1983 FIAT UNO check transmission fluid

Safety First!0•5
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400
0C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

0•10Routine maintenance
Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the
purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy
from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication has been
greatly reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended
to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required
the items either no longer exist or will last forever. This is certainly not
the case; it is essential to carry out regular visual examinations as
comprehensively as possible in order to spot any possible defects at
an early stage before they develop into major and expensive repairs.
For information applicable to later models, see Supplement.
Every 250 miles (400 km), weekly,
or before a long journey
m mCheck engine oil level
m mCheck brake reservoir fluid level
m mCheck tyre pressures
m mCheck operation of all lights and horn
m mTop up washer fluid reservoirs, adding a screen
wash, and check operation of washers and wipers
m mCheck coolant level
m mCheck battery electrolyte level
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km)
or six months, whichever comes first
m mRenew engine oil and filter (Chapter 1, Section 2)
m mCheck drivebelt tension (Chapter 2, Section 8)
m mCheck carburettor idle speed and mixture
adjustments (Chapter 3)
m mCheck contact points and dwell angle (mechanical
breaker distributors) (Chapter 4, Section 3)
m mCheck tyre tread wear (Chapter 7, Section 7)
m mCheck disc pads for wear (Chapter 8, Section 3)
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km)
or three years, whichever comes first
m mRenew the timing belt - 1116 and 1299/1301 cc
(Chapter 1, Section 28)
m mCheck exhaust system for corrosion (Chapter 3,
Section 19)
m mRenew contact breaker points and adjust dwell
angle (mechanical breaker distributors) (Chapter 4,
Section 3)
m mCheck and adjust ignition timing (Chapter 4,
Section 4)
m mRenew spark plugs (Chapter 4, Section 11)
m mCheck clutch adjustment (Chapter 5, Section 2)
m mCheck transmission oil level (Chapter 6, Section 2)
m mCheck driveshaft and steering rack gaiters for splits
(Chapters 7 and 10)
m mCheck rear brake shoe linings for wear (Chapter 8,
Section 4)
m mCheck handbrake travel (Chapter 8, Section 16)
m mCheck headlamp beam alignment (Chapter 9,
Section 17)
m mCheck balljoints for wear (Chapter 10, Section 2)
m mCheck front wheel alignment (Chapter 10, Section 8)
m mCheck suspension bushes for wear (Chapter 11,
Section 2)
m mCheck seat belts for fraying (Chapter 12, Section 23)
m mLubricate controls, hinges and locks
Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km)
or two years, whichever comes first
m mRenew coolant anti-freeze mixture (Chapter 2,
Section 3)
m mRenew transmission oil (Chapter 6, Section 2)
m mRenew brake hydraulic fluid (Chapter 8, Section 12)
m mCheck for underbody corrosion and clean out door
and sill drain holes (Chapter 12, Section 2)
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months, whichever comes first
m mCheck and adjust valve clearances (Chapter 1,
Sections 5 and 26)
m mRenew air cleaner element (Chapter 3, Section 2)

13•18 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or
12 months (whichever comes first)
m mCheck the tyre pressures and their condition
(including the spare)
m mWhere a pad wear warning light is fitted, check its
operation
m mCheck the front brake disc pads for excessive wear
m mCheck the underbody condition (fuel and brakes
pipes, exhaust system, hoses, bushes and gaiters)
m mCheck the condition and tension of drivebelts
m mCheck the engine idle speed and CO emissions
m mCheck the EGR system (If fitted)
m mCheck fluid levels (coolant, brake fluid and
windscreen washer)
m mRenew spark plugs (1372 cc Turbo models)
m mRenew the engine oil and oil filter (non-Turbo
models)
m mCheck the HT leads and connections
m mCheck the condition of all coolant, fuel and
hydraulic hoses and connections
Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or
24 months (whichever comes first)
In addition to the items listed for 9000 mile (15 000 km) or 12 months
service
m mCheck the rear brake disc pads for wear (where
applicable)
m mCheck/adjust the valve clearances
m mCheck and tighten (if necessary), inlet and exhaust
manifolds
m mCheck the clutch adjustment (cable operated
models)
m mRenew the fuel filter (where applicable)
m mRenew the air cleaner element
