1983 FIAT UNO key battery

13Engage the timing chain with the teeth of
the crankshaft sprocket. Then locate the
camshaft sprocket within the upper loop of
the chain in such a way that when the
sprocket is pushed onto the camshaft, the
timing marks will be in alignment. Make sure
that the self-tensioning links are on the inside
of the chain against the cylinder block
(photos).
14Place the camshaft sprocket onto the
camshaft so that its positioning dowel
engages.
15Secure the camshaft sprocket by fitting
the special cam, that drives the fuel pump, on
its locating dowel. Fit the camshaft sprocket
retaining bolt (photo).
16Tighten the sprocket bolt to the specified
torque.
17If the timing cover oil seal showed signs of
leaking before engine overhaul the old seal
should be removed and a new one fitted.
18Using a screwdriver, carefully remove the
old oil seal, working from the rear of the cover.
Fit the new seal making sure it is inserted
squarely, and tap home with a hammer.
19Lubricate the oil seal with engine oil.
20With all traces of old gasket and jointing
compound removed from the timing cover
and cylinder block mating faces, smear a little
grease onto the timing cover mating face and
fit a new gasket in position.
21Fit the timing cover to the cylinder block
and finger tighten the securing bolts, and
spring washer. Ensure that the fuel pump
pushrod bush is in place in the cover.22Wipe the hub of the pulley and carefully
place into position on the crankshaft. It should
locate on the Woodruff key. It may be
necessary to adjust the position of the timing
cover slightly in order to centralise the oil seal
relative to the pulley hub.
23Tighten the timing cover securing bolts in
a diagonal and progressive manner.
24Tighten the crankshaft pulley nut to the
specified torque again holding the crankshaft
against rotation as previously described
(paragraph 2) this Section.
25Refit the fuel pump and alternator
drivebelt.
7 Cylinder head-
removal and refitting
3
1For safety reasons, disconnect the battery
negative lead.
2Refer to Chapter 2 and drain the cooling
system.
3Refer to Chapter 3 and remove the
carburettor, air cleaner and spacer block.
4Undo and remove the five nuts and
washers securing the exhaust manifold and
hot air ducting to the cylinder head.
5Detach the cable from the temperature
indicator sender unit.
6Refer to Chapter 4 and disconnect the
distributor LT lead and the coil HT lead.
7Refer to Chapter 2 and remove the
thermostat housing from the cylinder head.
8Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
cylinder head.
9Note the electrical connections to the rear
of the alternator and disconnect them.
10Disconnect the mounting and adjuster link
bolts and remove the alternator from the
engine.
11Unscrew the four nuts securing the rocker
cover to the top of the cylinder head and lift
away the spring washers and metal packing
pieces. Remove the rocker cover and cork
gasket.
12Unscrew the four rocker pedestal
securing nuts in a progressive manner. Lift
away the four nuts and spring washers andease the valve rocker assembly from the
cylinder head studs.
13Remove the pushrods, keeping them in
the relative order in which they were removed.
The easiest way to do this is to push them
through a sheet of thick paper or thin card in
the correct sequence.
14Unscrew the cylinder head securing bolts
half a turn at a time in the reverse order to that
shown in Fig. 1.7; don’t forget the one within
the inlet manifold. When all the bolts are no
longer under tension they may be unscrewed
from the cylinder head one at a time. This will
also release a section of the cooling system
pipe secured by two of the bolts. All the bolts
have washers.
15The cylinder head may now be lifted off. If
the head is jammed, try to rock it to break the
seal. Under no circumstances try to prise it
apart from the cylinder block with a
screwdriver or cold chisel as damage may be
done to the faces of the head or block. If this
or the Hint, fail to work, strike the head
sharply with a plastic headed hammer, or with
a wooden hammer, or with a metal hammer
with an interposed piece of wood to cushion
the blows. Under no circumstances hit the
head directly with a metal hammer as this may
cause the casting to fracture. Several sharp
taps with the hammer, at the same time
pulling upwards, should free the head. Lift the
head off and place on one side.
16The cylinder head may now be de-
carbonised or dismantled, refer to Section 17.
