing to the need for extra fluid in
the hydraulic system caused by wear of the
friction material of the disc pads and shoe
linings.
2The need for frequent or regular topping up
will be due to a leak in the system, probably
from a hydraulic cylinder seal or a flexible
hose. Correct the problem immediately.
3Use only clean new fluid for topping up. lt
must be of the specified type and have been
stored in a closed container and not have
been shaken for at least 24 hours (photo).
4At regular intervals, check the hoses and
pipelines for condition. Adjust the handbrake
if the lever travel becomes excessive. Check
the condition and security of the brake servo
vacuum hose. All these operations are
described later in this Chapter.
3 Disc pads-
inspection and renewal
2
1Jack up the front of the car and remove the
roadwheels.
2Extract the spring clips and slide out the
locking blocks (photos).
3On SX versions, carefully disconnect the
wear sensor lead connecting plug.
4Lift the caliper body from the disc and
inspect the thickness of the friction material
on each pad (photo). If it is 1.5 mm (0.06 in) or
less, renew the pads.
5Withdraw the pads and the anti-rattle
springs.
6Brush away any dust and dirt from the
caliper, taking care not to inhale the dust - this
contains asbestos and is thus potentially
injurious to health.
7As the new pads are thicker than the old
ones, the caliper piston must be depressed
8•2 Braking system
3.8A Disc pad and anti-rattle spring
Fig. 8.1 Components of the braking system (LHD shown) (Sec 1)
1 Caliper
2 Hose
3 Master cylinder
4 Fluid reservoir5 Cap and fluid level sensor
6 Vacuum servo unit
7 Rear wheel cylinder8 Pipeline
9 Hose
10 Pressure regulating valve
3.2B Removing a locking block
3.2A Removing a disc pad locking block
clip2.3 Fluid reservoir cap and float for
warning switch

20By connecting a pressurised container to
the master cylinder fluid reservoir, bleeding is
then carried out by simply opening each bleed
screw in turn and allowing the fluid to run out,
rather like turning on a tap, until no air is
visible in the expelled fluid.
21By using this method, the large reserve of
hydraulic fluid provides a safeguard against
air being drawn into the master cylinder
during bleeding which often occurs if the fluid
level in the reservoir is not maintained.
22Pressure bleeding is particularly effective
when bleeding “difficult” systems or when
bleeding the complete system at time of
routine fluid renewal.
All methods
23When bleeding is completed, check and
top up the fluid level in the master cylinder
reservoir.
24Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it
feels at all spongy, air must still be present in
the system and further bleeding is indicated.
Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a
reasonable period of the bleeding operation,
may be due to worn master cylinder seals.
25Discard brake fluid which has been
expelled. lt is almost certain to be
contaminated with moisture, air and dirt
making it unsuitable for further use. Clean
fluid should always be stored in an airtight
container as it absorbs moisture readily
(hygroscopic) which lowers its boiling point
and could affect braking performance under
severe conditions.
13 Vacuum servo unit-
description
A vacuum servo unit is fitted into the brake
hydraulic circuit on 55 and 70 models in series
with the master cylinder, to provide assistance
to the driver when the brake pedal is
depressed. This reduces the effort required by
the driver to operate the brakes under all
braking conditions.
The unit operates by vacuum obtained from
the induction manifold and comprises basically
a booster diaphragm and non-return valve. The
servo unit and hydraulic master cylinder are
connected together so that the servo unit
piston rod acts as the master cylinder pushrod.
The driver’s braking effort is transmitted
through another pushrod to the servo unit
piston and its built-in control system. The servo
unit piston does not fit tightly into the cylinder,
but has a strong diaphragm to keep its edges
in constant contact with the cylinder wall, so
assuring an air tight seal between the two
parts. The forward chamber is held under
vacuum conditions created in the inlet manifold
of the engine and, during periods when the
brake pedal is not in use, the controls open a
passage to the rear chamber so placing it
under vacuum conditions as well. When the
brake pedal is depressed, the vacuum passageto the rear chamber is cut off and the chamber
opened to atmospheric pressure. The
consequent rush of air pushes the servo piston
forward in the vacuum chamber and operates
the main pushrod to the master cylinder.