m mRenew the spark plugs and check the HT leads
and connections (all models)
m mWhere applicable, have the ignition and injection
systems checked (special equipment needed)
m mRenew coolant
m mRenew brake fluid
Every 28 000 miles (45 000 km) or
36 months (whichever comes first)
In addition to the items listed for 9000 mile (15 000 km) or 12 months
service
m mCheck Lambda (oxygen) sensors operation (special
equipment needed)
m mCheck fuel evaporation system (where fitted)
m mCheck the transmission oil level
m mCheck the condition crankcase ventilation system
Every 37 000 miles (60 000 km) or
48 months (whichever comes first)
In addition to the items listed for 18 000 mile (30 000 km) or
24 months service
m mCheck the condition of the rear brake shoe linings
m mCheck the condition of the timing belt
Every 65 000 miles (105 000 km)
m
mRenew the timing belt
Every 74 500 miles (120 000 km)
m
mRenew the manual transmission oil
Every 250 miles (400 km), weekly or
before a long journey
m mProceed as described for the earlier models at the
start of this manual
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or
12 months (whichever comes first)
m mRenew the engine oil and oil filter (Turbo models
only)
3 Routine maintenance- all models from June 1991
The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work.
These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us, for
vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition
at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more
often. We encourage frequent maintenance, since it enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.
If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or driven
frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more
frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.
When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by an authorised
dealer to preserve the factory warranty.

mounted in-line with and just forward of the
clutch pedal. The operating cylinder is
mounted within a housing on top of the
transmission. The fluid reservoir is located in
the engine compartment and is mounted on
the left-hand side near the bulkhead. No
settings or specific procedures are given by
the manufacturer at the time of writing.
Maintenance
(hydraulic clutch)Á
7Periodically check the fluid level in the
reservoir. If the level has dropped, top it up
with the specified fluid. The fluid level must
not be allowed to drop below the MIN level
mark on the side of the reservoir (photos). If
the fluid level drops by a significant amount, it
is indicative of a leak in the hydraulic circuit
and this must therefore be traced and
repaired at the earliest opportunity.
8Inspect the fluid lines and connections for
security and any signs of leaks.
Clutch master cylinder -
removal, overhaul
and refitting
#
9If the cylinder is to be dismantled, it will first
be necessary to obtain a cylinder repair kit.
Start by detaching and removing the trim
panel from the underside of the facia on the
driver’s side.
10Place a suitable covering over the floor
carpet to prevent staining in the event of fluid
spillage. Clamp the fluid supply hose at the
master cylinder end, then unscrew the
retaining clip and detach the hose from the
cylinder. Position the hose out of the way and
with its end pointing up.
11Detach the operating rod clevis from the
brake pedal.
12Unscrew and detach the hydraulic pipe to
the operating cylinder from the master
cylinder (photo).
13Undo the two retaining nuts and withdraw
the master cylinder.
14To dismantle the cylinder, prise free and
pull back the dust boot, extract the retainer
and withdraw the operating rod.
15Invert the cylinder and shake free the
piston and seal assembly. If it is stuck inside
the cylinder, apply moderate air pressure
(from a foot pump) into the tail end and catchthe assembly in a clean cloth as it is ejected.
16Remove the seals noting their orientation.
Clean all components in methylated spirits or
new hydraulic fluid. If the cylinder is damaged,
scored or badly worn it must be renewed. The
seals must always be renewed once they are
removed.
17Assemble the new seals to the piston and
lubricate the cylinder, seals and piston
assembly with new hydraulic fluid (of the
specified type) before assembling them.
Ensure that the seals are fitted the correct
way round (as noted during removal).
18Renew the dust boot, fit and secure the
operating rod into position with the retainer,
then refit the dust boot over the cylinder.
19If the intake pipe connector was removed,
this must be refitted using a new seal.