Refitting
17After checking that both the cylinder block
and cylinder head mating surfaces are
perfectly clean, generously lubricate each
cylinder with engine oil.
18Always use a new cylinder head gasket as
the old gasket will be compressed and not
capable of giving a good seal.
1•10 903 cc engine
6.15 Fitting fuel pump drive cam and
sprocket bolt
6.13C Self-tensioning links on inside of
chain6.13B Timing mark alignment6.13A Fitting the sprockets and timing
chain
If the head will not readily
free, turn the crankshaft.
The compression generated
in the cylinders will often
break the gasket joint

this type is used and the engine is in good
condition, the spark plugs should not need
attention between scheduled replacement
intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely
necessary and should not be attempted unless
specialised equipment is available as damage
can easily be caused to the firing ends.
2At the specified intervals, the plugs should
be renewed. The condition of the spark plug
will also tell much about the overall condition
of the engine.
3If the insulator nose of the spark plug is
clean and white, with no deposits, this is
indicative of a weak mixture, or too hot a plug.
(A hot plug transfers heat away from the
electrode slowly - a cold plug transfers it away
quickly.)
4If the tip of the insulator nose is covered
with sooty black deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
5The spark plug gap is of considerable
importance, as, if it is too large or too small
the size of the spark and its efficiency will be
seriously impaired. The spark plug gap should
be set to the gap shown in the Specifications
for the best results.
6To set it, measure the gap with a feeler
gauge, and then bend open, or close, the
outer plug electrode until the correct gap is
achieved. The centre electrode should never
be bent as this may crack the insulation and
cause plug failure, if nothing worse.
7When fitting new plugs, check that the plug
seats in the cylinder head are quite clean.
Refit the leads from the distributor in the
correct firing order, which is 1-3-4-2; No 1cylinder being the one nearest the flywheel
housing (903 cc) or timing belt (1116 or
1301 cc). The distributor cap is marked with
the HT lead numbers to avoid any confusion.
Simply connect the correctly numbered lead
to its respective spark plug terminal (photo).
12 Ignition switch-
removal and refitting
1
1Access to the steering column lock/ignition
switch is obtained after removing the steering
wheel and column shrouds (Chapter 10) and
the column switch unit (Chapter 9).
2In the interest of safety, disconnect the
battery negative lead and the ignition switch
wiring plug (photo).
3Insert the ignition key and turn to the STOP
position (photo).
4Pull the two leads from the switch.
5Turn the ignition key to MAR.
6Using a screwdriver depress the retaining
tabs (1) (Fig. 4.16) and release the ignition
switch.
7Set the switch cam (2) so that the notches
(3) are in alignment.
8Insert the switch into the steering lock and
engage the retaining tabs.
9Turn the ignition key to STOP and connect
the two leads.
10Reconnect the battery and refit the
steering wheel, switch and shrouds.
11Removal and refitting of the steeringcolumn lock is described in Chapter 10.
Note: The ignition key is removable when set
to the STOP position and all electrical circuits
will be off. If the interlock button is pressed,
the key can be turned to the PARK position in
order that the parking lamps can be left on
and the steering lock engaged, but the key
can be withdrawn.
4•8 Ignition system
Fig. 4.16 Typical ignition switch (Sec 12)
1 Retaining tabs 3 Alignment notches
2 Switch cam 4 Locating projection12.3 Ignition key positions
1 AVV (Start) 3 Stop (Lock)
2 Park (Parking lights on) 4 MAR (Ignition)12.2 Ignition switch and lock
11.7 Distributor cap HT lead markingsFig. 4.15 Spark plug connections on
1116 cc and 1301 cc engines (Sec 11)
Fig. 4.14 Spark plug connections on
903 cc engine (Sec 11)
It’s often difficult to insert spark plugs
into their holes without cross-threading
them. To avoid this possibility, fit a
short piece of rubber hose over the end
of the spark plug. The flexible hose
acts as a universal joint, to help align
the plug with the plug hole. Should the
plug begin to cross-thread, the hose
will slip on the spark plug, preventing
thread damage.

3 Alternator-
maintenance and precautions
1
To avoid damage to the alternator, the
following precautions should be observed.
1Disconnect the leads from the battery
before connecting a mains charger to the
battery terminals.