The controls are designed so that
assistance is given under all conditions and,
when the brakes are not required, vacuum in
the rear chamber is established when the
brake pedal is released. All air from the
atmosphere entering the rear chamber is
passed through a small air filter.
Under normal operating conditions, the
vacuum servo unit is very reliable and does
not require overhaul except at very high
mileages. In this case, it is far better to obtain
a service exchange unit, rather than repair the
original unit.
It is emphasised that the servo unit assists
in reducing the braking effort required at the
foot pedal and in the event of its failure, the
hydraulic braking system is in no way affected
except that the need for higher pressures will
be noticed.
14 Vacuum servo unit-
servicing and testing
1Regularly, check that the vacuum hose
which runs between the servo unit and the
inlet manifold is in good condition and is a
tight fit at both ends.
2If broken or badly clogged, renew the air
filter which is located around the brake pedal
push rod. Access to this is obtained by
disconnecting the pushrod from the
cross-shaft or pedal arm, withdrawing the
pushrod, dust excluding boot and end cap.
3If the new filter is cut diagonally from its
centre hole, future renewal can be carried out
without the need for disconnection of the
pushrod.
4If the efficiency of the servo unit is suspect,
it can be checked out in the following way.
5Run the engine, then switch off the ignition.
Depress the footbrake pedal; the distinctive
in-rush of air into the servo should be clearly
heard. It should be possible to repeat this
operation several times before the vacuum in
the system is exhausted.
6Start the engine and have an assistant
apply the footbrake pedal and hold it down.
Disconnect the vacuuum hose from the servo.
There should not be any in-rush of air into the
servo through the connecting stub. lf there is,
the servo diaphragm is probably faulty. During
this test, expect the engine to idle roughly,
unless the open end of the hose to the inlet
manifold is plugged. Reconnect the hose.
7With the engine off, depress the brake
pedal fully. Start the engine with the brake
pedal still depressed; the pedal should be felt
to go down fractionally.
8If the results of these tests are not
satisfactory, remove the unit and fit a new one
as described in the next Section.
15 Vacuum servo unit-
removal and refitting
3
1Syphon as much fluid as possible out of the
master cylinder reservolr.
2Disconnect electrical leads from the
terminals in the reservoir cap then uncouple
the rigid pipelines from the master cylinder
body. Be prepared to catch leaking fluid and
plug the open ends of the pipelines.
3The master cylinder can be unbolted now
from the servo unit, or detached later when
the complete assembly is withdrawn.
4Working inside the car, disconnect the
servo pushrod from the pedal then remove the
servo mounting nuts.
5Withdraw the servo assembly into the
engine compartment, then remove it to the
bench. lf the master cylinder is still attached,
cover the wings with protective sheeting, in
case brake fluid is spilled during removal.
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
process, but adjust the pushrod clearance as
described in Section 9. On completion of
refitting, bleed the complete hydraulic system
as described in Section 12. Note: Where the
help of an assistant is available, the servo
pushrod need not be disconnected from the
pedal. The rod is a sliding fit in the servo and
the servo can be simply pulled off the rod.
Refitting without having disconnected the rod
from the pedal can be difficult unless the help
of an assistant is available.
16 Handbrake- adjustment
1
Adjustment is normally automatic, by the
movement of the rear brake shoes on their
automatic adjusters.
However, owing to cable stretch,
supplementary adjustment is occasionally
required at the control lever adjuster nut. The
need for this adjustment is usually indicated
by excessive movement of the control lever
when fully applied.
1The rear brakes should be fully applied
when the handbrake control lever has been
pulled over four or five notches.
2If adjustment is required, release the
8•8 Braking system
16.2 Handbrake adjuster nuts

them. Carefully release the fibre optic
filaments (photos).
6A push-button switch can be removed by
compressing its retaining tabs and pushing it
from the panel.
7A rocker switch can be removed if its knob
is pulled off and the switch sections
withdrawn from the panel.
8Reassembly and refitting of both types of
switches are reversals of removal and
dismantling.
14 Tailgate contacts
1
1Contact blocks are used to transmit power
to the heated tailgate window and to the wiper
motor.