20Refit the cylinder in the reverse order of
removal. Connect and hand tighten the
hydraulic pipe to the operating cylinder before
fully tightening the cylinder securing nuts. The
hydraulic pipe can then be fully tightened.21Reconnect the fluid supply hose to the
cylinder and tighten the retaining clip to
secure. Release the clamp.
22Top up the clutch fluid level in the
reservoir then bleed the system as described
later in this Section.
Clutch operating cylinder -
removal, overhaul
and refitting
¢
23If the cylinder is to be dismantled once it
is removed, it will first be necessary to obtain
a cylinder repair kit. Access is much improved
by first detaching the appropriate ducts and
hoses from the areas directly above the
cylinder, on top of the transmission/clutch
housing.
24To avoid excessive fluid loss when the
hydraulic line is detached from the operating
cylinder, remove the filler cap from the
reservoir, place a clean piece of polythene
sheet over the filler neck and refit the reservoir
cap.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•93
Fig. 13.88 Exploded view of the hydraulic clutch components (Sec 11)
1 Filler cap
2 Fluid reservoir
3 Hose
4 Master cylinder5 Cover
6 Clip
7 Bracket
8 Hose9 Operating cylinder
10 Bracket
11 Circlip
12 Operating lever
11.12 Clutch master cylinder and hydraulic
pipe connections11.7B Topping up the fluid level in the
clutch fluid reservoir11.7A Clutch hydraulic fluid reservoir
showing MIN and MAX markings
13

Door closure sensor
117The sensor consists of a microswitch
within the lock. The switch actuates the
warning lamp according to whether the lock is
in the open or closed mode.
Check control system sensors -
testing
Brake fluid level sensor
118With the fluid level correct, switch on the
ignition and depress the centre of the
reservoir cap. If the sensor switches are
working correctly, then “FAULT” should be
indicated on the check panel.
Coolant level sensor
119With the coolant level in the expansion
tank correct, switch on the ignition and then
pull the wiring plug from the sensor. “FAULT”
should be indicated on the check panel. If it is
not, then it is the panel which is faulty.
120An ohmmeter should be used to check
for continuity, holding the float in both the full
and low level positions.
Engine oil level sensor
121With the oil level correct, disconnect the
wiring plug from the dipstick, and then bridge
the plug terminals (not dipstick side) with a 12
ohm resistor. Switch on the ignition.
122If the red light on the check panel goes
out, then the fault is due to the sensor.
123If the light stays on, then it is the check
panel module which is faulty.
Door closure sensor
124Any fault in the lock microswitch can best
be detected using an ohmmeter.
16 Suspension
Front anti-roll bar -
removal and refittingª
1A front anti-roll bar is fitted to the 1301 cc,
1372 cc ie and 1372 cc Turbo ie engined
models. Removal of the bar on all models isas follows. Firstly loosen off the front
roadwheel bolts, then raise the front of the
car, securely support it on axle stands and
remove the front roadwheels.
2Disconnect the two gearchange rods from
the transmission.
3Unbolt and disconnect the anti-roll bar
insulating clamps from the floorpan (photo).
4Unbolt the end links from the track control
arms and withdraw the anti-roll bar (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but only
tighten the nuts and bolts to the specified
torque with the car parked on level ground,
with four passengers and 40 kg of luggage
inside.
Suspension strut - later models
6The suspension strut upper mounting nuts
on later models also secure the brackets for
the mounting of ancillary components such as
the fuel filter, fuel system relays and fuses,
etc. (depending on model).
7When removing the suspension strut units,
it will therefore be necessary to detach and
support these brackets and their fittings
(photo).
17 Bodywork
Plastic components
1With the use of more and more plastic
body components by the vehicle
manufacturers (e.g. bumpers, spoilers, and in
some cases major body panels), rectification
of more serious damage to such items has
become a matter of either entrusting repair
work to a specialist in this field, or renewing
complete components. Repair of such
damage by the DIY owner is not really
feasible owing to the cost of the equipment
and materials required for effecting such
repairs. The basic technique involves making
a groove along the line of the crack in the
plastic using a rotary burr in a power drill. The
damaged part is then welded back togetherby using a hot air gun to heat up and fuse a
plastic filler rod into the groove. Any excess
plastic is then removed and the area rubbed
down to a smooth finish. It is important that a
filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as
body components can be made of a variety
of different types (e.g. polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene). Damage of a less serious
nature (abrasions, minor cracks, etc.) can be
repaired by the DIY owner using a two-part
epoxy filler repair material. Once mixed in
equal proportions, this is used in similar
fashion to the bodywork filler used on metal
panels. The filler is usually cured in twenty to
thirty minutes, ready for sanding and
painting.