2Never stop the engine by pulling off one of
the battery leads.
3Disconnect the battery if electric welding is
to be carried out on the vehicle.
4If using booster cables from another battery
to start the car, make sure that they are
connected positive to positive and negative to
negative.
5Maintenance consists of keeping the
outside of the alternator clean, the electrical
connections secure and the drivebelt correctly
tensioned, see Chapter 2, Section 8.
4 Alternator-
removal and refitting
1
Note: Depending on the model, access to the
alternator from above may be poor in which
case it will be necessary to work from the
underside of the vehicle, through the
right-hand wheel arch (after removing the
roadwheel and the lower undershield). Refer
to Chapter 13 for details.
1Disconnect the leads from the rear of the
alternator.2Release the mounting and adjuster link nuts
and push the alternator as far as it will go in
towards the engine (photos).
3Slip the drivebelt from the pulley.
4Remove the mounting and adjuster bolts
and lift the alternator from the brackets on the
engine. Remove downwards on 1116 cc and
1301 cc models.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, tension
the drivebelt as described in Chapter 2,
Section 8.
5 Alternator- overhaul
3
1Overhaul of the alternator should be limited
to renewal of the brushes. If the unit has
covered a high mileage, it will be found moreeconomical to exchange it for a new or
factory-reconditioned one, rather than renew
worn components on the original unit.
Brush renewal
(Marelli alternator)
2Unscrew the nuts and take off the rear cover.
3Unscrew the two small bolts and withdraw
the brush holder (photos).
4Fit the new brush holder which is supplied
complete with brushes, by reversing the
removal operations.
Brush renewal
(Bosch alternator)
5Where applicable, remove the radio
suppression condenser (capacitor) from the
rear end frame (one screw and washer, and a
plug-in connection).
6Undo the two screws which retain the brush
holder to the rear frame of the alternator, then
Electrical system 9•3
5.3A Alternator brush holder bolt4.2B Alternator adjuster bolt4.2A Alternator mounting
Fig. 9.1 Exploded view of typical alternator (Sec 5)
1 Pulley
2 Fan
3 Bolts
4 Washers
5 Drive-end bracket
6 Stator windings
7 Plate screw
8 Diode plate
(rectifier pack)9 Body
10 Brush
11 Spring
12 Brush holder
13 Condenser
14 Screws and
washers
15 Screws and
washers16 Screws and
washers
17 Plug socket
18 Suppressor
19 Shaft nut
20 Spring washer
21 Thrust ring
22 Bearing
23 Retainer plate24 Thrust ring
25 Spring washer
26 Screw and washer
27 Key
28 Rotor
29 Bearing
30 Backing washer
31 Shield (where
applicable)
5.3B Removing alternator brush holder
9

ease the holder out of the alternator. Inspect
the brushes and if worn below the specified
minimum length, they must be renewed.
7Disconnect the brush leads by unsoldering
or carefully cutting them.
8When soldering the new brush leads, do
not allow solder to run down them or their
flexibility will be ruined.
9When inspecting or renewing brushes,
check the surface of the slip rings. Clean them
with solvent or if they are very discoloured,
use very fine glasspaper.
6 Voltage regulator
1This is of integral type and is part of the
brushholder assembly.
2No provision is made for adjustment or
overhaul.
7 Starter motor-
description and testing
2
1The starter motor may be one of two
different makes. Both are of pre-engaged
type.
2This type of starter motor incorporates a
solenoid mounted on top of the starter motor
body. When the ignition switch is operated,
the solenoid moves the starter drive pinion,
through the medium of the shift lever, into
engagement with the flywheel starter ring
gear. As the solenoid reaches the end of its
stroke, and with the pinion by now partially
engaged with the flywheel ring gear, the main
fixed and moving contacts close and engage
the starter motor to rotate the engine.
3This pre-engagement of the starter drive
does much to reduce the wear on the flywheel
ring gear associated with inertia type starter
motors.