2The block on the tailgate or the body may
be released by prising their ends with a
screwdriver (photos).
15 Horns
1
1These are mounted close to the
engine/transmission left-hand mounting
below the radiator.
2Apart from keeping the connecting leads
secure, no maintenance or adjustment is
required.
16 Headlamp bulb- renewal
1
1Open the bonnet and pull off the plug and
the rubber cover from the rear of the
headlamp (photo).
2Prise back the spring bulbholder clips and
withdraw the combined bulb and holder
(photos).
3Refit the new bulb. Avoid fingering it if it is
of halogen type. Should the fingers touch the
bulb, wipe it with a rag soaked in methylated
spirit to remove any residual grease.
4Turn the bulbholder until the pip on its
flange engages in the cut-out in the rim of the
reflector.
5Snap back the spring retaining clips, refit
the rubber cover and reconnect the plug.
17 Headlamp beam- alignment
2
1It is recommended that the headlamp
beams are aligned by your dealer or a service
station having optical setting equipment.
2Where an owner wishes to do the job
himself, proceed in the following way.
3Have the car standing on a level floor with
9•6 Electrical system
Fig. 9.3 Headlamp beam adjustment
screws (Sec 17)
A Vertical B Horizontal
16.2B Headlamp halogen type bulb16.2A Headlamp bulbholder spring
clips
14.2B Body contact block
16.1 Headlamp plug and rubber
cover
14.2A Tailgate contact block13.5B Switch panel fibre optic13.5A Withdrawing switch panel

13•18 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or
12 months (whichever comes first)
m mCheck the tyre pressures and their condition
(including the spare)
m mWhere a pad wear warning light is fitted, check its
operation
m mCheck the front brake disc pads for excessive wear
m mCheck the underbody condition (fuel and brakes
pipes, exhaust system, hoses, bushes and gaiters)
m mCheck the condition and tension of drivebelts
m mCheck the engine idle speed and CO emissions
m mCheck the EGR system (If fitted)
m mCheck fluid levels (coolant, brake fluid and
windscreen washer)
m mRenew spark plugs (1372 cc Turbo models)
m mRenew the engine oil and oil filter (non-Turbo
models)
m mCheck the HT leads and connections
m mCheck the condition of all coolant, fuel and
hydraulic hoses and connections
Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or
24 months (whichever comes first)
In addition to the items listed for 9000 mile (15 000 km) or 12 months
service
m mCheck the rear brake disc pads for wear (where
applicable)
m mCheck/adjust the valve clearances
m mCheck and tighten (if necessary), inlet and exhaust
manifolds
m mCheck the clutch adjustment (cable operated
models)
m mRenew the fuel filter (where applicable)
m mRenew the air cleaner element
m mRenew the spark plugs and check the HT leads
and connections (all models)
m mWhere applicable, have the ignition and injection
systems checked (special equipment needed)
m mRenew coolant
m mRenew brake fluid
Every 28 000 miles (45 000 km) or
36 months (whichever comes first)
In addition to the items listed for 9000 mile (15 000 km) or 12 months
service
m mCheck Lambda (oxygen) sensors operation (special
equipment needed)
m mCheck fuel evaporation system (where fitted)
m mCheck the transmission oil level
m mCheck the condition crankcase ventilation system
Every 37 000 miles (60 000 km) or
48 months (whichever comes first)
In addition to the items listed for 18 000 mile (30 000 km) or
24 months service
m mCheck the condition of the rear brake shoe linings
m mCheck the condition of the timing belt
Every 65 000 miles (105 000 km)
m
mRenew the timing belt
Every 74 500 miles (120 000 km)
m
mRenew the manual transmission oil
Every 250 miles (400 km), weekly or
before a long journey
m mProceed as described for the earlier models at the
start of this manual
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or
12 months (whichever comes first)
m mRenew the engine oil and oil filter (Turbo models
only)
3 Routine maintenance- all models from June 1991
The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work.
These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us, for
vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition
at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more
often. We encourage frequent maintenance, since it enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.
If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or driven
frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more
frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.
When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by an authorised
dealer to preserve the factory warranty.