2If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for
finishing which is compatible with the type of
plastic used. At one time the use of a
universal paint was not possible owing to the
complex range of plastics encountered in
body component applications. Standard
paints, generally speaking, will not bond to
plastic or rubber satisfactorily. However, it is
now possible to obtain a plastic body parts
finishing kit which consists of a pre-primer
treatment, a primer and coloured top coat.
Full instructions are normally supplied with a
kit, but basically the method of use is to first
apply the pre-primer to the component
concerned and allow it to dry for up to
30 minutes. Then the primer is applied and
left to dry for about an hour before finally
applying the special coloured top coat. The
result is a correctly coloured component
where the paint will flex with the plastic or
rubber, a property that standard paint does
not normally possess.
Rear view mirrors Á
Interior
3The mirror is of safety type, “breaking” off
its ball fixing upon impact from a front seat
occupant.
4To remove the mirror, grip the head and
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•111
16.7 Suspension strut upper mounting
nuts, showing bracket and cable clip on
the 1372 cc ie model16.4 Anti-roll bar fixing nuts (arrowed)16.3 Anti-roll bar clamp
13

F
Facia - 12•10, 13•107
Fan -2•3, 13•57, 13•71, 13•84
Fast idle adjustment -3•7, 3•9, 3•10, 3•11,
13•64
Fault finding- REF`•9et seq
Fault finding - braking system -8•9
Fault finding - clutch -5•3
Fault finding - cooling and heating systems
-2•8
Fault finding - driveshafts and hubs -7•6
Fault finding - Econometer -9•12
Fault finding - electrical system -9•14,
REF•9
Fault finding - engine -1•35, 1•36, 2•8,
3•13, 4•9, 13•92, REF•10, REF•11
Fault finding - fuel system -3•9, 3•13,
13•84
Fault finding - ignition system -4•9,
REF•11
Fault finding - Microplex ignition system -
13•92
Fault finding - steering - 10•4
Fault finding - suspension - 11•6
Fault finding - transmission -6•4
Fault finding - turbocharger system - 13•84
Filling - 12•3
Final drive output shafts - 13•94
Fire -0•5
Float adjustment -3•7, 3•8, 3•10, 3•11,
13•64, 13•66
Flywheel -1•19, 1•21, 1•31, 13•46, 13•53
Fog lamps - 13•106
Fuel evaporation control system - 13•78
Fuel filter - 13•67, 13•72, 13•74, 13•79
Fuel gauge fault -9•14
Fuel injection electronic control unit (ECU)
- 13•77
Fuel injection system - 13•68, 13•69
Fuel injection system fault finding - 13•84
Fuel injectors - 13•69, 13•70, 13•71, 13•76,
13•77, 13•81, 13•84
Fuel level transmitter -3•5
Fuel pressure regulator - 13•70
Fuel pump -3•5, 13•61, 13•69, 13•72,
13•76, 13•80, 13•81
Fuel rail - 13•70, 13•81
Fuel system-3•1et seq, 13•60, REF•4
Fuel system fault finding -3•9, 3•13
Fuel tank -3•5, 13•61, 13•72
Fume or gas intoxication -0•5
Fuses -9•5, 13•105
G
Gaiters -7•2, 10•2, 13•98
Gashes in bodywork - 12•2