4If the starter fails, some fault-finding can be
done with it still on the car. Check the ignition
warning light comes on, and does not go out
when the starter is switched on. If it goes out,
the fault is probably in the battery. If it stays
bright, get an assistant to work the switch,whilst listening to the starter. Listen to find out
if the solenoid clicks into position. If it does
not, pull off the solenoid wire, and check it
with a test bulb. If the wire is live when the key
is turned, but the solenoid does not move,
take off the starter and remove it to the bench
for overhaul.
8 Starter motor-
removal and refitting
1
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the lead from the starter motor
(photo).
3Unscrew the fixing bolts and withdraw the
starter motor, downwards on 1116 cc and
1301 cc models (photo).
4Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
9 Starter motor- overhaul
3
1As with the alternator, the operations
should normally be limited to renewal of the
brushes. If the unit has covered a high
mileage it will usually be more economical to
purchase a new or factory-reconditioned one
rather than renew several components of the
original unit.
2Owing to the possibility that a fault can
develop in the starter motor solenoid or drive
assembly, full dismantling procedures are
given later in this Section.
Brush - renewal
3Slide off the cover band.
4Using a hooked piece of wire, pull up the
springs so that the brushes can be withdrawn
and their lengths checked for wear. If they
have worn below the specified minimum
length, renew them by extracting the brush
lead connecting screws (photo).
Solenoid
5Disconnect the field connecting wire from
the solenoid.
6Unscrew the bolts which hold the solenoid
to the end-frame.
7Unscrew the yoke tie-rod nuts.
9•4 Electrical system
9.4 Starter motor brush partly withdrawn
8.2 Starter motor connections8.3 Removing starter motor
Fig. 9.2 Exploded view of typical starter motor (Sec 9)
1 Armature
2 Drive pinion/clutch3 Drive end bracket
4 Shift lever5 Solenoid
6 Brush endplate7 Brush
8 Field windings
Gripping the brush leads with
a pair of pliers to act as a
heat sink will prevent heat
transfer to the internal
components of the alternator.

3The centralised door locking system can
operate independently of the key.
4To gain access to the lock solenoid and
linkage, remove the front door trim panel as
described in Chapter 12.
5Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6Disconnect the electrical wiring plugs from
the solenoid within the door cavity.
7Disconnect the solenoid from the lock lever
by removing the clip.
8Unscrew the two bolts which secure the
solenoid to the door and remove it.
9Renew the solenoid or switch as necessary.
10Refitting is a reversal of removal.
11Refer to Section 10 for details of system
fuses and relays.
33 Economy gauge
(Econometer)
2
1This device is fitted to ES (energy saving)
models and indicates to the driver the fuel
consumption (in litres per 100 km) coupled
with a needle which moves over coloured
sections of a dial to make the driver aware
that his method of driving is either conducive
to high or low fuel consumption. Refer to
Chapter 3, Section 16.
2The device is essentially a vacuum gauge
which also incorporates a warning lamp to
indicate to the driver when a change of gear is
required.
3A fuel cut-out valve (see Chapter 3, Sec-
tion 11) is used in conjunction with the
economy gauge so that when the accelerator
pedal is released during a pre-determined
engine speed range, fuel supply to the engine
is stopped, but resumes when the engine
speed falls below the specified range.
LED (light emitter diode)
4The gearchange indicator will only light up
at engine speeds in excess of 2000 rev/min
for vacuum pressures up to 600 mm Hg in 1st,
2nd and 3rd speed gears and for vacuum
pressures up to 676 mm Hg in 4th speedgear. The light will not come on if 5th speed
gear is engaged or if the coolant temperature
is below 55ºC.
5There is a two second delay in the light
coming on to prevent it operating during rapid
acceleration in a low gear.
6If the LED light comes on during
deceleration it should be ignored.
Fault finding
7A faulty economy gauge should be checked
in the following way.
8Refer to Section 21 and remove the
instrument panel.
9Disconnect the economy gauge L
connector and then connect a test lamp
between the BN cable contact and earth. If
the lamp comes on then the gauge supply
circuit is not open. If the lamp does not come
on, check all connections in the supply cable
which comes from the interconnecting unit of
the electrical system, also Fuse No 12.