Gaskets -1•20
Gearbox - SeeTransmission
Gearchange lever -6•2
Gearchange linkage - 13•94, 13•95
Glossary of technical terms- REF•13et seq
Grille - 12•3, 13•113
H
Handbrake -8•8, 8•9, REF•1
Handles - 12•11
HC emissions - REF•4
Headlamp -9•6, 9•7, 13•105, 13•106
Heated tailgate window -9•10
Heater -2•5, 2•6, 13•58, 13•59, 13•108
Heater fault -2•8
Horn -9•6, 13•106
Horn fault -9•14
HT leads - 13•92
Hubs -7•3, 7•4, 11•3
Hydraulic hoses and pipes -8•6
Hydraulic system -8•7
Hydrofluoric acid -0•5
I
Idle speed adjustment -3•7, 13•62, 13•65,
13•68, 13•75, 13•79
Idling fault -1•36, 3•13, 13•84
Ignition coil - 13•86, 13•90, 13•91
Ignition switch -4•8
Ignition system-4•1et seq, 13•85
Ignition system fault finding -4•9, 9•14,
REF•11
Ignition unit - 13•89
Indicators -9•7
Injectors - 13•69, 13•70, 13•71, 13•76,
13•77, 13•81, 13•84
Inlet manifold - 13•70, 13•77, 13•80
Instrument panel -9•8, 13•107
Intercooler - 13•84
Interior lamps -9•5, 9•8
Introduction to the Fiat Uno -0•4
J
Jacking -0•8
Joint mating faces and gaskets - REF•8
Jump starting -0•7
L
Lambda sensor - 13•82
Lamps -9•6, 9•7, 9•8
Leaks -0•9, 1•36, 13•84
LED (light emitter diode) -9•12
Lights fault -9•14
Locknuts,locktabs and washers - REF•8
Locks -9•11, 10•4, 12•4, 12•6, 12•7,
13•109
Loudspeakers -9•11
Lubricants and fluids -0•13
M
Magnetic impulse generator winding -
13•86
Main bearings -1•20, 1•30, 13•52
Maintenance -0•10, 13•18
Manifolds -3•12, 13•70, 13•77, 13•80
Master cylinder -8•5, 13•103, 13•93
Microplex ignition system - 13•86, 13•89Microplex ignition system fault finding -
13•92
Mirrors - 12•11, 13•111, REF•1
Misfire -1•35, 4•9, REF•11
Mixture adjustment -3•7, 13•62, 13•65,
13•68, 13•75, 13•79
MOT test checks- REF•1et seq
Mountings -1•13, 1•27, 13•26, 13•35,
13•49
N
Needle valve - 13•66
Number plate lamp -9•7
O
Oil cooler - 13•36
Oil filter -1•8
Oil level sensor - 13•110, 13•111
Oil pressure fault -1•36, REF•11
Oil pump -1•13, 1•19, 1•22, 1•26, 1•29,
13•24, 13•30, 13•35, 13•46, 13•53
Oil seals -1•20, 13•41, 13•44, 13•45,
13•94, REF•8
Oil,engine -0•6, 0•13, 1•3, 1•4, 1•8
Oil,transmission -0•6, 0•13, 6•1, 13•14,
13•95
Overheating -2•8, 4•9, REF•11
P
Pad wear sensor - 13•110
Pads -8•2, 13•100, 13•101
Parking lamp -9•7
Pedals -5•2, 8•9, 13•92, 13•102
Pinking -1•36, 13•84, REF•11
Pistons -1•12, 1•18, 1•22, 1•26, 1•30,
13•25, 13•26, 13•30, 13•35, 13•47,
13•48, 13•53
Plastic components - 13•111
Points -4•2, 4•3
Poisonous or irritant substances -0•5
Power module - 13•90
Pre-ignition -1•36, 13•84, REF•11
Pressure regulating valve -8•6, 13•102
Pressure sensor - 13•86
R
Radiator -2•3, 12•3, 13•57, 13•113
Radio -9•10, 13•110
Rear lamp cluster -9•7
Regulator (voltage) -9•4
Regulator (window) - 12•7
Relays -9•5, 13•71, 13•105
Repair procedures - REF•8
Respraying - 12•3
Rocker cover - 13•19
Rockers -1•19
Roof rack - 12•11
Routine maintenance -0•10, 13•18
Rust holes in bodywork - 12•2
REF•18Index