10Now connect a voltmeter between the
white cable and earth. Check the voltage with
the engine not running, but the ignition
switched on. It should be between 0.7 and
0.9 volt. If the reading varies considerably
from that specified, check the connections
between the economy gauge and the fuel
cut-out device control unit. If the fault cannot
be rectified, renew the ignition control unit
(Digiplex system, see Chapter 4).
11Now check the closed throttle valve plate
switch by connecting a voltmeter between the
brown and BN cables of the L connector. With
the valve plate open, there should be no
reading, but with it open, voltage should be
indicated.
12Failure to conform as described will be
due to a faulty earth in the switch or a faulty
fuel cut-out device control unit.
13A further test of the throttle valve plate
switch may be carried out by disconnecting
the multi-plug from the fuel cut-out device
control unit.
14Connect a test lamp to contact 4 (positive
battery terminal). The lamp should come on,
when the engine is idling or the accelerator
released. If it does not, renew the throttle
valve plate switch.15Connect a tachometer to the brown/white
cable contact in the L connector and record
the engine speed with the engine running. If
no reading is obtained, renew the Digiplex
ignition control unit which must be faulty.
34 Check control (warning
module) system
2
1This is fitted into the instrument panel of
certain models to provide a means of
checking the operation of many electrical
circuits and other systems in the interest of
safety. Sensors are used where appropriate.
2The following components are not
monitored by the system, but have separate
warning lamps:
Handbrake “on”
Choke in use
Low engine oil pressure
Battery charge indicator
3The multi-functional electronic device
automatically checks the following functions
whether the engine is running or not:
Coolant level
Disc pad wear
Door closure
Engine oil level
Front parking lamps
Rear foglamps
Stop lamps
4The check information is stored by the
system monitor until the engine is started
when the display panel then indicates the
situation by means of the LEDs (light emitter
diodes) and the general lamp.
5If all functions are in order, the green panel
lamp will come on when the ignition key is
turned and will go out after two to three
seconds.
6If some functions are not in order, then the
red panel lamp will come on also the
appropriate LED.
Sensors - checking
7If a fault signal occurs which is
subsequently found to be incorrect, first
check the wiring connections between the
9•12 Electrical system
Fig. 9.15 Check system control panel (Sec 34)
A Parking lamps
B Coolant levelC Engine oil level
D Door closureE Brake fluid level
F Disc pad wearFig. 9.14 Location of control units (Sec 33)
A Digiplex ignition system control unit
B Fuel cut-out valve control unit

Idle speed and mixture
adjustment¢
29Before carrying out any adjustments, the
engine must be at operating temperature, the
fan having cut in at second speed and then
switched off.
30Release the locknut and turn the main idle
speed screw in the throttle valve housing until
the engine idles at the specified speed. This
should be all that is necessary to obtain the
correct idle speed, as the throttle valve plate
base setting is set during production.
However, if wear has taken place, or incorrect
adjustment has been carried out previously,
proceed in the following way.
31Disconnect the intake duct from the
throttle valve housing. Release the locknut on
the base (small) adjusting screw, and turn thescrew until there is a clearance between the
lower edge of the throttle valve plate and the
throat wall of between 0.05 and 0.1 mm
(photos).
32With the engine still at operating
temperature, start the engine, and having
released the locknut, turn the main (large) idle
speed screw fully clockwise to close the
bypass passage.
33Now turn the base (small) screw until the
engine idles at between 700 and 800 rpm.
Tighten the locknut.
34Finally, turn the main (large) adjusting
screw to give an idle speed of between 800
and 900 rpm.
35It is unlikely that the mixture will require
alteration, but if it does, connect an exhaust
gas analyser to the car in accordance with the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
36With the engine at operating temperature,
prise out the tamperproof cap, and turn the
mixture screw, which is located in the airflow
meter, until the CO level is as given in the
Specifications. Turning the screw clockwise
richens the mixture, turning it anti-clockwise
weakens the mixture. Use a close-fitting Allen
key for the adjustment (photo).
Fuel injection system -
electrical testsª
37When carrying out checks to trace a fault
in the system, an ohmmeter should be used
for the following tests.
38Disconnect the multipin connector from
the ECU, and also the one from the system
control relay, and apply the probes of the
ohmmeter in accordance with the following
sequence to check for continuity in thecables. The component wiring plug will of
course be disconnected for the test.
ECU connector Component connector
plug terminal plug terminal
1 1 of ignition coil
2 2 of throttle position
switch
3 3 of throttle position
switch
4 50 of ignition switch
5 Earth
5 5 of airflow meter
7 7 of airflow meter
8 8 of airflow meter
9 9 of airflow meter
9 9 of throttle position
switch
9 18 of supplementary air
valve
9 87 main relay socket
10 10 of coolant temperature
sensor
12 Injector terminals
13 Earth
System control Component connector
relay connector plug terminal
plug terminal
1 1 of ignition coil
15 15 of ignition switch
30 Battery positive
31 Earth
50 50 of ignition switch
87 Injector terminals
87 18 of throttle position
switch
87 9 of ECU multipin socket
87b Fuel pump (fused)
13•68 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.42 ECU and component connector plug terminals - 1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9C)
For colour code see main wiring diagrams
9C.31C Checking throttle valve plate
opening with a feeler blade
9C.36 Using an Allen key to adjust the
mixture (CO level)
9C.31B Idle speed base setting screw (1)
and main adjustment screw (2)9C.31A Disconnecting the throttle valve
housing intake duct9C.27B Removing the air cleaner element

Auxiliary control panel
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
61Disconnect the battery negative lead.
62Insert the flat of a screwdriver under the
trim piece at the end of the auxiliary panel as
shown and prise it free. Repeat the procedure
and remove the trim piece at the other end of
the panel (photo).
63Undo the retaining screws, withdraw the
panel from the facia. Disconnect the wiring
connectors from the panel switches to
remove the panel completely (photo).
64A switch bulb can be renewed by
untwisting the holder and removing the holder
and bulb.
65A switch unit can be removed from the
panel by unscrewing the four retaining screws.66Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the wiring connections
are securely made and check for satisfactory
operation of the switches on completion.
Heater control panel
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
67Disconnect the battery negative lead.
68Pull free the heater/fresh air and blower
control knobs (photo).
69Undo the two retaining screws and
withdraw the control panel from the facia
(photos). Detach the wiring connectors from the
panel illumination lights and remove the panel.
70Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the wiring connections
are securely made and on completion check
that the operation of the controls is satisfactory.
Trip master Á
71This electronic instrument is fitted into the
check panel of 1100SL and 1300SL models
from 1986.
72The device provides information on fuel
consumption, range, speed and elapsed time.
73With the ignition key turned to MAR,
figures are displayed in respect of the last
journey - average fuel consumption, average
speed and elapsed time (up to switching off
the ignition).
74As soon as the engine is started, the
instrument processes the current values to
include fuel consumption, range and the
actual time. 75Fuel consumption is only displayed when
the road speed exceeds 8.0 km/h (5.0 mph).
76The fuel range is only displayed after a
road speed of between 25.0 and 70.0 km/h
(15.0 to 44.0 mph) has been maintained for at
least 90 seconds or at higher speeds for
22 seconds.
77A reset button is provided, also a display
change button (from instant to average or
total values). Should the instrument reading
exceed 99 hours, 59 minutes or 1000 km
(622 miles) depressing the display change
button will display all zeros. Depress button E
to resume normal function.
78Refer to the end of the manual for a wiring
diagram of the check panel, incorporating the
trip master.
Interior roof mounted spotlamp,
switch and/or clock -
removal and refitting
Á
79Disconnect the battery negative lead.
80Prise free the lamp unit from its aperture
in the roof panel using a thin-bladed
screwdriver. The lamp bulb can be inspected
by untwisting the holder and withdrawing it
from the rear of the unit (photos). Extract the
bulb from the holder if it requires renewal.
81To remove the lamp switch from the
panel, reach through the lamp aperture and
press it free from the roof panel (photo).
Detach the wiring connectors.
82To remove the clock, reach through the
lamp aperture and undo the retaining screws
(photo). Withdraw the clock and detach the
wiring connectors.
13•108 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
15.69B . . . and withdraw the heater control
panel15.69A . . . undo the retaining screws
(arrowed)15.68 Remove the control knobs . . .
15.63 . . . and withdraw the auxiliary
control panel
15.62 Prise free the trim covers for access
to retaining screws . . .15.59B . . . and disconnect the
speedometer cable15.59A . . . withdraw the instrument
panel . . .

Wiring diagrams 14•1
14
Component key for wiring diagrams 1 to 29
Note: Not all the items listed will be fitted to all models
No Description
00200 Alternator with built-in regulator
00500 Battery
01001 Starter motor
01202 Rear front electric window motor
01203 Left front electric window motor
01206 Windscreen wiper motor
01207 Rear screen wiper motor
01252 Right front door locking motor
01253 Left front door locking motor
01254 Right rear door locking motor
01255 Left rear door locking motor
01400 Windscreen washer pump
01401 Rear screen washer pump
01420 Electric fuel pump
01500 Engine cooling fan
01502 Injector cooling fan
01504 Ventilation fan
02001 Engine cut-out solenoid on injection pump
02010 Fuel injector
02011 Fuel injector
02012 Fuel injector
02013 Fuel injector
02015 Supplementary air valve
02210 Accelerator pump outlet cut-out solenoid on
carburettor
02215 Supplementary air valve
02400 Ignition coil
02405 Ignition coil with electronic control unit
02490 Static advance ignition control unit
02492 Microplex ignition system control unit
03000 Insufficient engine oil pressure switch
03002 Right front door ajar switch
03003 Left front door ajar switch
03004 Right rear door ajar switch
03005 Left rear door ajar switch
03006 Handbrake ‘on’ warning switch
03007 Brake stop-lamp switch
03008 Reversing light switch
03028 Radiator thermostatic switch
03029 Coolant overheating warning light thermostatic switch
03034 Injector cooling fan thermostatic switch
03035 Accelerator pump outlet cut-out solenoid thermostatic
switch
03036 Radiator thermostatic switch with two operating ranges
03053 Map reading light switch
03059 Foglamps switch
03060 Rear foglamp switch
03110 Heated rear screen switch
03114 Ventilation fan switch
03123 Air pressure switch
03142 Choke warning light switch
03144 Reset switch
03145 Display switch
03305 Right front door open light push button
03306 Left front door open light push button No Description
03319 Horn push button
03500 Ignition switch
03505 Butterfly valve cut-off switch
03506 Throttle position switch
03530 Right front electric window switch
03531 Left front electric window switch
03546 Rear screen wash/wipe switch
03550 Hazard warning lights switch
04010 Steering column switch unit, direction indicators
04022 Steering column switch unit, headlamps, main beam
and dipped, side lights
04032 Steering column switch unit, windscreen wash/wipe
04214 Fuel injection system control relay
04215 Antiskid system failure relay
04225 Radiator fan 2nd speed engagement relay feed
04241 Foglamps relay feed
04260 Electric windows motor relay feed
04283 Antiskid system relay
04291 Horn relay feed
04292 Heated rear screen relay feed
04441 Dim-dip cut-out 04600 Ignition distributor
04700 Coolant temperature sender unit
04701 Electronic injection coolant temperature sender unit
04720 Oil pressure sender unit
05008 Right headlamp, main beam and dipped with side light
05009 Left headlamp, main beam and dipped with side light
05013 Abnormal fuel consumption sensor
05015 Right foglamp
05016 Left foglamp
05410 Right front direction indicator
05411 Left front direction indicator
05412 Right front side direction indicator
05413 Left front side direction indicator
05640 Rear number plate lamp
05690 Right rear light cluster, sidelight, direction indicator,
brake light, rear foglamp
05691 Left rear light cluster; side light, direction indicator,
brake light, rear foglamp
06000 Centre courtesy light
06026 Map reading light
06076 Ideogram fibre optic light
06080 Heater controls light
06084 Instrument panel light
06300 Sidelights warning light
06305 Main beam headlamps warning light
06310 Rear foglamps warning light
06311 Foglamps warning light
06315 Hazard warning lights warning light
06320 Direction indicators warning light
06335 Insufficient brake fluid level warning light
06336 Handbrake ‘on’ warning light
06343 Insufficient engine oil pressure warning light
06344 Insufficient brake fluid level warning light
06345 Fuel reserve warning light
06350 Coolant overheating warning light